Finished tiled shower ceilingMichael has recently pointed out (a bit more eloquently than I would have) that I have indeed been a lazy bastard and have not yet written this post. Apparently people actually want to know how to do stuff I do – weird, right? So here you go – making your ceiling shiny.

The main problem people have with tiling a ceiling is getting the tile to stay where they put it. Believe me, I’ve had more than one tile fall on my noggin before I figured out what works. Since I’m relatively certain you aren’t very interested in what doesn’t work I’ll tell you what does, it saves headaches – literally.

You do not need a $75 bag of non-sag thinset to tile a ceiling. Non-sag thinset is basically just thinset that is sticky – it’s great stuff! It’s also expensive stuff. You can accomplish the same with the $15 bag of regular modified thinset.

Before you start hanging head-bashers (ceiling tile) you should, as always, have the substrate properly prepared. They do not always need to be waterproof. It’s a good idea and never hurts, but it isn’t always necessary. The photos of the shower I have here was in a small bathroom with limited ventilation so I waterproofed the ceiling as well.

Burning thinset into the substrate

Photo 1

You should always ensure that the ceiling substrate is screwed onto the joists securely. There is a whole different set of physics at work on a horizontal surface that don’t apply to your vertical wall tile. Basically the entire weight of the full tile is pulling constantly on every inch of your tile. So you want whatever it is attached to securely fastened.

Back of ceiling tile

Photo 2

Thinset burned into the back of the tile

Photo 3

The first thing we’re gonna do is burn your thinset into the ceiling substrate – in this case it’s Kerdi. ‘Burning’ thinset into something simply means using the flat side of your trowel and skim-coating the surface. I use the term a lot and that’s all it means. It fills all the areas of your substrate or tile (whatever you’re burning it into) and ensures that your thinset gets a good grab on whatever it is. Photo 1 shows about half of the ceiling with thinset burned into it.

Thinset burned into the back of the tile

Photo 4

Photo 2 shows the back of one of the tiles we’re installing on the ceiling. See all those white lines? Those are actually raised just the tiniest bit so the back of the tile is not entirely smooth. You need to burn thinset onto the back of the tile. This will fill all those little squares and ensure that you have every area on the back of your tile adhering to thinset. You want to give it every square inch possible to grab onto that ceiling. Photos 3 and 4 show the tile with thinset burned into the back.

Thinset combed onto the back of the tile

Photo 5

Now you want to flip your trowel over and comb thinset onto the back of the tile. “Combing” thinset is another term I use often – it just means using the notched side of your trowel to, well, comb the little lines all in the same direction. That is – wait for it – Photo 5. You are not allowed to give me crap about my lack of photo labeling originality!

Bullseye combed into the back of the tile

Photo 6

Now we get to the secret ingredient of ceiling tile installation – suction! All that thinset you combed into pretty little lines on the back of your tile? Take the end of your trowel and draw a bulls-eye in it like Photo 6 (believe it or not I was totally sober when I drew that ‘circle’). This bulls-eye is what keeps the tile from dropping on your head – because that hurts like hell. You should just take my word for it on that one without testing it for yourself.

Tile stuck to ceiling of shower

Photo 7

Now that you have your bulls-eye on the back of your tile go ahead and press it up onto your ceiling. (Photo 7) You want to push hard! You will actually hear air squishing out from inside that circle of thinset. This creates suction on the back of your tile and helps the tile stay put until the thinset cures. Once that happens it doesn’t matter what shape your thinset is on the back. The suction is needed to keep it there only until the thinset is cured.

