The size of grout lines for tile is something that comes up on almost every tile installation. The secret no professional will tell you is there is really no set or absolute proper size for your grout lines. There are some guidelines that need to be followed but the actual size is more of a personal choice than it is a set width.

Grout line guidelines

Since grout line widths are generally a personal preference I’ll let you know what mine are. I separate most tiles into three different categories:

  • Small format tile – Tiles up to and including 8 X 8 inches square.
  • Regular – 12 X 12 up to 16 X 16 inches square.
  • Large format tile – 18 X 18 inches and larger.

These are not technically official category names for tile sizes – it’s just what I call them. I’m weird like that.

Small format tile

A lot of smaller format tiles are self-spacing. That means that on either two or four sides of each tile there are what are called “lugs”. Lugged tile have small bumps or protrusions on the sides which are set directly against the tile next to it. Most of these tiles are made specifically for vertical applications, those are shower walls, backsplashes, etc., rather than floors.

The lugs on the tiles allow them to be stacked atop one another and keep the grout lines consistent throughout the installation. For tiles with lugs on only two sides of each tile you must make sure they are all stacked in the same direction, that the lugs are not butted against each other. Normally the lugs will create grout lines that are 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch.

For small format tiles that do not have lugs I will usually use 1/16″ spacers. Depending upon the texture and consistency of the tiles I may use 1/8″ spacers on occasion. For instance 8 inch slate tiles will usually look better with a slightly larger grout line.

If you prefer larger grout lines but have lugged tiles – don’t panic. You can still use spacers with the lugs. To ensure consistency you need to make sure that you either put the spacers between all the lugs or between the spaces the lugs are not. In other words do not put a spacer between the lugs on one tile and between spaces where there are not lugs on another. To figure out the size of your grout lines you also need to add the size of the lugs to the size of the spacer if you use the spacers between them.

Regular format

Regular format tiles are what I install on most of my jobs. More often than not I will use 1/16″ grout lines on vertical surfaces and 1/8″ lines on floors. I just think it looks better and as long as the tile is consistent enough, that’s what I’ll use. I will usually use the smallest grout line the tile will allow.

The best way to figure out how small you can go is to lay out nine tiles in a square and measure from corner to corner in both directions. If they are within 1/16 inch you can go that small with your grout lines. Some tiles such as slate and some quarry tiles will not be consistent enough to use a grout line that small. The largest grout line I will use is 3/16″ unless otherwise specified by the builder or customer.

Large format

Large format tiles are a bit tricky. These, more than either of the other two, are more dependent upon the tile itself. While most people will purchase larger format tiles specifically because they do not want a lot of grout lines, sometimes the tile will not allow it. Although this is rarely a problem, you need to be aware of it and make sure you check the tiles before you try to go with a very small grout line.

The easiest way to check larger format tiles is simply to measure corner to corner in each direction to ensure squareness. As long as they are the same in both directions, they’re square. Then measure several different tiles from different boxes. With a very good tile you should get exactly the same measurement every time. If that’s the case, you can use a 1/16″ grout line and not have any problems.

Large format tiles with 1/16″ or 1/32″ grout lines and a grout that matches the tile color closely looks great! If done correctly it will almost look like a single large slab of tile.

Which do you prefer?

As you can see there is really no absolute answer. If you like smaller grout lines, as long as the tile will allow it, use them. If you prefer larger, use larger. As a general rule do not go larger than 3/16″ although under certain circumstances such as some slates and quarry tiles, 1/4″ is acceptable.

If you choose to use smaller grout lines you must ensure the tile will allow it. If you don’t you may end up with lines that “jog”. That means the lines will not be perfectly straight and will jump over just a bit with every tile due to inconsistencies in tile sizes.

If you prefer larger grout lines you need to take into consideration the “grid effect”. If you do not use a grout that somewhat matches the tile color you may end up with an installation that looks more like a grid made of grout than tile with a grout accent. The smaller the tile, the more pronounced this effect may become.

No matter which you choose, you must make sure you use the correct type of grout. If your grout is chosen and installed correctly your good tile installation can turn into a great one. Make sure you consider your grout as much as you consider your tile. It can make or break your whole look.

