Ditra vs ProvaFlex

Ditra vs ProvaFlex

That’s right, I said typed it! Bring it on :guedo:

In the last month or so there has been a lot of hype about Loxscreen’s new polypropylene tile underlayment membrane. That’s just a big phrase for plastic tile underlayment. It is being marketed as a replacement product for Schluter Ditra.

Since I use Schluter Ditra almost exclusively as my preferred underlayment for floor tile I felt it would be a good idea to give this stuff a try. I did not do this in order to find a replacement for Ditra, I’m extremely happy with Ditra. I do feel, however, that due to the way this product is being ‘marketed’ to consumers and since it claims to be a replacement for a product I regularly use, people may want a professional opinion about the way it performs. AND! if there is something better out there – I want it.

There is also another very good reason I decided to do this: there happens to be one person all over the internet claiming this product to be better than a silk jockstrap. I’ll save that rant for the end of this post but suffice it to say that, at the very least, I vehemently disagree with his marketing tactics. If you would prefer to start with that rant please feel free to scroll to the end.

I will attempt to be as unbiased as I can as a firm believer in Ditra and the mechanical way in which it works. So to understand the key points of this comparison we should first begin with a basic understanding of that. I will just give an overview of a couple of key parts but you can read the official line from Schluter Here.

Tile being installed over Ditra

Tile being installed over Ditra

Schluter Ditra is a polyethylene membrane with square dovetailed cavities and an anchoring fleece laminated to the underside. The Ditra is attached to your flooring substrate by embedding the anchoring fleece in thinset (modified or unmodified depending on the substrate to which you are installing it). The dovetailed cavities on top are then filled with unmodified thinset and thinset is combed over the top and your tile is installed to it. The photo to the right shows the tile being installed.

The key component  is the dovetailed cavity of the Ditra. See, the thinset does not actually adhere to the polyethylene (which, for purposes of not confusing anyone, and you know, not sounding like an uppity bastard, I will hereafter refer to as the ‘orange plastic’) This is completely normal and in no way compromises the installation – it is normal and on purpose.

Ditra utilizes a mechanical fastening rather than a chemical one. Thinset ‘sticking’ to the orange plastic would be a chemical bond to the plastic. Filling the dovetailed ‘waffles’ forms a mechanical bond by locking the thinset into the cavity.

Cross-section view of Ditra's dovetailed cavities

Cross-section view of Ditra’s dovetailed cavities

The photo to the right is a cross-section view of Ditra. You can see how the cavities are angled back from the top opening of the cavity. The cavity gets wider as it gets deeper – that is the ‘dovetail’. After this is filled with thinset and the thinset cures it is nearly impossible to pull the thinset out of this cavity – it will not move, it’s locked in there. That is what I mean when I refer to a ‘mechanical’ bond.

A mechanical bond is the main reason I use Ditra. This will allow the ‘micro-movements’ in the substructure without transferring them through to the tile installation. The entire tile installation becomes one large monolithic structure which is able to move independently of the substrate. This means that the joists below your floor, or the concrete, can expand, contract and shift with the small movements inherent to structures without compromising the tile installation.

Or, more specifically and simply, when winter hits and your joists expand a little bit your tile and grout will not crack.  Get it? Now I’m not talking typing about a major movement like a bulldozer crashing into the side of your house because  I someone was doing roadwork while intoxicated. I mean the normal movements of any structure under seasonal changes.

That is basically how and why Ditra works. ProvaFlex, according to all the marketing and hype, is supposed to do the same thing. In fact if you read through all their (online) literature (yes, I have) it is nearly identical to everything Schluter has published about Ditra. So let’s start with the similarities.

Both products are marketed as an uncoupling membrane (this is what I’ve described above – the independent movements).

Both are marketed as having waterproofing ability when coupled with the respective band or tape for the seams. However, ProvaFlex is not recommended for use outside of a covered structure – you’re not supposed to use it on your porch.

Bottom of ProvaFlex next to bottom of Ditra

Bottom of ProvaFlex next to bottom of Ditra

Both are marketed as having vapor management properties. This is a method of equalizing or dissipating vapor through the open channels beneath the membrane to prevent moisture build-up below your substrate. Confused? Nevermind, then, for the sake of argument let’s just assume that they both do that.

Both have an anchoring fleece laminated to the underside. The anchoring fleece is what is set into the mortar on the substrate to attach the membrane. They appear identical to me, and are identically difficult to pull off of the plastic membrane itself. I didn’t put a scale on it to gauge the difficulty, but it seems nearly identical to me – so let’s go with that. They’re the same.

