When there is a significant amount of movement on the substrate of a tiled floor or wall it may lead to grout cracking. When this happens it will leave what looks like a crack in the grout where it has come away from the tile. Unless your grout was installed very recently this is always due to movement in the tile. If your grout is new it may be caused by incorrectly mixed grout. With grout that has been doing this for a while it may lead to whole chunks of grout coming loose and leaving large voids in your grout lines.
While it may be tempting to simply mix up some more grout and fill these voids you need to know that it will not last. If you do this it will fill the grout lines just like new but over time will lead to the same problem. Grout over grout is not a permanent solution.
Why it won’t last
The first reason is that when you go over the top of grout that is already cured with new grout, there is no adhesion to the old grout. It will instead simply create a layer of grout on top of the old grout. These layers have no way of sticking to each other. When you grout tile the grout actually sticks to the sides of the tile rather than whatever substrate is beneath it. While it will stick to the substrate at the bottom of the grout lines to an extent, it is not a permanent bond. Attempting to grout over the top of old grout is simply stacking two seperate layers of grout. It will always remain two seperate layers.
The second reason is no matter how much of the old grout you may take out to install new, if you do not fix the actual reason the grout failed in the first place, eventually the same thing will happen again. As with any problem you may encounter with a tile installation, you must figure out the initial cause and fix it to prevent repeated problems. This is an involved process which I will cover in a different article. For now I’ll stick with the solution for the grout problem.
What to do
Rather than simply filling the grout line where the grout is missing, you must remove the old grout at least 2/3 the depth of the tile so the new grout has a feasible surface to grab onto. The easiest way to do this is with a grout saw. Ideally you would remove the old grout all the way to the substrate before regrouting it, but 2/3 will be sufficient if it is difficult to remove.
You need to remove any of the old grout that seems loose or has come loose from the sides of the tile. You also need to make sure the spot where the new grout butts against the old is a 90 degree angle, or close to it. In other words from the top of the grout line straight down. You do not want a slope. Eventually a slope must be feathered to a very thin edge. That will be the first place it will fail again, any very thin layer. A 90 degree angle prevents that.
It is also better to make the transition from old grout to new in the middle of a grout line rather than at one of the corners of the tile. The grout line at the corner of the tile has six different spots it can fail, the middle of a grout line has only one. It lessens the chance of failure.
After you remove the sufficient amount of the old grout just mix some new grout and fill the lines. You must make sure you force the new grout into the grout lines very well. You want to make certain there are no voids and the lines are full.
The above method will work to temporarily fix your cracking grout. As I pointed out above, you must find the initial reason for the grout failure before a permanent fix will last. It’s difficult to say how long this fix will work, it may be two weeks, it may last a year. That depends on the severity of the problem that caused it. It also depends on the application (wall or floor) and how much use it gets. A floor in your main entryway will not last as long as a shower that is never used.
You should also take into consideration the age of the grout. If you are repairing grout that has been installed for five years, the new grout, even if it is the same brand and color, will not likely match perfectly. The best solution, of course, would be to fix the cause of the cracking and regrout the entire floor. Depending on what you’re fixing and why this method may solve your problem.
Hello Roger, I installed a tiled steam shower almost 3 years ago using the kerdi system. Everything works great but I have noticed that the rock floor we used seems to be getting uncomfortable in areas. I just figured that the grout has been wearing down with time. No cracks and no loose sanded grout can be seen throughout the floor. What solutions do I have for adding grout to the floor? Removal of all of the grout would be out of the question since the rocks tend to leave wide areas of grout and the shower is 6′ x 4.5′.
Hi James,
Your only option is to remove and replace the floor. There are no options to regrout or add grout to stones like that. Sorry.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for maintaining a site with so much helpful information. I’m in the last stages of a shower rebuild using a bath size shower base and 1′ x 1′ tile over a kerdi membrane/drywall surround. Your site has been my guide for most of the project. Used your instructional video for making a 4″ hole with an angle grinder too (and still have all my fingers/toes)!
