Anyone who reads my blog (and lets be honest – who doesn’t?) knows that I am a diehard SpectraLOCK junkie. For those who don’t know what that is, SpectraLOCK is an epoxy grout made by Laticrete. It is stain-proof, pet-proof, and bullet-proof! (Don’t try that, it’ll really piss off the wife…) If you don’t know any of that – you need to read my blog more! 
So just like everything I love – it changed.
Laticrete has recently come out with SpectraLOCK Pro Premium grout. A little birdie told me that this will replace the SpectraLOCK pro grout in the near future. Given that, I need to figure out how to use it – because it works differently than the stuff I’m used to. The difference in the workability may very well be due to the temperature, humidity, hangover flu bug, or any number of factors on the particular days I was working with it.
But it just doesn’t feel ‘normal’ to me – you know? It seems like it tightens up (gets stiff) and starts to roll out of the grout joints more quickly than the other stuff did. So, as with any installation product, if it begins to cure faster than you can use it you should just mix up smaller batches. And being the awesome DIY crowd you are – it’s probably a good idea for you to know how to do that anyway. So this is the best way I’ve found to do it.
A few basics first: SpectraLOCK is sold in different unit sizes. The base unit is called … wait for it … a FULL unit! Wait, where you goin’? This isn’t complicated like the metric system or anything, stick around. There is also the COMMERCIAL unit, which is what I buy (and you likely will not need) and it contains four full units. There is also the MINI unit – this is 1/4 of a full unit.
So: 1 commercial unit = 4 full units and 1 full unit = 4 mini units. Now, you can split up whatever you feel comfortable with, I split the full units into mini units. And this is what I’m about to show you. However, if you feel the need to split them into smaller units, or split the mini units into smaller units you can do that as well, you’ll just need to change the measurements.
When you break down the components into smaller units you need to do it by weight. I don’t see why splitting the liquids down by volume would be significantly different – but I was always told to break them down by weight. So do that. Really.
SpectraLOCK has three components, the part A and part B liquids and the part C powder. The part A is the yellow stuff in the foil bag, part B is the white stuff. Part C powder is in the carton. For this I’ll be splitting up one full unit so the bags and carton may look larger than what you have – mine’s bigger! 
You want to have a scale (scrape off the *ahem* ‘illegal substances’) and some one-quart ziploc baggies (the unused ones). For a full unit you’ll want to split each liquid into four baggies. Each liquid baggie weighs a different amount! So don’t just go puttin’ the same amount of everything in all the bags, it won’t work, you’ll have 1/2lb. of the white liquid left – then whaddya gonna do?
- Part A (foil bag) has 5 ounces of liquid in each baggie (4 baggies)
- Part B (white liquid) has 5.2 ounces in each baggie (4 baggies)
- Part C (powder) has 2.25 pounds in each baggie – or whatever you choose to dump it into (4 of ’em)
Just measure out all those components and zip them up. Once you’re done with that you’re ready to mix smaller batches in workable sizes. I just measure out the powder as I go along – I’m a rebel like that. 
AGAIN! If you have smaller units or want smaller batches you’ll have smaller measurements. You just need to weigh out what you have and split them into equal parts.
The photo above shows one full unit in the back, the two large bags and the carton, and one of the smaller units after I’ve measured them out, the two small baggies and the cup of powder. The amounts in the baggies and the cup is what you’ll be working with at one time.
To mix them just get yourself a nice clean container (scrub the beer coffee rings out of it) and add the two liquids together. Just roll up the baggie from the zipper side down until you have no room left to roll (like toothpaste) and snip off the corner of it with scissors. You can then squeeze all the liquid out of it with a minimum of mess.
Once you get those in there YOU NEED TO MIX THE LIQUID TOGETHER! Do that before adding the powder, or it’s gonna be one big mess you don’t wanna deal with – take my word on that. 
Once you get your liquids mixed together you can add the powder. Add about 75% of the powder first and mix it all up. Get a nice, smooth consistency, then you can add the rest of the powder. This helps get everything mixed evenly whereas if you dump it all in there and mix it you’ll spend more time getting an even mixture.