Both are a form of plastic. Ditra is polyethylene and ProvaFlex is, well, I’m not really sure what ProvaFlex is. The online literature states it is polyethylene as well but the written literature included with the product states “Polypropylene material – Impermeable against other building chemicals. Easier to install and lays out flatter than polyethylene.” I do know that it did indeed seem to lay out a bit flatter than Ditra but that may be due to the smaller cavities in the top or the type of material – I can’t say which for certain. Someone apparently has their wires crossed somewhere and it is my opinion that it is the available information online because, well, why in the hell would you send erroneous information with the actual product? But, I really don’t know. There will be more about this in my rant. :D

So it would seem that both products are marketed with identical benefits. But we all know that without actual hands-on use I could market a baseball bat as an environmentally friendly hammer – doesn’t make it true. So let’s move on to the differences.

Top of ProvaFlex

Top of ProvaFlex

The ProvaFlex has an overlaying mesh or webbing attached to the top of it. I like this. It just seems like it would add more of a mechanical fastening to the membrane and stiffen up the installation itself. Whether that is actually true or not – I have no idea, but I still like the fact that it is there.

ProvaFlex with overlaying mesh removed

ProvaFlex with overlaying mesh removed

When I peeled this webbing off, however, I was a bit disappointed in how easily it was peeled back. I expected it to be nearly as difficult to remove as the fleece on the underside – it was not. It is attached fairly well but not nearly as well as I would have liked or been comfortable with. Maybe I’m just an anal bastard a demanding consumer – I don’t know. I still like it, though.

Ditra’s surface is comprised of 3/4″ square ‘waffles’. ProvaFlex’s surface is comprised of alternating 3/4″ circles and 7/8″ ‘flared’ squares – or whatever the hell you wanna call that shape, with raised circles in the center. Shape-wise (is that even a word?) I don’t think it makes much of a difference but I can’t say for sure one has the advantage over the other so I’m callin’ that a wash. I will say type that the ‘pillars’ created by the Ditra will have a bigger, more consistent footprint in contact with the substrate.

The thickness of both products seem identical but if you slam a micrometer on them I would guess the Ditra is just a platypus hair thicker. (A platypus hair is really thin, by the way. Don’t ask me how I know that, let’s just say it involved a midget and a case of scotch…or so I’ve heard  :whistle: )

So this far I would call it fairly even as far as a practical application indoors. If you don’t agree, well, start your own damn blog. I’m callin’ it even – up to this point. There is one major difference that is almost certainly a deal-breaker for me – the ProvaFlex cavities are not dovetailed.

The online literature and marketing hype – all of which compares it as an alternative for Ditra at a lower price – states, and my computer quotes “…with a grid structure of square, cut-back cavities…” Just a bit (ridiculously) misleading if you ask me. The shape of the cavities is most certainly not square and if by ‘cut-back’ they mean dovetailed – they most certainly are not that either.

This may or may not be a marketing ploy – it is not for me to say (yet) but the description can ‘technically’ be described as accurate if by ‘cut-back’ they mean the shape of the funny looking squares and by ‘square’ they mean the shape of the cavities in the z-axis, as it gets deeper.

Physical literature included with ProvaFlex

Physical literature included with ProvaFlex

This, however, only seems to be on the online marketing sites. The physical literature included with the product itself specifically states “Square Cut Adhesive Cavity” pointing to a square (not dovetailed) cavity on the surface of the membrane. It does not seem to me that the Loxscreen company, the manufacturer of ProvaFlex, is attempting to pull the wool over anyone’s eyes as far as comparing it as an identical product in form and function. Not as far as the mechanical bonding process, anyway. It appears to only be the online marketing.

Cross-section views of ProvaFlex and Ditra

Cross-section views of ProvaFlex and Ditra

The photo to the right shows the cross-view of both products right next to one another. If you click on it and ignore my shitty photography skills you can plainly see the dovetails in the Ditra (top) and the square (or slightly rounded) cavities in the ProvaFlex (bottom).

If you can envision filling the cavities of each product with thinset and allowing it to cure then pulling straight up on each, what’s gonna happen? Without the mesh or webbing on the ProvaFlex that little fill of thinset will pull straight up and out – the Ditra will not, it is locked in due to the dovetail.

I’m no expert or anything (yes I am) but it appears to me that the ProvaFlex’s mechanical bond relies on the mesh or webbing attached to the top of the membrane. The method of the mechanical bond is different.

The bond for the Ditra relies entirely on a mechanical process, the aforementioned dovetails. The bond for the ProvaFlex relies also on a mechanical process, the webbing or mesh attached to the top of the membrane. This webbing, in turn, is attached by means of a chemical process.

I’m unsure what this chemical process actually is. I’m certain it is a trade secret and they would send black helicopters after me if I were to divulge it. I don’t know – I don’t care. It does not change the fact that the bond with ProvaFlex is not truly and entirely mechanical. The entire bond of your tile installation relies on the process and durability of the mesh webbing attached to the face of the ProvaFlex membrane.

So when you decide which product you want to use under your tile installation you should take into account the method of attachment. ProvaFlex seems like a decent product for a small application such as a small bathroom without excessive traffic or maybe a small countertop. It is entirely up to you whether to use it or not.

