Anyone who reads my blog (and lets be honest – who doesn’t?) knows that I am a diehard SpectraLOCK junkie. For those who don’t know what that is, SpectraLOCK is an epoxy grout made by Laticrete. It is stain-proof, pet-proof, and bullet-proof! (Don’t try that, it’ll really piss off the wife…) If you don’t know any of that – you need to read my blog more! 
So just like everything I love – it changed.
Laticrete has recently come out with SpectraLOCK Pro Premium grout. A little birdie told me that this will replace the SpectraLOCK pro grout in the near future. Given that, I need to figure out how to use it – because it works differently than the stuff I’m used to. The difference in the workability may very well be due to the temperature, humidity, hangover flu bug, or any number of factors on the particular days I was working with it.
But it just doesn’t feel ‘normal’ to me – you know? It seems like it tightens up (gets stiff) and starts to roll out of the grout joints more quickly than the other stuff did. So, as with any installation product, if it begins to cure faster than you can use it you should just mix up smaller batches. And being the awesome DIY crowd you are – it’s probably a good idea for you to know how to do that anyway. So this is the best way I’ve found to do it.
A few basics first: SpectraLOCK is sold in different unit sizes. The base unit is called … wait for it … a FULL unit! Wait, where you goin’? This isn’t complicated like the metric system or anything, stick around. There is also the COMMERCIAL unit, which is what I buy (and you likely will not need) and it contains four full units. There is also the MINI unit – this is 1/4 of a full unit.
So: 1 commercial unit = 4 full units and 1 full unit = 4 mini units. Now, you can split up whatever you feel comfortable with, I split the full units into mini units. And this is what I’m about to show you. However, if you feel the need to split them into smaller units, or split the mini units into smaller units you can do that as well, you’ll just need to change the measurements.
When you break down the components into smaller units you need to do it by weight. I don’t see why splitting the liquids down by volume would be significantly different – but I was always told to break them down by weight. So do that. Really.
SpectraLOCK has three components, the part A and part B liquids and the part C powder. The part A is the yellow stuff in the foil bag, part B is the white stuff. Part C powder is in the carton. For this I’ll be splitting up one full unit so the bags and carton may look larger than what you have – mine’s bigger! 
You want to have a scale (scrape off the *ahem* ‘illegal substances’) and some one-quart ziploc baggies (the unused ones). For a full unit you’ll want to split each liquid into four baggies. Each liquid baggie weighs a different amount! So don’t just go puttin’ the same amount of everything in all the bags, it won’t work, you’ll have 1/2lb. of the white liquid left – then whaddya gonna do?
- Part A (foil bag) has 5 ounces of liquid in each baggie (4 baggies)
- Part B (white liquid) has 5.2 ounces in each baggie (4 baggies)
- Part C (powder) has 2.25 pounds in each baggie – or whatever you choose to dump it into (4 of ’em)
Just measure out all those components and zip them up. Once you’re done with that you’re ready to mix smaller batches in workable sizes. I just measure out the powder as I go along – I’m a rebel like that. 
AGAIN! If you have smaller units or want smaller batches you’ll have smaller measurements. You just need to weigh out what you have and split them into equal parts.
The photo above shows one full unit in the back, the two large bags and the carton, and one of the smaller units after I’ve measured them out, the two small baggies and the cup of powder. The amounts in the baggies and the cup is what you’ll be working with at one time.
To mix them just get yourself a nice clean container (scrub the beer coffee rings out of it) and add the two liquids together. Just roll up the baggie from the zipper side down until you have no room left to roll (like toothpaste) and snip off the corner of it with scissors. You can then squeeze all the liquid out of it with a minimum of mess.
Once you get those in there YOU NEED TO MIX THE LIQUID TOGETHER! Do that before adding the powder, or it’s gonna be one big mess you don’t wanna deal with – take my word on that. 
Once you get your liquids mixed together you can add the powder. Add about 75% of the powder first and mix it all up. Get a nice, smooth consistency, then you can add the rest of the powder. This helps get everything mixed evenly whereas if you dump it all in there and mix it you’ll spend more time getting an even mixture.
