This is a question I get asked from time to time. The short answer is no, you should not. Although grout does not add to the stability of the tile installation (unless it is epoxy grout), you still need to grout it.

Why you need grout

A lot of natural stones, namely granites and marbles, are manufactured to be consistently sized. For the most part all the tiles are identical.  This makes a lot of people want to install them without grout lines. Although in some people’s opinion butting the tiles against one another looks better than having even the smallest grout lines, it is not a recommended installation procedure.

Even if all the tiles look like they are the same size I can nearly guarantee they are not. Unless they are “rectified” they will differ, even if only a tiny amount, from tile to tile. Attempting to butt the tiles will result in a “jog” of the lines between them. The larger the area, the more those lines will run off. By leaving even 1/32 of an inch grout line you will be able to compensate for the difference in tile widths.

You also need grout to ensure that nothing can get between your tiles. Look at it this way: would you rather have a very small grout line filled with grout or a very, very small grout line filled with spaghetti sauce? No matter how tightly you attempt to butt the tiles, there will still be the tiniest space between them. Not grouting them leaves open the possibility of all types of unruly things filling them. Then you have to clean them out risking the possibility of damaging one of the tiles.

The final reason I’ll throw out there is that no matter what substrate you are using there will always be movement. Always. Placing the tiles against each other will eventually damage them. If you continuously rub the edges of two tiles together one or both will eventually chip (and you need to get out of the house more, or at least find another hobby). The expansion and contraction of wood or concrete will do the same thing. Although you can minimize this using different underlayment materials, it will still move.

I hate grout, I really do. If it were up to me I would install most tile and all granite and marble with no grout lines at all. I can’t do it. Even though it will look better initially, eventually it will ruin the tile. The best thing to do is use the smallest grout line your particular tile will allow and get a grout that closely matches the tile. For most granite and marble tile I install I use either 1/32 or 1/16 inch grout lines. In most other tile I will use 1/16 or 1/8 inch lines. I try to use the smallest grout lines the tile will allow.

To figure out how small you can go, place nine tiles in a 3 X 3 foot square butted against each other. Measure corner to corner diagonally both ways and see how close they are. If they are within 1/16 inch that is the size grout line you can use safely.

Please resist the temptation to install your tile without grout. Grout sucks, believe me, I know. By choosing a matching grout, though, you’ll be happier in the end and your tile will last significantly longer.

Update: The photos below were sent in by a reader asking why his tiles were cracking. They are travertine tiles and the cracking is a direct result of having the tiles butted against each other with no grout lines. This is what can happen.

photo-1 photo-2 photo-3 photo-4
{ 549 comments… add one }

Leave a Comment

  • Dejan

    Hi Roger,
    Can you install marble or granite tiles over existing ceramic tiles in the basement?

    • Roger

      Hey Dejan,

      Yes, you can, but you need to ensure that the current installation is sound and you need to use a recommended membrane made for that application or a thinset specifically designated for that application. The products will specify this on any of the literature.

  • Bill

    Roger I need some advice. We are installing 3/4” x 24″ x 24″ granite tile over a gypcrete subfloor with ditra. Our contractor wants to install without a grout line. Question is what is the smallest grout line we can get away with with such a thick tile? Any additional advice would be great also.

    • Roger

      Hey Bill,

      The grout line is not determined by the thickness of the tile at all, it is dependent upon the variation of tile size. Take nine tiles and place them in a 3×3 square and measure from corner to corner both ways. That variation amount times three or 1/8″ – whichever is greater – will be the smallest acceptable grout line for your tile.

      • Bill

        Thanks Roger, as i was laying out the tiles i noticed that some of the edges have very small chips. almost to small to see unless you are really looking or run your thumb along the edge. Do we need to fix these or will they be hidden by the grout? Just looking over a quick few tiles i think there are to many to discard.

        • Roger

          It depends on how much it’s gonna but you. And by you – I mean your wife. :D

          Grout will hide a lot of things so it’s likely that most of it will be covered by grout.

