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	<title>Comments on: Filling Grout Lines with More Grout</title>
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	<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout</link>
	<description>Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!)</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 02:23:29 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: melissa</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-857</link>
		<dc:creator>melissa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Jul 2010 07:44:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-857</guid>
		<description>my husband and have recently tiled our kitchen and laundry room.it is a 35 year old house that had kitchen carpet in both areas.we removed the carpet and old linolmn was underneath.we installed backerboard thinset extra like you suggested on this site,which i read just now to make sure.now we have something like a fault line running through our grout.we did remove the grout down to the thinset and cleaned out as much as we could.then regrouted of course it cracked again within 2 weeks of the repair.i do suspect a tile is moving but is there any sure way to know if it is just that tile or more and if so what is the best way to fix it.also i am not sure why it would move with backerboard under it could it be the floor its self</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>my husband and have recently tiled our kitchen and laundry room.it is a 35 year old house that had kitchen carpet in both areas.we removed the carpet and old linolmn was underneath.we installed backerboard thinset extra like you suggested on this site,which i read just now to make sure.now we have something like a fault line running through our grout.we did remove the grout down to the thinset and cleaned out as much as we could.then regrouted of course it cracked again within 2 weeks of the repair.i do suspect a tile is moving but is there any sure way to know if it is just that tile or more and if so what is the best way to fix it.also i am not sure why it would move with backerboard under it could it be the floor its self</p>
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		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-834</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jul 2010 01:30:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-834</guid>
		<description>Hey Wes,

What you&#039;ve described is definitely due to movement in your tile. Epoxy grout will not solve that problem. The deflection needs to be fixed and the tile needs full support without movement for the grout to last. Epoxy grout will be very solid along the plane of the tile floor (you wouldn&#039;t be able to pull them apart) but you will still have only 3/8&quot; or so - however thick the tile is - worth of support and all of that would be along the edge of the tile. It would lend no support to the underside of the tile.  Eventually the stress of the tile moving up and down will crack that grout away from the tile or worse, actually crack the tile.

It doesn&#039;t really matter what the installer &#039;wants&#039;, if you paid for a correct tile installation you apparently have not yet received that. Tell him to fix it correctly or you will have someone else do it and send him the bill. Sorry but it&#039;s contractors like that which give legitimate people who take care of their customers correctly a bad name. I have to first convince someone that I&#039;m an honest contractor before I even start talking about tile - because of crap like this. *Sorry for the rant* :D

It needs to be done correctly. If he continues to put &#039;band-aids&#039; on it he will need to continue that forever.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Wes,</p>
<p>What you&#8217;ve described is definitely due to movement in your tile. Epoxy grout will not solve that problem. The deflection needs to be fixed and the tile needs full support without movement for the grout to last. Epoxy grout will be very solid along the plane of the tile floor (you wouldn&#8217;t be able to pull them apart) but you will still have only 3/8&#8243; or so &#8211; however thick the tile is &#8211; worth of support and all of that would be along the edge of the tile. It would lend no support to the underside of the tile.  Eventually the stress of the tile moving up and down will crack that grout away from the tile or worse, actually crack the tile.</p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t really matter what the installer &#8216;wants&#8217;, if you paid for a correct tile installation you apparently have not yet received that. Tell him to fix it correctly or you will have someone else do it and send him the bill. Sorry but it&#8217;s contractors like that which give legitimate people who take care of their customers correctly a bad name. I have to first convince someone that I&#8217;m an honest contractor before I even start talking about tile &#8211; because of crap like this. *Sorry for the rant* <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif' alt=':D' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>It needs to be done correctly. If he continues to put &#8216;band-aids&#8217; on it he will need to continue that forever.</p>
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		<title>By: Wes</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-832</link>
		<dc:creator>Wes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Jul 2010 20:21:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-832</guid>
		<description>If there is a small amount of deflection (less than 1/16&quot;) in a small isolated area of the subfloor, would the use of an epoxy grout lessen the chance of the grout re-cracking?
This regular format tile has grout spacing of 3/16 to 1/4 &quot;.
The original grout was cracking.
The original grout was ground out and replaced.
The replacement grout is debonding from the tile edges and coming loose in large chunks in some areas.
The grout itself is only cracked across one intersection in the area with deflection.
Of course the installer does not want to remove the tile to fix the subfloor deflection due to it being slight and confined to one area.
Thanks in advance for your time and comments.

