Proper Expectations and Applications

Not seal -Sealer - Seal-E-R!

Not seal -Sealer – Seal-E-R!

In Tile and Stone Sealers Part 1 I explained how sealers work. If you haven’t yet read that please do so. It will give you a base understanding of how they get into your tile and what they protect against. It will help you understand what you’re looking for and also help decode some of the terms you may find here.

When choosing a sealer the first decision you should make is what you are trying to protect against. Silicone-based sealers protect against water-based stains – coffee, tea, beer Pepsi, stuff like that. Fluoropolymer-based sealers protect against oil-based stains – cooking oil, body oil, shampoo, stuff like that.

Easy enough so far?

One thing to keep in mind is Fluoropolymer sealers will protect against water-based stains to an extent but silicone sealers will not protect against oil-based staining. So you get both types of protection with fluoropolymers, but only water-based protection with silicones. 95% of my residential installations receive fluoropolyer-based sealer.

Although these different sealers will protect against different types of stains there is one thing that they will not protect against – etching. Etching is caused by an acid eating away at the molecular surface of your calcium-based stone. It is caused by things like lemons. Throwing lemon slices onto your marble countertop will etch away the surface of the marble – sealed or not. So there is nothing you can use to prevent etching from acids short of simply taking care not to get any types of acid on your tile.

Okay, time for a little reality check – send away the squeamish! One of the main sources of acid which will ruin any type of calcium-based natural stone is from your pet. You know, the dog that bursts into flames when you don’t properly waterproof your shower? (If you don’t know – you should read my blog more often – just sayin’…) Urine contains Uric acid. Uric acid will etch stone (and grout) and slowly eat away the surface of the stone. This is only on the molecular level, but continued etching will eventually become a macro problem. If you have pets and continue to have a mysterious problem with the surface of your stone in certain areas – that may be the cause. Sealer will not stop this.

Strangely enough this problem may show up around your toilet or on your shower floor. This normally happens when you have males in the house between the ages of five and ninety-five. We don’t aim well – unfortunately sealer will not solve this problem either.

In part one I also discussed the different types of carriers in sealers. The carrier is the vehicle which drives the sealer into the pores of the tile then dissipates. Once the carrier dissipates the sealer is left behind. This is how the sealer cures. The two base types are water and solvent. Solvent carrier-based sealers are better for tile and stone with smaller pores.

To determine which type would be best for your stone you can splash some water onto the surface of your (unsealed) tile. If the water is absorbed quickly then a water-based sealer should work fine for your installation. Stones like travertine, limestone, unpolished marble, unglazed ceramic and all cementitious grouts are suitable for water-based sealers.

Solvent-based sealers are best for tile and stone with smaller pores such as granite, polished marble and other polished stones, glazed ceramic and porcelains. Solvent-based sealers work on porous materials as well as materials with smaller pores!

You may have noticed the word porcelain up there. Yes, porcelains. While porcelain tile is less porous than ceramic (it will absorb less than 0.5% by weight) it still has pores in it. The pores in porcelain, however, are not simply test-tube shaped pits in the surface, they are shaped like little pyramids. They are very tiny at the top and get larger down into the body of the tile, beneath the glaze. It will only absorb that percentage of water, but oil-based substances have smaller molecular structures and will get into the porcelain more easily. So porcelain will still benefit from sealer, although it’s not normally necessary in a residential setting.

Nearly every tile product will benefit to some degree with a good sealer, provided the proper one is used. For the greater part of my time as a tile contractor I have used Miracle Sealant’s products. There are, however, a great many very good sealers available. DuPont and StoneTech are two brands that I’ve used, and still use periodically.

Sealer is another product where you will get what you pay for. So if you choose to seal your tile or stone you need to spend the extra money for a good one! Cheaper sealers, for instance, may not be UV stable (UV transparent), which means they may get a yellow tint to them over time.  Seriously, spend the money for the good stuff.

The Good Stuff

As I stated I like Miracle Sealant’s sealers. Here are the ones I use based on what I’m sealing.

My go to sealer is Miracle Sealant’s 511 Impregnator. It is a fluoropolymer-based (polymerized silicone) impregnating sealer (solvent carrier) which works well for most any application.

If you have an extremely porous stone, like tumbled travertine, I prefer the 511 Porous Plus.

If you need or prefer a water-based sealer you want the 511 H2O Plus.

