You can now purchase Tile Tips all at once rather than waiting over six months for them! Just scroll down below the form and get it all now!
Over the past seventeen (almost eighteen it’s over twenty now! – damn I’m gettin’ old) years in the tile trade I have learned a couple of things:
1) People sometimes do not appreciate my sense of humor
2) I oftentimes think I’m funnier than I actually am
3) I sometimes end sentences with inappropriate auxiliary verbs (see above) or start them with a conjunction (see below)
4) And I’ve learned a thing or two about tile
Since the first three on the list are highly unlikely to change or help you I’d like to concentrate on the last – Tile Tips. Since you’re reading this I’m assuming one of two things: either you are interested in learning about tile or you enjoy really bad humor.
You’re in luck! I making both available in one little handy email format. Just sign up below with your name and email and whenever I sober up about twice a week you will receive a handy little tip, trick, or secret about tile installation. I’ll wrap these little tidbits up in really bad humor and shoot them right to your email so you can start your day off with either a chuckle and a helpful tip or one more person to hate.
These things help speed up your installation, make the installation easier and less stressful and help put professional touches on all the little things you may overlook. Things like how to eliminate grout haze, how to get dead-level and flat walls and how to eliminate hollow spots beneath your tile. I also include all the really important stuff that drives me absolutely insane(r) like how to keep your 5 gallon buckets from sticking together and how not to electrocute yourself with a drill while using your hole saw. Fun for the whole family!
This isn’t just for the DIY’ers out there, either. If you are a professional tile contractor it would absolutely benefit you to learn some of these little tricks that you may have just never run across. It’ll help keep your customers happy – that’s what we want, right? You can sign up too, I won’t give you any shit. Well, I might…
So how much is all this delicious jackassery?
It’s free. ‘Cause I’m just super-cool like that. 
Unless you want to buy them in the form of an ebook, if so just scroll down below the form. These will only be sent out once – not recycled like spam (the unwanted email – not the delicious breakfast pseudo-meat) so get yours now before I sober up long enough take enough time off work to make an ebook out of them and actually start charging people for stuff. Which I will do. Seriously. Get it now while it’s free.
I WANT IT NOW!!!
If you would prefer to simply purchase an ebook with 50 tile tips in it you’re in luck! You can do that now. Rather than waiting over six months for all this useless information you can now purchase all this useless information at once!
You can receive an immediate download link for a 90 page ebook in pdf format with 50 Tile Tips in it. You can get the same tips free, but they will be delivered to your email over the course of 6 months.
Entirely your choice.
Anyone who regularly reads my blog, my facebook, my twitter, or any of the other hundred places I’m lurking online, knows that I am an adamant supporter of Homes For Our Troops. So this is your chance to help out as well…
You can get all these tips for free – however, for every TileTips ebook purchased I will donate a portion of the sale to Homes For Our Troops!
Read all the details and go get it right here: Tile Tips of the Rich and Famous
Great website you are the tile king!!! Have a bit of a problem, I would like to install 2″ by 13″ curved trim pieces around my shower as a border. By curved I mean 1/4″ of useable base running up one side and down the other, kinda like half a circle if you get my lame explanation. The walls I think will stay when I stack them from the bottom up.Back to my bit of a problem.How do I get them on the ceiling. Seeing there’s not enough base area for proper suction to take place. I have foolishly told the wife that this would be no problem. Thinking I would find some sort of adhesive by then. I have found no adhesive and I’m starting to question my husbandly fast answer capability. W.W.R.D. Any and all answers will immediately become my ideas until the wife sees my email. At which point you will of course get all the accolades you so deserve and I will get, well I think you know what I will get..THE LOOK…(5/16″ porcelain tile) Thanks again for all you do Rodger for all of us.. Frank
Hey Frank,
Get a bag of non-sag mortar, it’s sticky stuff. If you can get a hold of some Laticrete 4XLT that tile will stay wherever you put it – whether you want it to or not.
