If you are unable to clean your grout discoloration or staining to your satisfaction, the next thing to do is re-grout your tile. Don’t panic! Re-grouting your tile is not as difficult as you may think, although it does require some work.Grout Saw

The first thing you have to do is remove all the old grout. While this can be done with a number of tools, the easiest way would be to head on down to Home Depot or the like, and pick up a grout saw like the one to the right. While you’re there you may as well pick up grout, a grout float, and a sponge or two. If you’re using sanded grout, get some rubber gloves as well.

Provided you own a bucket and a source of water, these will be all the items you need to re-grout your tile. All these items should run about $25. Please don’t decide you won’t need the $7 grout saw. You will cost yourself about 300-400 dollars worth of work and stress trying to do it with something else. The most expensive thing you’ll buy is the grout.

Now comes the most difficult part, you have to “saw” the old grout out of the tile. The small blade on the saw has a carbide edge. By placing the saw into the grout line and slowly sawing back and forth, the old grout will turn to powder and fall out of the grout line. Sound easy enough? It is. It is not a difficult thing to do, it’s just time consuming.

Start slowly! I cannot emphasize this enough. Until you get used to how much pressure to use and how to move the saw in such a way as to not chip the tile edge, you need to get a feel for it. While it’s fairly simple in the straight lines, between the two tile corners, you need to be careful of the corners. It is possible to chip the tile edges and corners when you do this. Mostly this is caused by not keeping the blade straight in the grout line, not keeping it parallel.

It should only take you a few minutes to get used to it. If you have sanded grout, such as in larger format tile or on a floor, there is sometimes an additional blade included that looks more like a saw, use that one. You can use either for any type of grout, just use the one that works better for you.

You will need to remove as much of the old grout as you can. Ideally all of it should be removed but you must remove at least 2/3 of it. This is to ensure that the new grout has enough of the tile edge on which to adhere. Take your time, this is the thing that will take the most time. When you’re all done, just vacuum up the grout dust. Take a break and have yourself an adult beverage a Coke.

Now you need to mix up your new grout. Every brand of grout has different mixing requirements. Follow the directions. No, really, follow the directions. The amount you’ll have to mix up varies according to the amount of tile, size of your grout lines, even the thickness of the tile.  Grout FloatThere is really no set amount so it is difficult for me to be able to tell you exactly how much.

A typical shower surround with 6 X 6 tiles will probably use about 1/2 gallon of grout. But I can’t see your shower from here so it may take more.  Read the box or bag and just make sure you are buying enough for the amount of tile you have.

Mix all that up and while it is slaking (you read the directions, right?) get yourself a bucket of water with a sponge in it and your grout float ready. Now remix your grout.

Time to grout! Scoop some grout out of your bucket and toss it on the tile. Starting at the bottom of the wall if you’re grouting a shower or in a corner somewhere, force the grout into the grout lines. Again, take your time until you get use to it.

Push the grout down into the lines enough to ensure that the space between the tiles is full. After doing a small area take your float at a 45 degree angle to the tile and run it down along the grout line to smooth it out. Your trying to get the basic look that you want when it’s done. You’ll want the grout lines full but not over-full. The grout should be about flush with the top of the tile. This doesn’t have to be perfect by any means, but you’ll want to “squeegee” off as much access grout as you can. This makes cleaning easier.

Keep on going with this until the first section of grout you did is set up a bit. It should be firm but it should not be changing colors yet. (Grout gets lighter as it sets.)(Umm, except white, it gets darker.) When it gets to that point you want to start cleaning it.

Wring out your sponge very well. If you have too much water in your sponge it will lead to several problems. You will weaken the stability of the grout, you can wash too much of the grout out of the lines, you can even wash the color out of the grout – really. So wring out your sponge very well.

Now just wipe all the excess grout off the tiles. You should not need to scrub it, just wipe it like your cleaning a window. After you get the excess grout off the tile, wring out your sponge and wipe it down along the grout line to smooth it out. Now leave it alone. Really, leave it alone – be patient. Go change your bucket of water with some fresh stuff.

