Well now we’re ready to waterproof your curb. If you have reached this post before reading the previous two, start with How to build a shower floor from the beginning. Now that you’re ready to get the curb cut and waterproofed lets get it done.
And yes, I know my pictures suck – I’m a tile guy for cryin’ out loud, not a professional photographer. Until you try to balance a liner, a razor knife, a margin trowel, and a camera while trying to take a photo don’t give me any crap about it. Oh, and you can click on any of the images for a full-size version – partake in the full glory of how much my photography sucks.
We need to start by finding the inside lower corner of your shower pan and making certain that the liner is pressed firmly against it. Then follow it up the corner of the curb and wall to the top inside corner of your curb. This is the spot at which you will start the cut in your liner.
Cutting a liner for a curb when shower walls will be backerboard Click to Enlarge
Deciding in which direction to make your cut depends upon how you plan to waterproof the walls. If you are simply using a cementious backerboard on your walls with a moisture barrier behind it you want to cut from that point straight up. Or, more precisely, cut your liner so that when it is placed flat against the studs the cut will go straight up from that point.
If, however, you are using a topical waterproofing membrane (that’s just fancy-ass, pinkie in the air talk for waterproofing that goes right behind the tile) I cut it a bit differently. Start from the inside top corner of the curb and cut straight out to the outside corner of the curb.
Cutting a liner for curb when using a topical membrane
The reason for this is simple – to me anyway – if you are using a cement backerboard or any type of substrate where moisture will get behind your wall, you want to have as much of a liner at the ends of the curbs as possible to run up the wall. With a topical membrane such as Schluter Kerdi or a liquid such as Redgard you don’t have to worry about that. By the time any water behind the tile gets to the bottom of your waterproofing it should be well below your curb – provided you’ve installed it correctly.
On the inside corner of the curb you should install a ‘dam corner’. These are pre-formed outside corners which are glued to the liner to cover the spot where you’ve made the cut. I do not have a picture of these because I don’t use them, I’m a hypocritical bastard like that. But you should. (Use the dam corners, not be a hypocritical bastard.)
When you do glue your dam corners in you need to make sure you use the correct type of glue. Just like drain pipes – pvc glue for pvc liners and cpe glue for cpe liners. The glue WILL NOT work the other way around. Really, don’t try it, it’s an expensive lesson. Take my word for it.
The liner gets wrapped over the top of the curb
Now that you have the ends of the curb cut we need to move on to preparing the curb for tile. Take your 2 x 4 that you used to level your pre-slope perimeter (you did that, right?) and place it in the inside corner of your liner against the curb and the floor. This ensures that the liner lies completely against the floor and the curb without air pockets or empty space beneath it. Then nail the OUTSIDE of your liner to the curb – only the outside, never the inside.
Please note: these photos were taken after my final mud bed was in place. I installed the curb last on this particular project. You can do it before or after your final mud bed is fabricated. Dealer’s choice.
Nailed only on the outside of the curb
To hold the liner in place over the top of the curb you need some metal lathe. Provided your curb consists of three 2 x 4’s your lathe needs to be cut into strips sized to fit over your curb from the floor on the outside to the inside bottom corner of your shower. Bend the lathe into a ‘U’ shape (length-wise) and place it over the top of your liner over your curb. Something else I do not have a photo of. Just because I’ve never taken one, not because I do it differently.
You only need to nail the liner on the outside if you have a wooden curb. If your shower is on a concrete subfloor you used bricks for your curb – right? Pay attention, if you fail the quiz later you owe me a beer Pepsi.
I have one more photo for this post and this is it. Isn’t that spectacular? It’s just to show you how I do the ends of the curb when using Kerdi on the walls. “But why don’t you use Kerdi on the floor too?” Glad you asked. It’s a very technical answer and requires you pay attention to every part of it or you may get lost in all the details. Ready? Because some people don’t wanna pay over 100 dollars for a shower drain. Whaddya gonna do?
Shower pan liner on the end of the curb.
