There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:
- Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded)
- Sanded
- Epoxy
Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?
Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout
Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16″. Unsanded grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.
Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall, because it is “stickier” than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for which you are using it is correct.
Sanded Grout
Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8″ and wider. Although the specifications state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8″, you really should use sanded for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage. No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.
Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it cures. That’s why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile installations.
If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine, you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy which would be a better choice anyway.
Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and stain resistant.
Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.
To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The cold air will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well, frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. This essentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you don’t have to rush through it.
Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble that’s important. Be sure to test first anyway!
Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I ever use is SpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxy grout (at least any I’ve ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please don’t take that to mean the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink (Don’t do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.
The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.
Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout, chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.
I am getting ready to tile a small bathroom floor using Daltile Octagon-and-Dot mosaic tiles that come on a sheet. Since I don’t own a grout float, I went out to pick one up and saw there are three types.
Since I’m not using epoxy, I know I won’t need the epoxy one – but the other two were foam-backed and rubber-backed. Which one do I need for mosaic tile sheets with sanded grout?
thanks,
Kathy B
Hi Kathy,
The epoxy one.
Seriously. I use an epoxy float for everything, it works very well for sanded grout as well.
i have diagai running 3/4 in subfloor. It has some play between the floor joists. i was wondering if there was an epoxy grout that would have just a little bit of flexability. so i can keep my floors even and not have to put down 1/4 in ply board.
Hey Nate,
Epoxy grout has zero flexibility. It is brittle, that means it will chip and/or break if there is excess movement.
Hi,
We are about to install 6 by 20 wood-look ceramic tile throughout the house.
We are thinking of using a 1/16 grout line so the floor will look more like wood. Should we use unsanded grout? Does all grout need to be sealed?
Thank you
Hi CJ,
You can as long the tile allows it. 1/8″ would be better, and easier, to use. You can use either sanded or unsanded. Yes, you should probably seal it.
Hi! I’ve been reading up on how to clean grout and was fortunate enough to find your cleaning advice. I cleaned some grout and let it dry, and then applied sealer. My grout has faded over the years, probably in part because of all the puppy and kitty accidents we’ve cleaned with a mixture of bleach and water. I searched your site for a way to restain the grout but didn’t get any results. What do you recommend? Thanks for providing this site for my use. It’s nice to know that someone out there in internet land knows what he’s talking about. I can’t tell you how many different home grown varieties of grout cleaning I’ve experimented with in the last week.
Hi Karen,
There are two different types of grout colorant, the topical, paint-on type like aquamix which is much like an epoxy paint, and the grout stain, which is a pain and normally only works when changing really light grout to a darker color.
Look for the aquamix grout colorant, it’s good stuff.
Hi Roger,
I bought 4×4 honed unfilled travertine tiles for my back splash.(1) Are the tiles supposed to be filled in the back of them and if so should all of them be done and dried prior to adhering them to the wall? (2) Can Laticrete spectra-lock be used for this? (3) Should only one coat of sealer be put on after filling and gluing. (4) What sealer do you recommend (5) Does the chalky dust have to be wiped off of the tile as the first step before everything else?
I am sorry for all of the questions but my brother in law is installing them and he has never worked with natural stone before.
Thank you,
Grace
Hi Grace,
1. It’s not necessary, but ALWAYS the best method to fill the backs. You can fill them as you set them, no need to do so ahead of time.
2. Yes,
3. One would be fine.
4. Miracle Sealants 511 porous plus for that travertine.
5. Yes, soak them in a bucket of water and wipe them off.
Roger,
After soaking and wiping down the tiles how long should they dry before filling and applying them to the wall?
Thank you for your help,
Grace
An hour or so should be fine.
Hi Roger,
The back of the 4×4 travertine was filled with Laticrete Spectralock epoxy grout.
I picked up ready to use Type 1 Mastic by Tec Invision. The directions say not to use with tiles that have epoxy on the back of them.