(Jesus, did I just type ‘whereas’??? I need a beer nap…)
Here's your grout - get to it! Quickly, damnit!
And that’s it. It’s all ready to go. When you grout, fill your grout lines and begin washing the tile in about 10-15 minutes. In another 40 minutes or so you can begin the second wash. I’ve noticed with the new stuff that you’ll only have about 35-45 minutes of what I consider ‘workable’ time. It’s not like it turns into a rock after 40 minutes, but it does become considerably more difficult to work with.
If you keep your batches small enough to install in that time frame it won’t be a problem – it’s when you go past the viable working time that it starts becoming difficult.
While I have voiced my displeasure with the new mix in a place or two, after I calmed down and sobered up thought about it I realized that SpectraLOCK is still the easiest epoxy grout on the market to work with. That, coupled with the rock solid (pun intended) color match you get from it, SpectraLOCK will still be my epoxy grout of choice.
I just need to quit being such a hard-headed bastard and learn to work with it a bit differently. One of the key factors in doing that is to keep the mixes in manageable batches. Just take your time, a little extra now will go a long way toward the long-term durability of your tile installation. And it WILL be stain-proof!
Here’s some basic information about the new stuff from Laticrete: Laticrete SpectraLOCK Pro Premium
And here’s a chart for coverage to see exactly how much you’ll need: Laticrete Grout Coverage Calculator
As always if you have any questions at all feel free to post them below. I’ll answer them once I sober up get home from work.
Lowes stopped carrying this… should I try to order online or do you have a runner up you recommend? Thanks
Also might add that I live near foco… from your fb it looks like that’s where you are as well. If you know of any suppliers of spectelock in the area that would be awesome! Thanks again
Hi Janelle,
I order it from Design Materials in Denver or get it from Stonetooling.com. Nobody around here stocks it.
Very helpful article on the SpectraLOCK. I’m grouting a floor of 1” hexagon tiles that is about 25 sq ft. It looks like the SpectraLOCK coverage chart shows I’ll need the Full size of the SpectraLOCK to do the job. I’m struggling with the idea that this is such a small area (5’ x 5’) and the mix setting up so quickly that I have to break it down into 4 parts. Do you think that with the 1” hexagon tiles and them being so close together I can mix the full bucket and grout the entire floor, or would you still break it down into 4 parts and work in 4 sections of the floor? Is part of the reason to work in small batch areas to make sure to wipe the excess grout up in time and then go back to thoroughly clean each area several times and that the time doing that work eats up the curing time of what’s in the bucket…hence mix small batches at a time? I’m also wondering whether with the small porcelain hex tiles it might prove difficult to put down the grout on the entire floor at once and then keep traipsing across the small grouted floor tiles to do the multiple cleaning/polishing, which might mess up the grout lines under your knees and feet…meaning working in small areas and back your way out of the doorway to the room as you grout? Any other advice for grouting the small hex tiles with epoxy?
Thanks
Hi Chris,
With smaller tiles you can mix up bigger batches. You should probably only do about 1/2 at a time, though, as the time issue will sneak up on you. But the smaller the tile the more grout lines, the faster you’ll use it up.
Thanks. Using 1/2 of a full at a time did work well. I will say this stuff is stiff to begin with and gives one a good workout, especially with all those grout lines so close together with the hex tiles. In addition to your article, I found the You Tube video instructions by Laticrete for the SpectraLOCK to be very helpful and informative. A must watch – lots of good tips and how to do the cleaning. I did notice when measuring out the ingredients that Laticrete may have altered the amount of weight for parts A and B as they were a few ounces lighter than what is in the article. I just evened them out so they were in equal parts and all worked well. I found that in doing the cleaning I used one pail of the initial cleaner for the circular sponging to get the initial grout off the tile and work the grout lines in nicely. That bucket was really dirty when I got done. I then changed out the dirty liquid and used 1/2 cup of white vinegar to 2 gallons of water (per Laticrete recommendation) to do the straight sponge strokes for the initial cleaning. Did that twice for initial cleaning. Then, 60 minutes later, did the final cleaning with the final wash additive and did that twice. No film or haze was left once done. In the end, a great product that produced a high quality grout job. I used the Silver Shadow with the small white hex tiles. A nice combination. Thanks for your help.
