In my previous post about thinsets I explained what modified thinsets are and how they came about. That post actually started out as this post, I tend to get sidetracked by beer my dog.
Unmodified thinsets, in one form or another, have been around forever. With the expanded use of modified thinsets, the unmodified version had nearly gone by the wayside with everyone except us hard-headed setters who bought unmodified thinsets and added liquid admixes to them – to create modified thinsets. I no longer do this for my modified thinsets, but it was a hard habit to kick.
The reemergence (I know – doesn’t even look like a word) of unmodified thinsets came about in November of 2001. At an NTCA / Schluter workshop the statement was made that the preferred method of installation over ditra is the use of an unmodified thinset.
Mass confusion ensued.
This has continued to this day with even seasoned professionals questioning if unmodified should be used, and if so – why and which unmodified to use. This problem is compounded for do-it-yourselfers who don’t have nearly the understanding nor material and product access that we do. It’s difficult to find and purchase. If it helps, it’s sometimes difficult for us as well.
So let’s see if I can shed a little light on the subject and at least let you know which ones to look for and where. This list WILL be a bit biased. If you’ve read anything here you know I’m a Laticrete diehard. It is, and will continue to be, my preferred manufacturer for nearly every tile and stone setting material needed. That said typed, I do realize that other companies exist.
Just like modified thinsets, there are different levels or grades of unmodified thinsets. This is normally measured by the ratio or percentage of cement to sand in the mix. The higher the cement content, the better the thinset. More cement, more sticky, more stable.
It is also, in part, due to the type and percentage of whatever retention product is in the mix. For most thinsets (as far as I can tell – ancient guarded secret and all…) a powder called ‘hydrated lime’ is used. It is the same lime used by brick masons in order to retain water in the cement mix for a longer period of time, thus making the cured product stronger.
So that’s how unmodified thinsets are ‘grouped’ or graded – the ratio of those three items in the mix. Now that you know that, let’s group them in order according to how they are graded and perform. I’ll do this by manufacturer since most people only have one or two specific brands available.
Laticrete:
Laticrete 272 is considered the premium (best) – then Laticrete 317. There is negligible difference in these thinsets unless an admix is added to make them modified. For use as an unmodified I prefer the 317. Although they classify the 272 as their ‘premium’, they’re nearly identical.
The difference in these two thinsets: “There is more portland cement in LATICRETE 272 and the sand in the
LATICRETE 272 is slightly finer so it is a little bit creamier.” (Thanks to Anita at Laticrete for this clarification) The 272 contains 25-35% portland while the 317 contains 20-30% portland.
On the consumer side Laticrete products often have a different name – you may be familiar with Laticrete MegaBond. That is nearly identical to the 317. I use 317 for almost all of my unmodified thinset needs.
Mapei:
Kerabond: This is considered Mapei’s premium unmodified thinset. It works very well for any Schluter product
Keraset: This is Mapei’s mid-range unmodified. It’s not ideal but it works if it’s the only available. Give it extra time to fully cure! If you use Keraset be sure to wait a FULL 24 hours, at least, before the next step.
Keraflor: The ‘economy’ level unmodified from Mapei. I would not recommend using it for any shower applications or any regularly used flooring surface over ditra. Best to find one of the other two.
Custom:
Uncoupling Mat Mortar: This is Custom’s premium unmodified mortar made specifically for Custom’s spiderweb mat and other ditra-like products. It is difficult to find and has limited availability. If you can get your hands on it, use it.
Masterblend: Currently Custom’s only readily available (to my knowledge) unmodified thinset. It is available at most Home Depots. It’s a good sack of powder if you have a flood and need a makeshift levy. That’s it. Any reputable tile contractor will tell you not to use this for anything – ever. I’m one of them. The only really good thing I can say about it – It is an unmodified thinset.*
*This is by no means any type of intentional slander or slam against Custom building products! They make some great products. Masterblend, however, is not one of them in my opinion. And that’s all this is – my personal opinion. I do not consider this a viable product with which to install tile or stone over Schluter products.