It will work to an extent and with certain applications. I just did two bathroom floors with it which I now own. That means if this stuff fails I’m paying to replace them, so it better not fail. But with any new product someone has to take that risk. If it does fail I will absolutely let everyone know – believe that.

This product will not be a replacement for Ditra for me. Anywhere I can use ProvaFlex I can use Ditra instead. I don’t believe the reverse to be true. If you install hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of tile do not nickel and dime the price of your underlayment. Saving one or two hundred dollars now may lead to replacing the thousands of dollars worth of everything later on down the road.

I am not saying it will fail – I’m saying I don’t know. With Ditra I know.

RANT-RANT-RANT-RANT!

This is not a rant against ProvaFlex, it is a rant against particular individuals marketing ProvaFlex on the internet. If you want to know who it is – google it, this jackass is all over the place.

I have no problem with marketing a product. I do have a problem with the method it is gone about. If someone needs to bash another company in order to sell their own (or one they are shilling) it is not only disingenuous, it is absolute bullshit.

The marketing descriptions and literature available online from this particular individual seems to be at complete odds with the product’s own marketing information. That is a big red flag.

This person apparently has had a disagreement or falling out with the Schluter company (as well as a couple of other very large, major companies in the industry) and has taken it upon himself to attempt to discredit everything about them.

Under the guise of ‘Schluter is crap and they screwed me so here’s a better product…’ he attempts to peddle ‘Prova’ products claiming they are better engineered and cheaper than Schluter products. They are cheaper, no question. Better engineered? You be the judge, that’s why I did this.

This guy bashes everything about Schluter, attempts to make false arguments such as ‘thinset doesn’t even adhere to Ditra’ (no shit) then turns right around and copies their marketing literature and substitutes his product in place of Ditra and Kerdi. THIS is where the inconsistency in things such as the polyethylene and polystyrene differences come from. Oops, forgot to change that part – jackass. The “…with a grid structure of square, cut-back cavities…” quote earlier happens to be exactly how Schluter describes Ditra – which is accurate.

The descriptions, methods, and even chemical makeup of the product, is at complete odds with the product’s own literature. Why would that be? I have absolutely nothing against Loxscreen or Prova-flex, hell, I tried it myself. I do take issue with assholes attempting to discredit one product in order to sell another. I believe if Loxscreen wishes to own a decent market share of this industry in the United States they should prevent this asshole from selling their products.

ProvaFlex may indeed be a product inspired by Ditra but it works differently, people need to know that. Attempting to force-feed the idea that it is an identical but cheaper product is bullshit. You are taking advantage of people inexperienced and uneducated about what the product should do for the purpose of profit. Please kindly go throw your own dishonest ass off a large cliff.

Please, please research anything you plan on using for a tile installation. Get more than one opinion – always. Even if that one opinion is mine (which is right, by the way) go get it from someone else. The better educated you are about it the better off you will be.

Now that you know how ProvaFlex works you can make a more informed decision about whether the amount you save is worth it for your particular application. If you want to use it and it sounds like the right product – use it. Just don’t buy it from the asshole.

If you have any questions please feel free to leave a comment. I’ll help if I can. Please understand I’ve only used this product for one installation so all my information is based on that. I have used Ditra (literally) hundreds of times. If you are the particular asshole I’m ranting about – and you know who you are – stop taking advantage of people’s inexperience and feel free to go find the aforementioned cliff.

Rant over. :censored:

{ 428 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

  • Sara

    Hi Roger,

    Great article – thanks for posting. One of your commenters above was asking about Ditra in an outdoor application and you were addressing bonding to OSB vs plywood.

    We have an upstairs deck over a downstairs sliding glass door/porch area. The deck has 12″ o.c. joists, with Advantec on top. We planned to install Schluter’s “Wood Substrate – Over Unoccupied Space” system because the “over occupied space” is too thick and will come above our door thresholds upstairs. We however want an EPDM membrane and flashing due to our brick siding and to make it extra waterproof.

    Do you see any problem with this system in our application with the added EPDM membrane? We our concerned no glue or bonding material will adhere to the Advantec. Would plywood be better?

    • Roger

      Hi Sara,

      I don’t see a problem at all with it. The advantec will be just fine.

  • Carol

    My small bathroom plywood subfloor was stained so I primed it with Zissner BIN around the toilet flange and Zissner 123 Primer everywhere else. The subfloor was primed weeks ago, so the Zissner is fully cured and the stains and odors are gone. I thought I was going to use CBU. Now I realize my transition is too big, so I want to use Ditra. I am concerned about the bond between the unmodified thin set to the Zissner primed subfloor. What should I do?

    • Roger

      Hi Carol,

      I don’t know. I’ve never used that product for anything. Your best option would be to contact the manufacturer of your particular thinset (all thinset bags have a number for the tech dept.) and ask them. They’ll be able to tell you whether it’ll bond well or not.

