There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:
- Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded)
- Sanded
- Epoxy
Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?
Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout
Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16″. Unsanded grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.
Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall, because it is “stickier” than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for which you are using it is correct.
Sanded Grout
Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8″ and wider. Although the specifications state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8″, you really should use sanded for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage. No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.
Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it cures. That’s why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile installations.
If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine, you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy which would be a better choice anyway.
Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and stain resistant.
Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.
To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The cold air will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well, frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. This essentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you don’t have to rush through it.
Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble that’s important. Be sure to test first anyway!
Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I ever use is SpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxy grout (at least any I’ve ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please don’t take that to mean the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink (Don’t do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.
The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.
Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout, chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.
The 1/8 inc grout lines on the floor of my shower in my brand new house began discoloring almost immediately, in irregular spotches. The tiles are 2 x 2 porcelain tiles and the grout used is sanded grout. The contractor who installed the shower said he thinks there was something wrong with the grout batch that caused the odd discolorations. To remedy the unsightly floor, he proposes to rough up the tile, then install new porcelain tile on top of the old, and he proposes to use epoxy grout. Do you see anything wrong with this approach?
Hi Anita,
It’ll work if it’s done correctly, but it would be easier to simply remove the existing grout and regrout with epoxy. Any particular reason he doesn’t want to do that?
Howdy, I’m laying a penny floor in my smallest bathroom and I had picked up some unsanded grout. I friend cautioned me that the limestone might tarnish my pennies. Thinking about switching to an epoxy grout, and recommendations?
Hi Derick,
What limestone would that be? Modern grouts do not have limestone. You need a sanded grout with any type of penny tile, especially pennies.
Epoxy will work as well.
Roger,
Portland cement is a major component of conventional grout and is made from ground limestone…….
You’re correct. However, limestone, shale, iron ore, and clay can all be crushed up and used as the ‘clinker’ in the cement, which constitutes approximately 15% of Portland cement, the remaining 85% is lime and silica. If I were to be worried about anything it would be the alkali from the lime rather than the crushed limestone.
Are there any tips on sealing grout on the walls to prevent the sealer ending up all over the place? I just did the first coat and tried using the squeeze bottle with a brush, squeeze bottle with the wheel, a small paint brush, a foam brush and found all to be very messy. The small paint brush probably worked the best, but still messy. Any hints?
Hi Joe,
Any particular reason you’re trying to keep it off the surface of the tile? Even with porcelain you can buff off the sealer, it’s not going to hurt it at all. I normally use a regular spray bottle and a microfiber towel to buff off the excess. If you really want to do just the grout lines then a small brush is the least messy.
To the Floor Elf, Roger thanks for all the great info on this site along with the publications I’ve bought that helped me with a great finished product. But, here it comes, Floor Elf you need to update your web page front end there is a fourth grout that you don’t talk about much that truly has totally different properties than Sanded, Unsanded and Epoxy grouts. URETHANE based grouts should really be addressed up front, advantages and disadvantages. I know you’re thinking I work for a Urethane grout supplier, but I don’t. I’m a once a decade tiler and so impressed with Urethane and it’s advantages over epoxy that I don’t understand why you have not addressed this option up front. Just Say-in Tile Elf.
Hi Dale,
Because urethanes are relatively new to the market (in tile terms) and the first two brands that came out ended up having extreme issues in wet areas. I am slowly working back into (possibly) using them in a wet area again, but I don’t write about, nor recommend, anything I don’t personally use.
I appreciate your honesty. After much research and understanding of Urethane’s early failures, I chose Star Quartzlock 2 for my bath/shower grouting. The installation and final properties sounded to good to pass up. Time will tell if my shower basin will stand the test of time. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again for all the great advise this site provides.
Roger, Have you used TEC Pro Grout? Supposed to have advantages of epoxy with a longer pot life. Gene
Hi Gene,
Are you talking about the power grout? If so yes, I’ve used it. It’s a very good product.
Great site!