Ceiling partially tiled

Photo 8

Continue to do this with the rest of your ceiling tile – every one of them, even the cut tiles. Draw the bulls-eye and stick it up, draw the bulls-eye and stick it up, etc., etc. To get them to stay in the proper spot with correct grout line size and lined up you can actually stick spacers in them (Photo 8 ) and use blue painter’s tape to keep them in the proper spot relative to one another. Just get a piece of tape about 3 -4 inches long and stick half of it to one tile then pull that tile slightly toward the one next to it and stick the tape to the next one. This will keep each tile tightly against the spacer and the tile next to it so your grout lines don’t go all wonky. (Did I just type ‘wonky’??? Jesus…)

You do not need to comb thinset onto the ceiling. I know that sounds counter-intuitive but simply burning the thinset into the substrate will give you plenty of grab onto the tile. You do not need to be concerned with 100% support as you would on a floor – no one will walk on your ceiling except Spiderman – he’s an ass sometimes. But he always pays to replace any ceiling tile he cracks.

Once you get all your tile up there you can still push them upward to get them flat with each other. Just lay your straight-edge across them as you would on a floor and make any adjustments needed. You do not want to pull them down to adjust them! You will lose the suction doing this. You want them really close to flat before you make any final adjustments.

Completed tiled shower ceiling

Photo 9

You can see in Photo 9 (if you click on it) that there are two tiles that have slightly low corners which I still need to push up (they’re in the back row – the left corner of tile two and the entire front edge of tile four). Always push up to make adjustments. If your tile is way out of whack pull it down as you are setting them to add or take away thinset on the back. Do not pull them down once you have them all set and taped.

That’s it. That’s how you get tile to stick on the ceiling with regular thinset. Easy. Okay, it’s easy for me. You may have a bit of a learning curve.

There are two basic designs for your ceiling tile. You can either line up all the grout lines (which requires planning!) or you can install the ceiling tile on-point (diagonally). This is simply a personal preference – whichever you think would look better in your shower is the one you should choose. The photos here have all the grout lines lined up. If you do not install your ceiling tile diagonally please line up your grout lines. If you don’t it looks like crap – that simple.

When installing tile on the ceiling you want to install the tile on the shower walls all the way up to the last row before the ceiling – as I’ve done in these photos. If you are lining up your grout lines rather than installing them diagonally you can then draw lines on your ceiling as guides to where your tiles should be. You don’t see lines in these photos because I use a laser – I’m Star Wars-ey like that. 8)

Once you get all your ceiling tile up then install your last row of wall tile. This will help hold all the tile around the edges as well. Be sure not to cut the last row of wall tile so that it barely fits in there! You need an expansion joint of about 1/16″ and you do not want the pressure of a wall tile that is not short enough pushing one side of the ceiling tile up – the other side will push down – leverage, you know. Cut them about 1/16″ shorter (plus your regular grout line size for the line below it)  than your measurement and use plastic wedges for that gap. And when you are finished – caulk or silicone that space, don’t grout it.

The thinset I’m using is a basic modified thinset – nothing special. It’s Versabond which is commonly sold at Home Depot. You should know this, just to avoid confusion about an issue that is confusing enough anyway. Schluter recommends UNmodified thinset for the Kerdi membrane. If you choose to use modified thinset over the kerdi membrane it will void your warranty! Just be aware of that.

I use modified for two reasons: 1) I prefer modified thinset for everything – period. I give my own warranty to my customers which happens to be longer than Schluter’s warranty anyway. I take that risk and choose to do so – consciously. Should you choose to use modified thinset over kerdi you should be aware of this. And no – it does not create any problems that I have ever been aware of. Doesn’t mean it won’t, just means I have never heard of it. And 2) I’m a rebel like that. 8)

If you have any questions at all please feel free to leave a comment and ask there – I’ll respond when I sober up! The gist of this post was shrunk down into a handy little four paragraph email for TileTips. You can click that link for more information or simply sign up in the box at the top right (under the pretty picture).

This post was brought to life by the suggestion of one of my readers in a comment. I really do read them! So I would like to thank Michael for kicking me in the ass and making me do something productive! My wife thanks you, too. If there is a particular subject you would like to see a post about just let me know – I’m a wealth of useless information.

