There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:
- Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded)
- Sanded
- Epoxy
Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?
Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout
Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16″. Unsanded grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.
Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall, because it is “stickier” than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for which you are using it is correct.
Sanded Grout
Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8″ and wider. Although the specifications state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8″, you really should use sanded for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage. No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.
Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it cures. That’s why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile installations.
If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine, you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy which would be a better choice anyway.
Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and stain resistant.
Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.
To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The cold air will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well, frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. This essentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you don’t have to rush through it.
Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble that’s important. Be sure to test first anyway!
Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I ever use is SpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxy grout (at least any I’ve ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please don’t take that to mean the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink (Don’t do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.
The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.
Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout, chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.
Hello again, Roger,
What is the optimum amount of time to wait after setting large format porcelain tiles, to grout them? Is there a preferred amount of time to wait for the fortified thinset to cure? I read somewhere that b/c porcelain is so impervious, that grouting too early can affect the proper setting up of the thinset.
Thanks for weighing in, Mark
Hey Mark,
It’ll tell you on the bag. Normally it’s 24 hours. Hydration does not require air to cure, so porcelain or not the portland is actually cured.
Hello, any other superior products you would suggest to re-grout a steam room besides epoxy? Thanks
Hi Denise,
It is my opinion that epoxy is your best option. Urethane grouts are fairly new and, although a few may be allowed in a steam shower, I don’t know how they would fare in the long-term.
Roger,
I’ve enjoyed looking around your site. The good people of Colorado are blessed to count you in their number. Here’s my problem:
My social director has decided that our downstairs half bath should be tiled in pennies, yes pennies. By her account, it’s going to be the absolute coolest 25 sq.ft. east of the Mississippi. By my reckoning it’s going to be somewhere between the second coolest 25 sq.ft. in my house and her laudable goal, probably qualifying as the coolest 25 sq.ft. in the megalopolis we all know as Winnsboro, SC. I’m working on the subfloor now, and plan on gluing said copper directly to backer board with Liquid Nails or equivalent, filling in between with black grout, then coating the whole spectacle with several layers of poly. I’ve calculated about 7,200 pennies and four cases of beer to complete this job.
Please provide your recommendation for grout, as well as any other advise or ridicule you care to offer.
David
Hey David,
Tell social directors to stick with the social thing.
I would use epoxy setting material for that. In fact, if you can talk them into the cost of Spectralock, you can comb the epoxy grout on the floor, place your ’tile’, then clean off the surface. Setting and grout all in one. It would be the most durable installation for what you’re doing. It also would not require the poly over the top, although if you still wanted to that would be fine.
There are 2.32 square meters in 25 square feet. There are 10,000 square centimeters in each square meter. One penny = one square centimeter. You need 23,220 pennies. I think your beer estimate may be a little shy as well.
Sorry David, your amount of pennies was more accurate than mine. I still think you underestimate the needed beer, though…
That’s a great idea, and since my cost is not her issue I should be able to swing it.
I would be using poly to hopefully protect the pennies from tarnish…
I have been told that epoxy grout is difficult to get off and that it chips tiles as you do please advise
Hi Kate,
Not too sure what you would like me to advise you on? If the epoxy is properly installed it is more difficult to install than regular grout. If it is not cleaned off the surface of the tile properly as it is installed then it will cure on the surface. If it cures on the surface and you attempt to remove it after it is cured then yes, it may chip your tile. If the epoxy is properly installed and cleaned up there should be no epoxy on the surface of the tile which would need to be chipped off. If there is then the epoxy is being improperly installed.
Properly installed epoxy does not lead to this problem. Only improper installation would lead to this scenario.
So I’m assuming, from your short sentence, that you have epoxy on the face of some tile which you are concerned with removing – is that accurate? If so you can get some epoxy remover (normally sold in the paint section) and use several different applications on the epoxy. It essentially ‘melts’ away the epoxy, which can then be wiped away. It may, however, be detrimental to your tile, depending on the type of tile or stone you have. Test it first.
