Ditra vs ProvaFlex

Ditra vs ProvaFlex

That’s right, I said typed it! Bring it on :guedo:

In the last month or so there has been a lot of hype about Loxscreen’s new polypropylene tile underlayment membrane. That’s just a big phrase for plastic tile underlayment. It is being marketed as a replacement product for Schluter Ditra.

Since I use Schluter Ditra almost exclusively as my preferred underlayment for floor tile I felt it would be a good idea to give this stuff a try. I did not do this in order to find a replacement for Ditra, I’m extremely happy with Ditra. I do feel, however, that due to the way this product is being ‘marketed’ to consumers and since it claims to be a replacement for a product I regularly use, people may want a professional opinion about the way it performs. AND! if there is something better out there – I want it.

There is also another very good reason I decided to do this: there happens to be one person all over the internet claiming this product to be better than a silk jockstrap. I’ll save that rant for the end of this post but suffice it to say that, at the very least, I vehemently disagree with his marketing tactics. If you would prefer to start with that rant please feel free to scroll to the end.

I will attempt to be as unbiased as I can as a firm believer in Ditra and the mechanical way in which it works. So to understand the key points of this comparison we should first begin with a basic understanding of that. I will just give an overview of a couple of key parts but you can read the official line from Schluter Here.

Tile being installed over Ditra

Tile being installed over Ditra

Schluter Ditra is a polyethylene membrane with square dovetailed cavities and an anchoring fleece laminated to the underside. The Ditra is attached to your flooring substrate by embedding the anchoring fleece in thinset (modified or unmodified depending on the substrate to which you are installing it). The dovetailed cavities on top are then filled with unmodified thinset and thinset is combed over the top and your tile is installed to it. The photo to the right shows the tile being installed.

The key component  is the dovetailed cavity of the Ditra. See, the thinset does not actually adhere to the polyethylene (which, for purposes of not confusing anyone, and you know, not sounding like an uppity bastard, I will hereafter refer to as the ‘orange plastic’) This is completely normal and in no way compromises the installation – it is normal and on purpose.

Ditra utilizes a mechanical fastening rather than a chemical one. Thinset ‘sticking’ to the orange plastic would be a chemical bond to the plastic. Filling the dovetailed ‘waffles’ forms a mechanical bond by locking the thinset into the cavity.

Cross-section view of Ditra's dovetailed cavities

Cross-section view of Ditra’s dovetailed cavities

The photo to the right is a cross-section view of Ditra. You can see how the cavities are angled back from the top opening of the cavity. The cavity gets wider as it gets deeper – that is the ‘dovetail’. After this is filled with thinset and the thinset cures it is nearly impossible to pull the thinset out of this cavity – it will not move, it’s locked in there. That is what I mean when I refer to a ‘mechanical’ bond.

A mechanical bond is the main reason I use Ditra. This will allow the ‘micro-movements’ in the substructure without transferring them through to the tile installation. The entire tile installation becomes one large monolithic structure which is able to move independently of the substrate. This means that the joists below your floor, or the concrete, can expand, contract and shift with the small movements inherent to structures without compromising the tile installation.

Or, more specifically and simply, when winter hits and your joists expand a little bit your tile and grout will not crack.  Get it? Now I’m not talking typing about a major movement like a bulldozer crashing into the side of your house because  I someone was doing roadwork while intoxicated. I mean the normal movements of any structure under seasonal changes.

That is basically how and why Ditra works. ProvaFlex, according to all the marketing and hype, is supposed to do the same thing. In fact if you read through all their (online) literature (yes, I have) it is nearly identical to everything Schluter has published about Ditra. So let’s start with the similarities.

Both products are marketed as an uncoupling membrane (this is what I’ve described above – the independent movements).

Both are marketed as having waterproofing ability when coupled with the respective band or tape for the seams. However, ProvaFlex is not recommended for use outside of a covered structure – you’re not supposed to use it on your porch.

Bottom of ProvaFlex next to bottom of Ditra

Bottom of ProvaFlex next to bottom of Ditra

Both are marketed as having vapor management properties. This is a method of equalizing or dissipating vapor through the open channels beneath the membrane to prevent moisture build-up below your substrate. Confused? Nevermind, then, for the sake of argument let’s just assume that they both do that.

Both have an anchoring fleece laminated to the underside. The anchoring fleece is what is set into the mortar on the substrate to attach the membrane. They appear identical to me, and are identically difficult to pull off of the plastic membrane itself. I didn’t put a scale on it to gauge the difficulty, but it seems nearly identical to me – so let’s go with that. They’re the same.