I called Laticrete tech dept. He told me that he would use a latex modified thinset mastic. Unfortunately,the dealer for Laticrete’s 254 Platinum thinset is too far from me.
What do you recommend?
Grace
Hi Grace,
I have several concerns with your short inquiry there:
Why was the back of the travertine filled with spectralock??? Are you aware that neither type 1 or type 2 mastic should be used with natural stone? Whether they have epoxy on the back or not.
By your description of what the Laticrete tec told you I think you are mixing up, or lumping together, thinset and mastic. They are two completely different things. There is no such thing as a ‘latex modified thinset mastic’. I’m assuming he simply said latex modified thinset – correct? If so you don’t necessarily need 254. You can use nearly any of their modified thinset for that application provided the epoxy is not coating the back of the stone and is simply filling the open areas that were there. Just go get a modified thinset and you’ll be fine.
For reference there are many fragile natural stones that have a netting on the back, or are simply coated on the back, with epoxy resin to hold them together during shipment and setting, thinsets can not be used with those (mastics either, for that matter).
The back of the travertine was filled with laticrete spectralock to fill the holes. I used that because when I asked if I could 2 posts ago you said yes.
No, I was not aware that you could not use Tec Invision Type 1 mastic on natural stone because it says on the front that it can be used with stone and marble.
Yes, you are right. I wrote what the tech said. He did say latex modified thinset. Sorry, my mistake.
Some of the tiles have a lot of holes on the back so they do have a very thin coat of the laticrete spectralock on the back. Will that cause a problem with a latex modified thinset?
Thank you for your concern and advice. I appreciate it.
Grace
i
Okay. You can use the modified thinset to install all your tiles on the wall. There shouldn’t be a problem with any of them.
Hi Roger,
We’re almost ready to tile three bathroom floors, two of which have zero threshold showers. Shower pans are traditional preslope, membrane, mud pans total depth about 2-1/8″ before tile.
We’re using 1×1″ mesh-mounted stone mosaic with 1/8″ preset grout joints for the floors, and grouting with urethane grout (QuartzLock2) in two, and epoxy (Mapei Opticolor) in the third.
I read somewhere that in wet locations, tile shd be thinset with no mesh backing–meaning, to remove the tile from the mesh and set it individually, presumably for better bond? Have you ever heard of this? That complicates things a lot, any my tile is likely to have a hissy. Still, I’m taking every precaution to ensure a long-lived installation.
So thanks for weighing in. In this construction, is it prudent to remove the 1×1 mosaic from the backing and hand set them in the shower (wet) areas?
–Mark
Hey Mark,
Your shower floors are just fine. It’s swimming pools, jacuzzis and spas that you want to use face-mounted mosaic or remove the backing with.
Hi Roger,
I have heard it is possible to tile over an old (yet solid/not leaking at all) shower floor. I have a small 45″ x 32″ shower floor (1″ x1″ blue 1950’s blue tile!) that needs a re-do. Since it is an odd shape, the only other option I think I would have would be custom work which is far to expensive for this rental property at this time. So that leaves me with the tile-over option.
1) I had read that the best thin set to use was either Mapei’s Kerabond/Keralastic or Tec’s Super Flex. Do you agree or have another suggestion for thin set?
2)Also, I have watched several DIY videos on how to do this project and am left asking do I need to “scuff/sand the existing tile first AND use an adhesive before I start with the thin set?
3)Should I remove the exisiting caulk around the shower floor before I start and re-caulk after the tile is done or just leave the caulk in place then tile?
4)I plan on using a dark brown ceramic tile(2 inch) sheet. Each sheet is 1′ x 2′ of 2” tiles and held together with what looks like some kind of glue dot. I had read somewhere to use the paper back tile sheets not the rubber dot ones. Any thoughts on that?
5) Since I will be using the epoxy grout and my grout will be lighter than my tile, do I need to seal the tile first? Any other suggestions on tiling over an existing tile shower floor (I have the drain extention covered)? Thanks for any advise you can offer,
Beth
Hi Beth,
1. Any thinset approved for use over tile will be fine. Those are two of them, there are several others. I prefer laticrete 255.
