In my previous post about thinsets I explained what modified thinsets are and how they came about. That post actually started out as this post, I tend to get sidetracked by beer my dog.

Unmodified thinsets, in one form or another, have been around forever. With the expanded use of modified thinsets, the unmodified version had nearly gone by the wayside with everyone except us hard-headed setters who bought unmodified thinsets and added liquid admixes to them – to create modified thinsets. I no longer do this for my modified thinsets, but it was a hard habit to kick. :D

The reemergence (I know – doesn’t even look like a word) of unmodified thinsets came about in November of 2001. At an NTCA / Schluter workshop the statement was made that the preferred method of installation over ditra is the use of an unmodified thinset.

Mass confusion ensued.

This has continued to this day with even seasoned professionals questioning if unmodified should be used, and if so – why and which unmodified to use. This problem is compounded for do-it-yourselfers who don’t have nearly the understanding nor material and product access that we do. It’s difficult to find and purchase. If it helps, it’s sometimes difficult for us as well.

So let’s see if I can shed a little light on the subject and at least let you know which ones to look for and where. This list WILL be a bit biased. If you’ve read anything here you know I’m a Laticrete diehard. It is, and will continue to be, my preferred manufacturer for nearly every tile and stone setting material needed. That said typed, I do realize that other companies exist. :D

Just like modified thinsets, there are different levels or grades of unmodified thinsets. This is normally measured by the ratio or percentage of cement to sand in the mix. The higher the cement content, the better the thinset. More cement, more sticky, more stable.

It is also, in part, due to the type and percentage of whatever retention product is in the mix. For most thinsets (as far as I can tell – ancient guarded secret and all…) a powder called ‘hydrated lime’ is used. It is the same lime used by brick masons in order to retain water in the cement mix for a longer period of time, thus making the cured product stronger.

So that’s how unmodified thinsets are ‘grouped’ or graded – the ratio of those three items in the mix. Now that you know that, let’s group them in order according to how they are graded and perform. I’ll do this by manufacturer since most people only have one or two specific brands available.

Laticrete 317

Laticrete 317

Laticrete:

Laticrete 272 is considered the premium (best) – then Laticrete 317. There is negligible difference in these thinsets unless an admix is added to make them modified. For use as an unmodified I prefer the 317. Although they classify the 272 as their ‘premium’, they’re nearly identical.

The difference in these two thinsets: “There is more portland cement in LATICRETE 272 and the sand in the

Laticrete 272

Laticrete 272

LATICRETE 272 is slightly finer so it is a little bit creamier.” (Thanks to Anita at Laticrete for this clarification) The 272 contains 25-35% portland while the 317 contains 20-30% portland.

On the consumer side Laticrete products often have a different name – you may be familiar with Laticrete MegaBond. That is nearly identical to the 317. I use 317 for almost all of my unmodified thinset needs.

Mapei kerabond

Mapei kerabond

Mapei:

Kerabond: This is considered Mapei’s premium unmodified thinset. It works very well for any Schluter product

 

 

 

 

 

Mapei Keraset

Mapei Keraset

Keraset: This is Mapei’s mid-range unmodified. It’s not ideal but it works if it’s the only available. Give it extra time to fully cure! If you use Keraset be sure to wait a FULL 24 hours, at least, before the next step.

 

 

 

 

 

Mapei keraflor

Mapei keraflor

Keraflor: The ‘economy’ level unmodified from Mapei. I would not recommend using it for any shower applications or any regularly used flooring surface over ditra. Best to find one of the other two.

 

 

 

 

 

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Custom:

Uncoupling Mat Mortar: This is Custom’s premium unmodified mortar made specifically for Custom’s spiderweb mat and other ditra-like products. It is difficult to find and has limited availability. If you can get your hands on it, use it.

Masterblend: Currently Custom’s only readily available (to my knowledge) unmodified thinset. It is available at most Home Depots. It’s a good sack of powder if you have a flood and need a makeshift levy. That’s it. Any reputable tile contractor will tell you not to use this for anything – ever. I’m one of them. The only really good thing I can say about it – It is an unmodified thinset.*

Custom masterblend

Custom masterblend

*This is by no means any type of intentional slander or slam against Custom building products! They make some great products. Masterblend, however, is not one of them in my opinion. And that’s all this is – my personal opinion. I do not consider this a viable product with which to install tile or stone over Schluter products.

