In my previous post about thinsets I explained what modified thinsets are and how they came about. That post actually started out as this post, I tend to get sidetracked by beer my dog.

Unmodified thinsets, in one form or another, have been around forever. With the expanded use of modified thinsets, the unmodified version had nearly gone by the wayside with everyone except us hard-headed setters who bought unmodified thinsets and added liquid admixes to them – to create modified thinsets. I no longer do this for my modified thinsets, but it was a hard habit to kick. :D

The reemergence (I know – doesn’t even look like a word) of unmodified thinsets came about in November of 2001. At an NTCA / Schluter workshop the statement was made that the preferred method of installation over ditra is the use of an unmodified thinset.

Mass confusion ensued.

This has continued to this day with even seasoned professionals questioning if unmodified should be used, and if so – why and which unmodified to use. This problem is compounded for do-it-yourselfers who don’t have nearly the understanding nor material and product access that we do. It’s difficult to find and purchase. If it helps, it’s sometimes difficult for us as well.

So let’s see if I can shed a little light on the subject and at least let you know which ones to look for and where. This list WILL be a bit biased. If you’ve read anything here you know I’m a Laticrete diehard. It is, and will continue to be, my preferred manufacturer for nearly every tile and stone setting material needed. That said typed, I do realize that other companies exist. :D

Just like modified thinsets, there are different levels or grades of unmodified thinsets. This is normally measured by the ratio or percentage of cement to sand in the mix. The higher the cement content, the better the thinset. More cement, more sticky, more stable.

It is also, in part, due to the type and percentage of whatever retention product is in the mix. For most thinsets (as far as I can tell – ancient guarded secret and all…) a powder called ‘hydrated lime’ is used. It is the same lime used by brick masons in order to retain water in the cement mix for a longer period of time, thus making the cured product stronger.

So that’s how unmodified thinsets are ‘grouped’ or graded – the ratio of those three items in the mix. Now that you know that, let’s group them in order according to how they are graded and perform. I’ll do this by manufacturer since most people only have one or two specific brands available.

Laticrete 317

Laticrete 317

Laticrete:

Laticrete 272 is considered the premium (best) – then Laticrete 317. There is negligible difference in these thinsets unless an admix is added to make them modified. For use as an unmodified I prefer the 317. Although they classify the 272 as their ‘premium’, they’re nearly identical.

The difference in these two thinsets: “There is more portland cement in LATICRETE 272 and the sand in the

Laticrete 272

Laticrete 272

LATICRETE 272 is slightly finer so it is a little bit creamier.” (Thanks to Anita at Laticrete for this clarification) The 272 contains 25-35% portland while the 317 contains 20-30% portland.

On the consumer side Laticrete products often have a different name – you may be familiar with Laticrete MegaBond. That is nearly identical to the 317. I use 317 for almost all of my unmodified thinset needs.

Mapei kerabond

Mapei kerabond

Mapei:

Kerabond: This is considered Mapei’s premium unmodified thinset. It works very well for any Schluter product

 

 

 

 

 

Mapei Keraset

Mapei Keraset

Keraset: This is Mapei’s mid-range unmodified. It’s not ideal but it works if it’s the only available. Give it extra time to fully cure! If you use Keraset be sure to wait a FULL 24 hours, at least, before the next step.

 

 

 

 

 

Mapei keraflor

Mapei keraflor

Keraflor: The ‘economy’ level unmodified from Mapei. I would not recommend using it for any shower applications or any regularly used flooring surface over ditra. Best to find one of the other two.

 

 

 

 

 

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Custom:

Uncoupling Mat Mortar: This is Custom’s premium unmodified mortar made specifically for Custom’s spiderweb mat and other ditra-like products. It is difficult to find and has limited availability. If you can get your hands on it, use it.

Masterblend: Currently Custom’s only readily available (to my knowledge) unmodified thinset. It is available at most Home Depots. It’s a good sack of powder if you have a flood and need a makeshift levy. That’s it. Any reputable tile contractor will tell you not to use this for anything – ever. I’m one of them. The only really good thing I can say about it – It is an unmodified thinset.*

Custom masterblend

Custom masterblend

*This is by no means any type of intentional slander or slam against Custom building products! They make some great products. Masterblend, however, is not one of them in my opinion. And that’s all this is – my personal opinion. I do not consider this a viable product with which to install tile or stone over Schluter products.

