Contrary to what regular readers of my blog may believe this is not a page about my personality. This is a page with photos of improper tile installations. Please do not make the same mistakes. At the bottom of this page you will find information about, well, this page and how it came about.

If you have arrived at this page without searching for something akin to ’tile butchery’ please realize these are not correct installation procedures! The captions beneath the photos are my smart-ass remarks – they are not serious advice. :D It is simply how I tear out crap like this without my head exploding. I’m certain by now this is a very long page – don’t worry, it’ll be like a train wreck – you just can’t stop looking.

And I made ‘em big – real big. Hey, don’t complain! I’m the one that had to tear all this crap out. I did it so you can partake in the full glory of what happens when your contractor either doesn’t know better or just doesn’t care. If you’re warped like me you can click on each image for a very, very large version of each photo.

This is why I have Guedo. :guedo: Enjoy.

Incorrect substrate for Ditra - that's not gonna stick!

1. Incorrect substrate for Ditra - that's not gonna stick!

Incorrect substrate for Ditra - See - No adhesion

2. Incorrect substrate for Ditra - See - No adhesion

Sloppy tile placement

3. Sloppy tile placement - spot for used razor blades I guess

Just lousy tile installation!

4. Do not install tile while drunk!

Inconsistent grout lines, lippage

5. Inconsistent grout lines, lippage

Inconsistent grout lines, lippage, not even, etc., etc...

6. Inconsistent grout lines, lippage, not even, etc., etc...

Inconsistent grout lines, lippage, not even, etc., etc...

7. Hey look! More crap work.

Just lousy installation, lack of detail

8. Just lousy installation, lack of detail - somebody didn't care.

One inch grout line against ceiling - lack of planning

9. One inch grout line against ceiling - lack of planning

Crap cuts around door jamb - not undercut

10. Crap cuts around door jamb - not undercut. Just fill that in with grout.

Crap cuts around door jamb

11. Crap cuts around door jamb - just plain sloppy

One inch grout line under, well, half of the curb????

12. One inch grout line under, well, half of the curb????

Absolutely zero coverage!

13. Absolutely zero coverage!

Half on, half off???

14. Half on, half off???

Just put those screws wherever you want

15. Just put those screws wherever you want

Just put those screws wherever you want - it'll hold

16. Just put those screws wherever you want - it'll hold

Seriously incorrect curb waterproofing technique

17. Seriously incorrect curb waterproofing technique

Pre-slope? Who needs a pre-slope?

18. Pre-slope? Who needs a pre-slope? See the big hump in the middle? That's the bottom of the drain!

The incorrect way to seal your tub spout

19. The incorrect way to seal your tub spout

Ummm, it won't stick

20. Ummm, it won't stick - really, it won't stick

Why is my grout cracking? I don't get it...

21. Why is my grout cracking? I don't get it...

Wood doesn't move, does it? That'll be fine...

22. Wood doesn't move, does it? That'll be fine...just stick the tile right to it.

Little bit of lippage

23. Little bit of lippage


24. See - lippage.

Just go ahead and tape that down, tile doesn't need to stick there.

25. Just go ahead and tape that down, tile doesn't need to stick there.

Ummm, no. It's two screws fer cryin out loud! Just remove it!

26. Ummm, no. It's two screws fer cryin out loud! Just remove it!

And still didn't get it in one piece.

27. And still didn't get it in one piece.

Just go from the backerboard straight onto chipboard - it'll be fine.

28. Just go from the backerboard straight onto chipboard - it'll be fine.

Yup, that'll stick just fine...

29. Yup, that'll stick just fine...

Just cut that wherever, nobody will notice

30. Just cut that wherever, nobody will notice

Forgot to put the bolts in? Just cut it out and put 'em back.

31. Forgot to put the bolts in? Just cut it out and put 'em back.

Nah, the tile must be flawed. The installation is perfect.

32. Nah, the tile must be flawed. The installation is perfect.

Yup, just substandard tile. No reason to see what's under it...