{ 447 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

  • Erin

    Hi, Roger.
    I am tiling the whole house floor with supersatillo imitation porcelain mexican tile. I have decided on grey grout because that seems to be the traditional color grout for mexican tile in general. The problem is, we were going to go with 1/4″ grout lines, and now my father wants to go with 3/8″ instead because he says it would mean an easier layout (the tiles are exactly 11 1/2 by 11 1/2). I tried dry spacing, and it looks bad. Before I tell him that, I’d like to know what your thoughts are? Can a smaller spacing be used with the same easy layout? Thanks.
    -Erin

    • Roger

      Hi Erin,

      Yes it can, shift the layout over by 1/2 a tile. You didn’t say how large the rooms were or why he says the layout would be easier, but if it’s because of smaller pieces shifting it 1/2 tile will take care of that.

      You’re correct, the 3/8″ will look like hell. :D

      • Erin

        Well, I feel a little silly. We couldn’t figure out why everything was just a little off until my father realized we were dealing with metric measurements – 29 cm by 29 cm tile with a 0.5 cm spacing. If we do a layout based on 30 cm, it should be fine. Thanks for backing me up on the grout width – it forced us to rethink the layout, which led to an important discovery about what I thought was a standard American tile.

        Erin

  • Jaime

    Hi Roger. Thanks for the great site. Im currently in the middle of a shower tiling project for one of my dad’s rentals and I am using 10×12 brick style ceramic tiles with the Travertine look. I spent 3 hours after work tiling the back wall of the shower last week and when my dad saw it he was not pleased. He said that my spacing (1/8) was far too large for a shower and now wants me to rip down all the tiles and re-do it. From your site it seems that grout space is really a personal preference (within limits) and because they were larger tiles I made the spacing larger. He seems to think that is entirely incorrect and that they need to be RIGHT up against eachother. They do not have the built in spacers either. Is my 1/8 too large or do I need to rip them down? Trying to prove my dad wrong but if Im wrong, I guess I’ll be busy breaking and wasting tiles!

    • Jaime

      One more thing I forgot… He also bought this German product, an orange felt-like tape that he says Holmes on Holmes recommended and claims it is water proof and that I should put it over the hardibacker spaces and over all the screws in the hardibacker along with the adhesive (since its not self-adhesive) I told him I really dont think its necessary and he seems convinced it is imperative.. Is it? Ive never even heard of this product before…

      • Roger

        Hi Jaime,

        Grout line size is a personal choice. With some of those 8×10’s they do have the self-spacers on them, but they are all the way along the edges. Do they have a thinner portion that is less than 1/16″ going all the way around the perimeter of the tile. It sits back from the face of the tile about 1/16″. If it has those then they are self-spacing tiles. They can still, however, be used with spacers.

        What you have is kerdi-band (I believe). It is used to waterproof kerdi installations, kerdi-board and ditra. It is used with thinset. If the shower walls have a moisture barrier between it and the studs – that is your waterproofing. If it does not your shower is not waterproofed – hardiebacker is not waterproof, it is water stable. Putting kerdi-band over the seams and screw penetrations WILL NOT make it waterproof, at all. There is either waterproofing behind your backer or over the face, not both. If there is neither then the shower is not waterproof anyway, kerdi-band will not make it so.

        • Jaime

          Thanks so much Roger for the quick response!

          The tiles do not have any self spacers on them. I was hoping to finish the second wall tonight after work instead of putting it off. Im also glad to know that I wont need the band either as I thought. Since this was kind of an odd shower installation to begin with (built into a bathroom that was built around the turn of the century and likely had a claw foot before this one). There was no water proofing at all. The only water proofing it has is a pan with a drain that was installed beneath the tub to catch an leaks or overflow so it would not damage the sub-floor. Prior to this the shower walls were some sort of fiber board with a plastic coating which had since worn out. We are going with tiles this time since they typically are more durable. The original walls, including the ceiling were made from a redwood wainscot and it would have been impossible to do any sort of water proofing without tearing out the entire tub… which unfortunately was not a time and money option this time around. Thanks for all the input… I truly appreciate it!!

  • Marius

    For the plank like tile would you use the same color grout or a darker color. Tile is a light grey.
    PS. GREAT website

    • Roger

      Hey Marius,

      I normally do grout that matches the tile closely, but grout color is a very subjective thing. Whatever you think looks best is the correct choice.