      Also, since your subfloor is wood you NEED TO USE MODIFIED thinset under the ditra, not unmodified.

      • Carol

        Hi Roger,
        OK, so I’ve used modified thinset under ditra, now I’m tiling with Porcelain tiles. I’ve read I should use unmodified thin set on top of ditra to set tiles. Is this correct?

        • Roger

          Hi Carol,

          Yes, unmodified is correct.

  • Debra

    Don’t know how I stumbled across your information, but am I ever so glad I did. :dance: We have an odd shaped walk in shower add on and trying to find the right shower membrane is like trying to find a needle in a 100 acre bale of hay. The shower is about 76inch x 66inch ( on the second story of the house) I was looking into the Schluter system and then found info about the provaflex, and also debating on the classic mud. The mud just seems to be allot of work and will raise the flooring, but maybe better due to the odd size of the shower? If I could get you to install the shower floor (can I?) :D what would you do if it was your home? :shades:
    Thanks :corn:

    • Roger

      Hi Debra,

      I would use a mud pan. I don’t use the pre-formed pans because they never fit the showers I build. You can use kerdi or a liquid membrane over it if you want a topical waterproofing. You can get me to install a shower floor if you are in Northern Colorado. :D

  • Kirsten

    Would the difference between ditra and provoflex matter if I were using either material as a backer to raise thinner tiles in a mosaic pattern to be flush with the rest of the floor? Any other options for that purpose? I’m doing this project on the cheap but effective (ie, I will actually attach my Freecycle tile to the floor, unlike my landlord who appears to have cut the previous linoleum and laid it down without any glue at all)

    Awesome site, btw. You’ve really built it out since the Customer Love days. :-)

    • Roger

      Hi Kirsten,

      Makes absolutely no difference at all. You can use either of those membranes, 1/4″ backerboard, any other tile substrate will work as well. You can even use pieces of vct (it’s that shiny tile you see in grocery stores). All of it works as long as water doesn’t affect the size of it. i.e. it doesn’t swell when it gets wet like wood does.

      Nice to seeya! :D

  • Sue

    Thanks for the wonderful resource your comments provide.
    Our screened back porch has a porcelain tile floor that’s dry for several months a year. During Florida’s heavy daily rain season the ground sometimes gets saturated moisture sometimes seeps up from the concrete slab into grout – not puddles – just damp grout between some of the porcelain tiles mostly in the middle of the floor. About 3/4 of the tiles sound hollow underneath when tapped with metal tool! We’re considering having the tile removed and replaced but don’t want to spend all that money to have the problem reoccur. Should Schulter DITRA or a membrane like Durock be applied to the concrete slab to stop seepage from below impacting new tile? Is there a particular adhesive suitable for our situation. Thanks for your attention to my question.

    • Roger

      Hi Sue,

      A membrane which can deal with vapor dissipation would be the proper product in your situation. It won’t stop the moisture from migrating from the slab, but when it does the channels in the ditra allow it to dissipate without affecting your installation in any manner. I would use ditra there.

  • JR

    I have a question regarding schluter products. We are trying to install a standing shower in our bathroom and there are many different types of products out there. We don’t want to do a mortar bed and would prefer a bed such as the schluter shower kit system however I am a bit concerned regarding about two things: 1) their shower trays are not the size I need (I need a 32×48 approximately) and we would have to cut it, which I heard is not highly recommended and 2) after reading this post, I would be concerned about the movement underneath the tiles as you have mentioned which can cause the mortar to crack and tiles to fall off. The Kerdi shower systems does not seem to offer the ability for tiles to move for seasonal weather changes in the hosue.

    Anyone have any suggestions to any other system besides the kerdi system with appropriate shower tray sizes for myself? I’ve been looking everywhere. I’ve only come across the Kerdi, Laticrete, RedGard, and now the Provamat product.

    • Roger

      Hi JR,

      You can cut the schluter pans, you just have to cut them evenly. For instance: rather than cutting six inches off of one side you need to cut three off of each side so it remains uniform. It’s not really that hard. It really isn’t recommended due to the possibility of messing it up, but it can be done.

      Movement is a problem in substrates that can not compensate for it. Deck mud used to make shower floors compensate for a lot of movement, the foam pans do as well. Movement is rarely an issue with them.

      I don’t know of any particular brand with your specific sizing. I know you don’t want to do the mortar bed, but it’s really your best option I think.

  • Mark

    I need to (RE-DO) a Charleston porch. Tear out, re-frame (so it slopes and water drains when it rains), then re-floor and waterproof 100% (like there is such a thing as 80% waterproof). :bonk:

    In your opinion Ditra? Yes?

    • Roger

      Ditra if it’s not a freeze-thaw environment, Laticrete hydroban if it is.

