Proper Expectations and Applications

Not seal -Sealer - Seal-E-R!

Not seal -Sealer – Seal-E-R!

In Tile and Stone Sealers Part 1 I explained how sealers work. If you haven’t yet read that please do so. It will give you a base understanding of how they get into your tile and what they protect against. It will help you understand what you’re looking for and also help decode some of the terms you may find here.

When choosing a sealer the first decision you should make is what you are trying to protect against. Silicone-based sealers protect against water-based stains – coffee, tea, beer Pepsi, stuff like that. Fluoropolymer-based sealers protect against oil-based stains – cooking oil, body oil, shampoo, stuff like that.

Easy enough so far?

One thing to keep in mind is Fluoropolymer sealers will protect against water-based stains to an extent but silicone sealers will not protect against oil-based staining. So you get both types of protection with fluoropolymers, but only water-based protection with silicones. 95% of my residential installations receive fluoropolyer-based sealer.

Although these different sealers will protect against different types of stains there is one thing that they will not protect against – etching. Etching is caused by an acid eating away at the molecular surface of your calcium-based stone. It is caused by things like lemons. Throwing lemon slices onto your marble countertop will etch away the surface of the marble – sealed or not. So there is nothing you can use to prevent etching from acids short of simply taking care not to get any types of acid on your tile.

Okay, time for a little reality check – send away the squeamish! One of the main sources of acid which will ruin any type of calcium-based natural stone is from your pet. You know, the dog that bursts into flames when you don’t properly waterproof your shower? (If you don’t know – you should read my blog more often – just sayin’…) Urine contains Uric acid. Uric acid will etch stone (and grout) and slowly eat away the surface of the stone. This is only on the molecular level, but continued etching will eventually become a macro problem. If you have pets and continue to have a mysterious problem with the surface of your stone in certain areas – that may be the cause. Sealer will not stop this.

Strangely enough this problem may show up around your toilet or on your shower floor. This normally happens when you have males in the house between the ages of five and ninety-five. We don’t aim well – unfortunately sealer will not solve this problem either.

In part one I also discussed the different types of carriers in sealers. The carrier is the vehicle which drives the sealer into the pores of the tile then dissipates. Once the carrier dissipates the sealer is left behind. This is how the sealer cures. The two base types are water and solvent. Solvent carrier-based sealers are better for tile and stone with smaller pores.

To determine which type would be best for your stone you can splash some water onto the surface of your (unsealed) tile. If the water is absorbed quickly then a water-based sealer should work fine for your installation. Stones like travertine, limestone, unpolished marble, unglazed ceramic and all cementitious grouts are suitable for water-based sealers.

Solvent-based sealers are best for tile and stone with smaller pores such as granite, polished marble and other polished stones, glazed ceramic and porcelains. Solvent-based sealers work on porous materials as well as materials with smaller pores!

You may have noticed the word porcelain up there. Yes, porcelains. While porcelain tile is less porous than ceramic (it will absorb less than 0.5% by weight) it still has pores in it. The pores in porcelain, however, are not simply test-tube shaped pits in the surface, they are shaped like little pyramids. They are very tiny at the top and get larger down into the body of the tile, beneath the glaze. It will only absorb that percentage of water, but oil-based substances have smaller molecular structures and will get into the porcelain more easily. So porcelain will still benefit from sealer, although it’s not normally necessary in a residential setting.

Nearly every tile product will benefit to some degree with a good sealer, provided the proper one is used. For the greater part of my time as a tile contractor I have used Miracle Sealant’s products. There are, however, a great many very good sealers available. DuPont and StoneTech are two brands that I’ve used, and still use periodically.

Sealer is another product where you will get what you pay for. So if you choose to seal your tile or stone you need to spend the extra money for a good one! Cheaper sealers, for instance, may not be UV stable (UV transparent), which means they may get a yellow tint to them over time.  Seriously, spend the money for the good stuff.

The Good Stuff

As I stated I like Miracle Sealant’s sealers. Here are the ones I use based on what I’m sealing.