  • Camille

    I have 2 questions:
    1. I have small salt/pepper tiled shower and attached wall area around commode and vanity tiled as well. The grout color currently is close to tile color. I have purchased a pewter color to match bathroom fixtures. Yet, I read on one of your posts that it may look more like a grid since the grout line is 1/4″. I hate the light color grout and wanted to do something different, but I don’t want to foul up this project. Open for a professional suggestion.

    2. I also read about your silicone vs acrylic sanded caulk. I have purchased a siliconized acrylic caulk. Is this OK or do I need silicone caulk and does it come in matching colors to your grout?

    Thanks so much!!

    • Roger

      Hi Camille,

      1. That is a huge grout line. I would get some dark tape, maybe silver, and tape over the grout lines to see what darker grout lines will look like. If you like it do it!

      2. The acrylic caulk will work fine, but the silicone is just better. Laticrete and tec both make silicones that match grout.

  • Betterhidehitatthistime

    If it wasn’t for the beer I am drinking…I installed mosaic tiles in my shower, a lot of it. My kerdi buildup was worst than I thought, and my walls definitely weren’t square. The end result is uneven mosaic and lippage at times.

    My mosaic was a tiny bit less than 1X1 on 12X12 tiles. The grout lines are a bit less than 1/16 which prohibited the use of my 1/16 spacers….

    My question is : How do I remove dry thin set from grout lines while not damaging the kerdi underneath it? I use a needle fine but it is a lot of work…

    Also, there seems to be a thin layer of thinset that doesn’t seem to leave even though I cleaned the tiles gazillions of times.

    Being a tiler is a lot of work. I read everything online for the last two years, I even attended schluter workshops…My shower will not leak, however I won’t have a professional installation which is what people will see.

    • Roger

      Get a grout saw (the little hand type with the carbide blade) and it will remove the thinset, just pay attention to how deep you’re going with it. Is the layer of thinset on top of the tile? If so, and your mosaics are ceramic or porcelain, use a drywall sanding sponge and a microfiber towel to remove it.

      • Betterhidehitatthistime

        Is there a grout saw smaller than 1/16? Otherwise it won’t fit…

        • Roger

          No. You need to use a utility knife (AND WEAR GLASSES! Broken blade bits fly!). Too late now for you, but mosaics that small need to be either set with the one-step method (grout and thinset in one) or the grout lines need to be wiped free of thinset as you’re installing them.

  • Heather

    Hi Roger,
    We just had our kitchen tiled in a 12×12 porcelain tile, running bond pattern. We were originally going to do 3/16 grout width but at the last minute changed to 1/4. We have a french country kitchen and were told it would look better. The recommended contractor used running bond spacers but the lines are not even. One tile alone has 1/4″ at the top and tappers to 1/8″. I asked him about this and he said it’s just the way the tiles are made? I’m having a difficult time believing this as these tiles have straight lines. All in all, the floor looks nice and maybe I’m the only one who notices these things. My biggest concern is that the tile is higher than the grout. The contrator said the grout I chose (Power grout — no sealing) kept sinking and wouldn’t come to the top of the tile?? Though I really don’t mind the look, I’m concerned the tiles will be more prone to chip. Our kitchen is super high traffic with three kids and many pets. All I can imagine is a long term headache of repairing broken tiles. I hope you tell me otherwise.
    Also, what’s the best way to clean these tiles? I have gone over them with water but they still seem hazy. Thanks Roger. I appreciate your input!

    • Roger

      Hi Heather,

      1/4″ grout lines are huge! To check whether or not it actually is the tile that is not square (doubtful) measure corner to corner and see if it measures the same from the other corner to corner measurement. If they are the same then the tiles are consistent. Nearly any grout can ‘slump’ (sink) but experienced installers know that and know how to compensate for that. It may have been the first time he used that particular grout. Regardless, the grout should be fluxh with the top of the tile. The durability of the tile, however, is dependent on the particular tile and not the grout. Try a 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar to remove the haze.

  • Jay

    Hi Roger,

    Thanks for the great website, you have given me all the best information, and i feel very confident about my upcoming tile job. i have one last question, i am putting in 18×18 on hardieboard, and i think i am going to go with your recommendation of 3/16″ grout (Laticrete epoxy) but i am curious as to the spacing against my molding, i will be putting in new 1/4 round shoe molding once the tile is done, so do i just make sure the 1/4 round will cover the space, and also do i need to grout against the wall, or just make sure the 1/4 round covers the space and have no grout.
    Thanks for any information

    • Roger

      Hi Jay,

      Just make sure to get it close enough so the 1/4 round covers it, but you want to leave open space there for expansion. Do not fill it with thinset or grout, it’ll defeat the purpose – just the 1/4 round.