Thanks Rodger…The hunt is on for Laticrete 4XLT
This is exactly what the homeowner needs, whether he is doing the project himself, or he has a contractor do. Thanks again!
Hi Roger,
Your site was very helpful for the recent bathroom reno we did, much thanks. Soon we’ll be taking on our main bathroom, which is larger. I’m trying to plan ahead and figure the larger floor tiling may take me more than a day to complete. If so, do you have any advice for stopping a tile job mid-way? I want to make sure the line where I stop and start makes a firm bond and doesn’t crack later. Any suggestions you have would be most welcome.
Thanks, and keep up the great work!
RC
Hey RC,
There is a natural break in a tile installation at the grout lines. Each tile is independent of any tiles around it concerning a solid installation to the substrate. That means you can stop the installation absolutely anywhere you want to and come back to finish it up with no problems at all. You don’t want to do that with grout since it is all interconnected, but the setting aspect makes no difference at all.
Aloha Roger,
Thank you so much for your time typing and explaining how to install ceiling tile. I am doing our shower and management (the wife) thought it would be good if we (me) tiled the ceiling. I am now ready to attempt it after reading your suggetions/instructions. Also, Your humor rocks! Thanks…
Thanks Andy! Glad I could help. Make sure the management gives you a nice six-pack bonus for your tenacity.
Thanks you for the helpful tips and insights.
Hi Roger,
Thanks so much for all your help and tips. We are developing our basement, and have paid contractors to drywall, mud and tape the basement for us. We have Dens Armour drywall in the shower, and are wanting to tile ourselves. I just want to clarify with you to ensure I have all the steps right … basically now I would use Redguard product and apply it (with a paint brush or roller would you recommend? how many coats?) … then you would recommend us to use a powdered thinset to apply the tiles. We are using 13×13 tiles, what size of trowel would you recommend and what size of spacers? When applying the tiles (of course after measuring to make a perfect fit) do you typically start from the bottom and work your way up? Any sort of a pattern (I know on youtube one man said to use a staircase pattern and another said to lay the bottom row, and let cure for 24 hours before applying the second row) … also, we are wanting to tile the roof as we have a “rain shower” set up … would you recommend using a fast dry motar? what product would you recommend? … will we have to hold each individual tile to let it dry? Have you seen this done?
Megan
Thank you so much for your time, your blog has helped me so much already.
Hi Megan,
Without sounding like an ass (which rarely works for me
) if you read around my site for a bit most of your questions are answered such as this: How to install tile on a shower ceiling or this: How to install redgard I normally use a 3/8″ square-notch trowel for most of my tile. I start from the bottom and work up, but everyone does it differently. I normally apply three coats of redgard with a thick nap roller (brush all the corners). No need to use a fast dry mortar for the ceiling, the correct technique works with unmodified mortar if need be. I just installed 24×24 inch tiles on a ceiling with unmodified, and none of them fell on my head nor did I have to hold them up for 24 hours. 
Thanks so much Roger, oh you are so right … your site is the best and it really has everything! Sooooo glad I found you!
Hey Roger, I’m still plugging away at it. I’m starting with tile on the shower floor first then will do walls, then rest of floor. Ive got a question about the tile on the shower floor. Old house, walls are not square. Im laying 2×2 tiles for the floor w 1/8 spacers. my problem is if i do a dry layout from the most square corner and lay out, i get two thin pizza slice lines going down two of the walls as far as space is concerned. So one bad wall goes from 1 15/16in down to 3/8in of open space. and the other goes from 1 1/4in down to perfect. I hope thats clear. Whats my best bet for those two sides? Do i shift the whole floor and try to balance the openings on the edges and have larger grout lines, or try and cut some tyle to fill in there? (not sure if those areas are worth trying to snip tile that small) Also wondering if the saying that you use the same trowel size as your spacers is correct? I’m using 1/8in spacers do i need 1/8 trowel or will 1/4 work?