UPDATE! A lot of people have asked me if their particular size of tile would work using this method – yes, it will. The size of the tile is rarely a factor. Think about it like this: A 2′ x 2′ tile is four square feet. If one square foot of tile weighs five pounds and one 2′ x 2′ tile weighs twenty pounds – it still weighs five pounds / square foot. It weighs the same – it just takes up more area at once.

Here are some photos of some 2′ x 2′ tiles I installed on a ceiling – they weighed 23 lbs. each! And they hung up there just fine. So if you think you’ll have problems with your little 18″ tiles – well, you won’t. :D

 

{ 831 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

 
  • Louie

    What size notch trowel for mosaic tile 2×2 , 12″ sheets ceiling install ?

    Thanks Louie D Great site

    • Roger

      Hey Louie,

      I use a 1/4″ x 1/4″ u-notch trowel. After you get it troweled onto the ceiling flip the trowel over and use the straight side to knock down the ridges so you have an even layer of thinset on the ceiling. Then you can install your mosaics and press them in without too much squeeze-through.

  • Frank

    A leaking pipe brought down a third of my shower ceiling. To repair it do I have to remove all the existing tile and start over? Or just back to an exposed stud? Thanx

    • Roger

      Hi Frank,

      I have no idea what you’re talking about. :D Was your ceiling tiled? If so then you only need to remove the top layer of tile around the walls, replace the ceiling then that row of tile. If it isn’t tiled then you should be able to remove the drywall that was on your ceiling and just replace it, you shouldn’t have to remove any tile.

      Or was it not the ceiling???

  • Sydney

    Thanks Roger for your help. My contractor is ready to complete tiling steam shower. The shower walls are 5/8″ mosaic glass tile, 12 x 12 sheets with some marble around edges. I want the mosaic on the ceiling and have seen it many times. my contractor says it should be larger tile since is a sloped ceiling. I don’t understand his reasoning and After much searching for other tile and seeing it done, I’m going to insist on the mosaic. If I didn’t say, it’s or a steam shower.
    Does anyone else know why it can’t or shouldn’t be done with mosaic?
    And from your article you’re saying use thin set for ceiling, but I’ve had 3 different people at different times, one the owner of a tile store, tell me I need to use “epoxy” for the ceiling tile or sure, it’s a MUST! Are you aware of this and is it necessary?
    Thank you

    • Roger

      Hi Sydney,

      No reason at all of which I’m aware to not use mosaics on the ceiling. No reason at all of which I’m aware to need epoxy on the ceiling. Some thinsets may leach latex due to the temperature differentials in steam showers, but as long as the thinset is approved for use in a steam shower then it can be used on the floor, wall, ceiling, wherever.

      Most people who insist on epoxy for a ceiling are counting on it to both add waterproofing (steamproofing) abilities to the ceiling, which should be completely done with the substrate itself, and/or are using it because it’s stickier. It is not required, there is no standard anywhere that states such a thing.

  • David Wrght

    Hi Roger!
    Thanks for the very useful information put in such a way that doesn’t make us look stupid. I do that enough on my own. :bonk:
    Question? I’m building a master bathroom for the master bedroom. In it I decided to build a steam shower. I’m using both the schluder and the kirdi product.(Forget my spelling please!) I’ve used the hardi backer on all the walls and floor and (over kill dave) is also using the schluder on the walls and ceiling. is it wise for me to remove the green board from the ceiling and replace with the hardibacker? :?:

    • Roger

      Hi David,

      I want to make sure of something, even though I’m sure you’re doing it correctly, but I HAVE to check. When you say you are using BOTH the schluter and the kerdi product – what exactly do you mean? Schluter is the company that makes the products Kerdi and Ditra. I just want to make sure that you are using only the kerdi in the shower and not the ditra as well – it only belongs on floors (outside showers). Like I said, I’m sure that’s correct, but I HAVE to make sure.

      A steam shower is completely different than a regular shower. What you are doing is NOT overkill, it’s the bare minimum required (backerboard and kerdi) for your walls. The ceiling NEEDS to be built in a similar manner, the green board has to be removed and discarded. Every square inch of the inside of that shower should have kerdi over a cement-based backer. It is imperative.