I’ve been looking for suggestions on your site on sanded vs unsanded caulk but haven’t found anything yet. I’ll be using sanded grout as I have 1/4″ grout lines. Should I only use the sanded caulk for caulked joints larger than 1/8″?
Would it be a good idea to use caulk rather than grout in the bottom joints of a shower niche (used a Kerdi Niche as the form).
Also curious if you have any strong preference for/against GE’s Supreme Kitchen/Bath Silicone (available only in White unsanded) vs Polyblend’s silicone products (which match their grout colors).
BTW, I drink a lot of Pepsi, but not much beer
Hey Jeff,
If you’re going to use caulk and your gaps are 1/8″ or larger you need to use sanded caulk. The better choice is silicone, all silicone is virtually identical, custom’s (polyblend) is a good silicone. I would use that over the sanded caulk. Yes, it’s always best to silicone ALL changes of plane.
I grouted porcelain tile with an unsanded colored grout ( from Lowes) a few nights ago. Today when cleaning up some of our construction mess, I notice several cracked areas that just vacuumed right out of the crevice. What did I do wrong? I have never grouted before and now I need to figure out how to fix it. The tiles are 1/8″ apart and it is a small area. Thanks you!
Hi Rae Ann,
It could be a number of things. My guess would be that the unsanded grout shrunk and pulled away from the sides of the tile before bonding. You should be able to go over it with more unsanded.
Hey Roger, i installed a bath floor using porcelain tile about 2.5 years ago. The builder wanted me to use some 1/4″ Hardie backer board (i usually use 1/4″ Durock) that he had left over from somewhere. We wet it before setting the tile. I have been back since then 2 or 3 times to replace grout that has come up. it is not cracking or crumbling it is larger pieces ( maybe anywhere from a half inch to a couple of inches). i have been doing this builders tile work for several years and have never had any problems with any floor we have installed for them. None of the tiles are loose at all. I am very puzzled! What could cause this???
Hi Barry,
Do you have thinset beneath the backer?
Last night I applied unsanded grout to some wall tiles for a downstairs showers with 3mm grout lines. In one or two areas while I was wiping down the tiles a small section of grout pitted a little. I was able to buff the grout line to a nice finish, but the grout line is more recessed than I like. Is it reasonable to apply a bit more grout tonight to fill in the deeper line, or do I need to clean this line and redo? Also, any tips to avoid this in the future?
Hi Dylan,
Yes, you can apply more (even tonight
). Unsanded grout is a pain in the ass, I normally need to go over it twice due to the shrinking, that’s what causes the issues you’re having.
Had a slightly similar situation. Did a small area 4 days ago with unsanded grout, now have a few hairline cracks and some pin holes probably due to over wiping. Should I apply more as well?
Hi Aaron,
Yes.
Shortest. Answer. Ever.
We have a tile floor that is 4 yrs old. The grout is pittiing and coming out in places. The installer is saying we put something on it to cause it. We have only used water and bona floor tile cleaner. I don’t think the grout was properly mixed. Any idea.
Hi Joe,
It could be a number of things including incorrect mixing, not slaking, letting it set too long, too much water in clean-up, improper substrate, etc. Are your tiles moving AT ALL?
Hi, Roger
I had a bathroom shower stall entirely lined by tile and the grout seam under the 6′ long granite sill is particularly wide, maybe a half inch, and is the only area that tends to crack. Recently, while throwing pails of water against the tiles/sill to wash off a product, I found efflorescence on the outside of the shower emanating from that seam under the sill. I know grout isn’t waterproof but this bothered me as being a bit much and made me wonder about small amount of water seeping under the sill over time. I suppose refilling that grout line to remove cracks would help, but should I do anything else, and should I be concerned about this?
Hi Joe,
Do you have any idea what type (or even if there is) of waterproofing is behind your tile? No waterproofing would be the only thing that would cause efflorescence outside the shower. I would remove the granite sill and see what you have beneath there.