Wes</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If there is a small amount of deflection (less than 1/16&#8243;) in a small isolated area of the subfloor, would the use of an epoxy grout lessen the chance of the grout re-cracking?<br />
This regular format tile has grout spacing of 3/16 to 1/4 &#8220;.<br />
The original grout was cracking.<br />
The original grout was ground out and replaced.<br />
The replacement grout is debonding from the tile edges and coming loose in large chunks in some areas.<br />
The grout itself is only cracked across one intersection in the area with deflection.<br />
Of course the installer does not want to remove the tile to fix the subfloor deflection due to it being slight and confined to one area.<br />
Thanks in advance for your time and comments.</p>
<p>Wes</p>
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		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-622</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Apr 2010 00:40:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-622</guid>
		<description>Hallelujah!  :dance: 

I am so glad you decided to have someone QUALIFIED take a look at it and fix it.

And as a bonus you have the quote of the week!

&quot;Apparently any jackass can lay a floor, but only a tileman knows how to do a shower right.&quot;  :lol1:  

Absolutely correct! Glad to hear it worked out even if it was the hard way.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hallelujah!  <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_banana.gif' alt=':dance:' class='wp-smiley' />  </p>
<p>I am so glad you decided to have someone QUALIFIED take a look at it and fix it.</p>
<p>And as a bonus you have the quote of the week!</p>
<p>&#8220;Apparently any jackass can lay a floor, but only a tileman knows how to do a shower right.&#8221;  <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_lol1.gif' alt=':lol1:' class='wp-smiley' />   </p>
<p>Absolutely correct! Glad to hear it worked out even if it was the hard way.</p>
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		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-621</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Apr 2010 00:06:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-621</guid>
		<description>Hey Tami,

You can just scrape out a little and fill it back up if you&#039;d like. It shouldn&#039;t be a problem at all with a spot that small. I&#039;m actually metric literate so you&#039;re okay. :D

Oops, missed part of the question. You may as well get the grout off of the silicone before you seal it - it&#039;s gonna crack off eventually anyway. You may as well have it look the way you want rather than like it cracked off, eh?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Tami,</p>
<p>You can just scrape out a little and fill it back up if you&#8217;d like. It shouldn&#8217;t be a problem at all with a spot that small. I&#8217;m actually metric literate so you&#8217;re okay. <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif' alt=':D' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Oops, missed part of the question. You may as well get the grout off of the silicone before you seal it &#8211; it&#8217;s gonna crack off eventually anyway. You may as well have it look the way you want rather than like it cracked off, eh?</p>
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		<title>By: Grace Venet</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-620</link>
		<dc:creator>Grace Venet</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:48:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-620</guid>
		<description>Hi, Just an update on my failing shower. I had it redone with an experienced professional. Apparently any jackass can lay a floor, but  only a tileman knows how  to do  a shower right.
Many mistakes were made in the first install too numerous to mention, but mainly: no floor pan, threshold not covered in rubber mat, no drip edges, incorrect floor pitch, faulty electrical and plumbing.  
My best advice:  Get an experienced tile guy for a shower, or anything to do with water. 
Thanks for the advice, and I&#039;m very glad that I had it redone right away to minimize damage.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, Just an update on my failing shower. I had it redone with an experienced professional. Apparently any jackass can lay a floor, but  only a tileman knows how  to do  a shower right.<br />
Many mistakes were made in the first install too numerous to mention, but mainly: no floor pan, threshold not covered in rubber mat, no drip edges, incorrect floor pitch, faulty electrical and plumbing.<br />
My best advice:  Get an experienced tile guy for a shower, or anything to do with water.<br />
Thanks for the advice, and I&#8217;m very glad that I had it redone right away to minimize damage.</p>
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		<title>By: Tami d'Hamilton</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-619</link>
		<dc:creator>Tami d'Hamilton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:53:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-619</guid>
		<description>Dear Roger,
I did a little first time DIY tumbled marble tiling and am really pleased with my results (rub fingers on chest  :shades: ) but I noticed one small void (less than two centimeters long and a millimeter wide at the most - sorry don&#039;t know the &#039;inches&#039; measurements  :-&#124; ) where I didn&#039;t fill it with enough grout.  Before I put on the tile grout sealer should I scrape all the grout out and regrout or could I simply scratch it open a little wider, just enough to give the new grout some purchase and regrout?  I also got some grout on top of silicone (I siliconed the changes in plain first then grouted), will it just crack and fall off over time or should I scrape it off now?