I am laying a tile floor with electric radiant heat in a spa room. I am using a self made blend of large jade flat pebbles and stainless steel wrapped ceramic pebbles set on mesh. I would like to bring in some more color (to echo the cedar deck around the spa) with the grout. I particularly like the copper epoxy grout from Bostik Dimension line, which bought out Star Glass grout several years ago. However, I am not using glass tile so the translucent quality of the Dimension grout will be a bit unrealized although I really do like that bit of sparkle it has from the minute glass spheres of which it consists. My issue is that Dimension is quite pricey (around $100 per 9 oz premixed container). With about 240 sq ft to tile and grout…this is a bit much! I have read about using grout as an additive when mixing epoxy grout (SpectraLock???) or simply adding it to regular grout.
Does anyone have any opinions on which is the preferred method to add a little sparkle to the grout…I know the purists are probably grimacing, but this is a fun unique space that calls for a fun and unique design.
Ok…so, more information. My grout lines will range from vary narrow to almost 1/2″. So…sanded makes sense. But I’m not sure about adding glitter to sanded grout AND I don’t want to scratch the stainless steel pebbles. So…now I’m thinking again about using Laticrete’s SpectraLock with Dazzle additive. This way I get my glitter with a non-scratching material and the variable size of my grout lines will accommodated. However, I remember reading that epoxy grouts dry very very hard. With the indoor radiant heating, there will be expansion and contraction of the tiles. Will SpectraLock hold up to this movement OR am I just in a situation where urethane grout is the only way to go?
So urethane grout (bostik dimension) or…..I have read from some of the manufacturers of SS pebble tile that they recommend non-sanded grout with a latex additive for flexibility and to be more friendly to the larger grout lines. Radiant floor heating and even a glitter additive may work with this solution…no?
Kathleen
Hi Kathleen,
I don’t see any problem at all with using either all dimension or all spectralock with dazzle. I would call the tech lines to ensure your particular tile with in-floor heating would not cause problems, though. I would not mix anything with anything else, you never know if it’ll play nice or not.
Hi Roger,
So….still investigating grout for my application. The radiant heat is in…yay!…now waiting for tile to arrive. I had an opportunity to see the Bostik Dimension grout up close and personal. It was…OK. Nice translucency…but not really sparkly. Certainly not for the price $$$$! I was researching Mapei’s Kerapoxy with Glitter additive, however: in speaking with a Mapei tech rep, he informed me that this product is only available in the EU : (
But…he did recommend a new product from Mapei…Flexcolor CQ, for my particular application (natural stone and stainless steel flat cut pebble “mosaic”). He said it is good with delicate materials (no scratch), premixed single step, easy to use, less fussy than epoxy, more flexible than cementitious, even color, can be used with a wide variety of materials (porcelains, ceramic, glass, natural stone), etc. He also said that I could try adding glitter as long as it is a non-metallic glitter, it should not be a problem. Of course, he recommended doing a small mock up as a trial first. Sounds interesting.
It is apparently a latex/acrylic based grout.
Hence…my question. I know nothing of latex/acrylic based grout. I know of one company in the UK that sells premixed acrylic grout with glitter in it so apparently glitter works in acrylic grout… but shipping from the UK would be cost prohibitive. Can you tell me about latex/acrylic based grout…some of there advantages/disadvantages? Do you think it would work with my application?
Thanks again,
Kathleen
It may work with your application. As far as adding glitter that would be something you need to take advice from your rep about. The newer latex/acrylic grouts seem to be a good product, they just haven’t been out a long time (relatively speaking) so there is limited long-term data on them. Flexcolor CQ is a good grout. If you use it in your shower be absolutely sure to pay attention to the FULL cure time before exposing it to water.
RAN OUT OF GROUT!
Great site!
I am selling my house (asap) and yesterday I finally finished tiling the granite tile countertop and tumbled marble backsplash on the newest cabinet in my kitchen to match the others. I used SpectraLOCK back then and had plenty of Part C left in 3 different colors because I did the backsplash in one color and combined 2 powders to get just the right color for the granite. Our Lowe’s no longer carries the product so I had to order a mini Part A&B online.