(Jesus, did I just type ‘whereas’??? I need a beer nap…)
Here's your grout - get to it! Quickly, damnit!
And that’s it. It’s all ready to go. When you grout, fill your grout lines and begin washing the tile in about 10-15 minutes. In another 40 minutes or so you can begin the second wash. I’ve noticed with the new stuff that you’ll only have about 35-45 minutes of what I consider ‘workable’ time. It’s not like it turns into a rock after 40 minutes, but it does become considerably more difficult to work with.
If you keep your batches small enough to install in that time frame it won’t be a problem – it’s when you go past the viable working time that it starts becoming difficult.
While I have voiced my displeasure with the new mix in a place or two, after I calmed down and sobered up thought about it I realized that SpectraLOCK is still the easiest epoxy grout on the market to work with. That, coupled with the rock solid (pun intended) color match you get from it, SpectraLOCK will still be my epoxy grout of choice.
I just need to quit being such a hard-headed bastard and learn to work with it a bit differently. One of the key factors in doing that is to keep the mixes in manageable batches. Just take your time, a little extra now will go a long way toward the long-term durability of your tile installation. And it WILL be stain-proof!
Here’s some basic information about the new stuff from Laticrete: Laticrete SpectraLOCK Pro Premium
And here’s a chart for coverage to see exactly how much you’ll need: Laticrete Grout Coverage Calculator
As always if you have any questions at all feel free to post them below. I’ll answer them once I sober up get home from work.
Roger,
I am looking for a clear/translucent grout to use in glass mosaics on a backsplash. What do I need & where can I buy it? I have seen on Lowe’s site the epoxy grout parts A & B, sold together-then the part C purchased separate which adds the color. Does it only add color or is it necessary for any other purpose? I am finally asking-to get clear grout-can I simply leave out the part C? Or is there another product I need to find & do they sell it here on earth/in the US? Thank you! T
Hi Tara,
There is no such product on the planet, sorry. The part C adds color as well as body to the grout. If you don’t use part C it’ll be like trying to grout with elmer’s glue. And once it cures it’ll be yellow. Your best bet is a bright white grout, that will maintain the translucence and ‘brightness’ of the glass.
hi Roger,
my problem is that the grout line are uneven 1/32 – 1/18, mostly 1/16.
also the shower wall bends just a little bit when really hard pushed. no waterproof membrane just green drywall and not much of a twobyfour behind that’s why it bends – no support behind drywall. i know i should redo my shower (tub surround actually) but budget is tight. i checked everything and surprisingly the wall inside is dry with no mold. my questions are: is spectralock flexible enough to handle that? is urethane more better here? what about texture? i know spectralock is sanded with very fine grit sand (finer than regular sanded cementious grout) but if applied to 1/16 grout line does it look good or unnatural? in summary i need flexible low maintenance grout with smooth finish… impossible? thanks.
Hi Mike,
Spectralock, like any epoxy, has absolutely no give at all. Normally your tile will crack before the grout does, seriously. Urethane would be a better solution in your case. It is also smooth whereas spectralock has a LITTLE bit of texture to it.
Hi Roger. Love your website, your email tips, and absolute snarkiness. Your info has been extremely useful for my husband and I who are finishing up a complete shower redo. I did the demolition (my specialty when he leaves town for a day or two on business), he did shower pan, hardibacker, niches, and RedGuard. I did all the actual tiling and am now getting ready to grout. My big question is how long do we need to wait after grouting before we can use the shower? Don’t want to mess up all of our hard work.
Hi Lisa,
If you grout today (go do that, stop procrastinating!
) you can shower in it tomorrow. Unless you use urethane grout, in that case you can use it in about six months. 
Woot woot! Grouting now!! Thanks for your help!! Will upload pix at some point.
Awesome! Upload a picture of your Corvette for me as well.
I used Spectra Lock on my bathroom about a year ago, the Ultra white and it turned a dirty yellow. The bathroom does not get a lot of sunlight.
I have tried every cleaner known to man including acid but nothing will touch it. I just replaced a few tiles and the difference is very obvious
Any ideas?