Appreciative DIY’er,
Kreston
Hey Kreston,
Shift your entire layout 1/2 (1″) tile over one way or the other and you should have decent size cuts down both walls. You can have about 1/4″ open space if you need – your wall tile will cover it. Your trowel size has nothing to do with your spacer size or grout lines – it’s dependent on the tile. 1/4″ trowel will work fine for 2×2’s.
Is there a product, possibly a floor leveler or filler that can be applied to a cement floor before laying title. The floor has a crack and I also want to make sure the floor is level before laying title.
Thanks,
Sherry
Hi Sherry,
Any SLC (self-leveling cement) will flatten out that floor very nicely for you. Make sure you get the primer with the SLC so it adheres to the concrete correctly.
Hello,
Just found your site while looking for info on whether or not to put mortar under my backerboard floor. I really enjoy the helpful tips and the humor
Thank you!
Chas.
Hey Chas,
Glad you found me! I’ve been looking for me for over 40 years.
Roger,
Enjoyed reading your posts here. I am a plumber by trade and have a couple questions for ya.
I am in the process of building an addition on my ranch house adding a master suite including a master bath. The builder used Fiberock Aqua-Tough Tile Backerboard manufactured by USG for the walls and ceiling in the shower. Floor is a 72″ x 42″ acrylic pan. I am installing the tile myself (not my first tile job) using 9″ x 12″ for the field with some mosaics here and there.
Question #1: What is the best material to seal the joints of the fiberock with?
Question #2: This rock has a membrane on it already, is it overkill to cover the entire surround with liquid membrane?
Question #3: Is the Redgard or Lacticrete you speak of compatible with Fiberock?
Question #4: We installed an 18″ deep x 38″ wide seat on one side of the pan. What is the best method of waterproofing the seat as well as a couple niche’s I want to install?
Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated….I’m gonna go have a beer now!
Thanks,
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Fiberock panels are handled just like any other cement backerboard – it is not waterPROOF. You do need to waterproof your installation with either a moisture barrier behind it or a membrane over the face of it (liquid membrane). Tape the seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape and thinset. Redgard or any Laticrete liquid membrane are all compatible with fiberock. Liquid membrane is the best way to waterproof any benches or niches you place in your shower.
Go have another beer.
PERFECT! Thanks for the quick response Roger. I will definitely use the RedGuard product. When installing the wall tile on top of the RedGuard, is a premixed mastic okay or should I use thinset?
Thanks!!!
Jeff
Hey Jeff,
Use powdered thinset you mix with water. Never, ever use a premixed product over a topical membrane, and I always tell people never to use it in a shower.
We are building a new home. We have a big master bath disaster with our new installed tile. The grout in the shower and bathroom floor is approximately 3/16 ” wide. The top of the grout leaves an approximately 1/8″ deep groove. With our square edged tile (no radiius) this creates a deep groove in the floor to catch dirt, pieces of sponge etc. Our tile person says this is standard but we cannot imagine living with this. Shouldn’t the grout come up flush with the top of the tile since there is no radius on our tile. It actually looks like he took a tool and scraped the grout out because you can see about 1/8″ on each side of the tile’s edges of grout line. This creates sharp edges that can possibly cut your foot or hand if you rubbed over it.
He also used the wrong color of grout. He wants to use a stain sealer to correct the color but he says it still will have the groove that we do not want. The grout color is a dark shade that needs to be much much lighter inside the shower and on the floor of the bathroom.
We have been told that with the 3/16th grout line and porcelain tile makes it difficult to grind out the existing grout. They are saying the tile will be chipped trying to grind the grout out.
Is there a solution? Do we dare use a epoxy or acrylic grout of proper color and grout over the existing grout. it will have an 1/8 contact with existing tile edge. We want the grout flush with the top of the tile. Everything we read says it will crack and not last.