Both are a form of plastic. Ditra is polyethylene and ProvaFlex is, well, I’m not really sure what ProvaFlex is. The online literature states it is polyethylene as well but the written literature included with the product states “Polypropylene material – Impermeable against other building chemicals. Easier to install and lays out flatter than polyethylene.” I do know that it did indeed seem to lay out a bit flatter than Ditra but that may be due to the smaller cavities in the top or the type of material – I can’t say which for certain. Someone apparently has their wires crossed somewhere and it is my opinion that it is the available information online because, well, why in the hell would you send erroneous information with the actual product? But, I really don’t know. There will be more about this in my rant. :D

So it would seem that both products are marketed with identical benefits. But we all know that without actual hands-on use I could market a baseball bat as an environmentally friendly hammer – doesn’t make it true. So let’s move on to the differences.

Top of ProvaFlex

Top of ProvaFlex

The ProvaFlex has an overlaying mesh or webbing attached to the top of it. I like this. It just seems like it would add more of a mechanical fastening to the membrane and stiffen up the installation itself. Whether that is actually true or not – I have no idea, but I still like the fact that it is there.

ProvaFlex with overlaying mesh removed

ProvaFlex with overlaying mesh removed

When I peeled this webbing off, however, I was a bit disappointed in how easily it was peeled back. I expected it to be nearly as difficult to remove as the fleece on the underside – it was not. It is attached fairly well but not nearly as well as I would have liked or been comfortable with. Maybe I’m just an anal bastard a demanding consumer – I don’t know. I still like it, though.

Ditra’s surface is comprised of 3/4″ square ‘waffles’. ProvaFlex’s surface is comprised of alternating 3/4″ circles and 7/8″ ‘flared’ squares – or whatever the hell you wanna call that shape, with raised circles in the center. Shape-wise (is that even a word?) I don’t think it makes much of a difference but I can’t say for sure one has the advantage over the other so I’m callin’ that a wash. I will say type that the ‘pillars’ created by the Ditra will have a bigger, more consistent footprint in contact with the substrate.

The thickness of both products seem identical but if you slam a micrometer on them I would guess the Ditra is just a platypus hair thicker. (A platypus hair is really thin, by the way. Don’t ask me how I know that, let’s just say it involved a midget and a case of scotch…or so I’ve heard  :whistle: )

So this far I would call it fairly even as far as a practical application indoors. If you don’t agree, well, start your own damn blog. I’m callin’ it even – up to this point. There is one major difference that is almost certainly a deal-breaker for me – the ProvaFlex cavities are not dovetailed.

The online literature and marketing hype – all of which compares it as an alternative for Ditra at a lower price – states, and my computer quotes “…with a grid structure of square, cut-back cavities…” Just a bit (ridiculously) misleading if you ask me. The shape of the cavities is most certainly not square and if by ‘cut-back’ they mean dovetailed – they most certainly are not that either.

This may or may not be a marketing ploy – it is not for me to say (yet) but the description can ‘technically’ be described as accurate if by ‘cut-back’ they mean the shape of the funny looking squares and by ‘square’ they mean the shape of the cavities in the z-axis, as it gets deeper.

Physical literature included with ProvaFlex

Physical literature included with ProvaFlex

This, however, only seems to be on the online marketing sites. The physical literature included with the product itself specifically states “Square Cut Adhesive Cavity” pointing to a square (not dovetailed) cavity on the surface of the membrane. It does not seem to me that the Loxscreen company, the manufacturer of ProvaFlex, is attempting to pull the wool over anyone’s eyes as far as comparing it as an identical product in form and function. Not as far as the mechanical bonding process, anyway. It appears to only be the online marketing.

Cross-section views of ProvaFlex and Ditra

Cross-section views of ProvaFlex and Ditra

The photo to the right shows the cross-view of both products right next to one another. If you click on it and ignore my shitty photography skills you can plainly see the dovetails in the Ditra (top) and the square (or slightly rounded) cavities in the ProvaFlex (bottom).

If you can envision filling the cavities of each product with thinset and allowing it to cure then pulling straight up on each, what’s gonna happen? Without the mesh or webbing on the ProvaFlex that little fill of thinset will pull straight up and out – the Ditra will not, it is locked in due to the dovetail.

I’m no expert or anything (yes I am) but it appears to me that the ProvaFlex’s mechanical bond relies on the mesh or webbing attached to the top of the membrane. The method of the mechanical bond is different.

The bond for the Ditra relies entirely on a mechanical process, the aforementioned dovetails. The bond for the ProvaFlex relies also on a mechanical process, the webbing or mesh attached to the top of the membrane. This webbing, in turn, is attached by means of a chemical process.