I wish I had found your site BEFORE I split the 2 liquids in half because I would have known to leave them separated until I was ready to mix the powder in. But nooooo… Imaidiot mixed Part A&B and THEN divided it using one half to go ahead and mix with Part C for the backsplash and carefully covered the other half of the epoxy liquid to mix later for the countertop grout. (Imaidiot has worked with 2 part epoxy before and really knows better)
Of course when I finished the backsplash 1 1/2 hours later the epoxy had gotten a bit thick … I was only able to mix in about 1 1/4 cup of the 2 cups Part C I needed for the countertops. Having carefully estimated that I would need pretty much every bit of the mini unit for my small project I wasn’t too surprised when I ran out of grout. I got all of the top done and both sides of the edging, but I have approximately 5 linear feet of a 1/8″ grout line on the front edge of the cabinet that still needs grout.
I don’t really have time or money to order another mini unit of Part C … any suggestions? This is not a wet area btw …
Can the powder be mixed with anything else? Is there someplace I can order an Extra Mini Unit?
I may post pictures later of this project – it turned out really nice!
I bought a grinder with all the pads to bullnose and polish the edges, and the SpectraLOCK grout looks fabulous with the dark mottled granite. I intentionally did not seal the tumbled marble on the backsplash before grouting because the SpectraLOCK not only filled in some of the larger holes and completely sealed the tile making it much easier to keep clean (all of which I wanted since it’s in the kitchen), it gave it a beautiful aged patina.
Thanks for any help you can offer!
Hi Penny,
There is nothing else that it can be mixed with that will give you the color you need, or the durability. You can order another mini unit, but you knew that. You may want to get a color-matched silicone (laticrete makes it) to use if it’s an area that gets no use (like the front edge where nothing will be really setting on it, etc.).
Thanks Roger – I guess I’ll just have Imaidiot order another mini …
Hello Roger. Glad I found your site at the top of my search! It is a keeper.
Hope your site is still active – I don’t see any dates to the posts. Thanks!
Hi Tracy,
I wouldn’t recommend real copper. I don’t know how it will react with the grout, and copper turns green from water over time. You can use this, though: Dazzle
And I am active, unless it’s Saturday, then only my beer drinking arm is active.
Roger,
I am going to be tiling my backsplash with Elida Ceramica Grey Mix Metal (aluminum) tiles. What is your recommendation for grouting?
I thank you in advance for your consideration in this matter.
Brian
Hi Brian,
A regular sanded grout should be fine, just be sure to test it on an extra piece to ensure it won’t scratch. If it does then use a urethane or undanded.
Hi Roger, I am new to tile. My brother-in-law will be placing my tile and from the reviews I’ve read and yours, Laticrete Spectralock sounds the best, but there are a couple of diff kinds within Spectralock. I’m using a glazed porcelain tile on my floors and in my shower. What is the difference between the Laticrete pro premium epoxy grout, pro epoxy grout and the spectralock 2000IG? Which do you recommend?
Hi Kristen,
The pro and pro premium are essentially the same, the regular is being phased out and replaced with the premium. The 2000IG is the commercial version. I would use the premium.
we are renovating our bathroom and placed creamic tiles on shower and half of bathroom walls, and porcelain on the floor. Both have 1/8″ spacing. Is it best to use spectralock grout on both? Does it come in grayish and almost white (like american standard tub white)? or will the fusion grout be ok? does fusion grout come sanded and unsanded? should I use unsanded on walls and sanded on floor? or sanded on both? our contractor is planning on using grout on everything including the lines between the tile and tub and corners? is this ok? Thanks a lot for your help.
Hi Myra,
Spectralock and fusion are both fine. I would use sanded on both. No, it is not okay, he needs to use caulk or silicone at all changes of plane. Grout will crack out.
Thanks Roger. What is the best brand of caulk to use? Are they all the same as long as we use the one for tub and tile?