Couple of things I’d like to point out about that last photo before you go bustin’ my chops too hard. First, the excess liner is not yet cut out. I cut it straight down the edge of the drywall there and everything gets tucked straight back into the wall. Secondly, yes, I put a nail through the liner. A foot above the curb. You can light it on fire that high if you choose to do so. (I wouldn’t recommend that, though. And no, I don’t want to talk type about it.)
Now we have to water test your pan to make sure it does not leak. Note: most cities and counties REQUIRE this to be done – don’t skip it. The test simply ensures that all your hard work is indeed correct and your pan does not leak. That’s it.
You need to plug the drain (or you’ll be there all night trying to get enough water into it) which you can do with either a $75 specialty plug, or a water balloon. You pick. You need to make absolutely sure that (and I’m assuming you chose the balloon option) the balloon is pushed far enough down into the drain to block the weep holes as well. If they are not it will let you know that your weep holes work correctly. Unfortunately it does nothing to reassure you about the liner. If you look carefully into the drain you should be able to see the holes for the weep holes, get below them with your plug.
Then just fill ‘er up. All the way up to just a hair below the top of the curb. (take the 2 x 4 out of it first if it’s still in there) and leave it set for 24 hours. After the 24 hours have elapsed and you are reasonably recovered from your recently induced hangover, check to make sure the level of the water has not gone down. If it hasn’t you are ready to go.
Now if we could just get that elf guy off his ass to write the next post you will learn how to fabricate your final mud bed and tile that sucker. Hang tight, we’ll go get him. Check back real soon, y’all. And as always, if you have any questions at all please feel free to use the comment section below.
Hi Roger. I’m back again!
I was writing in under the “deck mud” article, but ran out of room! Now I have a question about hardibacker and the liner.
I have metal studs, so I shimmed with strips from old plastic vertical blinds (since I couldn’t find suitable cardboard that day). I screwed the hardibacker on. The lowest screws are 11 inches from the bottom, since my liner goes up a foot on each side. There’s still a bit of give when I push on the bottom of the backerboard, however. The backerboard is suspended about 1/2 inch from the preslope. When I add the final slope, about 1/2 an inch of mud will be available to press the backerboard tighter to the studs & liner. Will the mud be able to hold it that tight? Or should I add screws lower down, so long as they are 3 inches above the curb. (By the way, is 3 inches measured from the top of the liner, or the top of the curb after the lath-and-cement?)
On when I put mason-mix on the lath, I was planning it to match the thickness of the backer board on the sides. If it should be thicker on top, how thick?
Hey Kenneth,
The 1/2″ of mud will hold it just fine. You can install more screws if you want. They need to be three inches above the top of what will be the finished height of the curb.
1/2″ of mason mix is fine.
After putting down my pvc liner and gluing the damn corners with Oatley X-15 pvc glue, I noticed that the glue sort of changed the texture of the liner. It made it kinda mushy where I had glued it … assuming this is due to the chemical reaction that takes place during the bonding. just wanted to check that this is normal and the integrety of the liner hasn’t been compromised. thanks
Hey Nick,
It is normal and the liner is fine. It will solidify over time.
Thank you for allowing me to sleep tonight
I was worried that I overkilled it with the glue. Folding that liner in the corners and over the curb was a PITA (pain in the …). Your site was a big help once agian.
For my curb, can I just put backer board over the liner? Then, the pink waterproofer, along with the white material stuff for the seams, then tile it??
basically my question, is do I have to have the mesh on it? or just form the backerboard over the 2 x 4 ‘s and prepare it as the shower walls?
Sorry Toni, I get and answer questions in the order they were asked (chronilogically). If you have a waterproof liner over your curb, as described above, then you use wire lath folded in a ‘U’ shape over it to hold it down. You then form your curb with wet mud (deck mud with lime in it) and your tile is installed directly to it once it’s cured.
ok, dumb question………..so since I already put backer board on it, can I put the mesh on it and carry on………or shall I take it off, and then put mesh on it and carry on?
