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	<title>Comments on: Why is my Floor Grout Cracking?</title>
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	<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking</link>
	<description>Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!)</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 02:23:29 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-895</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Aug 2010 03:54:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-895</guid>
		<description>Hi Theresa, 

This could be one of two things. It could be either incorrectly mixed grout or movement in the substrate. Since you said he has already replaced some of it and the same thing happened I think it is the latter of the two. That would mean the tile should be taken out and replaced on a properly prepared substrate. 95% of the time - no, you cannot reuse tile that has already been installed. 

You should get a third party to take a look at it and see what is happening. It&#039;s really the only way to get a definitive answer as to what is actually happening.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Theresa, </p>
<p>This could be one of two things. It could be either incorrectly mixed grout or movement in the substrate. Since you said he has already replaced some of it and the same thing happened I think it is the latter of the two. That would mean the tile should be taken out and replaced on a properly prepared substrate. 95% of the time &#8211; no, you cannot reuse tile that has already been installed. </p>
<p>You should get a third party to take a look at it and see what is happening. It&#8217;s really the only way to get a definitive answer as to what is actually happening.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-894</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Aug 2010 03:47:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-894</guid>
		<description>Hi Marie,

It sounds like a combination of two things causing your grout problems - the house settling being neither of them. :D

I could be wrong (just ask my wife - she&#039;ll tell you) but it sounds like you did not use fiberglass mesh tape over the seams in the backerboard - that&#039;s why it&#039;s cracking along the seams. The individual pieces are moving independently. And it also sounds as if you did not place thinset beneath the backerboards to fully support it. 

Unfortunately the only viable solution is to start over and properly prepare the substrate with thinset beneath the backerboard and alkali-resistant mesh tape over all the seams to give you a monolithic, fully supported substrate for your tile installation. If the substrate moves or is not fully supported the grout will crack, tiles will become loose and begin to move and, eventually, tile will start to crack.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Marie,</p>
<p>It sounds like a combination of two things causing your grout problems &#8211; the house settling being neither of them. <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif' alt=':D' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>I could be wrong (just ask my wife &#8211; she&#8217;ll tell you) but it sounds like you did not use fiberglass mesh tape over the seams in the backerboard &#8211; that&#8217;s why it&#8217;s cracking along the seams. The individual pieces are moving independently. And it also sounds as if you did not place thinset beneath the backerboards to fully support it. </p>
<p>Unfortunately the only viable solution is to start over and properly prepare the substrate with thinset beneath the backerboard and alkali-resistant mesh tape over all the seams to give you a monolithic, fully supported substrate for your tile installation. If the substrate moves or is not fully supported the grout will crack, tiles will become loose and begin to move and, eventually, tile will start to crack.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Theresa</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-888</link>
		<dc:creator>Theresa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Aug 2010 02:06:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-888</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve had some tiling done in back entry way, bathroom and laundry room.  I&#039;m finding small hair line cracks all over.  I had a professional Tiler put it in...he fixed one area...took the grout out and put it back in.  Now, I&#039;m finding little cracks all over the floor, including the area that he fixed!!!!  Should I get a second opinion from another tile installer....should I have him just replace all the grout...or should I have him redo all of it?  Can you reuse tile that has already been layed or would I have to buy new tile?

Theresa</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve had some tiling done in back entry way, bathroom and laundry room.  I&#8217;m finding small hair line cracks all over.  I had a professional Tiler put it in&#8230;he fixed one area&#8230;took the grout out and put it back in.  Now, I&#8217;m finding little cracks all over the floor, including the area that he fixed!!!!  Should I get a second opinion from another tile installer&#8230;.should I have him just replace all the grout&#8230;or should I have him redo all of it?  Can you reuse tile that has already been layed or would I have to buy new tile?</p>
<p>Theresa</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Marie</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-887</link>
		<dc:creator>Marie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2010 22:00:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-887</guid>
		<description>Hi Steve,

My husband and I installed a tile floor in our bathroom over a year ago. We used 3/8 concrete backerboard screwed down to the subfloor every 6 inches, 1/4 by 12 inch ceramic tile with sanded grout lines 1/4 wide, with thinset very carefully mixed to medium-thick pancake batter consistency. Our grout lines are starting to crack along the entire length of the seams, and one area of grout in a traffic way has started to come up in little chunks. Certain tiles are definitely loose, and we really need to get this fixed!  Our house is less than 10 years old, and is still settling, so we think that is probably the cause. How can we go about fixing these grout lines? Is there any way to allow for settling?

