One of the most frequent questions I get asked is ‘What size and type of trowel should I use for…?’ The proper answer to that is ‘whichever trowel gives you the proper coverage for your particular installation’.
So there really isn’t one perfect answer to that question, a lot of factors are involved. But I’ll try to help you out.
Proper thinset coverage
The first thing you need to know is what constitutes proper coverage. As stated in ANSI A108.5 3.3.2 for installation of tile on floors; “Average uniform contact area shall not be less than 80% except on exterior or shower installations where contact area shall be 95% when no less than three tiles or tile assemblies are removed for inspection. The 80% or 95% coverage shall be sufficiently distributed to give full support to the tile with particular attention to this support under all corners of the tile.”
Let me translate that for you:
Proper coverage of any tile in a dry area (bathroom floors, backsplashes, fireplaces, etc.) is 80%. Proper coverage of any tile in a wet area (showers) or outdoors is 95%. This includes complete coverage beneath all corners of the tile. You check this by installing a tile, then removing it to check the CONTACT of the thinset on the back of the tile. If, after checking three different tiles in three different areas of the installation, you have that percentage of coverage then you have proper coverage.
Always aim for 100% coverage. More is always better. The photo to the right is an example of complete coverage (thanks Rob).
If you have less than that percentage of coverage you have a couple of options. You can either back-trowel the tile as well as the substrate (back-troweling means combing lines of thinset on the back of the tile as well, not just skimming it with the flat side of the trowel which is called backbuttering), or you can switch to a larger trowel. Both methods will give you more coverage. In the case of back-troweling it will double the amount of thinset beneath your tile.
So those are your coverage requirements and how to check it. Now onto different trowel types…
Types of trowels
Trowels come in a lot of shapes and sizes, even goofy lookin’ ones that look like something out of a Saw movie. The three basic types you should know are the square notch, U-notch and V-notch.
If you look at the horrible graphic I made (my photoshop skills are like a monkey with ten thumbs opening a banana with the keyboard…) you’ll notice that a V-notch will leave the least amount of thinset on your substrate, the U-notch more than that and the square notch will leave the most.
You would be able to visualize this if those horrible graphics were to scale and all the same size. Which they aren’t. Whole monkey-thumbs keyboard-banana thing…
With any mosaic tile you normally want a v-notch, with any large format you normally want a square notch. With average sized tile (12 inches square up to 17” square) you’ll want a u-notch or square notch. With most of my installations I use a square-notch trowel.
Sizing trowels
Trowel measurements can be confusing – some have two numbers, some three. So you need to know how to read them.
V-notch trowels normally only have two numbers. The first number is the width of space between the teeth, the second is the depth of the notch.
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With square notch and U-notch trowels the first number is the width of the teeth, the second is the width of space between those teeth, and the third number is the depth of the space between the teeth. Like this:
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If it only has two numbers it means the width of the teeth and the width between the teeth are the same and the second number is the depth of the notch, like the one on the left.
This is the most common sizing you’ll find on a trowel.
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If it only has one number, or a trowel is only referred to with one number (as I often do when recommending a trowel) it means that all the measurements are the same. This is what I commonly refer to as a ¼” square notch trowel, even though the graphic says U-notch.
Monkey, thumbs, banana. Yeah.
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Better?
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Which trowel to use
As I stated at the beginning there is no one answer to that. All I can do is tell you what I normally use with what size or type of tile.
If I am installing smaller mosaics (smaller than 2” square) I normally use a ¼” V-notch trowel. This is a ¼” X ¼” trowel.
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With mosaics or regular tile larger than 2” square I will use a ¼” square notch trowel ( ¼” X ¼” X ¼”).
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With tile 12” x 12” up to 18” x 18” I’ll normally use a ¼” x 3/8” trowel ( ¼” X ¼” X 3/8”)
With tile larger than 18” I’ll either use the ¼” x 3/8” and back-trowel the tile as well, or use a 3/8” X 3/8” or ½” X ½” square or U-notch.
Those are general guidelines and will work with most installations. You NEED to check your coverage with your installation to ensure that you have proper coverage. If you do not have proper coverage you need to back-trowel the tile or use a larger trowel.
The trowel I normally have in my hand is a ¼” X ¼” X 3/8” square notch, I use it for most of my installations (and to irritate random pets…).