Hi Toni,
No. There is no way to attach the backerboard which will not puncture your waterproof liner. And if you have a liner already in there you should not use redgard (the pink waterproofer). I don’t know what white material stuff you may be referencing. There are proper ways to create and waterproof a shower curb (the single most vulnerable spot in your shower and the first to fail) and what you are trying to do is not it. You need to do it properly or plan on repairing and replacing your installation early and often.
sounds like I need to take it off, put more plastic on, and then the wire mesh, got it, I do read your stuff, just not soon enough for this project
Does it matter if you tile the shower floor before or after the wall? If so what is the reasoning behind this? Thanks
Hey Eric,
Nope, makes no difference at all. I normally do the floor first just because I think it looks better.
Good Morning Roger,
I seriously live in an underground house. My husband bought it as a ‘sweet bachelor pad’ after college. Eight years later I’m trying to ‘spruce’ things up a bit to make it feel more, you know above ground.
The single tile shower drain bugs me most right now. It has a completely uneven slope and there’s a 3/4in. drop from the tile to the drain right where I stand for my shower. Is there a way to fix this? Maybe self leveling concrete as I’m wanting to cover the un-cleanable grout? Possibly missing the cover plate? I really hope you can get me started in what to investigate.
My husband and I are not that handy. He watches the babies while I go and tear things up. Luckily my dad straightens things out for me most of the time. But he is stumped on the shower.
So I would truly appreciate any insight you could offer me and my awesome dad so we can remedy this crazy house one step at a time.
Thank you so much,
Aszra
Hi Aszra,
Why did you marry a morlock?
Get some drain extender kits. Each one raised is 1/4″. You can find them here: Drain extender kit
oh forgot to mention, I live in Missouri, and tomorrow the actual temp will be 106! I got plenty of beverages to keep me going!..if you want I will post pics of house and shower…not sure how to do that yet..I am a virgin! BE NICE
Hey Chris,
I would love pics. You can go here and upload photos directly to the site. Please include your name with any photos so they don’t end up in the ‘who the hell does this belong to’ file. Yes, I actually have one of those back there. It’s full.
damn! Your photos are dark! I have been following your advice and have preslope down!..some minor issues..I used the goof proof plastic sticks…so far so good..I had to add some thinset to 2 areas next to sticks that were not solid…so far the preslope is solid….had a few diet mt dews…aka beers..and walked on it..holding up well!
I am looking forward to putting liner in when I wake up! this whole dam corner thing is getting to me..got eh oatey dam corners..gonna follow your advise as you are the MAN :
Hi Roger,
Your website and answered questions have been substantially more helpful than the local Home Depot Dufus. They are appreciated!
I am planning to tile a shower in my basement with one wall of the shower being against the concrete foundation wall. I hope to tile directly onto the foundation wall, but my liner wraps up onto that wall a good 4 inches at the bottom; can I just thinset and lay tile right over the liner? If not, do I have any other options besides covering that entire wall with hardiebacker?
Thanks!
Hey Jeremy,
Nope, that’s about your only option at this point. If you want to use a topical membrane for the entire shower you can do it that way, otherwise you’ll need to attach a frame and backer to that wall.
how do you waterproof a shower insert. im taking about a homemade one that is made in backerboard and possibly that shower liner plastic. of course it has many seams.
i guess the same glue, pvc/cbe. but how to tile on top of that plastic.
also how thin can you make that top cement layer of the floor. sitting on plastic seems like gravity is its only friend.
how thin can that deck mud go prior to flaking off.
Hi Mike,
You cannot tile on top of that plastic (acrylic). It won’t last. The thermal expansion properties of the acrylic and any bonding material / tile you place on it are too disimilar – it will break the bond between the two as it expands and contracts. Your best bet is to simply tile to the backerboard, although I’m likely misunderstanding what you have going on there. The acrylic is waterproof, you don’t need to waterproof it.
Deck mud minimal thickness is 3/4″, although you can go down to about 1/2″ if needed. It won’t flake off if it is not being used as the wear-layer. In other words, as long as something (tile) is installed over it there will be no direct abrasion on the deck mud – it won’t flake.