My go to sealer is Miracle Sealant’s 511 Impregnator. It is a fluoropolymer-based (polymerized silicone) impregnating sealer (solvent carrier) which works well for most any application.

If you have an extremely porous stone, like tumbled travertine, I prefer the 511 Porous Plus.

If you need or prefer a water-based sealer you want the 511 H2O Plus.

If you want to enhance your stone installation so it has a deeper, richer color (like when it’s wet – but not as ‘shiny’) you want the Seal & Enhance.

They also have basic grout sealer and a few other types of specialty sealers. Most really good sealer companies carry a sealer with comparable abilities, just call the company’s tech support line and tell them what you’re looking for. They’ll know what you’re talking about – and now you do too!

When sealing your tile installation put some thought into it, figure out what you really need and what benefits you are looking for and decide on one with realistic expectations. They are not a magic product, there is a LOT of research behind tile and stone sealers and they have specific benefits based on specific needs. As long as you know what to expect and choose the proper product for your application a good sealer will make your maintenance chores much easier.

They DO NOT, nor are they designed to, waterproof your installation! They do not waterproof your tile and stone. They are not an acceptable fix or magic cure for improper or non-existent waterproof substrates for your shower or other wet areas. They will, however, prevent cherry Kool-Aid from ruining your marble countertop – as long as you clean it up quickly enough. They will help keep nasty stuff from staining your beautiful tile and stone.

And who doesn’t want that?

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  • James

    Roger,

    I learned about your site too late. I have already finished a shower using
    porcelien and stone tile with spectralock grout.Is it OK to use 511 Impregnator over everything or will it cause a problem with the epoxy grout.
    Thanks for your advice.
    James

    • Roger

      Hi James,

      You can still use it, it won’t hurt anything.

  • ella

    how to take of traventine floor on a regular basic and we have 2 dogs pls let us know how to clean the traventine tile

    • Roger

      Hi Ella,

      The main thing you want to do is seal the tile, that will be the determining factor in how easy it will be to clean your stone. I prefer miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator pro on travertine, but any really good stone sealer will work. After you do that regular cleaning with a neutral ph stone cleaner will work just fine.

      Sorry for the delayed response, my spam filter went ape shit last week for some reason, I just found your comment in the spam folder, I hope the answer found you in time.

  • Pamela

    Roger,

    I just installed river rock floor as my shower floor. I didnt know I was supposed to seal prior to grouting :( What should I do?

    Pamela

    • Roger

      Hi Pamela,

      It isn’t required, it just makes it easier to clean up. You can seal after you grout.

  • kathy

    Roger,

    After reading your Tile and Stone Sealers articles, I ordered 511 Impregnator to seal my newly installed shower floor and walls. Laticrete sanded grout and large porcelain tiles. Later, I was reading the information on Mapei AquaDefense, which was used as my waterproofing membrane. It says do not allow contact with solvent based materials. Should I switch to a water based sealer for my shower, and use the 511 on my floor tiles before installation? If so, any suggestions on the brand to use. And, would I just seal the grout then, and not the tiles?

    Also, I am using ECO surfacing by Cosentino for my countertops. Do I seal this material also?

    Thanks for all the great info!
    Kathy

    • Roger

      Hi Kathy,

      You can use the 511. They are talking about direct contact (don’t seal your AD). It won’t hurt anything using it over your tile. Yes, you should seal the ECO as well, it certainly won’t hurt.

  • Chris

    I hate to ask as I feel you have probably answered already. I am confused on order of sealing and grouting.
    Installing honed Carrera marble for shower and floor.
    1. install tile
    2. use epoxy grout
    3. seal with 511

    or do I seal first then grout? THANK YOU>

    • Roger

      Hi Chris,

      1. install tile
      2. seal with 511
      3. epoxy grout.

