Which tile to choose depends mostly upon where you plan to install it and, of course, whether or not is has the look you want for that specific application.For the former I will explain several things to take into consideration. The latter is entirely up to you (unless you’re the husband, in which case it’s up to your wife). So before you choose your tile you need to consider a couple of things.
Where are you installing the tile?
If it will be installed on a wall in a non-wet area, you do not need to worry about much except whether or not you like the way it looks. A non-wet area is defined as an area that is not regularly exposed to a significant amount of water. Wainscots, backsplashes, and fireplaces are examples on non-wet areas.
If it will be installed in a wet area, such as a shower, you need to take into consideration the absorption rate of the tile to an extent. Although it is not that dire to consider this, the lower the percentage of absorption, the better it will be for your application.
You can install travertine in a shower but porcelain will be easier to take care of. An application such as a steam shower or exterior patio would suggest a lower absorption rate. A good rule of thumb is the higher the chance of exposure to moisture and temperature, the lower the absorption rate you want.
If the tile will be installed on a floor you will also want to consider what is called the Static Coefficient of Friction. That’s just a big phrase to describe how slippery a tile is.
This number will (usually) be below one. Just consider this number to be between 1 and 10. For instance, consider a SCOF (Static Coefficient of Friction) or COF of 0.5 to be a 5. This is the number which most standards consider “slip resistant”.The higher the number, the less slippery it will be.
Tile will have two COF numbers – one for wet and one for dry. You may want to consider both numbers for an application such as a bathroom or shower floor or a patio. Consider a 1 (0.1) to be akin to ice and a 10 (1.0) to be sandpaper.
Other factors to take into consideration include the size of the tile as well as the size of the grout lines (to a smaller degree). If you have 2 inch by 2 inch tile with fairly large grout lines, such as a shower floor mosaic, it will have more friction than 18 X 18 inch tiles with 1/16 grout lines. The grout lines add friction because they are uneven and break up the flat, continuous surface of the tile.
What will be walking or rolling on top of the tile?
For floors that will have all nature of things walking and rolling on them you need to consider what those things will be. The thing you need to look at is what is called the “point load”. A Corvette tire actually has a smaller point load than a woman in high heels (but don’t tell her I said that).
Point load is basically the surface area of the object atop the tile divided by the weight on top of it. How much pressure is something going to put on the tile in any given area? The more dense the tile the better it will withstand a point load.
Notice high end hotels have a dense tile such as porcelain or granite in their lobbies? It’s because of the durability of those types of tile for that application. You won’t find limestone tile in a Hilton lobby and you won’t find travertine in a car showroom. Those tiles will simply not stand up to the abuse.
While this is less of a concern with residential applications, you may want to keep it in mind. If you’re installing an entryway in Siberia on which people will constantly be stomping snow off their boots, you don’t want to put in a fragile tile.
Is the application realistic?
Some tile has a soft surface area. Tiles such as travertine or slate are not suited to things like a countertop. They scratch easily. Common sense is the best measure of this. The simple way to figure it out is if your tile choice will not stand up to the rigors of the application, don’t put it there. Simple enough, yes? It still doesn’t stop people.
If you’re unsure, just ask someone. Walk up and say something like “hey, I’m gonna put glass tiles on my garage floor, what do you think about that?” If they look at you like you’ve grown a third eye, you may want to rethink that.
There is more that goes into picking your tile than most people think. While it is not absolutely critical that you follow these guidelines, at least let common sense dictate your choice rather than price. If installed properly tile will last for many, many years. Don’t regret your decision because Home Depot had a sale.
And do not install glass tiles on your garage floor.
hi! Very informative website !
We are picking floors for our new home and we have two kids under two and plan on more in future .. Were found a beautiful porcelain tile for our living room dining room area.. However it seems very slippery .. Is there any time that is less slippery than the other? Is marble better . I can’t have something that’s slippery because we’d have kids falling all the time .. But at same time we don’t want to do wood .. Any help will be appreciated hanks
Hi Rebecca,
Marble is more slippery than most everything else. The number you need to pay attention to is the SCOF (Static Coefficient of Friction), it will be two different numbers, one for wet and one for dry. It will tell you how slippery the tile is.