  • Shane

    Have a few questions I am a installer my self what do you use for spacers to get 1/16 and 1/32 I like to use box straps cut to the length that is the easiest to work with and hard plastic wedges what do you use to cut white backed glass tile people at lowes keep telling home owners that its cut with a wet saw ive never had any luck with wet saw always chips white backing the best way I have found is to score and pop it but not always so easy and do you recommend seting rectified tile with no space at all they say rectified is sopposed to be exact same size but I have yet to see any tile that is the exact same size stone is cut much more precise

    • Roger

      Hey Shane,

      I have 1/16″ horseshoe spacers and I use cut up playing cards for 1/32. Flip the glass upside down and score the paper backing with the blade, then flip it back over and cut it all the way through. I usually only do that if my sigma won’t cut them – not a problem I run into a lot. That thing cuts almost everything I throw under it. I am of the belief that absolutely no tile should be set without grout. I hate grout – but I hate replacing tile more. Any substrate has movement, good products compensate for it but do not necessarily get rid of the movement. Rectified tiles are very close, but you’re right, they are rarely exact.

      • Shane

        Do you mean cut the back with a wetsaw and then turn,it over an cut the rest of th way I use a rubi it is a great tooldo you have trouble getting the playing cards back out im am setting rectified porclian that looks like hard wood was going to set with 1/16 joint home owner wants them butted completly together do you think that will be ok thanks for your help tile work is awesome I never stop learning new things about it

        • Roger

          Yup, that’s exactly what I mean. Cutting them upside down the first cut basically scores the paper then flip them over and cut through the glass. You can to the same thing with the snapper, gotta get it lined up exactly, though.

          If you are going to offset that porcelain you won’t be able to butt it together due to the cupping of the tile. (The center sits up higher than the edges) You’ll have very noticeable lippage if you do that. the packing straps will work better than the playing cards. They are a pain in the ass to remove.

          • Shane

            Thanks for you advice I did set them staggerd like real hard wood it laid super flat I was surprised like you say most retangled tiles are cupped andd it drives me crazy do you like aqua mix sealers and enhancers thats what I like to use do you know of a better product to use an how can I post some pics on here would love to show you some of my work do you like red guard waterproofing and crack supressent membrane very easy to work with but does it last I still use pan liners but like to put that on top of mud bed so no water ever penatraits it hope it will stop any mildew

  • Barbara

    Having Inset boxes installed in my shower/tub. I have picked out an onyx mosaic to be installed for the back walls of boxes (only). They are sold on mesh sheets – but with no space in between the stones (really no space). When I asked about grout, I was told none needed. Nervous to install in shower without grout???

    • Roger

      Hi Barbara,

      The only type of tile that absolutely does not require grout is stacked stone (very rough or uncut surface). And those should not be installed in a shower. If they are simply square or rectangular flat-faced tiles can they be cut apart and installed individually? That would likely be the best option.

  • Susan

    Roger, one more question, what kind of sealer would you recommend for a slate backsplash?
    Do you personally think a matte finish or a glossy finish works best? We are getting black granite installed next week? Thanks Susan

    • Roger

      I use Miracle Sealants 511 Impregnator Pro, it does not change the look of the stone. I’m a firm believer that if you want a shiny tile – buy a shiny tile. Why change the look of slate? :D

  • Susan

    From a novice who knows nothing. Talked my husband into using 2 X 2 slate tiles for backsplash. Should we apply sealer to front of tiles before we install? I know they are suppose to be very porous from doing research on internet. After installing and applying grout how long do you wait before sealing again? What kind of grout would you use?
    Also we are laying porcelain tiles 13” very uniform but micmic the slate look. I didn’t want HUGE grout lines but husband says because of layout issues he’ might have to do 1/2 ” grout lines. What size do you think looks best? We are also applying over linoleum attached to concrete foundation, is this OK? For grout would you use sand or non? Adhesive… what works best with linoleum? Hope this isn’t too many questions but you seem to be the man with the answers!!! Thanks for any help or advice you can give. Susan

    • Roger

      Hi Susan,

      It’s always helpful to seal first – it makes grouting much easier, specifically the cleaning aspect. The amount of time you wait depends on the particular sealer you use. I normally use Miracle Sealants 511 Impregnator Pro – I can seal immediately. You’ll want to use sanded grout with slate.

