The size of grout lines for tile is something that comes up on almost every tile installation. The secret no professional will tell you is there is really no set or absolute proper size for your grout lines. There are some guidelines that need to be followed but the actual size is more of a personal choice than it is a set width.

Grout line guidelines

Since grout line widths are generally a personal preference I’ll let you know what mine are. I separate most tiles into three different categories:

  • Small format tile – Tiles up to and including 8 X 8 inches square.
  • Regular – 12 X 12 up to 16 X 16 inches square.
  • Large format tile – 18 X 18 inches and larger.

These are not technically official category names for tile sizes – it’s just what I call them. I’m weird like that.

Small format tile

A lot of smaller format tiles are self-spacing. That means that on either two or four sides of each tile there are what are called “lugs”. Lugged tile have small bumps or protrusions on the sides which are set directly against the tile next to it. Most of these tiles are made specifically for vertical applications, those are shower walls, backsplashes, etc., rather than floors.

The lugs on the tiles allow them to be stacked atop one another and keep the grout lines consistent throughout the installation. For tiles with lugs on only two sides of each tile you must make sure they are all stacked in the same direction, that the lugs are not butted against each other. Normally the lugs will create grout lines that are 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch.

For small format tiles that do not have lugs I will usually use 1/16″ spacers. Depending upon the texture and consistency of the tiles I may use 1/8″ spacers on occasion. For instance 8 inch slate tiles will usually look better with a slightly larger grout line.

If you prefer larger grout lines but have lugged tiles – don’t panic. You can still use spacers with the lugs. To ensure consistency you need to make sure that you either put the spacers between all the lugs or between the spaces the lugs are not. In other words do not put a spacer between the lugs on one tile and between spaces where there are not lugs on another. To figure out the size of your grout lines you also need to add the size of the lugs to the size of the spacer if you use the spacers between them.

Regular format

Regular format tiles are what I install on most of my jobs. More often than not I will use 1/16″ grout lines on vertical surfaces and 1/8″ lines on floors. I just think it looks better and as long as the tile is consistent enough, that’s what I’ll use. I will usually use the smallest grout line the tile will allow.

The best way to figure out how small you can go is to lay out nine tiles in a square and measure from corner to corner in both directions. If they are within 1/16 inch you can go that small with your grout lines. Some tiles such as slate and some quarry tiles will not be consistent enough to use a grout line that small. The largest grout line I will use is 3/16″ unless otherwise specified by the builder or customer.

Large format

Large format tiles are a bit tricky. These, more than either of the other two, are more dependent upon the tile itself. While most people will purchase larger format tiles specifically because they do not want a lot of grout lines, sometimes the tile will not allow it. Although this is rarely a problem, you need to be aware of it and make sure you check the tiles before you try to go with a very small grout line.

The easiest way to check larger format tiles is simply to measure corner to corner in each direction to ensure squareness. As long as they are the same in both directions, they’re square. Then measure several different tiles from different boxes. With a very good tile you should get exactly the same measurement every time. If that’s the case, you can use a 1/16″ grout line and not have any problems.

Large format tiles with 1/16″ or 1/32″ grout lines and a grout that matches the tile color closely looks great! If done correctly it will almost look like a single large slab of tile.

Which do you prefer?

As you can see there is really no absolute answer. If you like smaller grout lines, as long as the tile will allow it, use them. If you prefer larger, use larger. As a general rule do not go larger than 3/16″ although under certain circumstances such as some slates and quarry tiles, 1/4″ is acceptable.

If you choose to use smaller grout lines you must ensure the tile will allow it. If you don’t you may end up with lines that “jog”. That means the lines will not be perfectly straight and will jump over just a bit with every tile due to inconsistencies in tile sizes.

If you prefer larger grout lines you need to take into consideration the “grid effect”. If you do not use a grout that somewhat matches the tile color you may end up with an installation that looks more like a grid made of grout than tile with a grout accent. The smaller the tile, the more pronounced this effect may become.

No matter which you choose, you must make sure you use the correct type of grout. If your grout is chosen and installed correctly your good tile installation can turn into a great one. Make sure you consider your grout as much as you consider your tile. It can make or break your whole look.

