Comments on: How to Create a Shower Floor – Part 5 http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-5 Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!) Sat, 19 May 2012 20:47:52 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: Roger http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-5/comment-page-1#comment-9983 Roger Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:05:30 +0000 http://floorelf.com/?p=397#comment-9983 Hey Ed, You can (and should) start at the drain and work toward the walls. I normally dry-lay all my shower floor tile first, then pull it up and install it one section at a time. That way I know everything fits well. You can not backbutter mosaics. (Well, you can, but...) The jigsaw blade will work, I cut it on my wet saw, but that takes practice - a lot of it. :D I've also used a grinder. Whatever you're comfortable with. If you need more thickness at the drain or wherever just use a larger trowel or float out the floor with thinset to the height you need, let it cure, then install your tile. Hey Ed,

You can (and should) start at the drain and work toward the walls. I normally dry-lay all my shower floor tile first, then pull it up and install it one section at a time. That way I know everything fits well. You can not backbutter mosaics. (Well, you can, but…)

The jigsaw blade will work, I cut it on my wet saw, but that takes practice – a lot of it. :D I’ve also used a grinder. Whatever you’re comfortable with. If you need more thickness at the drain or wherever just use a larger trowel or float out the floor with thinset to the height you need, let it cure, then install your tile.

]]> By: Ed http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-5/comment-page-1#comment-9980 Ed Tue, 10 Apr 2012 20:46:51 +0000 http://floorelf.com/?p=397#comment-9980 Hi Roger, long time drinker, 2nd time caller. I used the cast iron drain body, not the plastic adjustable thread type. My drain lip is 1/2" above mud bed, tile is like 3/8". I'm ready to tile floor with 2" mosaic. Can I start from the drain and work towards wall (layout lines so I'm square when I hit the wall)? I'm afraid if I start at wall and press firmly into thinset, I will be a hair low by the time I get to drain. I back buttered all wall & floor tile but found that I cannot back butter mosaic sheets or I will be wearing thinset. Do you agree? (when I back butter, I get some extra thickness in the thinset) How do you cut 2" porclein around round drain. I have a diamond jig saw blade and strong fingers. Sound good? Thanks! Ed - Tustin, CA Hi Roger, long time drinker, 2nd time caller. I used the cast iron drain body, not the plastic adjustable thread type. My drain lip is 1/2″ above mud bed, tile is like 3/8″. I’m ready to tile floor with 2″ mosaic. Can I start from the drain and work towards wall (layout lines so I’m square when I hit the wall)? I’m afraid if I start at wall and press firmly into thinset, I will be a hair low by the time I get to drain.

I back buttered all wall & floor tile but found that I cannot back butter mosaic sheets or I will be wearing thinset. Do you agree? (when I back butter, I get some extra thickness in the thinset)

How do you cut 2″ porclein around round drain. I have a diamond jig saw blade and strong fingers. Sound good?
Thanks!
Ed – Tustin, CA

]]> By: Roger http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-5/comment-page-1#comment-8918 Roger Fri, 02 Mar 2012 23:38:45 +0000 http://floorelf.com/?p=397#comment-8918 Hey G, I would not touch the floor joists. Ever. Any room designated as a wet room from the get-go is built with a sunken substrate to accommodate the height of the mud bed. If it was not intended as a wet room then it will be the same level and you'll have a higher floor in the wet room when you're done. You aren't missing anything other than that. Any shower (unless ADA compliant, which are again built like that from the start) will have a curb or dam of some sort to block the water as well as compensate fort the higher mudbed. You can either have a step-up or rethink the wet room idea. You can rebuild the joist system but you're getting into structural issues with not only that room but the surrounding structure. That room is likely not the only one dependent upon the stability of those joists. (3/4" minimum thickness at the drain) Hey G,

I would not touch the floor joists. Ever. Any room designated as a wet room from the get-go is built with a sunken substrate to accommodate the height of the mud bed. If it was not intended as a wet room then it will be the same level and you’ll have a higher floor in the wet room when you’re done. You aren’t missing anything other than that. Any shower (unless ADA compliant, which are again built like that from the start) will have a curb or dam of some sort to block the water as well as compensate fort the higher mudbed.

You can either have a step-up or rethink the wet room idea. You can rebuild the joist system but you’re getting into structural issues with not only that room but the surrounding structure. That room is likely not the only one dependent upon the stability of those joists. (3/4″ minimum thickness at the drain)

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