 

 

Tec SturdiSet

Tec SturdiSet

Tec:

Sturdi-Set: Tec’s premium unmodified. A good unmodified thinset for nearly anything requiring one.

 

 

 

 

Tec full set plus

Tec full set plus

Full-Set Plus: Tec’s other unmodified. Comparable to a mid-range unmodified. It’ll work in a pinch if needed, but ensure full cure time before the next installation stage.

 

 

DitraSet

DitraSet

Bostik (Hydroment):

Ditra-Set: This is the best product with which to set anything over kerdi or ditra – it was specifically manufactured for that purpose. The availability is extremely limited, however. Most professionals don’t have ready access to it, let alone regular homeowners. So just plan on not finding this.

If you are lucky enough to find it you’ll feel ecstatic, like the luckiest person alive! If you don’t find it you’ll just think ‘Well, FloorElf told me I wouldn’t find it…’. See – win-win for me. Yay.

So in the groups above it breaks down like this:

Best:

Bostik Ditra-Set

Laticrete 317 (Laticrete MegaBond)

Laticrete 272

Mapei KeraBond

Tec Sturdi-Set

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Works if limited options exist:

Mapei KeraSet

Tec Full-Set Plus

It’s last call – find something:

Mapei KeraFlor

Go home alone and hold onto your wallet:

Custom Masterblend

So there you have it. The most commonly available unmodified thinsets and where they rate on the scale of quality. As I stated, this list is biased. The list above is the order in which I would use them if given the choice. Regardless of the order under each heading (Best, Works, etc.) this is how they are rated by their respective manufacturers.

Do not be surprised if you cannot find one of the quality products easily. They are not commonly stocked by regular big box stores except for the Laticrete Megabond. The best place to look for any of them would be at a tile supply shop. If, however, you are limited to normal big box stores, you can find some of the common products there.

Lowes will either stock Laticrete or Mapei. Home Depot will only (currently) carry Custom products. Menards normally stocks Mapei. Beyond those three, I have no idea what you may have around you.

You can always check the respective company’s website to find the nearest supplier. Since you will be looking for one of the more uncommon products keep in mind that just because you have a supplier near you does not mean you’ll find that particular product there. It’s always best to call the customer service line and ask them directly where you can buy the product you want.

One last thing – before anyone asks: adding more portland cement to a particular product may or may not make it better. Adding more cement to masterblend, for instance, will not make it comparable to kerabond. It doesn’t work like that. These thinsets, as all tile installation products, are put together in specific ratios in order to accomplish what the company wants. It may work, and it may not work. Unless you personally know someone in the chemistry department of the manufacturing plant there is no accurate way to tell.

ANSI Specifications

All thinsets, as well as any tile installation product, will have a specific ANSI (American National Standards Institute) number on the bag. This determines what type of product it is and what ANSI standard it meets. The number for unmodified thinset is A118.1. The ‘.1’ at the end determines the unmodified version. If you find a thinset you are curious about, and it is not on this list, look for that number. If it has A118.1 AND more numbers after that (with no mention of admix) then it is a MODIFIED thinset.

For instance, if it says on the bag that the product meets ANSI standards A118.1, A118.4 and A188.11 then it is a modified thinset. All modified thinsets meet the criteria set forth for unmodified thinsets as well, that’s why the A118.1 is on there.

ALSO! (I know it’s a pain, I live it) Most bags of UNmodified thinset have the A118.1 number as well as the A118.4, possibly A118.11 also  If it does it will plainly state that it only meets the last two standards (for modified) when mixed with the appropriate admix. Masterblend states that it meets all three – with the addition of admix (liquid latex). Don’t let this confuse you. They cannot legally misstate the ANSI numbers.