Thank you in advance for all your assistance.

Tami</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dear Roger,<br />
I did a little first time DIY tumbled marble tiling and am really pleased with my results (rub fingers on chest  <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_shades.gif' alt=':shades:' class='wp-smiley' />  ) but I noticed one small void (less than two centimeters long and a millimeter wide at the most &#8211; sorry don&#8217;t know the &#8216;inches&#8217; measurements  <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_neutral.gif' alt=':-|' class='wp-smiley' />  ) where I didn&#8217;t fill it with enough grout.  Before I put on the tile grout sealer should I scrape all the grout out and regrout or could I simply scratch it open a little wider, just enough to give the new grout some purchase and regrout?  I also got some grout on top of silicone (I siliconed the changes in plain first then grouted), will it just crack and fall off over time or should I scrape it off now?</p>
<p>Thank you in advance for all your assistance.</p>
<p>Tami</p>
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		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-464</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 23:56:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-464</guid>
		<description>Hey Al, Glad to hear it worked out! Sometimes the sealer will work and sometimes it doesn&#039;t, like I said it depends on the chemical makeup of the grout and the sealer. Good to hear you got the finish you were looking for.

I&#039;ve thought about google adwords but the problem is I have absolutely no control over what products are advertised on my site. I don&#039;t want ads for crap products and have people somehow think I&#039;m endorsing them. And there are a lot of crap products out. :whistle: 
I am going to open up a little online store here when I get everything together. People will be able to order the stuff from me that I recommend here - you know, stuff like a rubbing stone. Seems that for some reason it is not as available as I thought - I may as well make it so.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Al, Glad to hear it worked out! Sometimes the sealer will work and sometimes it doesn&#8217;t, like I said it depends on the chemical makeup of the grout and the sealer. Good to hear you got the finish you were looking for.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve thought about google adwords but the problem is I have absolutely no control over what products are advertised on my site. I don&#8217;t want ads for crap products and have people somehow think I&#8217;m endorsing them. And there are a lot of crap products out. <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_whistle.gif' alt=':whistle:' class='wp-smiley' /><br />
I am going to open up a little online store here when I get everything together. People will be able to order the stuff from me that I recommend here &#8211; you know, stuff like a rubbing stone. Seems that for some reason it is not as available as I thought &#8211; I may as well make it so.</p>
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		<title>By: Al</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-463</link>
		<dc:creator>Al</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 15:38:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-463</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the advice!  The bathroom is finished and looks sensational.

The sealant made the grout darker when wet but it was the same colour when dry.  No-one seemed to sell rubbing stones.  I read someone on a forum say he now uses diamond sandpaper instead.  I didn&#039;t get any of that either though, instead I just used a grout rake to make a deep v shaped groove in the grout, then I&#039;d angle it by resting on one edge to grind the grout off the other edge.  The tiles ended up looking scratched, but when wiped with a damp cloth I could see that the grout had been sufficiently removed.