Hey Alex,
UV is the only thing I’m aware that may do that to spectralock. Call the laticrete customer service line and explain the situation – they can tell you what you need to do to resolve the problem. If you would please let me know what you find out, I’ve never run into that problem.
I don’t know how clear this is but here is a picture:
http://photopost.wdwinfo.com/data/500/medium/grout.JPG
The tile in the upper left was just replaced this evening but I think it makes the yellowing pretty clear
I can see the difference, I just don’t know what’s caused it. I would try the technical service line at laticrete.
Roger, What do you use to clean the epoxy grout off of your float?
Roger,
I have never used epoxy grout before and my question above is a sincere and valid question. How do you clean the epoxy off of your float?
Hey Scott,
I wasn’t ignoring or dismissing your question at all – I simply missed it. I have over 11,000 questions here I’ve answered (seriously), some of them slip by. Sorry about that.
Before the grout cures – right after you’re finished grouting – simply clean it off with water and a sponge. If you don’t get it all off and it cures on the float you may as well throw it away. It’s a permanent part of the float at that point.
Rodger,
A couple of years ago we re-grouted a commercial kitchen. We removed standard grout and replaced it with epoxy grout by Custom. We followed the directions given by the manufacturer and had so much trouble cleaning up the excess. It was our first time using epoxy grout (and our last). There is not enough beer in the world to make me want that particular experience again. We were advised to clean it with vinegar (did not work) or soapy water (did not work). It basically required massive amounts of elbow grease. I have since been advised that we chose the most difficult epoxy grout to work with. We primarily use Tru-Color Urethane grout on most of our residential sites. It is super easy to use and gives us a durable, color fast, stain and mildew resistant grout that does not need to be sealed. However, it is not an option on commercial floors. What should I expect in terms of difficulty when working with epoxy grout? I would like to know if I should bother using epoxy grout or keep passing on commercial jobs.
Hey Mike,
Yup, wrong epoxy. Custom’s epoxy is a BITCH! Your experience was definitely not unique. Laticrete makes an industrial epoxy called 2000 IG (I think) which works like the regular spectralock and cleans up easily. The industrial part simply indicates how well it stands up to commercial cleaners – not what type of equipment you’ll need to clean it up.
Check into that.
Roger,
Hopefully I’m posting this question in the right place. I had a bit of a rough time trying to figure it out. Please feel free to rap the knuckles if I botched it.
I have a question about porcelain tile and sealer. I’m seeing conflicting answers about whether or not to use a sealer with my tile.
I have 2 types of tile going into a shower. A through body porcelain tile from Emser called Strands, and a glazed porcelain tile called Perspectives. Most people seem to indicate that I do not need to seal porcelain tile. In fact, I see a lot of references that say to avoid doing so, as I might get a white haze that’s darn near impossible to remove. Yet, I have also seen people suggest that it should be sealed with an impregnator type sealant.
I’m using your favorite epoxy grout, so I’m not worried about sealing that. Just the porcelain in the shower.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance. Your site has been an incredible resource.
-Todd F.
Hey Todd,
Although you can seal porcelain it’s not really necessary. You can, it won’t hurt anything. The white haze they speak of is from not buffing the sealer off of the tile before the sealer cures. You can always spray more sealer over it to reactivate it and buff it right off. If you’re using porcelain and spectralock I really wouldn’t bother with the sealer at all.
Hi Roger,
Thanks again for all of your helpful tips on the shower install using the Schluter Systems, niche construction, thinset questions regarding modified vs. unmodified, and decision to go with Laticrete’s Spectralock Pro Premium grout. You truly are a life saver! I just finished the project last weekend and the bathroom tile job looks great ( I’ll send pictures later). Having finished work on the Schluter construct and prep for tiling at the beginning of summer, Memorial Day weekend, and now with the end fastly approaching, my last project on yet another working holiday weekend is to try and remove the remnants of solidified Pro Premium grout on my acrylic tub. I should’ve been more diligent when grouting, in removing the still wet grout on the tub surfaces, before it hardened. It’s been a week since I’ve installed the grout and I’ve tried scraping it with a plastic putty knife but it looks like I’ll have to put in a lot more work to complete this. Do you have any product that you’ve used that can act a solvent to weaken the bond of the epoxy grout and accelerate removal? Thanks for your help in advance on any light you can shed on this subject.
