There are three basic types of grout available for your tile installation. They are:
- Non-Sanded (also known as Unsanded)
- Sanded
- Epoxy
Choosing the correct grout for your particular installation will not only complete the job correctly, it will also cut down on maintenance. Properly installed and sealed grout will last for the life of your tile. So which to use and when?
Non-Sanded (or Unsanded) Grout
Unsanded grout is made specifically for grout lines smaller than 1/8 inch wide. This is a general rule. I use unsanded grout only in tile with grout lines smaller than 1/16″. Unsanded grout (all grout to different degrees) will shrink as it cures. The reason for only using it in smaller grout lines is the wider the grout lines, the more grout must be used to fill them. The more grout you have, the more it will shrink. If you try to fill grout lines that are too large the grout will shrink enough to pull away from the sides of the tile.
Unsanded grout is easier to work with, especially on vertical surfaces such as a shower wall, because it is “stickier” than the sanded variety. You can spread it onto the wall and it will stick there while you force it into the grout lines. It is also much easier on the hands than sanded. Although it is easier to work with, you need to make sure that the application for which you are using it is correct.
Sanded Grout
Sanded Grout is used for any size grout lines 1/8″ and wider. Although the specifications state unsanded grout be used in grout lines that are exactly 1/8″, you really should use sanded for them. It will ensure proper adhesion to your tile and guard against too much shrinkage. No, not Seinfeld shrinkage, grout shrinkage.
Sanded grout has fine sand added to it. This prevents the grout from shrinking too much as it cures. That’s why it is used for larger grout lines and should be used for the majority of tile installations.
If you have a polished stone such as granite, marble, limestone, and some polished travertine, you should be careful about using sanded grout. While sanded may be the correct choice for the size of grout lines, it may not be the best choice. Depending upon the polish of the stone the sand in the grout may actually scratch it. If you decide to use sanded make sure you test it in an inconspicuous area first to ensure it will not scratch your finish. Or use epoxy which would be a better choice anyway.
Epoxy Grout
Epoxy grout is the top of the line and best choice for any tile application. It can be substituted for sanded or unsanded grout. It is more sturdy than both as well as being waterproof and stain resistant.
Epoxy is a two or three part chemical consisting of the base and the activator. With some brands the color is an additional part that must be added. Once the parts are mixed a chemical reaction begins. From that point, depending on the brand of epoxy, you have only a limited amount of time to get everything grouted before the grout becomes stiff enough to be unworkable. When it reaches that point, if you do not have everything grouted you are SOL.
To help slow the cure time you can mix your epoxy then put half of it in the freezer. The cold air will slow the chemical reaction and lengthen the working time. You can then work with the other half until it is all used. Clean it up, wipe everything down, then grab the second half out of the freezer and finish up. When you first pull it out of the freezer it will be, well, frozen. It thaws quickly, though, so should be workable within a few minutes. This essentially doubles the working time of your grout and ensures you don’t have to rush through it.
Since most epoxy grouts do not contain sand (or at least not in the classic sense of sand) it will normally not scratch your tile. If you have highly polished granite or marble that’s important. Be sure to test first anyway!
Different brands of epoxy have different working times as well as some being more difficult to work with than others. The brand with which I have had the most luck and the only brand I ever use is SpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It has a longer working time than any other epoxy grout (at least any I’ve ever used) and is virtually stain proof. Please don’t take that to mean the you can grout a jacuzzi with it, fill it with cherry kool-aid, and expect it not to be pink (Don’t do that). It just means that for all intents and purposes it will not stain without concerted effort. In my opinion it is the best on the market.
The only drawback of epoxy grout would be the price. It is fairly expensive. When weighed against the upside, however, it is well worth it. Low maintenance demands and high durability of epoxy grout make it well worth the money.
