There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:
- Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded)
- Sanded
- Epoxy
Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?
Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout
Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16″. Unsanded grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.
Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall, because it is “stickier” than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for which you are using it is correct.
Sanded Grout
Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8″ and wider. Although the specifications state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8″, you really should use sanded for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage. No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.
Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it cures. That’s why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile installations.
If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine, you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy which would be a better choice anyway.
Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and stain resistant.
Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.
To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The cold air will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well, frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. This essentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you don’t have to rush through it.
Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble that’s important. Be sure to test first anyway!
Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I ever use is SpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxy grout (at least any I’ve ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please don’t take that to mean the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink (Don’t do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.
The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.
Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout, chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.
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Hey Roger,
Still working on this bathroom. I used Durock Tile Membrane in the shower, Detra on the floor. The Durock website says to use Latex modified (ANSI 118.7) grout, the Detra website says to use ANSI 118.6. I found the grout coler I want in the ANSI 118.6 (Polyblend Sanded), but haven’t found ANSI 118.7. Because I really don’t understand the difference, I was hoping you could fill me in. Thanks for your help.
Hey Scott,
With very, very few exceptions (durock and ditra NOT being one) the type of grout you use has nothing at all to do with the substrate or membrane you’ve used. You can use any type of grout you want in your situation – the 118.6 will be just fine.
For future reference, and in case this will confuse anyone, the 118.6 is the ANSI standard for regular cementious grout. The 118.7 is the standard for polymer modified cementious grout. It is currently a gray area – most grouts now contain some sort of powdered polymer or modification even if they may not be classified technically (on the bag) as a 118.7 grout.
Thanks for the clarification.
HI Roger… I am currently laying a groutable vinyl stick down tile by Trafficmaster. The grout that is recommended by HD is a non-sand urethane grout. I have used it, and so far it is fine. My issue is that the new tile does not have a decent colored co-ordinating grout in this product. I have found an epoxy grout by the same company that would work. Do you know if there are issues with going this route with vinyl. The epoxy and the tile color are very close, so staining shouldnt be a big issue. Tile is going in the front entry and in a bathroom
Thanks
Hey Gilliam,
I have no idea of the ramifications, if any, of using epoxy grout on the vinyl. I do know that if there is a paper backing on the vinyl the liquid will leech into it and may stain it. I don’t know if you have that or not. I would call both the vinyl and grout manufacturer and ask them.
Thanks Roger… I will see what I can find out…:)
hello roger:)
first i wanted to thank you for having such an informative and entertaining website:) it is absolutely wonderful to know that there is someone out there willing to help those of us that are trying to do things ourselves;) emphasis on trying:)
there is so much information out there in regards to tiling that i am throughly confused .. which is bad because we are half-way through a very slow moving project:) i was wondering if you could give your input as well as answer a few questions before we go any further .. lend your expertise:)
we are absolutely not professionals of any sort. we like to rip things apart in our house and then try to put them back together:) we learn as we go .. that being said .. we have done a tile backsplash, countertop, floor, and shower surround .. learning from our mistakes each time. we sold that house a few years back; forgot everything we learned and are now attempting to screw up this one:) haha.
i’ll start with where we are at now: we have a rather small bathroom 7 x 11 foot. we tore out a fiberglass bathtub surround and are replacing it with a single stall shower. we ripped up the old vinyl floor, replaced some plywood that was water damaged, 3 layers of plywood total; installed ditra with modified mortar onto the plywood, and recently placed 12 x 24 porcelain tile with unmodified mortar on top of the ditra. we also used the kerdi shower system and tray.