33. Yup, just substandard tile. No reason to see what's under it...

I guess it will transfer the crack through - if you use straight concrete

34. I guess it will transfer the crack through - if you use straight concrete

That's right - straight concrete. Just say noooooooo!

35. That's right - straight concrete. Just say no!

We don't need no steeenking pre-slope. See the shiny stuff? Water...

36. We don't need no steeenking pre-slope. See the shiny stuff? Water...See the big hump it the middle? BOTTOM of the drain flange...

Must be substandard grout. Yeah, nothing wrong with the substrate...

37. Must be substandard grout. Yeah, nothing wrong with the substrate...

Yeah see, the grout is flawed.

38. Yeah see, the grout is flawed.

Yeah see, the grout is flawed.

39. I'm tellin' ya, the grout is crap. It has nothing to do with the substrate...

Yeah see, the grout is flawed, all of it

40. See, all of it. Flawed. The grout, it's crap...

Maybe the grout wasn't flawed...

41. Yup, the grout, it...shit. Nevermind...

If you're gonna screw through the liner you may as well use pressure treated wood

42. If you're gonna screw through the liner you may as well use pressure treated lumber

Yes, that is water. Sitting stagnant on the floor, beneath everything...

43. Yes, that is water. Sitting stagnant on the floor, beneath everything...

Put a lot of screws in there, make sure it doesn't fly away...

44. Put a lot of screws in there, make sure it doesn't fly away...

And yes, that is water, again - or still

45. And yes, that is water, again - or still

I've aaaahhh, run out of words.

46. I've aaaahhh, run out of words.

I chipped it out and water rushed out - seriously. It's called releasing static pressure

47. I chipped it out and water rushed out - seriously. It's called releasing static pressure

Water will never get there, don't worry about it.

48. Water will never get there, don't worry about it.

As long as you think its sealed up tight...

49. As long as you think its sealed up tight...

See that space between the concrete and wall? It's full of water. Just sitting there.

50. See that space between the concrete and wall? It's full of water. Just sitting there.

Just nail that up there reeeeeeeeeal goooood.

51. Just nail that up there reeeeeeeeeal goooood.

How's it gonna rust, it's waterproof, right?

52. How's it gonna rust, it's waterproof, right?

Just nail it up there so it doesn't fly away - get it flat

53. Just nail it up there so it doesn't fly away - get it flat

I have searched about every online thesaurus I could find for a name for this page. Nothing really seemed to fit perfectly. I call it hackery, but outside of my particular profession the depth of that word is lost. So ‘flawed’ is what I’ve decided to go with, although it barely conveys the absolute shit work you see on this page. Below I have listed some of what I’ve found, if you can think of anything better please feel free to leave it in the comments below.

I hope I haven’t ruined your dinner.

Synonyms for ‘Shit work’

  • Batter
  • Butcher
  • Deface
  • Disfigure
  • Dismember
  • Distort
  • Lame
  • Mangle
  • Mar
  • Mess Up
  • Ravage
  • Spoil
  • Assault
  • Clobber
  • Maul
  • Mutilate
  • Pummel
  • Ruin
  • Thrash
  • Damage
  • Impair
  • Maim
  • Scar
  • Smudge
  • Sully
  • Taint
  • Tarnish

Hello Roger: I stumbled upon your website when researching rectified tiles and I have enjoyed reading all your comments. In order to avoid hack contractors, we went thru a “well known” home improvement company to renovated our washroom. The sub-contractor installed the tiles on the floor and in the shower with a runner for colour. Our concern is that many of the tiles have a lip in the center of the tile, some of which is quite high.

Just today we had a meeting with the contractor and Supervisor of the “well known” company and we were told that the lip is within standard guidelines when installing rectified tiles. We were surprised by this because if we had known that this eyesore might occur we might have chosen none rectified tiles. We were told quite bluntly that we as consumers should have done our research to know that there are differences in tiles. How many people out there know that there is a difference in tiles?

The contractor put two of the extra tiles together to show us that between the tiles there is a slight rise in the center which creates the lip when installed.