Thanks,
Marie</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Steve,</p>
<p>My husband and I installed a tile floor in our bathroom over a year ago. We used 3/8 concrete backerboard screwed down to the subfloor every 6 inches, 1/4 by 12 inch ceramic tile with sanded grout lines 1/4 wide, with thinset very carefully mixed to medium-thick pancake batter consistency. Our grout lines are starting to crack along the entire length of the seams, and one area of grout in a traffic way has started to come up in little chunks. Certain tiles are definitely loose, and we really need to get this fixed!  Our house is less than 10 years old, and is still settling, so we think that is probably the cause. How can we go about fixing these grout lines? Is there any way to allow for settling?</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Marie</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-836</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jul 2010 23:52:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-836</guid>
		<description>Hey Shawn,

The best indicator of movement is the grout actually cracking out of the joint in pieces or turning to powder from being literally ground into dust from the tiles rubbing against it when they are stepped upon. If the grout is still in one piece (ie none has cracked out in chunks) then it&#039;s likely that it is only shrinking. If there was not &#039;soggy&#039; or brittle, soft plywood under any of the areas and you placed mortar beneath the backerboard before screwing it down it is probably not movement.

The two things that you&#039;ve described that lead me to believe it is shrinking is that they are &#039;cracking&#039; in a straight line and only against the tile edge and the fact that you mixed more water with your grout. If it were due to movement the straight line would be very rare - it&#039;ll crack all over the place randomly. It would be best to replace it all but you may be fine just replacing what is shrinking. If you do that, though, be aware that more of it may shrink in a different area later on down the road.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Shawn,</p>
<p>The best indicator of movement is the grout actually cracking out of the joint in pieces or turning to powder from being literally ground into dust from the tiles rubbing against it when they are stepped upon. If the grout is still in one piece (ie none has cracked out in chunks) then it&#8217;s likely that it is only shrinking. If there was not &#8216;soggy&#8217; or brittle, soft plywood under any of the areas and you placed mortar beneath the backerboard before screwing it down it is probably not movement.</p>
<p>The two things that you&#8217;ve described that lead me to believe it is shrinking is that they are &#8216;cracking&#8217; in a straight line and only against the tile edge and the fact that you mixed more water with your grout. If it were due to movement the straight line would be very rare &#8211; it&#8217;ll crack all over the place randomly. It would be best to replace it all but you may be fine just replacing what is shrinking. If you do that, though, be aware that more of it may shrink in a different area later on down the road.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Shawn</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-835</link>
		<dc:creator>Shawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jul 2010 23:08:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-835</guid>
		<description>I used a sanded grout with polymer by Keracolor, and used 1/4&quot; spacers.  How would I be able to tell if there is movement?  I layed hardiebacker cement board over plywood, and put screws in per manufaturer spec in an 8&quot; by 8&quot; pattern throughout each peice of backer board.  I feel confident that I used enough mortar under each tile.  It has only been 2 months should I give it more time to see if it begins to crack in other places?  Or is there already enough evidence that it is indeed pulling away due to the dreaded shrinkage.  If this is the problem do I have to replace all the grouting or just where the grout is pulling away.  Thanks allot for help, I really appreciate it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I used a sanded grout with polymer by Keracolor, and used 1/4&#8243; spacers.  How would I be able to tell if there is movement?  I layed hardiebacker cement board over plywood, and put screws in per manufaturer spec in an 8&#8243; by 8&#8243; pattern throughout each peice of backer board.  I feel confident that I used enough mortar under each tile.  It has only been 2 months should I give it more time to see if it begins to crack in other places?  Or is there already enough evidence that it is indeed pulling away due to the dreaded shrinkage.  If this is the problem do I have to replace all the grouting or just where the grout is pulling away.  Thanks allot for help, I really appreciate it.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-833</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jul 2010 01:20:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-833</guid>
		<description>Hi Shawn,