Roger,
I love your site and all of your helpful info. I am tiling my new master shower. Can I use semi vitreous tile in my shower? My choices for impervious and vitreous are limited in the color I want. I have cement board on walls and hydro barrier over it.
Thanks for your time.
Hi Kristine,
Yes you can.
Hi,
I’m glad I ran into your site while looking for tile answers.
My husband and I are looking for new tiles for a large, open-concept area, to include kitchen, family room, dining room, living room, and halls. We currently have glazed ceramic and like the “light” look of the tile. We were planning to switch to porcelain, but were disappointed by the dull look of the matte finish and believe it will make our Florida home look too dark. We never slip on our ceramic tile and are afraid that the high gloss porcelain will be too slippery. Is there such a thing as a medium gloss porcelain that would reflect some light and wouldn’t be too slippery? Is it a mistake to stick with glazed ceramic rather than use porcelain?
Hi Kathy,
A glazed ceramic and a glazed porcelain have the same glaze on them. There are several porcelain tiles which are ‘shiny’ but have a high coefficient of friction. Not all porcelain tiles are matte, they run the gamut from dull to high shine. A glazed ceramic, provided it is rated for floor tile, will be just fine as well.
Hi Roger,
I happened on your website by chance and glad that I did. I’ve been struggling with hard flooring options for our finished walkout basement. It is currently fully carpeted. Unfortunately the stair landing is still the same patch of cream carpet that we tore out of the first floor living room and stairs years ago to replaced with hickory hardwood (love!) I was hoping to finally address the mismatch carpet piece with slate tile (which will nicely match the stacked slate backsplash on our bar). The plan is to lay the tile at the stair landing, into the adjacent bathroom and into the basement to finish around the bar. My husband likes the look of the slate as well but has concerns that because it is a natural stone it may take some abuse (chip) from the bar stools not to mention that the stools may be tippy because of the uneveness. Are his concerns valid? Should I consider a porcelain tile instead? I love the look of slate and its variation in color and rustic look it my first choice. Will I have regrets if I he gives into my idea of the slate? Thanks!
Hi Susan,
Your husband is correct. Unless you buy honed slate (spendy) which is flat-finished on the surface the unevenness may be a problem as well as chipping/cleaving. There are several porcelains that will look like slate, are considerably cheaper than honed slate, and much easier to maintain.
Hi Roger
I’m planning to redo my shower upstairs, and was considering using slate. My wife would like at least one wall of the shower to be slate with a “rough or uneven look”. Looks nice with light shining down it. Looking at the products available, they come in tight mosaics that require no grout. If I use this on an accent wall of the shower will I have problems with water getting behind the slate? I also see cleaning being a possible issue. Your thoughts?
Thanks!
Nick
Hi Nick,
Water will ALWAYS get behind your tile – always. That’s why we waterproof showers. So that isn’t an issue. The issue is the stacked stone in a shower, it will be an absolute nightmare to keep clean, impossible, actually. There are so many microspaces in there that you CAN NOT get to in order to clean, and they make perfect breeding grounds for all sorts of nasty stuff.
Hi Roger,
We are in the middle of a bathroom reno and have decided on a glass 2×3 tile for the shower walls. We used cement backer board instead of Kerdi for the walls since Schluter says the modified Thinset requires for glass cannot be used. My thought was to use the cement board along with modified Thinset and an epoxy grout for these tile, however every tile person I talk to does nothing but complain about usingn epoxy grout, not using Kerdi, glass in general as a tile for shower application, etc etc. Someone even complained that the glass tile would “expand and contract too much to be used in a shower.”
To me the glass tile seems like a great product for the shower: impermeable, easy to clean, stain-resistant, so is it just harder to work with or why so much drama with the tile setters??
Hi Kelly,
It is simply a specialized installation. If someone complains about it then it’s not someone you want installing it. Glass is very unforgiving, you simply can’t make mistakes with it. It does expand and contract a lot, but it can be used in showers. You need to contact the manufacturer and see whether or not epoxy grout can be used with their glass tile. Some expand and contract too much to use the epoxy with it.