This is another one of those questions that, if you ask 50 different contractors, you’re likely to get 50 different answers. For instance the photo of the tile with full coverage at the top is from Rob. It is a 13″ X 13″ tile and he used a 1/2″ x 1/2″ trowel. For most guys it is a personal choice. As long as you get proper coverage there is no wrong answer. The above are simply guidelines and my personal choices. It is up to you to determine whether your trowel is the proper choice for your installation or not.
I can’t see your installation from here. And you know what happens to your dog if you get improper coverage, right?
If you don’t you need to read my blog more.
Just sayin’.
HI Roger,
Putting 6×24 porcelain tile over 5/8 PLywood and 1/2 HardieBoard. I was thinking 1/4 x 3/8. Or should I go bigger. Also worried about the humps created from taping and mudding the joints in the hardieBoard. Will backbuttering help level things off?
thanks
Hi Chris,
You may want to go with a slightly larger trowel with those planks. Any humps created by taping and mudding should be easily compensated for as you set the tile. You need to backbutter (skim-coat the backs) that tile as it is large format and will allow a proper bond to your substrate.
Hi,
Hope you aren’t getting flooded out up there. I live near evergreen and can’t believe the amount of water we have been getting. Anyway, my project is a shower with 12×24 porcelain tiles that I intend to lay in a bond pattern. Do I use a 1/2×1/2 trowel or larger Unotch? Could you recommend a thinset?
Lastly I am doing two niches that I had planned on using redi niches, but I am concerned that the flanges cause too much variance in the wall. If I feather them there will still be speed bumps? Am I being overly concerned?
Could forget the redi niches, use my Durock inside the niches, tape and mud all corners and seams, redgard and be fine?
Thanks
Hi Q,
It’s a bit moist down here. River hasn’t overflowed in like three days, though, so we may be good for the weekend.
A 3/8″ trowel should be plenty large enough for those tiles. There will still be some speed bumps with the niches if you feather them out. I honestly hate the damn things. I don’t use them. You can do them with durock, tape, mud and redgard.
Sorry, missed the thinset question: I prefer laticrete 253 or mapei ultraflex II.
Thanks Roger,
Fortunately, all this moisture has been keeping the fire danger around my dog down.
Can I use 1/4 inch denshield or hardibacker to face the inside of the niche? My original framing of the niche was assuming the dimensions of the plastic rediniche.
Even with 1/4 inch I am going to be off a bit as the redi niche was 1/8th. Also Cement board does not seem to work well with me when it comes to precision. So if I can I would prefer a different substrate for in the niches.
If so, do I tape the seams and thinset and then redgard, or just fiberglass mesh the seams and redgard the mesh on.
Lastly when planning layout and such, should I assume approximately 1/4 inch for the thinset thickness if I use the 3/8 trowel? Or is there a guide to how thick the thinset will be after the tile is installed.
Thanks,Q
Yes, you can use the 1/4″ for your niche. Just redgard and tape is fine for a niche. You can also use 3/16″ kerdi-board. 1/4″ is about right, it’ll vary. And it varies with every job, tile and installer, so there is no guide.
Thanks Roger, Just to be clear here. Hate to keep beating a dead horse.
I can use hardibacker, denshield or kerdi-board doesn’t have to be 1/4 inch cement board. Do you know where I might be able to get it? Can you buy a quantity small enough to do 2 12×12 niches?
Thanks,
Q
Where you can get which? The hardi or densshield should be available at either home depot or lowes, the kerdi-board depends on your geographical location. One 3×5 sheet of the densshield or hardi should be sufficient to do them, one 4×5 sheet of kerdi-board. Those are the smallest quantities available.
Ok, sorry Roger, last thing. Does the redgard work just as well on hardibacker, denshield,and cement board? I just want to make sure I am creating something as watertight as I can.
Hi Q,
Yes.
Hi Roger,
It’s me again. I’ll be done with my shower soon and I won’t bother you with any more questions!
3 wall alcove shower with 10″ x 20″ porcelain tile on the wall, 3/8″ thick.
I’m confused re: the purpose of back buttering tile and when back buttering should be used. Should I back butter these tiles for a wall installation?
Also, is a 1/4″ x 3/8″ square notch trowel appropriate for this size tile.
Thanks in advance! Matt
Hi Matt,
Backbuttering fills all the open spaces and pores in the back of the tile to create a better, full bond. When I refer to backbuttering I mean a skim-coat of thinset on the back of the tile with the flat side of the trowel. Yes, I would back butter those. Yes, your trowel is fine.
