How they work
Sealers, I’ve discovered since starting this site, are one of the most misunderstood products used for tile and stone. There are so many different brands, types and uses that it’s difficult to figure out what you actually need for your particular installation. So I’m gonna try to clear some of that up for you.
This will only cover a very small portion of the entire market for this type of product. I’m going to explain the different basic types of sealers and how they work, as well as the proper use for most common installations. This is NOT an all-encompassing article and will not include every scenario and installation. It is only a basic instruction on different types and uses.
Be sure to research any specific product you choose to utilize and always – ALWAYS – test the product first on a spare piece of your tile or stone to ensure you will not run into any incompatibility issues.
As with any product recommendation around here all opinions are mine and mine only, you will have your own and others may have different ones. I use what I know works for me – your installation may require something different. It is impossible for me to cover every scenario – so I won’t try. Feel free, however, to ask any questions and I’ll do my best to give you an accurate answer.
The above is something I feel necessary to state because we are playing with chemicals here, potentially dangerous stuff if misused. So drink AFTER you play with the chemicals – mmm’kay? (Beer or adult beverages – never drink the sealers, even when you’re done…)
What is a sealer?
I think a large part of the misunderstanding stems from the name of the product itself – sealer. People see the word sealer and assume it can be used to waterproof tile and stone – why use waterproofing substrates? If my shower is leaking can’t I just soak the tile with sealer and fix it?
No. And don’t laugh – I get those questions weekly. Sealer is not manufactured to waterproof. It does not make your tile or stone waterproof. It WILL, to an extent, make it water-resistant, but not waterproof.
Sealer is manufactured to prevent staining agents from entering the pores of the tile or stone. That’s it. It prevents staining and helps make your installation much easier to clean. Cherry Kool-Aid? It can help with that (even though it’s made with toxic waste).
It does this by entering the open pores of the tile or stone (where there would otherwise be the cherry stuff) and, once cured, forms a seal in those pores to prevent anything else from entering them.
Sounds simple enough, right? It is. Well, it is once you understand how they work.
Coatings and Sealers
There are two types of ‘sealers’ commonly sold. One is a topical sealer, which is technically not a sealer – it’s a coating, and the other is a penetrating, or impregnating, sealer.
A topical sealer, or coating, sits on top of the tile or stone and blocks all the nasty stuff by forming a shield, of sorts, over the face of the tile.
I do not like coatings.
Coatings wear unevenly. It will wear more in the traffic lanes, where you walk, and dissipate and eventually be gone. Once this happens you must strip the entire installation and install a new layer. You cannot simply reapply more of this sealer to the areas in which it has worn out. It is also not as effective, in my opinion, as a penetrating sealer.
A coating sealer is normally used on natural clay tiles such as Saltillo and Mexican pavers.
A penetrating, or impregnating, sealer on the other hand, actually enters the pores of the stone and, once cured, will not change the look of the tile or stone. It is specifically made to not alter the look of your installation while still protecting it.
It can be spot sealed, which means you can apply more to only one specific area without worry. To reseal or apply more you do not need to strip the existing sealer. It’s a better option and the one that should be used in most residential installations.
Carriers
In order to get the chemicals into the pores there must be what is called a carrier attached to the sealer. This allows the silicone or fluoropolymers (I’ll cover these in a moment) to penetrate the pores of the stone and cure below the surface to allow better resistance to staining. The deeper the penetration the better the protection.
There are two types of carrier: water or solvent. So your sealer will be either water-based or solvent-based. Solvent-based sealers will penetrate deeper into the tile or stone.
Solvent molecular structures are smaller than water molecules. It’s that simple. When using a sealer the carrier carries it into the pores then dissipates leaving behind the protection layer.
So you must take into consideration the penetrating power of the sealer as well as the dissipation rate (water evaporates more slowly) which can be affected by temperature and humidity factors. Water-based sealers have a limited window of temperature with which they can be used – solvents have a much larger window.
It is my opinion that a solvent-based sealer is normally always the best option. Which brings us to the part everyone freaks out about…
VOC’s
VOC stands for volatile organic compound. They are organic chemicals with a high vapor pressure. This simply means that they cause large numbers of molecules to be released into the air (vapors) as it dissipates or evaporates. Research indicates that VOC’s will negatively affect the ozone layer. I’m sure everyone has heard of VOC’s.