Hi Roger,
Help! Eight months ago we installed a new kitchen starting with our new porcelain tile floor. I now have cracking in the grout lines through out the entire floor space, just over 500 square feet. I have approximately 4 loose tiles in various places on the floor including one under a table area so a lower traffic area. I also have one broken tile and our family has not dropped anything. We have 3/4 plywood, thin set, Ditra, thin set and the our porcelain tile. I know that the modified thin set goes between the plywood and the Ditra and the unmodified between the Ditra and the porcelain tile. I do wonder if these might have been reversed by my contractor I have no proof at this time. I recently had a Ditra person here while a tile was lifted. He thought I had good adhesion and believes at this time that I probably have a grout problem. He is recommending a re-grout or to skim over the cracks with new thin grout. I read your remarks and re skimming is a big No. I am being told that when my kitchen island was set with a large quartz countertop that this may have caused movement in the floor and that could be the cause for my cracking. I cannot believe this because the cracking extends all the way around a corner to my front door area. My understanding is that Ditra is a great product I read all your reasons for failure. Why am I still being told my floor is moving? What really to I need to do next or be looking at?
Hi Suzie,
If you only have a single layer of 3/4″ ply that is why your floor is still moving. You also did not mention your joist structure, it may not be up to the job of supporting a tile installation. You need a minimum of 1 1/8″ double layer of plywood over your joists. If your tiles are cracking or coming loose it is not a grout issue. And even if your thinsets were reversed that likely wouldn’t be the issue either.
Joist are 16″oc. Should a contractor laying tile know that a heavier subfloor would be needed or is 3/4″ plywood at times acceptable? I have been reading all I can and read the Ditra installation book. My understanding in the Ditra handbook is that a 3/4″ subfloor is acceptable however my tile manufacturer goes by the guidelines stated in the TCNA handbook which is also what you stated. I guess I want to know as a homeowner is this my responsibility? What you have told me make sense to me as the cause of my problems. I feel like I am just getting the run around from my contractor since he won’t even look at my grout cracking.
It is the contractor’s responsibility. The only time ditra is acceptable over a single layer of 3/4″ ply is with ditra-XL, not regular ditra.
Hi Steve,
We recently installed tile next to existing tile, and chose a much darker grout, I think it looks silly having the two colours next to eachother. We love the new grout colour and hubby doesn’t want to use a stain because that would change the new grout colour.
Is there a way to do a thin coat of grout overtop the existing grout? Like maybe rough it up ( what tools to use?) and seal it? There is no issues with lose tiles or grout chipping away.
Hi George (who the hell is Steve?
),
You can not skim over grout, it will flake away in short time. You need to use the colorant or remove the existing grout down to 2/3 the depth of the tile and regrout. I know that isn’t what you wanted to hear, sorry.
Hi, We have a 1950’s tile shower, with very thin grout lines. It is really hard to get a lot of the grout out since it is so narrow, but we will do our best. We have done this every few years, and have to redo since the shower starts leaking and the newer grout eventually falls out. Could you recommend any products besides traditional grout? We were wondering if there was some sort of silicone or caulk that still may look good, but seal and stick better? Or is grout the only answer….? This time we will definitely seal after, which we have never done before. Will that alone do the trick to make it last longer?
Hi Norma,
The underlying issue is that your substrate is moving in some manner causing the grout to crack. Sealer WILL NOT make your grout waterproof. Tile and grout are not waterproof. You can try a urethane grout, that would likely be your best option for durability, but short of fixing the underlying movement issue you’ll likely end up doing it again as well.
I just moved into a house and it snaps, crackles and pops in every room. It is from the 70’s. The bathroom is the real irritant. It has a heated floor mat by Sun Touch, which they installed with thin set (I think) then laid 12″ tiles over that. It is not level, I can see the wiring/mat between the tiles where caulk has fallen out. I worry about water getting under the tiles, since this is the bathroom.