      • GWR64

        Interesting.
        I would have thought Chris was right.
        Don’t you have to seal the grout also?? Is it the same 511 used to do the grout?
        I’m in the process of doing my 3rd bathroom. :rockon: (shower stall w/acrylic pan 36×36, pedestal sink and toilet)
        Oh!! I just rembered. I want to put a built in shampoo and soap holder somewhere. Any advice about what company makes a GOOD one? I’ve been looking for a while. I have ordered two and when they came they seemed…..flimsy. I want to make it look really nice an d fancy. One problem is I am afraid they will leak after i tile them. The other problem is…..what kind of tile glue do you use on one of these?

        PS: You write the way I would. Never boring. (except for FLUROPOLYER)

        • Roger

          No, you don’t have to seal epoxy grout – that’s why you use epoxy grout. If you use regular cementitious grout then yes, seal it with 511 as well.

          I don’t use premade niches. Read through this: Building a shower niche. Properly waterproofed they will not leak (my method), the premade ones are already waterproof. Some you need to use epoxy, some use regular thinset, it depends on the brand.

  • Bruce

    I installed a polished marble mosaic backsplash, then water-based impregnator over the non grouted surface. How long do I have to wait before I can grout?
    Thanks love your site

    • Roger

      Hi Bruce,

      You can grout in about eight hours normally.

  • Laurie

    Hi Roger,

    We finally finished installing porcelain tile and grouting our shower. Thanks so much for your advice along the way. We used Bostik sanded grout mixed with DuPont Stonetech Professional stain protecting grout additive instead of water. Do we need to seal the grout? How long after grouting/sealing before we can use the shower? Thanks again.

    Laurie

    • Roger

      Hi Laurie,

      Nope, no need to seal the grout – it already is. Three days before use is fine.

  • Tommy

    Hey Roger,
    When I installed the black smooth cut river rock in our shower floor I use Grout Boost in the grout. Will it hurt to use Miracle Sealant’s seal & enhance over it after it is cleaned properly? The grout is a gray color, it & tile has a soap residue look to it.
    Thanks,
    Tommy

    • Roger

      Hi Tommy,

      It won’t do anything. It’ll go on there, sit, then wipe right off. You’d be wasting every ounce of the enhancer. The grout boost has sealed the grout and you won’t be able to get anything else into the pores of the grout, and likely the stone either.

  • Rob

    Hi Roger,

    Thanks for an awesome website! You’re a genius.

    I have a rental property in which I’m installing 3×6 travertine tiles around the tub/shower in a brickwork pattern with 1/16 grout lines. The stone is filled and honed. I’ll be using epoxy grout (SpectraLOCK, of course!)

    Because it’s a rental property, I prefer to go above and beyond basic protections; tenants are much less careful than owners.

    I did a water-test on the travertine to determine porosity. After 30 minutes, I saw no indication of penetration! The water simply beaded up and rolled off. (I didn’t try the cherry kool-aid as it’s not something traditionally found in showers. Still, it is a rental… hmmmm…)

    You mentioned that a water-based sealant for travertine is suitable because of the tendency toward large pores. But, based on my water test, I’m wondering if a solvent-based sealer would be better. Which would you suggest?

    Also, should I seal before installing the epoxy grout, or can I do it after?

    Thanks!

    Rob

    • Roger

      Hi Rob,

      The polished and filled travertines still have large pores beneath the surface. The act of polishing the surface closes up the surface pores and causes water to bead. However, since you only need to essentially block off the surface pores I would use a solvent-based sealer and give it a couple of coats. You can do it either before or after grouting, your choice.

  • Bill

    Hi Roger. We just finished putting down a porcelain floor in my daughter’s kitchen. Everything came from Lowes, including a product called Grout Boost. It’s a liquid that you mix with the grout, instead of adding water. The container says that after using this stuff, you don’t need to seal the grout. Ever. Do you have any experience with it, and is this really true? Thanks.

