Proper Expectations and Applications
Not seal -Sealer – Seal-E-R!
In Tile and Stone Sealers Part 1 I explained how sealers work. If you haven’t yet read that please do so. It will give you a base understanding of how they get into your tile and what they protect against. It will help you understand what you’re looking for and also help decode some of the terms you may find here.
When choosing a sealer the first decision you should make is what you are trying to protect against. Silicone-based sealers protect against water-based stains – coffee, tea, beer Pepsi, stuff like that. Fluoropolymer-based sealers protect against oil-based stains – cooking oil, body oil, shampoo, stuff like that.
Easy enough so far?
One thing to keep in mind is Fluoropolymer sealers will protect against water-based stains to an extent but silicone sealers will not protect against oil-based staining. So you get both types of protection with fluoropolymers, but only water-based protection with silicones. 95% of my residential installations receive fluoropolyer-based sealer.
Although these different sealers will protect against different types of stains there is one thing that they will not protect against – etching. Etching is caused by an acid eating away at the molecular surface of your calcium-based stone. It is caused by things like lemons. Throwing lemon slices onto your marble countertop will etch away the surface of the marble – sealed or not. So there is nothing you can use to prevent etching from acids short of simply taking care not to get any types of acid on your tile.
Okay, time for a little reality check – send away the squeamish! One of the main sources of acid which will ruin any type of calcium-based natural stone is from your pet. You know, the dog that bursts into flames when you don’t properly waterproof your shower? (If you don’t know – you should read my blog more often – just sayin’…) Urine contains Uric acid. Uric acid will etch stone (and grout) and slowly eat away the surface of the stone. This is only on the molecular level, but continued etching will eventually become a macro problem. If you have pets and continue to have a mysterious problem with the surface of your stone in certain areas – that may be the cause. Sealer will not stop this.
Strangely enough this problem may show up around your toilet or on your shower floor. This normally happens when you have males in the house between the ages of five and ninety-five. We don’t aim well – unfortunately sealer will not solve this problem either.
In part one I also discussed the different types of carriers in sealers. The carrier is the vehicle which drives the sealer into the pores of the tile then dissipates. Once the carrier dissipates the sealer is left behind. This is how the sealer cures. The two base types are water and solvent. Solvent carrier-based sealers are better for tile and stone with smaller pores.
To determine which type would be best for your stone you can splash some water onto the surface of your (unsealed) tile. If the water is absorbed quickly then a water-based sealer should work fine for your installation. Stones like travertine, limestone, unpolished marble, unglazed ceramic and all cementitious grouts are suitable for water-based sealers.
Solvent-based sealers are best for tile and stone with smaller pores such as granite, polished marble and other polished stones, glazed ceramic and porcelains. Solvent-based sealers work on porous materials as well as materials with smaller pores!
You may have noticed the word porcelain up there. Yes, porcelains. While porcelain tile is less porous than ceramic (it will absorb less than 0.5% by weight) it still has pores in it. The pores in porcelain, however, are not simply test-tube shaped pits in the surface, they are shaped like little pyramids. They are very tiny at the top and get larger down into the body of the tile, beneath the glaze. It will only absorb that percentage of water, but oil-based substances have smaller molecular structures and will get into the porcelain more easily. So porcelain will still benefit from sealer, although it’s not normally necessary in a residential setting.
Nearly every tile product will benefit to some degree with a good sealer, provided the proper one is used. For the greater part of my time as a tile contractor I have used Miracle Sealant’s products. There are, however, a great many very good sealers available. DuPont and StoneTech are two brands that I’ve used, and still use periodically.
Sealer is another product where you will get what you pay for. So if you choose to seal your tile or stone you need to spend the extra money for a good one! Cheaper sealers, for instance, may not be UV stable (UV transparent), which means they may get a yellow tint to them over time. Seriously, spend the money for the good stuff.
The Good Stuff
As I stated I like Miracle Sealant’s sealers. Here are the ones I use based on what I’m sealing.
My go to sealer is Miracle Sealant’s 511 Impregnator. It is a fluoropolymer-based (polymerized silicone) impregnating sealer (solvent carrier) which works well for most any application.
If you have an extremely porous stone, like tumbled travertine, I prefer the 511 Porous Plus.