I’m laying out my shower wall tiles and could use some tips on how to tile the bottom row against the pitched floor. I guess I’ll be ok on the low end but things will get thin as I work against the high end.
Also, I’ve seen videos of quick set being applied to the tile instead of the wall before setting, what do you think?
Thanks for your time!
Hi John,
I can’t help unless I know why and how much your floor is pitched, and how large your tile is. If you are using a linear drain on ones end then just start with a full tile on the lowest corner and cut the wall tile as you move up the slope, it’s completely normal for linear applications. If you have a regular drain in the center of your shower your perimeter should be level, not sloped.
I think using quick-set on the back of the tile will not embed the thinset into the substrate, which will lead to an incomplete and inadequate bond to your wall surface. I also think you should quit watching videos from whomever posted that.
Hello,
I’m tiling a shower with 3″x6″ white glazed ceramic subway tile. Which trowel size do you recommend and what size grout line?
Hi Scott,
A 1/4″ trowel should work just fine for you. Grout lines
Roger, I am putting Kerdi membrane in a custom shower. How wet should the thinset be? I started today but smoothing the membrane was more difficult than I thought. I am installing over Sheetrock.
Thanks and love your tips.
Hi Norm,
About like pancake batter.
You state that “Durock” underlayment needs to be filled and taped,prior to laying your floor tile, I THINK “Durock” says it does’nt. “Wonderboard” also says not required. “Hardie backerboard” says it DOES.
Further, any truth in the Hardie product tending to delaminate?
Reasoning, if the underlayment is set in modified thinset and screwed down, and your tile is set by the methods, you describe, ie sufficient thinset AND back buttering, the the weakness in the installation could be in the BACKERBOARD itself, your comments will be much appreciated. Donald.
Hi Donald,
Durock and hardi are both used for many more types of installations rather than tile. If you install tile over it you NEED to tape and mud it, period. I’ve never seen hardi delaminate, I’ve heard some stories, but honestly have never seen pictures of it either. There is ALWAYS a weakness in your installation. When done correctly it is the soft joint and perimeter joints, designed specifically to be the weakest point and be able to compensate for it.
Which trowel would you recommend for installation of a 6″x36″ porcelain tile?
It is being installed on Durock and we are going to use 3/32″ spacer.
Hi Steve,
I would likely use a 3/8 x 3/8.
Namaskar !
What is the difference between Linoleum (Lino) and Sheet Vinyl for flooring purpose ?
We want to do our kitchen.
Thank you and have a nice day !
Pratap Bhatnagar
Linoleum is a solid sheet product and sheet vinyl is a thin sheet product with a paper backing bonded to it.
In your Library “Which trowel to use” you say that you most often use a 1/4″ x 3/8″ trowel (1/4″ x 1/4″ x 3/8″). Based on your description of trowel sizes, did you mean to say (1/4″ x 3/8″ x 1/4″)?
Hi Ray,
Yes, I did. My brain sometimes works faster than my fingers. Thanks for pointing that out.
Hi Roger. So are square notch trowels which are labelled 1/4×1/4×3/8 = thinset’s void width, thinset’s ridge width, thinset’s ridge height? At a hardware store today, a Richards square notch trowel was labelled 3/8×1/4×1/4 where the 3/8 was definitely the ridge’s height? I’m so confused.
Hi Nitram,
Off brands use off-brand numbering systems. Never seen nor heard of a Richard’s trowel. The first method is the standard method of numbering trowels.
So…not to sound like a novice, but when I am tiling my shower, do I put the layer of thinset directly on the upper mud layer? I ripped up the old tile down to the upper mud layer and there were three distinct layers of “stuff” that I ripped up–the tile, the thinset, and something else (it was white-ish). Do you know what that “something else” might be and do I need to use it when I install the new tile.
Hi Drew,
Yes, tile is bonded directly to the upper mud deck. The layer of white stuff could be a number of things, none of which you need to replace and some of which it is best to get rid of anyway.
Hi Roger,
I am a home owner that can use some very good advise.
I have a foyer with a small half BR vanity area totally made up of 150 sg. ft.
Thirty-five years ago the 6 x 6 tile installed on sub floor was the wrong color. The installer placed the correct tile atop of the other tile. It has cracked along the joists in a straight line at different points.
