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How to Clean your Tile Grout

by Roger

When I started this site it was intended to only focus on issues of installation. Through research I discovered a greater demand for information related to existing flooring. This particular subject was at the top of the list.

So, like every politician has promised and failed to deliver, I will give the people what they want! Well, as much as I can, anyway.

Out of curiosity I typed “how to clean grout” and “tile” into Google. I only made it through two pages of sites before I was fed up with all the crap from so-called “experts”. Ninety percent of what I discovered was bull!

Common sense dictates that you do not use bleach or hydrogen-peroxide (same effect) on any type of colored grout at all – ever. Yet this was the suggestion of most “experts”.  If you happen to have white sanded grout in your tile, you’re set. If not, you’re gonna screw it up more.

What’s “sanded” have to do with it, you may ask. Exactly. Without knowing the product you’re cleaning, it will be difficult to clean it properly. That being said typed, let’s start there.

Sanded vs. Unsanded Grout

For something that confuses some so much, this is actually relatively simple. The difference? Drum roll please . . . sanded grout has sand in it. Fairly anti-climactic, yes?  The implications are greater, though.

Sanded grout is used for grout lines (the space between the tiles) greater than 1/8 of an inch. I use it for grout lines 1/16 and larger. The reason sand is added is to prevent the grout from shrinking as it cures. If you attempt to use unsanded or non-sanded grout for larger grout lines it will shrink (sometimes as much as 50%) and look like hell.

Sanded grout is also much more stable and durable. Unsanded grout is used in smaller grout lines because sanded is difficult to force into the space. Because of this using sanded grout in smaller grout lines leaves open the possibility of not completely filling them which will, in time, lead to grout cracking, chipping out, and a number of other things that make an otherwise perfect tile job look sub-par.

Do I have sanded or unsanded grout in my tile?

I dunno, I can’t see it from here.

Sorry, I’m a bit warped, I stare at floors all day. There are several ways to determine this (the type of grout, not whether or not I’m warped). If you have large grout lines chances are it’s sanded grout. If it’s a shower with 4 X 4 or 6 X 6 inch tiles chances are it’s unsanded.

Run your finger across your grout, if it’s rough you have sanded grout. If you run your thumbnail along the grout line and you scrape a bit of grout out of it, you probably have non-sanded. If your grout is smooth, it is non-sanded.

Okay, what does that have to do with cleaning it?

The methods below describe how to clean grout in tile that is not natural stone – granite, marble, travertine, etc. You do not want to scrub these with a stiff brush as you risk scratching the stone. If you have natural stone the best solution is to either try the method below using a cotton cloth rather than a stiff brush, or purchasing a commercial stone cleaner. Not a grocery store bathroom cleaner, a specialized stone cleaner available at places like Home Depot and follow the instructions. Seriously, follow the instructions.

As with anything you do to your tile, or flooring in general, make sure to test the method in an inconspicuous spot to ensure it won’t harm your tile or grout.

Let’s deal with sanded grout first. After it cures, sanded grout is actually less dense than unsanded. This means more “stuff” permeates further into the grout itself. Anything you use to clean sanded grout will completely saturate into the grout, all the way to the floor beneath.

You can use bleach on sanded white grout. With a bleach/water ratio of 1/10 (umm, 1 bleach, 10 water, but you knew that) and a stiff brush you can scrub the grout lines. The grout is already white (or used to be) so bleach will not discolor it. Spray or dab the solution onto the stain and let it sit for about two minutes. Then take the stiff brush and scrub.  Scrub hard, you’re not going to hurt it. Then rinse it with clean water. Repeat as necessary, as they say.

Hey moron, you may say, I don’t have white grout in my floor! That’s all right, no one else does either. The same method applies. Use white vinegar rather than bleach. Start with a 50/50 ratio of white vinegar and water, spray or dab it onto the area, let it sit, then rinse.

You can gradually make the mixture stronger as needed. Start with 50/50 . If that isn’t strong enough simply add  additional vinegar. You can use straight white vinegar as well, it shouldn’t harm your tile or grout at all. Just scrub it until the grout gives up and you’ve scrubbed it into submission.

Unsanded grout, because it is more dense, is less apt to let stains in much farther than the initial top layer of the grout. So you just have to scrub that. Using the above method should work well.

The problem most people have is that they think if they scrub some of the actual grout out of the tile it will somehow compromise the tile itself – it will not. Grout has absolutely nothing to do with holding the tiles in place, stabilizing the tile, or any number of other things people are led to believe by the aforementioned “experts”. Absolutely nothing. So scrub away.