If you need or prefer a water-based sealer you want the 511 H2O Plus.
If you want to enhance your stone installation so it has a deeper, richer color (like when it’s wet – but not as ‘shiny’) you want the Seal & Enhance.
They also have basic grout sealer and a few other types of specialty sealers. Most really good sealer companies carry a sealer with comparable abilities, just call the company’s tech support line and tell them what you’re looking for. They’ll know what you’re talking about – and now you do too!
When sealing your tile installation put some thought into it, figure out what you really need and what benefits you are looking for and decide on one with realistic expectations. They are not a magic product, there is a LOT of research behind tile and stone sealers and they have specific benefits based on specific needs. As long as you know what to expect and choose the proper product for your application a good sealer will make your maintenance chores much easier.
They DO NOT, nor are they designed to, waterproof your installation! They do not waterproof your tile and stone. They are not an acceptable fix or magic cure for improper or non-existent waterproof substrates for your shower or other wet areas. They will, however, prevent cherry Kool-Aid from ruining your marble countertop – as long as you clean it up quickly enough. They will help keep nasty stuff from staining your beautiful tile and stone.
And who doesn’t want that?
I’ll have about 700sq. ft. of travertine to seal with 511. What technic do you use for spreading the 511 with that size of space? Do you use a sponge roller, cotton cloth, ect. looking for a way to apply it standing up.
My back and knees’s hurt thinking about it.
Get a painting pad and an extension arm for it, put your sealer in a paint pan and go at it.
Hi!
I had penny tile with white grout installed on my bathroom floor. In kids bath. (Mistake, I know.) Right after it was installed it looked bad. The tile was nice and the installation looked fine but when it got wet, the water darkened it in parts and then anything would stain it even when I immediately cleaned it. The contractor used some sealer and repeated twice. Dirt seems to actually stick to floor, and the floor seems dirty all the time even though its 5 months old. We clean the floor several times a week.
So question 1) what’s going on you think?
Question 2) Can I outright replace all the grout on penny?
I will use a new guy. My guy won’t call back now that the check is cashed!!!
Hilarious. I have never posted on any site and my first is for grout.
Thanks so much!!!!
Nelly
Hi Nelly,
Welcome to the internet! Wave hi to the NSA.
The problem is simply white grout. Anything, at all, that isn’t white is going to show up and make it look dirty. Sealers do not make grout stain-proof, it only assists in preventing the dirt from permanently staining the grout. I would be extremely leery about replacing grout in penny tiles. It can be done, but the headache of trying to remove the existing grout is almost more than it’s worth. Your best option would likely be a grout colorant. It will darken your grout as well as leave a further impenetrable coating on the surface of it. I would look into having that done.
Hi Roger,
I’ve just installed a basketweave white/black polished marble with 1/8″ gaps between tiles in a bathroom/shower room. I’m planning to do black unsanded grout next, but I’m thinking about pre and post grout sealers… I have a CBP brand pre-grout sealer left over from old project, but it says it’s for porous stone, and needs another product (a heavy duty cleaner and stripper) to remove it before applying final sealant, and I worry this may damage the polished look. I also bought a Du Pont High Gloss Sealer and Finish from Lowes for post-grout sealing that supposedly gives a highly polished look. After reviewing Du Pont’s website, it indicates the sealer is not for use on polished stone. I also have half a bottle of 511 impregnator sealer left over from project 6 years ago. I’m not sure what to use, because after internet research, I found some website recommended not sealing polished marble, only honed marble? I want this floor to have at least a little water/urine/beer-resistance (tiles do absorb water), and maintain some of the polished look. What would you recommend for pre/post sealers?
Thanks,
Andrea
Hi Andrea,
Don’t use the cbp – it’s a topical sealer. The stuff from lowes is an enhancing sealer, so it won’t do much good. The 511 is the one to use. Sealing polished marble is not really necessary, but it doesn’t hurt. And you definitely should seal it if you’re using black grout on it. You can use it before you grout, then use it again after you grout for the final sealer.
Unfortunately urine will still etch the surface – it’s an acid. Some throw rugs may be in order.
Beer won’t hurt 511 or the stone under it – don’t ask me how I know that (I’m sure you can guess, though).