After the initial wipe-down dries you will probably see a grout haze over the top of the tile. Don’t panic, it’s completely normal. Now wipe it down again the same way. Don’t worry, it should be much easier this time.  This time, though, you’re more concerned with getting that haze off your tile.

The grout lines should be just fine, you shouldn’t need to do anything else with them. Your main concern is getting the haze to go away. You want to do this now. A day or two later when the grout sets, it will be significantly more difficult to remove. Depending upon the type of tile and the color of your grout, you may need to do this two or three more times. I know, it sucks. Just sing tv show theme songs in your head while you do it, that should keep you amused. I like the Brady Bunch song myself.

The easiest way to get the haze off is to get some microfiber towels. If you use that for your second wipe-down it should take about 90% of that haze off with one wipe-down. That’s worth three bucks for me.

When you’re done stand back and admire your excellent work! Doesn’t that look better? And you even lived through it. Let the grout set for 24 – 48 hours before you take a shower or spill a bucket of water on it. Great job! Go have yourself another adult beverage Coke.

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  • Char

    Hi – I have a walk-in shower with a “river stone” floor. The grout is eroding in places, especially around the drain. What’s the best way to address this?

    • Roger

      Hi Char,

      If it is eroding, rather than cracking, then the only fix is to regrout it.

  • Mary

    Roger, have you worked with Mapei’s “grout refresh” product? If so, can you give us the benefit of your experience?

    Thank you
    Mary

    • Roger

      I have not used that particular product, but guys I’ve talked to who have seem to like it.

  • Norma

    Hi Roger, this is Norma I want to grout my fire place that I will never light; I purchased from Home Depot some stone tile it looks pretty, I had it placed on the outside of the fireplace floor in the front, but want to take in side further; had it done on the outside I plan on grouting myself but never grouted before what steps do I take to get started; I have the grout color, the stone look tile : what epuipment do I need?

    • Roger

      Hi Norma,

      Just a grout float and a sponge. If you go to youtube.com and enter ‘how to grout tile’ you’ll find a LOT of videos that will actually show you the process.

  • Lori

    Hi Roger,

    Do you know anything about Vitrolite or structural pigmented glass tile? Our new house, built 1950, has two bathrooms and they are both tiled from floor to the ceiling inclding on the ceilings with this large and beautiful tile. The spaces between the tiles are TINY. I have been using a utility knife to knock out what I am presuming is the old broken, disclosed, and missing grout.

    Could you please advise me of the best product and method to “regrout” our spaces? Pictures available if needed or wanted.

    Thank you,

    Lori

    • Roger

      Hi Lori,

      Yes, I am familiar with it. Any regular unsanded grout will work just fine for it.

  • Karen

    Just had new porcelain tile grouted on bathroom floor. Looks overall great except I noticed that on a couple of tiles the grout looks low (and the corner edge of the tile looks noticeably not flush or barely flush with the tile). It has just been sealed so question: can I have my tile guy remove grout from just a few tiles and regrout them so the grout looks more flush with the tile corners? Thanks very much!

    • Roger

      Hi Karen,

      Yes you can.

  • Bill

    Hello Roger. I am preparing to re-grout our master bath tile floor and shower stall. I think I have a pretty good handle as to what needs to be done to remove the old grout, vacuum, put in the new grout etc. my question, after waiting at least 3 days, I would like to seal/apply a water sealer/repellent. Mainly along all the tile joints. I asked a gentleman in Lowe’s Tile section about this and also what type of sealer to use. He obviously wasn’t well versed to answer my question. I noticed a flash light size container with a brush applicator. Would this be ok or should I use quart container and sponge applicator ?

    • Roger

      Hi Bill,

      Either will work just fine.