      Also, on the floor you need to have a sloped deck made of deck mud. Again, I’m sure you do (or will) but in your question you stated that you have hardi on the walls and floor.

      • David Wrght

        Roger,
        Thanks for all your help. I’m removing the greenboard and replacing it with 1/2″ hardibacker. You are right, I’m using the kerdi membrane on all the surfaces; floor,wall ceiling. The detra was a brain fart…Thought that it should go on the steam shower floor as well as the master bath. I haven’t put it down yet so shower BAD :bonk: and bathroom floor GOOD :dance: I restructured the shower floor with new joists with a slope to a shower trough drain against the wall.

  • Gary

    Hi Roger,

    You said you were using a 5/16 x 5/16 trowel, I see in your pictures it is a V-notched trowel. Will a 1/4″ x 3/8″ square notched or a 1/2″ x 1/2″ square notched work? I am tiling with 16″ x 16″ porcelain and 12″ x 12″ (actually 5/8″ x 1 1/4″ pieces in a 12″ x 12″ mesh, I also have a 3/16″ x 1/4″ V-Notched. Will any of these trowels work for my project? :whistle:

    • Roger

      Hey Gary,

      Not sure where you see a v-notch trowel? Save for one small one I use for backsplashes all my trowels are square notched. Either of the square notched trowels you mentioned will work for your tile the v-notch will not unless you are installing small ceramic tiles on a completely flat substrate.

  • Linda

    Well, Roger, that was by far the most informative and interesting article I’ve seen yet regarding overhead tiling. Am ready to try my own crop circles :) My question: the guy at the tile store (former tiler) insisted I use Mastic to install 3″x6″ overhead tiles. Just curious as to your recommendation. Is in a kitchen, btw. Also, any tips on laying slate floor tiles would be appreciated. (Am gonna search here as soon as I finish typing). Have installed a lot of floor tile, but am a slate first-timer.
    Thanks for the entertaining advice.

    • Roger

      Hi Linda,

      If the tile is being installed in a kitchen, in a non-wet area, then mastic can be used. I still prefer thinset, though.

      Laying slate involves many different things depending on the particular slate you have. It’s impossible to tell you how to lay it if I don’t know exactly what you have. Is it honed, is it calibrated, is the back smooth, rough, even… There are just WAY too many different types of slate to give you a descent answer. One thing is universal, though, use a larger trowel than normal. :D

      • Linda

        Thanks for the quick, informative answer. My slate is not honed, but is gauged. I am installing 3 x 6 ” tile in a backsplash and recessed area surrounding a cooktop. Read thru your tips and did use the mastic for the 3 x 6 with good results. Have not started on the 12 x 12 flooring yet. You said “larger” trowel; I assuming you mean larger notches? Also, have read other info about sealing the slate prior to grouting for easier cleanup. Your thoughts? Great website; thanks again!!

        • Roger

          Yes, I mean a larger notched trowel. With most slate I’ll normally use a 3/8″ or even 1/2″. Sealing slate prior to grouting is the norm. Makes grouting and clean-up much easier.

  • Ken Bingham

    Roger,

    I laid some 1/4 inch hardibacker on a floor and noticed that it has a tendency to crack on the corners even when staying back the recommended distance by the manufacturer. I was using the pricey hardibacker screws, I was told by a friend that I could use my construction stapler to secure the hardibacker instead. I am getting ready to put up some hardibacker on my ceiling. I am creating a dropped ceiling in the tub/shower area which is constructed of 4 x4 material mounted to the irregularly spaced celing joists from whick the drop ceiling is supported. I reinforced all of the ceiling joists prior to adding the dropped ceiling. Centers on the 4 by material range from 16 to 20 inches and the dropped ceiling is 4ft by 7ft, I have also added 4 x 4 (screwholds) between each joist just off center (shower light & overhead shower) such that there is no area larger than 18 x 20 without backing support. 1) Can I use 1/2″ or 1/4″ hardibacker directly to the joist or should I install a sheet of OSB first. 2) when working close to the corners can I use my construction stapler to avoid damaging the corners of the hardibacker and will this help? 3) If I attach the hardibacker directly to the joists should I put thinset on the joist prior to installing the hardibacker? 4) when I get ready to do another floor can I just use my construction stapler?