Tec:
Sturdi-Set: Tec’s premium unmodified. A good unmodified thinset for nearly anything requiring one.
Full-Set Plus: Tec’s other unmodified. Comparable to a mid-range unmodified. It’ll work in a pinch if needed, but ensure full cure time before the next installation stage.
Bostik (Hydroment):
Ditra-Set: This is the best product with which to set anything over kerdi or ditra – it was specifically manufactured for that purpose. The availability is extremely limited, however. Most professionals don’t have ready access to it, let alone regular homeowners. So just plan on not finding this.
If you are lucky enough to find it you’ll feel ecstatic, like the luckiest person alive! If you don’t find it you’ll just think ‘Well, FloorElf told me I wouldn’t find it…’. See – win-win for me. Yay.
So in the groups above it breaks down like this:
Best:
Bostik Ditra-Set
Laticrete 317 (Laticrete MegaBond)
Laticrete 272
Mapei KeraBond
Tec Sturdi-Set
Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar
Works if limited options exist:
Mapei KeraSet
Tec Full-Set Plus
It’s last call – find something:
Mapei KeraFlor
Go home alone and hold onto your wallet:
Custom Masterblend
So there you have it. The most commonly available unmodified thinsets and where they rate on the scale of quality. As I stated, this list is biased. The list above is the order in which I would use them if given the choice. Regardless of the order under each heading (Best, Works, etc.) this is how they are rated by their respective manufacturers.
Do not be surprised if you cannot find one of the quality products easily. They are not commonly stocked by regular big box stores except for the Laticrete Megabond. The best place to look for any of them would be at a tile supply shop. If, however, you are limited to normal big box stores, you can find some of the common products there.
Lowes will either stock Laticrete or Mapei. Home Depot will only (currently) carry Custom products. Menards normally stocks Mapei. Beyond those three, I have no idea what you may have around you.
You can always check the respective company’s website to find the nearest supplier. Since you will be looking for one of the more uncommon products keep in mind that just because you have a supplier near you does not mean you’ll find that particular product there. It’s always best to call the customer service line and ask them directly where you can buy the product you want.
One last thing – before anyone asks: adding more portland cement to a particular product may or may not make it better. Adding more cement to masterblend, for instance, will not make it comparable to kerabond. It doesn’t work like that. These thinsets, as all tile installation products, are put together in specific ratios in order to accomplish what the company wants. It may work, and it may not work. Unless you personally know someone in the chemistry department of the manufacturing plant there is no accurate way to tell.
ANSI Specifications
All thinsets, as well as any tile installation product, will have a specific ANSI (American National Standards Institute) number on the bag. This determines what type of product it is and what ANSI standard it meets. The number for unmodified thinset is A118.1. The ‘.1’ at the end determines the unmodified version. If you find a thinset you are curious about, and it is not on this list, look for that number. If it has A118.1 AND more numbers after that (with no mention of admix) then it is a MODIFIED thinset.
For instance, if it says on the bag that the product meets ANSI standards A118.1, A118.4 and A188.11 then it is a modified thinset. All modified thinsets meet the criteria set forth for unmodified thinsets as well, that’s why the A118.1 is on there.
ALSO! (I know it’s a pain, I live it) Most bags of UNmodified thinset have the A118.1 number as well as the A118.4, possibly A118.11 also If it does it will plainly state that it only meets the last two standards (for modified) when mixed with the appropriate admix. Masterblend states that it meets all three – with the addition of admix (liquid latex). Don’t let this confuse you. They cannot legally misstate the ANSI numbers.