I suspect you will tell me I have to take it all out, which will damage the heating element, most likely. I’m a senior woman and not sure how to remove the tiles, let alone the heating element in thin set.
Shall I just take a hammer to it? After, that is, finding where to pull the wire from the electricity, which isn’t on it’s own breaker so I can’t just turn it off.
Then, ‘if’ I manage to do all of that, how do I proceed? Is there a bathroom flooring better for old uneven houses, than tile? I’m not the handiest woman, but I also have no money.
Hi Molly,
Yes, it should be removed. The heating element is likely wired into the junction box behind the light switches and it may require an electrician to remove it (per code in your area). A hammer and pry bar will likely be your best option.
Sorry, I know that isn’t what you wanted to hear. I would get someone to unhook your heating element from the electricity then hire a couple of local kids to remove the tile and everything for you. Tile can be installed nearly anywhere, but it needs to be properly installed for a given structure.
Thank you, I was afraid you’d say that. I’m concerned if I’ll be able to make the floor level enough for new tile, after I remove the heating mat, Old house and all.
Google a product called “self-leveling cement”. It will level the floor for you!
Thank you!! Wonder if that will work OVER the heating mat, in case it is so hard to remove I decide to leave it?
Yes, it will work great over the heating mat.
Hi Roger,
Glad I found your website and have read posts on re-grouting. I bought a 1960’s house four years ago; the former owner had gray slate tile installed over the concrete front porch and it looks nice except it is a little slippery when it rains. My problem: Last year, two or three of the outer-edge tile were accidently kicked loose and now I am noticing the grout between most of the other tile appears to be shrinking and beginning to recede! The previous owner had left a roller bottle of sealant w/no instructions, so nothing has been done … My question: Since the old grout is well below the top edges of the tile, may I simply add a new layer of grout over the old IF there is enough bonding area with the tile? If so, then do I also need to seal the new layer of grout? Annually, or? What is a reasonable labor price? Porch is approx 5 x 14. Thanks! –Senior-citizen Helen
Hi Helen,
If there is 2/3 of the depth of the tile exposed then you can grout over it. If not it needs to be taken down at least that far. The tile should not shrink, it is a cement product. It may have been incorrectly mixed or installed wrong. You will not have to regrout every year, grout is permanent. Labor price varies wildly, call three or four contractors and you should see the average.
Shower wall grout, angles and movement.
Plus floor tile.
To start with I live in an old house. 1917 old.
Also for both the shower and the floor the workers took everything down to the studs so they could start from scratch. No blaming someone else’s work because they had to build on it.
After they were done installing the shower and redoing some of the tile floor I pointed out somethings but they just brush them off which is driving me crazy. Especially after reading your instructions on how to install backer board and grouting.
-I point out that the bottom portions walls, starting 2 or 3 feet from the floor, bow/slant in towards the center of the shower.
-They say “Its due to the shower pan/material that runs up behind the wall which is pushing it out. Don’t worry about it, everyone does it that way.”
-Really? My neighbors doesn’t.
-I point out that the shower floor is so flat that the water from the shower only meanders slowly towards the drain. I’ll grant this isn’t a huge issue for me, it just seems wrong in that it would be a no brainier when putting in a shower to ensure the floor slants in towards the drain at a reasonable angle.
No standing water occurs.
-They say “it doesn’t matter, any water that seeps though the grout will be caught by the shower roll out pvc shower pan liner.”
(I think of the shower pan as a back up safty device but I what do I know)?
It is? or is it constantly utilized to catch water that seeps through the grout and cracks?
-I point out that the grout around the interior edges of the shower is coming out in chunks only weeks after they finished. I can stick a screwed driver in it, I can dig is out with a tooth pick, I can dig it out with my fingers, I can dig it out by spraying water or washing water over it. It is as if they used a combination of rubber cement and sand for grout.
They come and “fix it” by caulking in and over the gaping grout gaps. No digging things out.
