TileTips Newsletter

by Roger

Hey – Thanks!

You are now signed up to receive random (because that’s how my brain works) tile tips and super-secret ninja tricks for all your tile installation needs. Tile installation can be a fairly boring subject so I try to make it fun! So yes, ninja tricks. Who couldn’t use a little more ninja?

You will receive an email every time I sober up about twice a week with little tricks that I’ve learned over the past seventeen years and use, literally, daily. If you ever have any questions, comments, or simply want to rant about what a jackass I am please feel free to do so by emailing me at Roger@FloorElf.com.

If you ever get tired of the bi-weekly jackassery updates just click on the ‘unsubscribe’ link included in every one of my emails – it won’t hurt my feelings. And I don’t make you jump through hoops or try to get you to justify why you don’t wanna hear from me anymore, life is busy, I get it. Just click a button and you’re done. I tell you all this because I know you won’t want to unsubscribe – so there.

darren

you save my dogs no flame bursting thanks to water proofing info and the tips that came with it. I am finished, well almost. Few glitches along the way but worked thru everything. i finished finished caulking got the weep holes, two corner shelves, two soap dishes just need fixtures and oh xxxx i forgot the towel bar. ive got 2 ceramic towel bar ends and no cutouts to put them in and wife asking how im going to get them in, my bottle isnt that big. so i starting with the pouring, mixing and drink of my beverage while searching your site and web. what do you recommend to get the towel bar notches cut out with breaking the tile.
- Roger
  
  Hi Darren,
  
  Drill four holes, one in each corner, then use a dremel or rotozip to take the square out for the towel bar ends.
Allen Sheppard

What is the proper procedure for installing quarter round tiles at outside corners?
- Roger
  
  Hey Allen,
  
  Quarter round tiles is a very vague term. Do you mean the pencil rails that are half a circle, the hollow-backed half rounds or the hollow-backed quarter circles? I know which ones are *technically* quarter-rounds, but people call all of them that.
Viola DiLeo

I just had a new porcelain tile laid in my kitchen. I’ve had the tile man back because some tiles were raised some not (an up and down effect). I also told him there didn’t appear to be enough tile because 99% of the tiles are not flush with the grout. He only fixed the up and down tiles but I have a large floor and he said to replace all the grout would be a huge job. Now I have dirt traps because the grout is not flush with the tile. In reading some of the other people’s experiences I can’t add grout to what I have. I haven’t put the sealant on yet because it’s not been 72 hours. Is there an easy fix here? Where there’s no sealant and I do still have tile for grout to adhere to, can I grout on top of the newly laid grout?
- Roger
  
  Good morning Viola,
  
  I’ve already answer this exact question when you asked it yesterday morning here: http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-3#comment-8120. Same answer – even though it’s now Thursday.
Steve

Can I use Kerdi wall membrane in a shower pan – such as a Swanstone base? And if yes, do I run the Kerdi over the top of the shower base? Thanks,
- Roger
  
  Hi Steve,
  
  Do you mean install it directly to the swanstone? If so – no. It will not adhere long-term. The swanstone base would need to be removed and replaced with a regular mud deck or a schluter shower pan. If you just mean using it on the wall over the base then yes. Just run it down to the base and silicone the back of the membrane to the base.
Jason

Hey there Elfie!
ok, so it’s been a long night already… I am planning on installing smooth rock (on a 12×12 sheet) in a 5′ x 3′ custom shower… I’ve seen A LOT of grout? used in these showers and it looks like you have to clean each stone individually… Is this a DYI thing to do whose only done 12×12 tiling? Any hints to this install?
- Roger
  
  Hey Jason,
  
  No reason at all you can’t do it. Just take your time and get it right – be anal about it. Cleaning each stone individually? I suppose, if you consider that when grouting 12×12 tile you have to clean each tile individually. Same thing – the whole grouted installation gets cleaned at the same time. You may have to do some touch-up on individual stones, but it isn’t as tedious as all that would make it sound. If does use a LOT of grout, though.
  - Jason
    
    Thanks for the feedback, Elfie… I’m guessing I’ll be putting a lot of grout on top of the thinset because the stones will not match up like a normal 12×12… correct? Also, guessing I would use unsanded grout? Thanks for the reply!
    - Roger
      