Cheers and have a Happy Labor Day Weekend!
– Steve
Hey Steve,
Try a heat gun and a razor scraper. The epoxy will soften a little bit. Never affects the normal installation but it does make it a bit easier to scrape off.
Hello Mr. Elf!
I’m Steve’s wife (from the previous letter). I just wanted to make sure you got the part about the epoxy grout being stuck (all over) an acrylic tub – can we use a heat gun and metal scraper on an acrylic tub?
Thanks for your help – we have really appreciate all the info on your site!
veronica
Hi Veronica,
Nope, Steve did not exactly elaborate on HOW MUCH grout he happened to get all over the tub, I assumed it was just a spot or two which dropped onto it as he was grouting. You know how he is…
Try it with a plastic scraper first. You can use the metal blade, but you must be very, very careful as you scrape it that you aren’t taking off the acrylic coating of the tub.
HEY STEVE, YOUR WIFE BUSTED YOU. JUST A HEADS UP…
Hi Roger,
Yep, I’ve been busted! Not only should I’ve been more diligent in cleaning up the epoxy grout when applying, but should’ve come clean about how much was spilled. Thank you for the suggestion on the plastic scraper. As soon as I’m done with cleaning the tub, I’ll be doing the dishes for the rest of my life.
I’ll let you know how it turns out…
Thanks,
Steve
Roger have you ever tried Mapei’s Keracolor mixed with Grout Once? Thanks Susan
Hi Susan,
Nope. I don’t use grout admixes – grout boost, laticrete’s, none of them. The only advice I can really give you is to use the admix from the same company that makes the grout. That would give you the best possible end result.
I’m back…
The floor and baseboard is done along with one end wall (faucet side) of the shower enclosure (except for a small corner at the top). I must say I found it difficult to work quickly on the walls because the grout wanted to pull out and fall out easily, so I was working hard to pack it in there and get it to stay put. I pushed the time limit as I worked up to the top of the wall, but it seems to be solid. I may try working with a 1/4 unit next to give myself a little more breathing room.
My question of the day is: if I’m not happy with a small section of grout do I have any recourse? i.e. can I dig it out a little (or a lot) and fill in with my next batch? Have you ever had to do that kind of repair work? I may not need to reallly worry about a spot that looks a little rough, but thought I’d get your thoughts on it just the same.
Thanks again.
Hi Jay,
You can dig out about half the depth of the grout and regrout it if you need to. Epoxy will bond just fine.
Roger, still working on my bathroom project (having 4 year-old triplet boys doesn’t leave a lot of free time!). I’m finally ready to grout.
Here are my questions for today. Is it better to keep the grout out of edges (at walls, tubs and cabinets) and corners or go ahead and let grout fill it in a bot and caulk over it to seal it off? If it is best not to fill it is it okay if a little gets in there or do I need to keep it really clean?
Also, how clean to the grout lines need to be? It seems there will always be a small amount of dust in there no matter how hard I try (particularly since I had to do a fair bit of scraping). Brushing seems to create more dust and vacuuming only picks up so much, so I’m assuming a small amount of residue would be okay. What do you advise?
Thanks as always.
Jay
Hey Jay,
Good lord! Triplet boys??? And you can still type a coherent sentence? You’re a better man than I.
It is best to keep the grout out of it. The easiest way is to just keep as much out as you can while you grout then just scrape the grout out of the corners before it cures, then silicone it. There will always be a bit of residue in there – it’s not a problem.
Hey Roger, is it me, or are some of the Snarky remark and reply’s gone from several of the pages on your website? I asked a couple questions and when I went back to find them the whole list of questions and replys seemed to be gone from where I’d posted them. I tried a couple web browsers to see if it was my problem but to no avail.
Did you clean up / reorganize the site or something?