      • Mark

        It is in Charlotte, North Carolina with moderate temperatures. I’m thinking new 3/4″ T&G decking at 1/4 inch slope with Ditra.

        • Roger

          If you have a good joist structure that will work provided you have 1/2″ ply over the T & G. You need a 1 1/4″ minimum substrate, especially for an exterior deck or porch.

          • Mark

            Flooring is 2 x 10’s @16 inch OC . I will frame at 2% slope. Decking will be 3/4 inch T&G with 1/2 inch Durock on top. Ditra on top of Durock with Kirda at all wall edges and corners and at exterior over drip edge under tile.

            • Roger

              Then substitute the durock with 1/2″ ply. The durock adds nothing structurally to deflection, the plywood will allow you to meet deflection standards with the 1 1/4″ minimum height. You can do it with the durock, but since you’re using ditra the 1/2″ ply would be significantly better.

              • Mark

                Then for beefing up for deflection we will have 2 x 10’s @ 16″ OC with 3/4″ T&G decking, with 1/2″ Plywood. From reading it looks like I can also use 1/2″ OSB. Is that your understanding? Also what do “YOU” use to bond the Ditra to the 1/2″ wood decking ? This will all be at 2 degree fall so wind driven rain will roll off.

                • Roger

                  The problem with osb is there are very few thinsets that guarantee a good bond. If you use a good thinset – laticrete 255, mapei ultraflex 3, etc., then osb should be fine provided you install the uncoated or unwaxed side up. I normally use laticrete 253 for my ditra, on exterior decks I would bump it up the the aforementioned 255.

                  • Mark

                    Thanks Roger,

                    Due to bonding, that is why I was using 1/2 ” Durock. But needing strength for deflection requires plywood. Thanks again for your insight and help.
                    :wink:

  • Edward

    We had a guy do some bathroom floor and wall tile. He didn’t seem to use spacers much. Also the grout is 1/8 and in places the tile is halfway into this grout line at the joints. Is that a legitimate beef. Are spacers standard ? Is it a shortcut not to use?

    • Roger

      Hi Edward,

      There are many, many ways to set tile. Spacers are only one method. They are not required and I know a LOT of guys who don’t use them. It’s not necessarily the method used, but the end result that matters.

      Your statement is confusing in that when you say the tile is halfway into the grout line it could mean:

      A: your grout lines are not straight or uniform. Or
      B: your tile is not rectified, uniform or is bowed.

      Is it your tile or the grout lines which are not uniform? If it’s your grout lines then yes, it’s legitimate, it’s simply shoddy work. If it’s the tile then it is likely legitimate, but that can be overcome if the installer knows how to compensate for it.

      If the grout lines are not uniform then it’s simply shitty work. There is absolutely no excuse for that at all.

  • Edward

    We have grout cracking. When I cut around a tile that is over ditra and I pull it up should it come up free of the thinset or should the thinset come up with it for the most part?

    • Roger

      Hi Edward,

      It should come up with the thinset fully bonded to the tile and you should have to rip it out of the dovetails in the ditra. And I do mean rip.

  • James

    I have a project I am contemplating involving the removal of some 3/4″ hardwood flooring in my foyer and replacing it with Travertine tile (3/8″ to 1/2″ thick depending on size I choose). The subfloor is 3/4″ T&G Plywood with standard floor joist spacing (home built in 2006). Can I safely use DitraXL without a second layer of plywood/luan to keep the final tile height flush with the adjoining hardwood floring. Their website indicates while their tests indicate this would work, they cannot recommend mor warranty this type of install due to variations in travertine porosity. Or, do I need to give up that idea and use a standard porcelain tile for this type of application since it is thinner and can do build-up and keep a flush transition?

    • Roger

      Hi James,

      Schluter says you can. Then they say they won’t warranty it.

      Yes, you can, but schluter won’t warranty it. :D

      If you want a flush transition you may be better off going with 1/4″ backer with thinset beneath it, then your stone. With either you still aren’t meeting the technical requirements of 1 1/8″ double layer plywood over your joists, so one is as good as the other. With backer at least you’ll have the advantage of modified thinset.

      I’m a lot of help, huh? :D

      • James

        Roger,

        Thanks for the advice, might give it a try the 1/4″ backer board. The flooring system has 14″ engineered joists put on a 20″ center, so hopefully not a lot of flex.

        James

  • Sandra

    Hi, Roger,

    We are going to use Kerdi in our small shower. How does that hold up? Any recommendations on how to lay it and what kind of adhesives to use? We are probably going to use a pebble stone floor (flat on top). Appreciate any ideas!

    Sandra

    • Roger

      Hi Sandra,

      It holds up so well that I use it in 90% of my installations and give a lifetime warranty. I prefer Laticrete 317 over kerdi for unmodified, 254 or 4-xlt for modified. Use a v-notch trowel for the pebbles, you’ll get less squeeze-through.