Picking the correct grout for your application is a key part of a proper tile installation. If you choose incorrectly you could end up with a multitude of problems and headaches. Grout, chosen and installed correctly, will complete your tile installation and push it from a good tile job to a great one. Do not underestimate the power of the grout.
the chamfered edge is only slight fyi
So I am getting close to having all my tile installed and I know you get the question all the time but I’m having real difficulties choosing with grout to use. I am using 3×6 filled and honed travertine wall tiles that have a chamfered edge. I installed using 1/16 grout lines but with the chamfered edge I am having a hard time. I have always used sanded in the past except for one small glass project that I used unsanded. What I remember from the unsanded was shrinkage and I would really hate to have to grout this bathroom twice. if you tell me I should I will do it. Because of the chamfered edge can U use sanded? Being that is is honed tile I don’t think scratching is as much of an issue. But will I be able to get enough grout in the lines and does the chamfered edge really play into that? Also since I will be sealing the tile twice (once before I grout, and then again after) will the sealer inhibit the grout grabbing at all? It’s a little hard to avoid getting sealer in the lines completely since it is smaller tile and in running bond pattern. (1st time doing the running bond pattern and phew is that a lot of work)
Hi John,
Use sanded. I use sanded all the time in 1/16″ grout lines. Most all of my shower walls have that size grout line. Provided you are not overly-zealous with the sealer (don’t mop it on there
) it won’t inhibit the grout bond at all.
Sanded worked just fine btw. With the beveled edge it looks great. Any tricks to getting hard dried haze off? I have a few spots that dried too much
A microfiber towel and 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hot water should take it off for you.
Hi.
We have a small bathroom that we remodeled (by we I mean my handy husband… I painted the walls and ceiling) any hoo… he laid down tiles 12″x24″ with a 3/16″ grout line. my question is we (he) are waiting to a few days to grout but we had already purchased a pre-mixed grout called TEC power grout RTU. I have been trying to find information before we (he) actually uses it and I am having trouble finding any reviews on it. Is this a product you are familiar with? if so can I have your opinion on it?
thanks
Hi Heidi,
Tec power grout rtu is (I believe) a modified acrylic grout. I have used it and it is a very good product. Just be sure to follow the cleaning directions and allow 7 day full cure time before water exposure.
I have a problem with the showers leaking in the rooms of my hotel and is causing all sorts of problems. I found half the problem when I took the base bored and dry wall out (they didn’t seal the shower completely). After re sealing the outside of the shower we filled the shower floor with water and water started coming from underneath the shower. Looking at the material we use (Polyblend #60 Charcoal 10.5 oz. Sanded Ceramic Tile Caulk) to seal where the wall meets the floor and it says that it is not for areas with constant water use. Could this be the reason for the leak? Is there something that would be better to use keeping in mind I am in the hotel buiseness.
Thank You,
Dustin R. Miller
Hi Dustin,
The reason for the leak is that the shower floor is no properly waterproofed. Neither the grout nor caulk that you mentioned have anything at all to do with the waterproofing of your shower. It has nothing to do with the shower not being properly ‘sealed’. The entire shower floor should be completely waterproof before any tile is placed upon it. You should be placing tile onto a completely waterproofed substrate, not attempting to make the tile waterproof after it is installed. You showers are improperly constructed. Do you know what type of substrate you have beneath your shower floor tile?
We just had a complete bathroom remodel. The contractor used unsanded grout on the floor. The grout lines are wider than 1/8.” I noticed cracks in the grout and some crumbling so on the last day of the remodel they went over the cracks again. When I went to seal the grout, I noticed cracks again. The contractor came back and said he didn’t know why the grout was cracking and used caulk to go over all the cracks. Even though the caulk is suppose to match the grout color it’s darker. So now the floor is two toned. 1) After doing research I assume the grout cracked because he used the wrong grout 2) the caulk in the grout lines looks horrible and I have no idea why he did that 3) is the only solution to remove the grout and re-grout the entire bathroom again or is there anything else that can be done? Thank you for any input you might have!