After some heated discussions, the contractor suggested that they could redo the tub/shower tiles at our cost and if we disagreed it might go into legal action.

My question to you, is this a standard issues with rectified tiles or a manufacturing problem. How far can we take this?

Thank you for your time.



Hi Maria,

There are standards to allowable cupping in a porcelain tile. You did not say how big your tiles are, but the bigger the tile the more cupping allowable. There is also allowable amounts of lippage for the installation itself, it’s normally about the thickness of a credit card. It is not an issue with all rectified tile.

That said, there are methods to overcome even allowable lippage. This also should have been brought to your attention by both the tile company as well as the contractor – THEY ARE THE PROFESSIONALS! That irritates the hell out of me. It’s like a brain surgeon telling you ‘well, you should have researched and known that you would lose the use of your legs – you didn’t expect ME to break that news to you, did you?’ It’s bullshit.

Some lippage absolutely can not be avoided, it’s the nature of manufactured tile and physics. But installed correctly it should never be seen unless you are down on your hands and knees looking for it. You definitely should not be able to see it just by looking at the tile unless you have light shining directly perpendicular to it or something similar.



hello, i have a question to ask. The previous home owners place tile accent inlays in the kitchen floor. They are installed wrong, to high and i trip on them all the time. My question is, they cut the floor tiles to fit an accent inlay that is 2 inches in size, but the inlays they used are 2 1/2 inches. Can i take them out and replace with the correct size accent tile? Thank you, Emily



Hi Emily,

Yes you can. No problem with that at all.



Hi Roger,

Just want to make sure my work doesn’t end up on this page . . . :-)

I’m not sure how to tile around the toilet flange . . . I’m using Ditra and wonder if I tile up to the 3″ pipe, set the tile on top of the Ditra, then the flange on top of the Ditra and the tile. Or is there another way (better way, correct way) to do it?





Hi Darrell,

That actually is the correct way to do it. :)



I want to tile my back splash in my kitchen. The area below one of the windows is slightly inset from the rest of the drywall. How can I even this out prior to tiling?



Hi Merry,

It depends on how ‘slightly inset’ it is. If it’s 1/8″ or smaller you can just make up for it with thinset. If it’s more you can add layers of drywall or backerboard to bring it flush.


John G

I was hoping I could ask you for some advice. I recently bought a home from a DIYer whose quality of work seems to be decent. He added a basement bathroom, with a mosaic tiled shower floor and tiled walls. The tiled walls seem to have been done well; my concern is with the shower floor. While cleaning a while back I noticed that he had used a mixture of grout, and silicone mixed with grout as a fill-in, in the floor. I recently removed the silicon stuff (it was cracking even with the mild cleaner I was using) and re-grouted it. Only a month after, I noticed very tiny cracks in the grout (in the grout I filled in) as well as a couple of areas where he had grouted. I will admit that it was my first time grouting so I may have added a little bit more water than I should have, After having gone through your blog, am I correct to assume that he probably did not lay the floor base correctly? I wonder why he even used a silicone type material to begin with where anyone else would’ve used grout, perhaps he had issues with cracking before? If so, is my only option to tear down the floor and have it done properly? Should I try my luck and properly remove all the old grout and re-grout it? Should I try epoxy?
Thank you for your help



Hi John,

It would be my guess that silicone was used because there were issues with cracking before. If it’s doing the same thing then it’s something in the substrate. Unless your grout began shrinking and pulling away from the sides within 24 hours of grouting it then it’s not due to too much water. Something in the substrate is incorrect and leading to movement. The only way to fix that is to remove the shower floor and rebuild it properly. Regrouting and using epoxy grout will do the same thing, it’ll still crack (maybe the tile rather than the grout if epoxy is used, depends on which is stronger, but something will crack).


Patricia Curry

How about pitiful, or deporable, or contemptable. Better yet, purloined, filched, or outright stealing.

Whatever, I love your blog. And so very helpful. I, will take your notes to heart. However, my husband will blunder about anyway and I will still have to reference your intellect to “fix” the epic failures and to be able to tell him “I told you so!”