Hey Joshua,
I constantly clean up and reorganize – no one ever sees it, though. I never delete comments or questions, ever. I have searched everything and don’t have anything from you so I don’t know if you used a different name, email, claimed to be a Nigerian prince wanting my banking information so you can send me untold millions or what. I haven’t deleted anything, though.
Have you tried to go back to the previous pages of comments on the posts you left them on? Once there are 50 snarky remarks on a page it splits into a different page of comments. I do that so my pages aren’t three miles long. Right above where you comment, above my notice, there is a small ‘previous comments’ link. It will take you back to earlier comments. I’ve left every one I’ve received for the past three years.
Have you tried this:
http://bostik-us.com/our-brands/trucolor-pre-mixed-grout
or this:
http://bostik-us.com/our-brands/quartzlock-2%E2%84%A2
much easier than epoxy to work with, and has similar qualities.
Hi Lake,
I have fixed your links so they go where I believe you intended them to go.
I have used both. ‘Easier’ depends on your criteria for easy. The cure time for both products is extreme – up to seven days to follow the recommendations in some instances. There have also been isolated problems which are currently being dealt with in the first run of Quartzlock 2. As far as cleanup – to me it’s a wash (pun intended) between those or spectralock. It’s different, but both require extreme attention to detail.
The part that prevents me from using these more is the amount of time for a full cure in wet areas (showers). Telling my clients they need to wait a week to use their shower is simply not an option for my business. They both do work well, though, and are viable alternatives to epoxy grout.
Roger – my tile contractor did a poor job washing the spectralock residue off the tiles when grouting. it’s now been over a week and there is still a shiny film on the tiles around the grout lines. i’ve tried to wash it with cascade but so far no luck. maybe I’m not applying enough elbow grease?
so am I stuck with this shiny residue? if so, can I mix up a batch of spectralock without the Part C powder and wipe it over the tiles to at least have a consistent sheen on them? i’d rather them be shiny all over than have an inconsistent sheen.
thanks..
joel
Hi Joel,
There are several ways to remove that. The easiest is to use spectralock part C powder, mix it with water to form a very runny ‘paste’ and scrub it with a white scrub pad. That should take it off. If it doesn’t get some Aquamix sealer and coating remover, that normally takes it off. If neither of those work come on back and I’ll start moving up the ladder of potency for you.
Any difference between the Pro version and the mini’s sold at Lowes? -Thx
If it’s the regular (older – non-premium) then the working time will be longer – which is a good thing. If it is the premium then nothing that anyone who doesn’t use it VERY regularly would notice. It’s essentially the same thing.
Sorry Roger, couldn’t find my original thread. I’m installing a 4’x5′ porcelain tile (slate look) entry. I removed the backerboard to put down the thinset. I have dry fit everything and cut the tiles. (Lowes was most helpful with that part) I have the Spectralock and am ready to start. So my questions are:
1. I have one wall portion about 2′ and the door section along which I should use silicone, correct?
2. I purchased the metal edge strips to protect the outside edges of the tile from chipping, but could not locate any information on the proper installation. The clerk said to just nail them to the backerboard, but that doesn’t seem right.
3. I have one small problem with the layout. On the doorjamb side I have a extra 1/2 inch space. Any suggestions on how to handle this problem?
Thanks for all your help.
Hi Janet,
1. Yes, silicone against the door jamb. It allows for the inherent movement.
2. Your thinset is combed onto the floor, the strip laid into it, then thinset combed over the top of it, then tile. The thinset locks it in – no nails or fasteners.
3. If you can move the entire installation 1/2″ toward the door that would be best, don’t know what you are butting it against on the open sides. You can also get a piece of oak or other hardwood or a piece of 1/4 round to cover the space between the tile and door jamb, then base board or 1/4 round for the walls.
#2. Do you butt the tile right up to the metal edge strip?
#3. There is carpet next to the tile on the open sides, which is one reason for the metal edge strips. I tore out the carpet by the door where I’m laying the tile. I saw some tile pieces that look almost like quarter round, or would the wood be better. Or another thought, could I use those quarter round tiles against the metal strip to edge the entire project. This would take care of my 1/2′ problem next to the door and also decrease the size of my grout lines which are larger than I wanted. Or would that look really dumb. I had planned to use bulnose in place of the baseboard where the wall meets the tile floor.