Awesome – thank you. I’ll use the 511 for pre and post grouting sealant on the marble. Do you think 511 will still be good after sitting around in my (not temperature regulated) garage for 5-6 years? I also have a new bottle…
My next project is slate. Would 511 also be a good pre-grout sealer for slate? I will definitely use it as a post-grout sealer.
PS: Yay for beer!
I laid 400 sf of tile this summer. The 511 was a lifesaver! I did use it pre-grout as a release, and put on another coat after the grout was cured, sealing both tile and grout. Liquid just beads up on it and wipes off easily. Worth it’s weight in gold!
Wow, I really don’t know about the 5-6 year thing. You can call miracle sealants (there should be an 800 number on the bottle) and ask them. I’m not sure what the shelf life it. I use it faster than that.
And if you do that could you please let me know what they say so I know the next time someone asks? I’d appreciate it.
The 511 works well for slate, the porous plus from miracle sealants works better, though.
We had a backsplash installed recently. The backsplash has stainless tiles, glass tiles, and stone. The installer wiped a sealer over it for the stone. Now all the glass and stainless tiles have a film over them that does not want to come off. How can I remove this without hours of scrubbing and chancing scratching the stainless tiles?
Hi Angela,
Get some of the same sealer, put some on a soft cotton towel and buff them. The new sealer will reactivate the haze and you’ll be able to buff it off with little effort.
Hey Roger,
As part of my porcelain tile tub surround, I am including I wide strip of mosaics from ceiling to the top of the tub. The mosaics are your typical interlocking 1/2 inch wide strips of various lengths on mesh and are made of glass and marble.
My questions are:
1. Do I need to seal the marble?
2. If so, should I apply the sealer before or after I apply the Spectralock Pro Premium grout?
3. Which sealer should I use?
And, another unrelated question: I’m sure this has never happened to you, but I have a “friend” who noticed a nick about the size of a pencil eraser in the porcelain tub he just installed. I guess he wasn’t careful enough during his tile installation. Do you know of a good product, including brand, to use to repair it? He’s so embarrassed.
Thanks
Hey Tom,
1. It’s always better to seal the marble.
2. It’s easier to grout if you seal it before.
3. I prefer miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator
Tell your ‘friend’ to drink the beer AFTER the tile is done for the day.
In the meantime hand him this: Porcelain chip repair
Hi Roger, great article.
Have a question with a little story.
Our new granite countertop (Ghibli) was installed two nights ago. The installer sealed it with Hydrex, and told us to wipe it down in 24 hrs. Ok, when I said “sealed it”, well he basically slapped on large amount of sealer on top of the countertop and left it like that. Silly me, didn’t look up Hydrex application procedure that night ( it was late), so maybe then, I would have wipe it down on the spot. Well, I didn’t…
Now there are spots on the counter with heavy haze, I just couldn’t take them off when I tried last night.
Do you think, if I would re apply the sealer and wipe it off righ a way, would it help? If not, what do you suggest I shoud do?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Sebastian,
Yes, it will work. Fresh sealer will reactivate the sealer already on the counter (haze) and should allow you to buff it right off. You may need to do it a couple of times, but it should come off.
Thanks for you reply. It gives me a bit more confidence
Hi Roger, we are considering using a stone product, like travertine, granite, or marble, on the bathroom floor and/or tub walls. First question, are all three of these products OK to use for these applications Second, how often should I seal them? Thank you.
Hey Bill,
Yes, any of them are suitable. The frequency of sealing depends on many factors – which stone (the more porous and soft the more often), how much traffic, what particular sealer, etc. There is no one answer to that question. Actually there is: Reseal it when it needs to be resealed.
I’m a lot of help, huh?
As always, you provide the best recommendations and hints, so I’m going to stretch and ask a second question: I’m using granite mini-slabs for counter tops and a tub surround and I’ve polished the edges with small bevels for all of the grouting joints just like you said to match the factory bevels (and the water and diamond polishing pads on the 3000 rpm buffer worked fantastic, you might even like of my drip irrigation water sprayer zip tied to the buffer trick —BTW YOU ARE SO AWESOME) and we’ve treated the top surface with the 511 Impregnator and thin set the pieces down with 253 to virtual perfection (or so I think, my mate may think “not so much”, but I won’t hold that against her :-) What I am most concerned with now is will the spectra lock pro premium epoxy grout stain the granite? We used it on the porcelain tiles we put down and truly like how easy it was to apply, but I cheated and used 2″ blue painter taped 1/4 in off all of the edges and limited my grouting action to that 4-1/2 in area. The tiles are slate replicas with a bunch of texture, so I didn’t want to have to clean 20in square tiles by spreading it over the entire tile. MICROFIBER towels are the way to go for cleaning. I plan to tape the seams again, to limit the cleanup, but how do I test without buying a mini? I don’t have any of the old stuff to use. Should I be worried? How much should I be worried? Should I drink before or after? or before and after?