Hi Lynn,
1. Yes, it’s because he used the wrong grout.
2. I have no idea either.
3. Yes, it is the only thing that will (properly) fix the problem.
I have shower tiles installed by a guy since I never installed before. But I will do grout by myself to save some money. I have some ceramic 6×6 and mosaic glass( 3/4 inch per mosiac) to form 6×6 mosaic row. I noticed the gap between ceramic tiles is 1/16, but mosaic is 1/8, when 2 walls meet, the gap could be 1/4( it is not even, part line is 1/8, part is 1/4). I was told by the guy to use unsanded grout for 1/16 upto 1/8( but you suggest use sanded for 1/8 which I agree), then use silicon sanded grout for walls meet.
It looks like I should use 3 types of grout, unsanded for 1/16, sanded for 1/8, silicon sanded grout for walls meet. If that is the case, which gap I should work on first? fill the big ones first? dry, then …. or better ideas?
Thanks!
Hi Peter,
Use the same grout for both tiles. Both types will work, sanded and unsanded, with a 1/16″ and 1/8″ grout line. Unless they are tiles which butt to each other I would likely just use sanded. ANY change of plane needs silicone or caulk in them, not any type of grout. I have no idea at all what silicone sanded grout may be – it isn’t a product.
Doing a bathroom floor. Just laid 65 sq ft of 2″ hex Calcutta gold marble. The joints are 3/16″. I’m stuck on what grout to use. I’m thinking Spectralock, but I’ve seen a web post where the marble pulled some solvent out of the epoxy causing “picture framing” discoloring of the marble. Have you seen this issue with Spectralock? Is there a sealer that should be applied to the marble prior to grouting with Spectralock that would prevent the picture framing issue?
Thanks in advance!
Rob
Hi Rob,
Picture framing is common with marble whether you are using regular grout or epoxy. With regular grout it’s the water, with epoxy it’s the solvent. In both cases the picture framing will dissipate. It may take a couple of weeks, but it will disappear.
Hi, Roger,
Q1: The grout in between the tiles surrounding my bathtub needs replacing, but only in certain areas. Is it OK to just replace the grout in these areas, or should I do the whole tub surround?
Q2: Is there sanded grout that comes with sealant incorporated into it, and do you recommend it?
Thanks.
Hi Stu,
1. It’s fine to just replace some of it, but be aware, it probably won’t match the existing. And it may not last, depends on why it needs to be replaced. You could end up with the same problem.
2. Urethanes and modified acrylics are pre-mixed grouts which never need sealed, but I still won’t use them in wet areas. If you do you need to make damn sure you wait the entire specified amount of time before water exposure, it’s normally at least seven full days. That is also simply for maintenance purposed, it doesn’t seal out water penetration. Water will still get behind your tile and grout.
Hiya Roger,
Another grout question: You say that Epoxy grout is the best. Is there a down side other than cost? Is it harder to install for a relative tile novice, or is it harder to clean off the tiles once the lines are filled? (I ask because I use lots of epoxy in other applications, and it’s damn near impossible to remove or clean up if you get it where it’s not meant to be!)
Also – I’m installing 12″ square slate-look porcelain tile, and have been planning for a larger grout line (1/4″) since real slate often uses larger grout lines. Is there any reason to refrain from doing so? I know you prefer slightly smaller lines; is that just aesthetic, or is there a practical or mechanical reason for preferring smaller lines? (I’ll be using a grout similar in color to, or perhaps slightly darker than, the tile.)
Thanks for the incredible site.
Hiya Thomas,
Spectralock is MUCH easier to clean up than any other epoxy grout. It is a bit more difficult to install, but if you follow the directions it works very well. There is no reason at all to use smaller grout lines, it’s simply aesthetic. I would recommend, however, using 3/16″ rather than 1/4″. 1/4″ doesn’t look that large until you get them between 12″ tiles, the 3/16″ fits much better.