    • Roger

      Hi Bill,

      It does what it says it does. Keep in mind that it makes your grout harder to work with, may lead to discoloration, and makes it set up faster. But if you can get it installed with consistent color and it cures properly it’s true – you never have to seal it. :D

  • David

    Great site, Roger. I just put on 2 coats of Aqua Mix Pro water based penetrating sealer on our bathroom travertine tile and grout, and let cure for 24 hours. When testing, water beads up fine on the tile and pools on the grout. But the grout darkens a bit before drying. I understand sealant is not waterproofing, but want to make sure I do not need another coat for the grout. Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi David,

      Another coat certainly won’t hurt, but as far as maintenance purposes you should be just fine.

  • Bernadette

    Hi Roger –

    I’ve installed a mosaic backsplash with a mixture of polished marble, glass (normal and frosted), and stainless steel. I have a grout release product that I want to use before grouting to help with the cleanup process but I’m wondering about sealing after grouting. Is the Miracle 511 Impregnator safe for all of the mosaic surfaces I have including the unsanded grout lines? Or is there another sealer you would recommend?

    Thank you for your insight!

    • Roger

      Hi Bernadette,

      The 511 will work very well for your mosaic.

  • Dan

    Hi Roger – Great Website! (and appreciate the humor)
    I’ve just completed tiling a shower with polished marble and am choosing a grout. Reading your recommendations, I want to use Laticrete’s Spectralock product but 2 questions:
    1 – Will the vinegar solution used to wash off the excess grout harm the polished finish on the tiles?
    2 – Should the tiles be sealed prior to grouting or after? I’ll likely use a grout color that closely matches the tile.
    Thanks,
    Dan

    • Roger

      Hi Dan,

      1. No, it will not harm the marble.
      2. With polished marble you can seal it at any point. I prefer to seal it first, then grout.

  • Rodger Ericson

    We’re redoing a small (34” x 34″)shower with porcelain tiles. I found some grout sealer in the laundry room that has hardly been used and wonder if there is a shelf life for them. One is Tile Guard One Step Grout Sealer, a spray foam that by the pictures would also go on the tiles, with no need to wipe up any puddling. It says it’s a sealant polymer. The other is a 6 oz container from TileLab, a grout sealer goes on with an attached brush. The ingredient list says copolymer.
    I’d like to save a few bucks by using what I have but don’t want to use something that’s ineffective or would wreck the project.
    Thanks for your opinion.

    • Roger

      There is a shelf life on them, but I have no idea what they may be. I would venture to say that the tilelab sealer is fine, I would toss the spray foam stuff, I’m sure it doesn’t last long simply because of the nature of application. Test the tilelab on a spare piece, as long as it’s still liquid and you can buff it off (it doesn’t become sticky when applied) then it’s fine.

  • Michelle

    Hi Roger!

    I have unsealed Saltillo tile on my outdoor patio. I pressure washed it to get rid of years of black dirt and green fungus.

    I’d like to keep the tile looking nice. I’m considering applying a sealant myself. What kind and brand would you recommend?

    Thanks!
    Michelle

    • Roger

      Hi Michelle,

      Miracle Sealant’s 511 Porous Plus will work well.

  • sue

    Roger, I just completed my tumbled stone / glass mosaic kitchen backsplash.I have the 511 impregnator sealer to seal everything. my question is : is it better to apply sealer before or after grouting? the sanded grout is the nearly the same color as the stone tile.
    thanks so much for all of your sage ( & entertaining! ) advice.
    Sue

    • Roger

      Hi Sue,

      After, that way your grout is sealed as well.

  • Jeff Ward

    Hello Roger,

    Another probably “obvious” question but can’t seem to get good guidance from my local tile shop… :bonk:

    I have finished setting all 12″ x 12″ natural stone dark gray/black? slate tiles and 1 1/2″ – 2 1/2″ size pebble mats in back of niche, floor and down the center (12″s approx) of the shower head and valve wall…. :rockon: I am pretty happy with it overall..may even send some pics when finished…

    Now what :?:

    Do I seal these tiles before grouting or after grouting…

    The “experts” in my area aren’t quite all there! :censored:

    A few hundred more e-mails from you ( and yes I do plan to buy a couple of your books soon)…and I may be an “expert” :dance:

    Your work is superb!

