When there is a significant amount of movement on the substrate of a tiled floor or wall it may lead to grout cracking. When this happens it will leave what looks like a crack in the grout where it has come away from the tile. Unless your grout was installed very recently this is always due to movement in the tile. If your grout is new it may be caused by incorrectly mixed grout. With grout that has been doing this for a while it may lead to whole chunks of grout coming loose and leaving large voids in your grout lines.

While it may be tempting to simply mix up some more grout and fill these voids you need to know that it will not last. If you do this it will fill the grout lines just like new but over time will lead to the same problem. Grout over grout is not a permanent solution.

Why it won’t last

The first reason is that when you go over the top of grout that is already cured with new grout, there is no adhesion to the old grout. It will instead simply create a layer of grout on top of the old grout. These layers have no way of  sticking to each other. When you grout tile the grout actually sticks to the sides of the tile rather than whatever substrate is beneath it. While it will stick to the substrate at the bottom of the grout lines to an extent, it is not a permanent bond. Attempting to grout over the top of old grout is simply stacking two seperate layers of grout. It will always remain two seperate layers.

The second reason is no matter how much of the old grout you may take out to install new, if you do not fix the actual reason the grout failed in the first place, eventually the same thing will happen again. As with any problem you may encounter with a tile installation, you must figure out the initial cause and fix it to prevent repeated problems. This is an involved process which I will cover in a different article. For now I’ll stick with the solution for the grout problem.

What to do

Rather than simply filling the grout line where the grout is missing, you must remove the old grout at least 2/3 the depth of the tile so the new grout has a feasible surface to grab onto. The easiest way to do this is with a grout saw. Ideally you would remove the old grout all the way to the substrate before regrouting it, but 2/3 will be sufficient if it is difficult to remove.

You need to remove any of the old grout that seems loose or has come loose from the sides of the tile. You also need to make sure the spot where the new grout butts against the old is a 90 degree angle, or close to it. In other words from the top of the grout line straight down. You do not want a slope. Eventually a slope must be feathered to a very thin edge. That will be the first place it will fail again, any very thin layer. A 90 degree angle prevents that.

It is also better to make the transition from old grout to new in the middle of a grout line rather than at one of the corners of the tile. The grout line at the corner of the tile has six different spots it can fail, the middle of a grout line has only one. It lessens the chance of failure.

After you remove the sufficient amount of the old grout just mix some new grout and fill the lines. You must make sure you force the new grout into the grout lines very well. You want to make certain there are no voids and the lines are full.

The above method will work to temporarily fix your cracking grout. As I pointed out above, you must find the initial reason for the grout failure before a permanent fix will last. It’s difficult to say how long this fix will work, it may be two weeks, it may last a year. That depends on the severity of the problem that caused it. It also depends on the application (wall or floor) and how much use it gets. A floor in your main entryway will not last as long as a shower that is never used.

You should also take into consideration the age of the grout. If you are repairing grout that has been installed for five years, the new grout, even if it is the same brand and color, will not likely match perfectly. The best solution, of course, would be to fix the cause of the cracking and regrout the entire floor. Depending on what you’re fixing and why this method may solve your problem.

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  • brian

    I recently regrouted the floor tiles with crocodile grout after removing the old grout. The new grout is flaking away so can you please suggest why

  • Michelle

    Hello,

    We recently (2 weeks) had our tile grout installed (sanded grout with additive to cure 24 hours). Our contractor did not complete the grout job, leaving some tiles unfinished with some incomplete grout lines inbetween a lot of the tile. Our contractor says there should not be a problem coming in and refilling gaps and unfinished grout work. Your blog contradicts his statement. Does he need to remove remnants of grout before continuing to finish the job?

    • Roger

      Hi Michelle,

      If there is at least 2/3 the depth of the tile so that the grout can bond to the sides of the tile then no, it won’t be a problem.

  • Wayne

    The installers just grouted three days ago and there are some grout lines deeper than others. Should this be addresses es and how?

    • Roger

      Hi Wayne,

      Yes, it should be discussed with your installer. All grout lines should be uniform.