Hey Mark,
Unless you are using a contrasting grout (like black grout on white tile) it will not stain the granite. The fact that you sealed it first nearly guarantees it. What I would do is get everything ready to grout and mix up your grout batch, go over a spare piece of the granite then clean it off (right away is just fine) and make sure it doesn’t stain it. Although I’ve only seen it happen once (unsealed limestone – duh! Mybad…) I still always test like that.
Always, ALWAYS, drink before, during and after. Don’t let tile cut into your drinking hobbies!
We have just installed for our fireplace limestone tile, with 1/16″ grout lines, and we have the unsanded grout ready to go. It is a very light colored grout to match the tiles. I have seen conflicting advice as to whether or not to seal the tile prior to grouting – what are your thoughts?
Hey Mike,
It will make it a lot easier to grout. Limestone is an extremely porous stone and will suck the moisture out of the grout extremely quickly. Believe me, sealing it first will make your life much easier.
Well, grouting your fireplace anyway.
Thanks for the response!
Roger
Help! After reading your Free Complete Shower Waterprofing Manual. I also read that waterproof barriers for showers should not be used if the shower walls are on exterior walls of houses. Two of my shower’s walls are are on exterior walls. One wall has studs, OSB, Tyvek then Hardi plank siding. The other wall has studs, tar paper, then brick veneer. So far in the shower construction Durock was screwed to the studs on all 4 walls by the contractor. What should I do? Aside from shoot the contractor?
Lauren
Hi Lo,
You need a waterproof barrier over the hardi of some manner, sheet or liquid topical. The issue with exterior walls is with either a vapor barrier on the interior side of the walls or faced insulation, either of which may trap moisture without a space to dissipate. If you have stud bays between your substrate and exterior barrier it won’t be a problem.
Hi Roger –
We are planning on installing bullnose tile around an inset to “frame” it in…The bullnose will be applied directly to the slate tile that is currently on the wall. Is silicone the best way to get a good bond or shoudl we use thinset? I plan on sealing the edges with the same silicone caulk that I used in the corners. We will then be using a seal and enhance on the slate prior to grouting. Thanks for all your helpful answers!
Hi Mary,
Use thinset if you’re going to do that. Silicone won’t last.
Thanks Roger…..just out of curiosity, i have one more question……the tile shop rep told me to use liquid nails (for a wet environment) and then seal the edges. What do you think about that? Thanks again!
I think the guy at the tile shop is an idiot. Perhaps he should go dig ditches for a living instead.
Hi there – I appreciate your lengthy explanation of sealants, but wish the descriptions of the products themselves actually said something about fluoropolymers or solvent- vs water-based, ie some of the language you used to clarify what is out there. Also – what about miracle sealants new spray on 511, claimed by them to be the”new” way to seal? Those called ‘511’ the aerosol doesn’t indicate whether it is the impregnating sealer or porous plus – or a combination of both. The only hint – but who knows – is it claims to protect against water and oil based stains. And the spray is a different product from another MS sealant, 6-ounce size, called “grout sealant” and the description helpfully states “this is not a surface coating but a deep penetrating sealant,” etc. so there is a good guess –I hope — it is solvent based and the stuff I’m after (it’s a small bathroom).