      I prefer 1/8″ grout lines – 3/16″ is the absolute largest I would go – 1/2″ is ridiculously huge. If there are layout issues shift the whole layout one way or the other by 1/2 or 1/4 tile – it will fix it. The linoleum needs to be removed – thinset will rarely last long-term over it. Sanded grout is always used on grout lines 1/8″ or larger. There are thinsets that can be used over linoleum but it is dependent on the particular linoleum – and it ain’t cheap. :D

      • Susan

        Roger,

        Thanks so much…I will definitely pass info on to husband.

  • Gloria

    Hi Roger,

    I haven’t gotten up the nerve to put in my marble tile around my bath tub yet. I am considering all the info you have given me personally and a lot of what you’ve written to others. I am still skeptic about installing the niches and shelves, i.e., getting the heavy marble to stay in place until the mortar dries, etc. I am thinking about just using a wire rack over the shower head on one end of the tub and drilling a hole in the marble (once it has been installed, inorder to make sure I get the hole exactly where I want it) and hang another wire rack at the other end of the tub – one for hubby and one for me.

    I admit I don’t like the idea of wire racks in what I hope will be a beautiful marble surround, but I have been losing sleep over this project. It’s good that this isn’t our only bath. Everything else is the bathroom is brand new and we haven’t been able to take a shower or bath in it yet.

    One more thing! What kind of caulk/sealant should I use where the top of the tub and the marble will meet that will not eventually absorb dirty bath water?

    Thanks, Gloria

    • Roger

      Hi Gloria,

      If you’re concerned about keeping the marble in place you can put one piece where it belongs and shim it up there with pieces of wood, tape, whatever. Eight hours later you can remove all that and place the next piece up – the first won’t go anywhere. Just do it in stages.

      100% silicone is always the best option for any areas of your shower.

  • James

    Hi Roger,
    I’m installing 18″ porcelain tiles in a simple rectangular pattern (2 rows X 6) at the entry of our walk-out basement. There is a seam where they poured the footers and then the basement slab that I’m concerned about. Approximately 1″ of tile will overlap the seam between the two pours which meets right at the doorway that runs for approximately 8 feet across. I’ve had two recommendations that I want to run by you. One is to use GE silicone caulking under the tile in the seam and for the remainder of the 1″ of tile that continues past the seam. The other suggestion, is to put duct tape over the seam and trowel mortar right over the seam. I also thought, that I might modify the silicone caulk idea and simply fill the seam with silicone and then mortar over the top after the silicone dried. Or could I fill in the seam with grout as a filler? Should I have a grout line or just butt the tiles right up against the threshold? I don’t know if any of this is a good idea! I am using ‘Marble and Granite Fortified Premium Mortar’ with a 1/2X1/2X1/2 trowel. Thank you for all your help! James

    • Roger

      Hey James,

      The problem with your scenario is that you are placing one piece of tile on what is essentially two different slabs. The two slabs will move differently and this causes stress on the one piece of tile – which will not move differently. It will move with the slab to which the largest portion of tile is adhered to.

      The silicone idea won’t work. While it will prevent the stresses the movement will cause it will not support the tile correctly on the small side. The duct tape will work, but it isn’t stable and won’t last long-term. Your best bet would be to use either a membrane such as ditra under the entire installation, which will separate all movement in both slabs from the tile. Or use an anti-fracture or crack-suppression membrane over the expansion joint. This will transfer the stress from the small side over to the larger portion. That is a horrible description, by the way, of what it does. :D Essentially the membrane beneath the small side will transfer the stress to the membrane first rather than the tile and allow it and the bond to remain intact.

