In my previous post about thinsets I explained what modified thinsets are and how they came about. That post actually started out as this post, I tend to get sidetracked by beer my dog.

Unmodified thinsets, in one form or another, have been around forever. With the expanded use of modified thinsets, the unmodified version had nearly gone by the wayside with everyone except us hard-headed setters who bought unmodified thinsets and added liquid admixes to them – to create modified thinsets. I no longer do this for my modified thinsets, but it was a hard habit to kick. :D

The reemergence (I know – doesn’t even look like a word) of unmodified thinsets came about in November of 2001. At an NTCA / Schluter workshop the statement was made that the preferred method of installation over ditra is the use of an unmodified thinset.

Mass confusion ensued.

This has continued to this day with even seasoned professionals questioning if unmodified should be used, and if so – why and which unmodified to use. This problem is compounded for do-it-yourselfers who don’t have nearly the understanding nor material and product access that we do. It’s difficult to find and purchase. If it helps, it’s sometimes difficult for us as well.

So let’s see if I can shed a little light on the subject and at least let you know which ones to look for and where. This list WILL be a bit biased. If you’ve read anything here you know I’m a Laticrete diehard. It is, and will continue to be, my preferred manufacturer for nearly every tile and stone setting material needed. That said typed, I do realize that other companies exist. :D

Just like modified thinsets, there are different levels or grades of unmodified thinsets. This is normally measured by the ratio or percentage of cement to sand in the mix. The higher the cement content, the better the thinset. More cement, more sticky, more stable.

It is also, in part, due to the type and percentage of whatever retention product is in the mix. For most thinsets (as far as I can tell – ancient guarded secret and all…) a powder called ‘hydrated lime’ is used. It is the same lime used by brick masons in order to retain water in the cement mix for a longer period of time, thus making the cured product stronger.

So that’s how unmodified thinsets are ‘grouped’ or graded – the ratio of those three items in the mix. Now that you know that, let’s group them in order according to how they are graded and perform. I’ll do this by manufacturer since most people only have one or two specific brands available.

Laticrete 317

Laticrete 317

Laticrete:

Laticrete 272 is considered the premium (best) – then Laticrete 317. There is negligible difference in these thinsets unless an admix is added to make them modified. For use as an unmodified I prefer the 317. Although they classify the 272 as their ‘premium’, they’re nearly identical.

The difference in these two thinsets: “There is more portland cement in LATICRETE 272 and the sand in the

Laticrete 272

Laticrete 272

LATICRETE 272 is slightly finer so it is a little bit creamier.” (Thanks to Anita at Laticrete for this clarification) The 272 contains 25-35% portland while the 317 contains 20-30% portland.

On the consumer side Laticrete products often have a different name – you may be familiar with Laticrete MegaBond. That is nearly identical to the 317. I use 317 for almost all of my unmodified thinset needs.

Mapei kerabond

Mapei kerabond

Mapei:

Kerabond: This is considered Mapei’s premium unmodified thinset. It works very well for any Schluter product

 

 

 

 

 

Mapei Keraset

Mapei Keraset

Keraset: This is Mapei’s mid-range unmodified. It’s not ideal but it works if it’s the only available. Give it extra time to fully cure! If you use Keraset be sure to wait a FULL 24 hours, at least, before the next step.

 

 

 

 

 

Mapei keraflor

Mapei keraflor

Keraflor: The ‘economy’ level unmodified from Mapei. I would not recommend using it for any shower applications or any regularly used flooring surface over ditra. Best to find one of the other two.

 

 

 

 

 

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Custom:

Uncoupling Mat Mortar: This is Custom’s premium unmodified mortar made specifically for Custom’s spiderweb mat and other ditra-like products. It is difficult to find and has limited availability. If you can get your hands on it, use it.

Masterblend: Currently Custom’s only readily available (to my knowledge) unmodified thinset. It is available at most Home Depots. It’s a good sack of powder if you have a flood and need a makeshift levy. That’s it. Any reputable tile contractor will tell you not to use this for anything – ever. I’m one of them. The only really good thing I can say about it – It is an unmodified thinset.*

Custom masterblend

Custom masterblend

*This is by no means any type of intentional slander or slam against Custom building products! They make some great products. Masterblend, however, is not one of them in my opinion. And that’s all this is – my personal opinion. I do not consider this a viable product with which to install tile or stone over Schluter products.

