There are numerous really cool mosaics and liners which can be installed as an accent into your main field tile to add a unique touch to an otherwise standard tile installation. These are products such as glass and natural stone mosaics, individual painted tiles, or custom accents.
The biggest problem with these, however, is they are oftentimes not the same thickness as your main tile – they are usually thinner. This is especially true of most glass mosaics. I usually solve this problem with Schluter Ditra. Although I use ditra as my example in this post, you can also use regular 1/4″ backerboard if your inserts are significantly thinner.
Photo 1
See that glass (and metal) mosaic right there? (Photo 1 – You can click on it for a size larger than a small dog) It’s setting inside the main linear mosaics I’m installing on a backsplash. See how much thinner it is than the surrounding tile? That’s what we’re gonna fix. When you have your tile installed you want it all to be on the same flat plane without either tile sticking out (or sinking back). The best way to do this is to have an additional substrate behind your thinner tile to bump it out flush with the rest.
You want to cut your ditra about 1/16″ smaller than the overall size of your insert. You want to make sure you have enough support behind the insert, but you don’t want it larger. (Photo 2)
Photo 2
Photo 3
In Photo 3 you can see where I’ve flipped the ditra upside down so the fleece side is out. You want to install your insert onto the fleece side rather than the plastic, dovetailed side. this is much easier, especially with smaller tiles, and gives the insert more adhesion on the backside once installed. The thinset will ‘lock’ it to the wall doing it this way.
Photos 4 and 5 show how the ditra bumps it up to the same height as the field tile. If your insert is a LOT thinner, it may be better to use the 1/4″ backerboard, although you can double-up the ditra to make it thicker.
Photo 4
Photo 5
Once you get your ditra and inserts cut to size (cut all of them at once) get your thinset mixed up and cover the entire fleece side of the ditra inserts. Make sure the entire surface is covered, most mosaics are fairly small and any uncovered areas may lead to just one or two pieces not being adhered well. Spread it just like these here:
Photo 6
Photo 7
Then place your inserts onto the ditra and press down slightly – only slightly! Before you firmly press the inserts and the ditra together you want to flip them upside down. Doing this ensures that the face of your inserts, the shiny part that makes people go ‘ooooh, pretty’, is completely flat. Flipping them upside down, then pressing down firmly, will get the entire face totally flat and get a full bond onto the ditra. It is always best to use a flat surface on the back, squeezing them between the flat surface and the flat countertop or bench – whatever your wife lets you use. Like these:
Photo 8
Photo 9
Once you get them all installed to the ditra, flipped, and pressed down firmly to ensure a full bond – leave them alone! Give the thinset at least three hours to cure and get a grab, ideally let them set overnight. Really, leave them alone. Stop staring at them. Go have a beer Pepsi and have some dinner. We’ll get to them later.
STOP STARING! GO AWAY...
Once the thinset is cured you can fill the dovetails with the flat side of your trowel, then comb on the thinset with the notched side and install them into your design. You can cut your main field tile with spaces large enough for your insert (don’t forget the measurement for the grout line around the mosaics). And tile away. When you’re finished you should have two different tiles, with different thicknesses, installed flush on the same plane. Like this here:
Finished
This method works for backsplashes, shower walls, even tile floors. As long as you have good contact with the insert to the ditra, and good contact behind the ditra to the substrate, you should have a nice, flush tile installation which makes people go ‘ooooh, pretty’. Like these here:
Ooooh, Pretty...
Ooooh, Pretty < See?
Roger,
I could go on and on about how amazing this site is, and how great it is of you to do this..but I know that you’re busy so I’ll get right to my question (Just know how incredibly grateful I am).
Ok, I have three niches in a vertical row and they have 4×12 accent tile in them; all went well. I am putting a glass mosaic waterfall accent around the niches, 2 inches wider on either side, so a total of 16 inches. So, there will be a glass waterfall with 3 niches in it.
