I constantly reiterate the need for a tile installation to be flat. Not necessarily level, but always flat. This is the mark of a true professional and the thing that turns an ‘okay’ installation into a spectacular installation. (Did I just type ‘spectacular? Jesus…) Anyway, the method I use on floor tile to get it flat is fairly simple and ensures that each tile is the exact same height as the tiles surrounding it.
Before I show you that you need to understand, as always, that the substrate preparation is the most important aspect of this. If your tile substrate looks like a skate park you’re never going to get a flat tile installation over the top of it. Your substrate needs to be as flat as you can possibly get it. Take time with your preparation – it makes the rest of the installation run smoothly and gives you a solid foundation.
Start by getting a few tiles set and make sure they are all flat with your straight-edge, just place the straight-edge on top of the set tiles and ensure that there are no open spaces beneath it and that every tile is the same height. You can push down on tiles that may be a bit high or take a tile up and place a little more thinset beneath it to raise it some. Once you have that correct the rest is cake, baby! (You ever seen a cake baby? They’re messy…)
All these photos are of a travertine tile bathroom floor. I used travertine photos because it happens to be one of the least dense stones and usually have quite a few pits and open spaces in the stone itself. If the tile is ‘filled’ travertine, as this is, it is normally only filled from the front so that, once installed, it has no open areas or pits on the face of the tile. You can, however, see these open areas in the back of the tile. I’m gonna show you how to fix this, too. You get a two for one with this post.
Photo 1
Once you have the initial couple of tiles set, as in photo 1, just comb your thinset onto your substrate in a uniform direction. (Make all the little lines from the trowel go the same way) This eliminates the possibility of trapping air beneath your tile and leaving spots that are not fully adhered (hollow spots). If you make the pretty little swirlies they may look cool, but they can also trap air beneath your tile. On a side note: my spell-check just told me that ‘swirlies’ isn’t a word – so I’m makin’ it one.
In photo 2 you can see the back of the travertine tile. See how it has all those pits and crevices and empty spots? You’ll want to fill those up with thinset to give the tile a good, solid fill and, essentially, make it more dense and durable. Do this by using the flat side of your trowel (Photo 3) and scraping thinset along the back of the tile in every direction. This ensures it is completely full and there are no open areas left. (Photo 4)
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
-This is what is called ‘backbuttering’ your tile. You’ll more than likely run into that term a lot when researching tile – that’s all it is. For an installation where you have an inconsistent tile or a questionable substrate you can always do this, then flip your trowel around and comb thinset on the tile as well (make pretty little lines – not swirlies!)
Now that you have a good solid piece of shiny rock to put down on your floor, flip it over and put it there. Make sure you flip it over – shiny side up. 
When you place it in the thinset on the floor place it directly against the two tiles adjacent to it (Photo 5) so that two sides of the tile are actually touching the two tiles next to it. As you do this you can push the tile down to just the right height to be flush with the tiles next to it.
Photo 5
This will ensure that the tile you just put down is the same height as the surrounding tiles. You can take your straight-edge again and use it to push the tile down and get it to the same height. If your tile goes down too far – PULL IT UP! and put a little bit more thinset beneath it.
I yelled ‘PULL IT UP’ because for some reason people think that once the tile is down – that’s it. It can’t be moved. That’s not it. Until the thinset cures – tomorrow! – that tile can be moved, pulled up, adjusted, smashed, replaced, etc. Do not be afraid to pull it back up and put more thinset beneath it if it sets too low.
Photo 6
After you get the tile at the proper height, and this needs to be along both edges that are touching, then you can go ahead and pull it away from the two tiles to create your grout line and make sure you are, indeed, at the proper height. (Photo 6)
Then just insert your spacers and make sure it is in the correct place. (Photo 7) Pulling it back also ensures that there is full coverage between the thinset and the back of your tile. Remember those little ridges that the trowel created? The ones that were not fully squished down as you were adjusting your tile will be pulled slightly as you create your grout line and this will create full coverage and support beneath your tile.