I hope this helps clear up a little bit of confusion about these products and helps you determine which would be appropriate or best for your project. As always, if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask them below. I answer them all. I’m just super cool like that. 8)

 

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  • Maz

    Hello Roger,
    Thanks very much for all the information you provide on your site. I have a question regarding porcelain tile on Ditra and use of combination of modified and unmodified thin-set. What if someone ( like me ) wants to have the best bond between tile and Ditra and has ample time to do the following;
    1- Fill in the Ditra squares with polymer modified thin set and let dry
    2- Back butter the tiles with polymer modified thin set and let dry
    3- In 24 hours use unmodified thin-set to bond #1&#2 together

    Would the above work? I was thinking the unmodified thin-set would bond to dried modified better than back of ceramic / porcelain tile. I would appreciate your comment. :!:
    Best regards,
    Maz

    • Roger

      Hi Maz,

      It would work, if you had the time. But unmodified works just as well when the tiles are properly back buttered. :D Really.

  • greg

    Roger – I guess I am a lucky as I found a distributor locally that has Bostik Ditra set :) Still waiting on a price – I know I can get laticrete 272 for $15. Is the Bostik that much better and if so, whats the price premium?

    thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Greg,

      They are comparable, in my opinion. The bostik is normally a bit cheaper, or should be.

  • Alek

    Roger
    I was hoping you could help with thinset recommendations. I will be using 30cmx60cm porcelain tiles for both the floors and walls. I understand that Schluter recommends modified between the plywood and Ditra and unmodified between Ditra and porcelain.

    1) Walls – The walls have JM GoBoard as a substrate (similar to Wedi Board and Kerdi Board). The specs for the GoBoard state both modified and unmodified as allowed bonding agents. Now where I get lost is between the GoBoard and the porcelain. If I use the Schluter logic then I should use an unmodified because the GoBoard, a “coated glass faced polyiso board” is nonporous and so is the tile. I purchased the Laticrete 317 but they state “317 Floor & Wall must be fortified with 333 Super Flexible Additive or 3701 Mortar Admix for exterior use, porcelain…” so it is no longer unmodified. Is there a better product to use? One rep recommended 254R but why do this if there is an alternative unmodified that is just as effective, does not void the warranty and costs less? I have Mapei, Laticrete and Bostik in the area, no luck with Ditra-set so far.

    2) Floor – I will be using Ditra on the floor with a plywood subfloor. This part of the problem will be clear to me once I have clarity on part 1 above.

    I tried to stick with the Laticrete products because of your positive reviews but I am having difficulty finding someone that can guide me to the right thinset. Since I have no brand loyalty I am open to using anything you have listed I just want to make sure I use the correct products and the tiles stay put!

    Thank you.

    • Roger

      Hi Alek,

      1) The 317 should work just fine – yes, it works on porcelain. Guaranteed. The 254R is 254 rapid-set – it is a modified thinset. However, the rapid setting quality of it makes it acceptable for schluter products, as well as your substrate should you choose to go that route. The difference is that rapid sets cure through hydration only as well, they do not require air to cure, just like non-modified.

      2) Yup, same answer. :D

  • LaNell

    As for ‘no grout lines’….that was misunderstood somehow. Just no spacers needed and grout lines very slight. Hence the questions about sanded or not and consistency of grout.

  • LaNell

    Thanks Roger. The Mapei I passed on at Lowe’s. Found Laticrete 253 in white.

  • LaNell

    Hello again Roger
    Just returned from Lowe’s with long piece of marble to frame ‘window’ and for threshold. But…there was a different (new and improved? ?) type of Mapei . It specified it was for porcelain and for use over membrane. Of which I have the maximum thickness of (NAC Subseal). What do you know about it? I prefer longer working time on this job but want plenty of strength to it, of course. Should I travel to get or have shipped in something else? OCD me wants it perfect in all ways :roll:
    As always…merci beaucoup

    • Roger

      Hi LaNell,

      I’d love to help – but ‘a different (new and improved) type of mapei) (I assume thinset) doesn’t tell me what you have. If you can tell me specifically what it is I can likely help. :D