One highly misunderstood (or ignored) fact is that VOC’s only react with the ozone. They do NOT negatively affect your skin, health, breathing, etc. over the long-term. You will smell it for a while before it dissipates, and it can cause you discomfort, dizziness, etc. It’s meant to, it tells you to get away from it until it dissipates. But long-term effects from short-term exposure do not exist. It is temporary.
Certain chemicals in any sealer may negatively affect these things (read the msds and product sheets), but VOC’s ONLY affect the ozone layer, that’s it. Always wear a mask and gloves when handling these chemicals! But again, it is not a permanent condition.
VOC does not equal toxicity! If something has a higher VOC count that only means that it interacts with the ozone more than a product with low VOC. It has nothing to do with your health, air quality in your home, etc. Again! Individual ingredients in a product may have these effects, the fact that a product has VOC’s does not indicate that it will. Water-based sealers also contain VOC’s, just less of them than a solvent-based sealer.
Once the sealer cures these VOC’s no longer exist! They do not continue to ‘off-gas’ as some stones do, which you may have read about, nor do they continue to dissipate forever. Once it’s cured they’re gone.
This is a subject for a different post, I just want to make sure you don’t associate VOC count with any type of negative health effect or home air quality. I point this out because a lot of solvent-based sealers may have higher VOC counts than water-based or a lower quality solvent-based sealer. It will not negatively affect your health or home. Again, read the msds sheets and product literature.
I’m unsure how to word this exactly to get my point across. It will smell, it will make you dizzy if you inhale enough of it. But these conditions are temporary and do not lead to long-term effects. Again, VOC does not equal toxicity.
Protection sources
Protection sources are the base product in the sealer – what the carriers are carrying. The base protection source will determine what the sealer will protect against. There are two different main sources – silicone and fluoropolymers.
Silicones protect and seal against water-based staining agents – the aforementioned cherry Kool-Aid, for example, coffee, tea, etc.. It is just like the silicone in the tubes you use to seal your corners – same principle.
They will not completely prevent absorption into the surface! They will, however, slow the absorption enough that you can get it cleaned up without staining the stone in a reasonable amount of time. Silicone sourced sealers are a base sealer to prevent regular water-based stains on your tile or stone (or grout).
Fluoropolymer protection sources protect and seal against oil-based staining agents like, well, oil. Cooking oils, body oils, shampoos, etc. It is, in my opinion, the best option for most residential applications.
All fluoropolymer sourced sealers, to my knowledge, are solvent-based. Fluoropolymer sealers also have limited water-based stain repellent properties, they will repel water-based stains as well as oil-based. Not as effectively as silicone sourced sealers, but to some extent.
Bored yet?
So to wrap-up a bit, the sealer you choose must match your installation requirements. This is why it’s difficult for me to give a general answer to “what sealer should I use?” It depends on what you need your sealer to do.
For most residential applications, which is what I do, I use a penetrating solvent-based fluoropolymer sealer. Depending on the particular type of tile or stone I’ll normally use Miracle Sealant’s 511 Impregnator or Miracle Sealant’s porous plus.
If you read anything on my site you’ll get the feeling that I’m a die-hard Laticrete fan. That’s accurate. I’m just as zealous about Miracle Sealant’s sealing and care products. I think they’re superb! (Did I really just type ‘superb’??? I need a beer Pepsi…)
So which of those should you use with what types of tile or stone? That is the subject of my next post, I’ve already bored you enough with this one. Next time we’ll cover more in-depth uses and needs as well as what works with which tile.
Go get a drink – you need it.




Hello, Can I seal my tile and grout at the same time?
I should let you know it is a porcelain tile….
Hi Melissa,
Yes you can.
Hello, we are installing a new countertop with granite tiles I bought from Home Depot. They only had one style of tile in the store. We asked the sales woman if this tile could be used for countertops. She said yes. As I have been reading about the installation process I read something that concerned me. The tiles that I bought have tiny pinholes in them and some small holes some of which are a quarter inch in size. Mostly pinholes. Can we use this tile? Will impregnator fill the pinholes and small holes? Should I use something else to repair the holes? I am hoping that I didn’t buy useless tiles. They had nothing else for me to compare to. I thought the sealer was suppose to fix the problem. Thank you for your help.
Hi Christine,
If it is granite it should not have holes in the surface of ANY size. You can fill those with grout and seal it, but I would not do that on a countertop. I would return them and find some real granite somewhere else.