But you say the etching issue is unavoidable with either kind of sealant. So does an enzymic cleaner take care of the problem? I wonder if I will be able to get out the smell at all given what you said about uric acid and etching tile, but I have some of that sco10 product, so if it works I’ll let you know
I have 3 male cats, one arthritic who either urinates standing up in the bathtub or– a recent victory– in a litter box in the kitchen. I recently discovered when he urinates in his (high-walled) box, he misses the box altogether, and has thus probably impregnated the grout and possibly the underpart of the ceramic tile I put in 10 years ago (and have no idea what sort of sealant I used). The strange thing was it took literally months for any odor to appear, despite the fact there was probably a layer of urine/water on the surface of the tile but under the plastic the entire time. Does that say anything about the type of sealant I used? Now however it does smell, quite strongly — but only if I go near the area
(meaning head at floor level). I’ve washed it once w/soap and water but not done a real scrub down, and the odor did not exactly dissipate — so I’ll try the SCO10 next [this is the company who guarantees the product will remove any odor, period, and for $5 you can order a test kit containing skunk oil to prove it!
But the reason I’m writing is bc now
I’m retiling the bathroom floor w 1″ porcelain unfinished hex tile. At what point should I seal the tiles — only at the end? I’ve read some posts where people sealed the tile and the mortar first, then grouted and sealed. Would it make sense to seal these first with the solvent based stuff and then seal the grout with the water based kind?
Or are these situations — ie uric acid corrosion- the reason for products like “tile and porcelain cleaner and resealer” — as opposed to the same for stone –and is this enough of a resealant?
Too many questions I’m sure — but I still have more! Not bored yet…
So in theory — are both mastic and thin-set sealed by these products even though they are chemically so different? Is mastic supposed to be sealed with something specific before grouting? I will go read your posts on mastic now, since I haven’t yet and am sure there must be something.
thanks again!
Nina
Hi Nina,
Don’t know anything about the new 511 spray sealer, I don’t use spray sealers. I do know it’s likely a penetrating sealer, though, as that’s all miracle sealants produces in the 511 line.
The only reasons to seal before grouting are when using a dark grout with lighter tile, like black grout with white marble, or if you have a very porous tile like a tumbled travertine, or an unglazed porcelain. That’s it.
Your SCO10 may or may not work, I don’t know.
You are not sealing either the thinset or grout. You are only sealing the tile and grout. Yes, the resealers are more than enough but it will still not remedy etching – nothing will. Once the product is etched it means that the calcium has been eaten away, it’s vanished, it no longer exists. Sealer will not fix that.
Hi Roger,
Fyi, neither of the HD stores in town have it, and apparently won’t be stocking it in the future
Pity, i wanted to use it this weekend.
Thanks again!
Thanks Roger. Will look into it!
Hello Roger,
Great info; thanks so much for sharing your wealth of info (and humor) on this site!
May I ask for your opinion on a sealant? we are DIY installing 16X24 mountauk black slate (http://www.msistone.com/slate/montauk-black/) in our 3’X5′ shower walls and interlocking flat pebbles (https://www.tileimports.net/products/swarthy-black-flat-tumbled-1359.html) on the shower floor. We would like a moderate shinny look that will give the slate a wet look, but not something extremely glossy. Would you recommend 511 Seal & Enhance for this application? If so, do you know where I could buy this in Fort Collins? (yes, we are neighbors!)
Thanks again!
Francisco
Correction: I meant to say that the dimensions of the tile were 12″ X 24″
Same answer.
Hey Fransisco,
The seal ‘n’ enhance would be perfect for what you’re looking for. Home Depot north used to carry it, I don’t know if they do anymore or not, they’ve changed a lot of products in the last six months. One of the stores should carry it.
Thanks for all of your ebooks and all the information you provide. Do you have any experience or information regarding “Granite Shield” that offers a Lifetime warranty?
Hi Harry,
Don’t know much about it, never used it. I can say it is either a coating which sits on top of the stone or they are crystallizing the stone (which closes the pores but may cause more problems). There is no msds sheet or technical details I can find about it, everything is just…marketing. All of it – marketing. I wouldn’t use it simply because of that. Technical details should always be readily available with any chemical. Their ‘questions’ page does state that it will still etch – but you know, you can polish it out in five minutes or so.
Roger,
Thanks for your answer. Great Minds run alike. Their web and videos make Granite Shield look and sound like a very good product. But then – almost all, if not all of the Positive information on the net is by the seller. All of the negatives are from competitors and “Internet Experts” none of whom have actually used the product. Real world user reviews, positive or negative are noticeably missing for a company that has been marketing Granit Shield since 2002. Just as you stated, it appears to be all Marketing Hype and that appears to be on both sides. I appreciate your honest opinion and will probably stick with Miracle 511 Impregnator. As you are a Marine from Ft. Collins, we know you can only have a Valid and Honest Opinion!
