Tile FAQ’s

by Roger

The questions below are the ones I get asked most often about tile and installation methods. Each one gets a very short answer, and where a full article exists there is a link to it at the end. Filter by topic or search for a word – if you would rather just read them all – just scroll.

Substrates

Can I simply stick tile to the drywall in my shower or the plywood on my floor?

You can but it won’t last – so no. Read this: Preparing a shower wall for tile or this: Installing backerboard for floor tile

Do I need a waterproof membrane for my shower walls?

Yes, a membrane of some sort is required. Read the article for the different types. Read this: Preparing a shower wall for tile

Does my floor have to be level before I install tile?

No it does not. Read this: Does my floor have to be level for tile?

Setting Materials

Are mastic and pre-mixed “mortar” acceptable to install tile on a floor or in a shower?

No they are not. Read this: Proper setting materials for tile

What should I use to set my tile?

It depends on where you are installing the tile. Read this: Proper setting materials for tile

Grout

Can I install my tile without grout lines?

No, you should not. Read this: Tile with no grout

Are tile, stone or grout waterproof?

No they are not. Read this: Is tile waterproof?

Does grout help stabilize tile, hold them in place, or make them stick better?

No it does not. (Epoxy grout is different) Read this: Does grout stabilize tile?

Are there any “magic” products available to remove stains from your grout and tile?

No there are not. One of the closest things to magic that you can buy is oxygen bleach. It is not bleach! It’s a slight misnomer. This is the main ingredient in products like oxyclean. It works very, very well to clean grout. More information: How to clean grout

Sealers

Should I seal (or re-seal) my tile and grout?

If you would like it to be easier to clean then yes, you should. Read this: Tile and stone sealers

Will sealing your tile and grout make it waterproof?

No! It absolutely will not. Read this: Sealers, part 2

Transitions

Should I use grout or caulk in the corners of my shower?

Technically? Caulk. Realistically? It depends. Read this: Caulk or grout in corners?

Miscellaneous

Can I install floor tiles on my shower walls?

Yes you can. Read this: Floor tiles on a wall

Question that is not here? Leave it in the comments below and I will add it to this page.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Paul

Hi Roger,

Got a question about deflection and OSB board and how much movement. First I started with 1/2″ plywood as the original floor I screwed and glued (construction adhesive in a tube for subfloors) 1/2″ OSB to this on my way to adding 1/4″cement board. I set a glass of water on the range hood and bounce on the floor I get water movement, it’s not sloshing around, but if I filled it to the brim I’m sure I could spill some. How much is to much movement? Is the OSB on the plywood ok?

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Paul,
  
  The osb over plywood is fine (not TECHNICALLY, but realistically…) but you do need to minimize movement. If the water still moves when you are simply walking across that floor it’s too much movement. An additional layer of ply or osb would help, and you should have thinset beneath your backer if you don’t already.
  
  ↩
  - Paul
    
    Roger,
    
    What’s the OSB issue? I haven’t put hardiboard down yet. Would I be better advised to remove the entire floor and start fresh with 3/4″ plywood or add 1/2″ cement instead of 1/4″?
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      The only issue with osb is that there is no thinset that is technically approved for use over it. Not that it won’t work, but manufacturers won’t stand behind it. That and plywood is more structurally sound. The osb is fine structurally, although plywood would be better. An additional layer of 1/2 plywood would be better, you don’t need to remove what you have. The thickness of the backer doesn’t matter, it adds nothing structurally.
      
      ↩
      - Paul
        
        Roger,
        
        If I add the additional 1/2″ plywood,(will it help structurally?) then top it with 1/4″ backer and 1/4″ tile that puts me about 3/4″ (not including the thinset) above the ajoining floors. Is this acceptable? How do you overcome that large transition? Is that going to be aesthetically pleasing? Thanks Paul
        
        ↩
        
        Roger
        
        3/4″ is very high, more than normal. I’d forgotten you already had two layers there. You can do one of three things to shore up your floor properly.
        