  • Susan

    Hi Roger,

    I have had a week-long project trying to clean white grout around white tile in our shower. We have very hard water and even with a whole house filter, sometimes the reddish water causes a problem with staining. It is all nice and white right now but…I noticed some areas of grout are blackish. When looked at closely, it appears to be the actual edge of the tile that is blackish, and some of the grout is missing in tiny areas. I can put my fingernail into the little holes. I have used mold killer (3 different kinds, rinsed very well after each) and also straight bleach so I do not think it is mold along the tile edges. Can I chip out the grout in these problem areas and re-grout or do I have to take ALL the grout out of the entire shower? The grout lines are very tiny and I am not sure the grout saw will work and it might damage the tiles trying to get the grout out. Thanks for your help!

    • Roger

      Hi Susan,

      Yes, you can just remove those areas. It sounds as if mold may be growing from behind the tile. Let me know if the black is all the way down in the grout line to the back of the tile once you remove it.

  • Kathy

    Hi Roger,
    We purchased a new home last year and had porcelain tile put in the master bathroom. The tile was originally laid square and we had requested that it be placed on the diagonal on the floor. The tile was removed and the new tile laid according to our request. The problem now is that the tile has high and low spots and you can really feel the unevenness when you walk barefoot across the floor. It also looks as though too much grout was removed when finished. Would having someone re-grout the floor make it feel more even? Thanks.

  • Jeff

    Hi Roger,

    I’m struggling to remove grout from a shower with 4x4in subway tile. The shower is 19 years old and the grout is pitting making it very difficult to keep clean. Its non sanded grout.

    My issue is that the builder didn’t use tile spacers and relied on the tile nubs. As a result, the grout lines are 1/16 at max. Some spaces are so small the grout saw won’t fit. I’ve been using a utility knife…

    Any tips on a more efficient way to approach this?

    Also I was planning to only remove the grout from the bad pitted seams, and not all grout. Is this a bad idea and should i just tough out the entire shower?

    The shower is roughly 4’x3’x7′.

    Thanks
    Jeff

    • Roger

      Hi Jeff,

      You’re actually doing it the easiest way it can be done. Yes, it sucks. Unfortunately it is actually easier to remove and rebuild the shower than it is to regrout that particular tile.

  • steve

    I have a shower stall that has travertine tiles on the walls and floor. Some sections of grout on the floor are starting to crack and crumble. Most of the grout seems perfectly fine. Should I remove ALL the grout from the floor and redo it, or can I just regrout the trouble spots?

    • Roger

      Hi Steve,

      It depends on why it’s cracking. I would probably just regrout the problem areas, if it happens again further investigation into the cause would be required.

  • Natalie

    Hi regrouted two days ago. I sealed the growth this morning and the grout is still not solid. Where do you think I went wrong for it to be powder!?!

    • Roger

      Hi Natalie,

      I have no idea. I need a lot more information to even venture a guess. Type and brand of grout, how you mixed it, temperature of the room, and the water (room temp, hot, cold?), etc. There are many things that can cause grout problems, the most common are incorrect mixing ratios and using too much water when cleaning. If it’s polyblend grout that’s a whole other bag of worms. :D

  • Edwin

    Hi,
    I’m planning to regroup my bathroom floor. Would I need to take up the toilet to accomplish this? Or should I just remove grout as far as I can?

    • Roger

      Hi Edwin,

      No real reason to, just get as much as you can out.

  • Matt

    Roger, I regrouted the tile on the bathroom floor at the lake house this weekend, but I’ve got craking/flaking in areas around the tub, toilet, and heater vent (all closedly spaced; bathroom is small). I was trying to fix up this area, primarily, because the grout here has fallen out in full, large chunks over time leaving a convenient pathway for water to get through to the floor. The rest of the floor (further from the offending area) still had very solid grout. I sawed out all the grout and regrouted using old grout that I found in the basement (mom wanted the correct color, and some of the original grout was still left over. It is sanded stuff, and not premixed, and probably ten years old). I roughly followed the manufacturer’s mixing ratio (I didn’t have a scale, so sort of hard to do exactly) and it looked good, handled properly, was fairly consistent, etc, and so I grouted with it, and that looked good too until it started to crack and flakes (very sandy) in the area described after about 24 hours. There are tiles in this area that were loose when I took out the old grout, two are cracked, and I think I can see the floor give slightly when a human walks on the tiles in that area. The other area (away from tub/toilet) looks ok after 48 hours.