  • Confused

    Can you tell me about the different types of grout? Sanded, unsanded, epoxy, etc…. I am installing marble tiles around my fireplace & the epoxy grout I bought does not have a temp range on the label. Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hi Confused,

      Sure, here you go: Using the correct type of grout Regular cementitious grout is not affected by heat. Epoxies will have a ‘melting point’ in their MSDS sheets which you can find on their website, but I’ve never seen one that comes close to being affected by heat from a fireplace. I’ve used Spectralock on surrounds and bases for wood burning stoves without problems.

  • Tina Thib

    We installed a decorative glass tile trim in our shower which already has ceramic tile and the grout we used for the new glass tile expanded, and was rubbery and looked terrible. We let it dry for about a week, so it should have been set. We have since scraped it all out (horrible job) and are ready to re-grout it. Any suggestions on type of grout we should use, or procedure we should follow for success the 2nd time around? My husband thinks it was just bad grout, but I am worried that this glass tile in a shower may need something special. I am the scraper, so don’t want to scrape anymore!!!!
    Thanks!
    Tina

    • Roger

      Hi Tina,

      What type of grout did you use? To be honest I have never heard of grout expanding, and I’ve been doing this for a while. :D The ‘rubbery’ aspect leads me to believe it was a premixed grout, no? If so, what brand and type?

      Most glass tile is just fine with a sanded or non-sanded cementitious grout. Normally a non-sanded would be your best bet as the sanded may scratch the glass. And I don’t blame you – scraping grout sucks! :D

      • tina thib

        Hi Roger- we used the premixed sandless grout that loews sells.

        • Roger

          Did you wait the required seven to ten days before exposing it to water? And is that grout urethane-based? It may be bad grout, incorrect installation method (not mixing constantly as you are applying) or not waiting long enough before water exposure.

          • tina thib

            Roger -I think we only waited about 3 days. The package said 24 hours, so we thought we were doing good to wait 3 days. Not sure about the urethane, should it contain that? Tina

            • Roger

              If it said to only wait 24 hours then it likely doesn’t contain urethane. It should say on the bucket. Only urethane-based grout is approved for wet areas such as showers. They’re the only ones I’ve ever seen last, anyway.

  • JerryK

    I have a small granite job I need to do. We just bought a house from the bank. Forces of Evil removed a lot of things from that house. Trying to remove a gas fireplace, they destroyed the
    granite surround. The surround was made of granite tiles glued directly to 1/2 inch sheetrock.
    I’m not sure, but it looks like there was no grout.

    Would it be a good idea to upgrade this installation to grout and maybe cementitious backer board?

    – JerryK

    • Roger

      Hey Jerry,

      It’s always best to have grout. It’s also always best to have cement backerboard around a fireplace and it is, in some areas, required. Since you need to redo it anyway you may as well go all the way.

  • Rob

    Hi Roger,
    I just read through the whole page of comments and replies by you, have to say you are one heck of a dedicated and helpful person.
    I decided on and bought today enough black granite 12″x12″ to do my countertop and backsplash from home depot. How could I resist when it worked out to $12.50 a linear foot compared to the $30 or $40 a linear foot they would charge if I ordered a laminate countertop from them?
    So I know I cant avoid the grout, and I read what you said about setting up the 3×3 tile thing to figure out the thickness of the grout line.
    My question to you is this.
    In your experience, what is the thinnest grout line I can do, and what type of grout should I go with?
    What I dislike about grout is how it makes for an uneven surface as it is recessed from the tile, and the difference in colour from the tile. I guess that is probably what everyone hates, I like stating the obvious though.
    Do I need to worry about sanded grout scratching my polished granite? Should I go unsanded?
    Is the epoxy stuff as big an expense when your only doing a countertop with it, and is it really so bad to work with that I should avoid it?
    This will be my first tile job, but I do consider myself rather good at following instructions to a T, and I’m reasonably handy.
    Sorry to ask so many questions, I’ll just sum it up…
    What is the best way for a first timer to have the thinnest grout line that will look as much like the black granite tile when I am done, and how level to that tile can I have the grout?