Good Afternoon Roger,
Great job on the web site. The (w)elf of information on tiling is awesome!
I am about to complete the last step of DIY tile installation… Grouting.
I purchased the spectralock and divided it as you suggested. As its my first time with epoxy grout i will be taking baby steps till i am confident with the process.
My question is the bundle I purchased comes with a post/clean and final/clean powder for cleaning the tile. Do you use it? or do you stick with the distilled vinegar/water ratio cleaning solution?
I can prep/clean the tile floor before grouting. However, I will probably grout in sections in the evening through out the week. I have a 2 year old and pregnant wife. I don’t know which is worse… kidding dear!!!
The solution for the final clean would not be used till i have completed the entire floor.
Is the final cleaning powder essential?
Your thoughts and experience is appreciated.
BTW,
I had merged a laundry room and bathroom together as I saw no use in having two tiny rooms. So knocking a wall out here and putting up a new one there made a big difference.
The process was modified mortar over 5/8 tong and grove. Followed by Ditra then unmodified mortar. I have installed 12″ x 24″ porcelain tile bordered with mosaic glass tile. (I utillized your ditra trick… very slick!) The last step is the grouting so I am a little nervous with this last step. As it is my first time with tiling.
It is looking good (visitors say) i do have a few corners sticking out here and there. But it is a learning process and enjoying it immensely. I wont beat myself to much.
Cheers
hope to hear from you soon.
Steve
Hi Steve,
“The (w)elf of information…” HA! Cookie for you, Sir!
I use the packets. The vinegar, detergent alternatives are for when I run out of those. You NEED to use the final solution within three hours of grouting, if you wait for the entire floor it won’t work and you’ll likely have haze. I would do as much as you can, WITH a final wipe as well, at a time.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the reply.
I did the floor in one night. In fact I completed the grouting and cleaning at about 2AM that same night.
As I reread the instructions. I did not use the pre finish mix.
The vinegar and water was performed about six times. the first 3 was after grouting. The last 3 was for cleaning entire floor. On the final clean had barely any coloured residue. I suspected it to be the actual grout lines I was going over. Once I finished the final wash (vinegar mix) I used a paper towel to wipe dry the tile only and verify haze/coloured residue. My tile is black with grey streaks I could not tell if there was at the time (2AM my eyes being crossed). I found no colour on the paper tile. so I made the decision on skipping the final wash (I did not read your answer in time :$). Also, I was tired!!!
In any case I did a check on the tile during the day. It looks good I will perform a few more washes. I don’t think the final wash after 24 hours would make a difference or would it? The glass mosaic looks good. I will send an image for your review. …be gentle.
Thank again.
P.S. Thanks for the cookie!!!
If it looks fine, you’re fine.
It’s easier with some tile than others. No, after 24 hours it won’t make a difference.
Hi Roger,
Can’t seem to find SpectraLock at any of the usual stores. Do you recommend an alternative epoxy or another store that may have it? Just finished tiling and my wife wants the toilet back in place and out of the bedroom.
What are your thoughts on Fusion Pro? Seems like a viable alternative…
Hi Chris,
It’s a very good grout.
Hi Chris,
The new mapei epoxy is actually really good, as are any of the urethane grouts (they are premixed).
Which is better – the SpectraLOCK Pro Premium epoxy grout or the urethane grouts? I’m leaning very heavily toward using the SpectraLOCK but was curious about the urethane grouts. It’s for 1″ hexagon tiles in a pantry area about 5′ x 5′ – lots of foot traffic and dog likes to sleep in there at times.
Thanks
Hi Chris,
Either is just fine. They are comparable performance-wise. I prefer the spectralock.
Hello Grout Groupies!
Can anyone tell me how long we REALLY have to wait to run the water in the stall shower after spectralock installation?
The floor tiles are 2″ hex and the walls are 3×6 subway tiles. Glass trackless enclosure. Laticrete epoxy spectralock grout, installed by professional wannabes.