If you want to enhance your stone installation so it has a deeper, richer color (like when it’s wet – but not as ‘shiny’) you want the Seal & Enhance.

They also have basic grout sealer and a few other types of specialty sealers. Most really good sealer companies carry a sealer with comparable abilities, just call the company’s tech support line and tell them what you’re looking for. They’ll know what you’re talking about – and now you do too!

When sealing your tile installation put some thought into it, figure out what you really need and what benefits you are looking for and decide on one with realistic expectations. They are not a magic product, there is a LOT of research behind tile and stone sealers and they have specific benefits based on specific needs. As long as you know what to expect and choose the proper product for your application a good sealer will make your maintenance chores much easier.

They DO NOT, nor are they designed to, waterproof your installation! They do not waterproof your tile and stone. They are not an acceptable fix or magic cure for improper or non-existent waterproof substrates for your shower or other wet areas. They will, however, prevent cherry Kool-Aid from ruining your marble countertop – as long as you clean it up quickly enough. They will help keep nasty stuff from staining your beautiful tile and stone.

And who doesn’t want that?

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  • Patrick

    Roger,

    Looove your site! (a little useful too) ;) :dance:

    We are wrapping up a shower install using 3″ x 6″ tumbled travertine with 1/16″ grout lines. Our tile guy said to use epoxy grout due to the small grout lines. Most importantly, because the travertine is tumbled and not honed, should we grout first then add 511 Porous Plus? If we choose 511 Seal and Enhance will this take the place of the Porous Plus? Should Miracle Grout be added to epoxy grout? :/

    Thank you sir!
    Patrick,
    Arlington, TX

    • Roger

      Hi Patrick,

      The seal and enhance will take the place of the porous plus. Install it before the grout (makes it much easier to clean up the grout). Don’t add anything to the grout.

  • Mary

    Can I use 511 Spray-On Grout Sealer to seal tile?

    • Roger

      Hi Mary,

      If you want to, but I don’t recommend it. I don’t like the product at all.

  • Eric

    Hey Roger!
    Great site; can’t get enough of it (both the info and humor).
    Pertinent Info:
    New install
    Bathroom floor
    Porcelain Tile
    TEC Accucolor Sanded Grout – Warm Taupe (applied)
    No Sealer applied (yet)

    Secretary of War & Finance picked the grout color to match the tile, but has decided that she likes the look of the grout when it’s wet… :censored:

    Question 1a & b: Will Miracle Sealant’s Seal & Enhance darken the grout similar to when water has dampened it? And will it stay that way? I know my regular sealer will temporarily, but once dry, it’s back to the SOS (same old shade) :lol2:
    Question 2: According to Miracle Sealant’s website, the S&E is good for 3-5 years. Can I apply something else on top of the S&E to extend the life, or do I just sign up for periodic reapplication? :bonk:

    Thanks for your time, and all of your very helpful information and experience.
    I’ll go have a margarita…um, I meant glass of chocolate milk, while I wait for your reply.
    Thanks!
    Eric

    • Roger

      Hi Eric,

      It may and it may not. Most of the time enhancing sealers will change the look of the grout, but it may not be exactly what you’re looking for. Good chance it’ll be closer than not, though. Yes, you’ll need to reapply it about every five years if you go that route. You can not apply anything over it to extend that.

  • Risa

    Dear Roger,
    I moved into a condo that had had the floors sealed a month before. The smell is awful two months later… I wasn’t sure it was the tile floor until today. I covered the whole thing with plastic drop cloth, taped to the floorboards and… the smell is gone. My landlord said that it was a ‘very expensive’ sealant so it can’t be the problem. But it is! Do you have any advice re: getting rid of the smell? It reminds me of a beauty salon… definitely “chemical”… It happens to be in an area where air gets trapped, so it builds up irregularly but hasn’t gone away enough for me to feel comfortable. Even opening the windows all day doesn’t stop it from coming back as soon as things are shut up again…
    Thanks
    Risa

    • Roger

      Hi Risa,

      I’ve never had any problem with that. The best thing to do would be to find out exactly what sealer it was and contact the manufacturer. If it’s an issue with the sealer I’m sure they would have a method to remedy the problem.