I’m unsure what this chemical process actually is. I’m certain it is a trade secret and they would send black helicopters after me if I were to divulge it. I don’t know – I don’t care. It does not change the fact that the bond with ProvaFlex is not truly and entirely mechanical. The entire bond of your tile installation relies on the process and durability of the mesh webbing attached to the face of the ProvaFlex membrane.

So when you decide which product you want to use under your tile installation you should take into account the method of attachment. ProvaFlex seems like a decent product for a small application such as a small bathroom without excessive traffic or maybe a small countertop. It is entirely up to you whether to use it or not.

It will work to an extent and with certain applications. I just did two bathroom floors with it which I now own. That means if this stuff fails I’m paying to replace them, so it better not fail. But with any new product someone has to take that risk. If it does fail I will absolutely let everyone know – believe that.

This product will not be a replacement for Ditra for me. Anywhere I can use ProvaFlex I can use Ditra instead. I don’t believe the reverse to be true. If you install hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of tile do not nickel and dime the price of your underlayment. Saving one or two hundred dollars now may lead to replacing the thousands of dollars worth of everything later on down the road.

I am not saying it will fail – I’m saying I don’t know. With Ditra I know.

RANT-RANT-RANT-RANT!

This is not a rant against ProvaFlex, it is a rant against particular individuals marketing ProvaFlex on the internet. If you want to know who it is – google it, this jackass is all over the place.

I have no problem with marketing a product. I do have a problem with the method it is gone about. If someone needs to bash another company in order to sell their own (or one they are shilling) it is not only disingenuous, it is absolute bullshit.

The marketing descriptions and literature available online from this particular individual seems to be at complete odds with the product’s own marketing information. That is a big red flag.

This person apparently has had a disagreement or falling out with the Schluter company (as well as a couple of other very large, major companies in the industry) and has taken it upon himself to attempt to discredit everything about them.

Under the guise of ‘Schluter is crap and they screwed me so here’s a better product…’ he attempts to peddle ‘Prova’ products claiming they are better engineered and cheaper than Schluter products. They are cheaper, no question. Better engineered? You be the judge, that’s why I did this.

This guy bashes everything about Schluter, attempts to make false arguments such as ‘thinset doesn’t even adhere to Ditra’ (no shit) then turns right around and copies their marketing literature and substitutes his product in place of Ditra and Kerdi. THIS is where the inconsistency in things such as the polyethylene and polystyrene differences come from. Oops, forgot to change that part – jackass. The “…with a grid structure of square, cut-back cavities…” quote earlier happens to be exactly how Schluter describes Ditra – which is accurate.

The descriptions, methods, and even chemical makeup of the product, is at complete odds with the product’s own literature. Why would that be? I have absolutely nothing against Loxscreen or Prova-flex, hell, I tried it myself. I do take issue with assholes attempting to discredit one product in order to sell another. I believe if Loxscreen wishes to own a decent market share of this industry in the United States they should prevent this asshole from selling their products.

ProvaFlex may indeed be a product inspired by Ditra but it works differently, people need to know that. Attempting to force-feed the idea that it is an identical but cheaper product is bullshit. You are taking advantage of people inexperienced and uneducated about what the product should do for the purpose of profit. Please kindly go throw your own dishonest ass off a large cliff.

Please, please research anything you plan on using for a tile installation. Get more than one opinion – always. Even if that one opinion is mine (which is right, by the way) go get it from someone else. The better educated you are about it the better off you will be.

Now that you know how ProvaFlex works you can make a more informed decision about whether the amount you save is worth it for your particular application. If you want to use it and it sounds like the right product – use it. Just don’t buy it from the asshole.

If you have any questions please feel free to leave a comment. I’ll help if I can. Please understand I’ve only used this product for one installation so all my information is based on that. I have used Ditra (literally) hundreds of times. If you are the particular asshole I’m ranting about – and you know who you are – stop taking advantage of people’s inexperience and feel free to go find the aforementioned cliff.

Rant over. :censored:

{ 428 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

  • Mark

    We have a sun room (with a full basement beneath it) we are going to tile and want to put in radiant heat beneath it. The room is 320 sq./ft. with two exterior walls with 150 sq./ft. of glass in them. If I use the largest Ditra electric heat system, which will cover 268 sq./ft. do you think it will heat the room sufficiently? Would I be better off tying into our boiler furnace? We live in upstate NY, Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Mark,

      Yes, that should be sufficient for your room. You can also use the suntouch heating wire in the mat, they have kits up to 400 square feet.