Love your web site…. We are working on our second bathroom. Made mistakes on the first one and don’t want to repeat. I am overwhelmed by all the choices in the stores. How can I narrow down the mass?! Do I pick out the accent tile first and then look for the “bones”? I’m walking in circles!! Help!
Hi Janice,
Normally I have my clients pick out a field tile then pick accents that go with it. Pinterest is a GREAT resource to begin your task.
Hi Roger:
We are redecorating the master bathroom. I have bought some small slate mosaic tile (1″ & 2″ tiles) to install on the shower floor. I have read some reviews that counsel against it. What is your opinion?
I also read a review that said that slate would have to be cleaned everyday after use. Do you recommend this as well? Is there a particular product you recommend that is safe for cleaning slate?
Thank you!
Ann
Hi Ann,
I VEHEMENTLY advise against slate in a shower floor! Slate will ‘cleave’, which essentially means it can peel in layers.
Any good ph neutral stone cleaner will work on slate.
Hi Roger,
Need your help to determine if I’m in over my head. I have the Ditra down and am about to install 18×18 Seagrass Limestone tiles in my kitchen/entry (approx 350 sq ft). I’ve been doing research online before I start on the tile and now I’m scared that I’ve chosen a tile that’s going to be very difficult to install and may not hold up. What’s your opinion on limestone? Is it as difficult to install as people say? Does it need to be sealed before I begin in order to prevent the thin set from “bleeding” through? Is a “special” mortar called for for limestone? I bought Lacticrete 317 (gray) for this tile but now I’m not sure. I’ve laid about 400 sq ft of porcelain (12×24) tile recently and that went pretty well. I learned a lot along the way and was feeling pretty confident but I’m reading so much negative stuff about the limestone that now I’m hesitant. Appreciate your expert opinion. Thanks much!
Julie
Hi Julie,
Most of the negative stuff you read about limestone is from people either installing it incorrectly or using it in the incorrect application. In my opinion your application is an incorrect one. Limestone is a fairly soft, very porous stone. It scratches easily and is VERY high maintenance. It should not be used in an entry or kitchen, in my opinion.
Should you choose to do so, you NEED to use white thinset, at the very least. Laticrete 254 or 255 in white would be a better option (I know – ditra). You’ll lose your warranty from schluter, but you’ll have an installation which will remain bonded.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the reply. I think I’m going to take my chances with the limestone. It’s already purchased and abandoning it at this point isn’t feasible. I’m not so concerned about scratches or even stains. The ‘Seagrass’ is fairly mottled and has lots of random flecks and fossils and stuff so hopefully any man-made blemishes won’t be terribly noticeable. Plus I’m not so obsessive-compulsive about those things anyway. I just have another beer and soon it’s all forgotten! Anyway, I did get the WHITE thinset you recommended. Would you also recommend sealing the tile front and back BEFORE laying the tile?
Thanks,
Julie
ONLY SEAL THE FRONT! I have no idea who started the idea of sealing the BACKS of tiles, but it greatly hinders the bond of the thinset to the tile. You never want to do that.
Hi Roger,
The limestone has been installed. Looks good…so far! Now is it’s time to grout. I have a 1/16″ gap. Do you have a recommendation. I would preferred to go ‘unsanded’ because of the look but would appreciate your opinion. Also, the manufacturer is saying I should seal it first, before grouting. I’ve read this can be a mistake because the grout won’t stick as well. Would a ‘grout release’ be a better option? Your opinion on that, too, would be great. Thanks Roger!
Julie
You can go with sanded or unsanded. I prefer sanded but either works fine. Yes, seal it first. You are only sealing the face of it, don’t pour the sealer onto the tile, apply it with a towel. Grout bonds to the sides of the tile, if you have sealer on them with 1/16″ grout lines you’ve put way too much sealer onto it.
Hi! Love your website!
We find ourselves having to replace the tile in our master bathroom. The stand-up shower looked very much like the pictures on your fail page (much rot, mildew, and there was even a hole in the subfloor from all the rot!)…I realized afterwards I didn’t take pictures–I’m wondering when you stopped by to take the ones on your site LOL. Either way, I’ve shored up the subfloor with 3/4 OSB and am planning on adding 1/2″ ply and using ditra.