Can i use pvc glue for the dam corners or do i haveto use oatly X 15 (its what oatly recomends)?
Hey Aaron,
While the pvc glue will work just fine (provided it is a pvc membrane
) it is always best to use a product which the manufacturer specifically recommends. I have used both and they both work fine.
Thanks
I have some pvc glue so I will just use that. I just finished my pre-slope and much thanks to your write up all went well. I am no tiler but as a taper/painter I see people doing that improper all the time, so when I do something I dont do all the time I do my research. Its all about the details, and paying attention to them!
Hi Roger,
What do you know about the Schluter Shower Systems available at Home Depot? They seem like a good option for a DIY project. Any experience with these?
Hi Dan,
I don’t know what particular products they have in those kits. You have a link? They just started doing this, so I’m not sure what you’re looking at there.
Roger,
Here’s the link to their website: http://www.schluter.com
In particular, I’m interested in your opinion on the shower tray, curb, and bench.
I’m well aware of all the schluter products, I use them literally every day.
You mentioned a ‘kit’ which implies that there is a certain combination of products sold in one unit. I was inquiring as to which specific products are in it.
The trays and curbs work as intended so long as you are careful about kneeling on them as you are working over them. They will dent fairly easily until they are covered with tile. I don’t use them because I rarely do showers that are standard sizes. The curbs in particular are prone to dents from knees – just take care when working over them.
Schluter does not, that I am aware, make a bench. I’ve never seen one. Kerdi is a great product and my preferred method of building a shower. 90% of my showers are built with kerdi.
Roger,
UG!!! I have read and looked at your pics referrring to the cutting of the curg liner and i just can’t picture it at all. I have also read the comments. Can you illuminate any further?
I don’t know how else I can describe it with words. Hold on a bit and I’ll see if I can find a youtube video of someone doing it correctly. I’ll let you know here whether or not I find something. I’m. Not. Hopeful.
But I’ll try.
Try this one: installing composeal shower pan. It’s a pretty good general instructional. It does not show cutting around the curb specifically buy if you pause it at 3:09 you can see how it was cut right down the stud of the opening and folded over the curb – then the dam corner is installed over it.
This one has some good views of it as well. The end of the video also shows the dam corners. Chloraloy corners
And lastly, you can see Michael actually cut the liner for the curb here. Shower pan liner installation.
Hey Roger,
So you’ve mentioned before that you really need to use deck mud to create the pre-slope. In fact, I read you’re earlier reply to Mike back in November that the folks at the store suggesting that he create the pre-slope out of thinset are idiots. I’ve tried to research it more on your site, but I can’t seem to figure out why you would say that. I understand the process, but I guess my question, is Why can’t you do it? I know you said it’s not intended to be a substrate, but why not? It can cure without air right? Meaning I can waterproof right over it and keep moving with my project, otherwise I have to wait for the deck mud to cure for a day before waterproofing it right? Seems like thinset would be faster. Let me know if I’m being a jackass, but I just wanna know why, and if it requires a physics lesson, I’m ok with that!
Thanks!
Hey David,
Because deck mud will crack. It is not manufactured to withstand that thick of a layer without relief points. The deck mud, on the other hand, is essentially several million independent particles which can move separately without affecting the floor as a whole.
Your substrate WILL expand and contract – when that happens movement will occur in your shower deck. The deck mud compensates for this by subtly shifting individual particles of sand ever-so-slightly to relieve the pressure. Thinset (mortar) does this by cracking. It will crack at the weakest point – normally the thinnest spot in the layer. This happens to be around the drain where your membrane ties into the only proper water channel out of the shower.
It may lead to problems – it may not. I cannot guarantee failure – I can guarantee methods that will not fail. Deck mud is one of those methods.
Roger,
A while back you gave me some advise regarding my deck mud escapades (note: i didnt say good advise, nor did i say bad advise), which I took. My shower pan has been in a holding pattern since, unfinished for about 6 months, maybe more, I really don’t care to discuss my inability to complete a project in a timely manner…my wife does though.