I’m leary in putting in tile again. The tile would be 12 x 12 ceramic. A contractor who is quoting on this area stated that the foyer floor slopes from center to sides. Does not reccommend large tiles. He has also stated that installation of 1/4″ plywood subflooring will not level and coprrect the slope.
That’s where Ditra Stratamat may help. In reading various articles from your site I did not see any one like my issue.
I am sure that you have worked with a similiar situation. How would you proceed in preparation, what materials needed and to a proper installation?
Please help!
Frank
Hi Frank,
While ditra or stratamat (two different products) can be used, it is actually better to use a self-leveling concrete. An additional layer of plywood still needs to be installed, this is not to level it but to ensure there is proper substrate beneath the slc, then primer and slc is installed. Once cured your floor will be completely level. That is the proper product to use, it is made specifically for your situation.
Your Elfness…Our contractor is making our old shower larger. He put cement backer board where he removed the old tile, but left the drywall as a substrate in the expanded area. He says it’ll all be covered with RedGuard and we don’t need to tear out the drywall, because the topical will work just fine on the painted drywall too.
Is he cutting corners?
Thanks!!
Hi Ed,
I don’t know if he is cutting corners or just doesn’t know any better, I try to believe most just don’t know (although to my mind if you are billing yourself as a contractor – you should). Drywall is not an approved nor proper substrate for redgard. It needs to be cement backerboard.
Grew up in Fort Collins graduated from Poudre 1972 have been living in Lafayette La for 29 years as a helicopter pilot and part time house remodeler (mine!) Ha! need to know if you let the thinset dry before putting down your mud for the preslope shower pan.
Hi Rocky,
Nope, put the mud in there while the thinset is still wet.
Re: trowel size, I am confused. Early in the article you say to use a V notch for mosaics, yet later you say “With mosaics or regular tile larger than 2” square I will use a ¼” square notch trowel ( ¼” X ¼” X ¼”).” I am installing 2″ mosaics on a 12″ x 12″ sheet. I am using Laticrete Gold 253 thinset. Which trowel size should I use?
Hi Tom,
2″ mosaics should have the square notch. When installing a mosaic which is translucent I use a square notch so I can knock down the ridges. If they are regular smaller mosaics I use a v-notch. Sorry about that, I’ll need to clarify that a bit.
Roger,
Wow! Thanks for your prompt reply. Just to be clear, my tiles are 2″ x 2″ on a little less than 12″ x 12″ sheets. The tiles are 3/16″ thick. They are not translucent; they are grey.
Yup, square notch.
I finished leveling my bathroom floor w/ self-leveling compound and ‘m about to set 12″ x 24″ tile on a concrete floor. Should I use 1/2″ x 1/2″ square notch trowel? Also, the tile is “Keystone Iron” which is kinda gray and white. The tile store sold me Gray Thinset (Laticrete) but I just read on a site suggesting to use White Thinset. Am I okay w/ using gray?
I’m also using your recommendation for running bond pattern, in your Tile Design Book. Thanks in advance.
Hi Ray,
Yes, 1/2″ x 1/2″ is fine. Yes, you are fine using gray.
Hi Your Flatness,
I’m a bit stymied by troweling ridges into all those triangular shapes my diagonal floor layout leaves me. Can’t just drag the trowel straight across the Ditra as always run into a 45 degree edge of wall or tile. I’d just trowel a larger square area, but then I’m concerned about exceeding the not-skinned time of the 317 thinset after combing/back buttering and getting all those tiles in. That process still leaves some angled areas, that either I leave flat with waffles filled, or partially fill until I mix the next thinset batch. I’m using the 1/4-1/4-1/2 u-notch trowel at ~ 50 degrees. I’ve even considered making a small trowel with notches widened so when used at a 45 deg. angle to an edge, it makes proper width notches.
So, when you’re done laughing :), how do you recommend doing diagonal layouts at the edges?
Thanks a bunch!
Hi Keith,
Pre-fill the ditra around the perimeter then just comb thinset onto the backs of the tile where you can’t reach with the trowel.
Roger,
Thanks! It’s just a relativity problem
Hey Roger,
Trowel article is great, thanks.
My plan is porcelain 18″ sq tile over ditra and expecting to be accommodating ~ gradual 1/16″ floor unevenness between any two tiles with the 317 thinset over the ditra. I have Marshalltown 1/4 x 1/4 x 3/8 u-notch and 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/2 u-notch trowels. Looks like I comb at about 60 degrees above the floor.