 

 

Tec SturdiSet

Tec SturdiSet

Tec:

Sturdi-Set: Tec’s premium unmodified. A good unmodified thinset for nearly anything requiring one.

 

 

 

 

Tec full set plus

Tec full set plus

Full-Set Plus: Tec’s other unmodified. Comparable to a mid-range unmodified. It’ll work in a pinch if needed, but ensure full cure time before the next installation stage.

 

 

DitraSet

DitraSet

Bostik (Hydroment):

Ditra-Set: This is the best product with which to set anything over kerdi or ditra – it was specifically manufactured for that purpose. The availability is extremely limited, however. Most professionals don’t have ready access to it, let alone regular homeowners. So just plan on not finding this.

If you are lucky enough to find it you’ll feel ecstatic, like the luckiest person alive! If you don’t find it you’ll just think ‘Well, FloorElf told me I wouldn’t find it…’. See – win-win for me. Yay.

So in the groups above it breaks down like this:

Best:

Bostik Ditra-Set

Laticrete 317 (Laticrete MegaBond)

Laticrete 272

Mapei KeraBond

Tec Sturdi-Set

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Works if limited options exist:

Mapei KeraSet

Tec Full-Set Plus

It’s last call – find something:

Mapei KeraFlor

Go home alone and hold onto your wallet:

Custom Masterblend

So there you have it. The most commonly available unmodified thinsets and where they rate on the scale of quality. As I stated, this list is biased. The list above is the order in which I would use them if given the choice. Regardless of the order under each heading (Best, Works, etc.) this is how they are rated by their respective manufacturers.

Do not be surprised if you cannot find one of the quality products easily. They are not commonly stocked by regular big box stores except for the Laticrete Megabond. The best place to look for any of them would be at a tile supply shop. If, however, you are limited to normal big box stores, you can find some of the common products there.

Lowes will either stock Laticrete or Mapei. Home Depot will only (currently) carry Custom products. Menards normally stocks Mapei. Beyond those three, I have no idea what you may have around you.

You can always check the respective company’s website to find the nearest supplier. Since you will be looking for one of the more uncommon products keep in mind that just because you have a supplier near you does not mean you’ll find that particular product there. It’s always best to call the customer service line and ask them directly where you can buy the product you want.

One last thing – before anyone asks: adding more portland cement to a particular product may or may not make it better. Adding more cement to masterblend, for instance, will not make it comparable to kerabond. It doesn’t work like that. These thinsets, as all tile installation products, are put together in specific ratios in order to accomplish what the company wants. It may work, and it may not work. Unless you personally know someone in the chemistry department of the manufacturing plant there is no accurate way to tell.

ANSI Specifications

All thinsets, as well as any tile installation product, will have a specific ANSI (American National Standards Institute) number on the bag. This determines what type of product it is and what ANSI standard it meets. The number for unmodified thinset is A118.1. The ‘.1’ at the end determines the unmodified version. If you find a thinset you are curious about, and it is not on this list, look for that number. If it has A118.1 AND more numbers after that (with no mention of admix) then it is a MODIFIED thinset.

For instance, if it says on the bag that the product meets ANSI standards A118.1, A118.4 and A188.11 then it is a modified thinset. All modified thinsets meet the criteria set forth for unmodified thinsets as well, that’s why the A118.1 is on there.

ALSO! (I know it’s a pain, I live it) Most bags of UNmodified thinset have the A118.1 number as well as the A118.4, possibly A118.11 also  If it does it will plainly state that it only meets the last two standards (for modified) when mixed with the appropriate admix. Masterblend states that it meets all three – with the addition of admix (liquid latex). Don’t let this confuse you. They cannot legally misstate the ANSI numbers.

I hope this helps clear up a little bit of confusion about these products and helps you determine which would be appropriate or best for your project. As always, if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask them below. I answer them all. I’m just super cool like that. 8)

 

{ 695 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

  • Dan

    Hi Roger,
    I’m ready to instal Kerdi on my shower walls. I have a year old, unopened bag of Laticrete 317 left over from my last project. Is it ok to use it, or for the 10 bucks should I just go get a new bag?
    Thanks, Dan

    • Roger

      Hi Dan,

      I would go get a new bag. That one may work, but new is extremely cheap insurance to me. Humidity plays hell on stored powders.