Note that this tile has been in place about three weeks and it is a sand based grout.
Hi Jim,
I’m gonna get a bit brash, so strap in.
Is sounds as if you have rectified porcelain (square edge) which is normally installed with smaller grout lines, like 1/8″. It can be installed with 3/16″, no problem, it’s just not normal. The reason they are normally installed with smaller grout lines, and the reason they have a square edge, is so that you can have a nice, flush, flat grout line. Make sense?
The fact that he installed it with 3/16″ grout lines irritates me – even though it isn’t my bathroom.
A GROUT LINE SHOULD BE AS FLUSH AS IT CAN POSSIBLY BE! With most tile (tiny radius on the edges) there will be a slight dip, that’s normal, but when I say slight I mean dropping 1/32″. A 1/8″ dip in your grout line is unacceptable unless you have saltillo (old mexican-style tiles), with rectified porcelain it’s blasphemy. NONE OF THE SIDES OF YOUR TILE SHOULD BE VISIBLE! Ever. It is likely he ‘tooled’ the lines – that’s completely normal as well, just not to that extent.
The fact that there is a 3/16″ grout line actually makes it EASIER to grind out the grout, as does the fact that it is porcelain – it’s more dense and harder to chip. I’m sure tile will be chipped by someone that doesn’t know what they’re doing.
Anything you attempt to install over the top of that current grout will not last – epoxy included. It would all be dependent upon the stability of that grout – how much do you trust it? I don’t.
The only viable solution for a proper looking installation (short of tearing it out and starting over correctly, of course
) would be to have the current grout removed and have it grouted correctly – with the right color. If he doesn’t feel comfortable doing it, perhaps you need to find someone who does. To be perfectly honest if I HAD to remove grout and replace it from any type and size of tile installation – yours would be the one I would choose. Porcelain (harder to chip) with large grout lines that are not flush with the top. This would mean that while removing the grout you technically don’t even need to touch the top edges of the tile – only where the grout starts below it. It really would be the ideal installation for grout removal if it HAD to be done.
Sorry, I’m just full of bad news tonight.
Hi Jim,
I’m gonna get a bit brash, so strap in.
Is sounds as if you have rectified porcelain (square edge) which is normally installed with smaller grout lines, like 1/8″. It can be installed with 3/16″, no problem, it’s just not normal. The reason they are normally installed with smaller grout lines, and the reason they have a square edge, is so that you can have a nice, flush, flat grout line. Make sense?
The fact that he installed it with 3/16″ grout lines irritates me – even though it isn’t my bathroom.
A GROUT LINE SHOULD BE AS FLUSH AS IT CAN POSSIBLY BE! With most tile (tiny radius on the edges) there will be a slight dip, that’s normal, but when I say slight I mean dropping 1/32″. A 1/8″ dip in your grout line is unacceptable unless you have saltillo (old mexican-style tiles), with rectified porcelain it’s blasphemy. NONE OF THE SIDES OF YOUR TILE SHOULD BE VISIBLE! Ever. It is likely he ‘tooled’ the lines – that’s completely normal as well, just not to that extent.
The fact that there is a 3/16″ grout line actually makes it EASIER to grind out the grout, as does the fact that it is porcelain – it’s more dense and harder to chip. I’m sure tile will be chipped by someone that doesn’t know what they’re doing.
Anything you attempt to install over the top of that current grout will not last – epoxy included. It would all be dependent upon the stability of that grout – how much do you trust it? I don’t.
The only viable solution for a proper looking installation (short of tearing it out and starting over correctly, of course
) would be to have the current grout removed and have it grouted correctly – with the right color. If he doesn’t feel comfortable doing it, perhaps you need to find someone who does. To be perfectly honest if I HAD to remove grout and replace it from any type and size of tile installation – yours would be the one I would choose. Porcelain (harder to chip) with large grout lines that are not flush with the top. This would mean that while removing the grout you technically don’t even need to touch the top edges of the tile – only where the grout starts below it. It really would be the ideal installation for grout removal if it HAD to be done.