  • Mario

    Hi Roger,

    I’m in the process of building an addition/patio/deck on the back of my house. We built cinder block walls all the way down to the existing footing of the house in order to have a storage room under the deck. The deck is 30’x14′. We’re sill sealing between the block and double sill 2×6 PT. 2×10 joists, 12″ on center with a double joist every other for added strength. 3/4 tongue and groove ply as a “sub-floor”.

    We’ve been looking at the Ditra as our method of waterproofing before laying down some exterior grade tile. We’ve yet to pick out the tile, but are leaning toward a non skid porcelain.

    In your experience with Ditra, would you consider it to be suitable for exterior use in an application as described? We live in NJ…. btw… so it will get snow and freezing temps. We plan on putting a roof over the whole deck within a year or 2, so that will eventually keep some of the weather off of it, but there will be at least 1 NJ winter that it will need to survive.

    Thanks!
    Mario

    • Roger

      Hey Mario,

      I prefer Noble’s deck system to Schluters. Although schluter does have theirs installed around their factory in freeze/thaw temps, I just don’t like the idea of having those cavities under tile. Any moisture that gets in there may freeze, thus expand, which is never good under tile. Noble’s system utilizes a flat membrane similar to kerdi rather than ditra.

      That said, if you are going to eventually cover it I don’t see any problem at all with using ditra, it will last at least a few years before that scenario would become problematic (if it ever would).

      • Marioq

        Thank you for your response. Noble deck is significantly more expensive, which would put us over budget. How do you feel about using Kerdi rather the Ditra?

        Thanks.

        Mario

        • Roger

          Provided you have the appropriate slope and substrate it would work just fine.

          • Mario

            1/4″ of slope per linear foot. What would you suggest as a substrate?

            • Roger

              Deck mud ideally, durock is fairly standard (with thinset between it and the ply).

  • Greg

    Have you ever heard of someone filling in the ditra waffles letting the thinset dry and then installing the tiles? If this has been done do you think the thinsets will adhere to each other?

    Thanks Greg

    • Roger

      Hi Greg,

      I do it all the time. Thinset bonds to thinset just fine. It’s fairly common practice with a lot of professionals. It allows both a full cure in the waffles as well as letting you walk over already installed ditra without destroying it as you’re working on other parts of the project.

  • Joe

    Roger,
    Great article. A fair comparison from someone with real world experience.

    So am I correct in assuming if you were laying a porcelain tile you would still use modified thinset and lose the “warranty” of the ditra (which we all know exercising that warranty can be like finding a unicorn)?

    Thanks!
    Joe

    • Roger

      Hey Joe,

      Yes, normally I would use modified.

      You’re correct about the ‘warranty’. :D

      • Edward

        I read above in the comparison that you said use unmodified thinset between the ditra and the tile and just now I see you say that you would use modified even if it meant the warranty would be voided. Could you shed some light on this. I have cracked/failing grout in many places especially in traffic areas and it started within 6 months. The porcelain tiles were 1 foot by 2 foot. They sat a week before grouting. Thanks!

        • Roger

          Hey Edward,

          What is under the ditra? Most cracking grout is due to movement in the subfloor or improper bond of the tile to the substrate. I use modified with porcelain and most dense natural stones. I use unmodified for ceramics, travertine and some marble.

  • Anne Morgan

    Please help!!! I want to install Prostone (Brick paver) in my den. I want to use radiaent heat. My contractor and the ProStone people can’t tell me how to install. I have put 3/4 inch plywood down. Now what goes next? I am so confused!!! Thank You!!!

    • Roger

      Hi Anne,

      I don’t know what prostone is. You’ve typed brick paver, if it is indeed a clay or ceramic product you simply put down the heating element then the tile. If you are using backerboard, put it down first, heat, then tile. If you’re using a membrane like kerdi put down the heat, them membrane, then tile.

  • Chris Brown

    I’m new to tiling, but an engineer by trade so I look at things from an engineering perspective. I have a garage with plenty of cracks in the concrete and want to tile over it. So I’m researching underlayments. I believe the fabric mesh is fixed on the bottom of both because it helps provide the strength along with modified thinset to adhere the plastic to the thinset/floor (in my case concrete). This should be the strongest bond possible fixing the plastic to the floor.

    The layer of fabric is just like a composite where you have a filler (thinset) and a fiber reinforcement kinda like fiberglass. The thinset is absorbed well enough into the fabric to hold very well.

    The trick to this all working is to have two separate strong pieces allowed to move independently of each other. Essentially crushing and stressing the plastic to absorb movement. The plastic is what crushes and moves under stress of two hard non-moving plates (tile and floor).