 

 

Tec SturdiSet

Tec SturdiSet

Tec:

Sturdi-Set: Tec’s premium unmodified. A good unmodified thinset for nearly anything requiring one.

 

 

 

 

Tec full set plus

Tec full set plus

Full-Set Plus: Tec’s other unmodified. Comparable to a mid-range unmodified. It’ll work in a pinch if needed, but ensure full cure time before the next installation stage.

 

 

DitraSet

DitraSet

Bostik (Hydroment):

Ditra-Set: This is the best product with which to set anything over kerdi or ditra – it was specifically manufactured for that purpose. The availability is extremely limited, however. Most professionals don’t have ready access to it, let alone regular homeowners. So just plan on not finding this.

If you are lucky enough to find it you’ll feel ecstatic, like the luckiest person alive! If you don’t find it you’ll just think ‘Well, FloorElf told me I wouldn’t find it…’. See – win-win for me. Yay.

So in the groups above it breaks down like this:

Best:

Bostik Ditra-Set

Laticrete 317 (Laticrete MegaBond)

Laticrete 272

Mapei KeraBond

Tec Sturdi-Set

Custom Uncoupling Mat Mortar

Works if limited options exist:

Mapei KeraSet

Tec Full-Set Plus

It’s last call – find something:

Mapei KeraFlor

Go home alone and hold onto your wallet:

Custom Masterblend

So there you have it. The most commonly available unmodified thinsets and where they rate on the scale of quality. As I stated, this list is biased. The list above is the order in which I would use them if given the choice. Regardless of the order under each heading (Best, Works, etc.) this is how they are rated by their respective manufacturers.

Do not be surprised if you cannot find one of the quality products easily. They are not commonly stocked by regular big box stores except for the Laticrete Megabond. The best place to look for any of them would be at a tile supply shop. If, however, you are limited to normal big box stores, you can find some of the common products there.

Lowes will either stock Laticrete or Mapei. Home Depot will only (currently) carry Custom products. Menards normally stocks Mapei. Beyond those three, I have no idea what you may have around you.

You can always check the respective company’s website to find the nearest supplier. Since you will be looking for one of the more uncommon products keep in mind that just because you have a supplier near you does not mean you’ll find that particular product there. It’s always best to call the customer service line and ask them directly where you can buy the product you want.

One last thing – before anyone asks: adding more portland cement to a particular product may or may not make it better. Adding more cement to masterblend, for instance, will not make it comparable to kerabond. It doesn’t work like that. These thinsets, as all tile installation products, are put together in specific ratios in order to accomplish what the company wants. It may work, and it may not work. Unless you personally know someone in the chemistry department of the manufacturing plant there is no accurate way to tell.

ANSI Specifications

All thinsets, as well as any tile installation product, will have a specific ANSI (American National Standards Institute) number on the bag. This determines what type of product it is and what ANSI standard it meets. The number for unmodified thinset is A118.1. The ‘.1’ at the end determines the unmodified version. If you find a thinset you are curious about, and it is not on this list, look for that number. If it has A118.1 AND more numbers after that (with no mention of admix) then it is a MODIFIED thinset.

For instance, if it says on the bag that the product meets ANSI standards A118.1, A118.4 and A188.11 then it is a modified thinset. All modified thinsets meet the criteria set forth for unmodified thinsets as well, that’s why the A118.1 is on there.

ALSO! (I know it’s a pain, I live it) Most bags of UNmodified thinset have the A118.1 number as well as the A118.4, possibly A118.11 also  If it does it will plainly state that it only meets the last two standards (for modified) when mixed with the appropriate admix. Masterblend states that it meets all three – with the addition of admix (liquid latex). Don’t let this confuse you. They cannot legally misstate the ANSI numbers.

I hope this helps clear up a little bit of confusion about these products and helps you determine which would be appropriate or best for your project. As always, if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask them below. I answer them all. I’m just super cool like that. 8)

 

{ 695 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

  • Matt

    Hi Roger,

    Very helpful advice on this website and I have bought one of your bundles which has been very helpful. I am currently working on a shower.