    This is the lake house, and so it doesn’t need to be perfect (if it could be made better than before, I would be happy). I’ve read up online, and I get that this is probably a total ‘re-build the floor’ situation due to the movement and maybe also water damage, but that is not likely to happen. Is there any way to bring this grout job to the point of being functional and able to withstand a few rowdy weekends every summer? I haven’t sealed it yet–is there any type of sealant that is adhesive/epoxy-like that might add strength and keep the grout down? Any other suggestions?

    Many thanks

    Matt

    • Roger

      Hi Matt,

      There is no sealant, or any other product, that will strengthen your grout. The cracking is indicative of movement in the tile, which you stated you have. The only way to prevent cracking in the grout (and eventually the tile) is to find out why the tiles are moving or loose. It could be an improper bond to the substrate, an improper substrate, inadequate framing, etc. There could be several reasons, the only way to determine that would be to pull up at least one or two of the loose tile. Do that and let me know what you see both on the floor and the back of the tile and I can help you decide how to move forward from there.

      • Matt

        I did take a look under one of the tiles briefly when I was at the house this past weekend (not there anymore but planning to go back Friday to see what the grout looks like) and I’m not really sure what I’m looking for, but the floor didn’t appear noticeably moist, and the back of the tile just sort of looked like the adhesive had degraded. Again, not really sure what I am looking for!

        Thanks

        • Roger

          If you can take a picture of both the back of the tile and the floor beneath it and email it to me at Roger@FloorElf.com I may be able to tell you what’s going on.

  • jk

    mine some of it came up easy with razor, and some area’s I had to scrape for minutes and minutes with tip of the blade! or bleach it out first! wet/dry.

  • don

    Roger what is best, easiest way to remove silicon from shower surround? I tried using a utility knife but it’s not great. Any better way? The corners turned black from mold.

    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Don,

      If it’s actually silicone you can get a spray in the paint department of any big box or hardware store that will ‘melt’ the silicone so you can just wipe it away.

  • Louis

    hi Elf,

    I have a tiled tub enclosure that wasn’t done right (no, I didn’t do it). I sawed out some of the old grout in preparation for regrouting, and some tiles came loose. What’s the best way to clean up the back of the tiles so I can reset them? Yes, the whole shebang needs to be ripped out and redone, but that’s a project for another day. I’m just trying to get it back to useable for now.

    • Roger

      Hi Louis,

      An orbital sander with 60 grit paper.

  • chad

    Have you used stainmaster stainproof grout by tile doctor? Please advise if this is a good product. Thanks.

    • Roger

      Hi Chad,

      I have not, so I have no idea. Never spoke with anyone who has used it either. Sorry.

  • Julie B

    The directions on my package of grout say that it needs to cure for 48 hours. Do I need to wait to seal the tile 48 hours after we finished grouting, or after I applied grout haze remover?

    Thanks for all your help! Our kitchen is looking great!

    • Roger

      Hi Julie,

      I would wait the 48 hours.

  • hans

    I have a crack in the grout on the floor. There is a slight ramp from the bathroom main floor up to the entrance to the walk-in shower and the crack is at the top of the ramp (along the ‘fold’). The ramp has a total rise of maybe 2″ over 3′ or so, to allow for the shower pan to be built up (so I am told). You talk about a “change of plane”. This is a pretty small angle but it did crack. So, do you recommend a grout fix, silicone fix, or other?

    • Roger

      Hi Hans,

      The cracking is indicative of movement on one side or the other of the ramp. It doesn’t mean anything is necessarily wrong, just that the grout at the top of a point can’t compensate for it. If that’s the only problem area scraping the grout out of that grout line and replacing it with silicone is likely your best bet. It can handle the movement there.