Now, because the glass bit is sort of complicated, my husband and I decided that our only chance of having joints line up everywhere was to put the ditra on the wall first and then put the glass mosaic on that (so far the dog is not on fire…)
I know this isn’t the way you recommend (sorry!) but can you give us any tips to make the glass install any easier? We’ll be installing fairly small pieces (no more that 3×12). What is likely to be the biggest problem..the tile not staying, or the tile slumping, or it just being difficult to get flat? Any tips would be much appreciated!
(PS- we’ve never tiled before, but my husband installs custom cabinetry for a living, so we do have basic practical skills at our disposal…And I have lot of faith!
)
Thanks so much.
Hi Lacy,
If you have glass going down each side of the niches the grout lines aren’t gonna line up anyway. Do it whichever way works best. It sounds like you’re already doing that.
The biggest issue with glass mosaics is preventing thinset from squishing (technical term) through the grout lines. If you comb your thinset on the wall with the notched side of your trowel then flip it over and smooth out the lines (not remove thinset, just knock down the ridges) then install your glass it eliminates most of that. It won’t take care of all of it, but it will get rid of most of it. I would have a bucket of water and a sponge ready to wipe out any that does squish through. You want to make sure you get to that before the thinset cures, it’s extremely difficult to remove it without damaging the glass after it cures.
Use your grout float to embed the glass into the thinset and get it flat. Works like magic!
Hi Roger, in this example of using ditra to get finished levels flush do you use modified thinset between the ditra and wall then unmodified thinset between the ditra and tile?
He Matt,
I use whichever thinset I’m using for the rest of the installation. Normally modified.
Thanks for the best information on the net. I have the option of using hydroban for a steam shower or kerdi, but I have glass tile. I called Schluter, and they gave me a window of one week to 90 days cure time because of the lack of oxygen for the modified thinset needed for the glass. Hydroban is not vaporproof, but it is compatible with modified thinset. Do I need a vaporproof membrane since I am using all glass with an epoxy grout. It seems to me nothing is getting through the first layer to begin with. My preference would be to use the Hydroban. Thanks for the help with the dizzying array of choices.
Hi Marci,
I have no idea who, if anyone, told you it was a good idea (or even an acceptable one) to build a steam shower with glass. It isn’t. Ever. The expansion properties of glass are such that installing it in a steam shower will very likely debond ANY type of setting material used to attach it to the wall. Also don’t know who you spoke with at Schluter but they NEVER recommend installing glass tile over their membrane. Epoxy grout, while normally the best option in showers, is WAY too unforgiving to use in glass tile in a steam shower. It’s brittle, but the glass will crack before the grout does. Porcelain normally cracks before epoxy. With the expansion going on you’ll have a cracked shower in short order.
While hydroban is not vaporPROOF (very few things actually are, they simply have lower levels of vapor permeability) it is regularly used in steam showers, although it requires a vapor barrier behind your substrate as well.
*Glass tile should not be used in steam showers due to expansion properties of glass, definitely not as the sole product (all glass).
*Glass tile can not be set with unmodified thinset.
*If you use modified thinset over kerdi your warranty is void.
*Epoxy grout can not be used with all glass installations when there are extenuating temperature fluctuations (steam shower is one of those).
I would HIGHLY recommend choosing a different material for your installation. The pairing that you currently have is not a good choice at all. I know that sucks, and I know it would be cool as hell, but there’s a reason you don’t see glass steam showers.
I’m just a ray of sunshine, huh?
Hi Roger,
Love your site…Spent countless hours lurking and finally decided to ask since it looks like your ”the go to guy” out there.
I’m installing a ceramic vertical accent tile that is almost the same size as my larger 10×16” ceramic…The wall was not plumb and I had to build it up with a little bit of thinset…I now have close to 1/4” thinset behind the tiles I want to accent against…Would you simply just build thinset to match the height or MacGyver some kerdi or Ditra under. This is a shower stall and I’m tiling over kerdi.
Also, while I have your attention, is 1/8 thickness under my larger tile enough to properly adhere the tile to the wall…I’m tilling to Schluter Rondec and EKE profiles that are 3/8 thick…same as my tile. I’m using a 1/4 x 3/8 square trowel and I have to beat the heck out of the tile to flattened the ridges to have a flush ”ending” with the Profiles…
Thank you so much,
Mat D.