Right-o. I tried that out while dry-fitting and found that 3/16 actually fits the room better, and looks great.
Follow up: What do you think about urethane grouts? Specifically Bostik’s QuartzLock2? It sounds like it has many benefits of Epoxy (no sealing, watertight, no staining, no color fading, etc.) with an easier install and just a bit of elasticity built in.
I think that’s an awesome grout for a floor. I just used it on 300 feet of travertine and loved it. Be sure to follow the directions and do no more than 10 feet at a time then clean. Seriously.
Roger,
I am hoping you could help with my question…
We are currently in the midst of a kitchen renovation. We had re-tiled the floor with porcelain tile about 5 years ago and used a light sanded grout. The grout is filthy despite my efforts to seal it and clean it. My plan is to remove all the grout in the kitchen area and when the cabinets are removed and a wall taken down my contractor will fix/replace the tiles as necessary in the appropriate areas. We are also continuing this tile into an adjacent room as I had purchased extra tile years ago when planning this reno. I am using a Dremel and tested grout removal underneath where the island will be and I had no issues removing it 1/4 inch. My contractor said we will use an epoxy grout when the time comes.
So my question…I can’t do the grout removal right before new tile goes down. It will take me a month to remove what I need. What do I do in the interim to protect the removed grout areas and the tiles themselves. Would they shift? Should I put down blue painter’s tape over the lines I did to keep crud out of them?
Thanks in advance to any advice.
Amy
Hi Amy,
Removing the grout will not affect the bond of your tile at all. It makes no difference at all whether there is grout in there or not (as far as the tile being bonded or ‘shifting’). The only thing you’d have to deal with is crud in them, the tape should work fine.
Hi Roger,
I am installing a kitchen backsplash and have questions about epoxy grout.
Will the sand in SpectraLOCK Pro Premium Grout scratch glass tile accents?
Will my 1/16″ grout lines look OK? Lacerite recommends using spectraLOCK for 1/8″ & larger grout lines.
Do you think I should use the SpectraLOCK Pro Premium Grout or SpectraLOCK Pro Grout?
Do you have a favorite unsanded epoxy grout that you like?
Once again thanks for sharing your infinite wisdom.
Mark
Hi Mark,
It won’t normally scratch it at all, but always test first. Your 1/16″ lines will look fine. Pro is being replaced by pro premium, to most people in most applications, yours included, there is no discernible difference. I don’t know that there is an epoxy grout classified as unsanded. If you are concerned with the sand that much perhaps you should look into using a urethane based grout instead.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the reply. If the test samples do no scratch I will use the SpectraLOCK as you suggest. I’ll send you pictures when I’m finished.
Mark
I have a tile job were the tile company is pushing fusion pro grout to my coustamor I had a bad experience with this product already with cleaning grout off the glass tile she is worried about staining on back splash behind the stove I told her that sealing the tile and using grout shield to mix the grout than waiting a week than using a grout sealer will work well to keep from staining. What do you think ? And any comments on fuison pro grout? thanks for your time for responding don
Hi Don,
Fusion pro is good grout provided it is installed correctly. You need to follow the cleaning instructions to the letter, though, as with most pre-mixed grouts. I WOULD NOT use grout shield and sealer – use one or the other. I would probably just seal regular grout.
It’s got a pretty prominent gap, Roger. 1/16 + it definitely needs grout…. So I have to tape each of those teensy tiny little bricks? Could I shellac em?
Yes, but the shellac won’t come off when you’re done and may yellow over time. Coat them with rubber cement then peel it off when you’re done.
I was thinking the shellac would come off with denatured alcohol, but your idea is MUCH better. I did a sample piece today but didn’t get around to the grout, so I’ll put some glop on another bit tomorrow. That sounds like it. Many thanks!
