The size of grout lines for tile is something that comes up on almost every tile installation. The secret no professional will tell you is there is really no set or absolute proper size for your grout lines. There are some guidelines that need to be followed but the actual size is more of a personal choice than it is a set width.
Grout line guidelines
Since grout line widths are generally a personal preference I’ll let you know what mine are. I separate most tiles into three different categories:
- Small format tile – Tiles up to and including 8 X 8 inches square.
- Regular – 12 X 12 up to 16 X 16 inches square.
- Large format tile – 18 X 18 inches and larger.
These are not technically official category names for tile sizes – it’s just what I call them. I’m weird like that.
Small format tile
A lot of smaller format tiles are self-spacing. That means that on either two or four sides of each tile there are what are called “lugs”. Lugged tile have small bumps or protrusions on the sides which are set directly against the tile next to it. Most of these tiles are made specifically for vertical applications, those are shower walls, backsplashes, etc., rather than floors.
The lugs on the tiles allow them to be stacked atop one another and keep the grout lines consistent throughout the installation. For tiles with lugs on only two sides of each tile you must make sure they are all stacked in the same direction, that the lugs are not butted against each other. Normally the lugs will create grout lines that are 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch.
For small format tiles that do not have lugs I will usually use 1/16″ spacers. Depending upon the texture and consistency of the tiles I may use 1/8″ spacers on occasion. For instance 8 inch slate tiles will usually look better with a slightly larger grout line.
If you prefer larger grout lines but have lugged tiles – don’t panic. You can still use spacers with the lugs. To ensure consistency you need to make sure that you either put the spacers between all the lugs or between the spaces the lugs are not. In other words do not put a spacer between the lugs on one tile and between spaces where there are not lugs on another. To figure out the size of your grout lines you also need to add the size of the lugs to the size of the spacer if you use the spacers between them.
Regular format
Regular format tiles are what I install on most of my jobs. More often than not I will use 1/16″ grout lines on vertical surfaces and 1/8″ lines on floors. I just think it looks better and as long as the tile is consistent enough, that’s what I’ll use. I will usually use the smallest grout line the tile will allow.
The best way to figure out how small you can go is to lay out nine tiles in a square and measure from corner to corner in both directions. If they are within 1/16 inch you can go that small with your grout lines. Some tiles such as slate and some quarry tiles will not be consistent enough to use a grout line that small. The largest grout line I will use is 3/16″ unless otherwise specified by the builder or customer.
Large format
Large format tiles are a bit tricky. These, more than either of the other two, are more dependent upon the tile itself. While most people will purchase larger format tiles specifically because they do not want a lot of grout lines, sometimes the tile will not allow it. Although this is rarely a problem, you need to be aware of it and make sure you check the tiles before you try to go with a very small grout line.
The easiest way to check larger format tiles is simply to measure corner to corner in each direction to ensure squareness. As long as they are the same in both directions, they’re square. Then measure several different tiles from different boxes. With a very good tile you should get exactly the same measurement every time. If that’s the case, you can use a 1/16″ grout line and not have any problems.
Large format tiles with 1/16″ or 1/32″ grout lines and a grout that matches the tile color closely looks great! If done correctly it will almost look like a single large slab of tile.
Which do you prefer?
As you can see there is really no absolute answer. If you like smaller grout lines, as long as the tile will allow it, use them. If you prefer larger, use larger. As a general rule do not go larger than 3/16″ although under certain circumstances such as some slates and quarry tiles, 1/4″ is acceptable.
If you choose to use smaller grout lines you must ensure the tile will allow it. If you don’t you may end up with lines that “jog”. That means the lines will not be perfectly straight and will jump over just a bit with every tile due to inconsistencies in tile sizes.
If you prefer larger grout lines you need to take into consideration the “grid effect”. If you do not use a grout that somewhat matches the tile color you may end up with an installation that looks more like a grid made of grout than tile with a grout accent. The smaller the tile, the more pronounced this effect may become.
No matter which you choose, you must make sure you use the correct type of grout. If your grout is chosen and installed correctly your good tile installation can turn into a great one. Make sure you consider your grout as much as you consider your tile. It can make or break your whole look.
Hi Roger,
I am building my own shower and your website has been very helpful. I have poured the slope and am getting ready to put in the shower liner, then put up a vapor barrier on the studs, then hang the concrete board(1/4in. off the liner) and then pour my actual shower floor and curb. Here’s my questions(finally!!) 1. should I seal the seams on the concrete board and with what? 2. do I fill the gap at the bottom of the board down to the liner?. 3. where the liner must be cut to go over the curb, can I use a piece of liner remnant and some kid of adhesive to fill that area? I’ve got about a hundred other questions that I’ll hold fro later, but I really do appreciate your help.