I installed travertine shower walls (wish I had known better)…. the shower floor is a ceramic tile mosaic…. Should I use a sealer on the travertine shower walls? I am worried about them not being water proof and am reading that the sealants are not waterproof…. I am concerned and have spent a mint replacing this shower already… In hindsight, I would have chosen a waterproof ceramic.
What is the best thing to do…. seal them, not seal them, use a solvent based sealant…do not use a solvent based sealant… if you recommend sealing the tile…. what sealant do you recommend?
Hi Rochelle,
Tile and stone are not waterproof. The waterproof aspect of any shower lies in the substrate behind the tile. Yes, you should seal it, but you should have a waterproof shower before a box of tile is even opened.
hi roger
so its a natural stone roof patio and I need it to be as water proof as possible, and prevent this florescent material from drilling out with water on balcony
thanks
Hi Shaun
I have a natural stone tile about 1 inch thick installed on top of a townhouse roof deck over a roof membrane which is probably not a good idea
there were some very small leaks in room below with extreme south florida rain
new place for me ,, bigger problem there is florescence type of material dripping out and down the balcony from over time looks like inside a cave etc
my plan is to pressure clean , let dry a few days and seal as neighbors have done with good results
what type of sealer do you recommend
1 clean
2 dry
3 grout what type ?
4 seal ? 2 coats what type
thanks !!!
I had good results with Drytreat 40SK
I dipped sealed my pavers and so far 2 years no issues.
I also top coated with Drytreat Meta Creme as it only needed 1 heavy coat. I let it soak in for about 1 hr and buffed it off. Sealed the grout too all in one coat.
Joseph is right, drytreat is good stuff. But it still depends on the type of stone.
sorry i mean hello roger
No worries, I’ve been called worse.
Hi Scott,
Sealing your tile will not stop the leak. It will slow it, and may do so enough to not be a noticeable problem, but it won’t solve it. The sealer depends on the particular type of stone – you didn’t mention what type of stone it is. It makes a difference.
thanks roger
its some type of porus stone, I will have to find out
is there a way to post a picture ?
thanks for the help
this is what I understand : from reading your info
clean
seal with solvent based impregnating sealer
then grout
then seal again
That is correct.
Hi Roger
I have a new slate floor and according to the person doing it the epoxy grout is eating the sealer?
What is he doing wrong and what can i do to complete it???
Same answer.
Hi Roger
I have a new slate floor and the epoxy grout is eating the sealer what am i doing wrong???
Hi Shaun,
Epoxy grout does not ‘eat’ sealer. It may remove the top layer of it from abrasion, but it doesn’t eat it or disintegrate it in any manner. What brand of sealer and epoxy grout?
eI live in Costa Rica, have saltillo tile floors, originally sealed with Sur Hydrostop, a silicone resin based water repellent….smells a lot like kerosene. Now 3 years later it looks pretty dingy, it always did actually, I’d like to seal it with something semi gloss or matte….it looks much better while its’ still wet from washing so I’d like this type finish.
I dont think they sell any specific saltillo sealers here, what could I use that they may sell for other applications? thanks for your time, Steve
Hi Steve,
I don’t know that much about other products to seal saltillo, so I can’t really venture a guess as to what would work for you. Would it be possible to order something online for it? I would strongly suggest finding some way to get a saltillo-specific sealer.
recently had a tile floor put in i bought a mosaic separate to have put in center of floor …iv noticed the the small tiles along the edges are sinking, i called the installer back never returned my call? Can i fix this? Please help
Hi Christine,
They need to be removed and reinstalled with either a medium-bed mortar, which will not sink, or additional spacing substrate beneath the mosaics, like an extra layer of ditra.
Hi Roger
We are still putting up Hardiebacker board in our shower over the cast iron salient shower pan. I am looking at tile for outside the shower (5 ft x 5 ft). I found some porcelain glazed 12″x24″ tile that looks good with the mini-subway mosaic tile we are using in the shower, gloss white.
I have found some pebble mosaic 3″x12″ that I really like as an accent with the 12×24 floor tile. However, it looks freakin’ scary. It looks porous and the top side of these mosaic pebbles have small pits as it has a natural look.
1.What sort of grout would I use with these pebbles and is their appearance natures way of saying “step back and run”?