We are installing a steam-shower/tub unit (pre-fab, not tiled-in) so no special worries about especially wet areas, shower pans, etc.
For the floor we liked the look of Slate. I don’t see much discussion about deflection ratings and natural stone, but the talk on some contractor boards seems to think having the right rating is critical or cracks will happen. It’s surprising to me that nobody else seems to focus on that as a starting point (ie, as long as the floor is not a trampoline it’s ok?) The floor is solid–but it’s rating is < L380 based on the math including joist sizes and span (2×10,16", 14 ft). Looks like even Scheuler says it needs to be almost double that. I can't sister the joists. The ceiling is open below, but this is right above the main electrical panel and it's a spiderweb of wiring through, stapled to, and under all the joists. I could put in a beam, but while I understand the mechanics, I have no idea how to size it or support it properly. (Hiring an engineer is likely out of budget for this project).
Am I over analyzing this? Is scheuler just being conservative? or should we head back to the tile-store and find a ceramic tile with a slate look to it?
I'm surprised that most (all?) tile selection articles I've read don't start with a warning about the deflection on the floor to rule in or rule out stone tile before even starting to look…like I said, my floor seems VERY solid, but the structural calculators say otherwise.
More notes:
The tile shop “the-tile-shop” responded to this question with “it’s fine”, and “just use 1/2” cement board”…but when I followed up with the specific deflection of the joists question, they came back with a suggestion to use “permat” (which they sell) because it has a 10 year deflection warranty.
I see other pros puzzling about how it can solve the deflection problem (with no added subfloor beyond the 3/4)…I can’t find any details about their warranty (other than it exists–and only applies to a “proper installation”–not sure what that means)…I’m skeptical…and about to abandon the thought of slate and try to find a nice slate-looking ceramic…
I see you’ve mentioned permat in the past in comments…any thoughts on their (apparently recent?) claims to stiffen the subfloor enough that deflection is not an issue?
Thanks again!
Permat WILL NOT add deflection stiffness to your floor. The tile shop is there to sell product, and they do it nauseatingly well by baffling with bullshit. They will always have a product that ‘solves’ your issue – always.
Permat works well, but it will not do what the tile shop says it will.
Hi David,
One reason is because a lot of tile articles are written by professional writers who have done absolutely nothing with tile other than walk on it. They simply don’t know about deflection ratings. Your minimum deflection rating should be l360. The requirement for natural stone used to be double that at l720, but changed a last year when the marble institute revisited the requirements. Stone floors now *technically* require the same l360 rating as porcelain or ceramic (or l480, depending on your source). I say technically because I don’t necessarily agree with that ON LARGER FLOORS. On a smaller bathroom or kitchen floor, with a double layer of ply and a membrane like ditra I think it’s absolutely fine. Your floor should be fine as it is. I would recommend, however, that you do find a porcelain that looks like slate strictly for maintenance purposes.
We are redoing our entryway, kitchen, mudroom hallway, laundryroom, and bathroom with the same porcelain tile. A professional is installing. The two tiles are from Eleganza and are porcelain. Both have a PEI of 4. My concern is that the cheaper one (that I can afford) has a MOHS of 5 and wet COF of <.6 (it is very smooth). If I go up $2000, I gain a MOHS of 7 and a tile made in Italy instead of China. I need a tile that will last at least 10 years. Would the MOHS 5 hold up to normal usage in a kitchen and mudroom?
I also liked some tile that was going to cost over $6000 and I ruled them out.
Hi Barb,
That tile will last just fine for at least ten years provided it is properly installed (the MOHS5).
Thanks for your response. My other concern is that the MOHS5 tile is perfectly smooth. The COF wet rating was , <.6. I have always had tile in my kitchen, bathrooms that has some texture to it. Is is a mistake to have a perfectly smooth tile in a kitchen?
Not necessarily. In most residential kitchens it’s just fine.