Would you recommend something other than the 1/2 trowel above to give me more to work with than the 3/8? Those 1/2 inch ridges seem pretty narrow.
My understanding is that u-notches have a bit less drag.
Thanks!
Hey Keith,
U-notches are normally used for medium bed mortar, that’s why they leave a bit more thinset than a u-notch. I think the 1/2″ will be just fine.
Hi Roger,
My husband and I are tiling the basement bath. After hanging the durock around the tub (and taping and mudding the seams), I noticed that one of the walls is not in plane. How much out of plane is significant enough that it cannot be offset by thinset and requires correction? If it needs correction, can we apply mud to the surface to level the wall or do we have to start over? The tiles are 8″ x 12″ porcelain. We really appreciate any advice you can give us.
Hi Brenda,
You can normally fix out-of-plane up to about 3/16″ if needed. You can also float it out, let it cure, then tile if it’s much more than that. Of course you can also remove it and shim it out plane, but that’s a pain once it’s taped and mudded. If you need to you can use a medium-bed mortar and compensate up to about 1/2″.
In the future it would be easier to simply let me know how out of plane it is so I don’t need to guess and cover every scenario and can simply give you an answer for your project.
I am removing an old fiberglass one piece shower to replace with a tile shower (among other bathroom renovations). Upon removing the old tub shower combo I found that the floor was rotting underneath a non-load bearing wall because the tub overflow was not plumbed into anything (why is nothing easy… I suppose burning it down would be easy). I removed the wall and will be fixing the rot.
My question involves rebuilding the floor for the shower and bathroom in general. Should I put concrete backer on the floor including in the shower area and rebuild the wall on top of that (the wall is needed for the shower) or build the wall directly on wood floor then put down concrete backer for the floor tile leaving the shower area directly on the wood as you show in your series on building a shower floor? I ask because it seems that the extra floor would be fewer cuts of the concrete boards for me and stronger but I am worried about movement between the concrete backer and wall.
Also do you have any good tips for raising the toilet flange connections since I will be adding significant height (the floor in the bathroom was carpet, )
Thanks for all the good info you put out there.
Hey Brian,
I would build the wall first then install the backer. There’s really no reason to have the backer under the shower floor (it add zero structural strength) but it doesn’t hurt anything. You can get a flange extender at any big box store that will slip into the current flange and raise it.
Hi Roger,
Doing a backsplash. Ripped off orange formica and there was 1/4 inch plywood underneath nailed onto horse plaster. Was afraid to rip out plywood due to opening a bag of worms. Bought some 1/4 inch durorock and plan to screw to plywood where studs are and tile. only problem are the edges that protrude 1/4 inch on 3 ends. How do I make transition on ends or should I go directly onto plywood which I know you will disagree with as I do. Transition is killing me. Do I use same screws as with 1/2 inch cement board?
Thank you,
Paul
Hey Paul,
The only way to have a flat transition is to remove the plywood. If you do have a 1/4″ protrusion you can cut down some 90 degree edge tiles to fit over it (google ’tile mud cap’) or get a pencil rail or some type of trim to install along the edge. Most pencil trims are 1/2″ – 1″ thick so it would cover the edge of the backer as well as the tile. Yes, same screws as the 1/2″ board.
Thank you Roger for advice.
Paul
Roger,
Can I use thinset mortar adhesive with a combination glass and stone tile for backsplash? Bought from home depot. Also would it be easier to use the pre mixed thinset in bucket
Thank you.
Paul
Hi Paul,
The bucket may say thinset mortar, but it’s just mastic with sand in it. Mastic should not be used with any type of natural stone. The organic oils in it may soak through and stain the surface of the stone. It should not be used with glass of any type, either. Glass is impervious and the mastic can not cure. You need to use regular powdered thinset for that.
Sorry.
Then I will be using the mapei white powdered mortar thinset for backsplash. I used this thinset about a year ago for another backsplash and have kept well covered and it seems fine. Have half a bag left. That will be fine . Right? Thank you again.
Paul
It should be fine.
How do I affix tile to a ceiling?