{ 449 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

 
  • John Laing

    I have installed and grouted 12″ square tiles. I want to install 4″ tiles in place of baseboard. Should they be installed with a grout line under them or directly on to the existing tiles obviously leaving the grout line in between to match the floor tiles?

    • Roger

      Hi John,

      You need to leave about a 1/16″ space between the floor tile and base tile – fill it with silicone. The two planes (floor and wall) are going to expand and contract in different directions and likely at different rates. Having that space filled with silicone will give the installation enough flexibility to compensate for that.

  • jim

    48 inch schluter tray will fit in shower frame before installing 1/2 ” cement board on walls, but will have to be cut 1/2″ or less on both sides to fit after, does it make a defferance if the cement board sits on top of the tray? or is it better to trim tray and let cement board go down pass tray?

    • Roger

      Hi Jim,

      It’s better to have the cement board on top of the tray – not running down behind it.

  • Cheryl

    Hi Roger,

    What do you recommend to seal the grout in the shower area? Thanks.

    Cheryl

    • Roger

      Hi Cheryl,

      You didn’t specify the type of tile or stone but the one I use for most installations is Miracle Sealant’s 511 impregnator.

  • Nick

    Thanks Roger! I know others have said it but I will say it again – you are awesome and the info you provide is great for the DIY’ers like me trying to figure this stuff out on our own.

    I do have two separate questions for you. 1) Do you prefer to finish off the edges of porcelain tiles using bullnoses or the Schluter stuff? I have to finish off two edges of the shower that go into the bathroom and they are almost 9′ tall and that is a lot of bullnoses. 2) I am using a Sterling Ensemble shower pan. Do you know if it is possible to tile the front face (curb) of it? It is about 3.5″ tall. If so, would I use regular thinset or something else? I thought this might help hide the bright white shower base and also tie into the tile base I plan on using on the other walls where it meets the floor tiles

    • Roger

      Hey Nick,

      I normally prefer the bullnose, however, either one works well. That is a lot of bullnose, but the schluter trims aren’t very cheap either.

      You can not attach anything to the face of the acrylic curb which will last long-term. The differential expansion between the tile and acrylic is too much for anything to hold a bond on a permanent basis. What you can do is build a curb in front of it and install the tile up to the lip, then silicone the gap. That will last since the tile is not actually physically attached to the acrylic. That, of course, is assuming you have the space to do that.

  • Nick

    Hi Roger,

    I am using 16×16 porcelain slate style darker tiles on a 30sqft bath floor and the same tiles in 8×16 horizontal brick pattern on the 3’x5′ shower walls. Do you recommend both to use the same grout thickness? If I use 1/8, do I do sanded on the floor and unsanded on the walls?

    • Roger

      Hi Nick,

      If it’s the same tile it normally looks better with the same grout line size. I would use sanded on both the floor and walls.

  • Yolanda

    I have removed only the top layer of existing, brittle, dirty grout which had grout lines of 1/4″ all over our lounge, kitchen, hallway (big area). I didn’t really like those big grout lines but what can I do? Can I use epoxy grout to top up in order to level the grout to the tile (12×12″)? Will the grout become brittle in the long run? What sealer do I use afterwards? Please HELP!
    Thanks, Yolanda

    • Roger

      Hi Yolanda,

      You cannot use any type of grout over existing grout unless you remove the existing grout down to 2/3 the depth of the tile. Grout bonds to the sides of the tile – not the substrate (or grout) beneath it. You need to remove that much for the grout to bond and be stable enough to last. You can use epoxy in it – it will not become brittle. If you use epoxy grout you do not need to seal it, it’s built in.

  • virginia

    Hi! We are vutting and redoing our master bath with a shower that is approx. 60″ x 60,. We are tiling the bath floor eith 18″ sq. rectified limesrone tiles, and would like to put the same on the shower wall. Is this possible/advisable? Or the tiles can be cut into 9″ x 18″. Would this be better? Any special wall-back material necessary? Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Virginia,

      Yes, it is fine to have 18×18 tiles on the shower walls – why wouldn’t it be? Size doesn’t matter (with wall tile). :D

      As long as your shower is correctly waterproofed it will be fine. If you are unsure of, or don’t know anything about, proper shower substrate preparation you can download my free shower waterproofing manual here: Shower waterproofing manual. It will explain the different options available and how each works. Limestone can be installed over any of them.