  • Cody

    I am installing hot water in floor heat using aluminum heat transfer plates for 1/2 inch pex tubing. what would be the best modified thin set to adhear ditra mat to the heat transfer plates and the plywood. thanks for the info

    • Roger

      Hi Cody,

      Laticrete 254 platinum.

  • Bob M

    Great website!

    I am installing ditra over .625″ of flooring, and .625″ of sub-flooring, both are plywood. I understand I need to use the appropriate thinset under the Ditra, made for the wood to Ditra bond. The Ditra website says to use an ANSI 118.11 thinset.

    I was also going to use a self leveling underlayment to fill a hollow in a corner. Do I do this between floor and subfloor? Or between subfloor and ditra? And does this change the type of thinset needed (in the hollow area)?

    Thanks in advance.

    • Roger

      Hi Bob,

      Between the subfloor and ditra. Same thinset is fine.

  • Matt

    Hi Roger,

    I am in the middle of installing a new shower and have put up a full Kerdi system including Kerdi-board walls with the Kerdi shower pan. I sealed the seams and screw holes with Kerdi membrane using Ditra Set. Based on the research I did up front, that approach felt bulletproof.

    After leaving the installation set for a week prior to tiling, I went into the bathroom and starting cleaning a little a realized that i could wipe the exposed Ditra Set off of the wall with a little water on a sponge. After noticing that, I soaked the edge of the membrane covering a seem for a few seconds and realized that i can pull up the edge of the membrane as the wet Ditra Set dissolved in the water.

    Any ideas what went wrong? I did as much research as I could, spent the money to get the best materials (I think?), and followed the directions on all products. And yet my bullet-proof, water-resistant shower installation fails with the wipe of a sponge? Please help – thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Matt,

      The only thing that went wrong is that you wiped it. Unmodified thinset is not a wear surface. That means that it does not deal well when it comes in direct contact with variable materials. Once behind your tile it will be just fine. It did not dissolve, you simply wiped the excess off the surface. It’s completely normal, and it’s completely fine. Really. :D

  • Jeff

    Ok, I’m worried. I just installed the Kerdi waterproofing membrane over cement backer board using unmodified thinset. I did not notice until afterwards that the bag said floor only. I have not started tiling yet but all the membrane is up. What should I do. Thanks.

    • Roger

      Hi Jeff,

      Leave it. What specific thinset did you use? And if it says floor only it should be fine for a wall, but I’ve never seen that on a bag of thinset.

  • Ross

    So I made a bone headed decision and did not do full research before buying supplies at Home Depot. I purchased a 50 lb. bag of CustomBlend to re-tile my shower. Did not grab any Admix either, mixed straight up with water. Started tonight slapping up some 8″ x 12″ porcelain tiles onto HardieBacker, which was sealed with Redguard. After reading this article, how screwed am I in the long run? And when I resume tiling at a later date, should I just continue to use the same stuff for consistency (and keep the beer at the ready) or change thinsets mid renovation?

    Thanks for your time

    • Roger

      Hi Ross,

      Change thinsets. If at all possible either remove the tile you have on now, or spray it with water and cover it with plastic for 24 hours (this helps the hydration process so the concrete can fully crystallize into the pores of the redgard). That will give you the strongest bond possible with that thinset. It should be fine, I just really wouldn’t use it by choice. The fact that you’re installing over redgard actually helps a lot, it helps the thinset retain moisture for a longer period, giving you a stronger bond.

  • Frank

    I am using unmodified over Kerdi in a shower. The bag says for tiles of 12 by 12 or larger. I am using standard subway tiles, does it matter?

    • Roger

      Hi Frank,

      Nope, it’ll be just fine.

      • Frank

        Thanks, thought so. I continued using unmodified past the Kerdi onto drywall, I didn’t switch over to modified. I didn’t want to throw any out, will this cause any issues?

        • Roger

          No problems at all.