I hope this helps clear up a little bit of confusion about these products and helps you determine which would be appropriate or best for your project. As always, if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask them below. I answer them all. I’m just super cool like that.
kerdi shower…
I have put up cement board and have seamed with mapie unmodified wall and floor. I am then going to try to get 317 to apply the kerdi would I then also tile with the 317? Or can I use a modified thin-set to set the tile, if so what is your recommendation (not really worried about warranty). Tile is a glazed subway tile walls and unglazed porcelain 2″ hex for shower floor.
on a side note what happens if you use a good modded thinset with kerdi? will it burst in to flames? Also will using an unmodified not be as strong as a modified?
Thanks!
Hi Kiel,
I would use the 317 for both. Schluter is of the opinion that the modified polymers will not cure with their membrane (or take an extraordinarily long time to do so). I, however, have had no problems with that. When fully cured the 317 will actually be stronger structurally than most modifieds. Really.
Hi Roger
I just tore up a tile floor I installed 15 years ago over plywood. The floor held up well, I just decided to change the tile.
In the process of removing the tile, I found some areas near the sink where the 1/4 inch plywood underlay had gotten wet and begun to weaken which would had caused a flooring failure down the road. I have removed the 1/4 plywood underlay and the portion of the 5/8 inch plywood that was under that and had also suffered some water damage.
I have decided based upon massive amounts of advice/research to use cement backer board this time.
I have plank flooring, with 5/8 plywood on top of that, the original owner had installed carpet in the kitchen, between the carpet and the 5/8 plywood was some sort of roofing type paper (may have been felt paper 50 years ago) which has adhered to the plywood. I just laid the 1/4 plywood on top of it and set the tile.
My question is – now that I have removed the old 1/4 plywood, can I apply thin set over this paper and lay the cement board. Or do I need to remove and replace the plywood? There is no feasible way to remove the paper.
I keep hearing the thin-set is not for adhesion as much as it is to fill voids.
That being the case I don’t see why this won’t work. However I would rather pull up the plywood while the kitchen is in disarray than tear up another tiled floor. Dad always said “you never have time to do the job right the first time, but you always have time to go back and do it over again”.
I hope my question made sense.
Hey Patrick,
No need to remove that at all. As you said, the thinset beneath the backer is only for support, it doesn’t need to bond to anything.
Dad was correct!
Thank you for your help!
Was just notified that the tile came in for pick up today
Hey Robert,
Leave it. Actually the more water that gets to it the stronger it will be. Water will continue the hydration process and allow what portland there is in the mix to grow longer, stronger crystals.
My bigger issue is that you’ve used kerdi (or kerdi-like?) substrate on your floor in the shower. That should not be used on a shower floor, it is only for flat floors. What product did you use?
KerdiDitra can be made waterproof, but not to be used in submerged areas (shower floor).Isn’t Kerdi, (orange fleeced material ) , designed and used to waterproof a shower? I have seen many videos and recommendations via schluter and JOHN BRIDGE TILE FORUM, that it indeed can waterproof the entire shower.. Why do we have contradiction to this??
Help clarify please. I have just installed Kerdi in my 3rd shower.
Yes John, Kerdi is used to waterproof the shower. Robert, however, mentioned “a Kerdi waffle like base” which makes me believe it is actually ditra, as kerdi has no waffles.
My last sentence said kerdi, I meant ditra. Sorry about that. When people confuse the two I tend to do the same when typing quickly. Kerdi is the correct product, ditra (what I believe Robert used) is not.
Roger, have you ever used Pro Spec Perma Set 200 made by Bonsal America Corporation? The guys at the tile store are recommending it for use with Kerdi panels and Ditra floor covering.
Thanks,
Bill
Hey Bill,
I have not used it but from all the information available it looks like a good unmodified thinset for use with schluter materials. Bonsal does have quality products, we just don’t get many of them out this way.
Thanks for all the info. I read your posts on unmodified thin set and after all the reading, I am still confused on what to use for tile on cement board and on sheet rock (previously painted wall). I noticed LOWES carries the following: Mapei Ultralite Polymer-modified mortar. Would you recommend this for the tile install?