  • Dave

    Roger,

    Our contractor left a rubber spacer in the grout line of our shower floor. It appears the grout has strongly adhered to it. It is in an area where water is frequently so my question is, will this turn into a future problem or should we just leave it alone. Its flush with the tiles and doesn’t look bad, just worried water might find it’s way past it.

    Thanks in advance.

    • Roger

      Hi Dave,

      Water will ALWAYS get behind your tile and grout – always. The grout has nothing to do with waterproofing. Provided your shower is properly waterproofed it’s not a problem, it’s completely normal. That said, leaving a spacer in is completely unacceptable. I would make him fix it.

  • Christine

    My home is new construction, in the kitchen the grout is much lower than the tile, you can’t get the dirt out without shop vaccuming each line. Can grout be added to make it flush with tile, it’s been down about 2 months?

    • Roger

      Hi Christine,

      The existing grout will need to be removed to at least 2/3 the depth of the tile before the new grout is installed.

  • sarah

    we had a tub and shower installed and tiled a month ago. the floor of the shower and the floor and walls of the tub are small hex tile and the walls of the shower and above the tub are subway tile. The ceiling over the enclosure is angled and a few small cracks appeared in the grout where the subway tile comes together at the angle. The installer came back to take a look and his fix was to go over the grout line with 100% silicone caulk. He them proceeded to go over all the grout lines that met on an angle. Including where the floor of the tub and shower meet the walls. We have started to remove caulk that has been put over the grout is this a bad idea?

    • Roger

      Hi Sarah,

      Any change of plane needs silicone, not grout, and not silicone over grout. The grout should be removed and replaced with silicone.

  • Molly

    I have a bathroom floor tile that did not get grouted high enough 5 years ago and it collects dirt in it, bad. I want to raise the grout to be more even with the tiles. Do I still need to use a grout saw to get a bonding surface or since there is tile exposed for it to bond to can I just grout over the top?

    • Roger

      Hi Molly,

      You need to remove the grout to at least 2/3 of the depth of the tile.

  • FX Williams

    Roger, my kitchen backsplash installer spread the mastic fully across the 9 foot wide by 18 inches high section of wall in one step before applying any tile to that section. He then proceeded to apply the tiles working from one and of the section to the other. By the time he got to the opposite end of the section, it was about two hours after the mastic had been applied. With seeing that only enough mastic should be applied at a time to accomodate eight tiles, and seeing that apparently mastic sets up quicker than thin-set, should I be concerned that the installer shouldn’t have applied so much mastic at one time? One 6X6 tile has fallen out from the far end before he has returned to grout, and the back of this tile hadn’t pressed into the mastic grooves. Thank you.

    • Roger

      Hi FX,

      Yes, you should be a bit concerned. See if you can pop tiles off with your finger. If it hadn’t pressed into the grooves then he isn’t getting complete coverage. Pop as many as you can off and show him the results.

  • Paul

    Hi Roger,

    Im doing a bathroom and show and some of my grout lines for the base tiles (back tiles with black grout) have gotten white specs to them because the wall tiles are white as is the grout o the walls. I have not yet sealed and of the grout. Can i add a thin layer of black grout to the existing grout on the floor tiles to hide the white specs, or am i hooped?

    thanks in advance for any feedback you can give me.

    • Roger

      Hey Paul,

      You can go over it with some thin black grout, it may not lay on the surface, but it should ‘dye’ the white specks black for you.

  • Julia

    Just installed new ceramic tile, and mopped the floor many times. Why my grout can be easily scratched out, it’s like powder. I do not know what type of grout the contractor used. Why like that?

    • Roger

      Hi Julia,

      I have no idea. I can’t help if I don’t know what specific product was used. It is normally indicative of incorrect mixing/using too much water when installing the grout.

  • Kevin

    When the builders built our house they tiled up to the baseboards. I just finished pulling up the baseboards and putting in some new baseboards. Now there is a small space between the new baseboards and tile. Can I just fill in the space with grout or does all the grout need to be removed and then reapplied? Also some spaces are bigger than others.