Bravo, good man. Bravo.



Well, c’mon back once he finishes blundering about and we’ll figure out what you need to fix. :D


Irina and Shar

Have you worked with GreenSkin, and do you recommend it (for rooms with drips and spills but not constant water)? We currently have a solid cement slab, which has tongue-and-groove Dricore on top (OSB on top of high-density-plastic). We are planning on using GreenSkin (peel-and-stick anti-fracture and water-resistant isolation membrane designed to stick to wood subloors, and thinset on top). We’re going to stabilize the Dricore (using their recommended stabilization method — five 2 3/4 inch concrete screws in each 2×2 piece), and then we’ll cover the Dricore OSB with a water-based primer to improve adhesion. Are Dricore and GreenSkin compatible, as a base for thinset/tile? This will be for an entryway, which needs to be water-resistant enough for snow-boot-removal, but doesn’t have to be as water-proof as a shower-pan.



Hi Irina and Shar,

Greenskin is good stuff. I would highly recommend the primer sold specifically for greenskin over your dricore. It is tenacious stuff and is formulated specifically for the greenskin adhesive.



I’m so afraid my tile job is going to end up on your page! See pic 13 and 14… I did that in my bathroom when I laid down my own tile (not nearly as bad as they did) The tile was really long and some of the corners have no support up under them. I want to fix this if I can before I grout because the tiles I am most concerned with are in the “high traffic” area of the floor. I’m nervous that the tiles will crack if there isn’t any of the goop up under parts of them. So I’m toying with the idea of mixing up the thinset -or whatever you call that peanut butter consistency goop stuff you stick under the tile and putting it in a pastry type bag and squirting it up under the tile. You are either thinking Genius! or, why is it when women do home improvement projects the lines between professional tools and cake decorating supplies become blurred?



Hi Stephanie,

It is genius! That’s why I do it when I need to add thinset under a tile edge. :D



I had a family friend update my bathroom for me (I paid him about $1000). He isn’t in contruction but is more of a jack of all trades. He’s done all the work on his house and he has a nice house and bathroom. Clearly I should have gotten on my hands and knees and inspected his tile floors.

I wanted nice full, tight, clean grout lines.
Its been a day since he finished my bathroom floor and the grout job is horrible, nevermind the caulking job around the toilet and along the bathtub/floor (I’ll have to remove and tackle that myself).

I dont know if he used to much water (the grout also looks light than on the box) or should have used sanded grout or wiped the tile clean of grout too soon?

Besides staining our friendship and my close relationship with his wife, what can I do to fix this?

Thanks in advance for your advice,



Hi Amy,

The first thing that needs to be done is removing the grout to a minimum of 2/3 the depth of the tile. If the grout lines are wide enough you can use sanded grout, it’s normally a better option. Any of the things you mentioned can lead to splotchy colored grout and low grout lines.


Eugene Caldwell

Well, I, too, have seen this crap for years.I must say that as long as drunks like these are laying tile, I will always have work. I hate to say it but there are so, so many people that actually think they can do this trade ( and do it well ) The problem is they do it like the pictures here. No knowledge at all about how water works inside a stall. I did laugh at your comments and , really, what can you say. It is a disaster to the whole industry. You have more patience than I would even with some of the questions below. I see disasters coming even with some of the projects your readers are going to try. Oh, well, we can’t do them all. Do you like the kerdi system ??



Hey Eugene,

One of the things that keeps this site going is the fact that, although these are mostly diy’ers, they are at least researching and asking questions first. Something most of these hacks don’t bother to do. I do like the kerdi system. I don’t use the pans, but the kerdi-board and kerdi are ALWAYS in my truck and in most of the showers I build.


Stanley Grivjack

Hey Roger,
Great site, great resource. Just had new rectified tile put down, and decided to clean the grout lines to get rid of the dust residue, only to find that even with scrubbing with a terrycloth towel, the grout is coming out too. Does this mean the sanded grout wasnt mixed properly?



Hi Stanley,

It normally indicates that the grout was mixed with way too much water.