Hey Kent,
Yes, that thinset will be fine. Any good modified thinset will be fine for that.
If I am able to find Laticrete Megabond, you would recommend this instead, correct?
Yes.
If you have any more questions can you PLEASE post them as a reply to this one. I have over 15000 comments and questions here. When you type something as you have above I need to take time to search for your last question and my answer to it to give you an accurate answer. It states it right above where you post questions, please help me help you. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback Roger. This kept me up last night, so I called both Mapei and Schluter this morning – both told me that if I create a sandwich of a layer of less than 1/4″ Kerabond, then ditra, then another layer of less than 1/4″ Kerabond, then tile, that I should be fine.
My only problem now is finding a high-quality unmodified medium-bed mortar to use between the tile and ditra, any suggestions?
I chose not to use kerdi bands between the pieces of ditra; the only part of the bathroom that could get wet is covered by a large single piece of ditra, so I shouldn’t have any water issues.
Thanks again.
There isn’t one as far as I know. All medium-bed mortars I’ve ever seen are modified.
I think I’ll just take the Kerabond up to 1/4″ then, and hope for the best. The ditra that is down now with 3/16″ of Kerabond under it looks pretty decent, if a bit wavy… I will probably use a 3/8″x3/8″ trowel on the tile (12×24″) to level things out a bit.
Who knew tiling was so complicated! Thanks for the great site though, it is a huge help and the good info really helps the confidence level.
Cheers.
Hey Roger,
I have just laid a nu-heat mat using a Mapei modified, then Kerabond to lay ditra. Haven’t got to tiling yet but have a question about thickness and unmodified Kerabond. I am matching up with 3/4″ hardwood and chose not to use ditra xl because of the nu-heat mat – didn’t want to go too thick. So, i laid a pretty thick layer of Kerabond, probably not quite 1/4″ to lay the ditra over the mat, not realizing that THINset has limitations to how thick it can be put down. I was planning on another thick layer of Kerabond over the ditra and under the tile to match the height of the hardwood, but now I am thinking I shouldn’t. Do you think Kerabond can handle about 3/16″ plus ditra plus another 3/16″ and remain dimensionally stable?
Thanks for the help!
Hey Corey,
1/4″ is the absolute maximum I would use with kerabond, or any thinset really. What you should do is put the kerdi on the mat with regular thickness (about 3/32″ or so) then get a medium-bed mortar for your tile above that. Medium-beds can easily handle 1/2″ build-up, some up to 1″ or so. I would not try to go that thick with the kerabond.
Can I install glass tile on floor of kerdi shower with unmodified thin set? (The answer is no). How can I get around this and my stubborn wife (Changing wife is the right answer probably).
Thank you
You can use modified. With that said, I’ll say this. And I CAN NOT emphasize this point enough: DO NOT PUT GLASS TILE ON YOUR SHOWER FLOOR!!!
Are you trying to kill yourself? A better question perhaps: is your wife attempting to kill you off?
Try this to convince yourselves: Get a block of ice, take it out of the bag and set it on the second step from the top of a set of stairs. Now, take off your shoes and socks and jog down the stairway, using the ice as the second step.
Now, send me the address to your hospital room and I’ll send you a card.
If you use glass on the floor of your shower that is how slippery it is going to be when it’s wet. Really. Beyond that, you need to use cast glass on ANY type of flooring installation, is that what you have? You need cast glass because of the dimensional stability of the body of the glass – the other stuff will crack. You like walking over broken glass with wet, bare feet? You’ll know it’s cast glass by looking at your receipt – did you pay over $45.00 per square foot (on the cheap end)? If not, it’s not cast glass.
Did I make my point? But yeah, you can use modified…
What if it were glass mosaic tile, would that make it any better. Paid a good 10$ per sq. ft and it did seem excessive at the time! (I’m a cheap bastard, but paid good money for kerdi and seemed to make sense). (By the way I hate the captchas at the bottom, my english might not be very good, but I’m convinced xedgmar is not a word.)