Thanks,
Myra
Custom (fusion pro) and laticrete (spectralock) both make a caulk and silicone that match the grout. Either is just fine and the silicone will be the same color. Use the same for both tub and tile.
Have you ever used Power Grout? It was recommended by tile store but my builder has never used it. Have you heard any reviews of this product?
Hi Carla,
I’ve used it a couple of times, it’s good stuff. As long as he follows the directions on the bag he’ll be fine.
Finishing a shower stall and looking at a new Home Depot stocked grout called FUSION. Have you used this grout? I originally was planing on using QuartzLock2. The Fusion grout says it’s a propriety polymer based grout, I assume urethane, premixed that has the same stain resistance, sealing, and anti-mold properties of epoxy or urethane grouts. It’s considerably cheaper than the Quartzlock2.
Hi Dale,
Yes, and it’s very good stuff. It does what it says it does.
I am concerned if the spectra lock will scratch white polished marble I used on bathroom wall. I know you stated it is different sand but just want to confirm. The tile is a lowes white Venetian type.
Hi Fred,
Likely not, but ALWAYS test it on a scrap piece first.
Based on my readings here, and advice from others, I’m going to use SpectraLOCK on my latest tile project (a shower surround). The closest and easiest distributor for me is Lowes. They carry the color I want to use. But for some reason they do not carry the matching caulks. Seems like a hole in their marketing/supply chain.
Hi Mark,
I agree. Was there a question there?
They should be able to order it for you or you can order Laticrete silicone at FloorLife
Thanks Roger. Yes, I had intended to ask the question.
And thanks for all the info on the site. While I’ve tiled over a dozen floors, I’m in the final stages of finishing my first shower job. I learned a lot on the site and I’m quite pleased with the results.
It was also the first time I’ve used SpectraLock. It would have been a disaster without the advice here. Other than the change in methods and learning curve, I’ve found it easier to deal with than the expectation set by all my reading. You need to work fast, but the cleanup was less problematic than I anticipated.
Thanks again.
Roger,
Silicone, Acrylic, Sanded, Unsanded? How does a newbie decide?
Thanks
Hi Mark,
Silicone is the most flexible and long-lasting. Acrylic will lose elasticity over time and need to be replaced more often. Sanded caulk is like sanded grout, sand is added to the product to prevent it from shrinking in larger gaps. Unsanded will shrink more than sanded. When given the choice silicone is normally the best option.
Hi!
If you use an epoxy grout do you still need to use a sealant?
Thanks!!
Hi Sharon,
No, not for your grout. If you want your tile sealed you still need to.
Hi Roger, Have you ever used Fusion grout? I hear it is easier to work with than regular epoxy grout.
Hi Joy,
Yes I have. And yes, it’s easier to work with. Be aware of the full cure times should you decide to use it, though.
Getting ready to grout. Using Keracolor Grout by Mapei. Unsanded on walls and sanded on floor. Is it worth using the Mapei Grout Maximizer? The ads and info make it sound like it improves the grout stain and water protection. Does it it help prevent stains and offers additional water penetration protection. If so, would this be a good alternative to a post grout sealer.
Hi Joe,
Yes it works and yes it’s a good alternative to sealer.
Hey,
We are having tile floors installed in our kitchen, hallway, living room, and bathrooms downstairs. What’s the best kind of thinset and grout to use for a job that big?
We are using 20 inch porcelain tiles.
thanks!
Steven
Hi Steven,
Thinset type has absolutely nothing at all to do with the amount of tile you are installing and everything to do with the substrate, framing structure (if over wood), tiling substrate and type of tile. It depends on almost everything except the amount of tile being installed.
Thanks Roger,
the tile is being put down on the concrete slab. the flooring company got back to me and said they use Mapei Ultraflex 1 thin set and Mapei- Keracolor Sanded Latex Modified Cement Grout.
is that what i want them using? the only reason i’m doing research and not just letting them do their thing is because in my old house a tile job was not done right and several tiles began popping up.
thanks!