Hi Roger,
I recommended Spectralock to my contractor, for installation of our 18x18x1/2 natural travertine kitchen floor. He discussed the product with the flooring distributor (who does carry it) as he is very concerned about working it into a 1/16″ grout joint within the given curetime. We are installing about 250 sqft; subfloor is 2x10s w/ 3/4 diagonal sheathing, iron-ply over top & tile back over top of that.
The flooring rep, recommended looking into the following two products
1) Bostik QuartzLock-2 Urethane Grout
2) Fusion Pro Single Component Grout
Can you give me some advice for which selection to make. Additionally, my contractor is pushing for 1/8″ grout lines, feeling that the 1/16″ is not practical for getting sufficient grout between the tiles. Input on both the final grout selection and grout line widths would be so greatly appreciated! Thanks for the great article by the way!
Best, Kirsten
Hi Kirsten,
Grout line size is dictated by the consistency of the tile and has absolutely nothing to do with ‘getting grout into them’ or any of the sort. MINIMUM recommended grout line size is 3/16″, but I regularly use 1/8″ on floors. Grout simply fills the space – that’s it. I regularly use spectralock in 1/16″ grout lines in showers, it’s never a problem. I always do at least 1/8″ grout lines on floors (with very rare exceptions). I would do 1/8″ with spectralock.
Quartzlock is better than Fusion pro, spectralock is better than both.
Big thanks for the quick response! Take care.
Sorry, I forgot to follow up on the cure time and necessary speed of working 250 sqft with a single batch of epoxy in one shot. Do you see a problem with this sqft using Spectralok in one batch (even with freezing half), or can you (would you) use two batches, breaking the space into two areas, etc.? I understand from your article that you have a decent window of time, but I just wanted to address my contractor’s concerns, particularly if we go to using 1/8 or even 3/16 grout lines, and the amount of product going down, etc.
Thanks again.
I wouldn’t have a problem with it, but if your contractor thinks it will be an issue just split the components into equal parts and mix up smaller batches. It’s easier and better than freezing it after mixing it all up.
Hi roger. I just finished regrouting 1800 square feet of tile, as well as three bathrooms. One of the bathrooms is a floor and walls of a shower. I used spectra lock pro. Now for my question. How long
do I need to wait before I can take a shower?
Hi Sandra,
You can take a shower in the morning.
Dear Roger,
My husband installed sicis glass mosaic tiles (icewater) with Mapei keracolor U in Avalanche (unsanded grout with epoxy). It supposedly does not need sealers in a dry setting but in a wet setting (like the shower and small bath where we have it) a sealant is an insurance policy. The grouting process took a long time. So we want to seal it. I have read about some sealers that stain. Because our tiles our transparent we don’t want stains. Can you recommend a sealant for our needs?
THANKS.
Loo
Hi Loo,
Miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator. I just wrote a couple posts about sealers – you can find one here: Tile and Stone Sealers explained
Hi Roger,
Can you suggest a sealant-caulk material that’s interior floor wear-rated, comes in selection of colors and can be used where two different flooring abuts eachother? We’re being really careful to have zero height differences between tile:tile and wood:tile at entries into rooms and want to fill those butts with something appropriate. Looked at terrazzo strips and Schluter Dilex strips–not sure if that’s the best solution or if there’s something that can be tooled into the joint for a cleaner, less obtrusive finish. Laticrete makes a siliconized acrylic caulk in the (matching) colors needed, but they claim it’s not wear rated for any traffic applications.
Thanks, Mark
Hey Mark,
You need a sealant that conforms to ASTM C–920, you will not find an acrylic-based caulk (to my knowledge) which meets that. Certain silicones do, I know Laticrete Latasil does, that’s what I use, and I believe Tec’s colored silicone does as well. The Latasil is their 100% Silicone.
Unfortunately, Latasil is available only in limited colors, and there’s no exact match to the grout color that’s been selected. Do you use a generic (contrasting) color, or get as close as possible (complementing–similar) color?
I get as close as possible. Latasil has about 20 colors, I’m sure you can find something to match fairly closely.