I did not reseal the scratched tiles yet, because I wanted the new grout to have every opportunity to stick in what little cracks the old grout was still hiding in along the edges.  When regrouting, I tried to keep it as flush as possible with the tiles.  They, when it was finished, I resealed and the scratches in the slate &#039;disappeared&#039; once darkened the same colour as the rest of the slate.  Not one piece of white showing, success!  Thanks :)

P.s. why not put a little bar of google adverts at the top or bottom of your site?  That should give you some extra revenue to help reward your efforts, without ruining the look of your wonderful site.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the advice!  The bathroom is finished and looks sensational.</p>
<p>The sealant made the grout darker when wet but it was the same colour when dry.  No-one seemed to sell rubbing stones.  I read someone on a forum say he now uses diamond sandpaper instead.  I didn&#8217;t get any of that either though, instead I just used a grout rake to make a deep v shaped groove in the grout, then I&#8217;d angle it by resting on one edge to grind the grout off the other edge.  The tiles ended up looking scratched, but when wiped with a damp cloth I could see that the grout had been sufficiently removed.</p>
<p>I did not reseal the scratched tiles yet, because I wanted the new grout to have every opportunity to stick in what little cracks the old grout was still hiding in along the edges.  When regrouting, I tried to keep it as flush as possible with the tiles.  They, when it was finished, I resealed and the scratches in the slate &#8216;disappeared&#8217; once darkened the same colour as the rest of the slate.  Not one piece of white showing, success!  Thanks <img src='http://floorelf.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>P.s. why not put a little bar of google adverts at the top or bottom of your site?  That should give you some extra revenue to help reward your efforts, without ruining the look of your wonderful site.</p>
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		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://floorelf.com/filling-grout-lines-with-more-grout/comment-page-1#comment-451</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Mar 2010 15:56:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://floorelf.com/?p=129#comment-451</guid>
		<description>Hi Grace,

I apologize, I apparently am not making it very clear. The silicone in the corners IS NOT GOING TO STOP YOUR SHOWER FROM LEAKING. Your shower is leaking because the waterproofing membrane is compromised in some fashion. Grout should never be placed over silicone - it will not adhere and will crack and crumble to pieces. The black, tarp like paper to which you refer was (more than likely) used as a moisture barrier behind your backerboard. That is acceptable installation procedure for shower walls.

My concern here is that you have mentioned things such as &#039;checking the plumbing and removing adjacent floor tiles&#039; &#039;regrouting where needed&#039;, &#039;grout keeps cracking out&#039;, &#039;grout remains wet 2 days after shower&#039; and, of course, the biggest &#039;water leaking into downstairs (from this shower)&#039;.  You have yet to acknowledge that the source of your leak is due to (short of a plumbing leak) a compromised liner. It sounds to me like you and your contractor seem to think that if he gets enough grout and silicone in all the right places that this will solve the problem. IT WILL NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM.

The fact that your other shower doesn&#039;t have silicone in the corners, just grout, and doesn&#039;t leak has absolutely nothing to do with why it does not leak. It does not leak because it does not have a compromised liner in the base beneath the tile. When properly built you can take a shower in it without grout, silicone, caulk, anything, and it will be waterproof. I build showers with grout in the changes of plane - they do not leak. What substance is in the corners has nothing to do with how waterproof your shower is.

I&#039;m not doing this to admonish your contractor, shit happens. It may not be his fault. I don&#039;t know. I don&#039;t care. The fact remains that, unless your plumbing has a leak, your shower is leaking because your waterproofing membrane in your shower floor is compromised. Everything you&#039;ve described to me points right to it (cracking grout, wet grout, LEAK). Tearing out adjacent floor tiles, checking the plumbing, replacing grout at the plane changes with silicone, all these are fine. But short of the aforementioned plumbing leak, they do not change the fact, nor will they, that your shower floor is leaking.