Hey Mat,
I would put something behind those accents. Trying to build them out with thinset gets extremely messy pretty quickly.
1/8″ is plenty behind your tile. You want to be concerned with complete coverage more than thickness. As long as you have good coverage the thickness isn’t really imperative.
Kerdi fabric works for this also
Hi Roger,
I tried using the detra idea to bump out a 2″ wide glass tile liner. It worked pretty well with one issue. Since the detra comes on a roll, it has a slight curve. After installed, the center of the liner is slightly higher than the edges. It’s not terrible but I’m almost thinking of ripping it out to correct it. What do you think I did wrong?
Thanks,
Jim
Hey Jim,
It’s sometimes best to roll it backwards to get the ‘roll’ out. You can also install the glass on it first, let it cure, then install it on the wall. This allows it to lay flat while curing and stays flat when installing. As to whether to rip it out or not, completely your call. If the edges of the glass are flush with the field tile you’re probably the only one who will ever notice it.
Roger,
I used your ditra method to custom make some inserts for the shower with glass tiles and it worked great. Your advice was to use a flat object and press on the ditra/tile sandwich which works great. I used some boards on top of the 24 pieces I created and weighted them down with the wall tile… all was fine. The only thing I would add would be to put some type of fabric or soft cover on the table first then put the glass tile face down. I scratched a couple as my table was not as smooth as I thought.
Can’t wait to post some pictures of this summer long project as it is winding up soon. Complete remodel including replacing some studs. Problem is your beer advice made it take a lot longer….
Cheers…
Tim
Yup, beer makes it last longer, but makes it a hell of a lot more tolerable as well.
I am using a 1/8″ glass interstyle tile 3″x6″. I want to bump it up to meet a 1/4 ” white subway tile . I read your advise and then went to the tile place to buy the 1/8″ ditra. The person there said I shouldn’t use the ditra because the orange would show thru. Also, any eventual discoloration from water, etc, on the wall might also show thru. I had planned on only doing a one or two row boarder in the bathroom and if in the shower very high up. I have the glass tiles and would still like to use them but “now am worried”. discoloration from the wall? I used the glass tiles in the kitchen with laticrete and they came out fine. I had planned to use flexbond thinset on them in the bathroom after reading your suggestion.
Hi Michelle,
The orange won’t show through if you install it backwards like I’ve instructed. And, any tile with proper coverage should only show the thinset, you can have a hot pink wall behind it and never see it.
Again, proper coverage behind your tile will prevent water from pooling behind the glass tile. While water will always get behind tile, pooling in voids is what will show through. Don’t let those guys scare you off.
You can also use 1/4″ hardibacker if you have the room, most tiles don’t need that much behind them, though.
By the way – Love the ‘ball bearings’ sculpture! Don’t know why, but it’s art, so I don’t need to know why.
Hello Roger.
It is so nice that you went to my website. One further clarification would be greatly appreciated. I have renewed confidence after reading your email.
Since the glass is 1/8″ and the ceramic is 1/4″ should I use “a (1/8” ditra) with flexbond thinset or use laticrete premium multi-Mastic Adhesive 15 for the row or two of glass? (I used that on my kitchen backsplash and have both that and the thinset) Thank you for your time.
Happy Thanksgiving. Michelle
Use the flexbond. You don’t want to use a mastic adhesive with ditra, it’ll never cure.
Hey Roger, I love your site and wanna thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us shaky DIYers.
Would you use the 1/4″ backerboard the same as Ditra, meaning thinset the glass insert with the sized backerboard first (waiting 3 hours), then thinsetting this on the wall?
Thank you in advance for any guidance!
Cheers!
Hey Wes,
That works as well. Any approved substrate can be used to shim out thinner tiles.
Hello.
I’m want to put a 2.5′ x 4′ penny tile mosaic “rug” on the wall of my shower. The rest of the shower will be subway tiles. I just wanted to clarify your advise to Sandy to see if it also applies to my situation. If I build the tile rug in small sections on the fleece side of ditra (to match subway tile depth) can I use epoxy or a tub of modified thinset? This will take me some time, so it would be nice to use something I can reseal.