    I have a low spot and I need to build up a 7″ x 27″ area by 1/4″ prior to installing tile. I am using Tec 338 Unmodified Dry Set Mortar for the larger project. Will this product work for 1/4″ build up?

    Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hey Matt,

      It depends. Over wood, no. Over concrete it can but you’ll need to do it in two or three layers.

  • Seth

    i installed a tile floor using ditra xl over plywood subfloor. how worried should i be of failure if the glue the supplier sold me to bond the ditra to the ply was unmodified? it was about 8 months ago, ensuite bath used daily, no issues yet.

    • Roger

      Hi Seth,

      It depends on how much flex and expansion your floor has. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. If it’s been 8 months it should be fine, but it may not. No real way to tell.

  • Zack

    Roger,
    Your site is awesome. I am redoing my shower in my 2 year old house because the idiots that installed the first one apparently knew nothing about showers. Anyway as I have been following your steps I just made a mistake. I used mapei floor thinset to tape the hardie backer boards! I know I know I didn’t read very well. So my question is should I scrape it all off and use one of the better thinsets you recommended or would I be okay to leave the taped parts and use the better stuff the rest of the way?
    Thanks. I appreciate your time.

    • Roger

      Hi Zack,

      As long as it’s actually thinset – the powder you mix with water – it will be just fine. If it’s the pre-mixed stuff sold in buckets then it needs to be removed.

  • Paula Kay

    I have multiple questions. Does my contractor need to tape cement board before using the Kerdi system around a tub? How long should the thin set dry before installing the Kerdi? How long should the outer layer of thinset dry before tiling? The thinset is unmodified, Kerabond.
    On the plywood floor he is also using the Kerdi membrane and thinset before the 12 x 12″ ceramic tile. Thanks for your advice.

    • Roger

      Hi Paula,

      No, he does not need to tape it when using kerdi. It does not need to cure at all before installing tile. Even the outer layer, it does not need to cure before installing tile. You can begin tiling right away.

  • Gerry

    Hi Roger –

    Understood, and thank you. I will look into SLC.

    A few more questions:

    What about using a small-aggregate concrete with reinforcing fiber, over a wash of thinset for adhesion, to fill in the largest valleys?

    Is this the same thing as concrete patch?

    Is there any thickness of thinset that is acceptable/structurally sound? What is the maximum acceptable thickness?

    Thanks again,
    Gerry

    • Gerry

      Roger –

      I’ve done some more research. Looks as though Mapei Ultraplan 1 Plus or Ultraplan Easy (with a name like that…) fit the bill – cementitious SLCs that have a dried compressive strength of 4100 psi or more after 28 days. Also specified as going from a featheredge to 1.5 inches. Will let you know how this works out.

      Thanks again very much for your advice – much appreciated!

      Best,
      Gerry

      • Roger

        Hi Gerry,

        Both products are very good, either should work fine.

  • Gerry

    Roger –

    First – thanks for an awesome site. I continue to learn so much from it.

    My question: I have to level a concrete slab in my basement prior to laying tile. The slab is new, fiber-reinforced and in great condition, but has hills and valleys with a maximum variation of 7/8″ top to bottom (not my work). I think that I need to make the top of the slab a lot flatter before I lay Ditra etc. As it happens I also need to raise the level of the floor to match the height of the existing steps. Given that the slab is uneven as described above, I need to add between 0″ and 13/16″ to the slab to bring the floor to the right (pre-Ditra) height (I will be grinding the remaining 1/16″ off a few high spots as well).

    What material should I use for this leveling? The choices that I know about are sand mix (5:1), thinset, patching compound or SLC (which I prefer not to use at all). I plan to build several walls on top of the slab as well, so while it will undoubtedly be easier to level the whole slab at one time, I have minor concerns about the compressive strength of whatever material I use to do the leveling, and I could always build those walls first and level around them if necessary. I initially thought of using sand mix but I suspect that in some areas the required height increase is too small for sand mix to work correctly – and in others the height increase is too large for thinset.