  • Nick

    Roger,

    First, thanks for all the information and advice that you post. It has instrumental in our master bath remodel. That being said, we are in the final stages. The floor is tiled and grouted and the tile is now on the walls. However, we have 4×6 polished marble on the walls. The guy at the tile store sold me “Premium Gold Marble and Onyx Sealer”. It is a water based sealer. Now after reading the information here, I’m wondering if I shouldn’t return it and find a Fluoropolymer based one?

    Any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Nick

    • Roger

      Hi Nick,

      For a bathroom a water-based is normally just fine. The premium gold is good stuff.

  • Les

    Hi Roger, thank you for your post–very informative.

    I have small black river stone sheets installed in my walking shower. I applied the 511 enhancer and sealant and initially it looked great–the black tile became shades of black with pretty veins of brown and gray. It has been about three months and quite suddenly it appears to have disappeared! It has become almost etched looking and drab.

    I’m guessing someone cleaned it with something inappropriate. A few questions sir, what kind of cleaner would strip this like this? Is there something I may have failed to do before application that caused this? What do I need to do to ideally prep this stone 511? Can I simply reapply the 511 again?

    And last Roger, should I try a different sealer–or stick with this 511?

    Thank you for your thoughts–the Internet provides lifetimes of experience if I can just figure out what I don’t know that I don’t know :lol2:

    • Roger

      Hi Les,

      A high ph cleaner or an extremely abrasive cleaner could strip the top layer of the 511 from the stone. You can simply reapply the 511. If it worked for three months then it was nothing you did or didn’t do that caused it. Stick with the 511, it’s great stuff.

  • Kj

    Hi – thanks for the useful information. I recently put down a porcelain (plank) floor and like the wet/shiny look. I coated it with a cheap coating and it came up in spots pretty quickly from my dog laying on it and licking his paws (“over-licking”?). My plan is to strip that with the recommended product and then to apply the Miracle Seal and Enhance. Do you know if that can withstand semi-consistent licking? If not, can you recommend something that requires more than some tongue swipes to remove? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with those of us in the need!

    • Roger

      Hi KJ,

      It’s been years (days) since I’ve licked tile, but the miracle sealants is a penetrating sealer, so it works from the pores of the tile rather than being a coating. So it should be able to handle more than a few swipes. :D

  • Joe

    I am thinking about sealing my newly installed Travertine (Pool Deck) with 511 H20 Plus or Seal & Enhance. I don’t know if my Travertine is tumbled? However, some of the deck is exposed to the Sun other parts are undercover. Will they all weather (color changes) the same? How would you suggest is the best way to apply the sealer.

    • Roger

      Hi Joe,

      They will both hold up the same. With jobs that size I prefer using a paint pad to install the sealer.

  • Sandy

    I just finished tiling a bathroom floor. I used unsanded grout. I wanted to seal it so I bought 511 Impregnator sealer. On the label it mentions using it on sanded grout but doesn’t mention unsanded grout. Can I use it on the unsanded grout?

    • Roger

      Hi Sandy,

      Yes you can.

  • Vince

    Roger,
    Just completed grouting a walk-in shower with flat semi-polished river rock floor. The finished floor looks somewhat dull and my wife wants something applied to the floor that would give it a gloss or semi-gloss shine. The floor has not yet been sealed. What product do you recommend we use? Thank you in advance for your help.

    • Roger

      Hi Vince,

      I like miracle sealant’s enrich -n- seal.

  • Kevin

    I have heard that you should seal travertine prior to grouting, but if you intend to fill the holes with grout you should not get any sealer in the holes as it might affect adhesion. That sounds a bit difficult.
    Thanks for your help.

    • Roger

      Hi Kevin,

      If you don’t have honed travertine and intend to fill the holes do not seal it first. Most of the time sealing first is only REALLY required if you are using a grout considerably darker than the tile, so it doesn’t darken the travertine. It does make it easier to grout when you seal first, but it isn’t required.

  • Elaine

    My tiler told me on his way out

    • Roger

      Hi Elaine,

      I have absolutely no idea what you’re talking about. :D

  • Yoav

    Hi Roger, just found this article – very useful!

    I have a question: I have just completed a reno where I have used a marble mosaic tile for the entire bathroom floor including curb-less shower. The tile was grouted in place before being sealed. Would you recommend using an impregnating sealer? or do I risk trapping moisture underneath the grout now that it will be sealed along with the tile? Also, the grout will end up darkening as well when all is sealed, correct?