Do you think I’d be better of with Ultraflex II or versabond? I have access to both for about same price.
For walls I mean.
Ultraflex 2 would be better in my opinion. No, the fact that it’s a mosaic does not change the answer. That is not cast glass.
xedgmar is too a word! It means “that annoying box into which I have to type stupid words just to ask a question!”
Sorry for the capcha, it has cut my spam comments from about 150 a day to only 20 or so – seriously.
I don’t often go leaving comments on blogs, but I just wanted to give you thanks for sharing your experience. That’s it; no questions, nothing snarky. Just a sincere “Thank you”.
Thanks Matt.
In case anyone in the Pittsburgh area is looking for the Ditra-set, it can be found at Best Tile in Wexford. It’s about $24 after tax for the 50 lb. bag. I only need enough for ~25 ft^2 so I wish they made/sold smaller bags. :P
I am getting ready to do my first tiling job. The room is 21×12, with 2×10 joists spaced 16″ OC with 2 layers of Advantec OSB 3/4″ T&G, both layers screwed to the joists and glued with PL Premium.
I plan on using Schluter Ditra. I’m leaning toward using modified thinset for both the OSB and the tile itself. I’ve heard the warranty is a joke, and also that using modified for the Ditra to Tile bond will perform better. Is the above true, and is this something you recommend?
What modified thinset would you recommend for this application? Also, would you use the same stuff for the OSB to Ditra as you would for the Ditra to tile?
Hey Justin,
I use modified with ditra a lot. You can use the same for both. Any good modified thinset will work fine.
Thanks for the reply. I’m using 18×18 ceramic tile – what size trowel would you use? I was told 1/2″, but would like to use smaller if possible – I’m starting to approach height differences with my adjacent rooms. Also, a shop here recommended Custom Versabond modified thinset, they also can get TEC 345 or 398 (and others). What do you recommend? I want to make sure to get good thinset so I’m not redoing anything later – Spend the money on the front end and not on a redo, know what I mean?
I know exactly what you mean – I try to explain that to people all the time.
I use versabond a lot. It’s a good thinset. People think it isn’t because HD sells it, but it’s a very good product, I’d go with that.
Man thanks for the help. Any chance I can use less than a 1/2″ trowel on 18″ tile? Last question I promise.
shit – missed that one, sorry. Yes, you can use a 3/8″, it should be fine.
I was expecting to read about WHY, or in What Wpplications I would Want to use the unmodified version. Did I miss that, if so please redirect me ????
Thanks!
Hi Dennis,
I apologize for not writing to your expectations.
The only application in which unmodified thinset is recommended (demanded) is with Schluter products – Ditra and Kerdi. These posts were written specifically for that purpose – as the third paragraph states:
“The reemergence (I know – doesn’t even look like a word) of unmodified thinsets came about in November of 2001. At an NTCA / Schluter workshop the statement was made that the preferred method of installation over ditra is the use of an unmodified thinset.”
Short of using Schluter products – use modified thinset. The only other viable use in real world applications is the bed of thinset beneath backerboards on floor applications – but you can use modified there if you want. Schluter REQUIRES unmodified. That’s what this information is for.
Hello Roger-I have a problem with my kitchen floor.At the east end of the kitchen the floor has a hollow spot (lower than the rest of the floor) about 36 inches by 48 inches and 3/8 inch deep(tapered). I am using ( just installed the hardie backer 1/4 inch(not yet put down with thin set.How should i level out the hollow spot so i can put down the backer board to be level with the rest of the floor. thanks for your great insite on tile innstalations. sincerely Rod Abrams
Hi Rod,
I don’t know, you didn’t say whether it is a depressed area, as in lower than the floor – that would be my guess. Or an actual hollow area, meaning it’s not properly attached to the joists. If it’s depressed then put a piece of plywood in there the thickness of the depression if it’s 1/4″ or larger. If it’s 1/8″ – 1/4″ use self-leveling cement. If it’s smaller than 1/8″ put thinset on your substrate, enough so it’s level everywhere, lay your 1/4″ durock in it and let the thinset cure – then screw it down.