    Thanks very much in advance for your advice,
    Gerry

    • Roger

      Hi Gerry,

      Thinset won’t work, it’s not made for that. Deck mud (sand mix) needs to be a minimum of 3/4″ to remain intact and bear any type of load. Patch may work but you’ll need to check the compressive strength unless you’re building walls first. I know you said you don’t want to use slc, but that’s exactly what it’s made for, and your best option.

  • Rich

    Hi Roger,
    A wealth of information – much appreciated. I’m about to install gauged 12″ x 24″ slate (v. consistently a tad over 3/8″ thick) atop DITRA and despite the tons of great information in your posts, I’m still not clear on which way to go for the right unmodified medium-set that seems to be the ticket for this project. Out there on the web I’ve seen Kerabond mentioned, likewise Ditra-Set, likewise various Laticrete products but none seem to hit that sweet spot of the right stuff that will a) work properly for this particular large format stone project and b) have any chance of being available in my local area (western Washington). Your advice would be most welcome!

    • Roger

      Hi Rich,

      I would use Laticrete 317 for that, but kerabond will work as well. Not sure which you have available around you but those are the first two I would look for.

  • Laurie

    Hi Roger,

    We just laid 12×24 porcelain tiles over Ditra on our bathroom floor using Ditraset. The temp in the bathroom is 66-70 degrees. How long should we wait to grout? Thank you so much for your help. You have such great info on your website.

    • Roger

      Hi Laurie,

      24 hours should be sufficient.

  • Brooks

    Hey Roger quick question -great site

    I will be installing some 12×24 porcelain over ditra. I was planning on using laticrete 317 over the concrete and a modified thinset over plywood (252, or other) to set the ditra. My question is, I was planning on using a 1/2″ x 1/2″ square notch trowel to install the tile over the ditra. Is the 317 ok for such a heavy mortar bed?

    Thanks a bunch. Hope you are enjoying the snow…

    • Roger

      Hi Brooks,

      317 will work just fine.

  • big friendly giant

    Thanks for info, seems dislexic or i am. One would assume ditra-set for ditra ( un-sanded )//kerdi-set for kerdi (sanded) logical ?

    • Roger

      Yes, I was in a hurry. I don’t think they make Kerdi-set anymore. Ditra-set works for all of it.

  • big friendly giant

    QUOTE:  “It’s easy enough to be pleasant, when life flows along like a song, but the man worthwhile is the man with a smile, when everything goes dead wrong.”  Unknown

  • big friendly giant

    :-? Roger quick question, ditra-set vs kerdi-set. Are they different products ( other-than-name ) sanded/unsanded, mod/unmod. Etc. I orderd ditra-set but recieved kerdi-set. I am doing a bathroom remodel with ditra & kerdi. What to use for each component? Thank you for the excellent website & info. You are a floor guru!

    • Roger

      Hi Kevin,

      Kerdi-set is unsanded, unmodified thinset. Ditra-set is sanded. I don’t even know that they make kerdi-set anymore. It’s great for showers since you get less build-up in the corners, but can’t be used under ditra (CAN be, but shouldn’t anyway). You can use ditra-set for all of it (unless you’re putting ditra over plywood – in which case you want modified mortar).

  • Alex

    Hi Roger,
    I am laying a large tile 24″ x 24″ (porcelain tile with 1/8″ marble surface).
    1. In the shower, I have Schluter kerdi on the walls. Will Mapei Kerabond carry the load? Will there be any problems with slugging?
    2. Which mortar is better to use on the bathroom walls (drywalls outside of the shower)?
    3. On the plywood floor of the bathroom, I use Schluter Ditra. My intention is to use polymer modified mortar UNDER the ditra and Mapei Kerabond on top of the Ditra for laying tile.
    I would appreciate your advise.

    • Roger

      Hey Alex,

      1. No problem at all with kerabond. No slugging at all once it’s cured.

      2. Use the same modified mortar you’re using to bond ditra to the plywood floor.

      3. Your intention is correct, modified under, unmodified over.

  • Kenny

    Roger,
    Your website is very informative but I have a question of my own… Modified thin set and flex bond… Same thing or close? If so is flex bond ok to on the taped joints between Durock boards or use unmodified so it will not flex at all. Also I am on a slab and there is a crack in the foundation and the plumber told me to fill it with flex bond. So flex bond, then vapor barrier, then flex bond then tile correct? Or should I leave the crack, use ditra, then tile?