    • Roger

      Hi Kevin,

      All the grout needs to be removed and replaced with silicone. You need a perimeter joint for expansion.

  • Clare

    Hi Roger:
    I had my kitchen floor tiled earlier this year. Everything is fine with the tile and the grout except for the one strip of grout that butts up against the transition strip going into the dining area which is carpeted.
    The grout started to crumble in this one area several weeks after the installation. I had the installer come out and regrout that one strip and it lasted only slightly longer than the original grouting. He took out all the old grout before regrouting, so judging by your advice in the above posts, it would seem the job was done correctly.
    What would be the best course of action now?

    • Roger

      Hi Clare,

      It is likely that the transition strip is not fully supported and is moving when stepped on. You can have him either pull back the carpet and place thinset beneath the exposed bottom edge of the transition, or fill that gap with grout-matching silicone rather than grout. The former would be the permanent, and correct, solution. The latter will work.

      • Clare

        Many thanks for your reply Roger.
        I am planning on having the carpet removed and Bamboo flooring installed in the dining/living areas early next year. I would imagine the issue can be taken care of at that time. The other areas where the tile transitions to carpet (bathrooms/entryway) have not had the same problem.
        Again, thanks for the information.

        Clare

  • Craig

    Rodger

    I just laid a marble floor with 1/16″ grout joints. My wife had a friend help her grout as a favor to me since I was working out of town. They were a little aggressive with the clean-up and the depth changes from perfect to ‘way to deep’. It has been down for about 10 days, it has not been sealed, they used unsanded grout.
    What are my options?
    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Craig,

      Go back over it with more unsanded grout. (Yes, even after 15 days)

  • Carol CC

    Roger, We have 1 dachshund that often pees in 1 particular grout line in the entry hall that makes the entry stink. This line is a deep line & wider than any other lines. Anyway, I want to solve the problem. The tile/grout was put down 13 yrs ago & still looks good. I would like to put more grout in so that the dog’s pee won’t pool. Would you suggest somrthing that would help the new grout to adhere to the tiles? I will add a pic of the grout line if possible & appreciate any advice that you would offer. Thanks so much. :oops: :wink:

    • Roger

      Hi Carol,

      If you need that grout line higher then you need to remove the existing grout down to 2/3 the depth of the tile.

  • Tracy

    I had a new tiled floor laid in July a couple of chuks of grout have come out can I just fill them in with more grout?.thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Tracy,

      Yeah, you can, but it won’t solve the problem, it’ll happen again. Grout busting out is indicative of underlying movement.

  • Deborah

    I put sanded grout in a newly laid ceramic tile floor. That was Sat. this is Mon morning. I didn’t get the grout as full as it should have been. Can I add more grout on top of the new grout to fill it in a little more? Or do I need to take out the new grout and start over?

    • Roger

      Hi Deborah,

      The grout should be removed to at least 2/3 the depth of the tile.

  • Jacky byron

    I have venal tiled kitchen floor . Near the sink the tile has lost its grout,and collects dirt. Is there a filler I can use there?

    • Roger

      Hi Jacky,

      I believe armstrong manufactures the grout for venal tiles. You may want to give their 800 number a call, they can likely help out. I don’t know much about that product.

  • Linda T. Transou

    I have new porcelain tile but don’t like the dark grout. How can the dark grout be replaced with lighter grout?

  • Joanne Abrams

    Hi my bathroom floor tiles have been down for 7 years with no problems. I recently got a bathroom company to regrout the tiles the grout cracked and came out in some places after a few days they came back and redone the work but the grout cracked again. He now says we need to replace the floor as it is moving, will this be the case as it was fine until he replaced the grout? Or should I get him back to do the job again.
    Thanks
    Joanne

    • Roger

      Hi Joanne,

      The original grout may have actually bonded very well to the open porous sides of the tile, causing it to be a lot more stable than the replacement grout. If it continues to crack he is correct, there is movement in your tile. Replacing the installation and building a proper substrate for it is about the only solution for it. It is nothing he did incorrectly, it’s just the nature of installations. Sometimes it’s best to leave the original intact if you don’t know the specifics of that installation.