that being said.. here starts my concerns;) concern #1. was told by the tile guy: use modified mortar under the ditra onto the plywood subfloor, under the kerdi tray onto the plywood subfloor, unmodified everywhere else. with the “debate” on whether or not to use modified vs unmodified i started to do some research as well as read the kerdi manual .. at that point i figured i would email schluter to be sure. he said everything is right except for use unmodified under the shower tray. reading the specs on the unmodified uncoupling mortar.. i am not sure if this was correct .. at this point we are not going to tear it out .. so i just want peace of mind – hopefully you can give that to me:)
concern #2 – again with the mortar – reading everywhere to use a certain mid-set mortar to use with large porcelain tiles.. schluter says only use unmodified on top of their products … we used the uncoupling mat mortar because of the warranty issue .. hoping that is ok:)
concern #3.. i used a 1/2 x 1/2 inch trowel.. what was recommended for a tile that big.. i know now i did some things wrong .. and was wondering how the structure will be affected by what i screwed up:) i remembered using a rubber mallet to place some of the tiles in our old house .. so i did just that .. i definitely was using more force than i should have because i had mortar coming up in between the tiles. i also back-buttered – because of the size of the tile. in addition .. when i ended up close to the shower i was off about 1/4 of an inch .. by this point i was tired and very frustrated because those tiles are very awkward to move around and i didn’t really have a system … i figured i would have to go back to everything i did and move it a bit .. my mom was there watching the kids and wanted to help .. there was no stopping her .. she hopped up on the tiles in question and moved them with her feet …. lots and lots of mortar squeezed out of course. it actually helped as far as getting the tile lined up. the act – it is done .. nothing i can do at this point .. but am wondering .. are they going to pop up eventually? did that break the good bond? or does it really only affect the levelness of the tille and the amount of mortar we have to clean up? i can live with a small amount of tile lippage – i was able to move them around and “adjust” them with my mallet – that i probably should not have been using:) i can barely feel it with my finger and have read that sanded grout can help lippage a bit.. but is it structurally sound ?.. please don’t tell me i have to pry all of tile up and start over .. please;)
concern #4 .. grout .. tile guy sold us on quartz loc 2 grout.. very attractive flexible grout. getting on forums to attempt to get more information i read alot of horror stories on how it falls out later, etc. i ahve come to the conclusion that that is almost all with quartz lock 1.. and also with the installation process. from what i understand .. the mortar has to be absolutely cured .. no moisture whatsoever.. only a very lightly damp songe to clean it up.. cannot leave any water anywhere .. and very long times to dry. 7 to 10 days before any water can be introduced .. and i remember reading somewhere 22 or 28 days to cure fully.. that being said i am very nervous to use this stuff. i am in no way a professional .. looking at their you tube video .. it looks easy enough to install .. but i tend to screw things up. epoxy grout scares me .. i can see myself REALLY screwing that up. so my husband and i were talking .. we would like the toilet to be installed sooner than later .. so we were thinking of using regular cement grout on the floor so that we can install the toilet .. and use the urethane for the shower .. we can wait the 10- days for that. sooooo .. tonight will be 48 hours that the mortar – uncoupling mortar – has dried .. can we place cement grout tonight or should we give it more time… also .. do you recommend a brand over another ? we were going to use laticrete brand .. and went to lowes .. all been replaced with TEC brand?? the only other kind they had was the spectra loc epoxy and again .. i do not feel i am skilled enough to attempt that. on that same note – we are planning on using the quartz lock on the shower walls and floor – 8 x 12 wall tiles, granite pebble floor .. placed the kerdi about 2 weeks ago (our schedules are conflicting along with children are making this a very, very long and drawn out reno
.. after putting up the tiles – how much time do you recommend before using the quartzlock? i know the mortar says you can grout in 24 hours .. but again .. i know this stuff is different and i do not want it to fall out:) and just to be clear .. after using the grout .. 7 days before we can take a shower? or should we just wait the full 22 or 28 days (can’t remember off hand:) for the full cure?
and just for the heck of it .. a very basic question .. when you place the tile … lightly tap on it with a mallet? or just wiggle it slightly to seat it into the mortar? i know my hand was too heavy on the floor but would like to not screw up the shower walls also:)
ok .. so sorry this is so long .. but i have been reading too much information and i just am figuring we have done everything wrong .. i need some piece of mind before we can move on:) thanks so much for any help or guidance you can give!!! SO much appreciated;)
Hi Dana,
1. Your modified mortar beneath the pan will be just fine.
2. The uncoupling mat mortar is just fine as well.
3. You DO NOT have to take all that tile up. Unless she went in there seven or eight hours after you finished and started moving the tiles around it did not break the bond. They’ll be fine.
4. Quartzlock2 is good stuff. They did have problems with quartzlock1, but it seems they’ve gotten them all worked out. There is a 7-10 day wait for water introduction into the system, but once cured it does what they say it does. Don’t know anything about the 22 day thing – never had to wait that long for anything. A 28 day wait is the cure time for a FULLY cured cement-based product, so that’s where you likely ran across that. But Urethane grout has no cement in it. So one thing has nothing to do with the other.
*That does not mean you need to wait 28 days for regular grout or thinsets to fully cure before use – that’s just when they reach full strength.
Tec is a decent grout – using sanded tec grout in the floor will be fine. You can install the grout in the shower after 24 hours like the thinset manufacturer says – urethane doesn’t change that.
I don’t use a mallet, but it won’t hurt anything while you’re installing as long as you don’t bust the tile. Nothing wrong with using one, I just don’t. It’s simply a different installation technique. If you want to use it that’s fine, it’ll help with getting a good bond.
If you were trying to win the longest question ever award, you didn’t make it. Yours was about half. Valiant effort, though.