Photo 7
Photo 8
-You can take your straight-edge and lay it across the tile to ensure that they are all perfectly flat. (Photo 8 ) If one sets a little bit high you can simply wiggle the straight-edge back and forth until it is flush. If it sets a little too low – PULL IT UP! (damnit) and do it again.
It may seem like a tedious process – it is. But when done correctly you end up with a totally flat, professional looking tile installation which will last for years.
See: 
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Hello Roger
I am on my second attempt of doing tiles on the shower floor. 1st I tried making a triangle pattern using 12×24 tiles. There was way too much lipping. Contractor friend told me to cut the tiles to 2×2 and use those. I cut them and now I am going crazy with 500 2×2 tiles that need to be flat and spaced equally. Not level since the floor is sloped but flat. Any tricks to make these smaller tiles flat and spaced equally? I haven’t started because it seems like there might be a trick to getting the small ones all lined up and flat.
thanks much for your website, books, and sense of humor!
Hi Thomas,
I’ve done it. Yes, it sucks.
Spacers and time will get them lined up correctly. Use your grout float or a 2×4 and a rubber mallet to get them flush with one another.
Hi Roger,
In terms of getting the tiles without lippage, do you see the benefit of using tile leveling system like Lash, Raimondi or Tornado with 12 x 24 tiles?
It does add a bit of additional expense.
Ed
Can’t figure out how to edit a message so:
In addition, if you’ve used and self leveling systems can you comment on how well they work and any experience you’ve had?
thanks,
I’ve used the lash, tls and mlt systems. They all work similarly. The lash is my least favorite as they have the thickest foot on them which requires much more thinset beneath your tile. The tls works very well, as does the mlt. The mlt system allows you to remove the cap if needed without wasting a strap, which comes in handy.
Hi Ed,
Yes, they work well. You still need to get the substrate and tile flat and flush, but the leveling systems will both fine-tune it to get them completely flat and hole them in place while the thinset cures. They work really well with large format tile like that.
Is it easy enough to say tile 1/2 the floor and then continue the next day when using the leveling system? My concern only is that the tiles will be leveled up to end of day 1 but the transition to the tiles layed on the second day may not get the benefit of the leveling. For instance if the day 1 tile is a bit high it will not be able to be lowered using the leveling system the next day as the thinset will already be hardened.
It works fine. Just be sure to insert your straps under all the edges at the end of the day. If you do that you’ll be able to level them just fine.
Roger
Does the TLC (Tornado) system have any issues with the spacer twisting when the top ring is tighten down. I saw 1 bad review relating to this.
Don’t know, never used it. I have heard the same complaint about it though. I think you can grab the top of the strap to prevent that, but it may still move your tile the smallest amount, which would drive me absolutely friggin’ insane.
Hi Roger,
Getting ready to start laying Travertine in my kitchen/dining area (700sq. ft.) About 7 years ago, I removed the oringinal vinyl tiles. and installed ceramic. At the time, not knowing what I was doing and being cheap. There was a layer of sticky “glue” leftover after removing the vinyl. Do I need to worry about the sticky glue before installing the Travertine. If I do need to worry about it what is your advice?
Great site!!!!
Hi Norm,
It should either be removed or covered either with a layer of plywood and your membrane or cement backerboard. You didn’t mention your substrate – you aren’t installing those travertine tiles over plywood are you?
Sorry forgot…its on concete.
The ceramic that is on there now is holding up real well.
Oh.
You can skim coat over that old glue that you can’t get off with thinset and let it cure, then install your tile.
Hi Roger,
In your experiance, are kitchen cabinets installed on floor tiles, or directly on slab? I’m getting mixed info on that.
Hi Norm,
Sorry for the delay, been out of town at the new Schluter facility all week.
Both. It just depends on the builder’s timeline and which order they scheduled it. I prefer the cabinets on the tile, but either way works equally as well. The only downside to either is the pain of removing it should you choose to change it in the future. But even that is done on a regular basis.