Sorry, I’m just full of bad news tonight.
Hi Roger ,
If you were caulking a shower what would be your preferred product(ex.accu–laticile?)
for shower floor and wall transition?
Thank you,
Dick
You should know by now I’m a Laticrete whore.
I prefer Latasil but the Tec brand colored silicone is very good also.
Roger:
I have just completed hanging backerboard in my walk-in shower. I used a scoring tool to cut the pieces to size. I have an older home and the walls are not plumb or square in places, so I have some gaps between pieces. Also, some of the backerboard screws went in deeper in places. I would like to fill in these areas before I apply two coats of Redguard. I also have a couple of corners on the backerboard that have cracked a little. How should I fill in these areas before proceeding?
Thanks in advance for your advise.
Hey Ken,
Just use regular thinset to repair all those areas. After it cures you can redgard right over it.
Im trying to subscribe but no ways
Hey Johan,
Not sure what the problem was with the two boxes above but I have you signed up and you should be receiving them shortly. If there are any more problems please let me know.
Hi Roger, I just ordered your tips. Thanks for the tons of help you’ve put on here.
When finishing around the doorway butting up to the hardwood floor, I will be dealing with a ripped edge of tile. In its original form the ceremic tile is 5/16 inch thick with a gradual eased/rounded edge that tapers down to 1/4 inch, or less, in about 1/2 inch. How do you round that cut edge over to match the factory edge?
If I’ve missed that tip somewhere, just yell at me to go look where it is.
Thanks.
Hey Todd,
There is no way to get a cut tile edge on ceramic to look like a factory edge with that type of tile. The best you can do is use a ‘rubbing stone’ to hone down the edge a bit so it isn’t sharp or jagged. You can also start at the doorway with a full tile and cut tiles in the back of the room (unless there isn’t a wall opposite the door, which is likely the case).
We have removed a fiberglass tub/shower unit and have built a walk in shower on a concrete slab. The drain and vinyl membrane liner were installed by a licensed plumber. The floor has been built up and sloped properly.
Question: Three walls are studs with Hardee board applied over the membrane liner. The other wall is a cement/cinder block wall which also contains the walk through door way. How do we attach the membrane on this wall so we can then install our tile over it?
I appreciate any advise for this.
Steve
Hey Steve,
You need to either bump out those walls with furring strips, membrane, then hardi, or use a topical membrane such as kerdi or redgard on it.
Does your membrane on the floor have a slope beneath it? Or is it flat on the floor with just a single slope installed on top of it? You did not mention a pre-slope.
I am now confused a bit. In this article for a steamshower you say to add plastic to the studs the hardi or wonderboard then redguard to entire surface.
Would this be the same with a regular shower. We have corresponded and from my interpretation I have gathered no plastic hardi board then thinset with tape on joints redgurd joints but not entire surface?
I do not know how you do this but your site is the best and I have confidence in your answers.
Hey Dick,
A steam shower is an ENTIRELY different construction and installation method than a normal shower. For your shower you do not want both the barrier and the redgard in there – in a steam shower it’s required. But with a steam shower the concern is water vapor – not water itself. Vapor penetrates almost everything, no matter how thick. You are controlling a completely different form of water in a steam shower.
Can you please help me with my newly installed light brown grout which is currently white. It was grouted yesterday. I sponge cleaned and dried with a towel. The tile itself looks great now, but the grout is definitely too light. I understand from reading your site that it takes up to 28 days to actually cure. Will the grout color change after it has completely cured. If no, what do I need to do?