Lynne Hartwell

Can you please tell me if it is normal to feel a little moisture between liner and concrete slab. We had a leaking shower and water had collected high enough to flow over 6 inch liner at the end of the shower. We have since regrouted and sealed floor and do not seem to be getting any more water, but we removed piece of wall behind shower and are checking for any water collecting there. There is what seems to a little moisture is this normal or could it be water left over from original situation? Is there any way to determine which it is and is there a way to dry it out completely without removing tiles? I am checking after each shower and for a week there seems to be no new water showing up. Thank you for any advice you can offer me :)



Hi Lynne,

Regrouting and sealing your floor will not stop if from leaking. If your shower floor was leaking then all you’ve done is slow the leak temporarily. If there is still water there it’s from the leak, it’s just leaking more slowly now (for a while).



You can add FUBAR. F’ed Up Beyond All Recognition.


Bill V

First This has been a great site, and your other information I have found elsewhere on the web has been helpful too.
My specific problem and question:
We recently bought an older home (1960′s period). As they say it has good bones but the parquet tile floor in the entryway had issues. We decided we wanted to replace it with 17.75×17.75 ceramic tiles. We removed the old parquet tile to find sheet vinyl underneath. Since the vinyl was cracked and was lifting in a number of places we removed it too. Much of it was not really attached to the plywood underlayment. There was a “glue” but it had not adhered to the vinyl backing.
The underlayment is 2 layers of plywood totalling 1 ½” in thickness. The joists are 16” on center and actual dimensions of the joists are 2-⅝” x 9 ½”.
In an earlier post someone mentioned that the homeowner had removed the vinyl leaving the “grey paper” behind. I believe your advice was that the paper needed to be removed or new plywood added because the water based nature of the modified quickset would not allow the Ditra to adhere properly.
I have all of the vinyl up, including all of the backing, but there is still a waxy feeling on the from the original glue they used. I did scrape some up and it doesn’t seem to dissolve in water.
Do you think I can apply the Ditra and the modified thinset to the floor as is? If not can I sand the surface? The transition to the other floors off of the foyer only gives me about ⅛” so I really can not add yet another layer of plywood for fear of having a really obnoxious trip point. If I need to I can pull up the top layer of plywood and lay new but that will be a major effort I would rather avoid.

Thanks, Bill



Hi Bill,

You can sand it down. You need to get it to the point where when you splash some water onto it the floor will soak the water in almost immediately, like on a bare piece of plywood. Once it does that the thinset will bond to it just fine.



Hello Roger,
First let me say thanks for all your great work and information on this very informative site; how do you find time to relax and drink chocolate milk with all your reply/website time and actual tile work and still get your sleep in?
Is it OK to do a traditional mud bed (concrete slab, thinset, pre-slope, 40MIL PVC waterproof liner, finish slope bed, thinset and tile/grout) along with shower walls using Hardibacker with the RedGuard topical liquid waterproofing? I plan to also build in a couple of 3 1/2″ deep niche’s. If so, how do you handle the joint where the wall meets the pan? Is it just the overlap of the RedGuarded Hardibacker to the 40MIL PVC down to I/8″ of the shower floor tile? or 1/8″ of the finish mud top slope with silicone in the 1/8″ gap sealing it?
I did not see a single e-book on waterproofing that covered this particular combination, just wondering how to connect the 2 methods.
Also, do you use 2-3 layers of RedGuard totally without tape/mesh reinforcement even at change of plane/corners/niche building or not?
Is RedGuard your preferred liquid WP material?
About how many Gal. will it take for 3 coats on my shower walls (84″T X 124″W (32″+60″+32″)?
Thanks so much for your time and knowledge, Bob R.



Hi Bob,

Sorry, you ended up in the spam folder for some reason. You trying to sell me viagra or something? :D

Yes, traditional floor and topical walls are fine. The redgard is painted to the bottom of the wall substrate, the floor liner goes a minimum of three inches above the finished height of the curb behind the wall. The overlap is the only transition needed. The topical walls and traditional floor manual is for that combination. I do not use tape and mud in the niches, but you can if you want to. It won’t hurt anything. I actually prefer hydroban over redgard. Two gallons should do it (1 1/2 SHOULD do it, but, you know… :D ).