Please help us shower in our own home!!!
Hi Chich,
48 hours. Go take a shower already.
Love the site. Ive installed random marble mosaic in the shower. Bits a pieces. Large gaps 1/2″. Walls are honed marble 1/16 gaps. Floors are brushed (distressed) marble 1/8 gaps. Our store sold us Kiesel Servopearl alumina cement based grout. Im thinking mapei epoxy would be better (we only have access to malei brand epoxy). I dont trust the kiesel. Any thoughts? Is the mapei stuff any good?
Hi Alex,
The mapei epoxy is extremely good – I would go that route.
Hi Roger,
My tile installer just finished grouting my new floor and shower with Spectralok Pro. The problem is is looks like the grout lines are about 1/8th on an inch from the top of the porcelain tile that have a sharp edge to them. It is like little channels between each tile that will no doubt capture dirt. Is it possible to have him put another layer of Specralok Pro over the top to bring the grout closer to flush? Would it be a good idea to leave a little bit of the Part C out to help with workability?
Thanks for your help.
Chris
Hi Chris,
It will bond. And yes, leaving out about 10% of part C helps, but it will shrink a bit more than usual.
I have used SpectraLock Grout many times. However, I used it on a counter top about 6 years ago and I have had to replace in a few areas because it seems like in certain areas it begins to disintegrate. Do you know of any certain foods or chemicals that would cause this? I have used it on several floors where they get wet frequently and it has never been an issue, only the countertop.
Hi Becky,
Highly acidic foods can, over time, degrade some grouts, although I’ve never seen it with spectralock. Spectralock IG2000 is a commercial grade epoxy, that may be a better option for a countertop that sees a lot of acidic liquids.
Contractor used SpecraLock grout on my kitchen floor almost two years ago. It was not suppose to stain but it has and I am very disappointed. Any suggestions? Was also used on my backsplash and I love the results there and my son did that job (who had no experience).
Hi Linda,
What color spectralock? And how has it ‘stained’? Normally any ‘stain’ on spectralock is on the surface of the grout – not actually a stain in the grout itself. Even cherry kool-aid. Try oxygen bleach (products like oxy-clean), that will usually pull the ‘stain’ off the surface.
What do you use to clean up your tools after mixing, applying this epoxt grout. Acetone?, water?
Hi Greg,
I use a ‘Luke’. It is a 28 year old American male who works his ass off. These Lukes come in several different forms, most not worth a shit. You need to really search, sometimes for years, to find one which works correctly. Luke is my apprentice.
Luke usually just uses water, sponges and scrub pads.
Hi Rodger,
I notice that you list out the amount of OZ of spectra lock liquid when dividing 1 full unit into 4 mini units. Is this OZ as in weight I assume, not Fluid ounces? That would be hard to measure!
Thanks for the feedback.
Hi Tauran,
Yes, ounce as in weight. Sorry about that.
Hi Roger… & Chris-
When I read this yesterday, I became very concerned since my floor is being re-grouted tomorrow. I had planned on using a leftover Part C [from Lowes] that I bought a few months ago with the Premium Pro Parts A & B. Laticrete’s website states that u cannot mix SPECTRALOCK PRO Premium Grout Part A or Part B liquids with SPECTRALOCK PRO Part A B Liquids but I could not find anything regarding Part C. Also none of the Part C’s are marked Premium or Premium Pro [they either say StainProof or Stain Resistant]. I called Laticrete this morning to clarify this & was told all Part C Powders are the same & can be mixed with any of the AB units. I am very relieved since I would have no way of acquiring a new Part C by tomorrow…..
Just wanted to let u know…. & as always, thx for all your help & advice!
Thank you Lori, it seems I’m either getting conflicting advice or I just mixed up the recommendations – probably the latter.
Appreciate it!
I got “caught” in the middle of the changeover to the new Spectralock Pro Premium Grout. I have a few “old” mini Part C cartons, but have been unable to locate any of the “old” Spectralock grout (part A & B). Can I use the “old” Part C with the newer Part A & B? Thanks
Hi Chris,
Laticrete says no, and I haven’t tried to do that – because they said it shouldn’t be done. I don’t know why or what types of problems you may have, but the part c is the cheapest part so I would just replace it as well.