Thanks Trey
Hey Trey,
1. Fill the in-plane seams with thinset, go over it with alkali-resistent fiber mesh tape, then float it out with more thinset. Just like taping and mudding drywall, but with thinset.
2. The seam between the backer and the liner – no.
3. Yes you can, but you must use the adhesive that matches your liner material. PVC or CPE – make sure it’s the same, the other way around won’t work – just trust me on that one.
Roger- I am getting ready to tile both of my bathrooms with a 12×12 tile. One bath room is 5.5′ x5.5′ and the other is 7’x5.5is do I absolutely need aground line, i was thinking aboUt butting the tiles next to one another?
Hi Matt,
Yes, you absolutely need grout. Every part of a structure moved, every part. When stresses due to this movement build up they need to release. The nature of physics dictate that it must release at the weakest spot of the structure. That will end up being your tile, and it will crack. Read through this for further explanation: Can I install tile without grout lines?
Roger – I forgot a significant fact. When my girlfriend first spoke with the contractor about
the grout width he said he used a 3/16″spacer. Assuming he’s telling the truth, does it make
sense for the actual grout widths to be 7/32 and 1/4? Thanks!
Nope.
Shortest. Answer. Ever.
Roger – I just saw your website, and it’s very helpful. My girlfriend had kitchen tile installed, 12″ square. Written specifications called for 3/16″ spacing. She is unhappy with the width as installed and she measured. None are 3/16. Going one direction most are 7/32, the other direction most are 1/4. We’re going to meet with the tile installer tomorrow. Several questions. First, is it accurate to measure the grout itself to determine the spacing? I.e., should a 3/16 spacing have a 3/16 grout width? I would think so, but I don’t know anything about tile. Second, is there an accepted variance or fudge factor? Finally, do you think she is justified in being upset? The deviation is not really a lot on an absolute scale, but it is siginificant on a proportional basis. I guess more importantly, it looks bad to her. Your thoughts would be very appreciated. Thanks!
Hey Brian,
Yes, it is acceptable to measure the grout to determine the grout line size. And yes, there is an acceptable variation, it depends on the sizing of your particular tile. More pointedly, it depends on the consistency in size from tile to tile. The variation will be 1/2 of the (average) variation in the tile size. The short version is that the 7/32″ is acceptable normally, the 1/4″ is not. The tiles were likely installed to end up with full tiles all the way around – are there full tiles around the perimeter? 1/4″ is HUGE. If the written specifications call for 3/16″, 1/4″ is unacceptable, so yes, she is justified in being upset.
And if your next question is how to fix it – the only way is to remove it and start over.
i am building a raised platform for my wifes new free standind fire place hwo do i compute the size it should be to have tiles come out even. considering t shape 18 inches by 6foot across the back with 3 foot by 3 foot front
Hi Jim,
The only sure way is to take the actual tiles and lay them out on the garage floor with the spacers you’ll be using and get exact measurement. Every tile varies so that is the only real way to get it perfect if you don’t want to cut tile. Be sure to substract the thickness of the tile from your top measurement so the face of the vertical pieces will sit flush with the edge of the horizontal pieces.
on friday my tile guy called and said he was done with the tile job , But I asked how that could be when I was there a couple of hours ago you were still laying it . He said he always lays it then grouts it was only the last 2 rows . I said no way the bag said you must let it dry for at least 12 hours . So now could you tell me what will happen in the future
with this tile ????? thanks
Hi Debbie,
You actually can set and grout the same day. Thinset does not require air to dry in any great capacity, it cures through a chemical process called hydration. The 12 hour recommendation on the bag is likely for traffic – the ability to walk on the tile after it is set. As long as it was set and grouted correctly it will be fine.
i have an old cadillac and decided i wanted to tile it with various sizes and colors of tile. is there any way to properly adhere and cut the tile pieces so that the vibration of the car driving will not have tiles fall off as often as it is currently happening. i have used several industrial grade adhesives to adhere the tile, but i am having problems with finding the correct grout for this outdoor application. it seems that i need a specialized grout that can handle the weather and car body flexing and vibration. do you know of any products that can help me. i want to be the only guy around with a fully tiled cadillac……………….
thanks roger, you are the best
Hi Maxar,
The only thing I can think of is tile epoxy such as Laticrete 310 and stick it to bare metal rather than the painted finish. The most flexible grout you’re likely to find is a urethane-based. These will take up to seven days to cure but they will give you the most flexibility – although it may not be enough for that application. It’s worth a try.