Hi Roger,

What can one do when after a “professional” company has tiled the floors, but all of the casings on the doors are much to high off the ground? Their solution was to fill the gap between the floor and casings with a thick bead of silicone. It looks pretty tacky, and unprofessional.





Hi Nicole,

Unfortunately the only solution is to replace the casings. I would contact the manager or supervisor at the company and explain what was done and tell them you need it taken care of. It’s unacceptable.



What should I expect a subcontractor to charge per square foot for a bathroom shower walls and floor? The tiles are large aprox 12x24and the pattern in on the floor is herring bone.
Your web site is great!!



Hi Dave,

That is one of the questions around here I can’t answer. It depends on a lot of factors, none of which have anything at all to do with my business model or location. I honestly have no idea. I can’t even quote prices to someone looking to hire me over the phone – I need to see the job first to be even remotely accurate.



So… I demo’d a shower which was tile on greenboard. Shaking my head. Down to studs. Paid a guy to come in and replace the fiberglass floor pan, because I thought that was the only way to do a waterproof shower floor. It’s a second floor shower. So he did it, told me to get pressure treated lumber for the curb (yes, I’ve downloaded all your books and read them so I know that’s a non-starter), but he installed no preslope. So the floor pan is there, up the wall about a foot all the way around, and beautifully installed over the shower seat as well. But, no preslope, and it’s wrapped entirely over the curb of pressure treated wood. There is about two inches clearance remaining between the fiberglass floor and the top of the existing drain. Can I just install the preslope over the fiberglass? And then go from there with the rest of the installation? In essence, creating two waterproof layers? Or can I avoid doing a second waterproof layer entirely if I just slope the deck mud on top of the fiberglass? I’m planning on using hardiebacker with redguard for the walls… but we can get to that after I figure this out. Oh, and can I get away with pressure treated wood encased in fiberglass – it doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere…. or if I have to pull it out, which would definitely goof up the integrity of the floor pan as it exists now… thanks in advance!



Hi Todd,

I’m not that familiar with fiberglass waterproofing in pans. I do know that there are two ways to slope them, one being the pre-slope and the other with the fiberglass itself sloped. Is the fiberglass layer on the floor sloped toward the drain or is it flat? If it’s sloped it’s fine, if flat it isn’t. There needs to be a slope there. I also don’t know how pt wood acts beneath fiberglass. It would be best (if it’s flat) to remove it and begin with a traditional build. Although building one on top of it will create a double layer, it may very well be just fine with fiberglass provided you can still properly attach the liner to the drain.



Thanks very much, fiberglass is flat, and I’ll just start with that and create a double layer but get rid of the curb and start over in that section. Should be plenty of room for the liner drain connection, but I’ll keep my eye on that. I really appreciate the very fast feedback! Enjoyed reading your books, and if I decide to go with an installer instead of doing it myself, I will at least know the questions to ask.


Jennifer Y.

Hi Roger,

I am thinking maybe I can do the dinning room floor myself. Is it necessary to tape all the cement board (wonder board seams) with fiber glass tape??? If I should do this, what else do I need to do???

Lippage can be caused by not waiting for the mortar (thinset to dry) before grouting???? How long you think I should wait before doing grouting if I decide to do my dinning room floor myself?

Have you used a self leveling product sold at Home Depot?? I was told by the flooring guy there that the product self levels your floor. Just follow the instructions on the bag and dump it on your floor. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Both of my bathroom floors have grout joints that are either cracked and/or lumpy bumpy, and some looks more like a ditch!!!!!!!
All that is caused by using non sand grout on 1/4″ grout joint and not mixing it properly??? I have different shade of grout joints.

How can I remove mortar and grout from my wall and vanity??? I cannot afford to buy two new vanities. This was caused by the super sloppy and careless guy that I hired to do tiling on my floor.