-When they come back again to redo things, should everything be dug out 2/3s of the way down or should the few solid grout areas areas be left alone?
-“They say leave the hard areas and just get out the loose stuff. Then caulk.”
-Should any replacement grout be put in before caulking?
-I point out that I can push on the very bottom of the shower wall and it bends backwards, opening up and extending the existing cracks in the grout MUCH more so.
-They say, “Don’t worry about that. The pvc shower pan will catch all of that. Plus it isn’t out fault, it is because the studs are 16 inches apart. Don’t worry about it. When would you ever push on the wall down there anyways?”
I say it should have been reenforced to prevent this from happening. Do you do this kind of work in other houses? How do you think a customer would react if you told them from the outset that the shower walls would bend? Shouldn’t you have added extra studs?
(how far apart should studs be behind the wall board?
-They say “Everyone does it like this, there is no need to reenforce down there. The rest of the shower wall is solid. We have no complaints from other customers. This happens sometimes.”
Tile Floor.
-I point out that the area 1’x1′ where they had to add matching tile, starting from scratch (studs) was bowed enough for a puddle to form and that some of the tiles were sticking up slightly and that the grout lines were uneven. I note that the original floor (the house was build in 1917) is flat and even. If they could do it right 100 years ago what can’t you?
-They say “It is an old house, things move, we can’t duplicate the mud work (?) they did on the floor. Almost no one does mud work anyways. Your lucking you got us. Besides it is only around an 1/8 of an inch anyways. Tile is also hard to work with and match. Sometimes things are uneven. Nothing is perfect.”
(The tile is around 1″x1″ and is an exact duplicate)
-I point out that they have a perfect example to go by, the original floor. If they can do it, the original builders, you can do it in this Modern day.
I was sure the contractor would understand and remedy at least some of the issues I pointed out but they brushed off most everything I said.
Basically I was stunned.
ASSUMING my complaints / grievance are valid i need to convince my wife that we are not being treated fairly. She is less nit picky than I am by a large measure. Are there tile guidelines, guilds, local organizations, standards, anything that I can use or do to back these guys into a corner and admit they have done a shoddy job and fix things.
I checked my neighbors recently done showers and they were not like this.
I can send pictures if you need a better idea of what I am talking about.
Thanks
Drew
Hi Drew,
Everyone does NOT do it that way, the studs should be chiseled out to make room for the liner behind the substrate or the studs above the liner should be shimmed out to keep the substrate flat from top to bottom.
It’s true that it should make it’s way to the weep holes when it gets through the tile and grout, but the majority of the water should shed from the tile layer, not the liner layer. The floor still HAS to be angled at 1/4″ per foot. And there HAS to be a preslope beneath the liner.
All the grout should be removed and redone, and caulk only at changes of plane, not in regular grout lines.
16″ o.c. studs is normal. This only ‘happens sometimes’ when the contractor doesn’t know what the hell they are doing.
The only reason they can’t duplicate the mud work is because they don’t have the skill to do so – I do it all the time.
You ARE NOT being treated fairly, you have a contractor with less-than-adequate skills for your installation and what seems to be a serious lack of knowledge. You can contact a tile forensic expert (yes, we have those) and hire them to look and the installation and document what is wrong with it, and take his ass to court.
Your first step would be to grab a copy of the tcna manual, which lays out acceptable guidelines and proper installation procedures for all types of installations here: https://www.tcnatile.com/handbook-all/910-2014-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation.html. Go through it and mark the pages which apply to yours (I can help you find them if you get stuck).
After you do that you can call him and start quoting that stuff, it may do the trick since he apparently has never heard of the manual. I WOULD NOT let him fix anything else, he’s not doing it correctly and may exacerbate the issues. Get a refund, in full, and hire someone who knows what they’re doing.
If doing that doesn’t prod him find a forensic expert.