Nonetheless… I now have 3 months before the alien my wife is growing in her stomach graces us with sleepless nights and stinking diapers. So… the pressure is on for me to complete the shower.
Back so many moths ago, I laid down the pre-slope, noble membrane, and final mud bed. All went fairly well…(ok… i cursed a lot, maybe had a temper tantrum, and made two batches of deck mud in an attempt to get that perfect final flat slope to the drain. i got the cheater sticks that set the final slope, and act as a guide for your screed?)
So now I have a final slope and no mud on my curb yet. (thats whats holding me up) I attempted the metal lath once but could not get the cement to “stay” affixed to the vertical faces of the curb. (too dry or the membrane isn’t flat enough on the 2x4s; you might ask me: is the noble membrane toyt-like-a-tiger over my 2×4 built-up curb? and my answer is: …um …mostly… My hopeful-shower is a neo-angle.. and i did “my best” to get it as tight as possible… there are “bubbles” at the 22.5 angles )
My concerns are in the fact that I did not lay down my curb before my final bed and those “bubbles” at the neo-corners…annoy me.
I am considering getting the “perfect curb” kit, it’s a plastic lattice work that behaves like metal lath but much more rigid. (you may or may not be aware of the product); or the noble extruded poly curb ( easier install and no more mud (but it would be installed in the “right” order. given their instructions the noble curb should be installed before the final mud bed goes down.
Do you care to share any opinions you may have on the lamer-DIY-make-your-stupid-proof-curb kit?
Thoughts, criticisms, quips, jabs, comments, complements?
Hey Max,
The only problem is your mud mix. It isn’t the same as you use on your shower floor. For your curb and any vertical surface you want what is called fat mud. It is simply deck mud – the same stuff in your shower floor, with powdered masonry lime in it. The lime makes the mud sticky – really sticky. The mix is 1 part cement, 4-6 parts sand, 1 part lime. It is mixed wetter than deck mud, more like thinset.
I am familiar with the products you’ve mentioned but the biggest issue with them is they need to be installed before your top mud bed. That means you’ll need to redo that part if you choose to go that route. Both work well, if given the choice I would choose the perfect curb over the noble.
Roger,
Thank you, for your time. I will stop to get the lime this weekend…
Is it your recommendation I chip out my final mud bed completely…and re-do the whole thing.. or could i get a way with chipping out just a few inches from the curb and re-mudding that? will the “seam” created by 2 different batches of deck mud cause cause spontaneous combustion of K9 and farting unicorns?
You should be able to just chip out what you need to get it repaired correctly. The ‘seam’ is called a cold joint – it does not create any problems in a small application such as that. A 40 foot long cold joint in the middle of a floor – not so much.
No bursting k9’s or flatulent mythical creatures…
So… not exactly… [this] weekend… I went to the big box home center colored puke orange and couldn’t exactly find what I thought I was looking for… so I came home and started reading instead of buying the wrong thing. Turns out that place doesn’t have anything specifically labeled “masonry lime” where they keep the cement products. I have a bag of powdered garden lime out in the garage… will that suffice if it’s Type S? Will I have to worry about impurities or stability of the cement after it cures? Alternatively is there a Portland cement mix from a major brand like Quikcrete that will have a 1:1 lime/cement ratio that I could use? Apparently all my savings in doing it myself are causing my CPA wife a bit of issues in the mental health department…no sense of adventure… flaming dogs and out gassing unicorns aren’t her bag I guess.
Hey Max,
As long as it’s type S or SA powdered lime it will work just fine. You can also use the 1:1 ratio and add four parts sand to it. Either one will work fine.
Thanks for a very informative site. You’ve got the right balance of pictures and narrative to actually clarify things – your niche installation with kerdi is particularly good.