  • LaNell

    Hi Roger
    I have had to work on shower in between everything else and the delay caused a problem. A friend went back for a second bag of Laticrete 272 for me. Same place. They no longer carry it, so I ended up with 254 Platinum. Ugh. Let me recommend against it. Dark…messy. I will head to Lowe’s for Mapei and not use with the cararra-looking porcelain I’ve bought. The flood test was the biggest worry but came out fine, btw. And I have cut the top tile for the corner shelf so don’t give up on me.
    Questions: I am not using spacers as the tiles butted together leave all the space I want. With such tiny space, for grout should I get sanded or un or does it make a difference?
    And still peanut butter consistency?
    Also…any ideas or elf tricks for cutting trim for the top of an arched niche? The ‘outside’ of it. (Yes I have an arched one.)
    Thanks in advance for the advice.
    ~L in Naples Fl

    • Roger

      Hi LaNell,

      The top of an arch – cut each bullnose in half and miter them to whatever the top of your arch angle is. That’s the best I can explain it. :D

      Unsanded grout – and yes, peanut butter consistency. Oh, and this: No grout lines

  • Roland

    Roger,

    I am installing cement board for my shower stall and around the drop in tub where it faces the shower. Couple of questions:

    1. Modifed or unmodified thin set for tape and float on cement board?
    2. Modified or unmodified between cement board and kerdi membrane?

    I believe i will use unmodified when installing the kerdi foam pan on the cement slab.

    Thank you again.

    Roland

    • Roger

      Hi Roland,

      1. Either one works fine.
      2. Unmodified. And if you’re using kerdi you don’t need to tape and mud, the kerdi does that for you. It’s built in. :D

      Yes, unmodified with the pan over concrete.

      • Roland

        Roger, one more thing. I see that you do not recommend Masterblend which is ok by me; however, I found an unmodified Custom thinset mortar called CustomBlend. So I’m a bit confused on whether i should use it. I found Mapei KeraBond at Lowes but have to order it and will not arrive for 2 wees so if the “CustomBlend” is good then i can proceed with Kerdi membrane now. Can’t upload pics of the bag but here is the URL at Home Depot. Thanks again.

        http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-CustomBlend-Gray-50-lb-Standard-Thin-Set-Mortar-CBTSG50/100166653

        Roland

        • Roger

          Customblend and masterblend are the same thing. Garbage. :D Sorry.

          • Roland

            No worries. Just have to wait for the Mapei to arrive at Lowe’s store. I’m sure i’ll have plenty of other stuff to do until then – doing lots of remodel throughout the house. :-D

            Thanks again.

            Roland

  • jon

    Hi Roger,

    Great site.

    I am installing 12″ X 24″ porcelain tile over Ditra (floor) and Kerdi / TruGard (walls).

    Unbeknownst to me; I went ahead and used Mapei Ultraflex 2 on top of the Ditra, and the first two rows of wall tile, atop the Kerdi.

    Do you think:
    1) I should switch to the unmodified thinset now?
    2) If you think I should continue with the modified?

    Also if you could recommend a good grout for use for this bathroom install.

    Thanks!
    -Jon :rockon:

    • Roger

      Hi Jon,

      I would continue with the modified.

      In bathrooms I always prefer spectralock epoxy grout, but it’s not required. Any good sanded grout will work just fine.

  • Chris

    I am putting in a Schulter Shower tray over OSB. I have Ditra-set…do I need to add latex to it? How about later when I am doing the main bathroom floor with the ditra over osb? Thanks great site…I just bought your design book…very helpful for a DYIer…

    • Roger

      Hi Chris,

      Schluter requires modified thinset with any of their products over wood. So yes, if using ditra set you need to add the admix.

  • Todd

    Roger, I am installing Schluter Kerdi over drywall in a shower. I am thinking of using Laticrete 317 for my thinset. I have not taped the seams yet and would like your opinion on weither I need to or not. In addition, should I prime tge drywall before spplying thinset?

    • Roger

      Hi Todd,

      You don’t need to tape and mud the seams, the ditra does that as you install it. The 317 works very well. You do not need to prime the drywall.