Oh wise-one wid da pointy ears,
I have to grout some listello that is a combo of brick shaped glass and split faced, rough hewn stone. The surfaces are very uneven and not on the same plane. I’m using urethane grout. But how to keep the grout out of the crevices of the craggily stone? A grout float doesn’t seem like it would work AT ALL in this case. What do you suggest! Thanks….
Hi Chris,
That listello is likely not meant to be grouted. If you want to grout it you’ll need to tape off the split-face stone.
BTW, I always hit “reply” under your name, but for some reason, safari in iPad posts it as a new thread…… Sorry!
It didn’t that time.
iPad weirdness – in chrome, it behaves itself. Thanks again!
Great website. Thanks for the work it takes.
I have a 1999 shower stall made of panels of “cultured marble” (a type of fiberglass, I am told) and the floor panel is failing (showing stains that cannot be cleaned). Can I install tile to this shower floor using thinset to bind the tile to the (plastic) flooring, then using epoxy grout?
Hi Brian,
No, you can’t. Thinset will not bond to that. You’ll need to remove the pan and replace it with a regular mud deck.
Unfortunately, the floor is not a pan but a panel of 3/4″ cultured marble (same thing used for the shower walls) laid down as a floor and caulked to “baseboards” made of the same material. Other than removing it, could I use epoxy to set the tiles (won’t the epoxy bond to the plastic?), then use epoxy grout?
I honestly don’t know if it will work or not. If you rough up the base with a belt sander or something similar it should, I just can’t guarantee that it will. If it flexes at all it will break the bond if it does initially bond. Epoxy doesn’t like movement.
We are in the middle of a complete master bath renovation. The reno includes a 4 X 7 fully tiled shower. The tiles for the walls are a 12X 24 polished porcelain. The floor is a 2X2 Mosaic porcelain tile( Mat). The tile store we purchased from insists that epoxy grout is used on the floor and an standard un-sanded grout to be used on the shower wall to prevent scratching of the polished porcelain.
Our contractor says he will not use epoxy and insists the Mapei Keracolor FF( with drop effect technology) for all areas. He also uses sanded grout everywhere.
Question: Is this product suitable for the shower floor and will it scratch the polished wall tile?
Just spent a $1000 on tile and want to make sure it is done right…..please help,
Thanks
Hi Mark,
Yes, it is suitable. No it won’t scratch.
Take the professional tile contractor’s advice, he want’s his work to last. People at the tile store just want to sell you more product.
Hi Roger,
Just getting to the grout stage after using your site up to this point, thanks for all the great advice you saved me many mistakes. My question is I have 1/8 grout lines and want to use sanded grout but I have polished porcelain tile do I have to worry about scratching the tile or will it be OK if I am careful applying the grout?
Hi Mike,
No problem at all with sanded grout. It shouldn’t scratch the porcelain.
Hello Again Roger!
Grout question…ssssssssss
Q #1: What type of and how high should I apply grout to a 1-1/2″ – 2″ size pebble floor tile mats…
Q #2: Should I do this in 2 applications or go heavy on 1…
Q #3: It seems to me that when I am finished I should have the stone surfaces just peaking above the grout…which means I will really only see about 2/3 of each stone surface…and the grout “channels” will allow the the water to run to the drain…correct?
Q #4: Slate tile and stones should be sealed before grouting…correct?
This is what my sister wants and what she wants she usually gets…unless I can get some advice somewhere else!
Q #5: Finally…kerdi drain should be adjusted and set just slightly below the grout level at the drain…correct?:oops:
Your help has been invaluable!
Regards
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
1. Sanded. It depends on if they are flat top or rounded. Flat top to the top, rounded to the top of the vertical sides, where it begins to round up.
2. Only one. Always.
3. Yes.
4. Yes.
5. Yes.
Hand your sister a beer and tell her to CHILL!
If removing the floor is not an option, what might be the best thing to do. Is there no fix?