    Thanks,

    Ken

    • Roger

      Hey Ken,

      1. You can go directly to the joists.

      2. I don’t think it will help. If your tile is 4×4 you can screw it up to 2″ away from the corner and it will be fine. The staples will be difficult to countersink.

      3. Nope, just the screws.

      4. As I stated, the staples will be difficult to countersink. You can, however, use galvanized roofing nails, although they may do the same thing as far as breaking the corners.

      • Ken Bingham

        Would you use the Hardibacker 500 or the 1/4 ” Hardibacker on the ceiling. I am guessing the 500, though the 1/4″ weighs less.

        • Roger

          I would use the 500.

  • Jason Wickens

    Hi Roger,
    I have purchased the Schluter shower kit and am ready to tile my shower wall and sloped ceiling. The room was once a bedroom and is painted. Can I install the Schluter over the painted wall and ceiling or should we be cutting it out and replacing the painted drywall with greenboard on the wall and cement board on the ceiling?

    • Roger

      Hey Jason,

      You can go over the painted wall as long as you rough up the paint with sandpaper or something so the thinset can get a good grab.

  • Jerry

    I have 2 bathroom ceilings to tile. I am using 4″x4″ tile. Do these small tile need to be burnt also? I also want to use a flat schulter bar for the front edge. What is the best way to keep that in place? Thanks Jerry

    • Roger

      Hey Jerry,

      Nope, the 4×4’s can simply be stuck on the ceiling after you comb thinset onto it. Use a couple of nails to hold the schluter in place. Once the thinset cures that’s what will be holding it up. If you can put the schluter up the day before (measure REALLY well!) you can hold it up there with thumbtacks and simply remove them the next day – the thinset will hold it up.

  • Robin

    Question about lining up ceiling tiles: I totally get the importance of lining up grout lines with the lines on the walls. However, I’m using tiles that are rectangular on the wall. The only way I could get the ceiling tiles all to line up is to cut them from rectangles into squares. Do I have to do that and waste all that tile, or could I fudge by only having them line up with the back tiles?

    Also, how far apart do the ceiling studs need to be to support the backboard and tile?

    • Roger

      Hey Robin,

      You don’t have to line them up or cut them into squares at all. It’s whatever you think looks good. When possible it normally looks best to line them up, but with rectangular tiles it simply isn’t possible. In that case I normally just line it up with the back wall or put the ceiling tiles up diagonally.

      Ceiling studs should be a minimum of 16″ on center. That said, I have installed a lot where they were 20-24. It depends on the thickness of your tile. 16″ is ideal – 12″ is better. I’m a lot of help, huh? :D

  • Tim

    OK, nightmares are over.

    I have planned the ceiling tile install in my mind 100 nights minimum. Always a bad end to the dream.

    Finally go the “grout” to try it and I was amazed. The crop circles did the trick! I was so happy and amused it was hilarious. I had 4″ trim pieces to intall around the perimeter and “drew” small circles wiith the trowel and they hung in place as if nailed.

    Thanks oh tile dude…

    PS……

    Tile…………………. $500
    Schluter…………… $500
    Thinset……………. $ 50
    Grout ……………….$ 50
    Beer………………….$ 1,000

    Professional job with your help…… PRICELESS,,,,,,

    • Roger

      Glad I could help Tim! Your prices seem accurate – especially the beer tab…

  • Linn

    Hey There……..I just tiled my kitchen floor and my bathroom countertop, and now I’m headed to the kitchen to lay some more granite and then back to the bathroom for a shower stall and a tub surround.