2. You do need to scarify the surface of the existing tile, but there is no reason for any type of ‘adhesive’, I have no idea what you may mean. The thinset is all that’s used at that point.
3. Yes, remove the existing caulk.
4. It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever.
5. Yes, seal first, then grout.
Hi Roger,
My husband and I are about to install 2×4 inch honey onyx tiles for our kitchen backsplash. What color grout and what type of grout will best maintain the brilliance and shine of the tile? I’m worried that our grout will change the beauty of the tile.
Thanks a bunch!
Hi Susan,
The brightest white you can find (Mapei) will keep as much of the translucence of the tile as you can. If you don’t like the white in the grout lines then find something like a ‘straw’ color which matches the tile. It will diminish the color a bit, but the grout lines won’t grid out your installation.
Thank you, Roger! I’ll likely go with the straw color since the kitchen colors are neutral.
Roger,
I’ve followed you for a couple of years and done 2 tile jobs using your suggestions. Now I have a question before I grout my kitchen backsplash.
The salesman recommended Bostik Never Seal Grout, it’s going on honed travertine tile, any thoughts?
Thanks and have a beer for me
Hey Bill,
I don’t like the pre-mixed grouts, that is a personal choice, though. The Bostik is good stuff. I would seal the travertine first though.
Thanks for the beer.
How long after I seal with, DuPont Stone Sealer, do I wait to grout”
Thanks,
Cold Beer time maybe two
You can do it in about three hours. Depends on how fast you chug beer, I guess.
Thanks for the help, the backsplash is grouted and it looks great
Again thanks for your help
Okay, thank you!
We just installed a new bathroom floor. 1ft by 2ft 1/2 inch thick porcelain tiles how deep does the grout have to be? The grout line is 1/4 inch.
Hi Patty,
I don’t understand the question. If your tile is 1/2″ thick your grout line would have to be 1/2 deep. The entire grout line needs to be full.
Hi Roger,
I had porcelain tile professionally installed on my kitchen floor about ten years ago. The grout has been a disappointment from the beginning, chunks of it have come out and it is very stained. The grout was never consistent, some areas of the floor the grout was too low, other area the grout was too high. I would like to regrout the tiles. The present grout is sanded, would it be possible for me to use an epoxy grout over it? Due to the size of the floor (it covers two rooms), I do not wish to remove all the present grout if I don’t have to. Would you be able to advise me, please?
Hi Donna,
If you want to regrout you need to remove the existing grout. There is no way around it. Grout bonds to the sides of the tile. If there is already grout in there doing that no type of grout will be able to bond and won’t last.
Hey there Floor Elf,
Thank you so much for the wealth of installation you are providing here on your site. It
!
I have a question about a product called Tile Doctor Shield Grout Admix 2: Unsanded Formula, that when added to grout is supposed to permanently seal the grout and prevent ever needing to seal it again. The salesguy at the tile store recommended it for sealing the unsanded grout I will be applying to grout lines ranging from 1/16″ to 1/8″ between mesh-backed 1″ mosaic glass tiles. (We are using the unsanded grout to prevent scratching the face of the tiles that sanded grout could cause.) The instructions are to mix the 44 oz. bottle of Admix with a 10 lb. bag of grout instead of mixing the grout with water.
My question is have you used Grout Admix before and would you recommend it or would it be better to mix the grout with water and then use a standard sealant?
Thank you!
Ah geez, “Thank you so much for the wealth of installation…”, should read information.
Hi Denise,
I have used it, I don’t like it. That, however, is purely a personal choice. It does what it says it will do and there are a LOT of guys that use those admix products and like them very much. It is better to have the sealant actually be part of the grout rather than a separate product. If don’t properly they both work the same, purely a matter of choice.
The fact that you typed installation rather than information tells me you’re putting a LOT of thought into your installation.