If it’s an actual hollow spot – rebuild your floor.
Roger
In a situation where thinset has been applied to the Ditra but the tile was not installed, what can be done other than scrape off the excess thinset?
Would there be a problem with the thinset left in the membrame?
Thanks
Hey Gary,
Scraping off the thinset is about all you can do. Leaving it likely won’t cause any problems except thickness issues.
I am having a problem using an epoxy mortar to set serpentine marble. I am using North American NA3900 two part mortar. The instructions say to use 1/4 x1/4 notch which the instructions say will give you 27-30 tile per gallon of mortar. (12×12 tile) I am using 1/4 x 1/4 trowel and am back-buttering the tile with a 3/16 x3/16 and I am only getting about 10 tile per gallon. I am installing on hardieboard, and am having problems getting the epoxy to lay down and stay. I am spreading it out with the flat edge, then when I try to trowel the notches, it will roll up like water on an oil surface. At this rate, the mortar is costing me $3-$3.50 per foot, and this is the least expensive epoxy I can find. If the other stuff has the same coverage, it would cost be $5-$6 per tile just for the mortar. What am I doing wrong? (besides picking a serpentine marble, which I will never do again)
I’m not Roger (or his elf), but I have a comment. I don’t understand how/why the instructions would say you can get 27-30 sq. ft. out of a gallon, if we do the math. I believe a 1/4×1/4 tile gives a mortar layer that is, on average, 1/8″ thick. (There should be little ridges that are 1/4″ high x 1/4″ wide, and the empty valleys between the ridges should also be 1/4″ wide.) Therefore, the volume of mortar per tile would be 12″*12″*1/8″ = 18 cubic inches. Expressed in gallons, that is 0.078 gallons/tile. So you can only get (1 gal)/(0.078gal/tile) = 12.8 tiles out of a gallon at best.
If we also allow for backbuttering with a 3/16″ trowel (V-notch or square, it doesn’t matter), that would give an average layer that is 3/32″. The volume of mortar for backbuttering would be 12″*12″*3/32″ = 13.5 c.i. = 0.058 gal. Thus, for backbuttering + the floor mortar, you are using 0.078 gal + 0.058 gal = 0.136 gal, which means you can only get 1/.136 = 7.33 tiles out of a gallon. Soooo, it seems like you aren’t doing anything wrong, but those instructions are misleading bordering on fraudulent.
(Can’t help you regarding the consistency problem.)
Hey Ron,
Try tilting the trowel down toward the floor a little more (less angle) and press a little harder as you comb it out. I haven’t worked with the NA3900 (I don’t think) so I can’t speak to the workability of it.
I also can’t speak much to the coverage of it. I can tell you that the fact you’re backbuttering your tile is going to effectively halve the coverage of it. You’re using almost twice as much. On top of that any coverage amounts with nearly any product are relying on average numbers. The substrate, tile and even whether or not you burn it into the substrate, are all going to affect the amount used. The coverage statements with that product may simply be inaccurate. I have no idea.
Roger: Do you have any concerns about using a Lowes porcelain tile product, such as the thin tiles they so often sell at minimal cost (about a buck per square) to trusting homeowners? I was just asked to install a thin porcelain tile and I found them very easy to break and chip. The boxes had absolutely no PEI rating printed anywhere, so I was largely at a loss to assess their quality or break strength except by my own experience and intuition. Customer is picky, but apparently not picky enough to buy a stronger tile or ask me to select a product for them. I’m concerned that I’m gonna get a call-back in the future. Thanks in advance for any response you might offer. Don
Hey Don,
Sometimes it’s good sometimes it isn’t. Depends on the batch of tile you get. The worst have facial dimensions which aren’t very uniform, they require larger grout lines to compensate for it.