    I have a few questions…….
    1) What is the best way to settle a difference in surface leveling of a wall. I forgot to have my husband lift the cement board above the tub lip, and now there is a definite bulge at the edge where the wall meets the tub. I was thinking if I’m using a 1/2×1/2 trowel on the wall (recommended by my local tile shop), I could use a 1/4×1/4 trowel in the bulged area to compensate for the additional thickness……..Do you think this will solve my problem?
    2) I have a few tiles that are slightly off on the bathroom counter…….What is the easiest process in insuring I am not going to have raised or dropped tiles? I tried using the level, but it seems some of them just dropped. I was told that if I put a little extra thin set in each corner it will allow me to better manipulate the level of the tile. Do you agree with this method, or do you have another suggestion?

    Thank you, and I am looking forward for a quick response, as I am out of here at 9am tomorrow:)

    • Roger

      Hey there…

      1. A larger trowel can compensate for unevenness in your substrate. No need for a smaller trowel, though, just tilt the trowel to a more shallow angle to apply less thinset.

      2. Do not apply more thinset to the corners, you may end up with hollow areas under the rest of the tile. Ensuring proper, full coverage is about the only way to do it. You can also use a medium-bed mortar, which will not shrink as much as it cures.

  • Diana

    Hi, I also have tiles that are 2×2 that come in 12 inch sheets, would it help if I cut the sheets into 3×3 inches? So even if they fall it’s not as heavy!
    Also the tile man that I hired refused to put tile on the celleing and left:(

    • Roger

      Hi Diana,

      Doesn’t matter if you cut them or not. One square foot of tile weighs the same whether it’s 2×2’s or 24×24. If you’re worried about them then yes, cut them into smaller strips and wear a hard hat. :D

      He left? Sissy! You didn’t want him anyway, he isn’t worth a shit. :D

  • John Colombero

    Excellent article. I am finishing up a custom shower myself and I’ve had to adopt the same measures you outline here. I concur that modified thinset is the way to go. When it is mixed properly, it will hold its own for many many years. I routinely use your articles to learn great tips. Thanks again!
    “Realtor by day and a builder by night.”

  • Isaac

    Do you use a 1/4′” trowel or larger for the ceiling tile?
    thanks

    • Roger

      Hey Issac,

      Normally a 5/16″ x 5/16″.

  • Laurie

    Hi Steve,

    I have a (pealing) painted plaster ceiling over my shower. Can I tile over the plaster, or do I have to redo the whole thing? I am planning to strip the paint down to the plaster.

    • Roger

      Hi Laurie,

      Dunno who Steve is, but I’ll answer your question. :D

      If you scrape off the peeling paint and the plaster is still in good condition you can tile over it. If it is powdery you’ll need to replace it.

  • Paul Vivian

    I stumbled onto your site while looking for art deco ceiling treatments. I had been shuttled by my server into so many, “If you wanna ask, you gotta pay”, sites, that I realized my server wasn’t doing it at home so much as it was doing it on the side, if you catch my drift. Then along came Roger. As my partner hyper-ventilated when I suggested tiling the bathroom ceiling, it’s a decidedly iffy proposition may but you made my morning anyway. The site ain’t fancy, (Thank you, baby Jesus) but the advice comes from experience, it is well explained and it’s gratis. Rock on Floor Elf, Rock on.

    • Roger

      Thanks Paul, glad to help.

  • Ken B

    Hi Steve, I want to put up 4×4 tiles to extend my shower walls to the ceiling and also do the ceiling. The walls and ceiling have been painted numerous times over the years – the house is 70+ yrs old. What do I need to do to the surfaces before I tile them?

    • Roger

      Hey Ken,

      Ideally remove the drywall and replace it with cement backerboard. At the minimum you can rough up the paint with sandpaper so the thinset can get a good bond and install the tile directly to the painted surface.