Thanks much.
Valerie
You can use either. Both will bond well to the ditra as well as the wall substrate.
Roger,
So far all your advice has been really helpful, thanks!
In this sample of using the ditra to raise the glass mosaics you are pre-preparing the inserts that are of a set size. What about a border that goes around all four walls? Would I create one big insert, possibly 48″ on one wall?
I am using 3 rows of the glass, 12″ wide.
Thanks!
Hey Sully,
You can make them any size you want. It’s normally easier just to make them 12″ long and butt them together on the wall. If they are too long they become difficult to get into position without breaking the bond with some of them.
Roger,
Duh… I wasn’t thinking, they are already 12″, why make bigger ones? oops..
HEY ALL YOU READERS, BUY HIS BOOK.
Ok, I know I am approaching my question limit but you have gotten me this far and now it’s show time.
a) I have made all the glass tile inserts using the kerdi, 3 tiles tall, 12″ wide. 24 of them and they look great. Thanks for the tip.
b) I have been able to pull out the strip of 2″x2″ tiles on the floor I cut too short and they are replaced and perfect! Another save thanks to you.
I have a niche in the wall, a preformed one from redi-niche and due to studs and all it is not perfectly centered horizontally or vertically. I have decided that I would like to use a full tile directly underneath it (using 12″ tiles, it is 16″ wide). Based on that starting from the floor up it would go:
Floor
Partial tile
Full tile
Border
Full Tile
(bottom of niche)
Full tile
Full tile
2nd border
Full tile
partial tile
ceiling
I know that is upside down but…. the beer is cold…
Question: Many articles I have read say to start with the tile above the bottom tile resting them on a 1×2 or other strip used to act as a temporary starting point. I assume to make sure all is level. They go on to say then to remove the strip and place the bottom row in place. Well if I am going to get tiles to stick to the ceiling as your technique will allow surely I can get them to stick on the wall without a temporary “ledge”. And since I am using kerdi I dont want an holes in the wall to affix the temporary railing.
Long way of asking: Should I start at the floor and risk not having a perfectly full tile below the niche or should I start at the niche, go down to the floor and then around the niche and to the ceiling?
Or better yet, hop a plane and come knock this out, I have a REALLY big fridge.
Sully
Hey Sully,
That is one way to do it (ledger board) and it is used to ensure a level line, but it’s not necessary. Measure the size of tile for your bottom row and make a mark that height from the lowest spot on your floor you can find around the perimeter. Draw a level line on that mark and cut all your bottom row of tiles right to it. They may vary depending on how level your perimeter is. As long as you stay on that line your tile will all be level from that point up.
The method used to bond tile to the ceiling will actually not hold tile in place on the wall, different forces at work. On the ceiling you have 12 square inches of thinset holding them up against gravity, on a wall you have however thick your layer of thinset is – ~3/16″ – big difference.
Landed my first job Roger, I just shipped it. They are going to take a picture of the final install, which won’t take place until the first of next week. I’m soooo keeping my fingers crossed, but you are right about that tape…. It is fantastic!!!!!
Oright, can’t read the encryptions….
Hey Sandy,
Congrats! Glad I could help.
Roger,
I am wanting to replace a row of decorative tile inserts with a more modern one. What is the best way to remove the old tile pieces without having to take out the surrounding tile? This is in a bathroom shower and backsplash and is about 20 feet in total length.
Hi Susan,
Take a single piece out of the middle of it (if you can) which doesn’t touch any of the surrounding tile you want to keep, then chip out the rest working sideways (I’m assuming it’s a horizontal row) without putting any more pressure against the field tile than you must. Get a grout saw or razor knife and remove the grout between the insert and field tile first.