Hey – can you send me a picture of that thing? I’d love to see it.
I have about 1 inch of grout between my bathroom wall tiles and the edge of the tub. Its an condo apartment building and I get periodic complains of leaks from my downstairs neighbor, when that happens I would replace the caulk along the edge. Is there a way to permanently take care of the problem besides tearing the wall down and tiling it properly? And are you planning to have a location in NYC anytime soon? Thanks!
Hey Lucy,
Nothing short of tearing it out and doing it properly will solve the problem. Silicone will last longer than regular caulk. Keep in mind that when it comes to shower leaks the damage you can not see is ALWAYS worse than the damage you can. So if it is leaking into the apartment below you likely have a significant amount of moisture built up in that wall cavity – that is a perfect breeding ground for mold and all sorts of nasty stuff. Even using silicone is not going to stop water from getting back there – tile and grout are not waterproof. The only correct solution is replacing it with a properly waterproofed shower. But you already knew that.
The only location I plan on having in NYC is the occupation of a bar stool somewhere for a little while. Work isn’t in the plans. Sorry.
Roger, I want to tile behind the stove the space is 30W x 24L. However the 30″ is actually 29 7/8 becaue of cabinet molding. If I take the molding off the width would be
30 3/8. Here’s another rub, my wife had been collecting tile. She also choose another tile she wants incorperated with the collected tile, however they are slightly different sizes. They’re 4″ tiles and the accent ones are slightly larger about 1/16 and they have nubs. The ones she collected don’t have nubs. Should I use border tiles? This is my first tile job.
Hi Franco,
I would get some larger tiles like 12×12’s, create your pattern on a table as close to 24×18 as you can get, then rip down the 12×12’s to fill in the remainder to the exact size you need. They should be around 3″ wide strips all the way around your pattern, give or take.
Yes, I am asking more questions than usual. That’s because the day of reckoning, Oct. 3rd, the day it starts hopefully, is getting closer. Remember how I said I have a border of glass tiles(2 rows of liners that are 1/2″ x 6″, below that will have glass tiles that are 2″x4″ and then the ceremic tiles, 13×13). I called the manufacturer of the ceremic tiles and they aren’t rectified, recommended grout lines of 3/16″ and the glass manufacturer recommended 1/8. Also have a few scattered diamond shaped glass tiles(cutting them out into 2×2 size) with the mesh behind them which have a built in grout line of 1/8″. Roger, 1/8 seems gigantic for the glass tiles(the ones without the mesh). I would think they should all be the same dimensions since they are glass or no? They seem to be very, very close. I think the ceremic tile people are loony with that 3/16 recommendation. I have a whole test wall down on the floor and they do seem to line up very well even though they aren’t rectified and I bought wayyyyyyyyyyyy too much so can just open box after box to get ones that line up well, no? What do you think? Can’t I go with 1/16 for the glass and 1/8 for the ceremic? Do you think there is too great of a chance that I will end up with goofy looking grout lines? Hopefully the new tile guy will end up using epoxy grout. That is still undecided. Yes, I know, you keep telling me to go along with the manufacturer’s recommendations, but I also know you don’t always. Just asking what you think.
Thanks,
Ceci
A little off topic, but I wasn’t sure where to post. I’m getting ready to tile our shower. I did all the pre-slope, slope mud work, and the tile for the floor is ready (Thanks for your help with that), my question is about the walls. For the bottom 5 feet I will be using 12″x12″ tiles set at a 45 degree angle. My shower is made up of 4 walls, about 4 feet each wide, with one corner cut out at an angle for the door.
When transitioning from one wall to the other, should the grout lines all line up across all walls? I would think the answer is yes, but I think that could (I haven’t totally laid it out yet) prove to have some little prices in the corner depending on the width of each wall.
I guess for simplicity, would I just basically lay all walls out together “flat”, and then “fold” at each corner.
Hey Brent,
Your ‘lay it out flat and fold at the corners’ description is accurate. If you end up with small pieces at a corner you can move the layout over by 1/4 the width of the tile (corner to corner). That will usually eliminate the smaller pieces and prevent the movement from creating them in another corner.