No MSDS for Granite Shield – Hmmmmm! This is answer I received from Debbie Phillips of Granite Shield regarding their MSDS Sheets. “Do to so many wanting to duplicate our chemicals we don’t have it available to the public just to our customers that have purchased product and our applicators.”
That’s also against federal regulations not having an msds sheet available before purchase. Sounds like a class operation.
Calling all granite lovers. Put a drop or so of water on your surface. Wait 5 minutes. If it has not been absorbed then you probably will be wasting money on a sealer…just my opinion after a bunch of research a few years ago.
I was talking to the people where I bought my tile and I told them I was doing a steam shower. She told me to use epoxy grout for a steam shower? Is this true? Also i was wondering if I seal the tile and pebble tile before grouting if this would make it easier to clean up after? Thanks
Hi James,
Epoxy is, in my opinion, the best option for a steam shower. It isn’t required, though. If you seal your tile first it will be MUCH easier to clean. You will, however, want to let the sealer fully cure before grouting.
How long does it take the sealer to fully cure? I guess it probably depends on the type of sealer I use. I live in Canada so I’m not sure if I would be able to find the same brands you recommend.
Hi James,
It does depend on the sealer, and with any of them it will tell you right on the bottle how long that is. As far as I know miracle sealant’s sealers are available in Canada too, but any good sealer will be fine.
Perfect. Last question. I promise…maybe. After I seal i was going to use epoxy grout on my change of planes and then still use a silicone matching caulking in the corners. Is this ok? Let me know if I should be posting this somewhere else as well.
In a steam shower you DO NOT (!!!) want to install epoxy grout in any change of plane – ever. Use silicone for every change of plane in your shower. Extreme temperature variations in steam shower cause excessive movement. Epoxy grout in corners will crack. Being that epoxy is actually stronger than some tile it may crack your tile instead of the grout. Really. Use silicone only.
I am planning on sealing my new granite countertops with the Miracle 511 Impregnator. My plan is to use a foam brush and do it in sections leaving the sealer on for 1-3 minutes and then wiping it off before 5 minutes. I will probably use a cloth to apply sealer to the edges of the counter to avoid drips on the new cabinets. Does this sound okay? I’ve been afraid of sealing my granite in the past for fear I might end up with a haze or film on the granite. Also, do you normally find that one coat of sealer is enough on polished granite? I’m guessing I will need two coats of sealer when I seal the floor grout and was wondering how long I need to wait between coats as the bottle is not clear on that? Lastly, I thought porcelain tile didn’t need sealing but I noticed it was listed on the bottle of sealer – do you recommend sealing floor and shower tile if it is porcelain?
Thank you for your awesome advice – we are renovating an entire house and your website has been invaluable!
Hi Linda,
That will work fine. If you do end up with haze you can always put a little more sealer on it and rebuff it. That will take the haze right off. One coat should be enough on polished marble. You can put the second coat on in about two hours with 511. While not required for porcelain it does benefit it.
Hey Floor elf! I am installing a black pebble tile with black grout. I wanted to use a wet look sealer on the pebble tile with this work? Also I have glazed porcelain tile. Is it ok to put a wet look sealer on this if it is floor tile? Thanks in advance.
The pebble tile is on the floor as well.
Hi James,
The enhancing sealer will work fine on the pebble, but I wouldn’t use it on any of the floors. The problem is that as the sealer wears, unlike regular sealer the enhancing sealer will wear out and be noticeable. You’ll see exactly where the sealer is worn off. Pars of your installation will be shiny, and the portions that are worn will not be. To reseal you need to remove ALL of the sealer, you can’t just replace the worn out parts.
I would find a sealer which does not change the look of the tile on the floor. If you want shiny tile there you should purchase a shiny tile to install there.
So I shouldnt use the enhancing sealer on the shower floor with the pebble tile? Also thank for the quick reply. All your information is fantastic and somehow you made researching tiling fun! keep it up! Cheers with Beers! I mean pepsi’s haha.
I would not use it there. Eventually you’ll begin seeing a dull (unshiny) area where the water pattern hits. When that happens you’ll need to strip all the sealer off that floor to reseal it.