    • Roger

      Hi Kenny,

      Flexbond can be used to tape and mud seams. It doesn’t flex in that manner. It is not ‘flexible’, so to speak, but rather dissipates flexure from the underlying substrate without transferring to the tile installation. It dissipates movement, it doesn’t necessarily ‘allow’ it.

      No vapor barrier under tile on a floor, and do not fill your slab crack with flexbond (see above). I would use ditra then tile right over the crack provided it is flat and no one side of the crack is higher or lower than the other.

  • Paul

    Hi,

    Good site, lots of good information.

    I have a question about Masterblend. This product doesn’t exist anymore, (probably because you poopooed (not really a manly word) it…) But HD does carry a product called Versablend (by Custom) It’s a modified thinset. I am in NYC, no car and it’s local. This is also what a nearby tile supplied stocks (and where I bought it, a bit more $ but nicer guy!) …so the question is…any comments on Versabond? This is frankly just a whatdathink question, cause I am setting hardiboard with it now and over the weekend I will set marble on top of that…
    I had to put my dog down a couple of years ago so not really worried about the fire thing.

    Thanks again for all your info.

    Paul

    • Roger

      Hi Paul,

      Versabond is a very good thinset and one I actually use quite a bit.

  • mike

    All I can find localy is:

    Mapei KeraSet

    Would I use water or Mapei Keraply to mix it?

    Ditra and porcelien or ceramic tile.

    • Roger

      Hi Mike,

      You can mix it with the keraply but that makes it modified. Keraset will work if you give it an extra day to cure and be sure to mix it properly, it’s just not the ideal choice. Given time to cure, though, it works as well as most.

  • Brent

    Hi Roger,
    I am doing a shower with kerdi and have all the corners and screwheads covered with 317. I am doing 3×6 Carrara white marble and have some patterns on the walls with chair ail and 1×1 hex on mats. My question is can I use prolite instead of 317? I am afraid of sag with the 317 and on a little time crunch.

    Thanks a bunch.

    • Roger

      Hi Brent,

      Yes, but you’ll lose schluter’s warranty and you may want to let it cure a bit longer than normal.

  • Michele

    We are in the process of having polished marble 12×12 tile installed onto DITRA for master bathroom floor. Contractor is half way through installing floor tile and we have noticed fine scratches on the marble, which appears to be from the unmodified thinset he is using. He must have wiped it across the tile in some spots. Have you ever heard of this issue? I am not sure what brand thinset he used (he took it with him) but I do know he mentioned picking up white unmodified thinset this morning from our local shop which sells Laticrete products. FYI – we purchased unsanded grout for him to use but he hasn’t gotten to this step. Should we argue that he needs to pay to have the floors re-polished?

    • Roger

      Hi Michele,

      I would bring it to his attention immediately – before any more tile is set. It may be the thinset but I doubt it. It’s more likely that they are scratched in the process of shipping. Depending on how the marble is packaged it can be scratched easily while it’s in transit. Let him know there’s a problem! Now is the time to remedy it, not after it’s all set then he finds out you have a problem with it.

      If it is the thinset now is still the time to let him know. Do not let him set and complete the entire floor before bringing any issue to his attention. It’s much easier to remedy the problem during the setting process. FYI – the thinset is likely 317, I’ve never had a problem with it scratching marble. Not to say it won’t, there are a lot of factors that go into that not the least of which is the marble itself, I’ve just never had any issues with it.