I really appreciate all of your input. The next question is regarding the underlayment. We have a 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood subfloor. We also doubled the floor joists under the areas with tile to help with the weight. We added 1/2 plywood, screwed and glued on top of that. For the past 20 years, we have had hairline cracks in the same places in our kitchen. Lots of opinions of why it happened, but I don’t want problems in the new floor. Our kitchen designer is proposing pulling up the plywood underlayment and putting down 1/4″ Durock, then the porcelain tile. That would give us 1″ underlayment. Should we go with 1/2′” Durock to achieve 1 1/4″ underlayment?
Hi Barb,
Your ‘designer’ (I’m assuming here…) is not an engineer. DO NOT pull up plywood underlayment, it needs to be there. No thickness of durock will add any structural stability whatsoever, absolutely none. It is only a proper material to bond tile onto. It has nothing to do with movement, structural stability, deflection ratio or structural strength of your floor.
1/4″ durock (with thinset installed beneath it) is just fine for your floor. But the plywood layers need to be left in place. Right now you have a proper substrate for floor tile – your designer wants you to compromise that. Don’t let that happen. You simply need a proper substrate (material) for the tile to bond, like cement backer or a membrane like ditra, over your ply and you are good to go.
Tell me how your floor was constructed before, what was under the tile, and I can normally tell you exactly why your hairline cracks were there.
If we leave the 1/2″ plywood underlayment, it will undoubtedly not be level or smooth after the tile removal. Can you put 1/4″ Durock on that or does it have to be leveled and smoothed out? This will end up raising the new floor 3/8″ higher than our adjoining wood floors (we had 1/4″ tile before (may have been part of the problem). Is that too much of a height difference?
You can level it out with thinset beneath the backer when you install it. It should be scraped down, but the thinset will level the backer out. It is not too much of a difference, you’ll just need to find a transition to ramp it if you want to.
I am not sure that we should leave the current underlayment. My husband thinks that deflection in the joists was not the cause of our tiles cracking. With the sistered floor joists we have the strength to support the tile. Could it be that the 1/2 ply underlayment was not installed correctly? If so, it should come off, right? I want a strong underlayment, but can not imagine having 3/8″ transitions all over my first floor into every room. There has to be a way to get a strong underlayment without having the tile floor being that much higher than the adjoining wood floors. Alternatives?
Once again – right now you have a proper substrate for your floor tile. Removing the 1/2″ plywood will compromise that. The lowest you can get your floor is by using ditra beneath your tile directly to the plywood. NEVER compromise the substrate of a tile installation due to the transitions needed at adjoining flooring. You NEED that much beneath your tile – period. The only way the 1/2″ ply could have been installed incorrectly is if they used liquid nails or something like that before screwing it down, that would leave voids between the layers of ply.
Great site! Very informative!
Do you foresee any problems with polished porcelain 12″X24″ tiles for a kitchen floor (Eleganza Calcutta Oro to be exact)?
I keep hearing about it being slippery, hard to keep clean, and that it will scratch easily. What’s your experience? Should I go with matte finish?
Thanks,
Shajan
Hi Shajan,
The SCOF number (static coefficient of friction) will tell you how slippery it is. The higher the number the more grip it has. Whether or not it scratches easily is relative. If you live on a beach and never take off your shoes it will scratch more easily than someone who only walks on grass and never wears shoes. It depends on your particular use, not necessarily on which tile. It’s more how it’s used. Matte finish in a kitchen is normally a better choice if you’re worried about those two things.
Hi Floor Elf! Great site! I am a tile fabricator and installer. a client wants to install 1/2″ thick glazed terracotta (8×8, handmade,irregular,etc.) in a kerdi steam shower. I advised against it, but am wondering if it really means certain failure or not. she really is stuck on using them and the doubt is holding us up. (as well as her inability to choose anything else…)
thanks,
Libby Donohoe
Hi Libby,
Absolutely not! I wouldn’t touch that with your insurance.
You CAN NOT install a porous tile in a steam shower. The steam will infuse into the tile, then when cooled it will actually combine and collect in the body of the tile. When heated up again these pockets of water in the tile will expand. It will lead to cracking of the tile and grout, unbonding of the tile and your dog may burst into flames! Unless she chooses a suitable tile (porcelain or granite) walk away. It’ll cost you less money.