Good Mr. Elf,
I am tiling the floor of my bathrrom with a dark textured surface porcelain tile, the walls with a white ceramic tile clear to the ceiling, and the shower ceiling with the samw white. I know to silicone my changes in plane first then grout, but in what order do I grout the various surfaces ? Also, I like ths idea of epoxy grout, but how do you clean up the tile after installing the grout? Doesn’t sound like water cleanup is likely, and I’m a messy worker, more of a floor ogre…. One more thing, I’m using a 3/8″ aluminum trim at the bottom of the walls like a tiny baseboard. Do I grout, silicone, or nothing, between the floor and the aluminum, and between the aluminum and the face of the wall tile? Thx and a double round of chocolate milk for the Elf!
Hi Joel,
I prefer to grout from the top down, so ceiling first, then walls then floor. But it really makes no difference. Epoxy grout is cleaned up just like regular grout, water. Really, I do it all the time. I don’t know what type of aluminum trim you’re using, if it’s schluter you would grout between the trim and face of the wall tile, if not I have no idea what you’re working with. Regardless you should silicone between the trim and floor tile.
Awesome, thanks Roger!
Roger,
I am installing400 sqft of honed and polished travertine in various sizes from 8×16 to 1×1 with a 2mm (3/32) grout joint on walls and floors. There is a diagonal mural and two niches on the walls. Stone is a bone color and the grout color will be the same color as the stone. I have read a lot of material on both products and watched the videos and both products seem to be products of choice. Dupont stone enhancer pro will be used to seal the stone prior to grouting. Would you recommend the Spectralock or the FusionPro for my installation? Any advice on cleanup?
Thanks
Gene
Hi Gene,
I would use the spectralock because I know how durable it is and that it will last long-term. The fusion pro would likely be just fine as well, I just don’t use it that much and have no long-term results to base it on. With spectralock sealing prior will help tremendously and paying attention to the time limits for the product is your best solution for easy cleaning.
Roger,
I would like for the grout joints to blend in with the tile color. The 8×16 field tiles surround a 40×48 picture framed panel of 4x4s that are on a diagonal. The 4x4s are a darker color travertine than the wall tiles which are bone. I have the same concern about the niches which have 1x1s in the same darker color.
What go you think about using different grout colors on the same wall?
I would use a bone colored grout on the field tiles and a darker color grout between the darker tiles.
Thanks
Gene
Hey Gene,
I do that quite a bit actually. It really looks good when done correctly. It’s easier to do the dark grout first. You can easily remove lighter grout from the dark, the other way around – not so much.
Shower looks great by the way! Well done.
I am in process of having bathroom remodeled. I was at a tile store and the salesperson said we should use Fusion Pro grout. What is you opinion on this. My tile guy says he will use whatever grout I want him to. The seams will be about 1/16 except on the floor which I think is 1/8th. My tile guy says he mostly uses polyblend sanded or unsanded grout.
Hey Lillian,
The fusion pro is good stuff. I’ve used it twice and it has finished and matched extremely well. Long-term durability I have no idea about – it’s a brand new product. It’s only been readily available for about 6 months or so now.
Thanks so much. We would be using it on shower walls and floor and also bathroom floor. Any hints I can give my tile guy as he has never used it, but is willing.
Just tell him to make sure and measure out the amount of water per the directions. If he mixes it like his regular grout it’s going to flash over very quickly and be difficult to work with.
I thought you didn’t have to mix it. Just to be sure surface was wet. I have been reading about it online. I am in no way knowledgeable about grout. I just ordered it from Home Depot online. It is expensive, but I thought that if it was better than regular grout, then it was worth it. I was mainly concerned about the grout getting mold and this does not have to be sealed.
Oops, sorry Lillian, just got you confused with a different question someone asked. With the fusion pro it is important to only work in smaller areas that can be installed and cleaned up within fifteen minutes or so – ten is better. Don’t mix water into it.
Sorry about that.
Roger, You have been so helpful. One more question and then I will quit (I think) You mentioned in another thread that you only use 100% acrylic in showers. How does Fusion Pro compare. Am I headed in the wrong direction with this. I can return the fusion to Home Depot if need be. I don’t want to have to worry about sealing and resealing the grout every year or however often it is recommended. I have never sealed grout before.