  • Joy

    Dear Roger, We are planning an install of 18 inch ceramic tiles over Ditra XL. What would be the most economical unmodified thinset to use that would be available at your typical home store (depot, lowes, menards)? Also, what would the coverage be per bag using an 1/2 trowel on XL. Can’t find that particular info anywhere. I’m guessing only about 20sf. If I’m right, and I hope I’m not, this is going to get expensive on 500sf. Thank you in advance! Joy

    • Roger

      Hi Joy,

      Lowes here carries ditraset by Bostick. It’s made specifically for ditra and it’s only about $8 per bag. You may be able to order it through your lowes if they don’t carry it in stock. You will only get 20=25 square feet per bag with ditra XL. I know, it sucks. :D

      • Joy

        Hi Roger, thanks SO MUCH for your quick reply. It’s so nice of you to answer beginner’s questions on your forum. Lowes does not carry ditraset here, but out local Florida Tile place does for $16 a bag. Unfortunately, an additional issue has cropped up. We tore up a small section of the existing tile floor to
        see what we were going to be up against in the tear out. It looks like the previous installation was done with glue between the subfloor and cement board rather than thinset. I don’t see how that glue is going to come off smoothly enough to lay the ditra xl over it. So my question is can I put down a thin layer of plywood over the subfloor and then lay regular ditra on that: thus killing two birds with one stone by needing less ditraset on the regular ditra and not having to deal with the glue? If so, how smooth does the gluey subfloor layer need to be before laying the plywood. Thanks so much! Joy

        • Roger

          Yes, you can put a layer of 1/2″ ply over it (possibly even 3/8″ if need be – but I didn’t tell you that :D ). It needs to be smooth enough that there are no voids between the strips of glue – if that makes sense. So fairly flat.

          • Joy

            Hi Roger, if there are smallish voids between the layers of plywood would it be ok to use a thin layer of thinset to fill them in? That is…between the two layers of plywood…would there be a better material to use? trying to avoid sanding the glue as i have a little one and don’t want to kick up all the dust in the air. thanks! Joy

            • Roger

              Hi Joy,

              Do you mean between two separate sheets of plywood on a floor substrate? Or…? And what do you mean by ‘smallish’? You normally don’t want to use thinset between plywood as there is quite a bit of movement in wood and the differential movement between separate sheets may crack it. If you mean filling in the voids left by troweling on glue from a prior installation (which I think is what you’re talking about…maybe :D ) then yes, you can skim over that and install your new sheet of plywood over it. Put the new sheet over it while it’s wet and screw it down tightly. It that’s not what you’re doing you’ll need to be more specific, I haven’t had any beer yet. :D

              • Joy

                Hi Roger, Sorry if I was unclear. Yes, I’m talking about skimming over the glue from a prior installation on the plywood substrate to smooth it out, then putting a 3/8 piece of plywood over it. Then ditra, then tile. If I’m reading you correctly, I think you’re saying I can do that? Thanks again for all your help! Joy

                • Roger

                  Yes, you can do that.

                  • Joy

                    For the layer of thinset between the layers of plywood, do I use the notched side or the flat side of the trowel? If notched, what size? How do I make sure I’m keeping the thinset from making bumps or making it unlevel on the finished floor? Thanks again, Joy

                    • Roger

                      You’re only smoothing it out, so the flat side. That is the answer to both of your questions. :D

                    • Joy

                      Hi Roger, I’m baaaaack. This project is ballooning into a fresh hell, as you smile to yourself and think, “no kidding.” We spent husband’s entire vacation repairing the subfloor amd replacing floor joists. So, we are going to have to lay the tile on the weekends over the next millennium or so. My question is once we lay the ditra, we will need to walk across it for some time to gain access to other rooms. Will it damage the ditra to walk across it bare? If so, should I lay the ditra strips at a time? For instance, just lay one strip and then put tile just on that? Then the nest weekend lay another strip and tile that one. Or should I lay it all at once.

  • Jene Michaud

    I have a comment about finding unmodified thinset to use over DITRA. Where I live the only product in stock (within 50 miles) is the low quality Custom MasterBlend. I can custom order quality thinset but need to wait two weeks to get it. So my advice (for those who live outside of shopping meccas) is to check availability way in advance – you may need to wait for a special order. Just because Lowes carries Keribond doesn’t mean they have it in stock.

  • george

    using kerdi,or ditra, unmodified thinset.. Is there a difference between white or gray.. installing white marble?

    • Roger

      Hi George,

      Yes, if it’s white marble you NEED to use white thinset. Gray may dull the look or actually leach through a bit and create dark stains (looks like stains, anyway) on the surface of your marble.