    • Roger

      Hey Rob,

      I have done a 1/32 (width of a playing card – I actually used a deck for spacers :D ) but it’s a pain and that was with perfectly sized marble. You would be fine with 1/16″ provided you take your time with it. You can get the grout as high as the bottom of the very slight bevel on the edge of the tile. For just a counter and backsplash with small grout lines you can get a ‘mini-unit’ of Spectralock and it should do all of it. It’s easy to work with and not difficult at all if you follow the directions exactly. Granite is not easily scratched at all and I’ve never had problems with sanded grout, although non-sanded would likely work better. If you do 1/16″ use either epoxy or non-sanded.

      • Rob

        Thanks for the reply Roger.
        I have tentatively decided to enlist the help of a friend. The reason for this is that he comes HIGHLY recommended. I’ve seen his work and it is always top notch.
        I swear I have read a hundred websites and their posts, seen what works and doesn’t, and also asked you advice already.
        One thing I haven’t been able to get much info on is the underlay.
        What I have seen prescribes using 3/4″ plywood, and backerboard, which I am assuiming is cement board.
        My friend seems reluctant to go that route, he says it is better to use the plywood, and then go with wire mesh and I think he said mortar.
        He seems to know what he is doing, but I am wondering what your thoughts are on this?
        I have a great deal in place with him. He says if I buy him a Milwuakee variable speed grinder, he will polish the edges of my tile, and do the install.
        I just don’t get why all the descriptions I read, and videos I watch never mention this wire mesh method.

        • Roger

          Hey Rob,

          There are two different ‘wire mesh’ methods – one is approved and one is useless junk. The one that is approved is a mud deck or ‘dry pack’. This is wire lath or mesh attached to the substrate and a layer of deck mud screeded over is at a minimum thickness of 3/4″. Tile is attached directly to this. The one that is useless is known as a ‘Jersey mud job’. This is just wire lath attached to the substrate and a layer of thinset and the tile is attached directly over that. They DO NOT last long-term

          If your contractor is speaking of the former – do it. It’s actually one of the best methods available. If he is speaking of the latter don’t let him screw up you house like that. And absolutely DO NOT accept the ‘I’ve been doing this for ___ years with no problems’ BS. If someone screwed up a large tile installation, it was past the required warranty period and it failed – would you call them back to fix it? There are problems – they just never hear about them. Guys like me fix them all the time.

          • Rob

            The one he wants to do is the approved one, I guess I will be taking him up on his offer, thanks again for your advice!

  • Rob

    Going for the dumbest question here – but can a shower be used before grout is applied? Not forever, obviously, but due to timing constraints I don’t know when I’ll be able to grout it. I used 4mil vapor,Durock then Versabond fortified mortar and ceramic tile.

    Thanks!

    • Roger

      Hey Rob,

      Yup, it can. Of course it’s not ideal, but it won’t hurt. Just make sure to give it a day or so to dry out before grouting.

  • Cindy Pearson

    HI Roger,
    I am putting in a backsplash and I purchased some decorative tiles to go between the standard ivory ceramic tile. The problem is the decorative tile is just a bit thinner than the other tile. I am applying to plywood so I purchased some of the new stick on paper to apply it but I don’t know what to do about the very slight difference in depth. Another thing I’ve thought about is the lasting power of the stick on and it’s ability to withstand extreme temps. I live in Alaska and will shut down the house in the winter so it will drop to -50 in the house. Would that destroy the sticking properties? Also, the standard tiles have built in spacers and the decorative tiles don’t. The built in spacers seem so tiny it seems like it should be thicker – is that common? Help!
    Thanks,
    Cindy

    • Roger

      Hi Cindy,

      Well, the first thing I would be concerned about is the fact that you are installing over plywood. Wood of any type is sensitive to temperature and moisture (humidity) and will expand and contract a considerable amount. That should be replaced with either regular drywall or cement backerboard. As far as the stick on stuff – I’ve seen it, never used it. I really don’t know one thing about the temperature properties of it. You should contact their 800 number and talk to their tech department – they should be able to answer that for you. The built-in spacers are called ‘nubs’ and yes – it’s completely normal. They are normally a bit less than 1/16″.

