Anyone who reads my blog (and lets be honest – who doesn’t?) knows that I am a diehard SpectraLOCK junkie. For those who don’t know what that is, SpectraLOCK is an epoxy grout made by Laticrete. It is stain-proof, pet-proof, and bullet-proof! (Don’t try that, it’ll really piss off the wife…) If you don’t know any of that – you need to read my blog more! 
So just like everything I love – it changed.
Laticrete has recently come out with SpectraLOCK Pro Premium grout. A little birdie told me that this will replace the SpectraLOCK pro grout in the near future. Given that, I need to figure out how to use it – because it works differently than the stuff I’m used to. The difference in the workability may very well be due to the temperature, humidity, hangover flu bug, or any number of factors on the particular days I was working with it.
But it just doesn’t feel ‘normal’ to me – you know? It seems like it tightens up (gets stiff) and starts to roll out of the grout joints more quickly than the other stuff did. So, as with any installation product, if it begins to cure faster than you can use it you should just mix up smaller batches. And being the awesome DIY crowd you are – it’s probably a good idea for you to know how to do that anyway. So this is the best way I’ve found to do it.
A few basics first: SpectraLOCK is sold in different unit sizes. The base unit is called … wait for it … a FULL unit! Wait, where you goin’? This isn’t complicated like the metric system or anything, stick around. There is also the COMMERCIAL unit, which is what I buy (and you likely will not need) and it contains four full units. There is also the MINI unit – this is 1/4 of a full unit.
So: 1 commercial unit = 4 full units and 1 full unit = 4 mini units. Now, you can split up whatever you feel comfortable with, I split the full units into mini units. And this is what I’m about to show you. However, if you feel the need to split them into smaller units, or split the mini units into smaller units you can do that as well, you’ll just need to change the measurements.
When you break down the components into smaller units you need to do it by weight. I don’t see why splitting the liquids down by volume would be significantly different – but I was always told to break them down by weight. So do that. Really.
SpectraLOCK has three components, the part A and part B liquids and the part C powder. The part A is the yellow stuff in the foil bag, part B is the white stuff. Part C powder is in the carton. For this I’ll be splitting up one full unit so the bags and carton may look larger than what you have – mine’s bigger! 
You want to have a scale (scrape off the *ahem* ‘illegal substances’) and some one-quart ziploc baggies (the unused ones). For a full unit you’ll want to split each liquid into four baggies. Each liquid baggie weighs a different amount! So don’t just go puttin’ the same amount of everything in all the bags, it won’t work, you’ll have 1/2lb. of the white liquid left – then whaddya gonna do?
- Part A (foil bag) has 5 ounces of liquid in each baggie (4 baggies)
- Part B (white liquid) has 5.2 ounces in each baggie (4 baggies)
- Part C (powder) has 2.25 pounds in each baggie – or whatever you choose to dump it into (4 of ’em)
Just measure out all those components and zip them up. Once you’re done with that you’re ready to mix smaller batches in workable sizes. I just measure out the powder as I go along – I’m a rebel like that. 
AGAIN! If you have smaller units or want smaller batches you’ll have smaller measurements. You just need to weigh out what you have and split them into equal parts.
The photo above shows one full unit in the back, the two large bags and the carton, and one of the smaller units after I’ve measured them out, the two small baggies and the cup of powder. The amounts in the baggies and the cup is what you’ll be working with at one time.
To mix them just get yourself a nice clean container (scrub the beer coffee rings out of it) and add the two liquids together. Just roll up the baggie from the zipper side down until you have no room left to roll (like toothpaste) and snip off the corner of it with scissors. You can then squeeze all the liquid out of it with a minimum of mess.
Once you get those in there YOU NEED TO MIX THE LIQUID TOGETHER! Do that before adding the powder, or it’s gonna be one big mess you don’t wanna deal with – take my word on that. 
Once you get your liquids mixed together you can add the powder. Add about 75% of the powder first and mix it all up. Get a nice, smooth consistency, then you can add the rest of the powder. This helps get everything mixed evenly whereas if you dump it all in there and mix it you’ll spend more time getting an even mixture.
(Jesus, did I just type ‘whereas’??? I need a beer nap…)
Here's your grout - get to it! Quickly, damnit!