Hi Roger, I am doing the opposite of your article. My field is 3×6 subway tile using three rows down below of 1″ glass/stone mosaic mix and a band of six rows at the top third. The mosaic is the thicker in this case. They told me at the tile store that I could just push the mosaic in deeper the thinset to even it with the subway tile. Is that your recommendation and what thinset would be best
Hi Kimberly,
That’s one way to do it. A better way would be to use a larger notch trowel for the subway. Or you can put the thinset on the wall as well as the back of the subway tile, that will essentially double the amount of thinset behind them. Any good modified thinset will work just fine.
Thanks Roger for your reply. I was half asleep when I wrote the question, so I apologize for the lack of clarity. The travertine covers the majority of shower wall and we have mosaic (1/8″) thinner than the travertine. This is the band border that runs at the height of 36″ and again higher up at 72″. The wall behind all the tiles is dura rock and only the mosaic is set up with the ditra behind it . Unfortunately we found out the hard way that it would have been better to have the fleece side adhered to the mosaic first as you demonstrate on your website. (I didn’t find that page until after the fact…). I gather from your reply that this will be ok.
Again, thank you.
Hey Nini,
Yes, ditra behind your mosaic will be fine. It is easier with the fleece side out.
Hi Roger,
We are using a wrap around mosaic border w/ glass, marble and travertine at 8″ tall, set in between travertine tiles at about 36″ height in a shower and another at about 72″ height. Difference beween mosaic and travertine is little more than 1/8. We adhered the Ditra product with the fleece to the wall with modified thinset and the waffle side is adhered to mesh on the mosaic w/ same . You mentioned “I don’t like having that much ditra behind tile in a shower. ” Question? Why, and – Wondering if we need to use something different / or new method, take it off the wall and start over, etc.
Again thank you so much..
Hi Nini,
Although it may have happened under some strange conditional situation, I have never, ever told anyone that doubling up on ditra behind an insert was a problem or a bad idea. I HAVE told people exactly that – as you’ve quoted – when their field tile is not as thick as their liner and they want to cover the rest of the wall. I give that answer when, for instance on your shower, the glass and marble border was thicker than the travertine and you wanted to cover the entire wall, save for the 8″ stripe at 36″ and 72″, with ditra, then tile.
Covering 90% of a shower wall with a product not intended for use on a shower (any) wall is not a very good installation practice. I don’t like having that much ditra behind tile in a shower.
In your case, doubling up the ditra is completely fine. It’s easier with the fleece side out, though. Doesn’t make a difference, it’s just normally easier to get the mosaics flat.
Roger,
Your website is fantastic! I have some concerns about the size of Ditra that I can use on my walls to make up for a thickness issue. I have ceramic tile on 2 walls and we’re adding 6″ x 12″ mesh backed sheets of glass mosaic tiles as an accent. I’ve never used Ditra on a wall, but I really need to make up more than 1/8″ and I have had my fill of cement board over the past year so I’d love to avoid it at this time. Is there a size limit that you would recommend for the cutouts of Ditra? I have a total of nine 6″ x 12″ mesh backed sheets that I need to install on the walls and am concerned about the fleece falling off the Ditra along with my tiles. Perhaps I’m over-thinking? :-)
Thank you!
Hey Lori,
The fleece won’t go anywhere. If you’re concerned about the weight of the tile on the ditra then flip it around and install it right side out (waffles). That will lock the tiles into the ditra, but the fleece will still be holding it on the wall from the back. You shouldn’t be concerned with it, though, sheer force pulls the tile straight down the wall – not out away from the wall.
Help! Really hope you can help. This may be hard to explain but here goes.
I’m in the middle of a tiling project, porcelain applied over topical waterproofing. One of my spacers fell out/got bumped, & when I saw it the next day was too late to remove the tile to fix the problem. I won’t go into detail but the because of the pattern i’m creating and the variable sizes and shapes of the tiles i’m using the other immediate grout lines are not really a problem. But naturally this one is right in the center and site line. What i’m wondering is if there is a tool that I could use to cut/grind/saw the tile in order to “create” a straight grout line. I was hoping you may know of a very small diameter grinding bit that could do the job….. or any other suggestion. I do have space to insert something very very thin (like maybe a piece of thin metal strapping) to prevent the tile below it from being cut/ground/damaged in the process.