  • tina

    Hi,
    I love your site. We just had a tile job done and the edges of the tiles were the “chipped look”. The tiles are all flush with each other but the “chips” are not…some go up and the neighbouring tile goes down leaving lots of shadowing. Is there a way I can top up the grout on the higher bits to fix this?
    thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Tina,

      Not really, that’s how it’s supposed to look. If you fill them flush you’ll have grout lines that go from 1/8″ to over 1/4″ or 3/8″, that’s gonna look worse.

  • Linda

    Roger, I wish I had your site when I did my tiles in my kitchen and entry way( a few years ago). I hate it. The grout is too wide for 12 X 12 and I suspect he didn’t even use spacers. The grout is so irregular on moderate priced ceramic tile. Want very much to redo the job with better knowledge. Thanks for all the info. Oh by the way, any hint as to how I can talk my hubby into it? You are now in my favorites.

    • Roger

      Hi Linda,

      As a guy I can tell you that there are two basic ways to bribe any man.

      One of them is food…

      :D

  • jenn

    Hi, I am looking to re-floor my kitchen, I have never done a DIY project before and am very nervous. We bought Resilient Vinyl Tiles that are grout-able. I love the larger grout line look but can’t decide if the 1/4 will look funny or if I should just stick with the 3/16? Any thoughts?

    • Roger

      Hi Jenn,

      Stick with the 3/16″. Yes, 1/4″ will look funny.

  • Wendy

    We are installing wood look tile floors. Should we do a 1/16″ grout line or a 1/8″ grout line?

    • Roger

      If they look like wood they’re planks. If they’re planks they aren’t completely flat (really, put two face-to-face and see if the ends touch or rock), if they aren’t completely flat you want a larger grout line. I would use (and do use) 1/8″.

  • Carol Pelosi

    I have several questions; 1. I have a 1 inch opening around my fireplace and i want to put 1 inch glass tiles around it. it is too small to trowel on mortar, can I just back butter the glass tile and adhere it to the durarock? 2. do you need a grout line between 12 inch tiles? 3. Can I use grout designed for 1/8 inch grout lines for 1/16 inch grout lines if i need to?

    • Roger

      Hi Carol,

      1. Yes, you can put the mortar on the back of the tile instead of on the backer. Is that what you meant?

      2. Yes, always.

      3. If you mean unsanded grout yes. If you meant sanded grout yes, but it takes a little more attention to deatail to ensure you get the grout joint packed.

      • Carol Pelosi

        Thank you for your quick answer. We decided on 1/8 grout lines because it measures out better. And we will just back butter the 1 inch glass tiles.

  • Malcolm

    Hi Roger,

    I’ve been obsessing for weeks how wide the grout lines should be in my master bathroom remodel. I prefer 1/16″ but my tile installer, who is experienced, recommends 1/8″. I will have an accent wall that will be tiled in 12″ x 24″ limestone, cut from the factory. On the floors, I will have 20″ x 20″ porcelain (matte finish) cut from 24″ x 24″ squares by the tile installer, laid over concrete. The accent wall tile never meets the floor tile, so I’m not concerned about mis-matched grout lines. But, I do want the thinnest lines possible. My installer recommends 1/8″ because he says the cuts won’t all be precise. Would it look strange to have 1/16″ grout lines on the limestone wall (those tiles are cut from the factory) and 1/8″ on the floor (all floor tile will be cut by the installer); or, should I go all with 1/8″ as my installer recommends? I don’t know if his recommendation is just a way to make his job easier.

    Finally, do I use sanded or unsounded grout?

    Thank you so much! Sorry for the long message. The tile job kicks off next Tuesday!

    Malcolm

    • Roger

      Hey Malcolm,

      I use 1/8″ grout lines on all my floors. The industry standard for tiles that large is actually larger than that, so your installer is correct. It is not to make his job easier. It will, but that’s likely not why he said it. Each tile is different and require different considerations, larger tile, larger grout line. Most manufacturers suggest a 3/16″ minimum, so he isn’t out of line at all.

