Not that kind of seal!

How they work

Sealers, I’ve discovered since starting this site, are one of the most misunderstood products used for tile and stone. There are so many different brands, types and uses that it’s difficult to figure out what you actually need for your particular installation. So I’m gonna try to clear some of that up for you.

This will only cover a very small portion of the entire market for this type of product. I’m going to explain the different basic types of sealers and how they work, as well as the proper use for most common installations. This is NOT an all-encompassing article and will not include every scenario and installation. It is only a basic instruction on different types and uses.

Be sure to research any specific product you choose to utilize and always – ALWAYS – test the product first on a spare piece of your tile or stone to ensure you will not run into any incompatibility issues.

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There are two types of water drainage called weep holes. There are weep holes in the shower drain in the floor beneath the tile, and there are (should be!) weep holes at the bottom of the tile installation on shower walls above a tub or acrylic shower base. They both do the same thing (allow water behind the tile to drain), needed for different installations. I will address both here.

Weep holes in shower drains beneath shower floor tile

In a traditional shower floor (with a pre-slope, rubber liner, top slope then tile) weep holes are required in the shower drain. The top mud deck, or top slope (the deck mud onto which the tile is installed) will remain saturated with water (if the shower is used regularly). This is called a water-in, water-out system. Water will get behind your wall tile, and beneath your floor tile. When properly constructed your shower has the waterproof liner installed over a pre-slope, then deck mud is installed over that with tile bonded directly to it.
The water that gets behind your tile will run down your waterproofing and into the floor liner. That water will soak into the deck mud on the top slope. This is normal!
With every use, the water will flush through, with new water getting behind your tile and forcing the old water down, eventually into the drain.
This is water-in, water-out.
When unused, gravity will draw that water down toward the drain. Since this layer is below your tile, so below the top opening of your drain, that water needs a way to enter the drain. That is the purpose of weep holes in your shower drain.
Regardless of your brand of clamping drain, the weep holes will be integrated into the upper flange.
A clamping drain is called that because the rubber liner…wait for it… is clamped between the upper and lower flange, creating the seal.
Tile product manufacturers aren’t known for their originality.🤷‍♂️
This image shows the hole in the liner, centered over the lower flange (place silicone beneath the liner to help seal it). The upper flange is the black ring sitting next to it. The keyhole-shaped holes are placed over the bolts, twisted to lock in place, and tightened down to clamp the liner between the two flanges and seal it. If you look at that ring the four little channels along the edge that run inward toward the four holes are your weep holes. The water runs through those channels and down into the weep holes into the drain.

Which tile to choose depends mostly upon where you plan to install it and, of course, whether or not is has the look you want for that specific application.For the former I will explain several things to take into consideration. The latter is entirely up to you (unless you’re the husband, in which case it’s up to your wife). So before you choose your tile you need to consider a couple of things.

Where are you installing the tile?

If it will be installed on a wall in a non-wet area, you do not need to worry about much except whether or not you like the way it looks. A non-wet area is defined as an area that is not regularly exposed to a significant amount of water. Wainscots, backsplashes, and fireplaces are examples on non-wet areas.

If it will be installed in a wet area, such as a shower, you need to take into consideration the absorption rate of the tile to an extent. Although it is not that dire to consider this, the lower the percentage of absorption, the better it will be for your application.

You can install travertine in a shower but porcelain will be easier to take care of. An application such as a steam shower or exterior patio would suggest a lower absorption rate. A good rule of thumb is the higher the chance of exposure to moisture and temperature, the lower the absorption rate you want.

If the tile will be installed on a floor you will also want to consider what is called the Static Coefficient of Friction. That’s just a big phrase to describe how slippery a tile is.

This number will (usually) be below one.  Just consider this number to be between 1 and 10. For instance, consider a SCOF (Static Coefficient of Friction) or COF of 0.5 to be a 5. This is the number which most standards consider “slip resistant”.The higher the number, the less slippery it will be.

Tile will have two COF numbers – one for wet and one for dry. You may want to consider both numbers for an application such as a bathroom or shower floor or a patio. Consider a 1 (0.1) to be akin to ice and a 10 (1.0) to be sandpaper.

Other factors to take into consideration include the size of the tile as well as the size of the grout lines (to a smaller degree).  If you have 2 inch by 2 inch tile with fairly large grout lines, such as a shower floor mosaic,  it will have more friction than 18 X 18 inch tiles with 1/16 grout lines. The grout lines add friction because they are uneven and break up the flat, continuous surface of the tile.

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