2. Also, is Fusion okay for 1/8th inch grout lines on our gloss mini-subway mosaic tile in the shower surround?
3. Do we need to wait 24 hours for the taped/ Thinset joints to dry on the Hardieboard before we start the redgard applicating. (3 coats, after misting and priming the hardieboard)
p.s. – Does Paypal set up an automatic account if I buy the download for shower surrounds? After rendering 2 cpu’s and a laptop useless, I have no printing capability from my tablet, so I would just refer to my downloaded jewels your instructions impart on same.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
Paypal will walk you through what you need to do, takes about 90 seconds. Yes, you will have an account when you’re done.
You would use regular grout. Those pits would (and should) be filled with the grout as you grout it.
I have installed tumbled travertine mosaic (1″ squares) on a shower floor. The manufacturer describes it “Crema Antiqua Travertine
Collection has been tumbled and left unfilled which gives the surface of the
stone an antiqued appearance.” It has visible pours on the surface. Should I apply a sealer on the surface before I apply grout? What is the best method to apply sealer and keep it out of the tile grooves? And what is the best method to apply the grout and keep it out of the surface pours? Will Grout Residue remover help with the last question.
Hi Rick,
Yes, you should seal it first. And no, grout residue remover will not keep it out of there. Sealer won’t keep it all out either. That tile IS NOT made for shower floor applications. The reason being that unless you fill the pores with grout, then seal it, you have open crevices in the surface of your stone which can not be cleaned out well. If not filled you will eventually have all sorts of nasty things growing in there. They need to be filled.
Hi Roger,
My issue is that my dog is frequently slipping on our tiles in the living room and kitchen. they are not smooth or shiny. ( when i run my fingernail over it there are tiny bumps) and after a mop it seems to take forever to dry. Its also very hard to clean as the dirt seems to stay inside the tile unless we scrub very hard.
I have read all about acid etching, coating, and also new to tile sealers. I have been looking into miracle 511, as on the website it claims it works for all sorts of tiles, and it will increase the anti slip properties? Do you think it would work for my situation?
Hi Jo,
It may work. I assume the reason it takes forever to dry is because you have a porous tile, the 511 will definitely seal that up and at least help with that aspect of it.
Hi Roger,
I may have described them wrong.. the tiles appear smooth to the hand, but when you use finger nails over it it seems grainy. The surface is well polished
is that still considered porous? The water just sits on the tile hence taking forever to dry, not soaked in at all…
No, that doesn’t mean it’s porous. I don’t understand how your tile can be grainy and well polished at the same time??? Polished indicates that it is smooth, if that’s the case then the 511 will help. If the tile has a highly glazed finish with texture then that means the actual tile has more surface to hold water as the texture creates surface area in the z-axis as well. There is no way to ‘fix’ that to make it less slippery short of installing a different tile with a high coefficient of friction rating. I am not aware of any product that will overcome that.
Hi, I installed a honed travertine shower outside/outdoors that is partially exposed to weather (what is not under the eaves) and asked my guy to seal it as it was starting to look like it was absorbing too much dirt and dust. He said it was ok to use a sealer I had in the garage for saltillo tile, applied it and now my travertine is shiny, streaked all over and looks strange. What do I need to do to fix. Thanks!
Hi Marta,
You need to remove that coating (it’s not really a ‘sealer’) and apply a proper stone sealer. Miracle sealant’s 511 porous plus is what you want.
hey Roger, Need your opinion. Just installed honed travertine wall tile in the shower and was going to go buy the 511 sealer and seal before grouting but I came across an article see below that says travertine in wet area should not be sealed. I would love your view on the below.
Travertine Showers: should NOT be sealed…. even if testing shows it could be sealed.
You may get away with sealing a travertine shower without any issue (or appreciable benefit for that matter) but, you really want to let stone breath and sealing may end up trapping moisture in the stone.
How? Well… If the shower installation isn’t perfect (and many aren’t), then water will eventually find its way underneath the tiles where the sealer will prevent the trapped water from evaporating through the stone, which will lead to degradation of the stone.
THanks for always taking the time to reply
Terri
Hi Terri,
I think it’s written by someone who doesn’t know how modern sealers work. They are correct in that the stone should be allowed to breathe, and also correct that water will get behind the tile, albeit even IF it is perfectly installed. Modern sealers allow tile and stone to breathe – moisture will dissipate through the sealer. Sealer is not made to make anything waterproof. Go ahead and seal your travertine – you are doing it correctly.