Hey Devil Dog,
I have 12 by 24″ tile. I was told by the tile shop that these large formats will have lippage if I don’t shift them by 1/3rd the length. The mrs does not want them shifted or in a running bond. Do you use the same procedure mentioned on installing flat tile on this large of a tile? Thanks again.
Joseph
Hey Joseph,
What they mean is it is easier to compensate for the cupping of the tile by shifting a running bond pattern by 1/3 rather than 1/2 (brick pattern). If you aren’t offsetting them at all then lippage won’t be a problem in regards to the cupping of the tile – they are all equally cupped.
Roger, CANT FIND WHERE YOU RESPONDED TO ME SO IM ASKING AGAIN. HOW LON DOES IT TAKE FOR THE GROUT TO SET BEFORE i CAN PUT SEALER ON IT? DID OT SAY ON THE GROUT BAG. THANKS, JAN
It’s right here. Yelling or typing in all caps will not get my attention more quickly. I answer 40-50 questions a day, imagine how much help I would be if I had to answer every one of them twice? When I answer your question you receive an email with both my answer and a link to it, if you did not receive that try your spam folder.
I am installing 8×8 travertine tile in a 4′ x 5′ bathroom floor. How do I prepare a subfloor for it and to level it? Since the room is so small where do I start laying the tile?
Hi Jan,
There are a LOT of different answers I can give you for that question. You’ll need to nail it down a bit for me.
You need to first choose an underlayment, ditra is the easiest to work with, also the most expensive. The standard is cement backerboard with thinset beneath it, then screwed down. Your tile goes right on top of that. I don’t understand whether you mean level your tile, level your underlayment, or level your subfloor. Three different options, about 25 different methods.
Sorry I wasn’t clear. I mean the existing subfloor under the linoleum that is there now. It dips down at one corner. I will be removing the existing linoleum and laying travertine tile. Also because the bathroom is so small do I need to find the center of the room to start laying or what is the best place to start?
What are you laying the tile on – what are you bonding it to. Do you have (or will you have) an underlayment? To level that out you want to level it using the mortar that goes under your chosen underlayment. No need to find the center. Sometimes it looks best centered, sometimes it doesn’t. I normally begin with a full tile against the tub or shower base, that’s where most people see first. As long as doing that doesn’t leave any small slivers anywhere that’s usually the best. (and a full tile at the threshold)
So are you saying that I should use more mortar under my underlayment where the floor dips to level it? Also would the tiles look better installed diagnally than straight since the room is so small?
Yes, more mortar to level the low spot.
In smaller rooms a diagonal layout sometimes does look better.
So I’ve chosen cement backerboard for my underlayment. Is there a specific way I have to install it? I know I need to use thin set under it and screw it down but since it’s only a 4×5 room it’s basically only going to take 2 pieces. Is this ok?
Hi Jan,
Yes, that’s fine. Just make sure the seam between the two is not directly above a seam in the subfloor. Other than that put it in however you want, it’ll be fine.
Ok, do I do anything to the seam? How often do I put the screws? Promise this is the last of my questions.
The screws go into the main board every 8-12 inches in each direction, every 6-8 along the seam. You need to tape and mud the seams. If you read through this it will answer most of your questions: Installing cement backerboard for floor tile
Dear Tiling God:
Could you possibly speak to the masses about using self leveling cement ?
Want to install tile on a cement floor, but the floor has a crown area that is
approximately 1/8 to 1/4 high in a 14″ square. This raised area is where the home builder plumbed for a future shower but the home owner doesnt want to put the shower in and wants to tile the floor. This may not appeal to everyone, but neither does installing tile !!! thanks for your usual humorous response to dumb questions like mine….your the bomb.
Hi Chuck,
Whaddya wanna speak about? SLC is the easiest product to level a non-flat floor such as yours. Most people don’t want to do it because they’ve read horror stories about what happened when people didn’t follow the instructions for the product. It won’t come out flat.