And that’s it. It’s all ready to go. When you grout, fill your grout lines and begin washing the tile in about 10-15 minutes. In another 40 minutes or so you can begin the second wash. I’ve noticed with the new stuff that you’ll only have about 35-45 minutes of what I consider ‘workable’ time. It’s not like it turns into a rock after 40 minutes, but it does become considerably more difficult to work with.
If you keep your batches small enough to install in that time frame it won’t be a problem – it’s when you go past the viable working time that it starts becoming difficult.
While I have voiced my displeasure with the new mix in a place or two, after I calmed down and sobered up thought about it I realized that SpectraLOCK is still the easiest epoxy grout on the market to work with. That, coupled with the rock solid (pun intended) color match you get from it, SpectraLOCK will still be my epoxy grout of choice.
I just need to quit being such a hard-headed bastard and learn to work with it a bit differently. One of the key factors in doing that is to keep the mixes in manageable batches. Just take your time, a little extra now will go a long way toward the long-term durability of your tile installation. And it WILL be stain-proof!
Here’s some basic information about the new stuff from Laticrete: Laticrete SpectraLOCK Pro Premium
And here’s a chart for coverage to see exactly how much you’ll need: Laticrete Grout Coverage Calculator
As always if you have any questions at all feel free to post them below. I’ll answer them once I sober up get home from work.
Hi Roger,
I ordered SpectraLOCK Pro Premium grout, can I grout corners or should I use 100% silicone from Laticrete.
Thanks.
Silicone.
Love the site. Found spectra lock at lowes. Did my whole basement then did the sheetrock what a mess. Washed off the floor the grout looked brand new. Went to HD got their version and what a mess. Still cleaning up the mess. Now doing kitchen, spectraloc all the way.
Thanks for the work you put into this site. It has really helped me up my game with tile and allowed me to position myself better in my market.
I have used Laticrete Spectralock pro a few times and really liked it. Easy to work with and white grout stays white long term. My problem is that Laticrete is tough to get where I live. It is always a special order. I have easy access to Kerapoxy off of the shelf. What can i expect in terms of the “real world” difference in terms of installation. I have heard horror stories about epoxy in the past but Laticrete was soooooooo easy. Can i expect something similar from Kerapoxy?
Hey Chris,
I think kerapoxy is a pain in the ass, but I’m spoiled with spectralock.
It’s a good grout, but it’s a bit more difficult to clean up. The easiest way to do it is only grout about 8-10 square feet at a time, take a white scrub pad to loosen the grout on the surface of the tile first, trying to stay away from the grout lines (go over them lightly rather than scrubbing), then clean off with a sponge. About 20 minutes later go over it all again with the scrub pad, then the sponge. Then a final wipe about 45 minutes later should be good. It’s just much more tedious, but it works well if your diligent about it.
Hi Roger-
I used the spectralock grout on my new shower. I have about half a batch left over-already mixed-and am wondering if there is a way to save/store it for future use?
Thanks!
Hi Erin,
Not unless you want to use it as a boat anchor.
Once mixed there is no way to fully stop the curing process.
So I’m not sure if I fubar’d my weekend plan to grout. I put the shower head in and thought the valve body was sealed from water flow and it wasn’t. The floor took a minute or two of water running. Do I have to wait for the parts of the shower that got wet to dry before grouting or will this not affect the install?
Hey Mountain,
Yes, it needs to dry out or it may not bond correctly. It shouldn’t take more than a day to dry, though.
Roger,
I am planning on using epoxy grout on my 4X8 pebble floor. I already have completed installation of the pebble and sealed the floor.
Question – How much grout would you estimate is required for just the floor of the shower? (seems there is not calculation for pebble I can find) Also how large a section should I plan to work with each batch?
Appreciate any assistance you can provide.
Thanks
Bill
Hey Bill,
In my experience one full unit will do about a 3×3 area with round-top pebbles, or 4×4 with flat-top.
Roger
Thanks for your advice.
I finished the floor last night with almost no extra grout.. My first time working with pebble and epoxy grout, and it came out great.
The grout was much easier to work with than I had expected. Thanks Laticrete?
Bill
Spectralock rules!