You did not state whether you used sanded or unsanded grout for your floors. If it is sanded grout and your grout lines are wider than 1/16&quot; then it should be removed and replaced with sanded grout. If you used sanded (and added water to the mix) it may have indeed shrunk on you. You need to ensure there is no movement in the tile but if it is simply pulling away from the tile and not crumbling or turning to powder it sounds like shrinking to me.

The correct and best way to fix it would be to remove all that grout and replace it with new grout. Never add more water to the grout once you mix it, it weakens the grout and will cause shrinkage (that&#039;s a word, Seinfeld says so). I know it&#039;s counter-intuitive for us guys but follow the mixing directions on the bag - including the slaking. If followed correctly you should have plenty of time to get it grouted without it getting hard in the bucket.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Shawn,</p>
<p>You did not state whether you used sanded or unsanded grout for your floors. If it is sanded grout and your grout lines are wider than 1/16&#8243; then it should be removed and replaced with sanded grout. If you used sanded (and added water to the mix) it may have indeed shrunk on you. You need to ensure there is no movement in the tile but if it is simply pulling away from the tile and not crumbling or turning to powder it sounds like shrinking to me.</p>
<p>The correct and best way to fix it would be to remove all that grout and replace it with new grout. Never add more water to the grout once you mix it, it weakens the grout and will cause shrinkage (that&#8217;s a word, Seinfeld says so). I know it&#8217;s counter-intuitive for us guys but follow the mixing directions on the bag &#8211; including the slaking. If followed correctly you should have plenty of time to get it grouted without it getting hard in the bucket.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Shawn</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-831</link>
		<dc:creator>Shawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Jul 2010 13:48:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-831</guid>
		<description>I installed new tile floors in my upstairs bathrooms the first week of May 2010.  I recently noticed the grout lines are cracking in both bathrooms.  The grout is cracking along a line from end to end in a series of tiles that stretches from wall to wall.  They differ in lengths from 3 to 6 feet.  I&#039;ve looked online at similiar situations.  I&#039;ve come to the conclusion that I didn&#039;t pack the grout lines deep enough, and/or when I was grouting I was using grout that had hardened and I would add water to make it the right consistency.  In speaking with a friend I&#039;ve come to find out that is a bad idea.  The grout is not crumbling it is actually cracking away from the edge of the tiles and it runs from end to end consistently.  I am starting to think I did not pack it in enough.  What do you think, and how should I fix it?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I installed new tile floors in my upstairs bathrooms the first week of May 2010.  I recently noticed the grout lines are cracking in both bathrooms.  The grout is cracking along a line from end to end in a series of tiles that stretches from wall to wall.  They differ in lengths from 3 to 6 feet.  I&#8217;ve looked online at similiar situations.  I&#8217;ve come to the conclusion that I didn&#8217;t pack the grout lines deep enough, and/or when I was grouting I was using grout that had hardened and I would add water to make it the right consistency.  In speaking with a friend I&#8217;ve come to find out that is a bad idea.  The grout is not crumbling it is actually cracking away from the edge of the tiles and it runs from end to end consistently.  I am starting to think I did not pack it in enough.  What do you think, and how should I fix it?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-670</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 16:38:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-670</guid>
		<description>Hi Steve,

Tiled decks are a very special animal. When transitioning from one material (tile) to another (corrugated roofing) there needs to be a movement joint of some type starting below the tile in the form of an anti-fracture membrane or uncoupling membrane, and transferred through all the way to the top plane of both materials. The upper portion of this would be either a 100% silicone or a urethane-based sealant - grout will not do it. It is cracking for the same reason as most - movement.