      • virginia

        Thanks! We will have a professional installation by someone we know does excellent work so Im sure it will be properly prepared. My contractor, however, told me (in passing) that 9x12s or 12x12s would be better on the wall, so I wanted to find out if there would be any problems going with the 18x18s. I realize alot of this is just personal preference but do you think 9x18s installed vertically would make my low-ceiling shower look better/taller? Thanks!

        • Roger

          Yes, 9 x 18’s would make a low ceiling look taller. It’s a very cool look for an installation as well.

  • denita

    Hi Roger,
    I need help.I think I may have goofed.I have a contractor and I had him order emser tile for my kitchen(the Bombay Series)colors are Vasai 13×13 for floor and Thane 7×7 for the countertops.I had him order the same as the floor for my backsplash but didnt specify the tile size so I am sure I will end up with 13×13 for a backsplash(grr).I need to know will this look odd or bad,what color grout should I pick for each tile and how small grout line or is your preference I also had him order 13 of the 13×13 mosaic tile in the same series to mix in with the backsplash.Thanks for any help you can offer>>Helpless in Nashville :wink: .

    • Roger

      Hi Denita,

      Whether is looks odd or not is entirely up to what you think looks odd. I have installed hundreds of feet of tile I though looked odd but the homeowner loved it – it’s a personal choice. It’s much easier to change it now, although it will take some time, than to try to live with something every day that you don’t like.

      Same answer for the grout. :D I prefer a grout that matches the color of the tile and almost makes grout lines disappear, but some people like contrasting grout. The minimum allowable grout line size is dependent on how consistent your tile is. It needs to be three times the variance in tile sizes corner to corner.

      • denita

        Ahh but how do you think it would look?I value your opinion.Thanks,I just cant seem to picture how it would look in my head and havent been able to find any pics that could show me!I mean it would match the floor and it does come straight up behind the stove so it would be continuos 13×13,but then the countertops would be the 7×7. :oops:

        • Roger

          I think it would look goofy as hell. :D

          Normally larger tile on the horizontal planes and smaller on the vertical looks completely normal. The other way around would look funny. Probably the reason you can’t find any pictures of it, eh? :D

          • denita

            Is there a certain brand of grout you prefer for both porcelin (sp?) and ceramic?

            • Roger

              Hi Denita,

              I prefer Laticrete grouts. Mapei and C-cure are also grouts I use regularly, some people have problems with c-cure, I’m used to it but a lot of people don’t like it.

  • Dan

    Hi Roger,

    Need your opinion on how to lay out our wall tile. The side wall of our shower is 59″. We are installing 10X13 tile and plan to lay them so the 13″ side is horizontal. How should we deal with the extra 7″ (approx.)? Should we use 4 full tiles and one partial tile of about 7″ or should we use 4 full tiles and two smaller pieces?

    • Roger

      Hey Dan,

      Four full tiles and one partial (in the corner) always looks better than splitting your cut into two smaller ones.

  • Sam Tyia

    I have installed 18 by 18 inch porceline tile for my living room. A friend tells me the grout spacing is important for synthetic tiles for expansion for temperature changes and a minimum recommended is 1/8.
    What will happen if the grout space is less?
    Will the tiles crack?
    Thanks
    Sam

    • Roger

      Hi Sam,

      Grout spacing is important in ANY tile in that it needs to be large enough to compensate for inconsistencies in tile variation. The new TCNA recommendation is minimum 1/8″. If your tile can handle a smaller grout line you can use one.

      Grout spacing has absolutely nothing at all to do with expansion or thermal differences. Those need to be compensated for, but the grout lines do not do that – soft joints do that. The lack of a soft joint is one of the two main causes of failure in tile installations. That is what compensates for movement – not grout joint sizing.

      To determine how small a grout joint your tile can handle take nine of them and place them in a 3×3 square. Measure from one corner to the opposite, then from the other corner to the opposite. There will be a difference in size – a small difference. Multiply that difference by three and that will be the smallest grout line your tile can handle.

      If you go any smaller than that it will be very, very difficult to keep the tile lined up with a straight grout line or keep the installation square. It’s the difference in each individual tile which adds up over the length of the installation.