As long as the correct amount is used, the primer is correctly installed and you buy enough product it works very, very well. It’s the easiest way to flatten a floor for tile.
Hello Roger,
I used Mapei Ultraplan Easy SLC and found it would not settle flat.
I tried using more water, no difference unless I got silly and put a lot of water which I did not do as not to weaken the strength.
I then called Mapei and they told to get an installation kit, a bucket,
adjustable rake and spiked shoes. Did it by the numbers, cleaned the floor , Mapei bonding agent. What did I miss?
Thanks,
Bob
Hey Robert,
Mapei (and most slc’s, really) should be raked or agitated to allow it to settle flat. Most will for the most part without it, but Mapei is one of the thicker ones. Your order of installation sounds correct, it’s just a pain in the ass product. Custom’s and Laticrete’s are much easier to work with.
ROGER: Can the tile be laid directly onto the SLC or is it better to do Ditra or another underlayment?
Thanks
Hey Chuck,
You can install directly to the slc.
Hi Roger, great website. Our bathroom is 9′ x 10′. We will soon be tiling the floor. The house is 16 years old. There is a crack in the floor that runs from the exterior wall plate (where it was shot/nailed to the concrete) through the middle of the floor to the wall 9′ across the room. The crack starts at about 1/32″ wide at the nail and is about 1/16″ at the other end. The concrete is the same height on both sides of the crack. Do we need to use Ditra before tiling. Thanks for your time.
Hi Laurie,
You need to use some sort of crack isolation membrane. Ditra will serve that purpose and is the one I prefer.
I just purchased your latest tool tips book and so wish I had it a couple months ago as I was putting up glass mosaic tile for my tub surround! Question… for these mosaics on the mesh… how do you keep them from collapsing on themselves from their own weight, causing wavy uneven grout spacing? I thought I had them all lined up and go back only to find sagging…. does putting them on kerdi help with that also?
Am enjoying your book. Would recommend it to everyone.
Hi Cena,
Normally if you pound the mosaics in really well with your grout float they will normally stay put. You can also begin at the top and tape them as you move down the wall.
Thanks! I found the answers in your book as I read further! I’ve learned so much from your web site and the book. Wish I’d found it sooner. I’m now ready to waterproof our walk-in shower (4 x 9) that has two shower heads in opposing corners that are angled (finished angle is 12″ wide). We have installed the thin-set mortar bed, and using the Noble linear drain and the Noble waterproofing membrane. I’ve been searching all morning to try to find how to do the floor membrane across those angled corners. We will use the “lap corner” with sealant where there is a square corner, but still concerned about the angle. I saw one picture that showed the uncut corner kind of lapped up the angled wall. Not sure I liked that much sheet membrane. Any suggestions?
Hey Cena,
Cut the membrane straight up the corners from the floor to the edge of the membrane, then as you lay then against the wall they should overlap. You need to take a spare piece of the membrane four inches wide and center it onto that overlap to achieve a 2″ overlap on each side and seal it up.
Oh Dear Tiling God:
I have a cement floor and was wondering if using Ditra would be beneficial or do I just use the ditraset thinset and install the tile ? ( small bathroom 5×8 )
Thanks for all your help, you have made tiling a much less boring, difficult,
stress filled, alcohol consuming job !!!!! of course the last one isnt all bad
Hey Chuck,
While ditra would absolutely be beneficial it’s not really necessary. If you do decide to install right to the concrete you should use a modified thinset, not the ditraset, which is unmodified.
you should use a modified thinset, not the ditraset, which is unmodified.
Damn, I know that, just screwed up my tiling language !!
Thanks Roger, appreciate your helpful hints, could never have done the last tiling job ( which was the first job and it came out premo )
without your help. You provide a great service and should run for President.