Lillian
I don’t know what you mean by acrylic. The only common acrylic product is caulk. When I don’t use 100% silicone I use acrylic caulk. Regular grout, on the other hand, is cement-based, not acrylic. The fusion pro is a very good grout, you’ll be very happy with it. And it doesn’t require sealing.
Oh sorry. It was me this time.
I meant Silicone. You said you only used 100% silicone in showers. Well, wish my tile guy luck. I hope he doen’t end up cursing me. Thanks again for all you input.
Lillian
Well my tile guy used the Fusion Pro and didn’t have problem. He said it went on nicely. It looks like just any other grout so I sure hope it is worth the extra money I spent for it.
Roger,
Thank you for the wealth of knowledge on your site. You have helped me tremendously. I have a simple question. In finishing a bathroom remodel, I have installed 6 inch porcelain tile in the bottom of my shower over Noble membrane with a linear drain on a sloped mud bed. Anyway, I am using laticrete products. Should I use epoxy grout in the floor or sanded grout? I plan on using sanded grout on the shower walls (unless you recommend otherwise) and sanded silicone grout, Latisil, at all plane changes (corner and floor/wall joint).
Thanks,
Tim
Hey Tim,
I would just use the sanded on the floor so it’s consistent throughout the shower. Latasil is 100% silicone, it isn’t sanded (doesn’t need to be). They also have the sanded acrylic caulk which will work fine, but the silicone is a better option.
Roger,
Have you ever used polyurethane caulk? I have used it to seal the joint between the tub and tile with excellent results. Just wondering why everyone only recommends silicone.
Gene
Hey Gene,
Yes, and it works very well. I don’t mention it much because in many parts of the country it is nearly impossible to find. Works just as well, if not better, than silicone though.
Roger, we’re doing 1×1 marble mosaic on the floors of three bathrooms, and creamic on the walls. I want a non-staining, consistent color grout and was thinking of using one of the 2 or 3-part resin (epoxy) grouts on the market. Color-wise, Mapei Opticolor fits best, so we started pricing. The mosaic consumes a lot of grout and the price is sky high—giving me reason to re-think. This is not a kitchen application so protection from cooking grease, wine, etc. isn’t the issue–and anyway, the marble would probably stain before the grout. What I want is a grout that will not change color over time (will not darken), won’t deteriorate or mildew, etc. in shower & on floor, won’t scratch or picture frame—will offer long-term performance.
Is there another grout to consider that will offer that performance in this application? I’ve been reading about the new class of urethane grouts, and while they take a long time to cure, that’s not an issue for us (new construction and lots to do before bathrooms get put into service). Have you had any experience or conversation about Bostik QuartzLock, Bostik TruColor, TEC Power Grout, or any other we shd be considering?
Thanks again for the feedback. –Mark
Hey Mark,
Trucolor and quartzlock are both very good grouts. Either one will do what you’re looking for without any problem. It, however, isn’t cheap either, although it is cheaper than epoxy. Power grout still has some issues it’s working out last I heard.
Thank you, Roger.
Quick glance, they appear to be priced almost the same–have to check with dist tomorrow to be sure. So if QuartzLock2 prices out the same, or very close to Mapei Opticolor — for light colors used in light & dark stones, which direction would you lean?
–Mark
Probably the Quartzlock. I like the way it works better than the opticolor. Purely a personal choice, though.
If you have any more questions can you PLEASE post them as a reply to this rather than a new comment? Thanks.
We installed a walk n tile shower with laticrete waterproofing and tiled the floor with 1/4″ flat mosaic stone tile sheets and grouted it with Spectralock stain free grout. The grout around each rock is thick. How long until it cures for shower use? The instructions only say 10 days for steam or submerged use and says 28 days for full cure. It’s been about 12 hours now and is still soft like putty. Also, we had to buy 4 large containers of the stuff – which is crazy expensive. Did we use too much? Is it not meant for large grout lines around rock shower floors? All the specs just show floor tile.