Thanks for all your help. I would have made so many mistakes. I searched for a good step by step tile book for the totally clueless that would answer more than just the basics, but no luck. I have really enjoyed your Tile Tips e-book. You should write one on installing floor tile for the totally clueless.
2. Yes, there is a small metal lip sticking out from the ‘U’ of the metal. When you butt the tile against it there will actually be a small <1/16" gap which gets grouted.
3. You can use the 1/4 round around the perimeter of the installation provided they do not stick up higher than the face of the field tile when installed. If they do they may create problems with walking over them. It won't look funny unless there are different elevations, that looks funny. You can also cut (or have cut) two or three inch strips of that, or a contrasting, tile and run a frame around the perimeter. Center the main tile so you have a consistent space around the edges and fill it in with a frame strip.
That book is on the list. I may call it floor tile for the totally clueless.
Roger,
I’m trying to figure out how to deal with the acrylic shower base/tile interface. In your manual,
it says (and has a nice picture): Do not run your moisture barrier behind the tub or shower base!
You need the barrier to be lapped over the flange of the base so water running down the barrier behind the tile will run into the base and down into the drain.
But if we silicone the bottom side of the tile to the acrylic base, how does any water flowing down the front of the moisture barrier ever get out? Isn’t the water going to be trapped at the bottom, between the back of the tile and the front of the moisture barrier?
Thanks for the great site! Frank
Hey Frank,
With weep holes. Read through this: Weep holes in tub tile installations. You are correct! Glad someone’s thinking about the water process behind tile in a shower wall.
Hello:
I wish I had come across your website earlier. I just had a bathroom redone and I believe they put green board on the walls around the tub and then tile over it. I don’t think any moisture barrier was installed. This is a combo tub/shower. Now I’m not sure what to do. This job was done because of water damage to the floor from the last bad tile job (by someone else) because of a leaking toilet. Do you have any suggestions? Should I just have it redone right away? I have a new tub put in–I’m assuming that taking out the tiles will not damage the new tub? I know this has nothing to do with your topic, but I would appreciate getting an opinion. Thank you. Su Fang
Hi Su Fang,
If you think you can get them to pay for it then yes, have it redone. Greenboard is not an approved substrate for use in a wet area.
If you think that’s going to be a problem, and since it’s all finished, you may as well leave it until you’re ready to change the tile again (and you will be
) It may last that long, it may not. I can’t guarantee a failure (normally), all I can do is advise on methods guaranteed not to fail. Your shower may last ten months or ten years, I simply don’t know. Just keep a close eye on any wet drywall outside the shower, funny smells or any swelling or cracking grout. That is indicative of water getting into, and destroying, your substrate. Push on the lower row of tiles every now and then, if they move more than normal it’s time to rebuild.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your quick and clear response. I don’t think I can get them to pay for a re-do. I guess I will have to wait and watch. I appreciate your advice on what to watch for, and I’ll know how it should be done next time.
Su Fang
Roger,
Thanks for the reply. Yes it is still light. Do you know of a company that makes anything you can darken and/or put a darker color on top of Spectra epoxy?
Kevin
Hey Kevin,
Not sure why your spectralock is doing that – I have never had it come out a different color than the sample. Ever. You may actually want to give Laticrete a call. Their tech support may be able to give you a solution.
I know that grout colorant (the epoxy paint type, not the dye type) will change the color, I just honestly don’t know whether it would adhere well to the epoxy or not. Tech support would be able to tell you what to do. They’re friendly – really.
Give ’em a call tomorrow.
Roger,
What is your opinion on Spectralock vs StarQuartz or StarGlass Grout. I hear that the epoxy can be hard to work with?
