Tile FAQ’s
The list below contains some of the most commonly asked questions I get about tile and installation methods. For each one I have included a (very) short answer. I already have, or will have in the future, a post about every one of these. If that post already exists there will be a link at the end of the answer.
I will continue to add to this page as the questions come up. If you have a question just leave a comment at the bottom and I’ll include it on this page.
Just click on the question to view the answer.
Grout
▶ What type of grout should I use for my tile?
▶ How large should my grout lines be?
▶ Can I fill my cracking grout with more grout?
▶ Are there any “magic” products available to remove stains from your grout and tile?
▶ Does grout help stabilize tile, hold them in place, or make them stick better?
▶ Are tile, stone or grout waterproof?
▶ Can I install my tile without grout lines?
Miscellaneous
▶ Can I install floor tiles on my shower walls?
Sealers
▶ Will sealing your tile and grout make it waterproof?
▶ Should I seal (or re-seal) my tile and grout?
Setting Materials
▶ What should I use to set my tile?
▶ Are mastic and pre-mixed “mortar” acceptable to install tile on a floor or in a shower?
Substrates
▶ Does my floor have to be level before I install tile?
▶ Do I need a waterproof membrane for my shower walls?
▶ Can I simply stick tile to the drywall in my shower or the plywood on my floor?
Transitions
▶ Should I use grout or caulk in the corners of my shower?
If you have any suggestions or questions please feel free to leave a comment.
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When cementing floor tile do you spread cement on a large area of the floor & set the tile in it, or only spread cement on the back of each tile and set it?
Hey Keith,
On the floor.
I looked for an answer but couldn’t find one. I need to remove a 2 x 4 foot section of ceramic tile because of the new patio door. It was installed incorrectly by someone else. They nailed cement board directly to the plywood. It does look like some type of liquid nails may have been used in places. I would like to remove it without breaking the door I’ve waited 20 yrs for. Limited physical resources.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Janet,
I’m not too sure what you’re trying to do there. Do you need to remove the tile, the cement board, or both? Normally the tile is fairly easy to remove with a pry bar and a hammer. Sometimes the cement board will come out the same way. If you take a razor knife and cut a line (score) the cement board along the line you want it removed you can normally pry it up and it will bust right along that line. I’m assuming you need to remove it along the bottom of the door, just score your line along the base of the door and pry it up, it should break right along that line.
Does that help with anything you’re trying to do?
If not perhaps you can upload a photo for me and I can take a look at it. You can do that here: Photo upload.
do you need to do anything other than cement the tile to the wood when tiling the 3″ or 4″vertical side of the toespace? or will opening/closing of drawers & doors cause it to loosen the tile without other measures?
Hey Keith,
I normally either replace the toe kicks with backerboard or install backer right over them. I prefer to have a stable product behind the tile that will not swell when wet. However (!) I have done it directly to the wood and haven’t had problems. Doesn’t mean you won’t have problems, just means I haven’t.
Roger,
Do hardibacker screws need to sit “perfectly” flush? On most of mine, the head rim isn’t flush no matter how hard I drive it. If I countersink each screw then I can make it flush, but should I bother, or will I regret not doing it when I lay the tile. I will be using a 1/2 inch thin set trowel.
Mike
Hey Mike,
If by ‘countersink’ you mean pre-drill the hole then no, don’t bother doing that. If you have the appropriate screw the teeth on the underside of the head should countersink it as you drive it in. However, with a 1/2″ trowel it shouldn’t be a problem to leave them like that.
Hi, Roger, I wrote to you last summer when I was building my shower curb and sent you a couple of photos. OK, don’t laugh but I am done with my tile work but I am now just getting around to having a frameless shower enclosure manufactured for me (what can I say — I am a sometimes-weekend-warrior). To refresh your memory, I built a double-curb shower pan and I had some questions about wrapping the curb with the wire mesh. Anyway, the first guy I had out for the shower enclosure said that he would have to drill into the top of curb to attach the hardware for the clamps for the glass panels. I about died of a heart attack because of all of the work I did following your instructions to make the pan water proof. He acted like I was an idiot and told me that this is how everyone does it. I don’t trust him so I thought it would be good to ask you. He said that the installers will pack the hold with silicone before inserting the screws and they silicone the screw heads as well but I still don’t like it. he thought the installers use 2″ screws which definitely would go through the liner. What do you think? Do you have any advice for this? I would be so mad if the shower leaks after all of my hard work (thanks to you)! Thank you, Roger!
Hi Kim,
It is common. And I haven’t met one contractor yet that likes it. However, if the door is not being hinged off the walls then the anchor has to be mechanically fastened through the curb. It’s just one of those things.
What you can do is ensure that it will be done properly, which includes FILLING the drilled hole with silicone or urethane and using stainless steel screws. Provided that is done then it will puncture the liner on top of the curb, but it will also seal it as the fastener is driven into it. It works fine and to be honest I’ve never personally had a problem nor have I spoken with any tile contractors that have (if that is done properly).
If it makes you feel better you can draft up some sort of waiver putting them on the hook for any damage resulting in a leak originating at the curb penetrations (shower leak origins are actually fairly easy to pinpoint if needed). That way if it ever does cause a problem it’s their ass. If, however, it is installed correctly then you won’t have a problem.
You are correct in being nervous, especially when the old “everybody does it this way” line is whipped out.
But it’ll be fine. And no, I don’t like it either.
Thank you, Roger. You are really awesome, and I really appreciate your site and your feedback! I think I will shop around for another fabricator, but I will make sure whomever I choose follows your advice above! I promise, when I am finally done, I will send you photos!
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