      Yup, a lot of grout. A lot of SANDED grout – unsanded will shrink.
Justin

Hey Roger I hope all is well. I’m a do it yourselfer and in the process of laying tile in custom shower that I have framed and installed. All the tile work I have done before has been on floors. The first question I have is where should I start laying tiling? Floor, ceiling, or walls I believe the floor is last and the last question I have is I want to lay a diagonal/diamond pattern on the ceiling, should I start with a half tile in one corner or full tiles in the center of my ceiling? Any pointers would be great. Im using 6×6 on the walls and ceiling and 12×12 2×2 mats on the floor.
- Roger
  
  Hey Justin,
  
  I normally do the floor first, then stack the walls up from there up to the last row before the ceiling, install the ceiling, then finish the last wall row. When you do the ceiling begin with 1/2 tile on the outside line of your shower. That is, the line where the tile will end on the outside of the shower, start there and work back toward the back wall and make your cuts against the walls.
  - Justin
    
    Roger, when I start on the outside edge/line should the 1/2 tile be place in a corner or at the middle of the ceiling? Thanks man.
    - Roger
      
      I put the corner of a full tile on the center line and 1/2 tile on each side of that and continue to work toward the side walls.
      - Justin
        
        Roger, on the floor where is the best place to start? I’m using sheets of 2×2’s. Would I start at a corner or at the middle closet to the drain? Thanks!
        
        Roger
        
        Hey Justin,
        
        Start at the drain and center it in the tiles. Once you get a balanced look there work your way out toward the perimeter of the shower.
cindy

Roger,
Help please. The OSB that was installed they used a filler piece between two full sheets and for some reason it is just a tad lower than the two full sheets. Also put down the ditra but looking at it the next day I could see where the gray from the thinset wasn’t visible in some areas; so I pulled it all up. I’ve been scraping and sanding trying to get the waffles out ever since. Of course pieces of the OSB are also coming up. Could I put 1/4″ underlayment down over the top after I get the waffles out or is there some thing else I should do. I’m laying travertine and nervous.
- Roger
  
  Hi Cindy,
  
  Yes, you can use 1/4″ underlayment down over that BUT you need to have a minimum of 1 1/4″ of substrate beneath your ditra. Do you have two layers of osb? The floor needs to be sturdy enough to support your installation – especially with travertine.
  - cindy
    
    Hi Roger, I have 1″ plank boards then 5/8″ OSB. I also need to know what size trowel to use for the travertine.
    - Roger
      
      I normally use a 3/8″ x 3/8″ U-notch trowel for natural stone.
Gary

Hi Roger,
Can you give me any tips on weather there is ant “Graining” to be concerned with the products today? Whether I should be warry of not placing a tile in the right orientation?
Seems we should always work from many boxes.
Seems like the 12x 12 marble are something that comes to mind. Are there others?
Thanks,
Gary
- Roger
  
  Hey Gary,
  
  Any stone with heavy striations, such as heavily veined marble, onyx and some granites, look better when you pay close attention to the direction of the grain. There are also some manufactured porcelains and ceramics which are directional, most all of them have arrows on the back which should be pointed in the same direction. (Just because a tile has arrows does not necessarily mean it is directional, however).
Brooke

I’ve spent hours on this blog , outstanding site!! One thing I can t find though, do you have an area that talks about tile layout? I see lots of pics with various niches, etc but can’t find anything specific about layout. Maybe I missed it, wouldn’t be the first time I missed the obvious. I’m all about the flow and want to ensure I end up with a nice professional look. I’m using 12×12 tile around a new tub (30×60) and plan on tilling all the way to the ceiling with a niche that will either be 2, side by side or single (centered) opposite the faucet (the wife and I haven’t decided yet). I’ll adjust framing as needed within the non load bearing wall. I plan on an accent row about a third of the way above the tub (maybe 6 in or 12 in). If I end up with a partial tile row is it more appealing around the tub or at the ceiling? The tub isn’t installed yet so I have plenty of time to ensure I get a good pattern. I plan on using duroc and my thought was it may be easier to get the grout lines just right for the niche (and rough out) if I had a partial row along the tub.

Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
- Roger
  
  Hi Brooke,
  
  Hell, I don’t even spend that much time on here. I do not yet have specific posts about layout – it’s on the list – and it’s a long frickin’ list. With the 30×60 tub and 12×12 tiles you want to mark a level vertical center line up the back wall and center a tile on that. That will give you an even cut on both corners with a centered layout. With your side walls start with a full tile at the tub edge and make the back corner tile your cut tile. A cut or partial row always looks best at the tub rather than the ceiling, although it’s not always a viable option. You can visit my professional at TileArtCenter.com and take a look at the ‘gallery’ page – I have loads of photos on there. If you’re anything like me you only need a small little shelf for shampoo and a bar of soap. Your wife is gonna need the double-niche, and she’ll still put her razor and that fluffy plastic sponge thingy on your soap shelf.
  - Brooke
    