    • Roger

      Hi Yoav,

      Yes, use a good impregnating sealer. The sealer will not trap moisture, it allows vapor dissipation specifically so that does not happen. No, a regular sealer will not change the color or shade of your tile or grout.

  • tim

    Hi Roger,
    your thoughts on the old question about what to use at the base of a kitchen backsplash, where the tile meets the counter? I have left a 1/8″ gap there.
    Tiles are slate, counter is concrete. Counter has some sealer, tiles will have. I’ve been told that silicone is a good idea there, but I am not keen on the shinny effect. Leaning towards sealed grout. Not a lot of wet activity there, just occasional splash from sink.
    Dittos on the many thanks for your advice.
    Tim

    • Roger

      Hey Tim,

      Silicone or caulk, grout will crack. It has nothing to do with water and everything to do with the two planes moving in different directions with regular seasonal changes. Color rite has silicone that is sold in matte finishes, it’s not shiny.

  • Joel

    Hi Roger,

    I am SOOO glad I came across your site! My wife and I are in the finishing stages of our bath/shower surround, and are unsure what our next move should be. We used 12×12 multi-colored slate tiles from Lowes and are unsure if we should water seal or grout first??? This is probably a very stupid question, but I can’t seem to find a definitive answer to the question anywhere online. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

    • Roger

      Hi Joel,

      With slate you want to seal first, then grout, then seal again. The first seal helps cleanup tremendously, the second seals everything including the grout.

  • andrea

    Mr. Roger,
    Everyone’s questions and answers have been very helpful for my DIY projects. Just finishing up a traventine kitchen back splash and floor. I sealed the floor with the Dupont products. Enhancer sealer and premium sealer on top. Looks real nice but I am pretty sure I want a bit more shine. I used the high gloss sealer on the back splash. This looks really nice. It brings out the beautiful colors even more and thinking since its closer to food spills it will clean up well. Will I be ok layering the sealers on the floor by adding a few coats of the high gloss sealer for final coat?
    Andrea
    ?

    • Roger

      Hi Andrea,

      Normally yes, provided the sealers are from the same manufacturer. I don’t know how much of an additional shine you’ll get, though, since the stone is already sealed.

  • Matt

    Hi Roger,

    Finishing up a shower you’ve been helping me with.

    I have some granite pieces (curb, shelves) and wondering if I should apply sealer to these pieces first or caulk their joints first?

    Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Matt,

      Sealer first.

  • Susan

    Roger,

    I appreciated reading your description of Sealers and Enhancers. I selected Miracle Sealant’s 511 for my manufactured stacked stone. When applying to my samples I found the 511 Sealer looks good on some of the stone variations and the 511 Seal & Enhance looks better on other stones. Yes this would make the application go more slowly but I was wondering if using both is an OK idea.
    Also wondered if I could add the Seal & Enhance to the plain Sealer to give the Sealer a little bit more of a kick?
    Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Susan,

      Perfectly acceptable. And I don’t know if you could actually mix the liquids without problems or not, I imagine so, but I would definitely call the tech line about that.

  • Kathy

    Roger,
    We had a white subway tile installed for a kitchen backsplash. I wasn’t here when it was grouted, but my girlfriend asked the guy who put it in about sealing it. He said it didn’t need it if the mess was cleaned up right away. She said what about kids and spaghetti sauce that doesn’t get cleaned up right away and he said then we should seal it. What to use is the question. Does the same flouropolymer work on grout too? (P.S. I agree with the comment about guys from 5-95!) Thanks for the help AND the humor!

    • Roger

      Hi Kathy,

      Yes, it works very well on grout. And I would highly recommend sealing it.

  • robert niemann

    Roger I put in a large walk in shower as I am really gimpy legged, but can still work albeit slowly. Because if the shape it was necessary to have raw edges of the tile exposed to water. after rounding over the edges, that of course exposed more, the porcelain tile that I used has a grey interior so looks really good. Those raw edges have to be sealed as well as the grout and procelain surface. In reading your comments Im guessing miracle Sealant impregnator pro is the right choice ?? Also how many coats and how long to wait between coats. Many thanks for your really great information, Bob

    • Roger

      Hey Bob,

      Yes, those edges need to be sealed as well. The impregnator pro will work just fine for it. Two coats should be sufficient, you only need to wait about 90 minutes between coats.