Hi Sierra,
Stop poking your grout! You should be able to use the shower in 48-72 hours when there’s that much grout in there. You did not use too much, you used as much as you needed to fill random spaces between the stone. Stone mosaics take a shitload (technical term) of grout, sanded or epoxy. Spectralock works fine for it, you’ll just need to wait a bit.
We ripped out a small bathroom floor and are installing ceramic tile flooring that looks like wood. It is a small space so we are doing a prefab kit corner shower stall. My question is can the shower pan be installed over the ceramic. The kit is a fiberglass style showerbase with a styrofoam support base under it that requires mortar. I am afraid that butting the ceramic tiles up to the shower base is going to result in some imperfect cuts due to the circular shape of the base. In addition the grout color for the floor is dark brown and aesthetically it might look bad.
I do understand that in the future if we need to remove the shower stall it will destroy that section of ceramic flooring. I would buy extra to allow for that situation. What do you think? Also what is the best product to use for caulk in shower? Many thanks….
Hi Kathy,
As long as you understand the possible future ramifications then yes, it’s just fine to do that. Make sure the tile under it is bonded well, don’t just set them under there to shim it up. (I know you won’t, but the ONE time I don’t point that out someone’s gonna do it and blame it on ‘that damn elf’…)
100% silicone in my showers – always.
Thank you! And I do understand we will be doing it as those showers are generally crap and will look gross in a few years
Then I can jack hammer the floor and re model again…..
Hi Roger,
We’re preparing to lay 1″ square marble mosaic floors, then grout with Mapei (probably Kerapoxy) — this brand b/c they hit the desired colors better than Laticrete.
(1) After setting, shd we pre-seal before grouting? And if so, any special precautions to take? Want to be sure no picture framing, but also don’t want to screw up adhesion of the grout.
(2) For marble, have you had luck with any specific make/type of sealer?
(3) Feedback on Mapei epoxy grout appreciated if you’ve used it before.
Thanks, Mark
Correction—one of the 1×1 mosaics is onyx (two others are marble). All are mounted on mesh with 1/8″ joints. –Mark
Hey Mark,
1. If your grout matches the tile then you don’t need to seal first, if it is contrasting you should. Picture framing will dissipate if it happens, it just may take a while. Don’t use a lot of water when cleaning it up.
2. Miracle sealants 511
3. It’s a good grout. Follow the mixing instructions on the back and use the least amount of water you can when cleaning it up.
Hi Roger
I just finished installing a ceramic backsplash in the kitchen.
I used 2″ tiles on 12 x 12 sheets. The space between the tiles
is greater than 1/16″ but under 1/8″ (pretty much 3/32″). In a few areas I have managed to leave spaces a little larger than 1/8″.
I understand the ‘rule’ to be, use unsanded grout if the spaces are 1/8″ or less. That was my plan until I read different advice on the internet that suggested to use sanded, even at 1/8″ & less, because it won’t shrink, it comes out more uniform and looks better, is less sticky and easier to clean up. What do you feel the best choice is for this job?
Thanks Rob
Hey Rob,
I always use sanded grout in all my tile unless it is the little 4″ lugged tile which self-spaces. Grout lines in those, however, are less than 1/16″. What you’ve read is correct, go with the sanded.
Hi Roger,
Two questions
1) Would you go with the laticrete spectra lock for 1″ hex tiles with 3/32″ grout lines? They meet your grout line criteria but I was curious as to whether the high amount of grout that has to be applied and cleaned is an issue with a tile this small and grout as fast setting as the spectra lock.
2) Do you have the same advice for 3″ x 6″ lugged subway tile that self spaces about a 1/16″ line as for the 4″ square self spacers?
Thanks,
John
Hey John,
Yes on both. Compared to most epoxies (every other one I can think of) spectralock actually takes quite a bit longer to set up – it has a longer working time. You can also simply mix smaller batches. Lugged tiles are a bit more difficult with it, but it still works fine. Just have to take a little more time. The ease of cleaning and durability of the grout more than makes up for it, though.