Roger,
We had a shower done professionally but noticed that there are a few smaller spots that need to be touched up in the grout. We really don’t need a whole lot of grout for this, and I am thinking that even the “mini” size will be too small. We are also planning on doing another job in the house in about a year. If we split up the grout into smaller sections like you have posted here, will the extra grout components that we don’t use for the touchup last for the next year?
We just don’t want to waste a huge amount of grout to only need a small amount for touchup right now.
Thanks!
Hi Matt,
Yes, provided you make sure the baggies are SEALED TIGHTLY and there is no air in them.
Roger –
Great website!
I live in Florida. My entire home is covered in tile. In Florida, homes are built on cement slabs (due to the water table, no basements). My home is seeing small areas of our tile grout with “white mineral deposits” due to the groundwater seeping up through the grout. I’ve tried re-grouting with the original product (sanded cement grout) and the problem just reoccurs shortly thereafter.
My question is, if I remove the sanded cement grout from these damaged areas and replace it with SpectraLock Pro, will it stop this problem since it is a non-porous product? I would replace the grout during the Florida dry season (Fall-Winter) when the water problem is minimized.
Appreciate your opinion. Thanks Steve.
Hi Steve,
Yes, it should solve that problem. Depending on the pressure of your ground water, though, you may have it seeping up between the tile and grout, but that takes a LOT of pressure. You likely don’t have that problem, but I can’t see it from here.
We’re working on a shower re-tile and are to the grout stage. Our local box store has the SpectraLOCK grout (http://www.laticrete.com/homeowners/products/grouts/stainproof.aspx for picture of product), but not the PRO that you talk about here. What is your opinion on this product compared to the pro? Is it worth ordering online to get the PRO version?
Hi Leanne,
The regular will work just fine for your shower. The two are nearly identical.
Hi Roger,
Two questions. How much cure time is required for SpectraLOCK Pro Premium before normal use of the shower? I can’t find any definitive info on spec sheets in regards to wet areas and “full cure” is noted at 14 days.
Also, the Laticrete spec sheet states “Do not seal tile”. I know the grout does not require sealing but I am installing unsealed mosaic marble tile. I don’t want to seal the tile prior to grouting as to not compromise the grout adhesion to the tile so I am a little confused with their recommendation.
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Ross,
*Technically* I think it’s seven days, I tell people three, realistically I have never seen a problem after one. That doesn’t mean it definitely won’t be a problem, just that I’ve never seen it.
You need to seal before grout. It WILL NOT compromise the grout bonding. If you have it dripping into the grout lines and sealing the sides of the tile enough to do that, grout bonding isn’t the problem, the sealer application is.
I want to use Spectralock with glass mosaic tiles on my kitchen backsplash – I’ll be installing glass 3″x6″ subway tiles that will have a strip of tiny 1″x1″ combo glass & stone mosaics….The joints are 1/16 – maybe smaller… Will this product scratch the glass tiles? AND, how small of a tile joint will this product fit into…? Thanks, great web site!
Hi Daryl,
I have used it in 1/32″ grout lines (I don’t recommend it, but it can be done), I regularly use it in 1/16″ lines. It should not scratch your glass, I’ve never seen a glass that it would scratch, but ALWAYS check on an extra piece first.
This all sounds good, but I had this product professionally installed in two showers five years ago. It has broken down over that time into a chalky consistency you can scrape out with your fingernail. I tried redoing some of it with the Spectralock two years ago, but those sections are now degrading. One bath gets no natural light, so it is not sunlight. Directions were followed precisely and the second time I taped off the tiles so NO water was used, even to clean. Regardless, we have a big mess as now we have to scrape it all out and pray the new grout will adhere to the tiles. I have my doubts, as the pores of the ceramic tiles will still have debris from the Spectralock. There is not way to get it all out. I strongly advise against this product.
Hi Gail,
Bullshit!