Ultraflax 1 is just fine. Absolutely an acceptable setting material for your installation, provided it’s installed correctly of course.
Hello Roger! Thanks for you last reply. I have one last question regarding bathroom wall and floor tile. Now that we have laid our subway tile with white grout on the walls and hexagon with gray grout on the floors ( we did not end up using epoxy bc of expense reasons) do we need a sealer? And what is the best sealer we should use? Do we only seal with one coat? Thanks again for sharing your wisdom and time. All the best!!
If you want your grout sealed then yes, you need a sealer. I use miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator. Normally with two coats.
Roger, With your help and a lot of work I’ve managed to just about finish my shower project. I’m almost ready for the grout. I’ve read all the information I could find that you’ve suggested on grouting and plan to try using epoxy grout. I was curious about one thing. Do installers ever just use thinset instead of grout to fill the gaps ? If so Why ? If not would it work ? Hope this is not too stupid a question.
Hi Ron,
I’m sure there are some that do, but it is no longer common practice. In the early 20th century is was common practice to use the mortar as your grout as well. That’s why, as to whether it would work – yes, it would work. However, with the availability of modern grouts and the ease of installation, coupled with the chemical composition of modern thinsets which would make it extremely difficult to get off the surface of the tile and get a clean joint, there is absolutely no reason at all to do so. It would actually be more difficult now.
Hi,
Would you recommend using Laticrete Epoxy Grout on a Glass Backsplash. I called them and they were super vague. I didn’t get a yes or no.
What is your thought? Thanks so much for your advise.
Claudia
Hi Claudia,
It depends on the glass. When you said I called them, I assume you meant laticrete? You need to contact the tile manufacturer and ask them whether you can or not.
Thanks Roger! Sticking with mapei unsanded. Unfortunately I couldn’t get in touch with tile company.
Does this Spectra come unsanded? The outside of the packages does not say if it is sanded or not sanded but the inside brochure of the bucket does say it is sanded. My contractor doesn’t want to use it on my ceramic tile (looks like wood flooring) because he is afraid it will scratch. However, the picture on the outside of the bucket shows them sanding a highly polished granite floor (go figure). So I am looking for an epoxy grout for the cleaning ability and non staining feature but without sand. Does Spectra make that or can you recommend a grout that does? Thanks
Hi Sandy,
It is sanded, but it isn’t normal sand like in regular grout. It is very, very unlikely that it will scratch your glaze on the ceramic. If it does then the ceramic is not suited to floors or living areas at all. All epoxy grouts are sanded. If you don’t want to use it look into a urethane grout.
Hello. Great site. Thanks so much for the information.
My husband and I are installing 1″ glazed matte white hexagon tiles in both of our bathrooms with grey grout along with semigloss white subway tiles with white grout for the bathtub/shower walls. What type of grout should we ask our contractor to use for this job? I want to avoid mold in the white grout/white subway tiles in the bathtub. Thanks so much in advance!!! Your advise is truly appreciated.
Hi Danigurl,
The best you can use to prevent mold would be spectralock. It’s an epoxy grout. Any cementitious grout would work fine as well, provided your shower system is properly built. As an aside – using gray grout with matte white normally requires sealing the tile first so the grout pigments does not stain them. Unless you choose the spectralock, it doesn’t have regular pigments like cementitious grout.
Hi Roger,
I have a shower stall with tiles on the walls and floor. There are cracks on the floor-to-wall joints that are currently grouted. I plan on removing the grout and then seal the joints with caulk. Do I need to leave weep holes? A related question is where would water that got behind the tiled wall go if there were no weep holes? Thanks.
Derek
Hi Derek,
Already answered your nearly identical question on the other post. Posting it twice doesn’t make the answer faster.
If there is a sealed tile installation without incorporated weeping properties the water will eventually end up inside your wall cavity or in your floor framing.
I just checked my spam folder and noticed that the website elves are jacking around with you.
Did you get all your questions answered? I have no idea why the site is doing that to you, sorry about that.