  • Jack

    hello Roger, quick question. I am laying Ditra over cement board on floor.
    Do I use unmodified thinset ( Ditra-Set) or a modified thinset. Thank you for your time

    • Roger

      Hi Jack,

      Unmodified. And yes, modified would work, but you’ll lose your warranty. So don’t do that. But it will work just fine. :D

  • Joe

    Hi, Roger,
    Thanks for the very informative site! I’m working on large format tile installation in three different applications: Floor over Ditra, Floor over slab, and Shower Walls over Kerdi-board. I have the local orange and blue big box stores, and I found the Mapei uncoupling membrane mortar, which I bought for the Floor over Ditra tile. Can I use that same product for the shower walls? Then what about the Floor/Concrete? I noticed that Mapei has a modified thin-set product that is specifically for large format tile. Is this a good product? Any advice would be helpful!

    • Roger

      Hi Joe,

      Yes, the uncoupling mortar will work for everything you need unmodified for. It’s good stuff. The large format specific thinset is actually just a medium-bed mortar, but yes, it works well also.

  • Chris

    Roger,

    I just did my first shower floor waterproofing job using the Schluter kerdi fabric over a traditional mudbed and used mapies keraflor to attach it to the mudbed and after reading your article I am getting worried. So should I redo it or will it be ok. But I will use a better product for the tile install.

    • Roger

      Hi Chris,

      It will be fine on the shower floor. Make sure you flood test it just to make sure.

  • david shaw

    Hello Roger, My lowes doesn’t stock Mapei kerabond but does have Mapei uncoupling membrane mortar. I am going to use Schluter foam pan and curb and kerdi membrane, their Ditra is uncoupling membrane, so can this mortar be used with kerdi and pan as well? thanks Dave

    • Roger

      Hi David,

      Yes, it’s good stuff.

  • Jim

    Hi Roger,
    So I was just calling around to get a hold of Ditraset and one of the tile shops that carry Schluter products carried Litracrete 317 so I may just go with that to attach the Kerdi to Hardibacker for my shower walls. However, they told me that most contractors utilize a Mapei Ultralight to put the tiles on top of the Kerdi. I did not see that in your list above and I also believe that this is a modified thinset. Everything I’ve read on the Schluter products states not to use this but wondering if this version of Mapei is different and would you recommend it? Or am I better off just sticking with the 317?
    Jim

    • Roger

      Hi Jim,

      It’s not on the list because it’s a modified mortar. I would stick with the 317, it works very well.

      • Jim

        Ok, so I will go with the 317 between the Kerdi and Hardibacker. As far as the next step, I was planning on using this same thinset to install porcelain tiles. However, after reading the instructions on the Laticrete bag, it states that for porcelain tiles, it must be fortified with a flexible additive, which I would assume makes this a modified thin set. Based on this, what do you recommend? Should I use a different thinset altogether? Not sure which manufacturer I should listen too – Schluter or Latricrete…

        • Roger

          Hi Jim,

          Just use the straight 317. Believe me, I’ve tried to take out porcelain installed over ditra with it – it bonds. :D

  • L

    Uh…train of thought derails often. Espec. when typing/texting it with both thumbs

  • L

    Thanks again….that wicking durock worry at ease. Sorry I missed it in the manual. Was probably laughing over the Leprechan comment.

    I do have a ‘pan’ of sorts left from my hammering and chiseling that is 3″ deep. 30″ side is smooth and runs under metal tract and studs. Rusty bottom tract I carefully replaced as well as door jamb metal stud. Lots of measuring, leveling, drilling, reinforcing involved.Cannot move that skeleton of a wall as it holds plumbing so tract overhang of inch will have to be mudded in to the metal. Let me recommend everyone spurge on a $3.47 corner level.
    The other walls in pan have ‘ain’t gonna budge with a jackhammer’ places that stick out, and shimming with an extra layer of durock seems best. Will let the top sheet set in the mud preslope.
    If anyone needs some advice on taking a locked up set screw out of water mixer handle, I just McGyver’ed one out. (why don’t people use a little chapstick to pack those? I use it on all my screw threads.)
    A few more steps before I have to bug you again.
    ~L

    • L

      Been reading again the Liquid topical shower waterproofing book. As for corners of durock (and am assuming wall meeting ceiling & floor are corners?), pages 67 & 74 have me confused. Correct me where my train of thought detrains…Definitely leave mentioned gaps between sheets. Side to side seems thinset/tape. Corners at walls silicone and later tape and thinset? Again this will be a liquid topical shower.

      • Roger

        Yes, silicone between the sheets, then tape and mud, then liquid.