I’m waiting for your next post on the shower floor installation, but in the meantime I have a question about curbs. If you are using kerdi for your floor pan can you run kerdi from the pan up over your curb (2x4s clad in cement backer board) and adhere your tile to that? There would be no nail or screw penetrations in your liner on the curb. The liner would be thinset to the backer board. I know kerdi sells preformed curbs, but kerdi competitors sell preformed niches, and you seem to know how to make your own.
Hey Josh,
Yup, I do them that way all the time. Quick and easy.
Hi, I have a question about using the rubber liner. After I have run the liner six inches up the wall and tacked it down, is it ok to nail the backer board down over it and through the liner? I also would like your opinion on the kerdi for the walls and floors it looks like it might be easier for a first timer like me. Thanks for your help.
Scott.
Hey Scott,
No! You do not want to place any fasteners lower than three inches above the top of the curb. That will puncture the liner and may cause leaks.
Any chance I can get some additional guidance for the cuts of the PVC liner near the curb?
I had everything in place and completely botched the install at this point so any help would be greatly appreciated. I just can’t wrap my mind around where I need to cut in order for:
A. The liner to keep the same line across the studs
B. The liner to folder properly over the curb without bunching up.
Thanks in advance!
Just treat the curb like an entire wall goes all the way up then you’ll cut straight down to the inside corner of the curb so the liner simply lies right over the top of it. The line is cur straight along the ends of the curb from the inside top corner to the outside top corner. Beyond that you can cut it any way you want once you’re outside the curb.
Roger,
I appreciate you taking the time to answer my question and I have successfully installed my shower liner thanks in large part to your website!
Thank you!
I can’t find the exact mortar for the curb and laying of the bricks for the shower bench at Lowes. Supposedly there is one that is premade(has the correct ratio of lime, cement and sand) and one just adds water. I want that one so there is no fussing about how much of what to how much of some other thing so less chance of someone messing up. From my understanding it is called Quikrete Mason mix. I could only find the package which says Mortar Mix(doesn’t say on the package what it is made of) and then the Pro Blended Mason Mix type S(pricey). Which one is the correct package? The guys at Lowes said I could use the Mortar Mix for the curb and the bench, but not sure they knew what they were talking about. Never knew that simple “cement” could be sooooooooooooooo complicated. Isn’t there anything in this darn shower that isn’t.
Thanks,
Ceci
Ohhhhhhhh Roger, just skip over that last question about Quikrete. I called Qukrete’s tech support. Silly me, should have thought of that before bothering the FloorElf once again. This tech support stuff is a very good way to double check things. Anyway, in case anyone has the same question. One supposedly should use the Quikrete Blended Mason Mix. The Lowes’ package just says “Profinish”, but not any different than the one which is sold at Home Depot which doesn’t say “Profinish” according to the tech support guy. Darn, was hoping could use the less pricey one since finally looked at the stats and one has to have quite a few bags to lay those bricks. I have about 70 bricks and then the curb. Now have bags and bags of the wrong Quikrete and some of the correct Quikrete. Heavy little bags. Returning those isn’t going to be a pleasant experience. Yes, thats life.
Ceci
OK, Roger, maybe don’t forget about my question. I just went to Quikrete’s site and clicked onto the data sheet for the Mortar Mix and it says one can lay bricks with it so which one is the correct one to use for the bench and the curb so that one doesn’t have to add anything, but water to it? Maybe tech support wasn’t so good after-all.
Thanks,
Ceci
Any one of them that will adhere the bricks together will work. I use wet mud, made from scratch, for my curbs so I’m not familiar with all the different types. Cement and cement mixes are very complex things – follow the company’s advice for their products. They want them to last so it’s unlikely you’ll get bad advice from them.
Thanks for the information concerning how to create a cement base.
So I now have my cement base created. I have read I should tile my wall prior to the floor so plan to do so. I am now trying to calculate where to start my second row of tiles so I can further calculate where my first niche will be located. My flooring is 2×2 in. tiles 1/2 inch thick on a 12×12 in. mesh backing. I am planning for 1/8 grout lines. I am uncertain how to estimate the needed thickness of the thinset below the tile floor. Here is what I have thusfar for the start of my second row of tile.