        1. Remove the osb and replace it with 1/2″ or 5/8″ plywood, then thinset, 1/4″ backerboard then tile.
        
        2. Install thinset and 1/4″ backerboard over the osb, then use ditra and tile above it. While that doesn’t technically shore up the floor, it allows needed compensation for that movement in your tile installation.
        
        3. Stiffen the framing beneath the floor. This can be adding joists, sistering joists or cutting your unsupported span in half. This is the best option as well as the most difficult.
        
        If it were mine I would go with #2, but any of them will work and keep your added height to a minimum.
        
        ↩
Amie

hi we have a concrete floor and a normal drain that isn’t 100$…and it has been this way for a little over a year…..I have been reading thru your website and i would just like your suggestion on what manual i could get that would probably cover the most information on that type of shower….let me know so i can buy it and get my husband to read it… actually chances are it will be me that is reading it and doing the work…. we’ll see

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Amie,
  
  You have a regular shower bed which should have a double layer of deck mud with your waterproof liner between them. Depending on which waterproofing method you want for the walls you can get the traditional shower walls and floors or topical board walls and traditional floor.
  
  ↩
Donna Goodman

Hi Tile Elf,

I need to cut a hole in my tile for my heat duct . The tiles are 16X16 and the hole is inside the dimensions of the tile.

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Donna,
  
  Do you have a question? I cut holes and registers out of the inside dimensions of tile all the time. The easiest is a grinder with a diamond tile wheel. You can also do it on a wet saw if it has chop-saw capabilities. Or on a wet saw by raising the tile into the blade if the blade is above the tile, or
  lowering it onto the blade if it’s below the tile.
  
  ↩
Scott S.

Hi Roger, I’m almost done with my shower, but I’m curious what you recommend concerning the shower fixutures? Should I caulk around the outside of them, put plumbers putty undereath, etc. I don’t have a foam rubber peace under the new shower head eschuteon for example, so I’m not sure what my best course of action is for that and the other fixtures.

Thanks!

Scott

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Scott,
  
  Normally nothing additional is needed provided your shower is properly waterproofed. You can always silicone around the outside of the escutcheons if you want.
  
  ↩
L.S.

Hello,
I am in the midst of planning a renovation of two bathrooms and a kitchen and I am glad to have found your website (although I will not be doing the work). Very helpful.
I wanted to ask your advice about what type of tile to use for the shower floor (which will most likely be adjacent to a tub in wetroom type of layout). The ceramic tiles I would like to use for the floor in the outside vanity/toilet area (outside of the enclosed shower/tub area) have a water absorption rate of 4.15%, making them semi-vitreous. I would like to continue these tiles onto the shower floor and possibly onto the shower walls and tub surround area. Is this advisable given the water absorption rate of these tiles? Thank you very much.

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi L.S.
  
  Provided your shower is properly waterproofed you can use any type of tile (nearly) you want in your shower. I use travertine a lot in normal showers, it’s one of the most absorbent products available. If your shower is correctly constructed and properly waterproofed it doesn’t matter how much water gets behind it, it’ll always end up in the drain.
  
  ↩
  - L.S.
    
    Hello Roger,
    
    Thank you very much for your advice. Appreciate it.
    
    Regards, L.S.
    
    ↩
Nicole

I’m not sure where the best place for this question is, but I’ll start here:
I’m planning to tile my kitchen/laundry room floor in the next month or so. We’re moving out of our current place and will be renting it out. In preparation for that, we’ll be completely redoing the kitchen and laundry room. All cabinetry/appliances will be removed, so no worries there.