  • Terry

    Hi Roger,
    Another unmodified thinset question. I have found TEC’s Uncoupling Membrane Mortar at a local tile store while shopping for tile. Used Versabond to attach Kerdi to Hardibacker without any problem and dog not bursting into flames. Is the consistency for the thinset (pancake batter) that I used to attach the Kerdi the same for attaching 12″ X 12″ tiles to the Kerdi or does it need to be sligthy firmer. Will use a 1/4 X 1/4 X 3/8 trowel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

    • Roger

      Hi Terry,

      It needs to be considerably thicker, regular consistency to attach tile to the kerdi.

      • Terry

        Thanks Roger. No more pancake batter.. Moving on to peanut butter..

  • LaNell

    This is a rerun of sorts. With tiny spacers and large porcelain tile, will the 317 hold it on walls ’til it sets up? No pure silicone setting followed up later with grouting? All over Duroc.
    P.S. I want your books… Hope they come as real books as my internet is by phablet only at present.

    • Roger

      Yes, 317 is more than adequate. All my manuals are electronic files (ebooks), not physical books. Sorry. They are pdf files, though, so they are downloadable and readable on tablets.

      • L

        The eBooks ( thank you for extra effort in getting them to my electronic devices ) are great but with every job there is Murphy to contend with. I am now sure he is Leprachaun… 
        My project will be a shower done w/topical drain and HYDROBAN waterproofing. 

        Knocked out and hauled debris from shower months ago and still researching every step. I am working with metal stud walls, rough concrete slab from builder  shower failure of 30″ X 54″. That with a sunken ‘shower pan area’ that is 3.5″ or so deep around edges/walls and  with 12″ X 14″ hole through slab around somewhat centered drain. Can I add photos? They will boggle. 

        That center hole was full of sand, letting me know why tiles around drain collapsed in, now with pea gravel 4″ deep but that isn’t right yet,  is it? Scoop that out? 

        A Laticrete drain on my list, have a bag of Laticrete 272 (stickier?) and 80 lbs. of mud bed mix on hand already, 12  3×5′ sheets of Durock (have to build out walls to overhang shower pan area so double Durock) and can find only double width concrete bricks for curb. Big ones.
        Let me run through initial quirky ? ‘s that come to mind before I run through $150 more in gas gathering what I need and returning what I have that I don’t. 

        1. I have a 3.5″ deep pan in solid concrete left after a hammered out demo I did,  so should I complicate with curb bricks? Gonna make it pretty narrow if so.  I am thinking to  thinset-skimcoat then slam in bed mud preslope to sides to even it out to jive with where walls are. This cannot be imagined without psychic abilities and/or photos. 

        2. Set Durock walls on thinset topped bed mud WITH a 1/4″ expansion gap and generous bead of silicone? 

        Or INTO the mud bed?  Taped and thinset wall to edge of pan? What page of book should I find this on? 

        3. For myself and anyone else who might wonder,  do curb bricks over slab need put together with metal lathe screwed (I do not do nails) over it? Apply it how? Or simply set bricks level lengthwise and tilted in to shower with thinset under/between/all over? 
        Enough to bother you with for now, so reply only after you have had some beer..uh, rest

        • L

          Oh. And the thinset skimcoat over slab how thick and let it set up or slope mud bed mix on top while it’s wet?

          • Roger

            Doesn’t matter how thick, just use the same trowel you’re gonna use to set tile. Do the deck while it’s wet, it’s there to bond your deck mud to the slab.

        • Roger

          You can pack the pea gravel down and fill over it with deck mud as you create your base.

          1. You need a curb of some sort unless you have a sunken substrate and can do curbless. In that case you don’t need bricks.

          2. When using hydroban you can embed the backer into the deck mud. It all gets waterproofed over the face – no way for water to wick. It is in the liquid topical manual.

          3. No lath needed, just thinset the bricks and paint right over them with the hydroban. Tile directly to them.

  • Josh

    Hi Roger,

    Thanks for doing this site. I’ve read a lot, far more than my better half would like, as the shower isn’t done yet. We have 18 huskies :bonk: , I want to get it right….