      • Ron Bredenkamp

        Ok, so use white with marble. Are there some other tips concerning thinset color? What about when used with dark or light grout. (I am using FloridaTile Porcelain “Craftsman” 12 x 12 in Biscuit. Same color for the grout. I already have Laticrete 317 grey.)

        • Roger

          Normally if it’s a white or light stone or soft ceramic you want to use white thinset. If it’s darker, or a porcelain or hard-glazed tile, use gray. Gray will be fine for what you’re using. Color of grout makes no difference.

          • Ron

            Thanks much, got it started.

  • Bill

    Roger,
    I installed my half of my bathroom in ditra. I used laticrete 252 which was recommended by Dal tile rep. I think I lost my mind when I was finished with the first piece because I then decided to pre fill the squares with the 252 vice the kerabond I have sitting in the garage. I was in a frenzy and lost focus. I’ve read all these posts and then go and do this. What is my plan of action now that I have pre-buttered the ditra with 252.
    Bill

    • Roger

      Hey Bill,

      Just leave it. It’s fine. Really. :D If you want to fill the rest with the kerabond go ahead and do that, but the 252 isn’t going to hurt anything at all.

  • joseph

    Hey Roger,

    I actually got my hands on some Bostik Ditra- set from about two hours away. Will use to lay my ditra. Will use whats left on top of kerdi and ditra. My plan was to go with Laticrete once the bags I purchased run out. while in the tile shop I notice ARDEX X 77™ MICROTEC® Reinforced Thin Set. it claims to be the worlds best thin set. have you tried? know anything about it. would you recommend it? figured I’d ask someone more knowledgeable and not rely on marketing.

    • Roger

      Hey Joseph,

      For some reason we don’t get ardex products out this way. I’ve never even seen a bag. I do, however, know a lot of guys that swear by it. It seems to be a very good thinset. World’s best…? Well, I could argue with that (adamantly) :D

  • Wilson

    Is there any thinset and grout to be used for the chemically sensitive? I have a large project of ceramic 18×18 tile over concrete. We had to remove new carpet because of illness. I think tile will be inert once it is cured, but would like to know the least toxic of the thinsets and grouts. I plan on using small joints, and can use Safe coat on the grout if need be, but would rather not. Can you advise?

    • Roger

      Hi Wilson,

      Are you speaking of chemically inert in the installation stage or after it is cured? I’m assuming after cured since you mentioned the tile being so. All basic cementitious grouts and most thinsets, to my knowledge, are chemically inert once cured (28 days). If you mean in the installation stage – all of those products contain alkali, it’s in the cement. You always need to deal with that, but beyond that if you use unmodified that will be the only chemically active ingredient in those products.

  • David

    Roger,

    Great site and tons of information. I wish I’d have read this thread before I attempted to apply kerdi today. So I’ve seen the error in my way on the thinset.

    Now the other issue I’ve read I have is I installed Hardie Backer board. I ran into the thinset I tried dried out (even after I dampened the board very well) so fast I was my first red flag and I pulled the 1 and only sheet I tried off . So I’ve read about people sealing the backer board. Or would this be solved better thinset?

    Thanks in advance for the help.

    • Roger

      Hi David,

      You do not want to seal the backer, it will close up the pores and remove the ability of the thinset to get a good bond. Backerboard is thirsty, it sucks moisture out of everything. You can compensate for that by skim-coating the backer first with the flat side of your trowel and working quickly in smaller areas at a time. Even pros have problems installing full sheets at a time over backer, it’s a pain.

      • David

        Thanks for the feed back. Just trying to get my ducks in a complete row this time before I order the top shelf thin set. Part of my problem was also probably the low quality thin set I first tried.

        Where I got my Kerdi recommended ‘ardex’ brand this morning.

        I’ll keep you posted on my progress.

        • Dave

          Given it meets or exceeds the ANSI 118.1 rating what does a more expensive premium product do for you?

          • Roger

            Hi Dave,

            Several things, workability and open time, as well as strength of the bond to the substrate included. ANSI ratings are minimum requirements, a $5.00 bag of thinset meets some of them, but they aren’t worth a crap.

            • David

              Roger,

              I ended up using Tec ‘338’ Mortar, it’s approved by Schluter. I did wet the backer board pretty well but it worked like a charm. It also comes in White or Gray.