      • Mark

        Thanks Roger, I’m assuming the Suntouch wire will work in the Ditra matt? Will that effect the warrenty of either product?

        • Roger

          You will not get the schluter warranty, but it won’t affect the suntouch warranty at all.

  • Kevin

    Sorry, meant to say floor has NO flex or any weakness

  • Kevin

    I installed ditra to a 1/4 in plywood screwed and glued to doubled 1/2 in plywood with 2×12 , 16 on center joists. Tiled 430 sq feet of 6×24 wood look plank porcelain tiles. I used modified 253 laticrete to the ditra to floor and then 317 laticrete to ditra to tile and grouted with boost. The reason for the 1/4 in ply over the doubled 1/2 in. Was half the room had linolium that could no way be taken up without destroying the doubled plywood so we removed all but the glued backing in some spots, floor is level and looks great. So my question is is my substrate ok. Seems to have to flex or any weakness. And I’m 320 lbs. just wondering

    • Roger

      Hi Kevin,

      As long as it was not ‘luan’ and was actually plywood it should be just fine.

  • Darin

    Excellent comparison & write-up! I expect the differences in ProvaFlex to basically amount to trying to steer around Schluter’s patent on DITRA (http://www.google.com/patents/US6434901). I am an engineer (not in the ceramics or adhesives industry) and you are correct in your assessment that the principal means of connection of the mortar bed to the ProvaFlex is via the top webbing. This is, in fact, precisely why it is there. It may also have something to do with the different adhesion quality as compared to the back fleece. The difference in pattern is necessary to get around Schluter’s patent. You have to design something that doesn’t reproduce their claims directly. You can augment their claims, but you cannot straight-up copy. This will be difficult for anyone but Schluter until their patent (and any extensions) expire, because just glancing over the patent it looks like they did a good job at detailing multiple variations on the mechanical bond. So ProvaFlex has to use a different method all-together–the webbing. The molded in patterns, therefore, have very little to do with the isolation of the two surfaces–mostly they are a vapor channel for the substrate-side. I like the pattern with the circles–it seems to me that if it were implemented more like Schluter’s system (mechanical bond in the divots) that it might have better handling of diagonal stresses than DITRA. But Schluter has investigated something similar with other patents you can look up. I (personally) don’t like the mesh idea so much. While it might give an extra bit of strength to the mortar bed and help unify the entire upper bed, it looks like it might be more of a pain to push mortar through to burn it in. I don’t know, I haven’t used it. DITRA isn’t much different than grouting–a process even rank amateurs can quickly learn.

    Just my thoughts.

    • Roger

      Thanks Darin,

      I completely agree.

  • Chris

    Huge fan, you are a champion of the common man/woman tiler wanna-be. That said, I still don’t get this unless you are talking about using this stuff on vertical installations….. Thinset is cement and tiles usually stick pretty darn good! Why I bring this up is the bloody price of Ditra (big issue for DIYer, not commercial folk). And even CBU installs for that matter. I’m leaning toward the Tavy for ease in installation and price. I’d rather put my efforts into a decent tile installation than $pend so much on underlayment. Gravity will be my friend? Andt the Tavy will deal with micromovement, yes?

    • Roger

      Hi Chris,

      To an extent, yes. If you are relying on gravity to hold your tile in place, to any degree, you have an improper installation. :D Yes, thinset is cement, and tiles will stick pretty darn good – initially. However, although cement is extremely strong, it is also brittle, meaning it doesn’t deal well with movement (it cracks). That is the reason to compensate for it, because once it begins to move the crystals of the cement can break, leading to debonding.

      • Chris

        Just saying I see Ditra’s mechanical bond being of more use on a vertical surface where gravity works against one. I get your point about crack suppression, but as for bonding, that is where I scratch my head over the necessity for Ditra’s dovetail configuration when for ages the standard was the cold seam created by a mud bed! And it was sufficient for tile. Some people even promote creating the dreaded cold seam by prefilling the divots! Laying tile isn’t the same as building skyscrapers.

        • Roger

          Now we’re comparing tile installation to skyscraper construction??? :D Yes, tile directly to concrete will bond, if correctly done, for years. 40-50 or even 60 years is not uncommon. HOWEVER, once that concrete cracks, and it will, the installation will crack as well. The necessity of the dovetails is to separate the tile from the substrate, the substrate can move or crack without transferring that through to the tile installation. Something you’ll never get when going directly to the substrate. The thinset and tile does not bond to the top of the ditra, it locks into it.