Currently there are 3 (!) layers of linoleum over a concrete slab in both rooms. Having already removed this mess from the small bathroom, I know that the first layer will peel right up in a single sheet. The second layer is peel and stick tiles – they’re more difficult than the first layer but not impossible. The third layer is another single sheet, and it’s a nightmare. Old, rock-hard adhesive and brittle linoleum. I got through the 14 sq ft. half bath with scrapers and boiling water, but surely there’s a better way? The kitchen and laundry room combined are about 300 sq ft. Is there some sort of solvent I could use, and if so, will I need to do anything special afterwards before applying Redguard (or equivalent) for tile prep?

Or should I leave this one to the pros?

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Nicole,
  
  You can rent a floor scraper which will make fairly quick work of it, all three layers at one time. It’s well worth the rental fee. HD usually has them, just tell them what you’re scraping up and they can get you the correct blade. After it’s up you just need to make sure all the old glue is off the concrete, a grinder with a diamond cup wheel works well for that.
  
  ↩
M.P.

I’m having a company come and redo my master bath shower. They are using the Schluter Kerdi shower system. It is an upstairs shower and I’m very concerned about leaks. I was wondering if this system is a good choice and what can I look for during their installation to assure that it will be water tight, as they claim it will.

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi MP,
  
  Kerdi is how I build 90% of my showers. It works very well. Unless you know the detailed specifics of how kerdi works and is installed there isn’t really any one thing you can look for to ensure they are doing it correctly. Basically every square inch is covered with kerdi and all seams are overlapped 2″. That’s essentially it as far as waterproof requirements go.
  
  ↩
Jenny

Hello Floor Elf,

Can you tell me how to install 6-8 replacement tiles (Mocha Crema marble) on a concrete slab floor?

There seems to be a big problem with moisture seeping thru the tiles and making big (yellow, blotchy) “stains”. The new tiles look very different now from the ones that were there before and the from the others (probably 15-20 years old) on the same slab.

Should we have used a sealer on the back of the tiles? Or some physical moisture barrier? Or is there another issue?

many thanks !
Jenny

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Jenny,
  
  Any concrete slab should be tested for the amount of moisture present before tile installation. Excess moisture can lead to seepage and discoloration of the tile (as you are well aware ). The problem with excess moisture is that the solution is never an easy one. Sometimes a topical liquid membrane can be installed to dampen it, but sometimes there is too much moisture and that can lead to negative hydrostatic pressure (vapor or moisture causing the membrane to debond from the substrate).
  
  Short of complete replacement there isn’t really much you can do to eliminate that problem. To replace the tiles simply get down to the bare substrate and get a good modified thinset and bond the new tiles to the concrete. There isn’t really much to it, but it probably won’t solve the initial problem.
  
  ↩
  - Jenny
    
    Thanks Floor Elf,
    
    Great of you to reply!
    Wish my bank were as responsive…..
    
    If the tile person did already use “thin set”, and something called 511 (??) when he installed the tiles the first time, is there anything else that could be or could have been done to keep moisure out?
    
    He said he’d re-install the tiles, meaning he’d remove the ones he replaced a few months ago and start again, but doesn’t want to do this until he can find the solution…so it won’t happen next go round.
    
    Any suggestions for how he should go about on the next go round?
    
    Huge thanks!
    Jenny
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      You can try a liquid membrane beneath the tile. Products like redgard or hydroban brush or roll on and can keep a limited amount of moisture out. That may or may not work, depends on the amount of moisture present in your slab.
      
      ↩
Bill

Hi Roger – I bought the tile help PDF and it is great. I am close to tiling my rebuilt shower with a swanstone pan 48X32. I was chicken to attempt to build my pan so I went with formed. It seems pretty solid and I installed it with Mortar and lathe. Feels real good. My question is, where do you start the first tile at? My walls seem pretty plumb and swuare. My thinking is that is important as because the remaining tiles follow after that. I have a Moen valve with 4 body sprayers also to deal with so the cutout for the valve is kind of pear shaped and I have to deal with that. What is your theory on something like tiling starts?

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Bill,
  
  I normally start the tile at the bottom row. Just take your time with that and get it perfectly level and the rest of it goes fairly quickly.
  