I recently installed Rialto White Porcelain tile (purchased at Lowes) in my kitchen. I really love the tile, however not so much with the grout that I used which is Polyblend Sanded Grout (purchased at Home Depot) because Lowes did not have the color grout that I wanted. The first bag used seemed to go pretty well, but the second bag seemed to be very loose and I ended up with very uneven grout line depths. Hope this makes sense….pretty much, I have many low spots. I also have grout that is cracking and some chipping already. Any suggestions on what I can do about this? The install was approximately one month ago. I waited because everyone said to give the grout time to harden (approximately 2 weeks). I added sealer to the grout mix, but I have not sealed the grout yet with any of those products that are like a pen to go over the grout. Also, one last thing as if this was not enough…the tiles have pits that have grout in them, any suggestion for removing it? I would appreciate your suggestions/help. Thanks so much! ;-)
Hi Susan,
You added sealer to the grout??? What kind of sealer? If it was a regular tile or grout sealer then that is likely your problem. You should be able to get the grout out of the pits with a white scrub pad.
I am laying out a tile mosaic. There are some large areas with no tiles because of the design. I don’t want to fill the areas with just grout. Any ideas like maybe glass balls or beads?
Hi Roseann,
You can get glass mosaics pieces separately online. Will that work?
Hi, my husband put a glass backsplash at his mothers house, he read the
directions wrong and grouted the backsplash and left it on all the tile over
night. How can we get this off without doing damage to the glass?
Thank you.
Mary
Hi Mary,
A plastic putty knife, normally found in the paint section, should take the grout off without damaging the glass.
HELP! Moved into a home w/ large tile floor area (home 10yrs. old when we bought). Flooring looked beautiful, beige tile w/ tan grout. Knowing NOTHING about tile floors I was mopping fairly regular to keep clean. A year in, I started seeing cracking along edges of grout so I stopped wet mopping thinking water was seeping in. Now chunks are chipping out and there’s a dirty sandy grout underneath…looks like this tan color was “painted” over it. The underlying grout is cracked and you can seeing it’s pulled away from tile. If I stand or press on the tile it seems to move a bit, I can hear a crunching sound. This movement is in a couple spots (the rest of tile seems secure) but this “paint” is still chipping away everywhere! Can the individual loose tiles be fixed? And any idea about the whole grout/painting job in general? Floor getting worse day by day, hate for anyone to see. Tile in kitchen, eating area, laundry, entry from garage, gets heavy traffic. Love the ceramic tile but…bad grout, bad instillation, any hopes that it can be fixed and how??
Hi Ruth,
Individual tiles can be fixed, but you’ll likely end up with the same problem. There is something causing movement of your tile. It could be inadequate support from the framing, improper substrate, incorrect bonding of the tile, etc. There are a lot of potential causes, most of which require replacement of the tile and substrate.
If the grout over which they painted the colorant was not cleaned, new, or prepped properly then the colorant will not bond long-term. It may have been a case of simply painting over the grout rather than cleaning or repairing it. In that case the floor would likely need to be completely regrouted after the existing grout is removed.
Sorry, I know none of that is what you wanted to hear.
The grout between the tile on both our bathroom floor and shower wall is uneven. Not only does it look visually unappealing, it also leaves sharp edges where I see and feel the sides of the tile. My father-in-law is the one doing the project and my husband doesn’t want to offend him by pointing it out to him. Can we go back and put more grout over the existing grout at a later date (quite possibly a month later)?
Hi Catherine,
If you do that you’ll need to remove all the existing grout to get the new stuff to bond.
Hi! Two days ago I grouted the backsplash in a home I am redoing. However, I don’t like the color after it dried (should have went with my first choice!!) Anyway, do I need to scrape the grout out (and if so, how do I do this), or can I do a light layer of the desired color on top of the current one. I’m going from a light tan to white. Thanks so much!
Linda
Hi Linda,
It needs to be scraped out. A thin layer will flake off within a couple of weeks.
Hi! I think I already know the answer you will give me according to your previous posts, but I just want to make sure.