          You are interchanging the term ‘cold seam’ with two completely different things. A bond to the substrate with thinset is a chemical bonding, as is a bond of tile to the mud bed with thinset. The bond to the ditra is a mechanical bond separated from the actual substrate, as is the mud bed between the substrate and tile.

          While the direct bond to the substrate will work for years, there are mosaic installations over a sand strata bed (the physical method on which ditra is patterned) which have remained intact for (literally) thousands of years. The technology works – period. If you don’t want to use it on a floor then don’t, but you can’t rationalize away the fact that it works, and works very well. :D

          • Chris

            I haven’t made myself clear. The two products you compare strive to protect a tile installation from the difference in the rate of expansion/contraction of the substrate, especially if it’s wood. As you point out, mud beds have been the prefered method and a layer of sand can be a buffer as well. Neither incorporates a dovetail, and THAT is my point. Both products in your comparison uncouple, just like the sand layer. And in my book, if you are going to use Ditra, prefilling and creating a cold seam is a huge no-no. Any mason would agree.

  • chad

    Roger,

    Sounds like a pretty fair comparison. But what about the big question of using unmodified mortar to set your tile with. With Ditra you need to use unmodified Mortar. If I remember correctly for warranty purposes don’t you need to install most tile with a Modified Mortar? I did read in the Prova-Flex specs that you can use Modified mortar above or below. I would hate to install a job with the wrong Mortar.

    • Roger

      Hi Chad,

      Tile manufacturers don’t give warranties. Tile installation product manufacturers do. If you want to use ditra you need to use unmodified, if you want to use modified you can use provaflex, spidermat, or stratamat.

      • chad

        I guess I was a little confused about some of your older posts, when you recommended some one to use Modified Mortar to set tile on top of Ditra when Schlueter plainly tell you in their specs that you need to use un-modified. Tile manufacturers follow TCNA guidelines and if you have a job failure the Tile manufacturer will check to make sure you followed their procedures, If you did not you are eating the job. I just have a problem using Ditra when Schlueter tell you to use Non-modified mortar to set your tile and TCNA tells you to use Modified underneath Porcelain Tile. Large format tile is another issue altogether with Ditra.

        • Roger

          TCNA guidelines also state that manufacturer (tile setting materials) recommendations trump their standards. For instance, if you use ditra and set porcelain over it with unmodified that is a proper installation according to the TCNA. Your warranty for a given installation is on the setting material manufacturers – not the tile manufacturer. They will only warranty against product defect.

          If I told someone to use modified over ditra (and I do – quite a bit) it is someone that knows they will no longer have a warranty on that installation.

  • Jeffrey Herwig

    Thank you so much for your website. I am rebuilding a bath including 48 x 48″ shower and your help has been amazing.

    I need some advice. I want to put down a heated floor. Ditra Heat is the easiest and is customizable to my space. Is it as good as Nuheat mats?
    I think Nuheat goes up to 88 and Ditra only goes to 80. Should I care about that?

    • Roger

      Hi Jeffrey,

      Not only is it better than nuheat, it is MUCH easier and quicker. It is the only way I will ever do in-floor heat now. No, you should not worry about the difference in the two.

      • Paul

        I just completed a Ditra heat installation and as Roger stated, it is an easy process and was very straightforward, even for a novice homeowner such as myself.

        But, i would recommend against using the ditra heating cable. Here’s why….I can definitely tell the difference between the max heat of the ditra heat and the nu heat (installed at the local tile distributor). I’m surprised that schluter maxes out the heat at 82 when other vendors out there go 10+ degrees higher. If we had to do it over again, we would go with the nu heat cable in the ditra heat mat. We’re hoping at some point in the future, schluter will come out with a thermostat that raises the max temp (also because the thermostat they currently offer is pretty ugly).

        • Roger

          I agree with EVERYTHING Paul has stated above. :D

          (Suntouch wires fit perfectly into the ditra-heat mat as well.)

  • Jaime

    Hello Roger,
    I am using Ditra for the first time in my small bathrooms. 16″ centers and 2×6 TG subfloor and 3/8″ plywood on top of that. I accidentally used unmodified thinset to bond the ditra to the plywood. Should I pull the ditra, scape the unmodifed thinset, and start over with the correct modified thinset or cross my fingers and hope this lasts for over 10 years at least? I will use the unmodified thinset for laying the long porcelain tiles down to the ditra. How long before the unmodified thinset would fail and what would that failure look like?
    Thanks for you help,
    Jaime

    • Roger

      Hi Jaime,

      I would leave it. You have 16″ oc and the proper thickness so it SHOULD be fine. I can’t guarantee it, of course, but unless you have a very bouncy floor you should be okay.