  ↩
  - Bill
    
    Thanks you. I will do that. I have 1 more ? and then I will continue reading
    
    1. I am paranoid over my vapor barrier because I am building a new shower because of water damage and dont want to build these for a living. I siliconed the bottom edge (6 mil) to the swanstone pan (bottom of the inside lip) Tonight I will trim it back to stop it from sticking out and seen in the pan. My paranoia comes in when I think what would happen if the vapor barrier somehow comes lose and discharges whatever water hits it in the framing and floor behind the pan. Am I over thinking this? Does a lot of water seep through the porc tile and the 1/2 inch backer board? Please say no
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      How in the world, short of a meteor strike, would it come loose behind fastened backerboard? A lot of water does not get behind porcelain.
      
      ↩
DuncanDissorderly

Hi Roger, Quick question for you,recently moved into a partially unfinished house…..which is cool ,saved money,get to finish it our way etc etc.
We have a bathroom which is just roughed in studded insulated walls with a large window (48×48) overlooking the mountain behind our house (great view for oklahoma !!!) which appears to be a wood framed pella, as this window is actually going to be in the middle of the rear facing shower wall,how should I seal it ?
The entire wall in 48×90 inch shower will be tiled, dual rainshower heads, etc etc,I have a KRBS shower base and plan to hardibacker and seal the walls before tiling just wondering if you have any ideas as to how I should deal with the window lol.

thanks Duncan

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Duncan,
  
  Oklahoma has mountains???
  
  Your best bet would be a liquid topical membrane around the window frame. Redgard or hydroban painted onto it, then the tile bonded directly to it would waterproof it well.
  
  ↩
  - DuncanDissorderly
    
    Thanks Roger, Well they are not “Sound of Music” Alps ,or indeed majestic Colorado ranges,lol .But its quite an impressive little rock er hill …..for us anyway see…. “Wichita Mountains” ,if ya want a peek (peak bahahahahaha) oldest range in the US or so they’d have us believe ???
    
    Anyway ……Thanks for your help with the sealing of the window,I’ll continue onward through the fog !!!!
    
    Another Barley Pop ? Why I don’t mind if I do !!! Cheers .
    
    Carry On….All the Best. Duncan.
    
    ↩
Gary

Roger, how do I cut a holes in the shower tiles for my hot and cold water? I am using 12×12 tiles.Thanks for your help

↩
- Roger
  
  Just like this: Cutting holes in tile
  
  ↩
Larry

Hi Roger,

On another tiling project in the kitchen I am planning on tiling the wall behind the stove from counter top to the ceiling. I have cut out the plaster and screwed 1/2″ plywood to the studs and glued the plywood in the remaining area about 3′ wide to the mortar of the back of a fireplace surround to eliminate the transition from plaster to masonry in the middle of the wall. On the plywood I plan to mount 1/2″ durock in thinset and then tile on that. The question is about the adjoining wall on one end. This is one end of the dining room fireplace and is constructed of cinder block. I haven’t found any definitive information on whether a scratch coat of mortar, or lath and a scratch coat is needed, or just tiling directly to the blocks. My feeling is that a scratch coat could be beneficial for smoothing the blocks and tile adhesion. What do you think?

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Larry,
  
  A scratch coat is always a good idea to have a clean, flat surface for bonding. Lath is not necessary. Also, thinset is only necessary behind backer where it will be walked on. If it’s just hanging on a wall it’s not necessary.
  
  ↩
  - Larry
    
    Thanks!
    
    ↩
Michael

Hey Roger;

Because I’m keen on understanding physical reality ( as best I can given the “infinite” nature of this universe) I have a followup question: Since the cabinets and the backsplash are on the same plane is the reason to gap between the cabinets and backsplash waterproofing?

thanks …

↩
- Roger
  
  The back of the cabinets are on the same plane. The z-axis of the cabinets – the bottom which hangs OVER the top of the tile, is not on the same plane. That tile/cabinet junction is a change of plane.
  