 Go ahead and seal your travertine – you are doing it correctly.
Hi Roger,
I have a big problem in that ceramic tiles 1st grade sold as shower tiles have now been downgraded because they have found a batch that are porous – a manufacturing fault. The 18 sqm I bought come from this batch! The tiles were used in the shower – floor and up the walls as well as the balance of the bathroom. The tiles have been taking water since installation which was September 2013. The tile company have admitted liability but this really does not help me as to remove all the tiles means stripping the entire bathroom and potentially destroying all the underfloor heating and possibly damaging the waterproofing. So the other option is to seal the tiles. The problem is they are water logged. My logic is therefore to use a water based sealer as getting the tiles bone dry and using a solvent based sealer is going to be very difficult. In your opinion what would you do and do you think sealing the tiles will reduce their porousness enough (Ive read the above about sealers not being waterproofers). Please help!!
Hi Carey,
I don’t understand what you’re concerned about. If your shower is properly waterproofed a porous tile is no problem at all. Travertine is extremely porous and used in showers all the time. Sealers will allow the tile to ‘breathe’, which will allow it to dissipate moisture through evaporation, and it will slow the influx of moisture into the tile from the surface. Stop using the shower for a week and you can use a good solvent-based sealer.
Hi Roger,
I sealed my granite counter top with 511 and so far have only been using water to clean it as I am worried about products leaving a residue. I am wondering if a solution of vinegar and water (1 part vinegar/9 parts water) would damage either the sealer or granite. I remember reading somewhere not to use vinegar with grout as it will eat it away, or something like that, so I’ve only used water to clean my tiled floors also because I’m not sure what else is safe. What do you recommend people use to clean granite and floors with porcelain tile?
Thanks
Hi Linda,
Any big box or hardware store will have a ph-neutral tile and stone cleaner. That’s what you want to use.
We have a 10 yr old Saltillo tile floor in our kitchen, and want to lay a matching Saltillo tile floor in the adjacent mudroom. Unfortunately our original tiles are pale, not a rich warm pink/brown/orange. We want to have both the floors looking similar, even if that means pale and anemic. The original kitchen floor was treated with Miracle sealant Impregnator (10 yr ago, not sure what the actual product was, but I sent the empty container as a joke to my sister who was having infertility problems, so I know that it had Impregnator in the name). The tiles looked pale and anemic, so I used Miracle Sealant ‘s Saltillo Tile Paste wax for color, and have been using Miracle Tile’s Liquid wax (I purchased several gallons 9 yrs ago). Apparently they stopped making the paste wax and liquid wax 8 yrs ago. The old tiles look tired and dull now. Question: how should I go about making the 2 floors look similar–remove the wax from the old floor, then apply a stain to the old tiles and new unsealed tiles, then seal the new tiles with 511 , then put Miracle Sealant’s High Gloss Finish over both? If I use mineral spirits to remove the paste and liquid waxes, do I need to re-seal the old floor? Do you have any experience with Smith Paints water based Old World Transparent series concrete stains on Saltillo tiles., or would you recommend a natural looking Saltillo colorant? Thanks
Hi Ruby,
You will need to strip off the existing finish. You can install the new tile and use whatever colorant you choose. the 511 gloss finish would be a good finish for all of it.
Hey Roger
How can I tell if the porcelain is unglazed or glazed? Does it matter for the sealant, doing both bathrooms?
Hi Eileen,
It doesn’t really matter for the sealant. Splash water on it, if it soaks in quickly it’s likely unglazed.
On the subject of cat pee, could a silicone based product seal in the smell once its been cleaned as much as possible? The offending (or offended) area is a disused brick fire place
thanks
Ali
Hi Ali,
Maybe, but it is best to remove the odor completely, of course.
Roger,
You seem like an expert on this stuff that might be able to help me with a dispute I’m having with a landlord. Any chance I could get your email address to get your opinion on the power of sealers to prevent etching on marble kitchen countertops. I’d particularly like to know if the following is true: “In the presence of properly applied fluorocarbon coatings, etching cannot take place instantly. The coating must first be broken down. This occurs initially by diffusion of the reacting components. “
Hi Chris,
It is true that with a COATING whatever acid would etch the marble would first need to eat through the coating. However (!), if is something that will etch the marble it will have little trouble eating through a coating, fluorocarbon, silicone, or otherwise. It occurs by the acid eating through the coating, if they want to call it ‘diffusion of the reacting components’ that’s fine, but that’s all it is. The acid is the reacting component and the diffusion is the acid eating through the coating. An impregnating sealer and a coating are two completely different things, neither of which will prevent etching. It will take a bit longer with a coating, but if it does happen you would need to strip the entire surface of the marble before replacing the coating, you can not spot seal a coating.