Hi Roger,
I found your website after searching about Laticrete curing lighter in color. My shower floor is revenue pebble stones and I grouted using Laticrete epoxy in the color Sea Glass. The plastic sample stick and the color on the side of the Part C box show a mint green color. However, when applying I noticed how light the grout was. It’s been 3 days and now the grout looks white, no green tint at all. We poured in all components so I don’t think we messed up on ratio. Could you explain why this happened? Is this normal? Oh, we mixed two complete batches (2 sets of A, B, C) to finish the shower floor and both batches are identical in curing white.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Lilly,
It’s likely just efflorescence on the top of the grout from the minerals being left over after the grout cured. You can remove that with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hot water. The sea glass is a light, light green, though, it isn’t (what I envision to be) a dark(ish) mint color.
Hello Roger,
Thank you for taking the time out to help me. We did remove the top of the grout and floor with 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water but it was still white with no tint of green. We washed and scrubbed quite a few times too. Luckily I took photographs of the whole process and was able to contact Laticrete and talk to them about it. They definitely stand behind their product and am happy with them stepping up.
For diy-ers like us, I’m thankful for your website and taking the time out to help us. Thank you!
Thanks Lilly, glad I could (kind of) help.
We are remodeling our bathroom. We had issues with a previous project where the tile installer used Custom Polyblend. The grout looked horrible. We ended up removing the grout and replacing with Mapei. Our new tile installer wants to use Custom Prism but we are concerned because we had issues with the Polyblend. The other grout he prefers is Merkrete. The tiles are porcelain 12×24 wiith glass mosaics on a curved wall and in the niches. After reading your site and researching I will ask him about Spectralock but wondered what sanded/unsanded grout manufacturers you recommend?
Hi Heidi,
I prefer laticrete, but mapei is good as well. The prism grout is actually a good grout, the only crap grout from custom is polyblend. And it IS crap.
Hi Roger, came across this in my research, appreciate the info sharing – very generous of you. Apologies if this question has already been asked & answered (I did go through a whole page of Q&As so I don’t think so)… but here goes: we’ve done natural pebble tiles (river pebbles on mesh backing) for our shower floor & wall (whole area is also rubber membraned & wet-area compliant underneath that, & with a pre-formed shower base that’s designed to be tiles over too), and I’m thinking epoxy grout is my solution to making the area as waterproof & stain resistant as possible (due to non-uniform tiles there will be quite a bit of grout needed)… I’m just really concerned about being able to clean the epoxy off the pebbles before it sets. Any advice? Or am I completely on the wrong track here with using epoxy on pebble? Would be a total P-I-T-A to have to seal regular grout every few months!! The pebbles are dark grey btw… Was planning on using dusty grey colour epoxy (is that the darkest grey spectralock do?)? Thanks heaps for you time
Hi Beth,
You won’t have to reseal your stones every couple of months – and sealer doesn’t waterproof your grout in any form anyway. That said – you can do spectralock on your pebbles relatively easily. It’s not much worse than normal textured tile. It just takes a hell of a lot of it.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your insight, the Laundry room turned out GREAT! My wife really likes the tile, and I love the fact that the Ditra and Spectralock means I’ll never need to touch it again.
My wife liked it so much, she wants to tile the Kitchen and Dining room. We bought the tile, Ditra, 317 and Spectraloc.
Then yesterday, I was at my local home improvement charity store looking for a used sink for the Laundry room. Guess what was on the shelf? SPECTRALOCK!
So I bought two standard units and 3 mini’s (parts A & B for all) for $30. I was stoked, until I got home and looked at it a little closer. It is sealed, but it’s old, it’s not even called Spectralock, instead it’s labeled Latapoxy. I think it was manufactured in 2009.
All the pouches are still sealed and the liquid is – well – liquid, it hasn’t gelled. I would be adding part C from Lowe’s. I don’t know how much the part C makes a difference to the overall epoxy (new part C with old part A & B.)
Is this still good to use, or did I just make a donation to the store?
Thanks,
Elf-in-Training
Hi Jon,
You just made a donation to the store, but you did get one of the best epoxy setting materials on the market.
That is not epoxy grout, it’s epoxy for setting tile.
Ok, now I’m confused.
I’ll expand a little on my original post:
The 6 “Latapoxy” parts A & B came in three Spectralock mini buckets (the labeling is older, not the same as what you get at Lowes today.) The buckets had the sponge, instructions, gloves and the A & B pouch.
Are you saying that someone took out the Spectralock and replaced it with mini-sized Latapoxy? (btw, the pouches are in the 5 ounce range) If so – then, oh well, wonder what I can use LataPoxy for?
