Comments on: How to Create a Shower Floor – Part 2 http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-2 Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!) Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:37:24 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Roger http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-2/comment-page-1#comment-7697 Roger Thu, 26 Jan 2012 23:05:03 +0000 http://floorelf.com/?p=225#comment-7697 Lowering the area under the shower is also an option, although a much more detailed one - you're messing with structural framing and it must be done correctly. Your top slope is made from the same 5:1 sand / cement ratio you use for the preslope. The total thickness for both layers must total at least 1 1/4" at the drain, I normally make each 3/4". Lowering the area under the shower is also an option, although a much more detailed one – you’re messing with structural framing and it must be done correctly. Your top slope is made from the same 5:1 sand / cement ratio you use for the preslope. The total thickness for both layers must total at least 1 1/4″ at the drain, I normally make each 3/4″.

]]> By: Jeff http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-2/comment-page-1#comment-7685 Jeff Thu, 26 Jan 2012 15:43:54 +0000 http://floorelf.com/?p=225#comment-7685 Roger, Thanks for your reply. I have also considered lowering the shower area so that I can slope that area up to the level of the rest of the floor. Seems like it would save me a lot of unnecessary work sloping the entire bathroom floor. On a super tight material budget so I think I'd rather put in the extra work of a double mud deck rather than spend the money on Redgard or Kerdi, they seem kinda pricey if I was looking at the correct stuff. If I was to do a double mud deck. I would put down a mud pre-slope (like described in your blog), then the waterproof membrane and then what would I use for the top layer? Standard concrete? How thick should these layers be? Thanks again, Jeff  Roger,

Thanks for your reply. I have also considered lowering the shower area so that I can slope that area up to the level of the rest of the floor. Seems like it would save me a lot of unnecessary work sloping the entire bathroom floor.

On a super tight material budget so I think I’d rather put in the extra work of a double mud deck rather than spend the money on Redgard or Kerdi, they seem kinda pricey if I was looking at the correct stuff.

If I was to do a double mud deck. I would put down a mud pre-slope (like described in your blog), then the waterproof membrane and then what would I use for the top layer? Standard concrete? How thick should these layers be?

Thanks again,

Jeff 

]]> By: Roger http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-2/comment-page-1#comment-7674 Roger Thu, 26 Jan 2012 06:06:00 +0000 http://floorelf.com/?p=225#comment-7674 Hey Jeff, There are a couple of different ways to create what you are describing, the way you've described is one of them, no need for the durock, the ply will be enough. You can also create a 'speed bump' in the floor around the shower perimeter to contain the water, the membrane would run up and over this hump. An easier, and more effective, waterproofing method would be with a topical membrane such as redgard or kerdi. This eliminates the need for a double mud deck and makes it easier to waterproof. You can do either the speed bump method or the entire floor with a topical membrane. Hey Jeff,

There are a couple of different ways to create what you are describing, the way you’ve described is one of them, no need for the durock, the ply will be enough. You can also create a ‘speed bump’ in the floor around the shower perimeter to contain the water, the membrane would run up and over this hump. An easier, and more effective, waterproofing method would be with a topical membrane such as redgard or kerdi. This eliminates the need for a double mud deck and makes it easier to waterproof. You can do either the speed bump method or the entire floor with a topical membrane.

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