      I use sanded with nearly everything. I also normally use 1/8″ on the floors and 1/16″ on the walls if the tile allows it, it doesn’t look funny at all.

      • JF

        If I may barge into your conversation, I thought I heard somewhere that some people make sure to use un-sanded for anything above 1/8”. What have been your observations for using sanded vs. non-sanded below 3/16”? Is it trickier to pack between the tiles for instance? Also, can you recommend some brands that last and that I could also use on a shower floor (not too keen on using epoxy lol)? Thanks!

        • Roger

          Hi JF,

          First, the technical specs state to use sanded grout in lines larger than 1/8″, not 3/16″. Unsanded should only be used in lines smaller than 1/8″. I, however, use sanded in everything 1/16″ and above. Any of the major brands of grout will work fine for your installation – except custom’s polyblend, don’t use that. You may also want to read through this: Using the correct type of grout.

  • Gino

    Hello Roger, Thanks for all the info here.
    I am set to lay 18×18 polished porcelain on a flat existing concrete floor.
    I removed the existing ceramic tile and thin set. Please comment on what i will be using. I have Versabond fortified thin set (2 set, fast setting), Onyx Crystal 18×18 polished porcelain floor tile. Polyblend non-sanded grout. I am still not sure if I should go with a 1/8″ grout line or 1/16″.
    I read different opinions on the 1/16″ grout line. If I was to use 1/16″ than why not just butt them without grout line. My worry is that some tiles may end up not flush on the top surface all around, where if using a 1/8″ grout line will hide some of that setteling and unevenness on top.
    Any comments?

    • Roger

      Hey Gino,

      I would go with the 1/8″ on the floor, especially over bare concrete. The versabond is just fine – get rid of the polyblend, it’s junk. Find mapei or laticrete grout if you can. 1/8″ grout line will compensate for tile that is not flat – not much, though.

  • sheryl wilcox

    I am wanting to use 18 x 18 inch tile I bought on clearence on my countertops. I want to put in diamond design. And I have no experience with tile.
    And hints or ideas you can give me?
    Also instead of diamond design do you have any other ideas?
    Thanks,
    Sheryl

    • Roger

      Hi Sheryl,

      The design aspects are purely a personal choice. An on-point installation (diagonally) is fairly common. Get some graph paper and draw your counters to scale, then cut out some squares to scale and play around with it. That will give you a good idea of what it will look like.

      • Roger

        And I hope that tile isn’t travertine! Please tell me it isn’t travertine.

        • sheryl wilcox

          No not Travertine.Lol I have heard that stains easely.
          My 18 x18 are porcelain. Good choice?
          If I were to go with 12×12 I liked a grey granite.

          • Roger

            Yup, porcelain is just fine. As is the granite.

  • Bev

    Hi Roger,

    I love wide grout lines on a floor… the tile I am using is 13×13 and a few 6.5×6.5 around the larger ones… what is the WIDEST grout line I can get by with… I just love the large lines… Let me know..I am doing it today lol :)

    • Roger

      1/4″ is about the largest workable size with most grouts.

  • janine

    I had a “tile” guy install my 12 x 12 floor tile and the design is uneven wavy edges but he installed them with a varying width of grout line that is up to 1/2 in. in some areas. Was that really necessary? And will the large grout lines be a problem? thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Janine,

      NO, it was not necessary. If you measure the tiles from corner to the corner along the same edge they should all be the same. You space those with the corners. While the edges vary, the corners should be consistent. (You’ll notice a very small area that is flat on each side of each corner). Larger grout lines really won’t cause any problems, they just look like shit. :D

  • Megan

    Yo Roger,

    I have 4.25″Daltile in semi gloss white from good ole’ Homebleepo. It’s non-rectified. I looks like the lugs matched up equal 16th of an inch. Can I get away with a 16th inch grout line or will my lines “jog”? I wanna get a laser level something awful. Would a laser level help me keep my “non-rectified” tile straight? Is this a good reason to invest in one of ’em? :)

    Thanx!
    Megan

    • Roger

      HI Megan,

      There’s no bad reason to buy a laser level. :D It will help. Rather than simply stacking the tile lugs atop one another just keep the edges of the tiles on the line. It helps tremendously.