    To work correctly the top layer (tile) should not be chemically bonded to the Ditra. Hence you talk about the mechanical connection of the dovetails. Sure the dovetail prevents the top layer from popping out of the plastic but when is there a force pulling the tile up? I don’t think the dovetail is really needed but it is a nice design feature. Ditra doesn’t want you to use modified thinset because it will stick to the plastic and not allow as much movement. Hence no warranty for modified thinset. Of course then you run the risk of breaking the bond between thinset and the tile especially with certain tiles. The wish is for the ditra to move enough that there aren’t enough forces to break the thinset to tile bond. If you use modified thinset it will bond too well to the ditra and then there won’t be enough movement.

    The Prova-flex has a fabric layer on top that is meant to add strength to the thinset under the tiles and above the plastic. You would want this top layer to come off the plastic easily in order to have the two sides move independently of each other. You don’t want it to be fixed hard like the bottom. It’s also a weaker fabric than the bottom, but is likely required because there are no dovetails. The dovetails are probably patented and this is a product designed to do the same thing at ditra. It allows the use of modified thinset perhaps because there are no dovetails and they could use the strength, or maybe the design of the plastic is different enough it allows for movement even if the top sticks to the plastic.

    I’m not entire sure on all of this, but a real comparison would be to put both to a real test and see how the substrate can move thermally and deal with cracks… then see which one breaks the tile on top!

    • Chris Brown

      I think the Ditra does have a design flaw in that it’s directional for movement, whereas the Prova will be more equal in diagonal movements. So advantage Prova. I bet that both are equally horrible for any vertical movement and a better product has yet to be designed…. Ditra just captured the market first.

      • Roger

        Hi Chris,

        I appreciate your opinion about the statement ‘advantage Prova’, I simply don’t agree with it. In your comment you’ve made a couple of assumptions that are not accurate, so your determination is at least partly based on an inaccurate baseline.

        First, the mesh is on the bottom of both to provide both bonding to the substrate as well as the flexibility in the separation of the two layers. Comparing it to a fiber reinforcement, in my opinion, assumes that the thinset bonds to the plastic, it does not. Nothing in those layers crushes and moves, each plane in the lamination moves independently of one another and the dovetail cavities keep the top lamination (tile) locked into place while still allowing that movement.

        Your main misconception, however, derives from the assumption that modified thinset will stick to the plastic and not allow any movement. No thinset sticks to either plastic, none. The reason for the unmodified recommendation comes from the need of portland to have water retained into the mix to allow hydration to fully cure the product, that’s why polymers are added to modified thinset. The shape of the dovetails in ditra force water to be retained in the mix as it cures, it is Schluter’s opinion that polymers are not needed in that application.

        I have my own assumptions as well, all of them about prova since I can not get an answer from them to my questions. I assume the mesh layer on top is there to hold, or at least strengthen, the bond or fastening of the thinset to the membrane. Your statement may be more accurate in that respect. I also assume the only reason, the main reason, they allow modified thinset is because Schluter does not. It is not needed, on the other hand modified works fine in ditra, it just takes a bit longer to cure due to the need for water to dissipate once the portland is cured.

        I would love to do that comparison test, however I do not happen to own a Robinson floor tester and the tests that have been run show that they both conform to minimum standards, although ditra came out on top with more cycles before failure. To that end – advantage ditra. :D

        They both work, however.

  • Prentice

    New construction, 2x 10 I joists with 3/4 inch plywood.
    Would like to put down slate 12 x 24 tile. Can I put down ditra xl and then the stone, or do I need an additional 1/2 inch plywood down, and the regular ditra?
    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hey Prentice,

      According to Schluter, either one. In my real world experience I would do the 1/2″ with regular ditra. TCA standards require a double-layer of ply, especially for stone. Although schluter says you can go over a single layer with the xl, with stone my opinion differs.

      • Prentice

        Thanks – do I ply the rest of floor as well so that transition between the 2 (tile and wood flooring) is the same height? Or is there another option?

        • Roger

          I don’t know what you mean by ‘the rest of the floor’? If you don’t yet have your wood flooring in then yes, underlay it as well. If you already do then you’ll need a transition between the tile and wood to compensate for the different heights.

          • Prentice

            OK – will underlay the entire floor
            Is Ditra better then backerboard for this project.

            • Roger

              Yes.

              • Prentice

                3/4 inch ply is nailed and caulked to joist, do I need to screw it down before 2nd layer of plywood – for 2nd layer ext grade fir OK, not tongue and grove

                • Roger

                  You don’t need to, but it’s always a better idea. BC exterior grade or better, doesn’t need to be tongue and groove.

                  • Prentice

                    Finished the floors turned out great, Thanks!
                    on to the gas fireplace. Specs allow me to put rock over metal flange – 3″ on the side, 9 ” on top – it’s says 300F adhesive – is thinset over lath OK?

                    • Roger

                      As long as the lath is attached well. How are you going to do that? You can also use high temperature epoxy.