    My wife keeps asking what am I doing up there…I have to keep convincing her I am looking at your pics (of tile jobs) and not “other stuff!”

    Thanks Much!

    Regards

    Jeff

    • Roger

      Hey Jeff,

      If you seal them first it makes cleaning up the grout considerably easier. You can do either, but I prefer sealing before grouting.

  • Laura

    Hi Roger,
    Wonderful Website!
    I have a problem with my porcelain bathroom tile. Last year while really sick I barfed across the floor. I didn’t get it cleaned up fast enough and now the tile is etched. It there anything I can do to put the shine back into my tile floor?
    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Laura,

      Not on porcelain tile. You can try to use an enhancing sealer over it. It may or may not work. You won’t get it back to the original shine.

  • Kim Lee

    Roger, first we love your website! We just finished installing polished Michaelangelo marble in shower with black I sanded grout. The marble has lost some of its “shiny” after several plain water cleanings. We are prepared to seal it with aqua mix enhance and seal to darken the grout and hopefully put shine back in marble – will this accomplish the shiny effector do we need to polish before sealing? Thank you

    • Roger

      Hi Kim,

      I would polish it to the shine before installing the sealer. The sealer itself may do it just fine, but if it doesn’t you’re out of luck at that point trying to get the sheen back on the surface.

      • Kim Lee

        Thank you Roger, we will give it a go with the polisher first. Thank you

  • melissa

    Hi,
    I am installing 12×12 honed marble tiles on my bathroom floor and I was curious as to what sealer you would recommend. 511 impregnator or porous plus? This is a bathroom with a lot of traffic. Also, would I use a sanded or non-sanded grout? Can either of those sealers be used on the grout?

    • Roger

      Hi Melissa,

      I would use the impregnator. The porous plus is for porous stones like travertine. Either one can be used. The type of grout will depend on your grout line size.

  • Terri

    Hi, I’m installation honed travertine wall tile in my shower and I just read your info on sealing the travertine after it’s up! My question is after I’ve sealed the tile then come back later and grout it, do I then need to go back and seal the grout or leave it unsealed.

    Love all the info you provide.
    Terri

    • Roger

      Hi Terri,

      If you want the grout sealed then yes, you’ll need to seal it afterwards as well. It’s completely up to you.

      • Terri

        Thanks for the info, one more question, Im using Verabond white for the travertine installation, Im also installing a glass tile border about 3 quarters of the way up on a piece of Ditra attached to the hardboard, Is it ok to use the same thinset for the glass tile or should I get something like FlexBond modified thin set to glass tiles?

        Thank You,
        Terri

        • Roger

          Hi Terri,

          The versabond is just fine for the glass.

  • Grace

    Hi Roger,

    We just finished grouting our tile floor yesterday with Bostik grout. We really liked the color of the grout when it was still wet, but when it dried, it turned many shades lighter. It was supposed to be a brownish color but ended up being cream colored. The wet color matched the sample chart; the dry color didn’t.

    I read in one of your comments that an enhancing sealer will make the grout look the way it does when it’s wet. Since we like the color of the grout when it’s wet, would you recommend using an enhancing sealer as opposed to grout stain? Can we seal just the grout and not the tile as well? Do you have any advice for using enhancing sealers (to ensure evenness in color, to avoid discoloring the tiles, etc)? How long should we wait before applying the sealer?

    Thanks for your time!

    • Roger

      Hi Grace,

      Sometimes an enhancing sealer will darken it, sometimes it won’t. You should test it in an inconspicuous spot first. You can try it after about 48 hours. Yes, you can seal just the grout.

  • Sandy Rush

    Hi Roger, great site!

    I’ve just installed polished marble, but not yet grouted. I’ve read both sealer articles and they’re amazingly informative. Do I apply the sealer after grouting or before? Also can I polish the marble, it seems a little sandy after the installation? How often do I polish and seal the tiles and in what order? Thanks for your time helping everyone.