    I am doing a Schluter shower, with the foam pan and have come to the point of installing the kerdi. I have no access to Laticrete or any of the un-modified mortars you have listed. Lowe’s has only Mapei keraflor for an option and I won’t mention the orange stores availabliity. I finally found a bag of TEC ditra-set and came home, elated and broke ($50/bag), only to find that TEC does not recommend installation over drywall, which is of course what I have on my walls. Short story long, use it? Use something else less expensive that will work, I have ~300 sq/ft of tile to do in the house and was considering using Ditra, but at $50/bag, it would break me. remove sheet rock and go where from there?

    Thanks again, and in advance for your time helping me.
    Josh

    • Roger

      Hi Josh,

      Yes, go ahead and use it. It works very well, as a matter of fact. It’s a great unmodified mortar. You may be able to check and see if lowes can order ditra-set for you and have it shipped to the store, they can do that at most locations.

      I want a male husky puppy. A lot. I’ll pay shipping. :D

  • Jon

    Hey Elf (I would call you Roger, but that seems humane),
    I can get Bostik Ditra-set, or Laticrite 317. The difference is that the Ditra-set is twice the price ($18/bag) and an extra 40 min drive. Given those parameters, would you go with the Bostik or Laticrete?

    My Project:
    3/4 tg osb over 19.5 oc joists
    Ditra
    1/4 13×13 ceramic tiles
    spectralock grout.

    Thanks,
    elf-in-training :guedo:

    • Roger

      I would go with the 317 even not given those parameters. :D

  • Shajan

    How about TEC 50-lbs Gray Powder Dry-Thinset Mortar
    Item #: 561922 | Model #: 7106863121 at Lowes?
    They say it’s made especially for Ditra.

    • Roger

      That is Tec’s new(ish) uncoupling mortar. It works very well, it’s good stuff.

  • othar

    wow! thanks for the great info, I’ve been a little lost on different thinsets until now. quick questions-
    1- do you use laticrete 317 for everything that touches the kerdi? kerdi to wall. kerdi to any kind of tile.

    2- will laticrete 317 stick to drywall mud, primed walls, or painted walls?

    thanks, o

    • Roger

      Hi Othar,

      Yes, yes, and…um, yes. :D If your walls are painted it’s always better to rough up the paint a bit with sandpaper to allow a better bond.

  • Michael

    Hi Roger,
    I’m installing a tile kitchen floor using Schluter-Ditra, my options available as far as unmodified thin-set are Mapei Floor & Wall Tile Mortar, and Custom Building Products, Customblend Standard Thin-set Mortar. Kerabond and TEC, Uncoupling Membrane Mortar can be ordered but would take 2-3 weeks before arriving and I’m pressed for time. Would either of the first two choices be acceptable. Thank you so much I enjoy all your useful info.

    • Michael

      Hi Roger,
      I just found TEC Full Set Plus Thin-set Mortar 380 at a local store so I’m guessing from your unmodified thin-set rankings that, that would be my best choice if I do not want to wait for a three week order to arrive.

      • Roger

        Yes.

    • Roger

      Hi Michael,

      Personally I would wait for the tec, but the mapei floor and wall will work fine.

  • Rodney Hamilton

    will unmodified thinset (which is called for with a Kerdi shower system) hold my tiles (porcelain or ceramic) to the wall as well as modified thinset

    • Roger

      Hi Rodney,

      Yes it will.

  • Rodney Hamilton

    to kerdi or not to kerdi it sure looks like a good product for the diyer, but some “old school” installers say it is not that good. Your thoughts on this Elf

    • Roger

      Hi Rodney,

      Move forward or DIE!

      Everyone who is not educated in a method does not necessarily feel comfortable with it. I’m an old-school installer. :D

  • Andy

    Hi Roger,
    I am installing a Kerdi system in a shower stall I am adding to my basement. I am using greenboard as a substrate. Before I found your site, I installed the corner strips of the Kerdi using the crappy Custom thinset from Home Depot. I installed the pan using the same. I have not installed the curb yet and I have not applied Kerdi to the floor or walls. I have found Laticrete 317 at a tile store, so I will be using that for the rest. Should I re-do the corners using that? If so, do I just rip the Kerdi down and sand off as much of the Custom stuff as I can? Thanks for any insight.

    • Roger

      Hi Andy,

      I’d just leave it. The kerdi-band junction is where it is bonded to the wall, not where the kerdi overlaps and forms the waterproof seam. It’ll be fine.

  • Michael Harkins

    can I install ditra on top of dal seal

    • Roger

      Yes (still). :D