Hi Terri,
The ‘white’ on your grout is likely efflorescence deriving from using too much water, or having the sponge or grout too wet, when cleaning while grouting. It’s from minerals left over after the water evaporates off the surface. Try to scratch down a little bit with your fingernail and see if it is darker beneath the very top layer. If so you may be able to clean it off with a grout – haze remover or use a drywall sanding sponge and very lightly remove the very top layer of efflorescence to get to your correct grout color. It will not change color after 28 days.
I’m am in the process if tiling my shower, I installed durock on side walls, still have sheet rock on ceiling. What I am reading is do not use tile adhesive in shower use thinset (where it gets wet). I am considering tiling the ceiling with same 3×6 subway tiles. Do I have to add durock on ceiling and also use thinset? Or can I use Adhesive over sheetrock or thinset over sheetrock? What do you recommend. thx
Hey Lou,
The best option would be thinset on durock for your ceiling. The second choice would be thinset on the sheetrock provided it is a regular, open shower at the top and not anything like a steam shower or enclosed at the top with a header. Adhesive may re-emulsify when exposed to moisture – this includes water vapor and steam as well as plain old water. The steam from a regular shower may cause this and you really don’t wanna be wearing a hard hat in the shower.
What type of grout should I use in a shower….epoxy or cementitious? I will be using a Laticrete products. Thanks
Hey John,
Epoxy is always the better, more durable choice. Either one will work fine but with the epoxy you get the added advantage of extreme stain-resistance – makes it easy to clean. The biggest reason people don’t choose epoxy is simply the price. Laticrete SpectraLOCK is great stuff, though, so if you can do that it would be best.
@John G,
Whatever you do don’t use Bostik TruColor PreMixed grout in a shower. It’s bad juju
Tony, Roger,
Why not use TruColor on a shower?
2 years ago I used it for a 700 square foot natural slate floor tiling job in a cabin 7000 feet in the Sierra Nevada’s. It is a sub floor installation over ditra. It is still in perfect shape with no cracks anywhere. Keep in mind these are homes that move when snow loaded in strange ways like I move when slightly loaded. (California does have some realy good red wine.)
My next project in a couple weeks, is a walk in shower using the same stone over kerdi. I was planning on using the TruColor urethane grout because it has worked so well on the floor even at “change of plane” at the baseboards.
But before I use it to grout a shower I would really appreciate your opinion on this Bostik product. It is rather expensive but we spare no expense on tiling jobs in the mountains up here. If not, “it will and does crack”.
Roger, thanks for the sage advise and humor.
I used the Trucolor on a project only once and per the customers request. Installed fine and was easy to work with. Problem was the grout never really set up in the shower. The shower was grouted and then not used for 7 days, plenty of time to dry. Anyway, got a call back about 4 weeks later. Customer said little bits of grout were coming out of the floor in the shower, and he had replaced the holes with more grout, but it kept happening. I go to vcheck the job out and the grout seemed to be washing out. I got out my grout scraper and 90% of the grout came out like wet sand. I removed all the grout and replaced it with a portland cement based grout and it has been fine. The Trucolor seemed to be fine on the walls and bathroom floor, but the shower floor that got all the water did not hold up.
Hello Roger,
I’ve really enjoyed reading articles and your strong believes , technics , tips , etc. . However I believe , don’t get me wrong , it is probably more detrimental than helpful to give all these informations to everyone , especially DIYs.
Personnaly , I like to help people and answering to requests is very rewarding , but giving step by step , best tricks and tips about how things should be done , even thow I do not agree with all of them , will give a powerful tool to DIYs and mostly to the ” experienced handyman ” which seem to be increasing by the hour. Are we doing the right move ?
It may look perfect in the short run , but we may just become tools pretty soon. Anyway , the manufacturers provide all the informations to anyone . The only way to interpret them right are us , the tile and stone installers … and of course there are some pretty bad ones out there .
I can say , looking at your decription , I see myself , without having your ability in writing , so I will limit some comments and I will keep it simple.
That’s it for now , but I will for sure come back with other comments .