Hi Roger,
Found you by accident, my Good luck! Very much in need of sensible advice. I have found, after much looking, a Beautiful semi gloss porcelin tile which I love. Planned on using this ( Castel Diamond Carrara semi gloss 24×24) for a high traffic kitchen floor. However a friend has stated I will surely fall and break my neck! Seriously, is this a poor decision? Coefficient of 5 wet and 6 dry. You sound very knowledgable will listen to you! Thank You!
Hi Marie,
It depends on whether you spill vegetable oil on your floor a lot.
A coefficient of 5 or greater (wet) is suitable for a 2% slope. What that means is 5 or greater wet is fine for shower floors. On a flat, dry area floor such as your kitchen it won’t be a problem at all, slippery liquids spilled on the floor notwithstanding. Unless you’re doing gymnastics in your kitchen on a regular basis you likely will not slip and break your neck.
Hi Roger,
We’re installing 3 x 9 durango tiles (smooth, not the travertine type) in our shower and 2 x 2 mosaic travertine tiles for the shower pan. What type of tile sealer and grout sealer should be used to keep the tiles clean and protect the walls and floor in the shower from moisture as much as possible? Thanks.
Hi Carol,
No sealer does (or is made to) protect your shower from moisture. It is there to prevent staining of your tile, that’s it. I prefer Miracle sealant’s 511 impregnator.
Hi, Roger. I am just about to begin tiling a stall shower after ripping out a fiberglass stall shower, spending a day plus squaring up the walls and floor, then installing hardi-backer and Kerdi. My question: while I like natural stone (granite), I am beginning to lean towards porcelain because it is lighter (less weight for the Kerdi fabric to carry) and because it is less slippery than the polished granite tile. Question: does regular porcelain glazed tile have enough friction for use in a shower floor, or should I look for a special kind of porcelain tile (e.g. smaller tiles like 2 x 2 or tiles with a special coating or surface preparation)? Love your website, and I’ve downloaded and studied your manual. Thank you. Don
Hi Don,
You need to have 3×3 tile or smaller on your shower floor or it won’t conform to the slope unless you’re using a linear drain. Some porcelain has plenty of friction, some doesn’t. Just look for the coefficient of friction rating for the tile. Kerdi will more than handle the weight of granite tile.
HI!
My dad directed me to your site because he’s awesome and since I’m a daddy’s girl, I figured I’d check it out. He’s getting ready to install some unfilled travertine tile in our shower that my husband’s parents bought us and he said we should do some research before he installs it… I fear he’s right. Although my husband won’t budge because the money’s already spent. And it’s from his parents. Here’s the thing: I’m not a cleaner and I have 2 kids under the age of 3. I’m really starting to think that travertine, b/c of the up-keep, is going to be a ginormous mistake. And I’m thinking maybe you can maybe help me explain it to my husband, from an expert’s point of view, that would make him understand how much of a demanding undertaking this ‘daily maintenance’ is going to be…??? I would be forever grateful!!! Honestly, I really don’t think he understands what we are signing ourselves up for.
Hi Kellie,
Sure, drag me into the middle of it!
There isn’t really one side or the other to this. The deciding factor with this particular stone is the fact that it is unfilled. This means it has varying densities, open pits and crevices, and is generally a huge trap for any and all nasty gross stuff that will begin to grow in a shower. It will also be nearly impossible to clean this stuff out of those pits.
I absolutely refuse to put tumbled or unfilled travertine in any type of shower at all unless (!) epoxy grout is used. If epoxy grout is used then it will fill all those crevices and pits and fill them with grout rather than nasties. While regular grout will also do this, regular grout, over time, will not remain in the small crevices and creases and they will end up open and unsealed. With regular grout, which is not waterproof (even with sealer) water will get into the grout and into these pits and crevices.
If you do manage to get all this filled and sealed and all that good stuff, the remaining problem lies in an area in which you have no control – behind the tile. It has open pits and crevices in the back of the tile as well. Which means water will get into them and stay (stagnant) and you can not get to it to clean it out. Tile and grout are not waterproof, so using an open, varying density tile in a shower leaves open the possibility of stuff growing where you will not only not see it, but can’t get to it to clean it out. This aspect is also a problem even when using epoxy grout, although not nearly to the same extent.