It is my opinion that a coating should not be used on any type of natural stone, especially one used as a kitchen countertop.
Hi
Nice article.
I like the Drytreat Stain Proof sealer.
For my concrete tiles & natural stone pavers.
For indoors, I used their extremely low voc sealer
Called meta creme
It’s been 5 years and all still looks great
I just had a matte finish porcelain tile floor installed – 250 sq. ft.
My husband would prefer a more “satin finish” if possible —
Please, please recommend your product choice!
Thank you so much
Hi Evie,
If you put miracle sealant’s seal ‘n’ enhance on it that may give it a higher sheen. Nearly any enhancing sealer will make it a little more shiny for you, but not glossy with a matte tile.
Hey Roger, just finished my substrate using your traditional manual. I tried to get the thinset on the seams as thin as possible, but obviously it’s not perfect. How much effort do I need to put into sanding and smoothing them out? Thx.
Depends on how big of a trowel you’re using. As long as there’s less than 1/8″ variation you will be able to compensate for that as you set your tile.
Roger,
i tried to find this answer as i am sure it’s here somewhere, but could not.
First I have Jeruselem Gold limestone 12×12 on shower wall. It needs to be sealed right? Even the polished version? Also if i seal tile and grout first, will the caulk at change of plane actually stick? Or should i caulk first? Thanks again!
Hi Janice,
Yes, it needs to be sealed, polished or not. Yes, the silicone or caulk will stick fine even after sealing.
Thank you so much for this article, and looking forward to the follow-up about which sealer for which type of tile/stone! To make a very long story short, I have been restoring the floors one by one in the place where I live, and in one area I put down (well, under the close supervision of a dear friend who is an experienced and well regarded licensed general contractor) ceramic tiles over the wood subfloor from which I stripped off some very nasty, decrepit linoleum tiles and some other junk. My friend had to go back to his “real” job before the grout had cured, so we didn’t get to seal that area. In fact, there is still a good sized “bald spot” where we couldn’t finish laying the tiles since we ran into a clearance issue with the ghetto door (serious hard-core security door ubiquitous in L.A.’s equally ubiquitous “rough spots”) which for reasons best known to someone else had been hung so it swings inside instead of outside.
Anyway, in your article you discussed sealers that are effective for inhibiting entry of STAINING agents. Does this same property similarly apply to STINKING agents that also stain?? I’m referring to cat piss in this case…if you are interested in the gory details, the first installment can be found here (one more on the way): http://fiddlerchick.wordpress.com/2012/12/06/how-the-cat-piss-war-was-won/
I bought a quart of some sort of sealer awhile ago that I haven’t yet tried putting on, so tomorrow I’ll look at it to see what type it is. Your breakdown of the purpose and components of sealers was extremely helpful since there is such a baffling array of products available that when you don’t really understand what they actually do, it’s impossible to make an even minimally informed decision about which one to buy! Even my contractor friend was having trouble working out what would be the best one to seal some beautiful slate tiles I bought for the bathroom floor once I get around to doing that room.
Hi Brenda,
No sealer is going to help with cat, or any other type of urine. Sealers do not protect against acid. Uric acic, contained in urine (cat or otherwise) will etch or eat away any type of sealer you put on your tile or grout. The best you can do is use porcelain tile and seal it with a silicone-based sealant, then clean as soon as possible to prevent the acid from sitting on top of the installation.
There isn’t anything to do but train your pets. Sorry.
Thanks! I had a sneaking suspicion based on my research prior to doing the floors that there is nothing on Earth that will completely protect against that. My contractor friend also recommended porcelain tiles and we looked at them, but the one I liked best happened to be ceramic, so that is what I bought. Hopefully that won’t critically compromise the durability of that area. Thankfully my demolition job fixed the chronic inappropriate elimination issue with the cat, so now the only time he pees on the floor is when we don’t keep the litter boxes clean enough for him — he’s even more fussy about that than the girls!