THANK you:) i can now sleep tonight
thanks so much for the quick response .. if ya haven’t noticed i worry about everything! 
thanks so much for the help!! now at least i know it will last for a few months – hehe:) have a great day!! 
Hi Roger
My husband and I are tiling our shower with 12X12 onyx. We made the grout lines 3/16 inch. I understand now that this was wrong. The tiles are polished and I assume we should not use sanded grout. What kind of grout would you suggest so we will have no shrinking? Thank you so much!
Hi Sharon,
You can use urethane or epoxy grout. Those are about your only two viable options at this point. Either one will work fine.
Thank you Roger. From what I am reading, epoxy grout seems too complicated for us first time tilers. Is urethane easier to find and apply? Should we seal the onyx before grouting? Thank you for your time and expertise!
Hi Sharon,
I don’t know that it’s easier to find, but it is easier to use. No need to seal onyx before grouting if it is polished onyx. If it’s tumbled onyx then yes, seal it first.
Do you have any experience with urethane grout? I’m planning to use it in my master bath and bedroom (tiling floors throughout, 400ish sq ft).
Hi Lori,
Yes. Whaddya wanna know?
My best advice is to only do about 6-10 square feet at a time, then clean it up. DO NOT get too far ahead before you clean it up. It’s good stuff. Just make sure you wait the required amount of time before water exposure or foot traffic. (It’ll say how long on the bucket.)
when installing polished tile in our bathroom should the grout be slightly below the tiles or flush? We have used un-sanded grout do to the small lines and polished surface.
Hi Harold,
Grout should ideally be just slightly below the face of the tile. If level with the face it looks better initially but the very edges of the grout at the top where they meet the face of the tile are not very sturdy and normally end up chipped or dinged in some manner.
Hi Roger,
A friend of mine suggested that I allow the sealer to dry, then just before applying the grout wet the travertine tiles. Doing this will make the grout clean up much easier. Do you normally wet the tiles before applying the grout?
thanks
Joe
Hi Joe,
Absolutely not. When grouting you don’t want to use any more water than necessary – it weakens the grout and leads to efflorescence. You certainly don’t want water on the surface of the tile – it will pull extra water into the grout lines with the grout causing it to shrink excessively while curing. If you have a natural porous stone which absorbs water you can sponge it down so the tile is saturated but the surface is dry but since you’ve sealed it your tile, stone or not, will not benefit from that.
I have a question, I have installed 4″ Travertine tiles on my kitchen backsplash that are very porous they have a lot of small texture hole in them which looks very natural and nice but isn’t the grout going to fill all the holes when I apply it to the grout lines?
Hi David,
Yes, grout will fill the small pits in the travertine. It’s supposed to. Look at it this way: would you rather have those tiny pits and holes filled with grout or spaghetti sauce? Only one of ‘em is going to be sanitary.
Which one??
gativll
Depends on how good your spaghetti sauce is.
Hello Roger,
it’s Steve again, the one that had trouble with the hardie backer. It’s been a while and I hope all has been well with you. I finally finished re-fabricating all my granite and got it installed, it looks terrific. A lot of work but worth every bit of it. I do plan on using spectra lock as you have recommended. What is the largest amount of area you suggest I do at one time, I don’t want a problem mess :-). Approximately what kind of working time can I expect with this product? You have also suggested putting half in the freezer to extend its use, is it possible to leave it in the freezer too long, what is the max time you recommend? I had used the absolute black granite tiles. You recommend sealing the tiles before grouting, correct? I also do not remember the sealer you recommended for the absolute black granite. I have used the Flex Bond for my thinset, how much time do you recommend before sealing and again for grouting? More than 24 hours?
I also have some information that I’d like to pass on to you. Do you ever get into bonding/laminating granites and natural stone. If so, the product is called “total edge system” from a company called Bonstone. http://www.bonstone.com . They have some amazing products. They say this epoxy is stronger than the granite itself, I can attest that they are correct. I actually broke and shattered the granite before I could break the epoxy bond. I just thought I would pass this information on to you, I hope it’s of use.
As always, Thank you for all your help and advice.
Steve
Hey Steve again.
I’ve written a whole new blog post about spectralock here: Working with spectralock epoxy grout – that should answer most of your questions. I have not placed the new spectralock into the freezer – I simply mix smaller batches now. The post explains all that.
If you are using epoxy you should seal before grouting. You can seal as soon as you want to and grout the day after that. I normally use Miracle Sealant’s 511 Impregnator.
I am familiar with bonstone. It is some good stuff. As a general rule, though, 95% of stone epoxies on the market are stronger than the stone – you’ll shatter the stone before the bond with most of them. I have played with it, though, it’s cool stuff. I have the equivalent of a mad scientists laboratory with tile in my garage.
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