      And yes, if you do not have soft joints in your tile installation your tile will eventually crack.

  • Mark

    Roger,

    Help! We’ve are about to lay a 20″ x 20″ tile in a large room with a lot of light. The room is actually two rooms with a wide entry between them. The tile is greyish, semi-glossy and has that marble like appearance.

    I have to chose spacing, and I’m getting different opinions from everybody. 1/4 sounds way to large, right?

    3/16 is a possibility, no?

    If I go to 1/16, then it will looks like one continuos floor, which I don’t want, and sounds too risky, anyway.

    What do you recommend!

    Help, they start laying tile next week!

    Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hey Mark,

      I normally use a 1/8″ grout line for tile like that. It will separate the individual tiles and still be enough to compensate for any variation in the tiles.

  • Susan Avery

    Hi,

    My husband and I just built a large shower with 18″ tiles with lots of gold and beige patterns – sort of a Colorado look and we broke this up with 2 bands of torquise/beige tumbled stone close-set mosaic tiles. Now I want a monochromatic look with the grout and he wants a light colored grout which I think will look terrible. We are also using pebbles on the floor and smaller 4×4 bias tiles on the ceiling so there is a lot going on. Obvious grout lines would seem to make this room feel very busy. What is your experience with this type of shower. Right now (minus the grout) it looks really elegant. Thanks, Susan

    • Roger

      Hey Susan,

      It is absolutely a personal choice. I like the grout to blend into the installation as much as possible, but I’ve done it all ways you can think of. If there’s a lot going on adding a contrasting grout is going to intensify that.

  • Peter

    Hi Roger,

    I am renovating my 6’x9′ ensuite bathroom. I’ll remove the tub in favor of a tiled shower, plus remove the vinyl flooring in favor of more tile.

    The existing flooring is 5/8″ OSB over 16″ center joists (2″x10″ solid wood joists)… the house is 18 years old.

    Do I need to replace the 5/8″ OSB or can I tile right over it? I am planning to use the Kerdi system for the shower bed (30″ x 60″, center drain). Do I need to treat the flooring differently beneath the shower from what I do in the rest of the bathroom?

    If I replace the OSB with 3/4″ plywood, it’ll be tougher to meet the transition to hardwood (3/4″) which is already in place directly over the OSB in the adjacent bedroom. I’d prefer flush floors, but it’s more important not to have cracked grout/tiles.

    Regards,
    Peter

    • Roger

      Hey Peter,

      You can leave the osb but you’ll need to install another 1/2″ plywood over it for a minimum 1 1/8″ then if you go over it with ditra you should be able to keep the height difference to a minimum.

  • Karen

    You’ve discussed the tile-to-carpet transition (you suggest the schluter product). What do you suggest for a tile-to-wood transition? I will be putting in a floating wood floor in the bedroom and the master bath will have 12×12 tiles.

    • Roger

      Hi Karen,

      If you are using a floating wood floor most manufacturers make a ‘T’ molding which matches your particular finish. Those are normally the best option, although Schluter does have ‘T’ moldings as well. Depends on whether you want a brushed aluminum (or other metal finish) or a transition which matches your wood.

  • Tammy P

    I dislike grout of all names, shape and form. That being said, I’ve read your site and now know I must have a grout line, but want the minimal amount for my large 20×20 travertine look porcelain tile. However on the product tile board (Mohawk Mirador-has a crisp, flat edge) it states “for large format tile, minimum grout width 3/16”. I really wanted a smaller one, and use a similar grout color to minimize the grout lines and get a more uniform, single slab look. Probably having tile on the diagonal in large bathrooms.

    Does your rule of thumb (1/16-1/32) still apply, (i.e. is the manufacturer being on the cautious side) or do you have to go with what they say?

    • Roger

      Hi Tammy,

      The industry standard states 3/16″ minimum grout line for tile that size. That said you can likely get away with 1/8″ or even 1/16″ if you have well sized tile. By that I mean they are very consistent and that you have a very flat floor.

  • jeremy

    In your experience does the scale of a layout impact “ideal” grout line widths? We’re doing about 800 square feet. Wifey likes the 1/4″ from the small demo sheet at the home depot but your comments about the grid affect relative to the scale of the project would be appreciated. Thanks.