  • eric

    Have you heard of Giani for countertops. I have tiled countertops and would like to know if there is anything I can use to make grout lines or countertop smooth. Before i use the Giani product

    • Roger

      Hi Eric,

      The smoothness of tile countertops lies entirely in the installation portion. Once it’s installed and cured nothing more can really be done to make it better (unless it’s natural stone which can be refinished). I have not heard of Giani, but I just watched this video on it. Not really something I’d do, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. I’m sure there’s a hell of a lot bigger learning curve to it than what is shown in the video – so just be aware of that.

  • Teresa wisniewski

    Why is my new replaced grout, not drying, after 2 weeks, can run my nail over it and it comes out like sand :

    • Roger

      Hi Teresa,

      I don’t know. Probably because it was not mixed correctly. Did you do it, or did someone else do it? What type and brand of grout was used? How was it mixed? Did it slake? I need a LOT more information to even venture a guess for you.

  • John

    Hi, I just grouted my bathroom tiles last night and today I looked and in some spots, it seems to be lower than I’d like. Can I add more grout on top to fill those low spots or do I need to scrap out the grout and start again?

    • Roger

      Hi John,

      You should be able to fill it with more grout without a problem.

  • Bridget

    Hi! Found the old 1927 hexagon tile in my home. There was a vinyl floor over it then tile over that. The grout is filled with the brown tacky glue that held on the vinyl. Any suggestions for removing it? Also, to re-grout how much old grout should I remove? As you know, the tiles are very small and there’s a lot of grout. Thank you! ~Bridget

    • Roger

      Hi Bridget,

      You are in for a treat! Just kidding, that’s gonna suck. The only way to remove the glue is to scrape it out of there. The grout should be removed to 2/3 the depth of the tile for the new grout to bond properly.

  • Tammie

    Hello. I now know my tile was installed with no subfloor. There is one particular area that the grout is cracking. I realize the floor likely needs replaced, but looking for a temporary fix for now. Would adding sealant to the grout help it stick better? We have tried removing the remaining areas of grout and re applying, but it doesn’t seem to last.

    • Roger

      Hi Tammie,

      A temporary fix would be to remove the tile and use thinset to reinstall it. You need to eliminate the movement of the tile if you want your grout to stop cracking.

  • Kimberly

    Roger,
    My story is a nightmare that would take forever to write…..However, here is my long story short….. My tile “expert” had no clue what he was doing and my floor is an uneven mess! It has been almost two weeks now and my contractor (who I love inspite of this nightmare) wants to come back and just “go over it with more grout”, feeling this will solve the problem. After reading some of the above comments I have my concerns that this is just a quick fix and I will encounter problems down the road. Should I allow this? There is some question as to if the liquid sealing adhesive was added to the grout mixture or not (installer says it was). Would this make a difference in your answer to me?
    Thank you,
    Kimberly
    A single woman who is feeling taken advantage of these day.

    • Roger

      Hi Kimberly,

      If the tile is an uneven mess then no, grout will not fix it. If the grout is what is uneven then the existing grout needs to be removed first.

      • Kimberly

        Roger, Thank you so much for responding so quickly. One of my biggest concerns at this point is …..since the floor has been down for two weeks now and I am assuming the grout has cured. If they go over the top of it with more grout, will the new grout stick? Or, am I just going to be looking at another mess down the line. As I mentioned in my above post, there is a question as to if there was a liquid sealing adhesive added to the grout mixture, so I’m wondering if that would make a difference as to if the new grout will stick or not. Thank you again!!!!!
        Kimberly

        • Kimberly

          Additionally…….I’ve read that under no circumstances should you go over grout that is more that 2-3 days old with out taking the grout out because “grout does not stick to grout it” ….it is meant to stick to the sides of the tile. Is that correct?

          THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!

          Kimberly

          • Roger

            That is correct. Grout bonds to the sides of the tile, that’s why the old stuff needs to be removed first.