  • Tom

    Hi Roger,
    Does Spectralock Pro grout need to be sealed? Any special steps or waiting time for the epoxy grout to dry before sealing, if any? I am installing ceramic subway on the walls, and porcelain tile on floors. I will be using marble or quartz, but probably marble because its available at HD, for a shower niche walls and shower curbing top. Should different sealers be used for each different tile and stone? Also, Kerdi shower system is being used if that makes a difference.
    Thanks,
    Tom

    • Roger

      Hi Tom,

      No, it does not need to be sealed. You can use the same sealer for all tile and stone in a single installation. I would seal the tile and stone, then grout after the sealer cures.

      • Tom

        Thanks Roger. Sorry I forgot to mention the tiles are glazed. And I did end up getting quartz stone which I’ve read doesn’t need sealer? Do you still recommend a sealer? And which kind? Guessing not the impregnating? Also while I’ve got you here, if I was running the quartz stone on the curb top, knee wall side, and knee wall top should all the butt joints be tight or leave a gap for grout or caulk? The quartz is 3/4″ x 6.25″ and is 36″, 42″ and 32″ long respectively. This shower is on a slab on grade so a kerdi curb was used, the knee wall is typical 2×4 and cement board construction, all kerdied, perdy and ready for tile. :-D

        • Roger

          Quartz should be sealed, in my opinion. And I would use 511 impregnator pro. Most of it will buff off, but it will fill in any open areas. Always leave gaps for grout. Butting may chip the quartz.

  • Janis Huggins

    Hi, enjoyed your instructions. We have had trouble with our stone floors for 20 years – and the guy who did it 8 years ago must have used a cheap solvent sealer as they yellowed. We have a CO sandstone I think – they are fairly large stones – some 2-3 feet wide and are peachy (dark and light), grayish and tan. We were not smart enough to research it ourselves – duh – and depended on the “professionals” – wrong plan! I understand so much more after reading your site. Really changed my mind about VOCs.
    We just had our floor stripped and then the person doing it said I should use water if I was worried about smell and it would be fine. Well, wrong again. Probably because of whatever was used in the past. The color is back after stripping – but, the water sealer was a spray he says and it left shiny spots some places and the stone looks totally dry and ugly other places. Some mat and some soft shine – very erratic. If you have any thoughts on whether we can now apply the fluoropolymer sealer over what he has done and make it work – PLEASE let me know. He is coming over for a meeting to look at the result in 2 hours! I would really appreciate your help as you sound like you know this stuff! Thanks, Janis

    • Roger

      Hi Janis,

      Looks like I may have missed your two hour deadline – day job and all. :D I would not put any other sealer over what is currently there if it has come out inconsistent. You won’t get even absorption and would likely end up with the same problem. Perhaps another full coat of the water-based sealer would work. Or stripping out what is currently there and going with a fluoropolymer.

  • Stephanie

    Not a brilliant retort, but thanks for the information was really helpful.

  • Jeremy

    Roger, first off thanks again for doing what you do. I can’t tell you what a relief it is to have an expert willing to lend his knowledge at our DIY whims.
    Ok, I am installing travertine stone tile on my shower walls. I plan to use Laticrete Spectralock grout. I’m planning also to use an enhancer sealer on the stones. My question is – should the grout fill the small pockets and voids on the stones’ faces, and if so, would sealing before grouting prevent the grout from adhering into those pockets? I have visions of little grout blobs falling out over time. What do you recommend? Thanks!!

    • Roger

      Hi Jeremy,

      Yes, the grout HAS to fill those pits, otherwise you have open pits and holes in your shower walls – stuff likes to grow in spaces like that. Sealing beforehand may prevent the grout from bonding correctly in those spaces. Your best bet is to use a grout release, it’s like a sealer but it is water soluble and washes off as you’re cleaning the grout. Use that, then inspect your tile after you grout to ensure everything is filled, then use the enhancing sealer. If you need to fill something before you seal it then you’ll be able to do that and get a proper bond.

  • MJ

    Roger,
    I see you like the Miracle products. I don’t see any reference on your site to using Grout Shield instead of water. In your opinion, is this “better” than using a grout sealer afterwards, or 6 of one, half dozen of the other (beer vs pepsi, that is)?

    Thanks,
    MJ

    • Roger

      I don’t like grout additives, but that’s me. Guys that use them swear by them, and grout shield seems to be the best out there according to them. I say personal choice.