Roger, what are your thoughts on those flooring and tile forum sites?…. have you ever been on them giving advice?
Your site by far have the best info for tiling.
Thanks
Mark
Hey Mark,
I am on John Bridge’s forum as TileArt1, but I rarely give advice any more there. They are good information sources, John’s is the best in my opinion. I hang out in the Pro’s area and wander in and argue politics just to be an asshole sometimes.
Roger,
Thanks for the reply, im on there as well as jetswet its a good site to read the posts. And catch ideas. I have been thought and trained a lot about tile but I have learned that most of learnings werent suitable as todays standard so reading up on your site helps a lot.
Thanks
Mark
Roger, not a snarky comment at all, i come to seek your wisdom.
We are trying to select someone to put down about 2000 sqft of porcelain tile and three bathrooms (new construction). the floor is hydronic heated gypcrete.
so when we started looking at decoupling layers the ditra of course came up as a top choice but we are told that the unmodified must be used to maintain their warranty but the tile setters want to use modified because of the porcelain. after working through everything, one is suggesting ditra and TEC 336 unmodified mortar so it matches the letter of the ditra warranty. the other is suggesting we use Custom’s spider net and their premium mortars top & bottom to get their warranty.
It seems that if ditra really was the have-all and be-all they would address this unmodified mortar problem in their warranty.
both tile setters are extremely well qualified and both initially suggested using ditra with the best mortar for the job (modified) and screw the warranty.
do you have any suggestions? you are a big ditra fan but what about the spider mat?
Hey Craig,
Either product and thinset suggestions will work fine. To be honest I would say the same as both of them already have, use the best mortar and screw the warranty.
Ditra, Spidermat, TEC 336, and custom’s premium mortars are all very good products. With any of them, or any combination of those with a good modified mortar, is going to rely on the ability of your installer. Whichever you choose let them choose which one they are more comfortable with.
Don’t judge my advice on the fact that I ended the last sentence with a preposition.
Thanks for the answer Roger, I guess you do answer questions. I appreciate your website and have learned a lot of information. By the way, at least your last sentence didn’t end with parole.
Hah! Nice, I’m stealin’ that joke.
Not sure if the last post went through. I am going to start setting Porcelain wall tiles to my Kerdi installed Shower tomorrow (Sunday February 3, 2013). Should I mix the Laticrete 317 as LAticrete bag suggests or slightly wetter? I am concerned about getting to wet with the heavy Porcelain tile. Please let me know your opinion/experience today since I plan to start this tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
Hey Kenneth,
When installing the tile mix it per the instructions on the bag. Only mix wetter to install the membrane itself.
Roger,
I have installed the Schluter Shower Sysytem using Kerdi and I used the Laticrete 317 thinset to apply to green board. I am having a contractor install my porcilean tile and he is concerned about using the thinset with 3/8 inch thick porcilean tiles. Schluter says you must use thin set for warranty and the contractor is making feel like it is a mistake. Have you installed porcilean tiles using Schluter and Laticrete 317? The LAticrete bag says you should add additive 333 if porcilean tile but that would be without Schluter Kerdi, right?
Hey Kenneth,
Yes, it would void the warranty. Schluter wants unmodified, TCNA wants modified for porcelain. It’s a no-win. I have, many times, installed porcelain with 317, it works fine. If you type ‘ceiling tile’ into the search box I have some pictures of some two foot by two foot tiles that I installed on a ceiling over kerdi with 317. It works just fine.
That said, I’ve also, many times, used modified, it works fine too. I would leave it up to your contractor, to my mind schluter’s warranty isn’t going to make a difference one way or the other. Really.