Hi Roger,
What do you think of Trucolor grout?
On another topic, can you recommend a tile saw? I have a MK 880 but I need a larger saw that can rip 24″ tiles. I am considering the MK 212-4, the Imer 250VA/1000 and the Bosch TC10. The MK is a little heavy but looks well built. The Imer is light but it gets mixed reviews. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Your site has limited content which is good because I can find relevant information without reading a lot of nonsense from people that like to hear themselves talk. The other big tile forum has become impossible to use.
Gene
Hey Gene,
I’ve only used it once (we don’t have much bostik stuff around here) but it seemed to be a good grout. It finished very well. The consistency of it is a little strange compared to what I’m used to (laticrete, c-cure, mapei) so likely has a bit of a learning curve, but it worked very well.
I am not really a big mk fan. They are great saws, but sometimes I think it’d be easier to carry a prius onto a jobsite than carry one of those damn things. And they don’t call ’em the red screamers for nothin’! Those smaller ones are LOUD.
Haven’t played with the bosch, and only know one guy who owns one. He’s fairly apathetic about it. It works well enough, just isn’t singing praises. Your mileage may vary – he’s a picky bastard like me. And his last saw was the DeWalt – he liked it better. The Imer is a great saw. My brother owns one and I’ve played with it a lot. But for what I do it’s not very practical.
With any tile saw it’s always best to go for your main installation purposes. My daily saw is a DeWalt. It does rip 24’s, has the plunge capability and remains fairly well adjusted with little regular maintenance. It isn’t for balls-out assembly running all day, but for the types of installations I do (residential remodels) it’s a great medium. Doesn’t break my back, fairly quick setup, minimal maintenance, doesn’t spray water all over like a fire hose and tucks away in the van fairly well. When possible (about 50%-60%) I’m usually working with my Sigma, but when I need the saw it’s quick, easy and clean.
There are a LOT of mixed reviews on that one too, as with nearly any saw. The best way to decipher those is to take a good look at what it’s being used for. Whether the person giving the review is actually using it realistically. If I were to review a slab saw and tell you it sucks, it wouldn’t be worth crap as a reliable review. Of course it would suck for me – I don’t need a huge rail saw for what I do. On the other hand if a guy tiling shopping malls and airports were to tell you the dewalt sucks – yeah, I’m sure it would after about 1 or 2.
Unless you’re setting it up in a semi-permanent space (not a portable saw) I would probably go with the Bosch or the DeWalt. They’ll both do what you need. I know for a fact the DeWalt is a good saw. The bosch may be as well, but I’ve never owned one and I’m a DeWalt whore. My buddy who owns the Bosch is too – he’s just in denial.
Hi Roger,
I stumbled on your site and am glad I did. I’m about to embark on a remodel of my bathroom and have a question regarding grouting my new tile. The recommended spacing is 1/16″. The tile itself is designed to look like stacked stone. My question is what is the best way to apply the grout since a standard grout float is smooth, but my tile is multilevel? I want to be sure I get it watertight since it is in the shower/tub.
Here’s a link if it helps explain what I’m referring to:
http://www.porcelanosa-usa.com/home/products/tile/wall.aspx/d=15138/title=Jersey_Mix
I’m using the 8×12″
Thanx!
Hi Tom,
That tile is not supposed to be grouted. Also – grout has absolutely nothing to do with waterproofing your shower or making anything in it watertight. That needs to be done with a properly waterproofed substrate.
On an unrelated note: I hope you’ve thought through the use of a stacked stone type tile inside a shower. It has ALL sorts of nooks and crannies which are a cleaning nightmare in any type of application such as that.
Roger,
These are actually porcelain tiles made to look like stacked stone, so they are just 8×12″ rectangles. When I asked the question, I did not have a sample nearby and thought that the ridges were much deeper than they actually are. While they are “3 dimensional,” the highest ridge is less than 1/4″ taller than the lowest, and they have smooth transitions between the “layers,” not sharp edges.