Thanks to you and your site I have almost completed the tile job in my upstairs bathroom. My wife suggested we extend it out on to the stair landing which is approx. 65×65 inches. When I checked it for level I found that it was great coming out from the bathroom but the right side of the landing dipped down about ¼”. I want to level the landing and keep it consistent with the tile height from the bathroom. I have considered using self leveling underlayment but the directions mention using metal lathe. The area is very small, approx 24×50 inches. Can I or should I use the SLU without the lathe so I can feather out the long edge to keep the floor level all the way across? The landing is ¾” plywood; once I figure out how to make it level the plan is to thin set ¼” hardibacker to it and then apply ditra. This should bring it all level with the bathroom. What do you think?
Hey Michael,
Yes, you can use slc without the lath for areas that small. That will work just fine.
HI Roger:
For starters, I have a double wide home that I want to tile the small entryway. I believe it has 5/8″ chipboard for the floor. There is a few depressions from either traffic and or where the furnace and water heater used to be. I was planning on using the Snapstone floating porcelain tile system from Menards. What would you recommend for the low areas? With this system it requires NO underlayment. Also, this area connects to a bathroom that I plan on removing the tub and tileing in a new shower. Under the shower what do you recommend for that same 5/8″ crap. Shower size is roughly 2 1/2′ x 4 1/2 ‘ Thanks.
Hi Porky,
I don’t know that the chipboard would support the snapstone or not, I really don’t know what the flexibility limitations are on it. I would, at minimum, float it so it’s a flat entryway. You can use a product like ardex float patch.
Under the shower I would at least add 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood before the mud deck.
For weeks, I’ve been searching the web trying to find a description of how to lay tiles. I still had no clue and after reading yours I finally have the confidence to try it and I’ve printed out your description and will pin it up on the wall in the room I’m working on. Not once did i read that you CAN move a tile after laying it and this was a great relief. Just wanted to thank you for an AMAZING set of instructions. My search is over.. Finally!
Thanks once again. I really appreciate it.
Can you expand on your post with reference to smaller tiles. I’m flooring a small bathroom (5′ x 8′) and using 3″ tiles. They come on a mesh sheet of 4×4. Do I need to be overly concerned about flatness?
Hey Bent,
You don’t need to be too concerned about it. The best way to get smaller tiles flat is to ensure your substrate is absolutely flat. Any inconsistencies will not show nearly as much with smaller tiles.
Hi Roger,
I put in this glazed porcelain tile ( http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/metallic-brown-porcelain-tile-12in-x-24in.html) and missed a few spots of thinset when cleaning. I left town and a week later, I am now having a horrible time trying to remove the thinset spots (mostly fingerprint size
that are stuck in the divits Haze remover hasn’t worked, nanoscrub did not work. Suspecting vinegar wont do anything either. Is sulfamic acid my only option, and do you think it will damage a glazed porcelain tile? And will it damage grout? Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Hi Michelle,
Is it just thinset stuck to the top? If so you can use a drywall sanding sponge to get it off then use a microfiber towel to buff it off. If it actually damaged the glaze of the tile you’ll need to replace the tile.
Thanks for all your postings, very helpful.
I just finished putting hardie backerboard over plywood to get ready for bathroom tile. My wife has purchased 12″ x 24″ porcelain tiles and a premix thin set called SimpleSet Thin Set Mortar manufactured by Custom Building Products in California. Is it OK to use this under the 12 x 24 tiles. If so, what size notched trowel should I use and should I backbutter? Thanks.
Hi Bob,
No, it is not suitable for that tile. The technical reason, and the one which is stated by the literature, is that it is only approved for use for tiles up to 18″ in size – your tiles exceed that.
The reality of it is this: the fact that it is ‘approved’ for that is irrelevant – the manufacturer can make any claims they want. It is not referenced as to whom it is ‘approved’ by, it may be jimmy down in the Custom building product’s coffee shop. Seriously. The bigger problem, however, is that the product you have is not a thinset mortar – it is mastic with sand in it.