Hi Roger,
I’m not sure this is a right question for you but we just purchased our first house, and we are doing the kitchen backsplash and kitchen tile. For backsplash, our gallery kitchen has just 2 cabinets door on one side; the estimate guy just measured the other(long) side only. Is it normal to do one side or both sides? Also, our kitchen cabinets are made out of cherry wood on dark orange wall color. Which color works better for the kitchen tile? I cannot decide! Please help. Thank you.
Hey Keiko,
I have always done both sides, not sure why he only did one. Did you ask him about it? He may have simply forgotten it or not noticed it. (That happens – really
) I would be inclined to go with either a very dark-black tile, glass, or a rust-colored tile, although the rust may be a bit too much orange when it’s all said and done. Beyond that – it’s really about what you like, your contractor isn’t gonna wake up and look at it every morning – you will. 
Actually, I asked him about it yesterday. He goes “Oh, do you want to do this side too?” And he also told me that because of our backsplash area rather narrow so that I cannot have a decorative piece so I’ve decided to not to go with this guy for backsplash. Also he said the ivory color stone I picked doesn’t come with smaller than 6″x6″ which is hard for me to believe.
Thank you very much for your suggestion regarding the tile color as nobody else helped me out on this. Everyone said pick the color you like; I understand but I want my kitchen to be looked good, and usually professional like yourself eyes much better than mine!
Thanks again, Roger! This is a great site.
Awesome site! Super helpful. I’m putting in a border when I tile my bathroom and we’d like the look of naturally shaped (not square, rectangular, etc) pieces of tile in the border. Unfortunately we were unable to find a premade border with the colors we wanted so I’ve been experimenting making the pieces myself with a tile saw and I like the effect I’ve created. Any tips on the best way of mounting these to the wall? In total I will have about 30 feet of border in that bathroom. I’m hoping to avoid having any large gaps of grout so it’s probably going to be very tedious work shaping the pieces.
Also should the grout lines between the main tile and the boarder match the width of the rest of the grout lines? In my case the boarder grout line can’t be super thin consistently because the pieces won’t be rectangular but I think I’d still like to do the rest of the grout lines 1/16″ if that won’t look odd together.
hopefully I didn’t lose you
Hey Brad,
It will be tedious. It’s just like putting together ten jigsaw puzzles that have been thrown into the same box.
Get some self-adhesive mesh tape (drywall section) and cut it to the width you want your liner. You can set it onto the bench sticky side up and put together one of two lineal feet at a time and the tape will hold it together until you get it on the wall. You can either do it so the tape is on the face of the tile (you can also do that with contact paper) and peel it off after the thinset is cured or you can put the tape on the back of the tiles and install it right into the thinset on the wall once you get it together.
The grout lines can be whatever size you think looks good. I think consistent grout lines look good, others think a different size in a liner looks better. Completely a personal choice.
Several months ago, my landlord had a handiman come in to repair my shower tiles that were pulling away from the drainpan and the wall. He replaced the backerboard with a cement product, cleaned up the mold and replaced the tiles. The problem is that he didn’t wipe the grout very well and it doesn’t look like it is just seated between the tiles. There appears to be a straight application of grout that thins out on the tiles. The problem is that this is cracking away from the tiles again and water is getting in there. Am I wrong in thinking the grout should have had a sponge run along the grout line to “seat” it in between the tiles.
Hey Pat,
That is simply improper grouting. You are correct, a sponge should be used to ‘tool’ the grout into the lines and cleaned off the entire face of the tile. Provided your shower was correctly waterproofed (questionable with what you’ve described) it isn’t going to affect water getting behind the tile. Doing it properly won’t affect it either – grout has nothing to do with waterproofing.
Perhaps the most lucid discussion of grout line spacing I have found yet. Keep up all the good efforts. I am finding your stuff invaluable.
Thanks Ted, I am rarely referred to as lucid. Strange, I know…
Just have a question. Can I put a pattern with ceramic tile on the floor that has about 2 to 3 inch spaces between the tiles? Can I grout that, or do i need to use something else to fill in between the spaces between the broken pieces of tile in the pattern. for example The broken pieces are in a circle and spaced about 3 inch’s apart from each other…
Hey Philip,
You can, but I really wouldn’t recommend it. That large of a grout line is extremely likely to crack out eventually. Grout is made for traffic and high-wear areas, but only in a 1/2″ space at the very largest. One that large won’t last long-term. If you really want to keep the look of it and use grout in that space then you should go with epoxy grout. It will last but it’s likely to get pretty spendy before you’re done.
hello
i sealed my grout this morning and am at work for the next 6 hours. i was wondering if the sealer got on the tile and i didnt wipe it off if it would ruin my tile. i plan to wipe it as son as i get home in 6 hours.
thanks
Hey Tweet,
I assume you’re already home.