  • Angie

    Hello Roger,

    So I am trying to figure out a few things. I have a 6×2 countertop that I want to extend to about 8 feet, we are thinking to put down a sheet of plycem that is 8×4 but i dont plan on keeping the 4′ width.

    My issues: I have a choice between a glossy travertine 20×20 tiles and 24×24 black/grayish tile but I want it to look like its is one large piece instead of chopping up the tiles and having them look like “tiles”.

    Although I LOVE the lighter Travertine I’m thinking that the grout will show more than if I go with the darker tile and darker grout. What size height and width would you recommend i make the countertop? How much spacing would I put between these large tiles? Would it be best to use the 24×24 and keep the countertop at 2′ ??

    Thanks so much for your help. Angie (p.s. I am currently living abroad this is why my options are so limited …oh how I miss my Home Depots and Lows)

    • Roger

      Hey Angie,

      Standard countertops are 24″, nothing says you need to keep that size though. :D Another option you may think about is to put the 20″ tiles diagonally – that will allow you to keep the depth and still have the tile you want. You can use grout lines as small as 1/16″ normally and getting a grout that closely matches the tile will help them disappear. You’ll need a minimum of 1 1/2″ plywood beneath that cement board

      • Angie

        Thanks a million !!!

  • Pat Rambo

    My glass subway tile backsplash was installed the other day. Some tiles were butted up against each other, others have up to a 3/16th possibly more space between them. I think when they are finally grouted, this will look really bad. Also, I noticed 4 or 5 have small cracks and one has a pretty good one. We live in Texas and this drought is killing us. The company owner is coming over to check out the situation. What advice do you have for me?

    • Roger

      Hey Pat,

      The only advice I can really give you from here is what you already know – that installation is absolutely unacceptable. Cracked tiles are in no way acceptable and grout lines should be as consistent as the tile will allow – that is normally a variance of less than 1/16″, but it depends on the particular tile. Tell him you want it redone – period. If he starts to give you a hard time come on back here and I’ll give you all the applicable standard numbers for glass tile installation and where you can get the handbook – that stands up in any court.

  • herman ripps

    What about butting granite tiles up against each other, and filling with a really good clear silicon?

    • Roger

      Hi Herman,

      If you butt granite tiles they will still be rubbing against one another. And silicone it not made to be a permanent material, it is intended to be replaced periodically. Namely once the seal is compromised (and it will be eventually) it needs to be replaced. Once that happens in those tiny grout lines it becomes a breeding ground for mold and bacteria.

  • jessy

    Hi, I want to install wood dloors where I know have carpet – key thing is i have tile in the rest of the house. it is my formal living room and I DO NOT WANT those T wood things that go between tile and wood floors becasue this area is right when you come into my home and is in a diamond shape….. Can I grout between the wood and the tile making it look flush?

    • Roger

      Hi Jessy,

      You can grout it but the grout will eventually crack out due to movement of the wood. You can leave a 1/16″ gap between the two and fill it with color-matched silicone and it will be fine.

  • Colleen

    Hi,
    I am installing a ceramic backsplash. The tiles are 4″ x 18″ and look like stone finish, meaning the surface is not even when they are placed side by side. From what I have read, I will have to grout the tiles. Do I fill the grout only to the low spots on the tile? Any info you can give me is welcome.

    Thanks so much

    • Roger

      Hi Colleen,

      Do you have ‘split-faced’ stone? If so, it doesn’t get grouted, it is also not a good choice for a kitchen backsplash (you didn’t say what backsplash). If that isn’t what you have do you have a link to the particular product you’re working with?