Hi Kirby,
Like this: installing tile to a shower ceiling
I have a not-totally-but-mostly unrelated question: when and how do you clean thinset from the grout lines/tile surfaces when laying tile? I’m *very* slow, and that’s partly because it seems like when I use enough thinset to get full coverage on the back of my tiles, I inevitably get lots of thinset in the grout lines. And then inevitably get lots of thinset on the tiles when I try to scrape it out of the grout lines (usually with a spacer). So my tile-laying process goes something like this: Mix up half a bag of thinset. Spread enough thinset to lay 2-3 tiles. Lay those tiles. Frantically clean out grout lines. Frantically wipe thinset off tiles as a result of cleaning out grout lines. Send the husband out to rinse out my tile cleaning rags while I put down enough thinset for a few more tiles. Repeat, with increasing panic as the thinset starts to set, and usually with a few “ACK! Dirty tiles 2 rows up!” moments.
Surely there’s a better way…
Hi Nicole,
I keep a small bucket of water and a sponge next to me. If you lay your tiles in this manner: Absolutely flat floor tile, it will keep most of the thinset out of your grout lines.
You said that square-notch trowels put down more mud than V-notch trowels. I am not sure that is correct, or at least it needs some qualification. Let’s consider, say, 1/4″x1/4″ trowels. In both a square-notch AND a V-notch, 50% of the area is open, and 50% of it is blocked by the trowel. I don’t understand why one would pass more mud than the other. (It would just be distributed differently.)
Yes, 50% of the outer edge of both notches is open. As it moves toward the center of the trowel, however, the square notch trowels remain consistent (the open area) and leave a full 1/4″ bead of thinset on your line. The v-notch trowel is sloped to an inverse v to the inside of the trowel, it leaves a ‘v’ of thinset as your line. With the v notch 50% of the notch is only open at the outside of the trowel, it slopes down to 0. The v-notch trowel actually leaves about 1/3 as much thinset as the square notch.
I don’t think you are quite correct about this. It is true that at the outer edge of the trowel, only 50% of the square notch is open. However, at the edge, 100% of the V-notch is open, not 50%. (The tooth comes to a point.)
For both trowels, let us consider 1 inch of the trowel’s edge, and consider two types of areas within it: the open area that the mud comes through, and the metal part that the mud does not. In the case of a square notch, the calculation of the area is easy. The open area of each notch is (1/4″ wide)*(1/4″ tall)= 1/16 sq. in. The closed area of each notch is also (1/4″ wide)*(1/4″ tall)= 1/16 sq. in. In one inch of the trowel’s edge, there are 2 open channels, and 2 closed areas. So, the total open area (per inch of trowel) is 2*(1/16 sq. in.) = 1/8 sq. in. Likewise, the total closed area is 2*(1/16 sq. in.) = 1/8 sq. in.
For the V-notch, the open area is a triangle. Recall that the area of a triangle is 1/2*height*width. In this case, it is 1/2*(1/4″)*(1/4″)=1/32 sq. in. Likewise, the closed region is an upside-down triangle, and its area is also 1/2*(1/4″)*(1/4″) = 1/32 sq. in. At first blush, it may seem that you are correct, but notice that in one inch along the edge of the trowel, there are FOUR open triangles and FOUR closed ones. The total open area is then 4*(1/32 sq. in.)=1/8 sq. in. The total area of the closed regions is also 4**(1/32 sq. in.) = 1/8 sq. in. These are the same values as for the square notch.
My contention is that both the V-notch and the square-notch trowels of the same nominal size pass the same amount of mud. However, the distribution is different. The square notch has more of the mud located “higher”; the V-notch leaves a comb of mud that is closer to the situation after pressing your tile in, i.e., the ridges are closer to being flattened.
You’re correct Angie, I was mixing up my v-notches. A 1/4 v-notch will leave the same amount of thinset as the same size u-notch.
I absolutely love your elf self! I learned a lot by reading that first ebook about selecting a method of waterproofing.
My question is about glass tiles on the Kerdi sheet. My contractor is concerned that glass tiles will not stick well to the kerdi sheet. I understand that glass tiles are smooth and not textured like ceramic tiles, but I think (and infer from what I read) that it shouldn’t make a difference if perhaps a stronger high grade mortar or mastic (forgive me–I couldn’t read all of your articles–so I don’t know the difference) Is there stronger “sticky stuff” he can use on the tiles to make them stick better to the Kerdi sheet?
I sincerely hope you are still out there on the internet somewhere and will receive this and answer it.
Thank you very much.
Hi Mary,
Schluter recommends that glass tile not be installed over kerdi. It has nothing to do with it not bonding to the kerdi, everything to do with it not bonding well with unmodified thinset. So that said – it can be installed with modified thinset over kerdi just fine.