  ↩
  - Michael
    
    Hey Roger;
    
    By the way, when do you apply the 511 Impregnator to the backsplash stone. I figured it was before it gets installed, but also figured I should confirm this with the FloorElf …
    
    thanks, as always …
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      Hey Michael,
      
      You can do it either way. If you do it after you grout you’ll seal the grout as well.
      
      ↩
      - Michael
        
        Hey there Roger;
        
        I applied the 511 tonight, wiping up any excess. I read that I can, and should, re-apply it for the more porous tiles, which tiles I have. But I didn’t read any time line for this second application. As I need to sleep, I decided to do the second application tomorrow. Did I blunder? Or is there no prohibition when I can re-apply. I was thinking on doing several coats, as I have this 511 and no further need after these stone tiles.
        
        Thanks, as always …
        
        ↩
        
        Roger
        
        Hey Michael,
        
        Yes, 24 hours between applications is best. You can install as many coats as you want, there is no time limit.
        
        ↩
Dick

Roger,
I am doing a backsplash and for other projects have borrowed a saw but that is not possible and have to wait a month or so.
What saw for cheap money would you recommend in the 100 -150 dollar range to make cuts. I do on and off projects for my daughters and myself.
I know you will say go 200 and above but can you steer me toward one that I may be able to use in my money range.
Thank you.
Paul

↩
- Roger
  
  Get one of these: Felker. They don’t make them anymore, but a used one will do whatever you want. I set tile with one of those saws (only) for seven years. It’s a great little portable saw. Your best bet is to stay away from the ones that have a grinder motor, they’re loud and they suck. Even the tabletop ridgids aren’t bad, but I don’t know how the durability long-term is. I have one that I use for glass, but I’ve only had it about 1 1/2 years. It works well, though.
  
  ↩
Dick

Roger,
How do I get to my prior questions and answers from you? I worked on a shower about a year ago and now I am onto backsplash . Thank you
Paul

↩
- Roger
  
  Here you go.
  
  ↩
Glenn

Roger
Is it advisable or possible to tile over painted drywall in non-moisture prone areas of my bathroom? Of course, I am not talking about my shower, I spend too much time on your website to do that!

If not, what is the best way to prepare the surface for tiling?

Glenn

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Glenn,
  
  It’s fine. If you want to rough up the paint a bit with sandpaper you’ll get a better bond
  
  ↩
Paul

Roger,

After removing the vinyl and luan, to get to what I thought was 3/4″ plywood topped with 1/2″ plywood, I discover regular 1/2″ plywood topped with 5/8″ plywood. If this is all screwed together well, can I add ditru or 1/4″ cement board and tile it? thanks paul

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Paul,
  
  Yes, you can use either.
  
  ↩
Michael

Hey Roger;

Is it ok if my backsplash tiles are tight against the bottom of the cabinets?

Also, I have an extra bag of Laticrete and some more leveling to do in the hallway. I was thinking I’d use the Laticrete in place of an SLC. Any problem with doing that?

Thanks …

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Michael,
  
  You really should have a gap there. But since you asked me that I’m gonna assume that it already is so…it’s fine.
  
  Extra bag of laticrete what? Any type of thinset will not self-level, but you can use it to level out a floor if you need to.
  
  ↩
Michael

Hello Roger;

Recently finished putting down my 154 kitchen tiles. Per your sage advise I used Ditra … wow! that stuff is so cool to work with and to look at once it’s down. I don’t think I could use anything else now … that Laticrete thinset was really nice to work with, too.

I am preparing to apply the 511 Impregnator to my stone tiles/backsplash. What method do you use to apply it?

thanks, as always, for sharing your knowledge with us …

Michael

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Michael,
  
  I normally just use a clean cotton towel to put it on and another to buff off the excess.
  