Hi Roger! When purchasing tile, the tile guy recommended Laticrete Spectralock epoxy– as a first time installer I got cold feet working with epoxy and went, instead with the latricret permacolor grout (which he said was still good, just not as good as epoxy). With my measurements, he said I would need one 25 lb bag and recommended mixing it all at once and grouting the shower and the bathroom floor all at the same time. My husband is concerned with the time I will have to grout. Is there anything I can do to slow the drying in the bucket time on the grout? Or is it a matter of just getting it done? Hubby said I should just do a partial bag, but the guy at the tile store was very, very descriptive in saying I needed to mix the whole bag to prevent two different slightly colored grouts. I think I can get it done— the bathroom isn’t huge– bath tub enclosure (standard 5 ft tub) and the floor is 5 x 8.
Hi Beth,
Just dump all the powdered grout into a bucket and mix it up real well (dry) to evenly distribute the color. Then mix up as much or as little grout as you feel you can handle at a time. There is no reason to mix it all up at once if you mix all the powder so it’s evenly distributed.
Hi roger. I just got back from Lowes and FYI they are no longer carrying the products you recommend. They have changed over to Mapei products, but not the kerypoxy grout, but rather grout sealant that must be reapplied every year. They are also carrying the Mapei sanded grout with a polymer added. Hence, I will be using the company that you gave out the other day and order the products I need in the morning.
Yeah, some of them are switching over. Don’t know if it’s going to be with all of them eventually or not. It’s unfortunate in my opinion. You’ll be happier with the other stuff anyway.
What type of grout would you use to fill a 1′ gap between my kitchen tile and wall. I removed the base boards and now I have a huge gap. Im buying baseboards that will cover the gap but I was told I should fill it first. Any help wouls be amazing!
Hey Chris,
You should NOT fill it first. You need open space around the perimeter to compensate for movement. Granted, you don’t need an inch
, but if your base will cover it just leave it.
Ok so No grout. I guess Im just worried the tiles are going to shift over time or something. Or that mold or spiders will hide down there.
Nah, that won’t happen. That’s only a one inch space, you have a 3 1/2″ space between every wall in your house.
I have a large tile floor (4 rooms) with 1/4 in grout lines that are always getting dirty and chipped. We have cleaned them, re-sealed them and the dirt returns. If we remove the old grout how much of it should be removed? The entire depth? Then is SpectraLOCK from Laticretem, the correct choice to re-grout?
Thank You
Hey Paul,
First you must figure out why they are getting chipped. If it’s only due to the large size of the grout lines, and not movement, then regrouting will be fine. The current grout must be removed to a minimum of 2/3 the depth of the tile. Spectralock is, in my opinion, the best option for durability as well as cleaning ability.
Just purchased your tile tips. Thanks for the Tips and your Troop help! I’m in the process of a complete master bath remodel. Planning on using a Wedi shower system (Solid closed cell foam board with reinforced cement surface) Have you ever used this product. Also reading your grout info, I’m considering using a urethane based grout product called Star QuartzLock. Have you ever used this product? It’s expensive $99/9lb pal premixed, but has characteristics of epoxy grout without the timing restraints. Any suggestions or concerns you may have about these products?
Hi Dale,
Yes, I’ve used both the wedi system and quartzlock. With the wedi system just don’t try to take any shortcuts (many people do) and it will work just as it states. It’s a great product. The only caveats I can give you with the quartzlock is only grout small areas at a time before cleaning them off and be SURE to wait the specified amount of time before water exposure. You can find that on the bucket. It’s change a couple of times so I’m not sure what it is currently, but you need to wait for it to fully cure.
Thanks for the feedback. From what I’ve read on the urethane grout a 7 day cure on the shower is minimum, so I’ll give it a couple weeks, I’m in no rush and only want to do this once, the right way.
One last question Roger, what’s your preference for corners or plane changes grout or a product like latasil, I’m truly a novice at this but want the outcome of a professional.
I always prefer silicone. Latasil is a very good product, if you have that available I would use it.