Hi Sam,
Removing what floor? You have not replied to a previous question or answer, so I have no idea what you’re talking about. Care to fill me in?
A few years back, I had 15”x15” porcelain tile installed in my kitchen. The tile was laid very close together, less than 1/8″ apart. I watched the installer lay some of the tile, and he put globs of thinset in each corner and a glob in the middle and then pushed it down on the cement floor. The tile is fairly thin (about 1/4″ or a little more) and there are hollow spots where the tile floats above the base. My problem is that I have been unable to keep any grout sticking for any length of time. It keeps popping out. I have even used an additive which was supposed to make the grout adhere better, but the grout lines are so thin and shallow that over the space of a few weeks they pop out. Is there anything I can do to make the grout stick? Thanking you in advance,
Sam
Hi Sam,
Yes there is, you can remove your improperly installed floor and replace it with one that is installed properly, not with the five-spot method. Your grout is sticking to the tile just fine, the problem is that grout is a solid product not made to compensate for movement at all. The five-spot method of tile installation (which is just LAZY) will cause movement because your tile is not properly bonded to the substrate.
So I am out of luck? I can’t remove the floor. Just looking for the best solution given my situation. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Sam
There is no solution to fix a floor installed like that except replacement. It simply is not bonded nor supported correctly, two things absolutely required for the durability of the installation and grout.
grout emergency:
I have shower walls in 12/12 ceramic, with accent in glass and floor is 1/2 inch marble mosaic (not polished). I wanted to use the new quartz epoxy due to ease to work with, non staining, pre-mixed, however for my 5×10 shower the estimate was $600. Now I don’t know what to use with 3 different materials.
Thanks.
Hi Jennifer,
1. It’s not an ’emergency’, it’s just indecision at this point.
2. I have no idea what the new ‘quartz epoxy’ may be. Brand and name?
3. With those three types of tile you can use any grout on them.
$600 for a 5×10 shower? That’s cheap for epoxy. Seriously.
Hi,
I’m using a stone 12 x 12 mosaic on my shower floor. The stones are sized from a couple inces to just small chips. The grout lines will be from 1/4 inch down to almost no space between the stones. What kind of grout should I use. Thanks
Bryan
Hi Bryan,
Sanded grout or epoxy.
Hi Roger,
I hope I am not too late to the conversation/ question asking. We are in the middle of a renovation and I just had my tile guy install handmade clay tiles with no grout (I just read your previous section on not to do that ) While it looks AMAZING with the different color variations as well as clay sizes- there are a few areas that need to be filled. I was thinking maybe clear silicone or maybe a clear caulk?? Then I thought maybe do an unsanded grout as close to the color as I can get. What do you recommend and how soon? Thanks so much for your time and help!! I can email you a photo is that helps you see it better?
Hi Autumn,
You need grout of some sort in there, silicone or caulk will not last (it is not a permanent product). I recommend finding an unsanded grout (since they are handmade tile) as close to the base color as possible.
Installing white glossy mini subway tiles on bathroom walls with mesh back and white glossy mini hexagon tiles with mesh on bathroom floors. grout space is 1\16. What is the best grout is the best to use?
Hi Dan,
I would use sanded, but non-sanded can also be used in that scenario.
Hi Roger!
I’m using a white calacatta marble look-a-like with subtle grey swirls on my shower walls. It is a matte white, not glossy. I was told not to use white grout because it would stain too much. I’m using TEC Power grout which is supposed to be stain resistant. Would I be crazy to use white grout, or is it ok with the Power grout? Is this the color I would use to make it look like all one slab? (I’m using a stacking pattern with 12X24 tiles with a 1/16″ joint.) As always, I really appreciate your advice!
P.S. It is not real marble tile. I think it’s a ceramic tile made to look like marble. It has a solid grey edge.
Hi Renee,
You want to use a grout which matches the base tile color. White would be the correct choice. Tec power grout is great stuff.