  ↩
  - Michael
    
    hey there Roger;
    
    When you say “it’s fine” that that the backsplash tiles are up against the cabinets (not the counter, which has the 1/8 gap for caulking), is that because it will not be a problem?
    
    … and I gather by your Laticrete “what” that one is not supposed to have an extra bag left over. My first tile project …
    
    as always, you’re a peach to share your expertise with us …
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      It means it may or may not be a problem but since you’ve already done it you may as well leave it.
      
      My laticrete ‘what’ meant a bag of laticrete what? Thinset, medium-bed mortar, deck mud…?
      
      ↩
      - Michael
        
        … unless you were actually asking “what” type of Laticrete … if so it was your top choice for thinset, 517 if I remember right.
        
        any-hoo …
        
        ↩
        
        Roger
        
        You mean 317? Yes, you can use that to level out some inconsistencies if you want. If you have any more questions please post them as a reply to this one so I can figure out what you’ve already asked and what you’re dealing with. I have (literally) over 10,000 questions I’ve answered here, if they aren’t kept together I tend to lose track of what you’re doing and may give you incorrect information. Thanks.
        
        ↩
        
        Michael
        
        Hey Roger;
        
        I have not put up the backsplash tile, yet. But on the initial dry fit it appeared to be tight with the cabinets. So, faced with that same predicament, what would you do, FloorElf?
        
        Because so far your advice has made me happy …
        
        so in keeping with that, what do you think is the potential problem with using Laticrete 317 to flatten a 13×3 hallway?
        
        Thanks …
        
        ↩
        
        Roger
        
        Hey Michael,
        
        Cut the top of the tile down to leave a 1/16″ – 1/8″ gap at the top and silicone it.
        
        There should me no problem with the 317 provided you don’t exceed 1/4″ thickness.
        
        ↩
Scott S.

Hi Roger, I enjoy the information you make available as I’m a novice in transition–hopefully! Most of the basics are going well as I’m attempting a full bathroom renovation, but one question?

I haven’t put up my tiles yet and have put up Durock on the wall farthest away from the shower. However, I put in with the wrong side facing out.
1) Do I need to remove all the screws and get a new sheet of Durock and replace it. 2) Should I remove it then reverse it and utilize the same sheet?

I’m just thinking it will not get very much water on it since it is the back wall, but want to do the job righ.

Thanks!

Scott

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Scott,
  
  There really isn’t a correct or incorrect face, no matter what they tell you. It’s fine.
  
  ↩
robert

will the kerdi water proofing system work with granite slabs? I want one piece of granite for the floor, and one piece of granite for each of the walls.

thanks,

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Robert,
  
  Yes, it will work with granite slabs.
  
  ↩
Tyrel

I have used Latisil Bright White caulk around my tub and its been there for about 5-6 months. The shower or tub hasn’t even been used yet due to remodel of the rest of the house. I could tell the caulk had yellowed some so I ran a new bead on a peice of cardboard and can deffinetly tell a difference between the two. Was wondering if this is common and if you see this aswell when using it?

↩
- Roger
  
  I honestly have no idea, I don’t use caulk. I use 100% silicone on everything. I do know the silicone is uv-resistant. UV rays are what yellows whites over time including newspapers, poorly glazed tiles and acrylic-based caulk.
  
  ↩
  - Tyrel
    
    I’m sorry I said caulk, Latisil is a 100 percent silcone product, I was just wondering if you used it since you use Laticretes products. I might call Laticrete and see what they have to say, its not in any sunlight at all, there’s no window in the bathroom. Maybe its normal to yellow slightly I’m not sure.
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      Not sure if I’ve ever actually used the white. I don’t grout many white showers at all. I’m sure their tech line can help you out. If you would, let me know what they tell you in case I ever have the same problem or someone else here does I know what to do.
      