  • Susan

    We have several areas of grout starting to come up in our ceramic floor tile. The house is open concept with tile throughout. Its a timber frame home and we can see that the wood has naturally shrunk, and wonder if this has caused shifting/ chipping or whether they didn’t seal the grout when installed 6 yr ago. I can’t imagine taking out ALL the grout and starting over. Any way to repair just the chipping areas? Thanks.

    • Roger

      Hi Susan,

      Grout cracking is caused by movement in the substrate, it has absolutely nothing to do with sealing (or lack of). You can just fill the cracked areas, but unless you determine and fix the actual cause you’ll end up with the same problem.

  • Lisa Bradley

    My kitchen floor tile is wobbly and grout is gone. Will regrouping fix the wobble or do I need to take the tiles up and remast it as well?

    • Roger

      Hi Lisa,

      If the tiles are moving then the problem is with the bonding of the tile, it has nothing to do with the grout. Regrouting it will not fix it.

  • jay

    after removing old grout, notice water /moist continue to leak out, from around the /floor edges! previously there has been some cracks on some tiles, so gradually mist has build up. hard to put grouts on.

    • Roger

      Hi Jay,

      I have no idea what you’re attempting to regrout, where it is or what the initial problem was. I’m assuming it is at the base of a tub or shower wall, in which case it’s just water that’s been built up behind the tile without proper weep abilities. If that’s the case then it will completely drain and dry out in about a week, at which time you can regrout it.

  • tina

    We recently bought a renovated house. The shower had new marble tile and grey grout. The grout is cracking and chunks are falling out. It is mostly around the seams where 2 walls meet and where the floor meets the wall. My understanding is that you should use caulk in these areas. Would it make sense to pull the grout from these areas and caulk them? How do we know if it is a deeper issue?

    • Roger

      Hi Tina,

      It likely is not a deeper issue if those changes of plane are grouted. Those areas WILL move – period. They need to be siliconed. The silicone will compensate for that movement, grout will not. That is why it is cracking.

      • Brandon

        Hi Roger,
        Im about to attempt to re-grout my shower (sweating bullets) and I have noticed that none of the helpful videos and articles on the internet seem to address where the tiles of the shower wall meet with the tiles of the floor. I assumed that I would replace the peeling rubbery mess (silicon?) with new grout too. Is that correct? Do I by more silicon and remove the old and replace it with new? I would appreciate the advice.

        • Roger

          Hey Brandon,

          The old stuff needs to be removed and replaced with new silicone. Grout will crack if it is placed at a change of plane like that.

  • Michael

    Roger I have a small shower floor with 2″ floor tiles the 1/8th white grout has turned black in various areas and the harder I try to sand the spots away the darker they get. can I remove small areas of grout and replace or is there a product I can use to remove the spots? I was told that the thin set may have bled through the grout during the grouting installation.

    • Roger

      Hi Michael,

      If you used gray thinset then that is likely what is happening. You need to remove the grout and thinset to nearly the entire depth of the tile to get it so it won’t show through with white grout. You can do it only in certain areas if you like, but it would be best to do the entire thing. Once the white grout gets wet it will transfer more of that gray color through it. You may see dark spots when it’s wet in areas that don’t show when it’s dry.

  • Ron

    Roger
    My wife and I are getting ready to re-grout our dinning room and kitchen. Our tile is 20 X 20 inches and is grouted with a sand grout that has become stained. The tile is travertine with small pits through out. The area is 372 square feet. our question is how will we keep the grout from getting in all the little pits and can we do the project in stages due to the size or should we do it all at one time?
    Thank you
    Ron and Debbie

    • Roger

      Hi Ron,

      The only guaranteed way to keep grout out of all those little pits is to buy travertine without all the little pits in it. :D Those pits are meant to be filled, not to be left open. If you leave them open all sorts of nasty stuff can get in there and begin to grow – you don’t want that. I’m assuming that the pits you are speaking of are fairly good sized and relatively deep, not the little micropits that are only about 1/32″ deep. If they are the smaller ones then just washing them out with the sponge as you grout will take care of it. Yes, you can do the project in stages.