Hello Roger,
What is the best way to install hardwood on a concrete basement floor? I overheard a lady saying not to use hardwood on a basement floor (use laminate instead) ??
Thanks!!
Susan
Hi Susan,
With wood flooring glue. Laminate will actually be worse over concrete due to moisture instability.
Ok, I’m sure you’re getting tired of my questions. Meet me at the bar and I’ll buy you a beer, or two
When I look for Spectralock grout in my area (Ohio) I can only find it in 2 lb containers. Will take more than a couple of those for my 200+ sf. Can I order it online somewhere? Also, Lowes does not recommend it for floors? But, I like you better than them so I’ll go with your guidance. Thanks AGAIN.
I don’t know what a 2lb unit is. Is it a mini-unit? Check the coverage charts from laticrete – they are extremely accurate. Spectralock is the best grout for nearly any floor – I have no idea why they would think it isn’t any good. You can get it all over online, normally cheaper as well. Try stonetooling.com
Just had a designer in to give us some ideas on a bathroom remodel. We would like a tile shower, both walls and floor, but he indicated we should go with a plastic insert for the floor. We’ve used the SpectraLock epoxy on other projects and it has worked well. Is SpectraLock the best grout for a shower, walls and floor, that is?
Thanks
Hey Ken,
In my opinion it is, yes.
Hello Roger,
I have 12×12 slate in one room and 12×12 marble in another, both are 1/8″ spacing with non sanded grout. The tile was new when I bought the house and looked great! Of coarse, after a few years the grout lines are cracking and several tiles are loose. Also, the house is elevated and the floor is made of 2×10 joist, 1×6 planking and 3/4″ plywood (yes, the tile is directly on the plywood). the floor is solid but obviously it does flex. Any suggestions on how to repair so it will last???? Is there a flexable mortar and grout that would work? I have other rooms with 18×18, 1/4″ joints and sanded grout which appear to be holding up just fine.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Buddy
Hi Bubby,
Urethane grout is slightly flexible, but it may not be enough to compensate for your floor. The fact that it’s directly to the plywood is the problem. If not installed precisely (which, if it’s cracking, is not) it will not last long-term. You can try the urethane grout but you’ll eventually need to replace the floor.
Hi Roger,
I am getting ready to tile my shower (thanks to your GREAT e-book).
I am using polished porcelain tiles with a 1/16 grout-line with a decorative glass wave inlay. Do you have any experience grouting decorative glass wave tile. I am looking for any tips on dealing with the unevenness of the tile.
GO BRONCOS!!
Hey Scott,
I’ve installed some of it. It’s kind of a pain to grout but looks very good when you’re done. The best thing to do is just take your time with it and be careful not to over-clean it. Wipe gently and wring out your sponge very well.
I am writing up my schedule/plan and a couple of things came to mind.
Spectralock and travertine – I plan on sealing/enhancing the travertine a few times before it goes down. Should I worry about the spectralock staining the travertine?
I am also putting down a heating mat embedded in SLC(84 LatiLevel) 1/4 to 3/8 + DitraXL(because of deflection)5/8 + 3/8 travertine= 1.375
thats a lot of transition going from berber carpet to tile. Any tips on how you would deal with that.
Hi Scott,
No, the spectralock won’t stain the travertine unless you’re using black grout on white travertine. If you seal it well, even that won’t be an issue.
Transition: You can put a trampoline in front of the bathroom door?
You can get what are called carpet ramps, which are simply particle board pieces shaved down to create a ramp. Put it down in front of the doorway and install the tack strip on top of it. It lightly ramps the carpet up to whatever height you need (buy the ramp with the height you need). You can also install a metal ramp edge on the tile side to bring it down a bit so you don’t have a huge ramp on your carpet. The height of your carpet, even berber, should be a good 1/2″ anyway, so you’re only making up a maximum of 7/8″, probably a bit less, not 1 3/8″.
how long can i leave the epoxy grout in the freezer…long enough to put up first batch…wait..wash..wait and do final washing? Roughly 1 hr or so.