  • Rod

    Hello: n my eat-in kitchen, I have linoleum over 1/4 in plywood over 5/8 subfloor over 16 in on center 10 in joists. I will lay 18 sq in porcelain tiles and would like to know if I can use Ditra directly over the linoleum to lay the tiles as it would keep the adjoining floors even with the tiles (no step up or down). I have 3/4 in hardwood floor over 5/8 in subloor everywhere else in the house. I really do not want to pull the linoleum. I was told I could liquid nail underneathe the floor joists to the subfloor and brace joists to stiffen up subfloor. Would that work without cracking the tiles and grouts. Thanks….

    • Roger

      Hi Rod,

      No, that will not work without cracking the tile and grout. The linoleum and the underlying luan (1/4″ ply) HAS to be removed. And yes, I know that’s not what you wanted to hear, sorry. You can replace them with 1/4″ backer or ditraXL to achieve the same height you currently have.

  • Christie

    First of all thank you so much for all your info. This is a brand new build project and I’m to the stage of finally putting my porcelien tiling floor down that I went with the commercial grade good stuff wanting it to last a life time. I have 12″center floor joists with radiant infloor heating stappled up to the floor btwn the floor joist usig the flashings to help spread the heat. My subfloor that the flashing and heating tubes is attached to underneath is 3/4″ think. A lot of double up joists and also small wood blocks naied btwn joists for extra support. Would you recommend using the Ditra rather then any hardibacker or so on? I am wanting to return my hardibacker and go with the ditra because I am so afraid a screw is going to be accidently be put into my radiant infloor heating below which is tubes full of water and I also want what is best for the lifetime of the money put into my beautiful tiles that I spent forever trying to find the ones I fell in love with. This is a lot of work going into this house and I want to go about everything the best way I can for the lifetime of my money and hard work… This is all new to me and saving the money in labor rather then cheaper quality materials…
    Thank you again for all your help and info!

    • Roger

      Hi Christie,

      YES! Use ditra instead. Most definitely.

  • Jack Wolpa

    darts101@gmail.com

    I love your blog. Tell it like it is, & do not stand for any BS.
    The guy you talk about is probably a coward & likes to piss people
    off. Now, for my problem. I would love to use Ditra. Only, I can not afford it.
    I am going to be tile using 12 inch tiles. The problem that I have is simple.
    The substrate are vinyl square tiles, (9inch) tiles. I have been told that they
    are composed of abestus So. I can not remove them. Will Tavy model 8500 work sufficently for me.

    Thank you very much for your time & your knowledge.

    J.W.

    • Roger

      Hi Jack,

      Yes, the tavy will work fine provided the asbestos tiles are bonded well. The bond of your tile will rely on how well everything beneath them is bonded.

  • Guylaine Jean-Gagnon

    Hi Roger the Floor Elf,
    That was a very interesting post. I’ve been haunting the Internet to find out whether I need Ditra or not. My main concern, and I have not seen many posts with this issue, is cost! I most certainly understand the uncoupling theory, and I agree that using Ditra would hopefully elminate the chances of any porcelain tiles cracking. But I’m building a new house, where we have in-floor heating over a slab on grade, with 1500 square feet of tile. You can imagine how much Ditra increases the cost (if you’re good at math that is). I had not factored this in my cost estimate so I’m thinking (maybe not straight, but you tell me, you’re the expert) that if I leave my slab for a whole winter (I live in a cold Canadian climate), any bad cracking will have been done when I am ready to tile in the spring. Most posts are about installing tiles over plywood, OSB, or other similar product. Just wondering…

    • Roger

      Hey Guylaine,

      Concrete always cracks – always. If you’re lucky it’ll crack where the joints are in the concrete. Any control joints in the concrete need to run up through the tile installation, you need a soft joint in the tile above them. It would be beneficial to have ditra, but not required. Believe me, I know about the cost of it. :D I consider it very cheap insurance that you only pay for once. Completely up to you, though.

      • Guylaine Jean-Gagnon

        Thanks for your quick reply, like a lot of people on this blog, I admire your dedication to the trade. I agonize as I envision looking at cracked tiles for years to come. I have no joints in my concrete, the rationale was that : the rooms were not that big, that there was no garantee that it would crack where we want it to (and I quote you “If you’re lucky…), and the risks of damaging the radiant heat tubing below. The slab is now two weeks old, and I made sure it would cure properly by keeping it wet the first week. There is also 1″ of rigid foam all around the perimeter between the frost wall and the slab that will act as a thermal barrier as well as an expansion joint. Thank you so much for directing me to the soft joint discussion, I will certainly use this topic with potential installers to see how well they know their job :whistle: . So bottow line (I am also allowed to rant right? :-? ), what I was trying to find out is wheter Ditra was worth the money or not. It seems that in your opinion it is. The largest room I have is 14 x30 sqf (open concept dining room and living room). So if I put a soft joint in that room over Ditra (even if there are no joints in the concrete below?) and make sure there is a 1/4” gap at wall junctions, I should be ok?