Think about it like this: That product is in a bucket with a lid on it. It will remain pliable, uncured and useable as long as the lid remains on the bucket. It will not cure in the bucket. If you that down on the floor and place a 1 foot by 2 foot porcelain tile over it that would be the same as placing the lid back on the bucket. It will never cure.
The only thing this product is acceptable for, in my opinion, is installing 4×4 or smaller ceramic wall tile on a non-wet area wall. You need to get a bag of powdered thinset which is mixed with water for your installation. Versabond is a very good one, and will work well for your project.
You didn’t mention it but I hope you put thinset beneath the backerboard before you installed it over the plywood. You did that, right?
Yes Sir! and Thanks!
Yes the thinset stayed in the ditra on 2 of 3 tiles we pulled.
We just pulled up some tiles because we had cracks in grout – the tile came off the thinset cleanly for the most part – maybe 25 percent tops of the each tile had thinset sticking to it. Is that indicative of a bad tile job?
Hey Edward,
It is indicative of incomplete installation. The tiles were not backbuttered and the thinset might not have been covered by the tile soon enough after being applied to the floor. There should be even coverage on both the tile and substrate.
my bathroom tile was laid and was flat one week later the painter came in on floor and now some tiles are up how can this be corrected
Hi Maureen,
Have your tile contractor come back and install them correctly.
There is apparently something done incorrectly with either the substrate or the installation of the tile itself, a painter on top of it is not going to cause it to do that if it’s installed correctly.
It may be the bond of the tile, it may be the substrate. I have no way of telling without knowing what you have beneath the tile and how it was installed.
I am tiling my garage floor with a tool mosaic. Ive done a lot of tiling, stone work etc, but am having grrreat trouble with the indirect method of laying mosaics within the porcelain tiles. My mosaics are all 12×12″ of all kinds of woodworking tools. The mosaics consist of marble, onyx, granite, travertine, ceramic tile, all different thicknesses. I seem to lose it when flipped over and set into the thinset. It is either to much, or not enough in some places!!
Any tips would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Hey Shanon,
Lay the mosaics face down on a flat bench or something then take a piece of membrane of some sort, ditra works well or even kerdi if you don’t have the height for the ditra. Spread thinset on the back of the mosaics so you have an even layer over the back of them then place the membrane over it and flatten it out. Let that cure for a day or two then you can flip the mosaic over (carefully) and install them wherever you need them. The differing thickness of thinset needed to have the mosaic flat will be between the membrane and mosaic. It will be flat on both the top and bottom and you can install it wherever you need to.
I was excited about your idea of putting the membrane on the back as of mosaics as I’ had fought with the glass and stone tile I used around the tub. Was planning to use it in my shower as a decorative accent… but what do you do with the uneven ends that need to interlock with the other tile when putting this backing on them? That part has me puzzled, so I haven’t taken it on yet….
Scissors.
Seriously, bond the mosaics to the sheet from one end to the other, let it cure, then you need to cut the membrane out of one end of the mosaics (they will overlap on the end you don’t cut). Just install from the cut end to the full end, then the next piece with the cut membrane overlaps the last.
Hi Roger – We’re about ready to lay some ceramic tile on the kitchen floor. We’ve done all the prep work: applied cement backerboard (over a skim coat of thinset mortar and attached with appropriate screws), and have taped and mortared all the seams. Concern: the ridges of mortar are a bit too high for the tiles to sit flat. What do you recommend we do to level them?
Hi Linda,
Depends on how high. You’re going to raise the tile about 1/8″ or so with the thinset beneath it, so you likely don’t need to sand it down. If you do you can simply sand it down with sandpaper.
what size of a troul should i use on putting 16 x 24 travertine on my floors
Hi Mike,
It depends on how flat your floor is. If it’s fairly flat then a 5/16″ or 3/8″ trowel will work fine.
thanks for the great advice in easy to understand terms. question, i have a bathroom floor that is stable, i sistered the joists, added 1/2 douglas fir to help stabalize the floor (followed schluter guidelines for an overlay install) but the floor has a couple of bellies in it ranging from 1/8 to 3/16 over 4′. i am afraid floor leveler will just run out of the belly can i make the correction in my thinset as i lay the tile/ i am not an experienced tile man but a capable finish carpenter. thanks again for your service.