1/2 in. Tile Flooring
1/8 in. Caulk
17 3/4 in. First row of tile ( tile is 11 7/8 by 17 3/4)
1/8 in. Grout line
18 1/2 – Total thus far
Does this seem correct to you? Any suggestions?
How much should I add for the thinset between the cement base and the tile floor?
Once I determine the starting point for me second row of tile I plan to add 17 7/8 for each additional tile to calculate where my niche framing should be.
Hey Allan,
The bottom of your niche should start at about 36 3/8″ and end at 54 1/4″. If the caulk line at the floor ends up being a bit less than 1/8″ that’s fine – I usually use 1/16″, but that will give you room to adjust a bit if needed. The height is about 1/8″ high in case you need adjustment there as well, you can always set the top piece a little lower – you can’t shove it up into the wall further.
The thinset should be about 1/8″ thick when you’re done, but that depends on the trowel your using too. That’s average.
Hey Roger,
Awesome site – just found it a few days ago. Can you explain how to use a water ballon to plug the drain for the water test? Should i inflate the ballon with water and use it to plug the drain? How do i keep it from falling down the drain?
thanks,
Hey Duncan,
Fill the water balloon so it is just a bit bigger than your 2″ pipe, then shove it down in there. It won’t fall down the drain provided it is over 2″ in circumference. If it does you can always just shove a wire or hanger down in there to pop it – it won’t destroy anything if it gets away from you.
Hi Mr. Elf,
I am confused about the metal lathe. I read where you shape it into a “U” shape and place it over the curb that is covered by the liner, but how do you make it flat on top like in your finished pictures? Please take some pictures of your metal lathe prior to mudding so I can grasp the concept. This will be my first shower floor. Thanks!
Hi Gigi,
It’s a flat ‘U’, not a curved one. The angles are 90 degrees. I’ll email you a photo.
I’m redoing my shower and I had the floor done it is a solid peace of cultured marble and now I’m on to the curb. I don’t know what to do next on it. It is a 2×4 curb and the liner for the floor is overlaped and nailed to the curb. My question is what do I do after the curb is covered with waterproof liner. Do I put cement board around it because the rest of the shower and the curb is going to be tile? Please help thanks
Hi Hayden,
The curb needs to be covered with wire lath. This is the diamond-mesh looking stuff. You want to form it into a ‘U’ and place it over the top of your curb to both hold down the liner and give your mud something to grab.
Then you want to form a surface for tile over your curb out of wet mud – which is just regular deck mud with a bit of lime in it to make it sticky. Mix some of that up and cover the curb and lath with it. Once cured you can install your tile directly to it.
Just making sure I understand some things correctly. Yes, Sparky, againnnnnnnnnn. To make the surface of the curb, can one use Quicrete’s Mason Mix? It already has the lime in it? Can it also be used to put bricks together for a masonry shower bench or is a modified thinset better for that/quicker? So many mortars, so many waterproofings, so many choices. A very complicated work world you live in, Roger.
Thanks,
Ceci
Yes, you can use mason mix. You can use mason mix or thinset for the bench, either will work just fine.
Good, since I don’t trust anyone to just add lime to the mortar one is using for the slopes. So, don’t care if I have to buy extra stuff I really don’t need to make sure it’s done correctly. Being super serious, especially since I just removed those hardiebacker boards the original dodos put on and was disgusted in what I saw. The original dodos, I know mean of me to keep calling them that, but it’s true, didn’t put in the additional stud that I requested in the right place. I was even anal measuring where it needs to go, showed them where it needs to go, even put pieces of duct tape over the cement wall to make sure it was put in the proper place, but stillllllllll not put in the proper place. The reason I was so anal about it is because wanted to make sure the grab bar for mommy was screwed into something solid.