  • Darryl

    Hello Roger–thank you for a great site, and some very interesting reading.
    My local tile store says to put Mapei Ultraflex 2 (modified with polymer) under the kerdi mat (over water-resistant drywall), and Mapei Kerabond (unmodified) over the kerdi mat to set the tile into. The Schluter site seems to say, I think, to use unmodified for both. (This is just a 4′ x 5′ panel behind the washer/dryer.) I’ve read all of your articles on modified/unmodified, and I wish I had simply purchased Laticrete, which I have used before. Will the above be acceptable?
    Thanks
    Darryl

    • Roger

      Hi Darryl,

      It’s fine. You can use modified over bare drywall.

  • Kerry

    Is it possible to use unmodified Mapei thin set with porcelain wall tiles over Kerdi?
    Thanks!
    K

    • Roger

      Hi Kerry,

      Yes, but you’ll lose your warranty from schluter. It works fine, though.

  • Ron

    I am considering a project next year in replacing the kitchen floor, but still need time to recover from my bathroom green serpentine marble floor which required epoxy. I have 3/4″ T+G plywood in kitchen, which was supposed to be screwed and glued when house was built 23 years ago. By the number of squeaks, it was not. I plan to pull up the Armstrong solarium flooring, replace nails with screws, then install 1/2″ plywood on top with screws and glue, and install 1/4″ hardiboard on top of that with proper screws and mortar. I see by your site that a lot of people now use ditra. I guess the flooring installing methods have changed in last 20 years. My project will be much more than a weekend project for me, and kitchen will remain in full use. I figured hardiboard would be not be damaged by extending walking on it unprotected, but think that would be a problem on ditra. Is ditra that much better than hardiboard? I have not picked out tile yet, but will not be larger than 12×12″. Basically, I would like the pros and cons of each subflooring. Thank you.

    • Roger

      Hi Ron,

      The main advantage of ditra is that it separates any movement in the subfloor from the tile. For a regular sized kitchen the backer would likely do just as well as the ditra.

  • Duncan

    Can I install porcelain tiles (6″ x 24″) over Ditra with Mapei Kerabond? Do I need to add anything to it?

    • Roger

      Hi Duncan,

      Yes you can, and no you don’t need to add anything to it.

  • Stacey

    Your site has been very helpful, thank you! What brand and type of caulk do you recommend for the tile floor and tub meet? The tub and the tile wall? Thank you in advance.

    • Roger

      Hi Stacey,

      I normally recommend 100% silicone for any changes of plane. One brand is essentially identical to any other. GE or DAP are the most readily available.

  • Rod

    Hi Rodger,

    I up loaded a post regarding laticrete 220, it didn’t show up, so i resubmitted it. A screen came up that said I had already posted that message. I am scratching my head, because i still don’t see my post.

    • Roger

      Hi Rod,

      I had some gremlins in my comment program last week. The elves have destroyed them, but I seem to have lost a lot of questions in the process. I don’t have your question either, if you reply to this answer you will be able to ask again.

  • Rod

    Hi Rodger,

    Im getting ready to install my Ditra heat mats. I floated a low spot in my subfloor, about 10 sq. ft, 0″ to 5/16″ in 1′-6″ with Latecrete 220. The Schluter installation handbook says to use modified thin set over plywood, and unmodified over cement. SO do i now need to use two different types of thin set to install my Ditra?
    And, oh crap, I just found out that I was supposed to (I did not) use a super 333 additive for plywood. Do I need to grind and scrape the area I just floated to bare ply, and start over?
    Thank you for all your support!

    • Roger

      Hi Rod,

      Why did you float it out with 220? It’s not a leveling compound. Regardless, you should be just fine, just use modified over all of it.

      Sorry for the delayed response, my spam filter went ape shit last week for some reason, I just found your comment in the spam folder, I hope the answer found you in time.

      • Rod

        Thanks for your reply, even late it got to me on time as I got sidetracked with other things.

        I used the 220, because I was trying to achieve “flat”, or all one plane. I wasn’t looking for level.

        • Rod

          Is laticrete 220 modified? The laticrete pdf is unclear.

          • Roger

            Hi Rod,

            Yes, it is a modified mortar.