Roger,
Thanks for your reply. When installing the Kerdi material I had a 3/16 gap between the medal dry wall corner and where my green board met. After installing the Kerdi I put some Laticrete 317 down a 6 inch strip. Should I recover with a sheet of Kerdi? Will the Porcelain tile and Laticrete ahere fine to the small layer of just Laticrete 317 on top of the Kerdi material? Thanks for your help.
Yes, you should cover that with a strip of kerdi. It will bond just fine to the 317 you have there. You want to cover up as much of that greenboard as absolutely possible. Any water will disintegrate it.
Thanks Roger. I wanted to make sure you understood my last response. I do not have green board exposed. I actually covered ALL green board with Laticrete 317 and then covered with Kerdi. After completing that I put a 6-7 inch wide area of Laticrete 317 over part of the Kerdi to level the difference between steel corner drywall and the green board we installed. I wondered with the Porcelain tile would adhere OK if I do not recover the area that was first covered with Kerdi, then a strip of Laticrete to level? I hope this makes sense? Thanks much for your help.
Oh, yeah. That’ll bond just fine to that. No need to cover it again.
Thanks. You have been VERY helpful.
Roger – I am getting ready to put in a kerdi shower and I need to get some unmodified thinset. The tile I will be installing over the kerdi is carrara marble. I have found Custom’s Uncoupling Mat Mortar at HD, but they only have it in gray. I think I should use white for this tile. White is special order and they don’t even know if they can get it. I am in Columbus, OH and have not been able to locate any Lacticrete, Ditra set, Kerabond or Sturdi Set. I did find a tile shop that has TEC’s new uncoupling mat mortar in white. Have you heard of anyone who has used it? Any good? Any other suggestions? Is Custom’s uncoupling mat mortar that good that I should have HD special order the white for me? Thanks you!
Hey Matt,
I’ve used the new TEC stuff, it’s a very good thinset. Grab that and go at it.
Roger,
I have Ditra on top of Bostik Ditra-Set and then I’m using the Ditra-Set to set the tiles (basement and porcelain tiles 4″x24″ ).
The only place around here that has the Ditra-Set closes one hour before I get off work. I think I’ll need another bag or two but I was wondering could I use another brand (still unmodified).
I ask because I already have the voids filled in on the Ditra with Ditra-Set and I’m not sure how well another brand would bond to it. I would probably go with Mapei KeraBond or if I can find it at Lowes, Laticrete
Hey Lon,
Any other thinset will bond to it just fine. It’s the porous nature of the thinset into which the new stuff will bond, it’ll be fine with whichever you choose.
Thanks Roger
Hey Roger,
You mention a lot of great product suggestions for unmodified thinset, but how about modified? You said that you’ve finally caved and stopped using admix, so which brands/lines do you prefer for modified?
Thanks!
Hi Evan,
I need to do a post about that. My preferred is laticrete and I usually use 253 or 254. Both very good thinsets.
Hi Roger..Thanks for the help and advice. The thinset seems to have hardened. I used an epoxy grout as you suggested…and WHAT A PAIN! The grouted areas I was able to clean look amazing…but as it started to set up (too quickly) it became impossible to clean! So at 2am I finally gave up because I was just smearing around glue…now…how exactly to I get this stuff off both the porous porceline 12 inch tiles…and how do I get it off the glass tile border? I was at least able to shape the lines inbetween…but…the stuff is smeared into the pores on the large tiles…HELP! And thanks. I used Ceg-lite commercial epoxy grout.
Epoxy grout haze remover.
The thinset seems to be hardening. It has been cold and there is no heat in the house except for a small electric heater in the basement under the bathroom floor. Yesterday It seemed harder. Thanks for all your help! Now what is the best way to make the grout water resistant?
Oh, you didn’t say it was cold. I could have told you exactly why your thinset was doing that.
Cold slows down the chemical reaction (hydration) used to cure thinset. It can take up to ten times as long to cure.
The best way to make grout water resistant is to use epoxy grout. You can use SEVERAL layers of sealer, but that will not keep water out of the grout.