I apologize for being an ass but there does not seem to be concern to an extent that warrants properly solving the problem. I&#039;m saying there needs to be. If there is not this problem will compound into something much larger. The solutions that are being suggested are akin to cutting your arm off with a chainsaw and placing a band-aid over the wound. It&#039;s not going to hold - knowwhatimean? The solutions being suggested are not going to solve the problem - period. You have water leaking downstairs, would you place a garden hose in your window and turn it on very low for 10 minutes twice a day?

I really don&#039;t know how else I can say it. Your shower waterproofing membrane is somehow compromised - leaking. Short of diagnosing exactly how and fixing &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; problem everything you do is for naught. The rubber waterproofing membrane below your mud deck in your shower floor needs to be repaired or replaced. I don&#039;t know how else I can explain that. Sorry if I sound like an ass. If it saves thousands of dollars worth of damage to your house - I&#039;ll be an ass.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Grace,</p>
<p>I apologize, I apparently am not making it very clear. The silicone in the corners IS NOT GOING TO STOP YOUR SHOWER FROM LEAKING. Your shower is leaking because the waterproofing membrane is compromised in some fashion. Grout should never be placed over silicone &#8211; it will not adhere and will crack and crumble to pieces. The black, tarp like paper to which you refer was (more than likely) used as a moisture barrier behind your backerboard. That is acceptable installation procedure for shower walls.</p>
<p>My concern here is that you have mentioned things such as &#8216;checking the plumbing and removing adjacent floor tiles&#8217; &#8216;regrouting where needed&#8217;, &#8216;grout keeps cracking out&#8217;, &#8216;grout remains wet 2 days after shower&#8217; and, of course, the biggest &#8216;water leaking into downstairs (from this shower)&#8217;.  You have yet to acknowledge that the source of your leak is due to (short of a plumbing leak) a compromised liner. It sounds to me like you and your contractor seem to think that if he gets enough grout and silicone in all the right places that this will solve the problem. IT WILL NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM.</p>
<p>The fact that your other shower doesn&#8217;t have silicone in the corners, just grout, and doesn&#8217;t leak has absolutely nothing to do with why it does not leak. It does not leak because it does not have a compromised liner in the base beneath the tile. When properly built you can take a shower in it without grout, silicone, caulk, anything, and it will be waterproof. I build showers with grout in the changes of plane &#8211; they do not leak. What substance is in the corners has nothing to do with how waterproof your shower is.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m not doing this to admonish your contractor, shit happens. It may not be his fault. I don&#8217;t know. I don&#8217;t care. The fact remains that, unless your plumbing has a leak, your shower is leaking because your waterproofing membrane in your shower floor is compromised. Everything you&#8217;ve described to me points right to it (cracking grout, wet grout, LEAK). Tearing out adjacent floor tiles, checking the plumbing, replacing grout at the plane changes with silicone, all these are fine. But short of the aforementioned plumbing leak, they do not change the fact, nor will they, that your shower floor is leaking.</p>
<p>I apologize for being an ass but there does not seem to be concern to an extent that warrants properly solving the problem. I&#8217;m saying there needs to be. If there is not this problem will compound into something much larger. The solutions that are being suggested are akin to cutting your arm off with a chainsaw and placing a band-aid over the wound. It&#8217;s not going to hold &#8211; knowwhatimean? The solutions being suggested are not going to solve the problem &#8211; period. You have water leaking downstairs, would you place a garden hose in your window and turn it on very low for 10 minutes twice a day?</p>
<p>I really don&#8217;t know how else I can say it. Your shower waterproofing membrane is somehow compromised &#8211; leaking. Short of diagnosing exactly how and fixing <em>that</em> problem everything you do is for naught. The rubber waterproofing membrane below your mud deck in your shower floor needs to be repaired or replaced. I don&#8217;t know how else I can explain that. Sorry if I sound like an ass. If it saves thousands of dollars worth of damage to your house &#8211; I&#8217;ll be an ass.</p>
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