Hi Sherry,
You can use a grinder with a diamond blade, a roto-zip with a tile bit or a dremel with a tile bit. Those are the only three that I can think of. The grinder is more effective, but prone to accidents if you’re not used to it. Also be careful not to dig into your membrane. You can cut about 90% through the tile then snap it off with a screwdriver or something.
Roger,
I am installing a slate and travertine backsplash in my kitchen. Over the sink I was wanting to insert an old piece of stained glass (approx 14×18). What would be best way secure it to the wall? Large portions of the glass are clear and I didn’t want the thinset to show through. I thought about using liquid nail on the metal rim. My plan is to tile around it and grout it in. Thanks for your time.
Hi Kirby,
If the thinset doesn’t show through the wall paint will.
What color is your wall? If it’s white you can spread an even layer of white thinset on the back of the entire thing and let that cure, then install it to the wall with thinset. You could use a bonding material to the metal rim and attach it that way, but I wouldn’t use liquid nails. It may have a negative reaction with the lead. I would use epoxy which, once cures, is a stable, non-gassing material (it doesn’t stay flexible so no need to have any sort of off-gassing in the product).
Roger,
Thanks for quick response. The wall is a shade of yellow. Thanks for tip on liquid nail and lead, I never thought to check on that. The wife really likes the wall color showing through. I will try the epoxy. I am guessing some strategically placed screws with washers will hold it until the epoxy cures and then I can remove them and then tile right up to it. Thanks again for the advice.
I’ve been working in mosaics for a few years now, mostly name and address signs in stained glass. Lately a few people have approached me for custom name install in their bath or backsplash in kitchen. These mosaics would be installed after I have created them in my studio. I cut and glue each piece of glass (not purchased) to treated lumber for my signs. My question is what could I glue my glass to (don’t want to be working backwards and upside down for a name) that would be flush at install. I know there is mesh, but some pieces I cut are pretty small, plus its flimsy for shipping and it won’t be flush??
Hi Sandy,
You can glue them to woven fabric mesh like landscaping fabric or you can bond them to kerdi. Either one will enable a flush installation. Anything that will allow flush installation is going to be ‘flimsy’ – you’ll need to reinforce them for shipping. You can pack them between two sheets of plywood and tape them together tightly.
Thank you for your reply. I usually stencil my design/letters and I’m sure I can stencil the fabric, should I then thinset it to the detra or leave it for the professional installers? Also, is silicone a good choice of glue? Thank you again, I really am looking forward to trying this, just want to make sure it will be recieved nicely by any installer.
I would use either epoxy (best) or a good thinset like Laticrete 254. Another option is to lay out your design on a board or something, not attached to anything, then once you get it all together roll clear contact paper over the face of it. This will allow the back of the mosaic to be set directly to the substrate on which it is being installed without any secondary material behind it.
It’s known as face-mounted mosaics. We set it directly to the substrate with the rest of the field tile, then once the thinset cures we just peel the contact paper (or whatever surface mounted material it is on) off of the face of it. That would be a better option and you wouldn’t have to mess around with setting materials, etc. It would also allow the contractor to install it however they choose.
I love that, but I’ve used contact paper before and it isn’t that sticky, not for shipping long distances. Any recommendations on contact paper. Also, I get a little close to my pieces and letting a contractor deside how to install makes me a little nervous. Thanks you Roger!!!
If you sandwich the mosaic tightly between two pieces of plywood it will stay intact just fine. If you go here: MeshMountPaper.com and get some of the face mount tile tape it’ll keep it intact. That’s tenacious stuff!
Rodger,
We are tiling a 3′ X 5′ floor in a shower/toilet room. We found great 1″ mesh glass tile that we want to work in a grid pattern around 12″ X 12″ ceramic tiles. Of course, once we got all the product, we discovered that the 12″ ceramic and the 12″ mesh are not the same size in any dimension. We have worked out a compromise on the layout to get the grid pattern despite the size difference. My question is the best method for depth issues. Is it better to try the ditra behind the glass or to flatten the thinset under spacers, then go back and set the glass? Depth difference is 1/8″. Thanks, Nick
Hey Nick,
I prefer the ditra method because I can do it all the same day. If you have the time though flattening the thinset works well.