    • Roger

      Hey Jeremy,

      1/4″ grout lines are HUGE! With larger installations this will compound the grid effect. I would use a 1/8″ grout line for something like that. Take some of the tiles and lay them out with different sized grout lines and see which one she likes best – after you let here know that the grout lines are where most of the dirt and debris collects and they’re a pain in the ass to clean. :D

  • Issahaku SAlhassan Yawbi

    This article has been vey helpful, but the problem here in Ghana is that most of the tiles are not consistent in size making it difficult for us.Secondly it’s not easy to come by spacers.many tile installers don’t even know what spacers are or what a notched trowel is. Can I get any help here?

    • Roger

      Hi Issa… I’m gonna call you Issa, because I’m a lazy American. :D

      With inconsistently sized tiles (like the saltillo we do over here) it is best not to use spacers, it is best to grid the installation. Have you ever done that? Let me know and I can give you a crash course if needed. No notched trowels – I assume you’re wet-setting most installations? Or…?

      Let me know specifically what I can do for you and I’ll be more than happy to help.

  • Cliff

    13 x 20 kitchen, 7×7 utility room. Leaning towards Armstrong’s Alterna Luxury vinyl tile. Any history with this product? Utility room is off of the kitchen. I would like to continue the kitchen floor pattern through the doorway and into the utility room. Any preference about laying out the tile pattern on the kitchen / utility room floors? Straight row, offset, or set at a 45 degree angle to the main kitchen wall? 12×12’s or 16×16’s?

    • Roger

      Hey Cliff,

      I have done the LVT a couple of times – mostly the plank type. Everything you’ve asked is all strictly personal preference. Normally the larger looks better. If you offset it you’ll get a better lock on the tiles because you won’t have four corners together, but the LVT locks together well.

      • Cliff

        I guess my preference then, is a “running bond” / brick pattern. Our kitchen has sheet vinyl over chipboard. I can go either way, take it all up and replace it with 3/4 inch plywood or just put down 1/4″ plywood underlayment over everything. If I cover everything with new 1/4″ underlayment, what fastener do you prefer? I’ve just read where they are using 9/16″ or 7/8″ staples with heat-set glue on them rather than nails. Also, that screws can cause the thin plywood to buckle.

        • Roger

          I’m one that ALWAYS removes what’s currently in place. That said, with LVT you can go right over what you have if you want, deflection is not an issue. Don’t know why they would be using the glue and I’ve never seen screws buckle 1/4″ ply. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen, just means I’ve never seen it. A good underlayment stapler works very well for installations such as yours.

          • Cliff

            I agree with you, I will pull it all up, down to the car decking, and start fresh with 3/4″ ply. Since I will be doing a complete kitchen gut, that will not be a problem. I just don’t like to put new stuff over old stuff, whatever that may be. I’m a big fan of the Holmes on Homes show, even though he may not always show all of the time and labor that went into a final “fix”. “Take it all down” is the right way to go for most major remodel projects.
            ps, I found a product on the internet called “Pro Set Trap Guard” which allows you to retrofit a drain into the utility room floor. Any other suggestions on how I might install a floor drain though 2×6 car decking and 3/4″ ply? I do not want to tap into the iron pipe for the washing machine drain, just use pvc to run an emergency overflow drain into the garage.

            • Roger

              Nope, the Pro Set Trap Guard is your best bet. I’ve used it twice – works well for that.

              • Cliff

                By “buckling”, I quess they mean the dimple created when the screw is pushed into the plywood below the surface. Since I am going to lay down 3/4″ A/C Sanded Shop as a new underlayment for Luxury Vinyl Tiles, 7/8′ staples won’t do.
                1. Would you use 3″ and 2″ coated screws into the car decking?
                2. All screws and seams will then need to be covered to level the surface, right?

                • Roger

                  1. I would use 1 5/8″ decking screws. The 2″ will be fine. The 3″ is serious overkill.

                  2. Not necessarily. LVT is a very thick, very sturdy durable product. The hole from the top of the screw isn’t going to affect it at all. You can if you want, but I don’t think it’s necessary.