  • Kris

    I can’t find Mapei Kerabond or Laticrete, so here is my question:

    Can I use Mapei’s Uncoupling Membrane Mortar over my existing vinyl and under the Ditra, and then Mapei’s Floor & tile Mortar over Ditra?

    I have done so much reading and looking and gathering of opinions…just bought and returned modified thin sets based and am confused & frustrated.

    Thank you

    • Roger

      Hi Kris,

      If you are going over existing vinyl you need to use a mortar approved for that. Mapei ultraflex 3 is one I believe. It would be better to remove the vinyl – trust me on this, I learned that one the hard way. You can not use uncoupling mortar over the vinyl.

  • Ben

    I plan on setting 12 x 24 porcelain tiles with Mapei Uncoupling membrane mortar over Ditra. What size trowel do you recommend to get proper performance having filled the Ditra voids and back buttering the tiles? I want to minimize the height so I can match the height of my adjacent wood floor so I don’t want my thinset thicker than necessary.

    • Roger

      Hi Ben,

      A 5/16″ or 3/8″ trowel will be what you want.

  • MR

    Roger,

    At the risk of sounding dense, is the Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar acceptable underneath Kerdi, or is it for Ditra only?

    Thanks for the great site,

    MR

    • Roger

      Hi MR,

      It can be used for kerdi as well, it works very well.

  • Beto

    Hey Roger
    What do you think of the pro blend thin set.
    I am going to set flag stone over concrete and I don’t want the stone to
    delaminate, so I want to use thin set to back butter it.

    • Roger

      Never heard of it. If it meets ANSI 118.1 then it’ll be fine.

  • Jo

    Hey, Roger!

    First, I’d like to fangirl a little bit and tell you how invaluable your site has been. I just ripped out a bathroom tile installation that would’ve made you weep (1/2″ Hardiebacker atop the joists, no subfloor) and am getting ready to lay out a new floor that will, I hope, hold up. I get the feeling that if I follow your advice to the letter, the bathroom will outlast the rest of the house.

    Trouble is, I have a bag of that evil Customblend thinset. I don’t plan to use it to lay tile, but I had planned to use it between the plywood subfloor and the Hardiebacker. Is that okay? Am I tempting the Fates? Does it suck so much that Mongo the Golden Retriever will do a Buddhist Monk act in the living room? :eek:

    Help me, Roger-Wan. You’re my only hope.

    • Roger

      Hi Jo,

      It is just fine to use it between the backer and ply. It doesn’t need to stick to anything, customblend does that very well. :D

      • Jo

        Thank you for the quick response! I’ll put away the special canine fire extinguisher and the asbestos footie pajamas I bought for the dog.

  • Dan

    Hi Roger,
    I’m ready to install Kerdi on my shower walls. I have a year old, unopened bag of Laticrete 317 leftover from my last project. Is it ok to use it or should I just go buy a new bag?

    • Roger

      Hi Dan,

      Go buy a new bag. Humidity can get into the bag and essentially negate the ability for the cement to hydrate.

  • Tyler

    I have found this site very helpful in my tiling projects, but somehow missed this post before starting my first project with Ditra.

    Okay, so…
    I started the tile job and have laid down the Ditra and put down about 50% of the tiles so far, then ran out of thinset (underestimated how much was need to fill in the Ditra pockets). Then I found this post.

    I used Masterblend! What do I do now? It was :censored: to work with and caused extra mess, but will it mean my floor is likely to fail? My next step will be to pick up a bag of Kerabond (Laticrete isn’t sold in my area: Kingston, Ontario) and finish out the job. I was going to give it about 48 hours before laying the rest of the tile.

    Are there any problems with using a different brand of thinset? Am I going to run into issues with the Masterblend?

    I don’t see that I have any choice but to finish, if you have any tips on how to best do that, it would be great.

    • Roger

      Hi Tyler,

      It is fine to use a different thinset for the rest. I have no idea whether you’ll have problems or not. The masterblend will not tolerate ANY movement in your substrate, so you may be fine provided you have a very stout floor and absolute coverage beneath your tile.

      • Tyler

        Thanks. Here’s hoping my floor is up to the task.