That’s it. This method should take care of most stains and discolorations in your grout. But, you say, all you’ve told me is to scrub the grout. Well, mostly. I do not claim to be an expert on the easy way. I am, however, well versed on the correct way. The above is the correct way. Sorry.

There is no magical solution that will gather up a stain and pull it out of the grout (unless it’s blood, hydrogen-peroxide will do that. Don’t ask me how I know that). While the grout does not make a difference with the stability of the tile itself, a lot of on the market cleaners will eventually compromise the integrity of the grout. The solutions above will not. Stains do not come out of cement-based products easily. Ever try to get oil off of your driveway? Grout is a cement-based product.

Sometimes once it’s stained, you will not be able to remove it. Don’t spend hundreds of dollars trying all the magical formulas, they don’t work. Think about it like this: if you spill cherry kool-aid on your white grout, do you really think that stuff in that bottle you just bought for $30.00 will remove it? It won’t. You’re stuck scrubbing. But that actually works better (and it’s less expensive).

If doing this does not remove your stain or discoloration to your satisfaction you may be better off just replacing the grout. Don’t let that scare you at all. It’s fairly easy and you can do it, believe it or not, for about $25.00. Less than a bottle of “magic”.

But that is a whole different post. Until then stop changing your oil on the kitchen floor.

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Lucy March 6, 2012 at 2:49 pm

Hello, I have a terracotta floor – tiles were unsealed when laid and then sealed with linseed oil. The grout was left unsealed but started to look grubby so I cleaned it and then tried to seal both tiles and grout with boiled linseed oil. The tiles look good but the grout is patchy and uneven in colour like the oil has been absorbed in places and not in others – tried to scrub out the oil with vinegar solution but there are still dark bits. Any suggestions please?

Thanks

Lucy

Reply

Roger March 6, 2012 at 5:24 pm

Hi Lucy,

It was likely due to inconsistent grout line depths due to the amount of thinset throughout the installation. The areas with more grout are more porous and soak up more linseed oil. You may want to try some enhancing sealer on the grout only. That should even it out for you and seal it as well.

Reply

Daisy Mak October 10, 2011 at 2:26 pm

Hi, Jeff.

We had to use unsanded grout for our textured, natural-stone tiles for the entryway right inside the front door. We haven’t found a cleaner that will remove the unsanded grout from the tile surface. Will your vinegar solution work to remove the unsanded grout from the tile surfaces? We don’t really want to use any products with noxious fumes as we have a baby at home and we can’t leave the front door open for ventilation.

Cheers,
Daisy

Reply

Roger October 10, 2011 at 9:15 pm

Hi George (I’m Roger, not Jeff – but I’ve been called a LOT worse than that :D )

A 10:1 solution of hot water – white vinegar and a micro-fiber towel should be sufficient to get rid of your grout haze. If you need more just add a bit more vinegar at a time. Do not go over about 4:1. Vinegar is an acid and may etch your natural stone. I don’t know what type of stone you have – some are softer than others. But acid will etch them all if strong enough. Always test on a scrap piece first.

Reply

Jeff May 9, 2011 at 8:43 pm

Hi. I would like to add a method. I tried yours and it only semi-worked for me, and resulted in lots of hard labor. I have about 1500sqft of tile, so it was a big job…

First let me say your site is the only thing that got me anything that worked at all, so thanks!

My original and difficult method semi based on the above was to first steam as much dirt as i could out with a fine-point steamer attachment (like a pencil tip hole or a little bigger for max pressure)…and then use the method above, i.e. bleach and scrubbing. This worked to some degree, but couldnt handle some spots where the grout was laid rougher

Leave it to me to get 90% done before i happened upon the golden method that made it a breeze: Reverse the order. Lay the bleach first, and wait 1-5 minutes. Then, with the bleach still on, use the steamer with the little high pressure tip mentioned above, and shoot the grout. Holy crap, compared to what i was dealing with before, the dirt just FLEW off. and also: my now dry grout i’ve used this method on is now whiter WITH NO SCRUBBING than the entire rest of the floor that i slaved over.

So. Bleach, wait a few, steam, wipe up the water/bleach excess with a garbage towel as you go…DONE.

Booya. i had to come back here and share this because i searched for hours trying to find something that would help me make this not so painful.