      ↩
Sabine

Hello,

Water underfloor heating installed which was screeded in, then we used adhesive/sealant to cover the screed. Then tiles were laid on top this is in a 40sqm room. Then after about 4-5 weeks we put some heating on and off for few months. Now there are two rows of tiles in the most used area that have hairline cracks in the grout. We took up one tile to see what is going on. The tile came up with the adhesive solidly attached to it and the screed sealant is stuck on it too so the screed is bare and slightly dusty. We put the tile back in its place, but did not stick it down. Now we had some heating on again and out of interest I picked up the loose tile and it was all steamed up on the underside, but screed seems to be dry and looks dry too. Please advise what to do and how it could be fixed. Thank you

↩
- Roger
  
  Hi Sabine,
  
  What type of sealant did you use on the screed? When using thermal water heating it will cause condensation (steam) to build up, which dissipates if not trapped. It sounds like whatever type of sealant was used, which is not required, nor should it have been installed, does not allow the mortar bed to breath or dissipate moisture. The moisture is building up and releasing the layer of sealant from the mud.
  
  ↩
  - Sabine
    
    Hi Roger,
    
    Thank you for your comment. The sealer we used was Prodafix 878 which was advised to us by screeding company. It was tilers request for the screed to be sealed prior to tiling. If that was not the right thing to do or the right sealant please advise of the right material and what action we can take.
    Thank you
    
    http://www.premcrete.com/pdf/concrete-repair/Prodafix_878/Prodafix_878_TDS.pdf
    
    ↩
    - Roger
      
      I’m not too sure what you are speaking of when you say screed. A proper tile installation over any type of screed is over deck mud, which is screeded flat. Tile is then installed directly to the cured deck mud. Any type of sealer placed over it is what is known as a ‘bond breaker’. It will not allow the thinset to form a proper bond to the screeded substrate. If what they did was supposed to be a mud deck that is nothing near the proper method.
      
      I have never seen nor heard of any type of screeded substrate over which any type of sealant should be applied before tile. I think they may have been mixing two different methods, one for a certain type of flooring other than tile, and installed tile over it.
      
      ↩
Carl

Roger,

What exactly is the laser level you like. I see it is a Black & Decker but what model ? Is it still about $60 ?

Thanks,

Carl

↩
- Roger
  
  Hey Carl,
  
  It is the BDL310S Crossfire level. I don’t think they even make them anymore. I know I’ve seen a couple here and there on ebay for around 40-50 periodically. I now have a CST/Berger which is a bit more expensive. I like it better, though.
  
  ↩
Adam

Hey Roger,

Im looking at redoing our bathroom and i had a couple questions regarding it, its a 10′ deep by 5′ wide room with a 33″ window in the back wall, tub under the window. We have been looking at a drop in tub from rona (http://www.rona.ca/en/new-town-drop-in-bathtub—left-hand-drain) its 60″x32″x20″
1st) from what i understand this should fit right?? I understand it will be wall to wall and ill probably have to cut some wall studs and replace to get it in but it should work for waterproofing and tiling right?
2nd) Whats in the pic on the site I linked to is basically what we want to do except their room is wider and steps out from the tub and ours won’t. I want to tile the bath enclosure , apron, and the floor as well as 6″ up the walls along the floor. What ebooks of yours would cover this? I didn’t see anything obvious on flooring only tub /shower info.
3rd) should i decide im in over my head do you know of a trustworthy tile contractor in the Abbotsford/Greater Vancouver area of BC Canada?

Thanks for reading this

Adam

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- Roger
  
  Hey Adam,
  
  1. Yes, it should fit provided your bath is actually 5 feet wide. With the drywall (if present) the actual width of your room would be 61″.
  
  2. The proper manual depends on which waterproofing method you’re using. All I have done (so far) are manuals about shower waterproofing – nothing on floors yet, but I do have several posts on the site which help with that.
  
  3. I do know guys in Canada, not sure where exactly they are, though. I can find out if you end up needing someone.
  
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