    • Roger

      Hi Sandy,

      If your marble is lighter than your grout then yes, seal if first. If it isn’t you can do either. If it is sandy when you’re done it’s sand from the grout, you just need to clean it off again. You can polish the marble any time you want. There is no rule about how often to do it, every installation is different and it depends on how much traffic yours sees. You should not have to reseal it again unless you get some type of acid or etching material on it.

  • Bill

    Hi Roger. We are considering putting Carrara marble in our bathroom. I have heard that it yellows over time, and also that it could stain from (for example) blue colored toothpaste. What’s your experience with Carrara? It’s pretty expensive and I’d hate to see it change color like that. Will sealant or any other protectant help? If it does stain, can the stain be removed? Thank you for your advice.

    • Bill

      Oh, by the way, we are considering *honed* Carrara marble.

    • Roger

      Hi Bill,

      Normally it is the cheaper carrera’s that will yellow. The more expensive stuff normally won’t. Yes, it can stain but sealing it with a good sealer like miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator will help immensely. Yes, normally a poultice can remove most stains.

  • Steve

    Roger,

    I am planning on putting carrara marble 4×8 tiles for a shower wall (over kerdi) and bahtroom wainscoting (over drywall). I am planning on sealing it based on your advice.

    1. Sound good so far?
    2. I can’t find anything I like for under $12/sf (retail). Does this sound right? (The HD and Lowe’s stuff is a good deal cheaper, but doesn’t look as good)
    3. Is cutting the marble tile about the same as ceramic tile? Easier? Harder? Differenter? (I have a wet saw and can cut ceramic tile, what else, if anything, do I need when working with marble)

    • Roger

      Hi Steve,

      1. Yes, sounds fine.

      2. Yes, it sounds completely normal. HD and Lowe’s stuff isn’t as good.

      3. It’s more fragile. Work more slowly and take care when cutting along a striation in the stone, they are weak points.

      • Steve

        Roger,

        I did a test board of my 4×8 carrara marble tile to pick grout color (silver shadow wins, BTW) as well as test for “picture frame” issues with SpectraLock grout.

        I sealed half of the tiles with miracle 511, and the other half were unsealed. I grouted with the 3 different colors. Unfortunately we did see some picture frame effect. You can see it here:

        http://duckisabird.smugmug.com/Gaylord/Marble-sample-board/n-fCq9G/i-N3zmjkP/O

        Left side of the board is sealed, right is not.

        What I noticed is that one of the tiles (rightmost tile in the picture) had a worse “picture frame” effect than the others. It’s hard to isolate the reason for that tile being worse than the others, but I think that particular tile was affected more (more porous?) than the others, though I do think the sealing helped. It is also possible the staining is related to the grout color.

        1. Will this staining go away with time? Is there anything that can be done after the fact to remove it?
        2. I am planning on doing a new test board with tiles that are sealed on the edges as well as the top. Is this likely to help? If it does help is there any reason (besides the extra labor) that I shouldn’t do this? (I’m thinking along the lines of the grout not sticking, etc)
        3. I noticed some etching from (I presume) the cleaning solution (1 cup vinegar to a gallon of water) when doing the SpectraLock. Should I be using something else? (honed)

        Danke Schoen

        • Steve

          Update for #3: I read Spectralock instructions again. I had mistakenly read the “1/2 cup vinegar to 2 gallons of water” as “2 cups vinegar to 2 gallons water”, so I mixed it 4x strength…Beer. Rciprocal. Duh.

          I suspect that had something to do with my etching/un-prettying of the marble – of course I’m still open to any suggestions here.

        • Roger

          1. Yes, the picture framing will dissipate over time. It MAY take up to six weeks, but it will go away.
          2. That may compromise the bonding of the grout, it’s not really a good idea to do that. :)
          3. You have WAY too much vinegar in there, and yes, the etching is from that. Use either the packets that come with the spectralock or powdered dishwashing soap (the kind for your dishwasher), cascade works well.

          That tile is likely just more porous than the others. Natural stone has all sorts of inconsistencies which can not be controlled.