      • Colleen

        Hi Roger,
        The tile is for a kitchen backsplash, it is a dry pressed ceramic. The product is by Vives Azulejos Y Gres, model Atalaya-C Negro. I have attached the link to the site, if you click on the picture, you can see what it looks like. If the link doesn’t work, I’ve also attached the specs I found on the site. http://www.vivesceramica.com/en/products/548.html?search=1&mark=markyellow&query=atalaya-c+negro&productos=1&submit=Search
        PORCELAIN TILES ATALAYA-C NEGRO – 8,1×41,5 cm.
        Technical Characteristics Reference standard
        Manufacture process Single-firing Dry pressed ceramic tile
        Thickness (mm.) 11 UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 2
        Length, width, thickness, side straightness, orthogonality, flatness. Conforms to the requisites applicable to each model as defined in standard UNE-EN 14411 for Group B Ia UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 2
        Water absorption E 35
        > 1300 UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 4
        Resistance to deep abrasion (Unglazed tiles) < 140mm3 UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 6
        Resistance to surface abrasion (Glazed tiles) UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 7
        Lineal thermic dilatation < 9*10-6 /º C UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 8
        Thermic impact resistance It stands the test UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 9
        Cracking resistance It stands the test UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 11
        Frost resistance It stands the test UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 12
        Slip resistance Class 1 UNE ENV 12633:2003

        Chemical resistance
        Domestic cleaning products Type GA / UA UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 13
        Swimming pool salt Type GA / UA
        Acids and bases (low concentration) Minimum Type GLB / ULB
        Stains resistance Minimum Type 4 UNE EN ISO 10545 Part 14

        Thanks so muc for the quick reply.

        Colleen

        • Roger

          Hey Colleen,

          That tile would need to be grouted with a grout bag. You place the grout in the grout bag and pipe it into the grout lines. After it sets up a bit you clean it up with a damp sponge. You can fill it only to the low spots or have varying grout lines depending on where the face of the tile ends up in each spot.

          • Colleen

            Thanks so much for your help. I’ll send pics when I finally get it done. :-)

  • Gwen Warren

    I have four individual tiles that when put together make a lion. I want to mount as a piece of art work – framed. However, traditional frames cover parts of the features of the tile. Any suggestions as to how to mount the tile without the frame actually touching it?

    • Roger

      Hi Gwen,

      I would attach the tile to a piece of 1/4 hardibacker leaving 2″, or whatever the size of the inside rabbet on the chosen frame material is, around the edges. This way the frame can overlap the hardi but you will still be able to see all of the art on the tiles. You can also install them on the hardi with double-sided tape rather than an adhesive, that way if you ever want to take it apart and use them somewhere else you won’t damage the tile – they’ll come off fairly easily.

  • Donna

    I am getting ready to lay a woodstone plank tile floor and all of the samples I have seen do not show any grout lines. Is this a tile that can be butted together or do I still need to do grout? It seems that doing grout would take away from the tile looking like a wooden floor.

    Thanks

    • Roger

      Hi Donna,

      I’m assuming the samples you’ve seen were either not actually installed or were installed in a showroom? If butted together the tile will not last. You need grout. Really. Find a grout that matches the base color of your wood plank and, if installed well, it will look like a wooden plank floor. You need grout if you expect your installation to last.

  • AJ

    Hi Roger, I’m planning on using split tile as a back splash in my kitchen. After reading the above posts, I am a little nervous to do so. My whole intention was to make it easy to install without having to use grout. I currently have a 3″ silestone back splash that matches the counter top which will remain in place. From above that I was planning on installing the split tile (so the split tile will not meet the counter top but the existing back splash). Should I reconsider using split tile or should I still go ahead with this? I’m really just concerned about the area around the sink in regards to water damage. I don’t see much water getting back there since we already have a solid 3″ back splash in place, but I don’t know if this matters. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    • Roger

      Hi AJ,

      Split-faced stone is manufactured to be installed without grout. An area like a backsplash, even around a sink, is considered a non-wet installation. You don’t need to worry about water damage with split-faced stone. What you do need to be worried about is the sanitization of said installation. Split-faced stone has, by nature, millions of little nooks and crannies, irregular surfaces and unfilled space between the individual stones. In a kitchen environment it is absolutely ideal for bacteria – small dark places to hide which cannot be easily cleaned.