    Excellent, thanks for the reply. One more question; I’m redoing the floor too and pulled the old particle board underlayment and I’m building the floor back up for tile. Should I run the cement board under the new tub or install the tub on the new subfloor and run the cement board up to the tub? I was leaning towards running it under the tub.
    - Roger
      
      You can do whichever you want – no real right or wrong way.
dave

Roger –
I have a client who had an ‘artesian shower floor’ in his basement. Seriously, water was oozing up through the grout joint between wall & floor (I know, I know), and didn’t seem to stop even when the shower wasn’t being used. I had him quit using the shower, do a scrub/bleach/dry, and put a fan on it …..it just kept coming. After several trips over to look at it, I broke into the space behind the shower & found that a band clamp on the main 4″ stack had failed (it’d been put on waaay too tight) and kitchen sink drain water (they have a disposal too) had been running down the back side of the shower’s cement board, into the pan liner & soaking in to the mud bed….for quite some time. Mmmmmmmm!
So, client doesn’t want to tear out anything (of course not) – what would you suggest we try to sanitize this thing – beyond the 24 hour diluted bleach bath we’ve given it?
Thanks
- Roger
  
  Hey Dave,
  
  You could hang up a bunch of those little pine tree air-fresheners in the shower.
  
  That’s just nasty. Bleach would be about the only thing I could think of. Once he gets it dried out you may have him get a cleaning company in there to steam-clean it, then let it air out again. That may or may not take care of the odor. You and I both know the only absolute solution. Give that a shot – it’s the only thing I can think of. Oh – and the pine trees.
  - TomD
    
    Another idea is spray shellac; 3 or 4 coats seals a lot of stuff.
    - Roger
      
      I think the best solution would be to create a custom oak transition or a marble threshold which can be cut to a chamfer edge. 1″ is a very large transition to make. You can also bullnose the edge of the tile at the doorway which will at least round it off and ease it down. If you do end up with tile next to wood make sure you use silicone in that area rather than grout. The grout will just crack out.
debbie

what is the best way to tile the front of a tub, with or without an apron? any help would be greatly appreciated by my husband.
- Roger
  
  Hi Debbie,
  
  The tile on the front of a tub must be adhered to a substrate suitable for tile. Normally cement backerboard is installed to a frame in front of the tub. While you can build this frame over the front of a tub with an apron, ideally it should be utilized with a tub that does not have an apron.
  
  Who won the argument?
lorra

I am closing on a second floor condo at the end of the month.the HOA will allow us to install ceramic tile in the kitchen & entry.The only way we can do it in the living room is to submit a plan on a work sheet.We have to show the soundproofing we will use.This will be over concrete.Thought about Easymat,but that seems to be only a vapor barrier.Noble Sound Guard seems to be very expensive for 2 DIYers.Thought about cork rolls,have to find out more about that.Checked out Schluter Ditra,but not applicable.What would u use for sound abatement.What’s good for vapor, too?What do u glue the tiles to?
- Roger
  
  Hey Lorra,
  
  They’ll ‘let’ you install tile in your own house? That’s nice of ’em. You can use one product to do everything you need – including installing directly to the concrete. It’s Laticrete 125 sound and crack adhesive. Very, very good stuff. Not real cheap but for just that much tile it’ll be cheaper than sound guard. You can read all about it and get any data sheets or specs you need here: Laticrete 125 Sound and Crack Adhesive.
jerry

I soon will be installing the walls and ceiling of my shower…. any hints…
- Roger
  
  Hi Jerry,
  
  That is a very vague question. The best advice I can give you is research your methods, take your time, and come on back here with any specific questions you have. And have adult beverages handy throughout the process.
Karen

Someone up there must not want me to screw up my first bathroom remodel so they sent me to your website Roger! There seems to be conflicting pov’s on the web about vapor barriers in FL . I am creating a walk-in shower where the tub was and tiling 1/2 the wall and painting the other 1/2. Is there a standard height for the 1/2& 1/2? Do I vapor barrier all the walls? Is there a preferred method, kerdi over redguard? Do I use green board or drywall for the untiled walls including the ceiling or stick with hardie all over?
Thanks for your help.
- Roger
  
  Hi Karen,
  
  The have vapor barriers in Florida???
  