OK, done with the b*tching. Don’t tell Sparky I used that word, please. I think it’s best to just buy new hardiebacker boards and not reuse the ones they put up. Seems like the safest way to go since in many places the dodos screwed them in very close to the edge of them and some of the boards are chipped/broken at the edges. The reason they got so close, I think, is because they were too lazy to add more studs in order for the hardiebacker boards to have a stud to grab to. I know there is probably a way to patch them up, but have a feeling the new guys may not even bother. What do you think, buy new boards or not? Also, if I buy new boards may make it easier to convince them to cut them properly in order to have those beloved gaps that I so want. I don’t think you have mentioned anywhere, if the boards should or should not butt against the frame(studs) of the walls to be. Yes or no, or doesn’t matter? I would think not since those are big ass studs and would think they would expand/contract big time, but what do I know.
Thanks,
Ceci
Hey, Roger, any words of advice regarding prepping a curb to support a “frameless” glass shower wall sitting on a course of stone tile? I suppose it should go without saying that the curb, thinset etc. should be free of voids. What bothers me is reading the instructions for installation of these panels, which blithely refer to drilling holes through a thing (the curb) I’ve fanatically ensured is waterproof under the stone.
Is is safe to say that if the holes for fasteners are thoroughly filled w/high quality silicon caulk, the fastener will end up with a watertight seal as it passes through the various layers, particularly the membrane?
Hey Doug,
Just make it as solid as you possible can. Zero voids anywhere and 100% coverage behind the tile. Once you set the tiles in place pull them back up and ensure you have full coverage. Once cured it’ll be a nice, solid curb. I hate drilling through waterproofing, with some products, however, it is required. Just make sure you completely fill the drilled hole with 100% silicone (caulk or acrylic in any form will shrink and may compromise the seal) before inserting the fasteners. And when I say fill it – I mean fill it. You can wipe off excess, you cannot add more once your fasteners are in place.
Thank you!
I wish I’d hovered at a lower altitude over the guys that installed the shower enclosure upstairs here; having pored over your site for hours I’m now squinting at that curb and wondering whether they just blasted through with a drill and called it good. It was bad enough listening to a hammer drill going through brand new granite, though no collateral damage was done. That shower is heavily used but only three years old so if it’s leaking it may be too early for the wood to swell or our excellent Lab-GSP mutt to burst into flames.
We really like the look so I’m imitating the same deal downstairs, only in this case any mistakes will have my signature under ’em…
Hi Roger, my husband and I were blessed in the fact that someone turned us onto your website just as we got the old fiberglass shower out. We are moisture barriering (is that a word?0 behind our cement board and we are using thin-set on top of our cement subfloor, …presloping with deck mud, using a liner, and sloping again, my question is..on the curb, brick of course per your instructions, do we still need to run the liner over and out and use metal lathe? We have red guard……Also would love directions for a shower seat….
Hi Angela,
Yes, you still need to wrap the curb and use lath and mud. The waterproofing still needs to run up and over your curb. It’s the only way to ensure the waterproofing is fully intact. Building a shower seat is on my list of things to write – it’s a long list.
Hey Roger, im back with another question!! if i have a brick curb should i just lay the metal lath over the liner and mud, or am i suppose to attach the liner to the brick with something on the outside of the curb, i read with the wood curb you nail it but figured a masonry nail would crack my brick. Thanks
Hey Justin, welcome back!
Just wrap your liner over the bricks and use the metal lath to hold it in place. Then just mud your curb and attach the tile directly to the mud. The wire lath both holds the liner in place and gives you a substrate for your mud to hold onto.
man, I’m just as confused about the cutting of the liner as I was when I first read it and what holds the metal tight on the inside of the dam?…thank you Will.
Hi Wilbur,
Just cut your liner from the top inside corner of the curb to the top outside corner of the curb and glue a dam corner to waterproof it. The easiest way to do it is to buy your dam corners then place them up there on the top of the curb to see what they cover. There is ‘technically’ no right or wrong way to cut it. Ideally you want about a 2″ overlap of the dam corner from wherever you cut the liner to ensure a full bond.
The metal is held tight on the inside and outside of the curb by the ‘spring’ action of the metal lath when you bend it in the U shape. You want to overbend it so that when you place it over the curb it will spring back and hold the liner.