I took a second look at the two regular units. They are labeled “Spectralock Pro Premium Grout”. So they are the real deal. The manufacture date is 2012, so they are a couple years old. Latacrete states that they have a 2 year shelf life. Would you have any issue using them on a personal project? I know that you wouldn’t/couldn’t use them on a paid job.
Thanks,
Elf-in-Training
Oh, I didn’t know they put latapoxy on the bags. They’ve changed stuff a few times, I can’t always keep up.
They say the shelf life is two years but in my experience as long as the liquid in the bags has not separated it’s fine.
AWESOME!
I’m thinking I just ‘stole’ this grout – or at least got it for one heck of a price. Now I can return the 10 new Spectralock buckets I purchased from lowes a savings for $170.
Just to plug the used home improvement stores – I have had great luck buying items at reasonable prices that have been donated to the store instead of going to the landfill. If you’re reading this post, please consider supporting these stores through both your donations and purchases. Every one that I have ever shopped at (there are 6 in my area) has a charitable mission that they support, most of them support local housing charities. Besides, sometime you find gems for the price of gravel.
Roger, what would you suggest using for an expansion joint in my kitchen? I have a 30 ft straight run that is 4 ft wide (the pathway from the kitchen through the dining room.) The rest the the kitchen/dining floor is broken up into less than 20 ft sections by an island. (Think of a 30 by 15 space, broken up by an “L” island, leaving a 4 by 30 run.) The problem is that the color my wife chose is a 50/50 mixture of two stock colors (Mocha and Chocolate Truffle). Can I purchase one tube of each color caulking and mix them to the custom color? Is it safe to just grout it since it is so narrow? (I dont think I can do that because the tension in the X direction is still 30 ft, even though in the Y direction it’s only 4 ft.) Do you have any other ideas/insight for a custom colored expansion joint?
Thanks,
Elf-in-Training
Hey Jon,
You still need a soft joint in there. Use this: Custom colored silicone kit
Grouted 12″X24″ Ceramic tiles with the Spectralock Premium Pro.
Washed down as he went with packet added to water, plus second washdown.
Still a haze that won’t come off. Tried vinegar and water,then Acetone nothing seems to work. Help ! What to do, what to do?
Acetone??? Whoa, let’s not get crazy.
Get some barkeeper’s friend (it’s a powder like the old-school comet) and a white scrub pad. Sprinkle the powder on, dip the pad in warm water and scrub in a circular motion. It may need to be done a couple of times, but it’ll come off just fine.
Roger,
Thank for the tip. We’ll give it a shot, maybe be have a couple when done.
Regards,
Don
hi elf! i am looking over 6 commercial units of spectralock and wondering if i really want to install it in my home. i am concerned with future repairs or issues that i may have with the product. anyone have any negatives to say about the product? any warranty issues? i have met few negative comments, anyone?
Hi Josh,
Where have you ‘met a few negative comments’? I haven’t heard any. Not that issues don’t exist, but they are apparently extremely rare. If you are concerned with any potential ‘future repairs or issues’, won’t you have that same issue with any grout?
thanks for the reply! the only negatives that i found were cost and install difficulty. i was concerned about any other hidden issues, of which i could find none. fingers crossed for luck, i am going on with the install! thanks!
Roger-
Love your site & have appreciated your help! I’m looking for a SpectraLock Powder Part C color that doesn’t seem to exist (yellower than Siltstone but lighter than Marble Beige). Can I mix 2 (Part C) colors to (hopefully) get the color I want, assuming they were carefully & thoroughly mixed? Thx!
Hi Lori,
Yes.
Hi Roger- I just bought the Part C’s Siltstone & Marble Beige & opened the boxes to look at the colors. Both powders are much lighter than the samples from Laticrete. Before I attempt to mix them [to achieve my perfect color :-)], I’d like to get a sense of how much darker the finished product will be. Can I go by the Laticrete samples? Are they accurate? How much darker does the finished grout get from the powder color?
Thx again!
Lori
just want to clarify that the samples i am referring to are laticrete’s stick samples [not the color chart]. the sticks are significantly darker than the part c powder. are the stick samples accurate for what the color will dry to?
also… probably too late now since i already bought it, but is there a difference btw lowe’s spectralock & spectralock pro premium?
thx again!
Yes, the stick samples are accurate. Not enough difference that anyone who doesn’t do it consistently will notice. It will be the same thing for your purposes.
Hi Lori,
On the epoxy they do get a bit darker. They will match the samples once cured.