Thanks, Rodger!
Wasn’t sure if you could use it on the floor. Next question, we wanted to use just a single row of the 1″ square tiles. Ditra specifies 2″ minimum. We are planning on using the very edge of the roll (room is slightly thinner than roll anyway). There is a half ridge on the outer edge that seems like it will support one side of the little tiles while the first full ridge supports the other side. Smoking dogs?
Thanks, Nick
Yup, your dog just burst into flames.
Snuff him out and flip your ditra upside down. Install it with the webbing up and the open end of the dovetail down. Then you’ll have full support under the center of the tile. Even better you could cut it so you have 1/2 of one of the dovetails running down each side.
Rodger,
Thanks! We did plan on using it inverted. Guess I was thinking of it backwards!
Just to be sure I have this right: I want the plastic ridge to run under the middle of the tile? So the support comes from the mortar in the holes (dovetails)? Think I’m starting to get the picture. Mesh to mesh, center 1″ tiles over plastic ridge, do I need to back butter to get best fill before laying?
Sorry for being so dense, but want to keep SPCA at bay. Thanks, so much for the advise!
Nick
If you mean the mesh on the back of the mosaic to the mesh on the back of the ditra then yes – mesh to mesh. And yes, backbutter the ditra to ensure full support.
Hello Roger,
You have been an incredible help for my tile work that I have done on my house. And to boot, my dogs have not caught fire once!
I am working on installing glass mosaic tile on my fireplace and and I am just about ready to put it up. The one thing I am not sure about is the depth of the trowel notches. I have been using a 3/8’s for all the rest of my work because I was laying large natural stone that needed a lot of mud.
Should I be using a 1/8 notch for the 1×1 tile?
thanks,
Max
Hey Max,
I would use a 1/4 x 1/4 v-notch trowel for that. It’ll work much better.
Hello– I am purchasing 2 different tiles for my bathroom shower. Due to costs, I have ordered from 2 different places. It appears that my tiles have about 1/16 difference in thickness.
The bottom tile is a 4×10 white subway ceramic tile. The top tile is a 3×6 artic glass subway tile, this is the thinner of the two. I plan on having a glass mosaic strip and a 3/4 round piece between the top and bottom subway tiles. Both the 3/4 round and mosaic are the same thickness as the bottom subway, making only the glass subway thinner in this project.
I have not yet put the cement board up, I am still in the first stages of this project. Is there something I can put behind the cement board to build it out in the area that the thinner tile would be? Would I need to put mortar between that item and the cement board to ensure it doesn’t move? Also, what kind of issue would I have with this top area being slightly pushed out in regards to the transition between cement board and drywall outside of the shower?
Finally, would it be noticeable, or make any difference if I just did nothing and let the thinner tile be thinner? Is that something people do when separating different tile with some sort of tile trim?
Hi Jessica,
If you know where the thinner tile will start on the wall you can shim the backerboard beneath them out from the studs. Use regular drywall shims over the studs underneath the substrate there. You can also use thinset to build them out provided you’re using a good thinset. If the trim tile is the same thickness as the other tile then you’ll want to shim out the thinner stuff. If they are indeed round pieces that stick out from the wall more than the thicker tile then you really don’t need to shim them out.
Roger,
Would a layer of ditra behind the thinner tile help in this case? It seems it would be difficult to know in advance just where to make the backerboard bump out.
-Jim
I would, but I don’t like having that much ditra behind tile in a shower. However, being that it is in the top half of the shower there shouldn’t be any problem with it.
Roger
I am setting glass tile for the first time on a tub surround. The glass tile is a linear style in a 12×12 sheet with a mess backing. The glass is an accent band and the remainder is a 12×12 ceramic. The glass is nearly the same thickness as the ceramic. I am back buttering the tile and tried to do that with the glass but when I set the sheet it wrinkled like an accordian. I considered using 1/16″ spacers but that seems a bit tedious. I am using a latex modified white thinset. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Matt,
When you comb the thinset onto the wall for the glass flip your trowel over and with the flat side knock down the ridges so you have a flat layer of thinset on the wall. Take your glass mosaics and place them up there and pound them down flush with the wall tile with your grout float. The flat plane of the thinset both ensures full coverage without backbuttering and minimizes the amount of thinset which will squeeze through the grout lines in the mosaic.