Reply

Roger May 9, 2011 at 8:45 pm

Thanks Jeff, I’ll update this post over the weekend to let everyone know. Never even thought about that, glad to hear it works so well.

Thanks for sharing – you rock! :rockon:

Reply

Sandra March 9, 2011 at 3:56 pm

Hi, I have durango travertine on my floor and years ago a glossy finish & sealer (I think by Tile Lab) was put on the floor. It was very soft and everything scratched it, even light things like the wheels to the vac. I finally sanded the finish off my floor, but I’m left with the finish on the grout lines. I’ve cleaned them well but the grout lines look discolored. Could it be that dirt has penetrated into the soft finish? The lines are still shiney from the finish that was applied. I tried a stripper on part of the grout but that has left the grout lines grey and mottled. Is there anything that will sand the finish off the grout lines? Do you have any other suggestion for me? I have about 1300 sq. ft. of bone sanded grout. Thanks for your help.

Reply

Roger March 9, 2011 at 5:04 pm

Hey Sandra,

It sounds like the old sealer has finally been worn down and stained, although to be honest I’m not absolutely certain that’s why it has started discoloring. Regardless, unless it is only discolored in places that gets regular sunlight shining on it, it has stained for some reason, but you already knew that. :D Being that it is a topical sealer it’s very possible that it’s only the sealer (or mostly the sealer) that is stained. If a stripper doesn’t work you will need to manually remove the stripper. The only way I can think of to do that would be to try a drywall sanding sponge. Just run it back and forth across the grout lines and it should begin to lighten up to the original grout color as the sealer is removed.

Once you get it removed use an impregnating sealer rather than a topical sealer on it. It will seal the pores in the grout and stone without making it ‘shiny’.

Reply

Tony December 23, 2010 at 8:29 am

I’ve just finished a bar floor using 12×12 slate. The thickness of the tiles is of course all over the place. The first slate job I did I spent hours pre-arranging all the tiles so that the edges lined up with minimal amounts of lippage. I’ve since figured out it’s much easier to just set the tiles and then go back with a tiny chisel and “sculpt” any edges that are too high. Is there another technique that can be used to get these :censored: ’n tiles to be flat so no one trips on them? Grouting this stuff is a pain too (done a couple showers both using 4×4 slate, ughhh). Is there any techniques you could recommend, besides having lots of clean water and sponges handy?

Reply

Roger December 23, 2010 at 7:34 pm

Hey Tony,

I absolutely hate slate that is not gauged (nor rectified, for that matter). The chisel works all right but can get tedious quickly. I have used my grinder to knock it down and go back over it with some polishing pads. There’s really no good answer to that part short of explaining to your customer what to expect should they choose that tile and be sure to charge for the time it takes you to do it. If you lay it out for them they’ll realize it will actually be cheaper for them to buy good slate than to save a couple of bucks on the stone and pay you to fix it all.

Before you grout your tile you can either use grout release (it actually works pretty well on slate) or give it a couple of coats of a good sealer. The grout release is cheaper but quicker. The sealer is more expensive but it saves multiple coats of sealer after you grout it. Either one makes it a lot easier to get the excess grout off.

Reply

LIZ March 15, 2010 at 6:45 pm

Hi, i found your article most knowledgable and have a question about ceramic 12 inch by 8 inch
wall tile I will be grouting. They have 1/8 inch space. I was told to use sanded grout. Is this correct? The tilr is a matt finish, will the tile scratch when putting on the grout? Should we use a plastic or metal float?Should I seal the grout? The fellow at Home Depot recommended a brand called Surface Guard website is http://www.custombuildingproducts.com He said it has a 20 yr warranty against staining…do you know the product? Thanks for your help! Liz

Reply

Roger March 15, 2010 at 7:47 pm

Hi Liz,

Sanded grout is correct. A matte finish should not scratch at all with a sanded grout. As with anything related to tile and chemicals, though, always test it on an extra or scrap piece to ensure that. Always use a plastic (rubber) grout float to grout tile. If you purchase an ‘epoxy’ grout float it will work a bit easier. They are made of a softer rubber or a gum rubber and assist with getting the grout firmly into the grout lines.

You should seal the grout. I have not had personal experience with surface guard but custom products makes excellent materials. Sealer is one item with which the cost is directly related to the quality. In other words you will get what you pay for. The more expensive the better the product. With any sealer you will want to follow their directions exactly for the installation of the product to get the best results.

If you have any other questions at all please don’t hesitate to ask.

Reply

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