Hi again- My floor was just regrouted with spectralock. [the 1st install, about 6 months ago was a disaster, all the grout cracked & sagged]. I made a few sample boards to get the perfect mix of colors & they looked great. The floor was done 2 days ago & 90% of the joints look dirty. There are only a few spaces where the grout is the pure color. I tried scrubbing with Barkeepers which i read somewhere on here but it’s not helping. If this was another bad installation I don’t know what I will do…
Hi Lori,
What do you mean by they look dirty? Is the color darker? Inconsistent? How did the grout look right after they were done? Was the floor walked on within 24 hours of the grout installation?
The color, where pure, is perfect but it is inconsistent in that there are only a few joints that look good & the rest look like there are specs of dirt. After the 1st grouting, it looked like some joints were not filled [I was seeing gray lines] so he went back over it & grouted it a 2nd time. After the 2nd time, some joints still looked gray but I was told they were shadows since some tiles are higher than others. I kept complaining that something did not look right. Through both groutings, the color in the bucket was perfect & as it was being spread [he used his fingers to get it into the joints] the color looked great…… until it was washed.
There was also a lot of scrubbing & cleaning to remove the haze & tackiness & it was being walked on [carefully] to do it. I walked on it very carefully in the 1st 24 hours, as little as possible, but I did not walk on the joints.
I just took some pics & it looks like specs of dirt to me.
Is it a lighter grout color? I assume so. Here’s what I think happened: I know something was dirty as the grout was being installed. It may have been the tile from not properly cleaning it before grout, or it may have been the bucket and water used to clean the grout. My money, however, is on the knee pads of the installer. I did it once and learned my lesson. After the initial wipe down of the tile I went back over the installation to do the second wipe. The surface of the tile was still wet, as were my kneepads, etc. The water on top of the tile loosened dirt and dust from my kneepads, which mixed with the water on the tiles as I crawled around, wiping the tile drug the dirty water into the grout lines.
I’m not saying that’s positively what happened, but that’s what it sounds like to me. If the dirty areas are dirtier along the edges of the grout against the tile than in the middle of the grout line it is indicative of the dirt being drug into the line as the tile is being washed. The only solution of which I am aware is to remove the grout down to at least 1/2 of the grout line depth and go back over it with fresh grout.
Hi Rodger,
Awesome website dude!! I really appreciate the time you put into helping others. Thank you for that. Here’s my question…I’m installing 12×24 high gloss white porcelain tile on two walls of my shower. I would like to use the Spectralock but have read (nothing specific to Spectralock) that in general, white epoxy grout can turn yellow over time. This is scaring me away from it. If so, any suggestions for white grout? On the back wall of the shower will be 24×24 silver fantasy polished marble…any problems with the Spectralock on this stone? Again…Thanks for your help!
Hi Chris,
Epoxies that are not UV stable will tend to turn yellow. Spectralock is UV stable. It should also be fine for your stone.
I have one more question regarding sealing the marble and Spectralock. Will the Spectralock cure/stick correctly if I seal the edges (5/8″) of the marble, or should I not seal the edges. I think I read somewhere it wouldn’t stick, but then I read the epoxy grout may cause a “framing effect” (bleeding into the sides of the marble). I’m using dusty gray which is almost and exact match to the marble. Thanks Roger!!
Hey Chris,
You should not seal the sides. The grout needs to bond to the sides. It may cause a framing effect, but that will dissipate. It may take three days or three weeks, but it will go away.
Have you used or abused the Mapei ultracolor plus grout like you have this stuff? It seems like the Mapei may be easier to install but if spectralock is noticably better it may be worth the trouble.
Hi Chris,
I have not abused it, but I have used it. It is easier than spectralock to install, as far as long-term durability and stain resistance I honestly have no idea. It is a good grout, though.
My contractor obviously did not read the instructions when doing the grout with SpectraLock. I found 4 buckets of part AB with only 2 empty Part C boxes. They are supposed to be mixed 1:1!
The color certainly did not come out right. But that aside, what is the consequences of mixing wrongly? Do I have to take out all the grout and redo the floor?
Thank you!
Hi Jessica,
Just because you found two extra buckets doesn’t mean they came from your grout. I have (literally) ten of those little buckets in my truck at any given time to use when I grout. Sometimes you just need extra buckets.