Regarding waterproofing and grout, it was actually a silly question the way I worded it having read your site for a mind numbing number of hours before I asked it. According to the manufacturer, there should be a 1/16 grout line between the 8×12″ tiles. I am asking the best way to float the grout due to the uneven levels on the face of the tile.
Lastly, your point about using them in a shower is well taken. It was the first thing I mentioned to my wife. She and the designer at the high-end tile store are convinced that it is not an issue since they are porcelain and not stone, no real gaps between layers. Maybe you will have better luck convincing her. As for me, I won’t be cleaning them. “I just drives the car Miss Daisy.”
Okay. You can grout them with a grout bag, similar to a frosting bag for cakes, and it will take forever. And yes, that’s the only way to do it.
If looking at the tile itself, you attempting to talk her out of it, and the fact that any standing water will begin to grow stuff (meaning that the shower needs to be thoroughly dried after each use to prevent standing water on a horizontal ledge – even if only 1/4″) will not convince her perhaps she can enlist the help of the ‘designer’ at the high-end tile store to come over weekly and give her a hand in cleaning each 1/4″ ledge in every row of that 8×12 tile? With a soft brush. Then thoroughly dry it.
The type of tile (porcelain), although better than a porous, natural stone of the same type, makes little difference with my point. You will have horizontal ledges all the way up your shower wall. These can not be adequately cleaned by simply wiping them down with a towel, they must have every vertical/horizontal corner of every one of those reliefs completely cleaned or they will grow stuff.
It is my experience that designers are absolutely fantastic at doing what they do – make stuff look fabulous! And it will look great in a magazine. In the real world, however, this stuff actually gets water on it. There are billions of mold spores in every square foot of the air we breathe. Guess what happens then? Completely up to her. I just drive the car too.
How do I get unsanded grout with grout boost off of unglazed thru body porcelin tile. We tried using the strongest mix of an acidic based tile cleaner but it isn’t working. Any helpful information you can give will be appreciated.
Also, the grout changed color when applied to the grout lines in the tile, however, the leftover grout in the pail dried the color it is suppose to be. What happened? It doesn’t make sense to us.
Hi Lee,
You look on the bottle of grout boost and punch the phone number into your phone and ask them. I have absolutely no idea, I don’t use the stuff. Can’t stand it – that’s one reason why.
One of the other reasons is that it may screw with the color consistency of grout. My guess is that the grout boost is what happened. Short of efflorescence (which may be your issue – you did not say if it looks ‘whiter’ than it should) I’ve rarely seen any type of significant change in a grout color. Definitely none that had incorrect color in the floor and the correct color in the bucket.
Good day,
I installed 12mm thick glossy porcelain tiles in my shower using 1/8″ spacers.I went and purchased Mapei Keracolor unsanded grout because I was told it was the stuff to use for showers/walls and specially for glazed porcelain.
I am SO confused now that I read so many threads about Sanded Vs Unsanded. I was under the impression that unsanded was more water tight but obviously that’s not the case if it tends to shrink if the gap is 1/8″ or larger.
Should I be returning this to swap it out for Sanded? also, are there trout sealers that can make grout lines more glossy? I’m looking for a nice even finish.
Thank you so much for your time!
Hi Manny,
Grout has absolutely nothing to do with waterproofing at all. Your shower should be waterproof before tile is installed. I would use sanded grout on that, but unsanded grout is used for grout lines up to 1/8″. Up to you, but I think sanded would be better.
Thank you!
I exchanged it for sanded grout.
I thought grout was to prevent water from going behind the tiles once its sealed.
Now for sealers. Can you use a glossy stone sealer on grout? If so, have you ever used it and what were the results?
Thank you for you input!
Yes, you can use glossy stone sealer on grout. If it is a topical sealer it will lay a layer of glossy over the grout. If it is an impregnating sealer it will not change the look of the grout.