Hey Mike,
Yes, that variation should be no problem at all with thinset. I would try to get as much of it flat as you can as you lay the ditra, that should take care of most of it. Any small variations left over can be fixed as you set tile.
Hi Roger,
First time poster, long time lurker
New to tiling, but lots of remodeling, experience including drywall work.
Planning to install 12″ porcelain tile in 5′ x 20′ area. On Ditra over 5/8″ T&G, 16″ O.C., 2×6 with 5′ span between beam and wall.
Problem is floor mostly flat except for some ~1/8 – 3/16″ valleys. Since laundry room, I’m apprehensive about succeeding at doing the residual flattening while installing the Ditra since it seems it’s all about having the right amount of thinset down to accommodate the floor variation. Doesn’t using a wider notch trowel with this amount of floor variation still leave fleece over the dips under covered? When flattening, extra thinset outside dips has to go somewhere if have full coverage (ridges all flattened). I suppose if I flatten Ditra (with large wood float, 2×6, ??) toward open edge, the excess will ooze out and I can scrape and return that to bucket. Planning on doing 5′ ditra strips across width to do this.
OR
Could first screed/Float thinset or Ardex feather finish across low spots, allow to dry and then proceed assuming flat.
So what do you think about this common dilemma for us novices?
BTW which is easier to patch with, modified thinset or the Ardex?
Sorry about the treatise, but wanted to provide enough background.
Thanks so much for your help and incredible resource for us all. I liked your tips book too!
Hey lurker, er… Keith,
It would be easier to float it out first. Using the thinset as you install the ditra takes practice and attention to the proper amount of thinset without overdoing it. It’s just a matter of practice. It would be much easier with the ardex, it’s good stuff. The main reason I don’t do it that way is mostly due to time restraints. (Plus, I’m impatient as hell…)
OK. I’ll give the Ardex a shot. For my edification, is my understanding of the trowel size – ridge – thinset business about right?
Thanks much Roger!
Now back to my regularly scheduled Tequila survey…
Yes, that’s correct.
You study the tequila, I’ll handle the vodka…
So in all the excitement and confusion, we want to go with 18″ sq 3/8 thick, rectified, porcelain tiles. Is 1/4 x 3/8 trowel still appropriate? Or would you change that to what?
It appears Laticrete (spectralock at Lowes?) epoxy grout is the “saggy” version where pro premium is groovier for “power users” on walls such as yourself.
Which does a worm like myself want for my glazed, but fairly heavily textured floor tiles (with a slate like texture)? Will a grout release be necessary or what do you recommend for getting the epoxy grout out of the texture?
Thanks so much for your help!
The grout release will help tremendously. Other than that just taking your time and paying close attention to the cleaning works fine as well.
Finally some awesome advice! Now I can start tiling…
Re How to Install Perfectly flat tiles
Thanks for the blog it may just save my project. I was doing a small 5X 5 bathroom,my second project ever , first one was a back splash which was not bad.
I used the same orange barrier you used but got into trouble with the mortar ( too wet) and I has a bad fit and about 8 tiles in different areas that were not level. I eventually had to rent a machine to rip the tiles up and remove the motor but I am now stuck because I could not get all the mortar off .Can I level the floor with a wet mixture of the mortar and can I then add a new sheet of that orange membrane and try again? This screw up has really wrecked my confidence I was looking for a pro to take over but this blog made me want to try one more time. Also I am told I need to screw the flor down, correct?
Hi Clemkonan,
You should be able to mix up some thinset and install the membrane in one step, just flatten it out after you install it so it’s leveled out, then let it cure and install your tile. Not sure what you mean by screwing the floor down. If you have an area where you are replacing the actual substrate beneath the ditra then yes, it should be screwed down.