We have just put in porcelain tiles in our kitchen, which gets decent traffic because it is in the middle of the house… any way… I used Keracolor sanded grout, and I’m assuming because of the way I sponged it, it dips in a little. I would like the grout to be level with the tiles, probably because I’m afraid I didn’t grout it enough and it won’t hold?! I don’t know. I haven’t sealed it yet, so, can I mix some more grout and do a “second layer” over what I have just finished (about 3 days ago). Also, once I seal it, do I have to worry about mopping it too hard and the grout thinning over time? Sorry if these are silly questions, I’m just nervous that I’m doing something wrong! 
Thanks!
Hi Sarah,
Nothing silly at all. The grout between the tiles will always dip a little bit, it doesn’t mean it won’t hold. It’s still bonded to the sides of the tile. If it dips too much you MAY be able to put more grout over it, but it would not guarantee a hold. If you want the grout lines higher you’ll need to scrape out the old. Mopping it won’t affect the grout at all.
Hey! Thank so much for your previous reply/help. Ok, so I did end up getting all the grout done…. and I sealed it according to the directions on the sealant bottle. Now, as we walk across the floor, I hear cracking, I can see where the grout it coming away from the sides of some of the tiles, and where little chunks are coming out. From what I read on your site I didn’t mix it right, which is probably the problem. :/ What do I do now??
If I leave it like that will it cause any damage to the floor? Or is it more of a cosmetic thing? I do want to fix it either way, but does it matter sooner than later? Thanks! 
Hi Sarah,
If it is the grout then it doesn’t really matter when you fix it, it won’t compromise the floor. It will need to be removed and replaced with properly mixed grout.
We just finished tiling our bathroom floor and we’ve noticed some of the grout lines came out looking half-filled or otherwise not perfect… how can we touch up the grout lines so they look like we knew what we were doing?
Hi Linda,
Scrape or scratch the existing grout to rough it up or remove it and refill the needed grout lines.
Let me first say I wish you lived in the Denver area and I could have hired you to do my shower tile. We had our fiberglass shower pan removed and replaced with tile. We then hired a glass guy to install a frameless shower door. Three days later we noticed a gap in the grout between the tile on the top of the bumper and the vertical tile of the bumper facing the inside of the shower. I have a feeling this was a result of the weight of the frameless shower door as the hinge was drilled into the tile of the bumper. I read your post regarding removing grout instead of just adding grout over the existing grout but my question is what type of grout to use. The existing grout line is very thin. Will it matter if I use epoxy grout if the rest of the grout is sanded or unsanded grout?
Thank you
Hi Monique,
It won’t matter at all. Epoxy is fine. It may look a bit different, but it makes no difference from a stability standpoint.
Hi – It’s me again; I have another question. We have decided to enlarge a room that has a tiled floor. I am hoping to get my hands on the same tile, so that when we extend 2 of the walls of this room, we can continue with the same floor tile. My question is this: how do we prepare the current edges of the floor tile to accept the new tile? I hope I am making sense.
Hi Me Again,
Just remove the grout from between your existing tile and any that you remove. If you have full tiles along those edges you don’t need to do anything special to them.
We just recently built a new house and we have noticed several bubbles and cracks in the grout of the showers. The builder is sending someone out to fix it for the 2nd time. I’m just wondering what should I be making sure they do to insure it is fixed correctly?
Hi Amber,
That depends on why it’s doing that. The likely reason is lack of waterproofing. If that’s the case then nothing short of a full replacement will fix it permanently.
We had a guy do a tile bathroom and the grouting has some gaps / missing areas that we want filled in. The grouting was done a couple days ago and has not been sealed. Is it ok to add more grout or should it be removed. I know as a general rule you want to remove old grout but i was just wondering if that changes since the grout is so new and has not been sealed.
thank you.
Hi Steve,
Since it’s just a couple of days old you MAY be able to get away with just adding more grout. I can’t guarantee that, though. It would be better to remove the affected areas and regrout.