So if you do want to use tumbled travertine use epoxy grout, use miracle sealant’s 511 porous plus sealer, and dry your shower after every use. If you do that it’ll be fine.
Or you could compromise and find something else for the main tile and use that as an accent.
Here’s how compromise works in my house: I tell my wife what I would like, then my wife tells me what we’re gonna do instead. Easy.
o my goodness!
Thank you for going through that much trouble for that great of an explanation. And fast, too! No wonder my dad likes you! I’m a facebook fan for sure now. And I hope with your advice maybe I can convince the permanent roommate that maybe we should do a bit more research! Thank you so much for help!
Roger,
This is a great site, thanks for all of the information! Will be installing tile in our kitchen and bath in the next few months and am doing my research on installation. Thanks so much, I will be sure to bookmark this site for future reference!
Hey Thomas,
I’ll be right here if you have any questions. May not be sober – but I’ll be here.
“You can install travertine in a shower but porcelain will be easier to take care of.” I was considering putting travertine in my shower because my wife likes the way it looks. What am I in for?
It depends on whether or not you’re the one who cleans the shower.
If cleaned regularly, with the proper products (ph-neutral tile cleaner) it’s not much more maintenance than ceramic or porcelain. Use a good sealer and clean it regularly. If you want nearly zero problems just keep a squeegee in there and dry it down after every use. If you do that you’ll rarely need to actually clean it. Really.
Hello Roger..My son told me about your site…and I have two questions…Building a small house and putting Tile through out..for qualty what is better ceramic or porcelain???…I have fiberglass shower and want to put the same tile above shower can i use plywood behind tile???
Hi Robert,
Porcelain is ceramic. The difference is that porcelain is fired twice in the kiln rather than once which creates a more dense, more durable tile. Porcelain tiles also often use cleaner, more pure clays that a run-of-the-mill ceramic. For most installations a porcelain would be a better choice.
No, you cannot use plywood behind tile. Plywood will expand and contract A LOT with temperature and humidity changes. A wall in or around a shower changes quite a bit over the course of a day/shower use. You need to use something which is stable and will not have these expansion and contraction issues. Backerboard or even regular drywall would be better than plywood.
Thanks for all the free advice ! I have read quite a few of your articles and coments. I must say that they are MUCH more informative and easier to understand than any others Not to mention actually entertaining to read. I have found, Really, and I’m not just “blowing smoke”, and my dog hasen’t burst into flames… yet. I have spent an outrageous ammount of time picking tile for my home. I ran out of money, and have completed it on my own. There is only ONE thing left to do. And it’s a biggie, and Very Important to me. This is my staircase. I have chosen, (and purchased 8 to 12 at a time over the last 3 months)I’m broke remember? The Perfect looking and feeling tile for my taste. (I’m divorced so I get to do that). I will be laying 77 12 X 12 X 1″ mesh backing Slate Mosaic tiles on my staircase. It is a brand new one, I completed it 10 months ago. It is VERY solid, and I have already Properly installed Hardie Backer. My question to you Mr. Ingenious Professional Tile Guy is : Do you have any advice on laying this type of tile on staircase steps? Is there anything I should do to or on the nose of each step? I’m currently planning on just laying the tile right up to the edge, with no overhang of course. I have tested the tile out for 2 months so far in a kind of real life stress test. I laid 3 tiles down on a steps and walked over them daily. Not one of them has chipped or cracked. So I’m REALLY ready to go for it and permanently lay them. Next Saturday the big day. Please try to give me any advice, (or laff and tell me its a bad idea) before then.
Thanks,
~Bill
Signal Hill, CA
Hi Bill,
You should have, at the very least, a metal transition strip at the front edges of the steps. I understand you’ve walked on them daily, but were they on the very edge of the stair? If you watch people walk up and down stairs (yes, as a matter of fact I watch where people step when they do everything
) they ALWAYS put full pressure on the very front edge of the step. If you have just tile there the very outer corner of the tile will receive full body weight with every step. This will both cause a weak spot and may ‘cantilever’ the tile, where all that weight acts as a counterweight on the rest of the tile.