Cheers
Hey Roberto,
I don’t believe it to be detrimental at all. I actually started this site to let people realize the 90% of the stuff they read online about how to install tile is absolute crap. I simply give out good, correct information which is based on standards set forth by the TCNA, what they choose to do with it is entirely up to them.
I find that this site actually educates people a lot more about why they need to thoroughly check out anyone they plan on hiring for their installation. If someone doesn’t know the standards they have no business building showers – period. It also makes a great many of them realize that it may be above their skill level and actually seek out a professional – one who knows what he or she is doing. (Yes, I know several professional female tile contractors – they’re all awesome!)
Of course you’re not going to agree with everything – we’re professionals.
Each of us has our own way of doing things – that actually leads to better knowledge and education about the field of tile installation. There are several ways to do nearly everything, this site is simply how I do them.
I’ve learned a ton of tips in the last 24 hours since I ran across your site. Was happy to see that I was doing many things right, and a few things wrong (*cough*preslope*cough*). Anyway the boss is bidding a basement remod and they want a steam shower. I’ve been reading up on some info, but wondering if you had any tips on waterproofing the walls and ceiling. The boss is suggesting simply cement boarding the whole thing and then redguard the hell out of it. Haven’t read up to see if that stuff is suitable for steam rooms yet. Any idea?
Thanks!
Tony, semi-pro-but-learning tile guy
Hey Tony,
You’ve been reading my site for 24 hours??? Jesus, I don’t even read it that much and I’m a narcissistic bastard.
(That preslope’s a bitch, huh? Don’t feel bad, most everyone started without knowing about them.)
Redgard is approved for steam showers. With steam shower applications you want to be concerned about the vapor permeability rating of your waterproofing application. That’s just a pinkie-in-the-air way to say how much water, in vapor form (steam) will get through it. The magic number is a vapor permeability rating of 1 or less. Redgard has that.
With a steam shower there needs to be a vapor barrier behind the cement board also! I know, I know. I don’t write the specs, I just pass along the confusing info. So with cement board you want a 4-6 mil thick plastic over all the wall and ceiling framing, then your cement board, then the redgard. You also need to ensure that the redgard is thick enough (about as thick as a credit card) to achieve that perm rating of less than one.
All walls and the ceiling also need insulation. This reduces the heat-loss demand on the steam generator. This is true whether or not it has any exterior walls.
Redgard the hell out of it sounds about thick enough.
Keep on learning! Fight the power of the hack.
LOL…I just about choked on my breakfast from laughing. Looking forward to more fun via email.
Hiya Sadie,
Don’t choke! Felonious misuse of a perfectly good waffle!
*This comment brought to you by the National Heimlich Abusers Council (N-HAC)
Hi, I’ve been reading your discription on installing the redguard shower product. I will be using this as a coat over the wonder board. Is it no problem to use the standard tile adhesive over the Redguard for holding the tiles to the wall. Also can i use a standard drywall primer to coat the wonderboard.
Thanks, Greg
Hi Greg,
Regular thinset (not mastic) is absolutely no problem. It will hold your tile just fine over redgard. You can use standard drywall primer over the wonderboard before your redgard, it’ll work just fine.
Just wanted to Thank You for the help I received from your web site . Actually it was more than help, it was a step by step lesson I followed when I built my 1st mud base shower pan.
I spent a looong time researching information and had been given inaccurate info from various sources. (even local professional remodelers). Your site left no question unanswered!
It actually took away the “fear” I had worrying about having to tear the thing back down for some stupid mistake. So many little things that could present future problems were covered on your site. I especially remember the statement,,” you could build your shower curb out of paper mache if you want because if it’s done right, it should never get wet!”.
……..and “they ” say…”nothing is free in life”… Thanks Again. Charlie
Hey Charlie,
Thanks for the kind words! I love it when people actually recognize common sense and utilize it.
The amount of inaccurate information on the internet is exactly why I started this site. I’m glad I could help!