An hour shouldn’t be a problem at all.
Roger, I just purchased the SpectraLOCK Stainproof grout (parts A,B, and C) only to find out, as I read the instructions, that it is sanded and not recomended for less that 1/8″ joints. I am regrouting a seam in my polished granite slab counter top. It is only 30″ long! Any suggestions?
Hi Barbara,
Yes, use the spectralock. It is sanded but I honestly have NEVER seen anything it would scratch, that includes polished onyx, which is a hell of a lot softer than granite. Not saying it definitely won’t, but I’ve never seen it scratch anything. It isn’t normal ‘sand’ as you think of it. It is a colored, beaded aggregate. I also use 1/16″ grout lines in my showers and use spectralock on them all the time. You should be fine.
I just purchased a new home that has mostly tile floors and all tile showers. The contractor used a sanded grout that changes color if a drop of water touches it. The grout lines are a quarter inch. Would it be a wise decision to remove all of sanded grout and replace the grout with an epoxy grout? Is there a sanded epoxy grout product that would work?
Please help. So far this current grout has not even been cleaned.
Hi Sandra,
Any cement-based grout will do that, it’s porous. Epoxy won’t do that. Any epoxy will work for those grout lines. The fact that is does that, though, does not harm or hurt anything, it’s completely normal.
I just installed procleain tiles on my kitchen and dining room area. I am confused about grouting. This is a DIY project. What is the best grout that I should use? I am looking for something that is stain resistant, acid resisant, chemically enhanced with polymers? Thanks.
Hi Coleen,
As I’ve stated above (you did read the above, yeah?) the type of grout is dictated by the size of the grout lines. If you want epoxy, that’s a completely different type of grout. It has everything you’re looking for. Not sure why you’re concerned with it being ‘chemically enhanced with polymers’? Every cementious grout currently being manufactured has polymers in it.
I’m making a shower with tile, and I’d like to know what would be the best grout for the floor and walls.
Hi Jorge,
The best brand? I prefer laticrete. If you mean sanded or unsanded – it depends on the grout line size, as stated in the article above. If you mean cementious, epoxy or urethane – any of them will work, it depends on what traits you’re looking for in the completed installation.
I had a GC use sanded grout on my shower walls and floor and I have a mixture of porcelain and glass tiles. It of course scratched the hell out of the glass tiles. So, I was wondering is there any type of solution that I can use to clean up the glass tiles any, make them look a little better?
Hi Art,
A good rubbing compound may take the scratches out of it. You buff them up just like a paint job on a show car. That works most of the time.
Hey Roger,
I have a mixture of porcelain and glass mosaic tiles I recently installed in my shower/tub surround. Should I use unsanded grout (as manufacturer recommends) on the glass mosaic and sanded around the porcelain? My glass mosaic grout lines are 1/8″ and my porcelain 12×12 lines are 3/16″, with some larger cause I’m a noob. Is it common practice to use different types of grout depending on the tiles used?
TIA,
Wes
Hi Wes,
I would use sanded for all of it. I very rarely run into any glass that sanded grout will actually scratch. Test it on an extra piece, of course, but it should be fine. You’ll need to use sanded on the 3/16″ anyway.
I kinda had a feeling you were going to recommend that. Thanks Roger.
Love your style of writing in your posts–Your humor kills me!
Hi Roger,
I have a rather pressing problem with the spectra lock lacticrete epoxy grout my contractor applied over the white pebbles in my shower floor. It may be lack of experience but when I came home & before it dried I noticed there were numerous black cement like debris mixed inside the silver shadow epoxy grout. As I understand that once epoxy is cured it would be impossible to get these black spots put, my husband & I gouged the debris out carefully with a knife …spent over 3 hr.bent over the shower floor cleaning it out!
The big question now is can epoxy, which seems like glue putty be able to be filled into these gouged out holes, dips and valleys?
Help? Most appreciate your best advice!
Hey Ellen,
Yes, you can fill all that in with more epoxy. No problems with that.