The sealer won’t harm your tile. If you do have areas where you did not get wiped off enough you can always wet a towel with a little more sealer and buff over it to remove it.
ok thank you very much for your help. i am going to leave my tile the way it is and hope for the best
ok thanks. is there any chance that the gout line will deteriate over time due to the large size of them? i am worried that i will have to re grout numerous times over the years because the size is large.
Not unless you’re sandblasting it out of there.
If the shower head is hitting one spot consistently then yes, eventually it will begin to wash it out over time (couple of years). Short of direct, consistent spray on one spot it will be fine.
hey
i am in the process of doing my tub surround in tile. i have a boarder in the middle of the surround that is 6’12. my tile around the border is 6’6. the boarder has a mesh backing i cut the mesh backing thinking it would look better so the grout lines would be close to normal. the horizontal line between each boarder tile is larger than 1/4 is this ok?
Hey Tweet,
Those are huge. If you think it looks okay, though, then it’s okay. You will absolutely need to use sanded grout for them so it doesn’t shrink out of those grout lines. The size of grout lines is mostly a personal choice, if you’re good with it then it’s fine. It’s simply a matter of packing the grout in there enough to get them filled.
Hi Rodger,
We hired a guy to tile two large rooms. We have 20×20 tiles with 1/8 grout lines. He grouted the back room today and when I look accross the floor I can see several areas or tiles that look raised and not smooth with the other. When I run my fingers across one my fingers get caught on the edge of the tile. Is this normal? How can we fix the room that is already grouted? How can we make sure that this won’t happen to the front room too, before he grouts?
Thanks for any advise,
Pelusa_ucf
Hey Pelusa-ucf (if that is your real name),
What you have is called lippage. Unfortunately it is normal – but it is not proper. There is an acceptable amount of lippage allowed by standards depending on tile size, pattern, etc. but it’s around the height of the edge of a dime. What you’ve described sounds like more than that. The only way to fix the room that is grouted, or the room that isn’t grouted, is to take it out and reinstall it without lippage. This has nothing to do with the grout – it is done while the tile itself is being installed. Read through this and it may help explain it a bit better. Install flat tile
Hi Roger, I tiled my first shower, I have not grouted it yet, the problem is I did not leave a 1/8 grout line on a couple of tiles in the corners, what should I do.
Panic!
Just kidding.
As long as you have a gap there that can be filled with silicone (not grouted!) and the tiles aren’t jammed against the tiles on the other wall then you’ll be fine. They don’t ‘technically’ need to be 1/8″, I actually leave all mine at about 1/16″. As long as they aren’t touching and you can fill an expansion space with silicone you’ll be fine.
Well technically I have a couple of tiles that are as you say you jammed against the tiles on the other wall, now what should I do Master Yoda?, I mean Master Elf
Hey Mark,
You need to have some space there to compensate for movement. You need to either get a grinder with a diamond blade and cut them back a bit (I would not recommend that unless you are extremely comfortable using said tool) or remove those tiles, cut them down if they are in one piece or cut new pieces to the correct width, and reinstall them with proper spacing. If the wall against which they are jammed begins to expand (completely normal) and pushes against those tiles it will eventually crack at least the grout, and possibly the tiles. So yes, it is necessary.
Sorry.
Hi Roger
How about laying vitrified polished tiles without grout?? Is it a good idea?? The size of the tile is 1m X 1m. Variation in size is less than 0.1% and variation in rectangularity and straightness of sides is less than 0.2% as per the manufacturer.
I would really like if the tiles are laid without grout as it gives a more natural look. But if it is not practical, then i guess i don’t have any choice.
Also if you think grout is must, what is the minimum width that i can go by.
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Arush
Hi Arush,
That is a huge tile. The specs you’ve stated may be what the manufacturer has stated but I find it a bit difficult to swallow. Doesn’t mean it isn’t true, just highly improbable. Regardless, there is one factor you haven’t provided – probably because the manufacturer has not (and probably will not) – that is how flat the tiles are. They may have that small of a variation in the squareness (rectangularity) and straightness but how much does each individual tile cup? With larger format tiles they will actually be a bit convex, which means they are curved a bit upwards, both due to the sheer size the baking process will always warp tile to a degree and some are done this way on purpose for stability and strengthening reasons.