Hi Jennifer,

No reason at all you can’t do it yourself. Yes, you need to tape and mud all seams. There also needs to be thinset beneath the backerboard.

Lippage CAN NOT be caused by not waiting for the mortar to dry long enough. If you try to grout right after you’re done setting then yes, you can move tiles. But waiting 24 hours before grout is normally more than long enough.

Yes, I have used custom’s slc, it’s one of the best. It does get spendy, though, if you have a lot of floor.

Non-sanded grout used where sanded should have been is the biggest reason, improper mixing is another. Different shades is indicative of too much water when cleaning up, or improper mixing.

Chip it off with your fingernail or a plastic putty knife. It may or may not scratch the vanity, always a chance. Normally not, though, as it isn’t burned into the surface, usually just ‘splashed’ onto it.


Joe C

What’s the best way to avoid the water collection in pictures 37-46? Obviously I wouldn’t drive any fasteners through the top or inside of the pan liner, but I was planning on building a 3-sided backer board cap to place on top of the liner on the curb as a substrate for the curb tiles. Is this okay? or should I go with forming lath and mudding it? Any advice is appreciated.



Hi Joe,

You NEED to use mud and lath over the curb with a liner beneath it. You CAN NOT use backerboard.


Joe C

Thanks for the reply. I suspected this was the case, but I wasn’t sure why – is it because the backerboard isn’t strong enough to hold the load placed on the curb? Or is it some other sinister reason? Thanks!



It is because there is no way to solidly attach backer to the curb without compromising the liner. Even if you build a ‘U’ shaped cap for it there will be hollow areas beneath it and it will not be fully supported, which is not acceptable for your tile.


Jennifer Y.

So there are many idiots that don’t know how to install tiles properly.
Damn what a waste of material. Thanks for putting up the pictures, so some of us will know how bad it can be. I really wish I did some research before hiring this guy from Craigslist. I wish I saw this more than a week and 1/2 ago, then I would be less trusting. Ouch!

What would you recommend for me to do. Home Depot will be at our vacant house to measure the bathrooms square footage. If the subfloor is in good condition, then can the contractor use cement boards directly on top of the subfloor, then add tiles (using mortar). Right now my bathroom floors are raised too high. One bathroom floor is rasied to 1.3″ at the door jam and then it goes higher up. The other bathroom is pretty mich the same, but a slight lower. Before the tiles were lay more tha a week ago, there was the subfloor, then a plywood board, and the linoneum on top of that. I don’t know exactly how many layers are under my plywood board, but I am assuming another plywood board (which is called the subfloor). I am very new to this kind of stuff. Please give any advise you can.



Those floors should be taken down to the original plywood or osb – the layer directly over the joists. If the plywood layer above that is in good shape then yes, they can install backer (with thinset beneath it) over that. Normally even with carpet on the other side of your transition you should have about a 1/2″ difference. There seems to be a lot of unneeded extra layers on your floor.


Jennifer Y.

Just curious how much you paid this idiot to lower your property value??? How did you find this guy that done such a horrible job?
Just the materials for your renovation must be super expensive. I like those tiles you chose. I am giving this website to friends and relatives , so they can see how horrible things can turn out to be. Thanks for posting pictures.



Hi Jennifer,

To whom are you asking about the idiot? Photos on this page are an extremely minute portion of showers that I’ve torn out of various properties. Are you asking someone specific, or just a general inquiry about these photos?



Our shower has tiles on the wall and floor, and the floor tiles are small and look nice. My question is: How can I remove this crappy looking vinyl covering that someone covered the floor tiles with. A lot of it has cracked and come off, but what is still there is really stuck down. (SO UGLY) I would like to remove it since the tiles look nice, but I’m not having much luck getting it to come loose. Is there any chemical that would work to loosen it up so that I can scrape it off easily. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you



Hi Linda,

Take a heat gun or hair dryer and heat a portion up really well. It’ll likely peel right off. Most vinyl adhesives soften with heat.



Thank you for the information. I will try this.


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