  • Cindy

    Hey Roger

    Just wanted to say thanks for the great tip on the ceiling tile bullseye! Just tiled my first ceiling, on a diagonal, and didn’t have a single tile fall! I was pretty unsure but it went really well. Thanks for the great info and wish me luck for the rest of the shower stall …

    Cindy

    • Roger

      Hi Cindy,

      Glad I could help keep your head safe! :D

  • Ken

    Thanks for all your great tiling tips. I notice you said you use Versabond from home depot, which I have used as a tile installer as well. I have debated a few other contractors in the use of grey or white thinset. Others have told me that grey is much better than white, but I tend to always go for the white if the color of the thinset does not matter to the type of tile I am using. Do you have preference? I know that when installing certain types of tile like glass that white must be used. Thanks

    • Roger

      Hey Ken,

      The gray and white thinsets are identical in regards to performance and capability. The only difference is the color, the cement aggregates are more pure in the white which gives it the white color. I actually mostly use white, it’s just easier to have white in the truck. If I need it I have it and if I don’t need it I can still use it. There are very few tiles, mostly slate and dark marbles, which shouldn’t be set with white thinset. Other than those you can use it for nearly anything.

  • Terry

    I am doing my bathroom ceiling do I need to put hardi backer or cement board up or can I put the tile on the mold resistant Sheetrock? The tiles are 12×24.

    • Roger

      Hi Terry,

      Provided you have adequate framing you can install it directly to the sheetrock.

  • Steve

    Thanks for the excellent info on installing ceiling tile.

    I am using 5″x24″ tile. Would you still try to do a series of circles on the tile. Not sure I would actually get a closed circle.

    Do you try to push the mortar mixture to be extra thick and sticky?

    Hoping not to bust my noggin.

    • Roger

      Hi Steve,

      The circles likely won’t work well on tiles that skinny. I would just mix it up a bit thick and be sure to press really well. Wiggle it back and forth to get a good grab.

      • Jill

        I actually tried the bullseye method on the 4 x 12 tiles I used for my ceiling, only I used two smaller bullseyes on each end of the tiles with no issues. Thanks for the great advice and ideas! I just finished tiling my bathroom floor and surround, including the ceiling, and don’t think it would have been as easy without your help. I have referred so many people here. Thanks again!

        • Roger

          Hi Jill,

          Thanks, glad I could help!

  • Rachel

    Hey, just wondering…why do you say not to grout the top space between the wall and ceiling, but to use caulk or silicone there? Thanks for your help!

    • Roger

      Hi Rachel,

      Because different planes of the walls will expand and contract in different directions. Silicone can compensate for that movement, grout can’t, it’ll crack.

  • Jacob

    I have a question about when you say burning in the thinset to the tile and ceiling. Do I have to put thinset on the tile and ceiling and then let it completely dry for like a day? Do I just do that for the ceiling? Everywhere I have looked in the internet says that burning means to completely let it dry, and I just want to make sure that is what you mean because that will mean I have to lay out all of my tiles somewhere to let them dry before I put them up.
    Thank you,
    Jacob

    • Roger

      Hi Jacob,

      When I say burn in your thinset I am simply referring to using the flat side of your trowel and skimming over the surface (substrate or tile) forcefully in order to force the thinset into all the micropores of the surface. This creates a full bond. You do not have to let it dry, any of it. I do it as I set the tile.

  • Steve

    First thanks for the great website, I did a tile floor in my kitchen 2 years ago and it came out great. Now the tiles in my tub surround decided they didn’t want to hang on anymore ( they were installed 40 years ago on drywall!). In any case we’ve decided to redo our entire bathroom. My question is with the ceiling, my wife picked out tiles that are 2×2 that come in 12 inch sheets, for the walls and ceiling. I’d prefer not to get hit on the head with these. Should I just burn the ceiling them place them, or should I use the non sag thin set? I also might say screw the smaller tiles and getting regular 12×12 that match. Thanks for your time!

    • Roger

      Hey Steve,

      They’ll stick just fine with regular thinset. You do need to make sure that you get the entire sheet embedded, if one begins to fall it’ll take the rest with it.