Gino
Hi Gino,
Any product at all can be difficult to work with if used incorrectly. The only really difficult thing about epoxy is the time factor and the fact that it takes much consideration in the cleaning aspect. Which to use depends on the material being grouted. Starquartz and starglass are very, very good grouts. If it is a glass installation one of those is likely the better choice. Epoxy grout has NO compensation for movement, and can become brittle. The expansion properties of glass lead to a LOT of movement. A non-epoxy grout is a better choice for installations such as that. Same goes for any type of tile with high thermal expansion properties.
With a material that either grout can be used, it’s simply a matter of preference and budget. I prefer the epoxy, others don’t.
Hi Roger,
I’ve just installed smoke grey two mixes/two applications with 7 more to go and it’s been around 12 hrs and the grout is still very light compared to what it should be. How long does it take before it changes and/or gets darker?
Thanks in advance.
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
In around 24 hours it should be the color it’ll stay. I noticed you posted this about 18 hours ago – is it still light?
Hi Roger. I will be grouting my bathroom floor and shower (walls & ceiling) with Spectralock. Any tips for using this on walls and ceilings?
Thanks!
Hey Matt,
Just take your time with it. Pay attention to the time limits and be sure to clean everything you can off the tile before it’s fully cured.
Hi Roger,
I’m working in my second bathroom remodel. Since you were so kind to help with the first one (it turned out great), I wanted to trouble you for our expertise on installing polised marble. It’s called greecian white and looks a lot like white carrara. Do I seal the marble before grouting? If so, do I use an impregnating sealer? If not, or if so, can you recommend the brand please. Thanks again for your help!
Obviously “your” expertise and polished marble. Experiencing nuero slippage, sorry.
Hi Sherry,
If you are not using a white grout then yes, seal it first with an impregnating sealer. I like miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator. If you are using any color that is darker than the surface of the marble then seal first, if you’re using white no need to seal it first.
I can’t seem to find a clear answer on whether or not SpectraLock is suitable for polished marble.
I’ve read several times (including Laticrete’s site) that it may or may not be, and that I should mix up $50 of the stuff and test it on a tile. This seems silly when the answer is probably out there somewhere already.
You’ve said a few times that epoxy grouts are fine for polished stone, but you didn’t mention it here, and I’m specifically wondering about SpectraLock, since it has a pile of disclaimers regarding polished surfaces.
Do you have experience with this?
Thanks!
Jase
Hey Jase,
It depends on the shade and type of stone. Marble is one of the more absorbent stones, which means it will suck in liquids. The problem with epoxy grouts and natural stone is that the stone may suck the liquid out of the grout before it fully cures. This both weakens the grout and may discolor the stone. I have not had a problem with the strength of spectralock in any natural stone, but I have had it leech the liquid out of the grout and discolor the stone. This leaves what is called a ‘picture frame’ effect. It tends to turn the stone a shade or two darker around the edges. If it is a white or lighter colored marble (carerra, crema marfil, etc.) I would do a test first to ensure this won’t happen.
You can get a unit of the spectralock and split a small portion off as I’ve described above to do the test. If it passes you still have the remaining grout to use, if it fails 50 bucks is cheaper than a bathroom full of marble, eh?
You can always use the remaining for something else.
If your concern was scratching the marble (I tend to overthink some things
) then no, I have never had a problem with that. Grout manufacturers will ALWAYS tell you to test first. They need to cover their asses. I’ve used it a lot on polished marble as well as glass and it hasn’t scratched anything I’ve used it on.
Roger-
We’re using Carrara so I did a test with some offcuts set in thinset on a scrap of backerboard with 1/8″ grout lines like I set the tile. It definately shows a darker color around the edges (I can send a pic if you want it). But I don’t think it’s bad, it’s still grey and since the carrara is already white/grey it seems OK to me (and more importantly my wife didn’t complain when I pointed it out to her). This is just an aesthetic thing, it’s still OK to set this way, right?
Grant
Yup, as long as it doesn’t bother your wife.
Roger,
Is there any problem with the adhesion of Spectra-lock grout in the joint if I use a sealer on the travetine tile prior to grouting?
Thanks,
Lloyd
Hey Lloyd,
No problem at all. Try to keep it out of the joints, but it isn’t a big problem if you get some in there.