Sorry, I don’t buy it for a second. What are you cleaning your shower with? I don’t allow people to come onto my blog and spread bullshit about a product I use regularly and KNOW works well. If it is degrading it was either mixed incorrectly, installed incorrectly, or there are factors involved with cleaning that are causing this. I have a ‘puck’ of spectralock in my truck – the same one you see in this post, that has been bouncing around in my truck for the last six years, it’s dusty, but it looks exactly the same as the day I wrote that post.
If you believe this to be a viable point you’re making please provide me with proof. Pictures, at least. Short of that your post may as well be some two-bit startup grout company attempting to hawk your wares on a well-known blog. I get a LOT of that. I can help you with your problem, if you have one, but please don’t come on here and start spreading shit about any product without backing it up with proof.
Have a fabulous day.
Hi Roger,
I have some 24”x24” very white porcelain tiles, with a natural stone layer on top. Planning to grout soon, and looking for a matching grout color. I had read before that the Spectralock Bright White is not very white. Any experience? Any suggestions for other more preferable grouts? It is for a kitchen floor. Oh, and we are DIY :-)
Thanks
Katja
Hi Katja,
I think it’s white, but it’s a relative thing. It does match the samples. Mapei’s white grout is really white.
Hi Roger,
thank you for your feedback. I got some of these little sample sticks, and the Mapei Avalanche seems to be the best fit. I am debating now between Mapei Opticolor and their new product Flexcolor CQ. These are the two higher end types that I can find at my local tile store. Do you have any advice? I would have loved to use the Spectralock as i read so many good reviews, but the color just doesn’t fit that well :(.
The tiles are very high gloss and rectified. So i am thinking the Epoxi type would be a better fit. I am just a bit nervous about working with it and messing it up, as we have no experience with Epoxi type grout or grouting rectified tiles.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much
Katja
Use the Flexcolor CQ. It’s very good stuff. Only grout about 5 or 10 square feet at a time, then wipe it off. If you let it linger you’ll never get it off. Take your time and it’ll turn out very nice.
Roger,
as always, thanks a million for your great advice. We will go with Flexcolor CQ then :-). Anything else to consider when dealing with rectified tiles?
Again – thanks for all your help!!
You rock!!
Just take your time. When done correctly rectified tiles are the BOMB.
Hey, I curious about your take on urethane grouts. I’m a DIY guy and have used SpectraLock with good results. Noticed my local box store is not carrying epoxy grouts in favor of urethane. Getting ready to grout a shower. Thanks, Mike
Hey Mike,
I’ve used a couple of the new ones and I like them. Just make sure you ABSOLUTELY wait the noted amount of time before exposure to water if it’s being used in a wet area. I’m coming around to the urethanes, though, the new formulas are very nice and very durable. I also like the pre-mixed modified acrylics that mapei has.
Spectra lock grout is meant to be mixed up at different consistency for different jobs in other words mix it thinner by not adding as much part c – their website has a very informational video on installation – I have used this a few times now and have had no problems with it the instructions said there will be no color variation by mixing it thinner or thicker so I did not have to use smaller batches I just mixed it thinner for my narrow grout spaces
no sweat
Hi Delray,
That’s true, but the time it takes for it to kick off (start curing) does not change. The reason I mix it into smaller batches is a time constraint, not a consistency issue.
I am just about finished tiling a kerdi shower and I am almost ready to grout. I plan to use the spectralock epoxy grout and I have a question about sealing it. After I grout the shower, do I need to get the grout sealed by a grout sealing company to keep it clean longer, or is it not necessary to commercially seal epoxy grout?
Hi Phil,
Spectralock epoxy grout is already sealed, there is no need to seal it. It is one of the advantages of using it.
I do not want the change then it is going from something great to yuck. Dont do it.
Initial wash and final wash substitution. We had a full unit of Spectralock Premium Pro grout left over from a professional installation of our master bath remodel. Turns out it was just enough to grout another DIY project. I called technical support to find out what to use for initial and final wash. Answer: 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar to 2/5 gallons water. Thanks for your web site for installation directions!
You can also use cascade dishwasher powder.