Thanks Roger that really helped. I still had a little sag but that should improve with more practice. I am now grouting using QuartzLock2 in lieu of my usual epoxy
I’m having trouble getting the joints to look good. I have been cleaning the face of the tile and not touching the joints for 1 hour. As I rub the joint it is shearing the face off often deeper than I would like. Do you have any suggestions?
Yup, clean all of it within a few minutes. The longer you wait the more it’ll take out of the joints. Unlike regular or epoxy grout you want to clean urethane’s within ten minutes or so.
If you have any further questions can you PLEASE post them as a reply to this rather than a completely new, unthreaded comment? I have over 10,000 questions here I’ve answered and must search through them to find out what you are referencing. Just hit ‘reply’ beneath my answer or when you hover over this box and click on it. It will automatically place it in the appropriate thread. Thanks.
Thanks I will give that a try. Sorry I thought I had replied to the original thread but I got disconnected during my reply so maybe it was entered as a new question. My limited computer skills probably don’t help!
Roger,
I have installed bathtub tile with glass tile liner inset and am now ready to grout it. The tiles are 6×6″ light color and the inset is a much darker multicolor 1/2″ mosaic. I have grouted the 6×6 tile with a matching light color epoxy grout up to but not in the inset. I did put a small amount of grout in the inset and don’t like the look of the light grout joints in the dark inset so I removed it. My question is, can I now put a dark grout on the inset? I know you suggest putting the darker color first but I already did the light. I am using epoxy which is not supposed to stain so it seems like it should work okay. What do you think?
Thanks,
Jim
Hey Jim,
Once the lighter epoxy is fully cured (24-48 hours) you can install the darker without any problem. It’ll wipe right off the lighter. Just make sure to get it all off before it cures.
Hi Roger, We have had a poor tiling job done in our shower. Glass tile is not flush with wall tile, some corners of the wall tiles (12″ by 24″ size) are sticking out. The contractor is going to pull out the glass tiles (an accent line all around) and some wall tiles to replace. Will there be a problem with the integrity of the whole wall? Will the old and new grout mesh without seams/cracks? I have read your advice about leveling the glass tiles with the wall tiles. Wondering about pulling wall tiles out here and there or should I have them do the whole wall? Thank you.
Hi Jane,
The integrity of the wall will depend on a few different factors. What is the waterproofing method? If a topical it will be destroyed when the tile is removed – big or small tile. How was the tile installed, with what product? That will determine, in part, how well it is bonded to the wall and how easily it will come off. The coverage on the tile will determine the rest of that. If it has proper coverage, with the proper product, it’s gonna rip the wall off.
I’d let ’em try, but I’d also let them know that you don’t want a patchwork of substrate back there if they begin tearing the wall off, it may end up looking worse.
Thanks for the quick reply, Roger. I will ask about the waterproofing, I don’t think it was a topical method. Old tub/shower unit removed, new drywall put up, and an acrylic shower base. (house is about 12 yrs old) Don’t know material used for tile. It’s a month since it all was started. I feel sick about the whole thing! The project was purely for aesthetics…. Jane
Hi Roger, I am installing a glass tile backsplash around a work area in the kitchen – not near any water. In videos I’ve seen people use mastic and others use thinset for this application. Can I use tile adhesive with glass tile or must I use thinset? Is the versabond thinset I have okay or should I get another type? Lastly, can I use sanded grout or will it scratch the glass tile?
Thanks, Linda
Hi Linda,
If it’s glass you need to use a cementitious thinset, not mastic. Glass is impervious, the mastic will NEVER fully cure beneath it. You can use sanded on some glass, test it first. It’s dependent on the particular glass, I usually don’t recommend it.