  • robert

    You seem to know stuff so I thought I would ask advice-
    I have a 1200 sqft room which is part plywood and part concrete slab and I would like to cover it with stone tile. Some sections I would also like to add nuheat electric radiant heat as a tile warmer (not room heater). I do not want to do this over entire floor just some of plywood and some of cement areas.
    So what do I do?
    I see you like Ditra- can this be thinset right onto plywood? Do I need to use Ditra on the cement slab floor areas?
    Can nuheat be used with ditra? over or under?
    Thanks,

    • Roger

      Hey Robert,

      Yes, Ditra can be thinsetted directly to plywood and concrete. Any heating elements, Nuheat included, are installed beneath ditra. If you are only installing it in certain portions of the room you NEED to have soft joints around the perimeter of each area to separate the areas with heat and the areas without. You also need a soft joint over the transition between the plywood and concrete substrates.

  • Brewer

    Elf… thanks for bestowing all your tile knowledge. VERY HELPFUL. Figured I might help you. “That shape”… as you call it is referred to very rarely in literature as I couldn’t find it on the internet at all and I know the name. It is called a ‘hagion’. The word is only defined in its religious terms online that I could find but the shape is the Greek ceremonial path around a temple from corner to corner while being drawn to the center so to speak. You will see the shape on contemporary ceremonial garb (masons, frats, etc..) and Greek molding etc.. Cheers ;)

    • Roger

      Thank you very much Brewer!

  • Craig

    My biggest problem with ditra is that using modified thinset voids their warranty. What is the sense of paying the extra price of an underlayment if there is no warranty for it’s use. All porcelain tile should be installed with modified thinset (ceramic tile is almost extinct) There are several other underlayments with warranties that cover modified thinsets.

    • Roger

      I agree Craig. However, I don’t use ditra because there’s a warranty, I use it for the benefits it offers as a tile underlayment. There are several other underlayments available which can be used with modified thinset, and there are some very good ones. That’s part of the reason I did this post. The ditra, however, is tested and backed by a company with decades of research and experience (warranty or not, that’s still the case), Loxscreen, the manufacturer of prova, is not. This is why I will continue to use kerdi over prova-flex, and forego the warranty.

      It seems you are a professional installer, you should know as well as I that when it comes to warranty issues what the first term uttered from the company’s rep is going to be. I don’t rely on any manufacturer’s warranty, it’s not worth the headaches for me. If you prefer to have the warranty then a different underlayment needs to be utilized since the TCA standards do dictate that porcelain be set with modified thinset.

      • Roger

        Very nice work on your site, by the way!

  • Betty

    Can I use ditra under a pebble tile application on a uneven cement floor ?

    • Roger

      Hi Betty,

      No, you can’t. The minimum tile size for ditra is 2″ square, anything smaller than that and you won’t have full support beneath each individual one. The pebbles, for instance, will have all sorts of unsupported areas beneath them due to the waffle-like surface of the ditra. Your best option with an uneven cement floor is to either mud it (a HELL of a lot of work) or use self-leveling cement (a bit spendy). You can also simply follow the surface of the floor, it may not be completely flat, but depending on how out of flat it is it may not ever be noticed nor affect anything.

  • phil

    Hi. Doing a mud room entry,front door entrance,2 connecting hallways to a 19 X 16 kitchen. Using 3/8 thick,12X12 GLASS!!!tiles. Substrate is 5/8 T&G on 2X12 on 16 inch centers. Don’t want to build the sub up any more so I’m thinking I would like to use a high quality mortar with membrane. How’s my thinking and how should I proceed.

  • Megan

    Any way it would work on a wall? I have 1/2 inch thick solid plywood paneling in my shower and only 2/2 studs in the wall so not sure if cutting it out to install sheet rock would be good…kinda thought since it was 1/2 inch plywood instead of drywall it would work if taped right…any ideas. Disclaimer…any problems caused by what I eventually choose to do are my fault alone ;) Just wanted to see if you had any advice…
    Thank you! ;)

    • Roger

      Any way what would work on a wall Megan? I’m not too sure what you’re talking about. If provaflex or ditra, no, not as a full substrate.

  • Paul

    Roger,
    Do you recommend using keralastic by mapie as an additive to install detra on a exterior cement pad. I am concerned with freeze thaw here in Pennsylvania. I realize that is the use for detra in the first place but i’m concerned with bond strengh. Thanks

    • Roger

      Hey Paul,

      If you add keralastic it becomes a modified thinset. At that point I would just use ultraflex 2 instead, you’ll lose your warranty either way. If it were mine I would use modified, but unmodified actually cures stronger than modified. The end product is more stable.

  • Kat

    Have you tried using protegga? Just wondering is it would also be the same, better, or worse product. What are the price points for Ditra and the Provaflex per sqft?

    • Roger

      Hey Kat,

      Nope, not on the prova or loxscreen bandwagon. They all work essentially the same, though, provided the cavities are dovetailed. Price points vary a LOT depending on location. The price difference for me here is about 33% higher for the ditra over provaflex. And I pay it with a smile on my face. :D