      I absolutely refuse to install split-faced stone on kitchen backsplashes – for sanitary reasons, nothing else. I love the look of the stone, but it’s best left installed somewhere bacteria won’t be a health issue. You, of course, can do whatever you like. :D Water damage won’t be an issue – even around the sink.

      • AJ

        Thanks for the quick reply and the great info, Roger. I think we are going to go with a different style that doesn’t involve nooks and crannies!

  • Mike

    I got some 4×4 tumbled travertine, it’s not nominal tile. Do I butt these then use non sanded grout or should I leave 1/16th between the tile.

    • Roger

      Hey Mike,

      Ideally you should use 1/8″ lines but you can use 1/16″ grout lines and sanded grout. Sanded grout will fill the lines as well as any imperfections in the tile without shrinking.

  • Greer

    Sometimes I’ve found you can do too much research on an issue until you have too much information. I was on forum yesterday – just reading, not participating – and someone who called himself a professional installer said you absolutely must use grout with split face tile, or moisture would get behind it and deteriorate the wall. Danged if I could see HOW you could grout it, that’s why I thought it would be a tedious process.

    But, having seen your comments here, I think I’ll opt to go with what you say. It’s a moot point, though, given your comments on the appropriateness of split tile in a shower. I think I knew it wouldn’t be the best choice somewhere deep in my tile soul – guess I just needed to hear someone say it.

    Actually, by platform, I meant the surface the tile – any tile – would be attached to. I thought I saw somewhere above that should be sealed.

    Thanks for your time and the benefit of your expertise.

    Greer

    • Roger

      Hey Greer,

      In that case yes, it should be ‘sealed’. Any shower should be a completely waterproof box before a piece of tile is touched. If properly constructed it doesn’t matter one whit whether water gets behind your tile or not – it will anyway. A properly built shower is made for that.

      Tile and grout are not waterproof so even if you were to grout it water would still get behind it. Think about your driveway when it rains – it gets wet and soaks in moisture, this is why it gets darker. Then as it dries it lightens back up. Grout is a portland-based (cement) product – it does the same thing. Most natural stones work in the same manner. So your substrate will always get wet – always.

      If someone says you need to grout to make something waterproof they have no business installing tile – they should be mowing lawns for a living. :D I’m very glad you decided to do some research! I only wish everyone would.

  • Greer

    I really want to use split face tile in my shower, and I understand that it needs to be grouted. What’s the best way to grout split face tile (is it on mesh?) It almost looks like you’d have to use your fingers to work the grout in! AND will my contractor hate me if I ask him to do this?

    Also, you mention sealing the tile “platform.” What sort of sealer do you use?

    thanks in advance!

    • Roger

      Hey Greer,

      Yes, absolutely your contractor will hate you if you asked him to grout split-faced stone! I would. Because split-faced stone is not intended to be grouted. It is designed and manufactured to be installed without grout. It does need to be sealed, though! Any really good stone sealer will work just fine.

      Split-faced stone is the exception to the rule.

      With all that said – you really don’t want to use it in your shower. The extremely rough surface makes it very difficult to keep clean and leaves all sorts of nooks and crannies for nasty stuff like mold to hide. You can not take a scrub pad to it to get everything off of it – the rough surface will not allow it. If you really want to use it go ahead, but think about it first. Look at the surface of the stone – how will you scrub water stains and general shower gunk off of that stone? It’s nearly impossible. Are you planning on using it for the entire shower? If so you really should re-think that.

      I’m not certain what you mean by sealing the tile ‘platform’. That is not a normal word in my tile vocabulary so I’m unsure what you are referring to? Of course I may have used it one night in a drunken stupor – can you point me to where you are referring? :D