Any joint between two different substrates needs to allow for different expansion and contraction of the two materials - they will move differently. The tile may (will) expand more slowly and less than the corrugated roofing as it gets warmer. The problem has nothing to do with water unless freezing is an issue. It has to do with movement control. You need to allow for a different expansion rate at that joint between two materials.

Drywall tape will do nothing for you. The last row of tile should be removed, an anti-fracture membrane installed, and the tile replaced, then that joint needs to be caulked with a flexible sealant. You have three different things pushing on your grout from different directions and at different pressures - no type of regular grout will withstand that. It needs flexibility. You can attempt to simply remove the grout and fill it with a flexible sealant instead without the anti-fracture membrane but in the long term it may not last - I don&#039;t know without having specifics about your particular installation. Go ahead and try the flexible sealant, if your tile was correctly installed you should be fine.

Now, with all that said (typed), if you have a leak in that porch and it is compromising the ceiling no amount of sealer will be a permanent solution - your tile is installed incorrectly. When correctly installed your porch should have been absolutely waterproof before a piece of tile was touched. Substrates like porches over living areas and showers are always waterproofed at the substrate. You should be installing tile essentially in or on a waterproof box. If you are attempting to waterproof it by placing materials or products over the top of your tile it is incorrectly installed.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Steve,</p>
<p>Tiled decks are a very special animal. When transitioning from one material (tile) to another (corrugated roofing) there needs to be a movement joint of some type starting below the tile in the form of an anti-fracture membrane or uncoupling membrane, and transferred through all the way to the top plane of both materials. The upper portion of this would be either a 100% silicone or a urethane-based sealant &#8211; grout will not do it. It is cracking for the same reason as most &#8211; movement.</p>
<p>Any joint between two different substrates needs to allow for different expansion and contraction of the two materials &#8211; they will move differently. The tile may (will) expand more slowly and less than the corrugated roofing as it gets warmer. The problem has nothing to do with water unless freezing is an issue. It has to do with movement control. You need to allow for a different expansion rate at that joint between two materials.</p>
<p>Drywall tape will do nothing for you. The last row of tile should be removed, an anti-fracture membrane installed, and the tile replaced, then that joint needs to be caulked with a flexible sealant. You have three different things pushing on your grout from different directions and at different pressures &#8211; no type of regular grout will withstand that. It needs flexibility. You can attempt to simply remove the grout and fill it with a flexible sealant instead without the anti-fracture membrane but in the long term it may not last &#8211; I don&#8217;t know without having specifics about your particular installation. Go ahead and try the flexible sealant, if your tile was correctly installed you should be fine.</p>
<p>Now, with all that said (typed), if you have a leak in that porch and it is compromising the ceiling no amount of sealer will be a permanent solution &#8211; your tile is installed incorrectly. When correctly installed your porch should have been absolutely waterproof before a piece of tile was touched. Substrates like porches over living areas and showers are always waterproofed at the substrate. You should be installing tile essentially in or on a waterproof box. If you are attempting to waterproof it by placing materials or products over the top of your tile it is incorrectly installed.</p>
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		<title>By: Steve Grodin</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/why-is-my-floorgrout-cracking/comment-page-1#comment-669</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve Grodin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 16:21:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=646#comment-669</guid>
		<description>I have a tiled upper deck above rooms below. I have sealed the grout which the contractor failed to do and stopped most of the rain from causing damage below. I now have a prolem where the open tile deck ends and a metal corrigated roofing starts I have repeadedly used grout but after drying it cracks. Do you reccomend a drywall tape before caulking or grouting this seam? It is about 20 feet long and about a quarter inch wide gap. Regards Steve</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a tiled upper deck above rooms below. I have sealed the grout which the contractor failed to do and stopped most of the rain from causing damage below. I now have a prolem where the open tile deck ends and a metal corrigated roofing starts I have repeadedly used grout but after drying it cracks. Do you reccomend a drywall tape before caulking or grouting this seam? It is about 20 feet long and about a quarter inch wide gap. Regards Steve</p>
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