If you install even a regular metal transition strip, such as Schluter, the metal will take the brunt of this pressure. The strips have a little ‘L’ leg which runs under the tile and will distribute this pressure. Tile, especially small tiles, rarely last long-term if it is the only product on the edge of a step. Now the bad news – it’s fairly spendy. You can find other brands, such as blanke, which are cheaper and accomplish the same thing. But you do need something on those edges.
Hey Roger:
Although we’ve decided on a glazed porcelain tile for our bathroom, what is your opinion of buying such at Home Depot. They have a tile we really like, and after going to Dal, David didn’t want to deal with a company across town where you had to special order everything you need. I know Dal’s quality, but have never bought anything at HD that was the finished tile product. I definitely know now not to use their Polyblend grout that they sell, just wanted your opinion on tile quality and if sizes are consistent.
There is a lot more leeway in the size inconsistency of that tile. That’s why they can sell it so cheaply. Before tiles are boxed at the manufacturer they are separated into lot sizes matching up the size differences. With tile at the big box stores these allowable differences are a bit more than the tile you’ll get from someplace like dal. For the most part they are just fine for most installations. If they have one you like get it.
Thanks. I’m just trying to eliminate as many variables as possible to make this as easy for us (David mostly.) I am aware of dye lot numbers, some of the tiles I brought home from Dal do not come in all sizes, 12’s and 18’s with only bullnose. I wanted some other variation, especially since we are doing a wainscot. On that subject, the transition from the 12″ tiles in the shower to the wainscot. What is your suggestion as far as going to a 6″ on the walls? This HD tile does not have corner bullnose, we will have to make our own. Do you just pick a point, like the end of the tub and lay the 6″ next to the 12″? How would you do it?
I would pick a point where the shower door or curtain is going to be and simply go from the 12’s to the 6’s. I miter bullnose for several installations.
Hi Roger,
I recently installed slate over ditra over 3/4 plywood for a fireplace area. The stove is about 14” above the floor. Nonetheless the tiles get very very hot after a few hours. Do you guys usually install durock instead of ditra for a fireplace application?
thanks
Hey William,
I’ve used both. Some county and city codes require a non-flammable substrate on a fireplace surround which is normally interpreted as *only* cement backerboard. Ditra isn’t flammable, but for purposes of the codes it doesn’t qualify. Regardless, your tile will get hot – it retains heat effectively. But it won’t negatively affect your installation.
The slate I’m looking at is very solid as I cannot see any layers at all, so you’ve put my mind at ease.
Thanks again for your help Roger, I really appreciate it. :-)
Hi Roger
I stuck with a small problem. I have bought all my bathroom tiles but the mosaics, and would really like to use black slate mosaics on the shower floor and up the shower wall behind the taps.
I have been doing some reading on this and have chatted to a bunch of tile salesmen and I am getting a lot of conflicting stories. All of the salesmen (4) from different natural stone shops assure me it is fine for a shower floor if it is sealed yearly, some forums online disagree and others say it is a bad idea regardless.
What is your take on this?
Hey Bjorn,
You can absolutely use slate in your shower. BUT! You need to use the correct type of slate to prevent problems. You would be better off with a honed slate. This is a slate with a consistent, flat face on it and not the type with the uneven texture. The thing you need to be concerned with is the ability of the slate to ‘flake’ apart. If it has a solid, even surface it is less likely to do that.
A good general rule for slate is the more you spend the better the product. There has been a lot of disdain about using slate for anything but a fireplace in the last decade or so because of all the cheaper tiles being flooded into the market. Usually these products are from China but China also has good slate and other places also have bad. So don’t use that as your only gauge. Check the sides of the slate, if they are good and solid and the overall feel of the tile is fairly dense you should be fine. If you can see the separate layers of it and there are spaces between some (like it is about ready to split apart) that is a cheaper slate and it usually will, in fact, chip apart.
If you find a flat, dense, more expensive slate you will be absolutely fine using it in your shower. You do want to seal it with a good impregnating sealer probably about every 12 -18 months – this is to keep the nasty things out of the rock, not to waterproof it or hold it together. There is absolutely no reason not to use slate in yor shower – it is a rock, after all. Rocks are fairly sturdy as far as I remember.