        • Roger

          Yes, you should be fine.

  • Heidi giordano

    My husband and I are tiling his mothers two small stair landings (3×3, and 5×8). We removed 3/4 inches of plywood and cannot use any thicker when we redo the subfloor (cement edges that are not removable) is this enought of support for ceramic tile? None of the joists are more than 14 inches apart. The tile she wants is 13×13, composed of 8 or so smaller randomly placed square and rectangular tiles. Will using ditra be enough to make this a stable substrate?

    • Roger

      Hi Heidi,

      Yes, the 3/4″ with ditra will work just fine.

  • TAN

    Hi Roger,

    thank you so much for your article. your writing is so clear and easy to understand. I want to do tiling over the painted plywood for outdoor balcony 16X13 using Ditra. however, I am concerned about the install Ditra over the waterproof painted over the plywood. Do they have any primer or product that we can do a treatment for waterproof painted on plywood? could you please suggest any technique that we can put down the Ditra over the waterproof painted plywood for outdoor balcony? Can I use unmodified thinsets to put down the Ditra over the waterproof plywood after I cleaned it up?

    thank you,

    • Roger

      Hi Tan,

      Tiling an outdoor balcony requires much more than simply using ditra. To your question: no, you can not install ditra over ‘waterproof painted over plywood’, whatever that may be. You need to begin with a double layer of plywood totaling a minimum of 1 1/8″ thick. Proper flashing, drainage compensation, etc. It’s much more than tiling a bathroom or kitchen floor.

  • Paul

    Hi Roger,

    Thanks again for all this information…very helpful.

    I’m going to use Ditra when we tile our bathroom floor. We ripped up the old tile and took some shallow chunks of the plywood floor with it. The floor is flat and the shallow spots are no deeper than 1/8″. Do i need to level those spots out before putting the modified thinset down under the Ditra? Or can i put the modified thinset right onto the plywood and have it fill in the gaps?

    Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Paul,

      You can use the thinset to fill the gaps.

  • Jennifer

    Hi Roger,

    Your site is a God-send, and I’ve been returning to it throughout the investigative stages of our remodeling project …

    We are about to retile our foyer (remove existing 12×12 ceramic tile and install new 12×24 porcelain tile), which is at grade level and on cement slab (split-level home). Only one contractor has recommended an underlayment (he uses Ditra), while the others say it’s not necessary because our existing tile/grout shows absolutely no signs of movement — no cracks whatsoever. Do you think the Ditra would be overkill in this case, or is it still wise to install it?

    Many thanks for your advice!

    • Roger

      Hi Jennifer,

      I would use the ditra. Why not have the added guarantee that it WILL NEVER crack, rather than ‘well, it shouldn’t crack’? :D A little protection now takes all uncertainties off the table.

  • Don Youel

    Hello Roger,

    Have you seen the new Ditra designed to allow installation of electric floor heating cable within the same profile as the Ditra? The cable is laid in “slots” the Ditra, saving about 3/8″ of elevation and not have to deal with screwing fasteners in to secure the cable. If you have seen it, is there are problem with the roll out of the new product? I an not find in Toledo – or not looking in right place.

    Tjha

    • Roger

      Hi Don,

      Ditra heat is the product you’re speaking of. Yes, I have seen it and used it, the best way to do in-floor heat hands down! There is not necessarily a problem with the roll out of it, it’s just really new. It was only released to the general public about two months ago. If your distributor were to order it they would have it within a week I would think. Mine does.

  • Chuck

    :rockon: Thanks for the great information you provide and the non-snooty way you present it. I’m in the process (is 4 months concidered one process or 4??) of installing a 4X5 walk in shower in our master bath and your posts have given me some peace of mind since I wasn’t always sure i’m doing it the right way.

  • Jinny

    We are laying 3 inch hexagonal tile with expandable grout. We have about 1/8 inch difference in one part of the room. This is due to adding the hallway into the existing bathroom. Our contractor has put down some floor leveler over the plywood subfloor, but I am still nervous. I can run my finger over the difference and feel it. In your opinion(and remember you are speaking with someone who you have to speak to in layman’s terms), how should we do this? We live in a small community with not too many choices on who to speak with about it.