                  Please do me a favor and post any questions you have in response to either my answer to your last or beneath another of your questions to keep them all in the same thread. Just having this comment standing alone I had no idea what the hell you were talking about, then I gotta go find your thread, move it, etc. I have (literally) over 7,500 comments on this website – it’s difficult to keep track of everyone if it isn’t organized with some sort of reference. :D Thanks.

  • Sharon

    Roger: I will be having 13×13 inch procelain tile installed in two bathrooms. After this is done the old carpet will be removed and new carpeting installed throughout the house. Who should put in the strip in the doorways that transition from the tile to the carpet area – the tile installers or wait and have the carpet installers do it? Also, what do you recommend – a metal strip or something else?

    • Roger

      Hi Sharon,

      It honestly doesn’t matter too much, either way will work. I prefer to use schluter edge trims on all my tile before any carpet is installed (or when I am re-attaching carpet at the door). I do that because then I know that my tile is fully protected and I’m not leaving the look of the tile transition to the carpet guys – they do carpet, I do tile. With the schluter trims they can just tuck the carpet to it and I know it has a clean, protected transition.

  • Tim

    Thanks for the fountain of knowledge! I have read your website and watched a lot of videos online and am tackling kitchen floor tile this weekend (finished the backsplash and looks pretty good if I do say so). When I peeked under the linoleum last night as I was removing baseboards and quarter round I found that on top of the plywood is what appears to be a smooth thin veneer thin-set to the surface of the plywood.. Will this affect the backer board adversely or can I go right on top of it? Thanks in advance. I can’t imagine splintering this stuff up and scraping the thinset!

    • Roger

      Hey Tim,

      I’m gonna ruin your day. :D

      That thin layer is called luan – and it has no business anywhere near a tile installation at all. It needs to be removed. The problem lies in the stability of the product. Much of it has voids between the very thin layers which will cause problems beneath a tile installation. Sometimes it comes out in reasonable chunks, sometimes it doesn’t. Believe me, I’ve taken out miles of it. It is much easier to get all the luan out and pound the staples down into the subfloor than to try and take them all out.

    • Tim

      :bonk: GROAN! Thanks for the heads up. Will I need another layer before the backerboard once I pull up the luan? Also, last night I screwed a box of deck screws into this stuff. I suppose I will need to back them out partially (at least) to get the luan out or fully if I need another layer. :(

      • Roger

        Normally yes, but if your floor is currently stable then you will probably be fine. Tearing out the luan isn’t going to affect the strength of the floor one bit. And yup, screws will need to come out – sorry.

  • Eileen Pleasant

    What type of floor transition would you recommend —-bathroom tile to hallway carpet?

  • Toby

    Hello we have 6″x24″ porcelain tiles that have the wood look. Please let me know what size grout lines we should use to make it look like a real wood floor.

    Thank you

    • Roger

      Hey Toby,

      I would use 1/8″. The look is more dependent on which color grout you choose rather than the grout line size. Choose a grout that really matches the main surface color of the tile so the lines blend into the installation.

  • tweet

    i have a question…

    how do you change the grout color on a kitchen floor?

    thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Tweet,

      There are several brand of grout colorant which can be ‘painted’ over the current grout to change it to whatever color you like.

      • tweet

        do you know where to find the grout colorant? i checked at a store called lowes and they didnt have any thing like that :(

        thanks

        • Roger

          A store called Home Depot has it. :D You can also google ‘aquamix grout colorant’ and find a supplier near you.

  • Helaine

    purchased white carrera ‘look’ 12 x 12 porcelain tiles at home depot for a small basement bathroom. what grout size do you think i should choose? thank you!

    • Roger

      Hi Helaine,

      I normally like an 1/8″ grout line on floors and 1/16″ on walls. It really is whatever you prefer, I just think those look best.

  • Eileen Pleasant

    The floor space in my bathroom is 4’9″ x 4’3′. To make my bathroom appear larger, do I use 12 x 12 tile or 6 x 6 tile ? 

    • Roger

      Hey Eileen,

      12 x 12’s would make it look larger. Sounds counter-intuitive, but a smaller tile makes the room look too ‘stuffed’ and actually smaller.

      EDIT: FASTEST REPLY EVER!!! :D

      • Eileen Pleasant

        Thank you so much. I didn’t expect to receive a reply so fast. I love your web site.