Tile FAQ’s

The questions below are the ones I get asked most often about tile and installation methods. Each one gets a very short answer, and where a full article exists there is a link to it at the end. Filter by topic or search for a word – if you would rather just read them all – just scroll.

Substrates

Setting Materials

Grout

Sealers

Transitions

Miscellaneous

Question that is not here? Leave it in the comments below and I will add it to this page.

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  • Karen

    I’m DIYing my bathroom and I’m confused about how to slope my shower floor. I have RedGuard to waterproof the floor. How do I slope the floor? I was told I can create the slope using medium set. But everything I see says to use deck mud. Or should I put Redguard down on the wood subfloor? Should I use deck mud to create the slope before or after the Redguard? Or should I Redguard before and after use deck mud?

    • Roger

      Hi Karen,

      You want to create your slope first, no redgard on the floor, then once that’s cured the redgard goes over the top of the cured mud deck.
      Yes, you absolutely want to use deck mud. NOT medium set.

      • Karen

        Thank you

  • Bruce

    Do you have any tiling friends with similar ethics in the Dallas Texas area?

  • Marie

    Hi Roger.
    I’d like some advice please as I’m not sure what to do next. I recently ( approx 4-5 weeks ago) I had a complete new bathroom fitted,floor and wall tiles etc, almost immediately small areas of the grout started to break and cracks began to appear. The bathroom installer came back and told me cracks happen because the tiles are settling..he placed some grout on the broken area but it has not done much. Tonight pieces of grout have broken away from the shower and more cracks are evident everywhere. I will call the installer again but I’m afraid I could get another excuse. I dont know the first thing about tiling but the information on this site is making me concerned that it will require a lot of work to finish. Not sure what I should do. Any advice gratefully appreciated.Thank you.

    • Roger

      Hi Marie,

      Tiles do not ‘settle’. If there are cracks it is normally indicative of either the grout not being properly mixed or installed (normally that is only an issue with unsanded grout) or movement in your substrate beneath the tile, which means it was improperly installed. The reasons for the latter can vary wildly. Your best bet is to find a qualified installer who can look at it and diagnose the issue. From that point you’ll know better how to move forward.

      I will say that contacting the same guy isn’t going to solve your problem. See if there is a certified installer near you: https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/find-certified-tile-installers

  • Brian

    Roger

    Love your site. I’m a frameless shower glass installer/company owner. We’re currently trouble shooting a problematic curb. The tile installers have used tapcon screws to attach durock to the top of the curb. They did red guard the durock. Is that ok, or is it still an issue that they have a dozen or so tap con screws penetrating the liner? Thank you very much

    • Roger

      Hi Brian,

      It’s still an issue. Not all the water comes from above the durock. Being the curb, and durock, water can soak up the durock from inside the curb, over the top and into those penetrations. Unless there is a solid layer of redgard from the outside of the curb to the drain it’s going to cause issues eventually.

  • Jim Moeller

    Seeking advice for backsplash tile membrane to prevent cracking

    I wonder which product you might recommend (I’m thinking Ditra?) to help prevent future cracking in a kitchen tile backsplash I want to install? I have a kitchen that is a room addition, and from time to time I see cracks in a corner where the old house meets the addition. It’s not a large area but I’m concerned it will be made worse if I see tiles cracking instead of drywall cracks.

    Tile would be installed on both walls meeting at the corner in question. The drywall tape is currently buckling a bit in the corner. The shifting/buckling has only occurred in the corner but I’m worried it could cause tile cracking in a much bigger area. The tile area would be about 16” from counter to cabinet and along the length of my cabinets, each tile is about 5” x 3”.

    My first thought was to use Ditra just in that corner (about one foot on both walls) and then feather the thin set down to the level of the rest of the wall without Ditra. Then I wondered if Kerdi wrap might be enough, maybe even 2 layers of Kerdi? I know it’s intended for waterproofing but wondered if it could also help prevent movement? I’d really rather not use the Kerdi board because of the added thickness. I would also be curious about whether there is a corner movement joint I could use? I enjoy reading your common sense approach to tile solutions. Hopefully you’ll have a recommendation.
    Thanks!
    Jim

    • Roger

      Hi Jim,

      It sounds to me like the issue is the two opposing walls creating a crack right in the corner? If that’s the case then you can get some six-inch wide drywall tape and tape that corner with it, then install the tile as normal and make sure you DO NOT grout the corner joint. Leave about 1/16″-1/8″ gap in the corner (rather than butting the tiles to one another) and use silicone in that corner. The silicone will compensate for the movement in the corner and the tile will move in whichever direction that particular wall happens to move.

  • Susan Williams

    Hi there,

    A year, or possibly two years ago my husband bought your program which was delivered to his email. Now that we’re are ready to tile the new shower he has since changed his password and doesn’t remember it! Anyway you can resend it to my account. Also, since our computer took a crash…can you play your program on Apple devices such as an iPad?

    Thanks for your consideration

    Susan Williams

    • Roger

      Hi Susan,

      Check your email. All my manuals are regular PDF files, so yes, they can be viewed on any device on any platform – even apple products. :D

  • Steve V

    Hi Roger,
    I’m doing a new shower with CertainTeed tile backer for the walls. I was gonna use a wedi sealant in corners and joints. Was wondering if I could use fiberglass tape with Aquadefense liquid membrane Over all joints and corners? If so would that take the place of alkali tape and thinset ? Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Steve,
      Yes, you can. Technically it will not take the place of tape and mud, but that method will not create any issues.

  • HereInOhio

    Hi Roger,

    I read your information often, around every time that I do a tile project since I don’t remember stuff. I also just like reading up on the correct way to do things even though I may not be doing it, I’m just weird like that. I’m currently installing tile on a wall above a tub using the liquid membrane so I will buy that book. I purchased the tile tips book before. I wouldn’t mind reading the book for the same application I’m currently doing but with Kerdi instead of the liquid. Why not just read the one for the Kerdi with the shower too since I might someday do that one. So what I’m getting to is I know you have packages with a few books combined but do you have a package with all of them? I would be interested if so.
    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Hereinohio (if that IS your real name…),

      Yes I do. Shoot me an email at Roger@FloorElf.com and I’ll give you the info.