    • Roger

      Hi Jinny,

      I would love to help, but you’ll have to explain to me what you mean by ‘expandable grout’? I have no idea what that may be. If he used floor leveler then it should be flat, but it may not be perfect, this is usually compensated for as the tile is installed.

      • Jinny

        My contractor called it expandable, possibly just for a term I would comprehend. He said it had some flexibility to it, for use on older homes with floors that weren’t perfect. Your quick response is so much appreciated.(loved your article, by the way!) I can now sleep tonight, not worrying about it being done wrong tomorrow. Thanks again, Roger.

  • Brantley

    Roger, I’ve incorporated a concrete slab back porch to an existing closet in a remodel to enlarge the bathroom. Now I have two different “subfloor” materials, one concrete and the other 1″ plywood that have a butt joint.
    1) Is using Ditra the best way to prevent a crack in the tile where the two subfloor materials are and may move differently?
    2) Next, do I use modified or unmodified thinset for both concrete & plywood subfloors? (see your comment below)
    3) Last, is thinset the same as mortar?
    Thank you

    “Ditra is attached to your flooring substrate by embedding the anchoring fleece in thinset (modified or unmodified depending on the substrate to which you are installing it).”

    • Roger

      Hi Brantley,

      1. Yes, in my opinion it is. You do, however, still need to install a soft joint over that transition through the tile installation.

      2. I would use modified for both.

      3. Thinset is a type of mortar. I would need the reason for that question to be any more help than that. :D

  • Sasha

    A contractor suggested using underlayment on top of some existing tile to re-tile my bathroom. The bathroom sits on top of an unfinished basement. The house is 30 years old and I wanted to know if that is the proper way to install underlayment or should I tell him to take up existing tile?

    • Roger

      Hi Sasha,

      There are membranes that can be placed over tile for an installation, like greenskin or tavy thin-skin, but not regular underlayment. That word encompasses a lot of things. If he is speaking of something like regular backerboard then the tile needs to be removed.

  • Andy

    I am going to have 16X16 Travertine stone tile installed over a 6 inch concrete floor. My Condo Board requires an STC of 73 or > and an IIC of 72 or >. I have and read all of the literature on Ditra XL but can’t figure out how to get to those numbers. Can you make any recommendations ?

    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Andy,

      If you call Schluter technical line they can give you all the acoustic and impact rating classes for their products. I’ve not had any need for those so I don’t know what they are.

  • Scott

    I need to install 1200 ft ^2 of tile in a basement with several expansion joints. The Ditra seems best but it is very pricey. I have been told I can “tape over these joints” and use latex additive in the mortar / grout. The basement is very stable. Five years no visable cracks, so the joints are either doing their job or the floor is very stable or both.

    Is there a product capable of this “taping”, what is it and how should it be installed? I am assuming it would be cheaper than the Ditrs since it would be so much less area, the tappered surface at the joints might also be a difficulty?,

    Thanks.

    ST

    • Roger

      Hi Trevor,

      You can with a sheet crack isolation membrane. Noble has one as does mapei. I believe most manufacturers do. You also need to carry those joints up through the tile with a soft joint.

  • Teresa West

    Our contractor suggest that we use Ditra for our bathroom. However, we have chosen to use the 1″ hexagon black and white mosaic floor tiles. The Schluter official information says not to use Ditra for this small a tile, but when we were at the tile shop, they said that it was okay as long as we use a modified thinset and just allow for the extra time to dry. They even called the Schluter rep and he said that this would work. Reading various sites, other folks have suggested pre-filling the holes (I think skimming?) and letting dry overnight then tiling as usual with the unmodified thinset the next day. Finally, other people say just not to use the Ditra. What would you suggest?

    • Roger

      Hi Teresa,

      I would not use ditra for any tile under 2″ square. The problem is not the thinset curing correctly, or type of thinset, or anything like that. It’s the size of the cavities in the ditra. If you have tile smaller than 2″ square you may have edges of the tile which only set on the raised ridges and aren’t bonded into the cavity. A 1″ tile can be centered directly over the cavity which essentially leaves every edge of that particular tile unsupported.

  • ann

    Hello: I have gotten 3 estimates to lay stone tile. Each contractor wants to use a different underlayment. One wants to use 1/4 inch Durock with thinset, one wants to use Fiberock, and one wants to use Schluter Ditra. What are your thoughts on this? I am leaning towards the contractor that wants to use the Schluter Ditra, but would be interested in your opinion. Thanks…

    • Roger

      Hi Ann,

      Any of the three works just fine. Go with the contractor you feel most comfortable with. If you want a specific underlayment, like ditra, then go with that one.