I honestly don’t think it is very practical. It will initially look really good, but eventually something (even grains of sand) will make its way between the tile. The inevitable movements in the substrate will cause problems down the road. Granted, it may be years down the road, but problems nonetheless. I would find a grout that almost exactly matches the surface color of your tile. I may even go with epoxy for that application. You will be much happier down the road. You should be able to go with a 1/16″ grout line, perhaps even smaller if they are indeed that straight and you have a perfectly flat substrate.
Hi again
Thanks for your advice. I really appreciate it.
The manufacturer has mentioned Surface Flatness to be within +/-0.2%
Thermal Expansion </=7 x 10^-6/degree C
They have included all this information in the bill, so i guess it must be true to a large extent. I also conveyed your concerns to the dealer and he said that these tiles are sold as premium grade. The tiles which don't meet these criteria are sold off as grade 2 at a much lower price.
Why i am so keen on not using grout is because the tiles have a linear pattern which if matched by laying them without groove would look really beautiful almost like Italian marble. Thats why i opted for the huge size.
Usually 10 years is time for renovation of the house, so i guess as long as they hold till then, i don't mind.
Also another question – what sort of skirting do you think i should use?? 4" is recommended by my architect. Its beige color tile so either I can either use the same tile or a darker one to give contrast.
Again your valuable advice is much appreciated.
Regards
Arash
Hey Arush,
Well, whatever the manufacturer states has to be (legally) correct. I am still of the opinion that tile should not be installed without grout. With that said it is your tile – you can install it however you wish. If you choose to do it without grout you should be absolutely adamant about cleaning it daily to limit the amount of debris which will get between the tiles.
I always like the look of a contrasting base around a lighter tile – especially with large tiles. I think it looks really good.
Much appreciated. Thanks for the advice.
I will talk to my architect and contractor about what you have said.
I will see if i can put up some pictures once it is done.
Thanks again.
Regards
Arush
I have a tile setter just finish a shower and the grout lines are supposed to be 1/8″. By his admission, there was a miscalculation and a vertical grout line is 1/4″ at the bottom and almost 1/2″ at the top. It is located right next to the bull nose. Obviously, the wall is not square. This grout line is the first thing you see when you look at the shower. They are telling me pulling it down will damage the cement board too much and really is best to just leave it. I think it looks hideous, but I can’t get these men to understand it is not right to leave it. Do you agree? They are wanting me to put in a framed shower door to cover most of it (not the top 8-12 inches) but I wanted to get a frameless shower door. My husband is not taking a stand… not any help. He doesn’t like problems… I wanted a nice shower.
Thanks so much for any help or advice you could pass my way.
Judy Schiimek
Note: I tiled a bathroom floor by myself years ago and knew this was a bigger job than what I could handle which is why I looked for and hired what was supposed to be the best.
Hi Judy, now you’ve gone and gotten me all worked up!
I’ll attempt to be civil about it…
Let’s look at the facts:
1) By the installers own admission there was a *miscalculation* – let me translate that for you – “I screwed up” It’s really that simple.
2) I see a square wall in one out of about every 30 showers or so that I do not frame myself (in which case it’s about one in a hundred…
) That is no excuse for poor workmanship!
3) The grout lines throughout your shower are inconsistent – period. This in itself is an unacceptable installation – whether the inconsistencies are at the top and bottom or not.
4) Tearing it down to do it PROPERLY may or may not damage the cement board enough to warrant replacement – tough shit – not your problem. (so much for being civil about it!)
The bottom line is this – YOU ARE NOT HAPPY WITH THE INSTALLATION! That’s it. It is not your contractor’s place to tell you what type of shower door to install in your shower (the one YOU use every day) because he is inept at his *profession* – I placed asterisks around that because that word would imply professionalism – something this person apparently lacks. Your contractor screwed up – that’s it. It doesn’t matter if he thinks it’s acceptable or not – you’re the one writing the check, correct? It’s your shower, correct? They think it would be best to leave it???? I’m absolutely certain they do think that – and it’s bullshit! Tell them to fix it or pay you to have someone else do it correctly – that is it. Your shower, your dollar, your rules.
As for your husband… I don’t get into marital affairs.
You are wonderful! Thank you so much for your help!
Hey, hurry up with that e-book. : ) Better detail in your descriptions than I’ve found anywhere else, but your posts about creating a shower floor have stopped at the liner and I now have numerous questions about the remainder above it. Am I adding lath to the floor and curb surface above the liner for a thin set bed? Etc., etc. Thanks, a lot, for your guidance. Anxiously awaiting more,
jpb