Consequences of it being mixed incorrectly would mean it will not cure correctly. You would be able to tell that right now. It should feel a bit like your grout lines are filled with a dense plastic. If it’s not done correctly (after 24 hours) you will be able to stick your fingernail into the surface of the grout.
We had a bathroom done with Epoxy grout. The installer did not clean as well as we’d like so the tile now looks “dirty” with grout streaks. Getting this stuff off the tile is very difficult, I’ve picked up some stiff brushes designed to be used in a drill but even that is slow going. Any suggestions on how to clean this?
Hi Mike,
Get some barkeeper’s friend (it’s a powder like old-school ajax) and some mr. clean magic erasers. Add water and scrub the hell out of it.
OK I’m an idiot and this site rocks brother. Thanks I am going to do exactly that. I have three other restaurants to do none of which understand the time it takes to work with epoxy. Seriously easy fix and I thank you.
OK my apologies, I am working in a high end restaurant with a cleaning company on contract as well as maintenance division that 6 months ago used sanded grout on 1500 sq ft of kitchen. Of course with no time to dry and a cleaning company coming in behind them, the floor was soaked with water and a degreaser and the grout came up, down to the morter. Then it sat for 6 months being soaked and water has soaked the floor under tiles. I have four workable hours a night and stated small sections were all I could work manageable night to night. It’s a total of 1780 sq ft fans just don’t do it any suggestions??
Oh, okay.
Kitty litter. Dump kitty litter onto the tile, sweep it around so it fills the grout lines, let it sit for about fifteen minutes and vacuum it out. It will suck all the moisture out of the grout lines enough to grout as much as you want. If it’s overly soaked you may want to do it twice, but it’ll get you more than dry enough to grout them without problem.
Sawdust works too, it’s just much harder to get out of the grout lines and wastes a lot of time.
My apologies using spectralock pro premium on kitchen floor
Oh, same answer then.
OK major issue, I am dealing with a floor that has no grout in large area of kitchen down to the mortar. About 1000 Sq ft. Water has been used excessively to clean floors in kitchen. I know I need a dry area to work with any ideas? I am already down to doing only 100 Sq ft a night do to cooks and cleaning personnel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Hi Jeremy,
Not sure exactly what you’re asking, I think it’s how to get the areas dry so you can grout? If so one of those barrel looking construction fans work really well. If that’s not it you’ll need to be more specific.
Hi Roger,
My son is buying a new house and EVERYTHING normal is an upgrade. For 3 bathrooms they want an extra $1200 to use an epoxy grout. They said Kerapoxy. They did break out the cost for each application. Is it more advantageous to epoxy grout the wet areas than the floors?
Thanks,
Marge
Hi Marge,
Maybe. It’s a personal choice. Epoxy is great for cleaning purposes, if they’re relying on it as an extra layer of waterproofing (which it will do to an extent) then I wouldn’t worry about it. But if they are properly built and installed there’s no reason other than easier cleaning to have it.
My grout did not turn out to be the Mocha color I chose. They want to put a (stain) on it. Do I let that happen or remove it all and get someone who knows what they are doing ? My tile guy quit on me. Custom home…. Builder is telling me it will be fine ….. I’ve been told not to stain by another tile guy. PLEASE HELP WITH ANY ADVICE
Hi Rebecca,
It’s a personal choice. I don’t like it because it looks like grout lines that have been painted. If the grout was custom’s grout (polyblend) then your tile guy may have known what he was doing and it still didn’t come out the right color – that stuff is absolute garbage.
Excellent site, I am doing a large commercial kitchen in south florida and would like to know if I have to remove all the old grout before using spectralock epoxy. I am going to take your advice and break down the units. I didnt the last time with ceg lite ( garbage ) and it about killed me. thanks
Hi Jeremy,
Yes, you need to remove the existing grout at least down to 2/3 the depth of the tile before regrouting.
Great website. I’m installing 12×24 porcelain tile over ditra using Laticrete 253 between the ditra and plywood subfloor and ditra set between the ditra and tile. I’m using SpectraLock Pro grout. How long should I wait until I grout? Will it help speed up the time to blow a fan on the tile or run a dehumidifier in the room? Thanks for any info.
Hi Andy,
You can grout it the next day. Do not use a fan or dehumidifier, it will cause the thinset to cure unevenly and cause excessive shrinking and may hinder the curing process.
That’s the answer i was looking for. Most everything else I’m reading online seems to think you should wait 7 days before grouting when using Ditra.