Ok, now I’m confused. I used the 511 Seal and Enhance on my slate wall tile, (love it) and was planning to use it on the slate floor tile too. Should I use a different product on the floor? Thanks for all of your great advise!!
Hi Linda,
511 seal and enhance is NOT a coating sealer, it is an impregnating sealer. You can use it on your shower floor and it CAN be spot-sealed. Sorry, I did not make that clear.
What type and brand of sealer would you recommend for a brushed slate tile on a bathroom floor?
Hi Cathie,
Miracle sealant’s 511 porous plus.
Think of applying sealers as a if you were painting, you want to apply the sealer to the surface of the stone. If you use a big sponge or rag then you end up throwing away lots of expensive sealer in the applicator. the sealer will soak into a sponge like it soaks into the stone. Sometimes I do use a spray bottle for vertical surfaces. (they dont last long) a small piece of rag works on countertops or floors.
I tell clients that marble will get blemished over time. if you think that this is patina and old world charm then nothing can match the veining and beauty of marble. If the slightest blemish will make you nuts then don.t put in marble. Do Not Believe the Salesman that says that Sealer will Keep acid from eating marble. Marble is made out of the same stuff that Tums is made out of. They both react with acid Several Manufactures make a high definition polished porcelain tile that look like marble. This is a good alternative.
Yo Elfster: On the home stretch of my shower enclosure using your traditional guide. In regards to the Hardiebacker, you note leaving gaps between seam, but I didn’t see anything about the interface with the shower pan. Should the hardiebacker rest right on the pan, or should there be a gap there too (and then filled with something?) I plan on tiling the floor after I put up the substrate.
Hey Brigham,
There needs to be a 1/16″ – 1/8″ gap there for movement compensation, you don’t need to fill it with anything.
does it matter which side of the hardiebacker faces out? I accidently mounted one “backwards” (it’s a little rougher texture on the backside).
Not really. Either way works fine. Smoother side out is better, but it will bond just as well to the other side. It won’t affect anything.
Turns out some of my hardiebacker measuring and cutting wasn’t quite as precise as I’d like. Is it a problem if the space between a couple boards is closer to 1/4 inch?
1/4″ space between the boards isn’t that big of a deal.
Tried to post this the other day but am not sure it worked. (Apologize if it’s a duplicate question). I read somewhere that when grouting porous tile, as in the ton of slate I have, sealing prior to grouting makes it easier to remove the grout. Your thoughts? Also wonder how this works with travertine and all those nooks and crannies. Thanks for all your great advice!
Hey Linda,
Sealing any type of tile before grouting assists greatly with cleanup while grouting, especially with slate.
Thank you so much for these wonderful articles about sealers. How timely!
I originally planned to use marble on our heated floors in my master bath, but recently heard that marble is an awful floor decision because of urine, soaps, and vomit. (It always looks so nice in those fantastic casino bathrooms that I love in Las Vegas!)
Today I drug hubs (Patrick) to a chain tile shop to get ideas on porcelain or ceramic tiles. A salesman approached me and asked what we were doing. I told him how I was scared of Carrara because of etching, especially bc I live with a cat and a human who pees while standing up. He said etching only happens to grout that hasn’t been properly sealed with their store brand sealer that has been applied with their store brand sponge that applies the perfect amount of sealer. I mentioned that I don’t care about the grout etching, but rather the stone being etched. The sales guy talked fast a little longer, handed me a card and left.
I turned to Patrick and say that I don’t know whether or not to believe the sales guy since he talks fast and from a place of authority, but that I got the feeling that he didn’t know what I was talking about when I mentioned the stone itself being etched. Patrick asks, “Why don’t you see what Floor Elf says!” Great idea! I’m so glad you posted these articles, bc I think I’m going to have to use porcelain or ceramic, if I want to stay married or have pets.
When I finally choose my non-stone tile, is there a special applicator that you suggest I use to apply Miracle Sealant 511 Impregnator?
Thanks again and again!
Holly
Kansas City, MO
There are special applicators, but you can (and should) use a sponge or cotton towel. You ARE NOT supposed to use a spray bottle!
I use a spray bottle. IF you do make damn sure you use a mask while you do it.
I will definitely do so! Thank you so much, kind sir!