  If any wall is inside a shower it should have some form of water protection and be water-stable, which means it doesn’t shrink, swell or fall apart when wet. Cement backerboard with a vapor barrier fits those requirements, as does kerdi and redgard (two different versions of waterproofing). The advantage of simply using hardie with a vapor barrier throughout over any of the others is that the hardie can be textured and painted like normal drywall provided you use a primer on it. It will still be waterproof yet have the look you’re going for.
  
  As far as the info on the web – don’t get me started. If all your walls are waterproofed, painted or tiled, you won’t have any problems inside that shower no matter where you decide to make the transition from one covering to the other.
stefanie

i am so greatful that you bring humor to teaching, i took a tile course but dropped out halfway, because the teacher was a , he showed up very late or had us meet him at his outside worksites to be his flunky carrying all of his equipment and told us that being onsite at his jobs was the best way to learn. anyway i learned more from you reading in one evening than 9 weeks in his class. thankyou, and keep drinking the beer i mean the pepsi, it keeps things interested
- Roger
  
  Sounds like a real peach, this guy. I like taking tile courses, and arguing with the ‘instructors’. I’m a dick like that.
  
  Thanks for the kind words!
Tim

Roger,

I was reading and saw your comment, “There are several ways to get old adhesive off of concrete but to point you in the right direction I need to know what type of adhesive it is. What was previously installed? Was it tile or vinyl (or vinyl tiles). What color is the old adhesive? Yellow, white, gray, or (please don’t say black) Black and dark brown? The type of adhesive dictates the proper removal method.”

I am redoing my bathroom and pulled off old tile (1940’s??) and there is brown mostly black something holding the tile on. The tiles popped right off now the walls are exposed with this black rough feeling something that was behind the tiles, can I thin set on top of this and tile with new?

Thanks,
Tim
- Roger
  
  Hey Tim,
  
  If this black residue is on your shower walls it is likely old-school mastic. It was petroleum-based and turned black over time. You should be able to soak it down with water and scrape it off with a razor scraper. Get as much of it off as you can then yes, you can go over it with thinset and new tile provided the walls are still solid. If it was built in the 40’s I can nearly guarantee you they are. That’s when guys took pride in their art! You could probably place a pipe-bomb in that shower and it wouldn’t dent the walls.
Geoff Hazel

Have you ever used Wedi board? If so, did you get any of the gray sealant on your hands and figure out how to get the dry stuff off, short of letting it wear off in a week?
- Roger
  
  Hey Geoff,
  
  I have used wedi – and short of a belt sander I haven’t found anything to take that stuff off. It’s brutal, effective, though. And this comes from someone that scrubs his hands every day with a scotch-brite pad – seriously. (That doesn’t work either.) Sorry.
marilyn

had contractor do a bathroom for me not to crazy about the work can tile be lifted once dry and can a nitch be place in a completly tiled shower
- Roger
  
  Hey Marilyn,
  
  Yes tile can be removed but your substrate (whatever was used for your wall) will likely come with it if it was installed correctly. A niche can be placed into a completed shower but it needs to be placed between the wall studs so when you cut out the hole for the niche you need to make sure you are between two wall studs. You can use a grinder with a diamond cutting wheel to remove the tile for the niche.
jACKIE

i NEED TO KNOW IF SILICONE GROUT CAN BE USED BETWEEN TILE FLOORS AND WOOD BASEBOARDS.
- Roger
  
  Hi jACKIE,
  
  YES IT CAN. AND THANK YOU FOR SIGNING UP FOR TILETIPS!
Alice Davis-Rains

Can’t navigate your website. I click and the lower left says “Done” but nothing is happening. Any suggestions?

I’m a DIY learning about tiling.

What I need help with–I need info about getting old adhesives off concrete slab.
- Roger
  
  Hi Alice,
  
  I’m unsure why you are having problems, I’ve just tested everything and checked my servers and everything seems to be working fine. Sorry for the problems, the elves may have gotten drunk while I was working and started messin’ with stuff.
  
  There are several ways to get old adhesive off of concrete but to point you in the right direction I need to know what type of adhesive it is. What was previously installed? Was it tile or vinyl (or vinyl tiles). What color is the old adhesive? Yellow, white, gray, or (please don’t say black) Black and dark brown? The type of adhesive dictates the proper removal method.
Dave

Just found your site: “Brilliant” (in the voice of the guy on the Guinness commercial).

Glad to find someone with a photo gallery like mine (only bigger). I won’t feel so depressed anymore.
- Roger
  
  Hey Dave,
  
  Thanks for the kind words and for signing up! No need to feel depressed – the only ones that should feel that way are the jackasses that install the things in those photos.