      • Megan

        Thanks for the reply Roger! Your website is just about the coolest thing I’ve come across on the internet in a looong time. No crazy commercialized adds, in-depth content, personalized responses and a rad sense of humor. I feel like I should send you cookies and a card at Christmas! ;)

        I am currently fitting/cutting the backerboard and plan on using your PL glue method. My shower has some wild angles. Essentially it is a teeny tiny dormer popping out of the roof and I have to tile around a rafter in the shower. I’m trying to use a speed square to figure out angles– and it’s my first time tiling anything. I’m super confused but I just keep studying and checking and rechecking my work at each point in the process of the project.

        Needless to say, I might have more questions….

        Thank YOU!
        Megan

        • Roger

          I’ll be here when you have more questions. I do work for cookies. :D

  • Jason

    Roger,

    I LOVE your site. :rockon: It has helped my DIY bathroom project tremendously. So far I have done my bathroom floor with 13X13 and 1/4 grout lines and it came out PERFECT. I know you like the thin grout lines but I’m stuck on 1/4. I’ve already started my travertine 12X12 shower wall tiles with 1/4 grout lines. So far so good. The boarder of the entire shower will use travertine pencil border. My question is…how small of grout line do I use between the travertine tile and the border(I’m thinking small) and what size grout line do I use between each boarder?

    Respectfully,

    Jason from GA.

    • Roger

      Hey Jason,

      I would say 1/16″ with both. The pencil sticks out from the face of the tile so it won’t look weird to have a different grout line in there, and if you go much larger between each pencil piece there will be a dip between each, which looks like crap.

  • Kevin

    What do you think of TAVY spacers for wall and floor tile? Thank you.

    • Roger

      Hey Kevin,

      Don’t like them much. They work well enough but the old type wouldn’t allow you to see if the corners were lined up and the new ones with the open center (solving that problem) are made of a different material than the original and they are no longer nearly as durable. They work just fine, though, for someone that isn’t going to use them over and over.

  • Kristy

    Hello,

    We are attemping a backsplash under our cabinets in the kitchen over a laminate countertop that has a molded backsplash. We are using a 6X6 tile, do we leave a grout line under the first tile above the countertop of put it flush on the backsplash? If we do leave a space should we grout or use silicone? How much?

    Thanks,
    Kristy

    • Roger

      Hi Kristy,

      Leave about a 1/16″ gap between the counter (or molded backsplash) and silicone it.

  • Susan

    Roger, thanx for info. Appreciate your website. I’ve recommended it to friends and family. Susan

  • Susan

    Hi Roger, you helped us before with a slate backsplash. It turned out great. So thanx for the expert advice.
    New Question…We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in kitchen. I wanted diagonal pattern but was told that would cost another $400 for installation so that’s out. Trying to save money by using left over tiles in foyer and half bath. Sizes of bath 3′ x 7′ and foyer is 4 1/2′ x 5 1/2′. I’ve been told 18 x 18 is too big for the smaller spaces?? Do you think it would look that bad!!! I will follow the “Enlightened One” instructions to the letter…..susan :dance:

    • Roger

      Hi Susan,

      I don’t think it looks bad at all. I actually think larger tiles look better in smaller spaces. It seems counter-intuitive but that’s been my experience.

  • JF

    Hi Roger,

    Thanks for a great reference on how wide grout lines should be. But what about where the wall meets the floor in a shower (or in a bathroom with floors and walls that are tiled and you don’t want trim for that matter). Is it better to have that joining grout line (or silicone line…) at the start of the wall (after the floor) or where the floor starts after the wall for the cleanest look possible? Or maybe both have been chosen successfully by customers. Hope my question is clearer than grout :whistle: Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hey JF,

      It always looks better to have the transition on the vertical plane – wall tile over floor tile. You also do not need a full grout line there, 1/16″ – 1/8″ is plenty when siliconed.

  • Ed

    Roger,
    My tub is lower on the right side by approx. 3/8″. Should I start my tile on the left side (high side) and fill the right side (3/8″) with caulk or should I start at the right side and cut all tiles going towards the left side.
    One other question. When I hung my hardi backer board I never left a space were it meets the tub, do you recommend I cut a 1/4″ from around the tub.
    Thank you

    • Roger

      Hi Ed,

      Start on the right side and cut your tile to fit as you move across it.

      It would be better to have a small gap at the tub. If you could remove enough so that the backer is at least not touching the tub it’ll be fine.